Creality Ender-5 Plus - Silent Mainboard Install Tutorial- TMC2208 - Special Build Series

hey guys what's up welcome to my channel my name is frank today is another installment in the uh ender five plus build series in collaboration with creality and today we are going to be installing a silent main board in the ender 5 plus this is going to be a little bit different because typically i would bring the ender five plus in here however it's a little hard to see but getting the under five plus through this little doorway with the glass case is a little difficult it is one big boy that opening is one small boy so we're gonna actually take it into the other print room and actually get this silent main board installed this is the uh creality just the standard silent main board and it's absolutely awesome i have two of these in my cr-10s's and we're gonna go ahead and throw this in so let's hop over to the other room and i'm gonna kind of explain and give you a little rundown on what the silent board is what it does and we'll be able to hear the difference once i'm done with the uh with the stock under five plus that i have and the new upgraded one so let's go take a look [Music] welcome to the print room it must look a mess i apologize um we're at a little bit of a low angle here so just deal with it um down here are my under five pluses we're gonna be pulling one of them out probably this one because that one i need to move the desk for again they are big heaping boys so if you guys have never seen or heard or messed with a um silent main board we're going to squad a little bit see hey we're good you guys can see me now um if you guys have never messed with a silent main board it makes the printer silent and i used to sleep on these a lot when i first got into 3d printing i keep slowly moving up i used to sleep on these a lot i got the stepper dampener motors these little polyurethane bushing mounts that actually go on the steppers and while they did make a difference on my cr-10s's and i noticed no quality difference that was another myth that's for another video they didn't affect anything so stop spreading rumors they worked great however the difference let's say that my printer was loud at a ten the uh the stepper dampeners took that down to a seven or an eight it was definitely noticeable it made an improvement when i put this silent main board in one of my cr-10s is it took it down to like a two i couldn't even tell that that printer was on unless my room was completely silent and i could just barely hear the fan running if you have any type of music fan some type of you know um ambient noise in your house because houses make noise you can't even tell if the printer is on now the ender 5 pluses are significantly louder than my stock cr-10s ever was so i'm really excited to see how much of a difference this makes and what's nice is i have two of them so i can upgrade one and we can compare notes so we're gonna go and pull this under five plus out we'll get it turned around however we need to and we're gonna dig in and i've never installed one on this so this is gonna be a little bit of a learning experience for me too however it can't be that much different than the cr-10s it's a main board there's only so much you can do turns out the md5 plus and the cr-10s actually share the exact same main board just depending on the firmware you get now we're not going to be flashing this firmware you guys will see you know th 3d and tiny machines firmware and all this upgraded firmware from the research i've done and if i am wrong please let me know in the comments in order to flash the main board on a touchscreen creality printer the under 5 plus is the cr10s you actually need to go and typically get a new whole touch screen because the the touchscreen systems on them aren't compatible with the upgraded aftermarket firmware more into that you can google and research that uh there's a lot of stuff on reddit about that which is really in for more informative and stuff on th 3d and tiny machines about that so we're going to be using the stock firmware that's on the ender 5 pluses silent main board because it works i've had no problems with the stock reality firmware so let's jump right in okay okay so right here i have my stock under five plus i turned it on i moved everything kind of to an extreme angle and i want to actually auto home it so you guys can listen to how loud it is i have my boom mic set up right here and uh the house is completely quiet so let's see just how loud this thing is [Music] yeah so you guys get the idea so we're gonna go ahead and uh turn that off um and then we're gonna get this out and we're gonna start so pretty loud so because this is one heaping hulking boy and i don't feel like trying to move it out of here i'm gonna be on the ground and we're on the carpet working on this so just you're gonna want to get it at a good angle um either tipping it forward or tipping it on its side probably ideal avoid you know the motors there's a lot of stuff hanging off the back of this so definitely be careful we're gonna probably go with a front forward orientation and what's gonna happen is your gantry's gonna fall forward be careful of that we don't want to break anything while we're doing this and then we're going to want to get good access to the bottom so that seems pretty good i got the panel right here so we're going to start i'll be taking the camera on and off as we kind of you know tear this thing apart everything we're doing should be able to be accomplished with all the stock tools that came with the printer itself and then the first thing we're going to do is we're going to go ahead and pop off these screws on the back always remember to break torque with the flat side of your allen key first then go by and then you can actually spin them out with the round side because you don't want to damage anything make sure you have somewhere to keep all your screws so you don't lose them all right so you should be able to pop this panel off and there's actually a fan connected to the plate itself make sure the first thing i would do right now right when you open it is take a picture of where all of these plugs and wires go because you're going to want to see exactly how they run so let's go ahead here and take this so on some creality printers you'll come to find that some of the plugs are actually hot glued into the board so you have to be very careful when removing them and as you're messing around with them you might just have to kind of scrape the hot glue off and pry it away okay so this one's off we got the uh we got the fan unplugged we can move that to the side and i'm gonna try to tilt this back a little bit more so i can get a better angle on it so this is your main board this is your mosfet this is what actually helps regulate the power so you actually don't have any power supply issues this is the touchscreen um control well for the touchscreen itself you have your power switch kind of sitting back over here to the side and then you have your power supply and then you have your actual plug so there's not actually a lot in here and it's actually very much more easier to manage than the cr-10s there's way more room for activities in here so that's really nice so what we're gonna do is we're gonna go and we're gonna actually start unplugging things and moving things around so we can get better access now some things are going to be very easy to manipulate and you're going to it's going to be kind of foolproof where they go but again those pictures are going to help you and we're going to do our best to get rid of some of this hot glue that creality insists in covering everything with so like the plug for your touchscreen it obviously only goes there so we can move that back so that'll hang what else can we get all right so we have the screws with our power wires now very much take a good pictures of where these power wires are the red ones on the bottom the black ones on the top you have the tooth the skinny ones all these need to go back into the exact same spot so please just make sure you're taking good photos you can even use some tape to label things if you really want to and for the love of god i think it goes without saying please make sure that this whole system is unplugged don't leave it plugged into your wall while doing this now everything here is labeled x y and z you can see these little yellow tags and uh these are the same these are the opposites of the wires you hooked up when you were building the printer so this one says x and it goes to our x side we have our y we have our two z's and we should have our e extruder so we can go ahead and pop these out so my two z's are actually still hot glued together and we're just going to leave those how they are all right so all these these are actually our stepper controls so we can kind of pull these back a little bit actually i want to tuck them right under the power supply in the corner all right now we have better access to a picture over here and then we have things like these are all our end stops so we have our x end stop right here the next one is our y end stop and since this has a bl touch there are going to be a couple extra plugs in it so just be careful with those so there's only one wire in here that is yellow black and red and that goes all the way to the top there so seeing what wires can only go in what spots really does help you and on the board itself it actually says x y and z and the z is part of the bl touch because this doesn't actually have a z stop and it's part of the bl touch system so you can probably see it that these two wires are kind of random together so make sure you pay attention to where those go and then last we have some fans right here now we've ran into our first duplicate wires all of these white wires over here are actually all the same so one is for our bed and one is for our hot end so these need to go back in the same spot so however you need to keep these separate make sure you do that all right so mine are still hot glued together left and right so these can only go in one way but don't mix these up okay and then last is uh the power wires so we have our red or black and then we have two reds now these two reds should be going one should be going to the thermistor or the hot the heated bed and the other one should be going to the um the hot end so these need to go back in the right the same spots as well so what i'm going to do is i'm going to unscrew them hold them like this and i'm going to bend them out in their appropriate directions so just like that so we have our last one going that way and our right one going that way so everything's disconnected we're gonna go ahead and unscrew this now it's gonna be a little bit more difficult to break the torque because of all the uh components in the way but do your best with the flat end to try not to strip any of this out all right i was able to get to all of them pretty easily so that's good okay so it's all loose and let's take her up that's it so that's how you take out the main board and all the screws are still in it so let's go and grab these there should be four put this somewhere safe uh you definitely want to keep a hold of this because hey look it even says it's for a cr-10s look at that um it just has the right firmware on it um just in case something goes wrong just in case the sonic board doesn't work for whatever reason keep this somewhere safe you're also not not going to want to put your greasy fingers all over the back and all over the components i'm holding the sides very carefully um just if you want to wear rubber gloves wear rubber gloves it's probably a little bit smarter but i've been doing this for a while and i'm not worried about it so here are the two main the silent boards and they look pretty much identical one's black that's usually a pretty big giveaway on uh them being the silent boards they've created likes making them in this uh black pc pcm board or pcb board i forget what it's actually called so we're gonna go ahead and put this in and the install goes exactly the same guys you just reverse the order so i'm going to go ahead and plug everything back in there's not going to be much talking because it's literally just undoing what we just did [Music] okay so here's a little bit of a better shot of the main board and it might be a little difficult to see but we're gonna do our best right here so right next to the screwdriver you can just make out an x and then there's a y and then there's a z and then hidden in there there's also a z a y and x and then all over here the board also says x y z one z two and e one extruder so the board is labeled exactly the same so it is a little difficult to put this stuff in the wrong spot but again always double triple quadruple check [Music] yourself [Music] all right guys everything's plugged in um one thing i do want to point out is when you're actually doing these screws right here make sure that you're not slipping the wire underneath it what you're going to do is as you loosen these little contact screws here this little panel is going to open and you want to feed the wire into the top hole not the bottom to make sure you got them into the right holes just make sure that you give like a little tug on the wires if they slip out you know perfectly easily you have them in the wrong spot so make sure they're all tight and then what i would go and do and tighten the last two just to make sure everything is snug and nothing's gonna rattle and come loose because you definitely don't want anything metal coming loose and jiggling around in there so that's it everything's plugged in i compared it cross checked it with my my uh pictures you can never check enough check check triple check recheck all of that um so everything's back in everything's good uh this might be a good time to clean out some dust if you have it uh make sure nothing's you know that looks messed up nothing's burning you want to look at all the connections on your mosfet you want to look at all the connections on your um your power supply everything's nice and secure uh because you don't want to come back in here once you're done with this and that's it let's get the panel back on i'll throw it back um underneath there and we'll fire it up for the first time okay guys we're back together sitting here uh i got it plugged in i haven't turned it on yet i'm hoping everything works um this is probably a little risky for a video if nothing goes wrong i'll upload this cut if something goes wrong i'll i'll probably edit it out and tell you about it later so bl touch works it's booting up ender five plus i threw an sd card back in there that's my old print that's good um all right let's move it for the first time so the fan right here is still just as loud as it was which i mean that's totally fine but let's auto home [Music] [Music] wow [Music] guys that is disgustingly quiet okay that's amazing um so yeah that that works that works great so the next thing we're gonna do is i don't have any filament loaded on it but that's good we're gonna go and heat up everything and we're actually going to send like a ghost print i want to make sure the bed heats up i'll make sure the nozzle heats up and i want to make sure it goes through its proper sequences and it's just going to ghost print um then maybe i'll throw some filament in there at the end and uh i'll do like the raft of the print i just previously did all right so i have my left side ender five plus um homed and ready to go and then i have the new silent board one so what we're going to go ahead and do is they are both in the exact same position they are both uh like 180 180 50 and what i want to go ahead and do is auto home this and we'll catch the sound from this and then we're gonna go all on this and catch the sound from this and i'm gonna cut back and forth so you guys can hear [Music] you [Music] hmm [Applause] [Music] so [Music] isn't that absolutely insane um and also remember that these printers are sitting on a mdf board in a metal frame this is this is like a echo chamber so every noise and sound is amplified i bet if i picked these up and got them off of that wood they'd be even quieter any vibrations i'm feeling or hearing are being translated through this board and it's still quiet um this made a gigantic difference i am it made the exact same difference that my cr-10s has made so now what i've also been doing is i also went and i actually was heating up my hot ends so we are actually to temperature 215.60 it seems to be heating up exactly the same and there's just a little bit of filament sticking out there so i'm gonna go ahead and extrude some of that out real fast just to make sure that the extruder moves in the way it is supposed to so we'll go ahead and feed some through we have filament coming out and it looks great three two two or three things i want to talk about i didn't think about that when i swapped out the main board it lost all of my auto level settings it lost my z height compensation it lost all the memory so when i went to print it just started printing and it was about a half an inch above the bet what it also had done is it had turned off in my settings auto leveling so make sure you go back into your settings make sure you turn auto level back on run another whole measurement sequence and then what i had to do is then lower my z height compensation again so the little uh feeler gauge the 20.2 millimeter feeler gauge actually fit between my nozzle and my bed again so you're basically gonna have to go back and just re-level your bet um very easy to do it was very quick like i said i ran the measuring sequence went through all of that and then just lowered my z compensation until it was in the proper height and then once i ran my first print i used my prime line to go here to adjust and then i was able to dial in the actual um z height compensation so right now i'm at negative 1.8 and it is printing absolutely perfectly i have no corals with this this is dialed in exactly how it was it's printing it's heated the loudest thing on this printer now is the fan and that's the same gripe i have with my um my cr-10 max um pretty much any of these printers and it's actually the fan down here in the power supply uh the main control box again same with the cr-10 max um honestly if the fan is the loudest thing and i'm talking and i can probably talk real kind of quiet and you still can't hear the printer and if i pause you still can't hear the printer you can hear the fan 100 worth it these main boards range anywhere between 40 to 70 depending on where you find them you can get them on sale you can you can do a lot with them so uh i absolutely recommend this this this uh this setup um last thing i want to do real quick is i'm actually going to go ahead and kill the print because i want to see if print resume still works properly so we're going to turn that back on bltouch reactivates and it should give me the option to uh resume the print and it'll start heating it'll auto home and we'll see yep resume print go ahead it's going to start heating up all right here we go print resume is back on and yes i did a print resume on a raft um right when it gets back to where it was it left a little bit of a blob um it should cut right through that and then i'm gonna go ahead and stop this print and we're back to printing print resume works see just hit that blob uh it's gonna probably mess it up a little bit um usually you don't do a print resume on a raft i would probably have just restarted this print right from the get go right from scratch but it is working so print resume works um really i don't really want to test thermal runaway that's always a little risky but the last thing we can test is the filament run out sensor and that'll kill the printer okay and the filament sensor still works uh it turned off killed the print and it's gonna wait for a filament reload which i'm not gonna do i'm gonna go ahead and turn it off and that's a wrap all right that does it for this video guys um 10 out of 10 would absolutely recommend a silent board it doesn't need to be the creality brand they do make um aftermarket ones that might be a little bit cheaper might offer more uh features but the tmc 2208 and 2209 smoothers that come on these silent boards they are what make it worth it they are what actually make the stepper motors a lot quieter um they smooth everything out less vibration better movement so getting a silent board definitely makes the printer a lot quieter now i don't need silent boards in that room it's in a separate room we don't hear them anyway but if you do have a printer in a loft or an apartment or upstairs somewhere you are going to hear them they are going to vibrate through the floor so these do become a lot more worth it or maybe you just hate the sound i know people who don't like it i personally like the sound of the 3d printer so to each his own this isn't a necessary upgrade it's only going to make things quieter um but this does it for the last upgrade i want to do to these ender 5 pluses now we can move into actually printing our iron man bus the whole point of this entire series so the next video is going to be finding the bus slicing the g code getting everything going so probably in the next video it'll all be one print so i'm really excited about that uh someone's at my door hold on where was i anyway yeah we're gonna actually start making the iron man buffs so hopefully in the whole next video we're gonna go over settings we're gonna go over on the slicing looking at the printer what can fit on the ender five plus in one shot um we're not gonna be going incredibly in depth in the curious settings but i will talk about infill support density all that things that i use to make my prints go a little bit smoother and what i look for in terms of print survivability just because you can print big doesn't mean you always should but sometimes you can get away with it if you guys haven't already if you could subscribe i would really appreciate it if you came here from the creality website however you found my channel um i teach you how to make all this nerdy stuff i have a lot of cool videos coming out i have a whole new iron man student work i have a lot of cool props it's not all marvel i am branching out i just happen to like marvel so it's worked out pretty well for me if you guys want to join a really cool 3d printing community and cosplay community and learn more about this there's a link down below for my discord it's almost at a thousand members and maybe you guys can help us push us over that edge it's full of beginners and newbies and pros and experts on 3d printing and cosplay and people are making all types of cool stuff it's an absolutely wonderful community a lot less clutter than the facebook groups and you'll get an answer much much quicker i promise you that so go please check that out that just about does it for this video guys again huge shout out to creality for uh giving me this under five plus to do this project with it's been such a cool printer and definitely is turning into my favorite printer um i wish i had it when i made this suit i would have been able to print a lot more parts um bigger but my cr-10s still did the job absolutely beautifully but the under five plus is sneaking up on it real quickly so uh definitely make sure you guys go check that out and uh that just about does it i'm gonna stop ranting and rambling now thank you so much for watching and you guys have a good day [Music] you

Channel: Frankly Built

Views: 16,489

Keywords: ender-5 plus, creality, silent mainboard, how to make the ender-5 quiet, quiet 3d printer, silent 3d printer, silent ender, tmc2208, tmc2209, ender5plus, ender 5 plus, creality ender, ender 3d printer, silent ender 5

Id: Z23rmYYkCcE

Length: 23min 20sec (1400 seconds)

Published: Wed Nov 11 2020