Lerdge K 32-bit 3D Printer Mainboard Guide and Review

previously on this channel i've covered 3d printer mainboards that have been exclusively run on marlin firmware now with marlin firmware that usually means that you're configuring the software yourself compiling it flashing the board and then reiterating as you figure out the correct settings for your 3d printer either that or sometimes you get lucky and you find someone that provides binaries for your particular setup now that's not the only type of main board that you can find though and one company lurge is providing 3d printer main boards with some proprietary firmware that only requires on-screen configuration to get it running on your 3d printer now in this video today i'm going to be covering the first of one of their main boards and this is the large k board now this is a high-end board as you can see it has six different steppers has loads of features and i'm going to be putting this in my ender 5 plus hooking everything up doing the on-screen configuration and seeing how well it runs in my printer now of course i'm going to start out by covering all the features of this board comparing it to some of those that are already on the market and we're going to see how this board stacks up to some of the other options that i've covered previously that's what i'm doing today right here on kersey fabrications let's go so one comment before i get going here if you're new to this channel please keep in mind that this video is both a review as well as a tutorial about the technology that i'm reviewing so if you are looking for a specific piece of this video whether it be the tutorial or the review or just the conclusion please check out both the description as well as the bottom bar of this video for the chapters of this video which i have included as much breakdown as i can so that you can find exactly what you're looking for with your visit to this channel so i hope that helps you out and enjoy the rest of the video so as i mentioned i've already covered a handful of main boards on this channel starting with the stock and the silent boards for the ender five plus and then going through a handful of big tree tech boards you can check out all of those videos right up here if you haven't seen those before now this board from lurge though this is going to be the biggest and feature rich main board that i've covered on this channel so far so first of all let's start out by going over the features of this main board and as you can see here on the chart that i'm about to put on the screen i not only have the lurch k which is the larger option offered by alerts but i also have the large x which is a smaller main board that may work better in some of your smaller 3d printers such as an ender 3 or even a regular ender 5 3d printer which don't have as many attachments so this has got all of the boards that i have covered on this channel thus far from the stock board to the big tree tech board such as the mini e3 version 2.0 the skrv 1.4 turbo and the latest e3 turbo which i covered not too long ago now also on this chart you'll notice i've got the skr pro version 1.2 which i'm going to be covering in the future now go ahead and pause this video if you want to take a look at this larger chart otherwise i'm going to replace it here with a chart that has just the boards that are comparable in features because some of the smaller boards don't really compare apples to apples to this board so as you can see on this new table i've only got the new e3 turbo the v 1.4 turbo and then really the closest comparison to this board is big tree tex skr pro version 1.2 when you're talking about the size of the board and the feature set of the board so let's go over this table a little bit looking at some of the most important features so starting on the left of this table let's take a look at the two boards that i've already reviewed previously as we can see both of these boards are running the same processor they're lpc 1769 processors they both run at 120 megahertz and they both have 512 kilobytes of flash now the big difference between these two boards is that one board has the onboard tmc 2209 steppers while the other board has slots to put in your own steppers whichever ones you choose so moving to the right side of this table let's take a look at the two larger options and these two boards are actually running the same processor they're both running stm32f4 based processors again 32-bit processors they are cortex m4 cores and they both run at 168 megahertz and have a full one megabyte of cache and these two boards have socketed stepper drivers with no stepper drivers on board so you can put in whichever steppers you like depending on what their functionality is going to be so at this point i'm just going to be focusing on the lurch k column and then comparing it to the other boards on the left so as you can see of course we do support dual z stepper drivers on this board because we've got six total steppers to dedicate one for each of our z-axis from that point we have up to two hot end support it in addition to the fact that we are going to be running dual z's we have three controllable fans now this means that we have three fans that can be controlled using our firmware this means that you can turn them on and off via software and you can control the variable speed on those fans we have two always on fans that just means while the board is on these fans will be on we have six total end stops a min or a max depending on how your printer is designed we have two filament run out detections one for each of our hot ends we do have a dedicated eeprom on this board which is just a feature i love to have because it means that your settings for your printer are going to be stored in a dedicated location which means if your flash gets wiped you won't lose your settings now the only other board in this table that has that is the most recent board i reviewed which was the skr e3 turbo this one does have neopixel support much like the smaller of the two boards in this table something that the skr pro v 1.2 does not have we do not have i squared c expansion on this board which isn't really a big deal most people are not going to use that feature but we do have spy expansion ur expansion and this one does have the optional wi-fi add-on module it does have some additional expansion ports that you can find more about by checking the website for this board which of course will be linked in the description this one does have usb flash drive support much like the skr pro v 1.2 something that the two smaller boards the e3 turbo and the v 1.4 turbo do not have and we look at the display for this board lerp provides a three and a half inch 480 by 320 ips display that is a touch screen display for this main board and of course we'll take a look at that in a minute when we do the unboxing now let's go ahead and get cost of this board out of the way you'll notice that the board by itself is 51.80 which is pretty much the same price as our skr pro is running then if you want it with just the display it's 6650 and then you can buy a complete package which is what i'm going to be showing you here which is the board the display and the tmc 2209 drivers for all six sockets for eighty dollars and fifty cents which is cheaper than the skr pro with just the drivers if you'll notice in my skr pro column that 89.98 is the price of the board with the drivers but no display so you are coming in cheaper with the lurge option so now that we've seen all of the details let's actually do an unboxing of this let's take a look at what comes in the box and what you're going to get with one of your lurch kits so here we are with the package that i received from lurge notice right here it tells us exactly what we've got we've got a large k and it comes with tmc 2209 drivers and that's pretty much it for the box opening it up right here in the top of the box we see we actually have our main board and here is the large k as you'll notice they actually come pre-populated with the 2209's correctly installed in the slots i'm actually going to assume that since they went ahead and pre-populated the boards that they've already set our jumpers accordingly let's hope that that is a safe assumption so as you can see here's our main 32-bit processor and as we get ready to actually install this in the printer i will of course go over what each of the connectors do on the board so that whether you're installing this into ender 5 plus or whether you're installing it in some other printer it should be an easy fit into that printer once you know how this actually connects so let's set this aside go ahead down further into this box as you can see it actually comes with some extra headers for this board i don't think we'll need those but it comes with it just in case and you remove this layer and you get down into the lower layers of the box where the rest of the components are that this is going to come with now first thing obviously you're going to need a display and that's what this is right here this is the three and a half inch display that is also a touch screen and for this touch screen they do include if i find it down in here a stylus just in case you don't want to use your fingers you hate fingerprints or maybe you just got fat fingers and this is going to be a lot easier for you over here you'll notice that one of the things they also include is a jog wheel that you can solder in place right over here just as another way to do input on this display now this is an optional feature and as i'm going to show you here in a minute when i show you the display mount that i've designed you can use this or you can just leave it off now you've got six stepper drivers on this board so you're obviously going to need some heat sinks for those drivers and those are included as well i will show you how those install they have this wonderful quick connect for your main power on your board this is going to go to your power supply this right here is going to hook in right to your main board of course we'll cover that also in a minute if you need a tiny screwdriver uh some of these chips right here you can adjust the voltage here i'm hoping that these will allow us to be adjusted actually in firmware and not have to do it with a little screwdriver but we will see that when we get into the firmware and there is the well instead of trying to pull this out this is the knob for the optional toggle wheel and you have a couple of cables that they provided a couple of ribbon cables to hook up your display to your main board i think we're only going to need one of these so one of them is just an extra in case you damage it or it just somehow gets damaged in the process so there is your quick overview of what comes with your kit here i also have a couple of other electronics i'm going to be showing off today first of all this is your usb add-on now this is an add-on feature this is not required by the board and i don't believe that it actually comes with this board by default now this is of course you can hook up usb directly to the board so that you can send commands to it over hopefully octoprint or directly from your pc and if you want the wi-fi attachment which i'll also go through later this is the little wi-fi add-on and i believe i can just get in here by peeling this back and here we've got our wi-fi add-on that you also in order to hook this up i also believe you have to have the usb add-on that that is going to plug into so this is kind of a bundle deal if you want all the connectivity that is what you're going to need now let's take a look at the parts that we're actually going to need if we're going to mount this in any printer and of course i specifically have the parts here for the ender 5 plus so what i have here on the table are the basic components that you're going to need to install this board and display into any 3d printer you can find a variety of options depending on which printer or type of printer you're installing this into there are going to be a variety of sites that you can find free 3d models that people have already created to help you install this into your system now what i've got here this is going to be the actual mount for the main board and we'll see that when we install this into our printer as you can see it mounts here it's going to adapt this main board to the ender 5 plus we also are going to have a display mount that will again adapt it for our specific printer now the one i designed here i designed to mount the existing mounting option that i've shown in a previous video and so this will adapt using that same plate that i've used before and i'll show you how all this goes together obviously you're going to need some screws to put this together i have some m two and a half socket head screws i use the eight millimeter for mine and you'll notice i've got actually two different top options depending on whether you installed the jog wheel or whether you're going without the jog jogger and i printed both of these options out so that you could see the difference now for mine the original mounting holes in the ender five plus don't fully support this board so what i've done is i've actually added some extra holes here that i can use some additional standoffs on to support the bottom of this board now those aren't strictly necessary there's not going to be a lot of you know weight or anything on here but i put those in there just to provide a little bit of peace of mind beyond this you might need some cables you might be cutting into your case i am going to be showing you in the under five plus basically using mods that i had done in a previous video which i will of course link in the description and in one of these corners as well so that you can see those previous mods i had to make so from here let's go and take a look at my installation process which is going to of course include a complete walkthrough of the board layout so that you will know how to hook this up for your printer so as i alluded to earlier i'm going to be using the same ender 5 plus that i used in a previous video for an upgrade and that's because in this printer i already have all of the modifications that i'm going to need for this new main board so if you missed that video where i actually did all of the mods here i'm going to link that up here so that you can follow along now here in a minute as i get this thing turned over i'll obviously go over all of those mods just so that you can see what i've done and so that you can make the same sort of mods to your printer no matter which printer you're using now obviously on this printer you can see i've got an external power supply right here now whether you're using the internal or the external power supply this mod should work for you i'm really hoping that everything still fits i have measured so i believe it's still going to work but anyway it's time to pull this one apart i need to take all my wiring off i need to pull this out so that i can work on it easier that's what i'm going to do right now get everything turn it over here on the desk and we can get started with this upgrade so here we are everything on the table and i know there's a lot going on here so let me kind of walk you around explain what's going on here and then i'll move forward so first of all i've got my display here in the middle of the table with my soldering iron because i am going to install the jog wheel mainly because i want to test it and see how it works with the interface so i'm going to solder that onto our main board second thing if your power supply is in your chassis over here you'll be able to connect these wires directly to your power supply now for my case where the power supply is outside the chassis these wires are not going to be long enough i'm going to need to solder them to these two leads which go to the power supply these are a smaller gauge than these wires and i know that these wires are heavy enough to carry all the current that the main board typically needs so i'm going to solder the red wires to the red wire and the black wires to this black wire so again that's what all of this is for now over here we have our display mount we have all of our various screws that we're going to need for mounting and over here off camera we have stuff for the main board mounting and we'll get to that in just a minute as well as how we're going to install this in the chassis so let me get this all soldered together ready to go and then we'll move probably over this way so all right so there's one more piece of prep work we have to do before we're ready to install this in the chassis and that's to install these heat sinks onto our stepper drivers now the real key when installing these is just to make sure that you don't touch any of the pins with the aluminum heat sink and there's just enough clearance to make sure that you don't have that problem as you can see here we're going to peel it off we're going to stick it right here and you need to watch it this direction and you'll need to watch it this direction because it should be not sitting on any of those pins and right on the end of that stepper driver so that's what i'm going to do now i'm going to peel this off just the blue piece there we go and then once the blue piece is peeled off i'm just going to line it up with the end on this side and then make sure that we're not touching any of the pins because since this is an aluminum heat sink it would conduct electricity and would be really bad for our drivers so i think you can see right there looks good we're going to push that down really well make sure that it's centered and check from the other side as well and that one looks good now all right all done and i think these look pretty good again making sure that they're aligned well making sure we're not going to short anything out now it's time to shift everything over and let's get it installed okay so starting with an empty case i've got all of my wires ready to go over here including that newly soldered power wire that i worked on just a minute ago now beyond that if you saw the other video maybe if you didn't see the other video i also have a usb extension cable for this particular chassis because it's not convenient to build new holes into this chassis so i've got this usb type b extension cable i also have already installed the mounting plate for the display adapter that i'm going to be using for this case this is the same mounting plate that i used for some of my other boards i also have recently purchased a usb extension cable usb type a extension cable with a right angle connector for the usb port that is available on that board i also have a usb extension cable since that cable is relatively short just in case i need it so this chassis is all ready to go and then the only thing left to do to prep for this board is to get this new adapter plate that i've installed ready to go one thing to mention as i have these three holes up here and these are so that i can put standoffs on here so that when we're pushing down on this board we're not flexing the board and so that it doesn't you know flex any point you know while it's being moved around or anything so i've got these six millimeter standoffs technically i think you need like seven or eight millimeter standoffs which i just don't have and i've built these holes in here for that and these are just m3 standoffs with m3 screws so i'm going to get those three installed on here and we will be ready to then go ahead and mount it to the existing holes on the case one two and three there we go now like i said we can install this into the chassis right here let's move everything out of the way and then we have the chassis screws which we've got four screws and we're going to just use the screws that came out to begin with we've got one two three and four so let's just use those screws that it came with there we go and as i said these are just a little high but overall they look pretty good if you really wanted to you could also drill holes in the top here and actually seat these into the top of the case due to the fact that i go through a lot of boards here i'm not actually going to drill those holes but you could do that and that would make it even more stable one thing i forgot to mention also i do have a micro sd card adapter that runs out here to the side of the case and i also have that because it has a micro sd slot on it so before we mount up our brand new beautiful board let's go ahead and do what i have done before and it is time to go over the wiring diagram and adjust my brightness all right brightness levels adjusted and now we're ready to look at the paper just like we always do now right here this is directly from lurge this is their interface definition map and notice they do a nice job here just giving us a key based upon the color of the pins as they have them labeled so we have red is going to be power which is going to be anywhere from 18 to 30 volts orange is going to be a 5 volt line black is going to be a ground and then we have signal in or signal out which is either going to be blue or purple right here and then we have an analog signal input which is going to be a green pin and whether we have inputs output signal pins that's what's going to be most important when we're hooking this up right here so going around the board as we always do let's start at the top here we have our motor connectors and of course x y z we've got e0 e1 which i'm going to assume is going to be our second z motor and then we have an ex motor which we can use for a second extruder if we were going to install one as long as having two z's now if you're installing this on a machine that doesn't have 2z motors or 2x motors or 2y motors then you can just go straight right here for that second extruder if that's what you're planning to do and right here we have one of our first fans and notice that this is our power and this is our ground and also in the upper right hand corner of this board right here we have just a header which has three different connectors which has power and ground pins on it and again those are whatever our power inputs are whether it's a 12 volt input or 24 volt input same thing going to the fans right here going on this side we say we have a bunch of end stops so whether it's a min or a max for x y and z those are going to connect right here now these two you'll notice i have my diagram all marked up because right here is where we're going to connect our bl touch and i know i didn't have a whole lot of room here so it's not as nice as i wish it was but if you need to you know pause here zoom in whatever you need to do notice our black and white wire are going to go right here and that is directly from our bl touch acting as an end stop on our ender 5 plus we're not going to use the z end stop we're using our bl touch as an install and then these three servo pins right here are going to be the first pin is going to be either blue black or brown depending on which version of the bl touch you have the center pin is going to be our red wire and then on the purple one here we either have yellow or orange again depending on which version of the bl touch you have that's going to go right there going around the board we see over here we have our usb port we've got our micro sd slot this connector down here is where we're going to attach our lurge provided display now right here we have two different places that we can hook in led strips now if we just have a on off white led strip that's going to connect right here if we have an rgb based led strip that's going to go right here and large does sell both of those and i do have one here that i may try to hook up that's just the on off version so right here we have a series of connectors for the two primary hot ends that this is going to support so down on the bottom is going to be all for hot and zero and up top is going to be for all for hot end one so on our ender 5 plus which currently only has one hot end we're going to connect everything on the bottom down here so right down here they're called material sensors this is where our filament detection sensor is going to plug in and we have signal ground and power right here this is going to be our thermistor coming from our hot end and those both of those are analog inputs those do not matter where you plug in one or the other wire right here we have our hot bed sensor which is again going to be a thermistor and while they have one black and one green it doesn't matter which way which way we plug this one in either so when we get down here to the lower right i got a little confused because the actual board is labeled slightly different than the actual diagram which i have in front of me and i'm actually going to go with the board markings rather than the diagram marking so please be careful right here because i still believe that they put all the zeros on the bottom and all the ones on the top and right here notice this one is labeled the hot end pwm fan so this is our material fan and this is going to be the always on fan that goes to our heatsink right there moving on to the right here we have our hot and zero and our hot n1 power and now while these do have again a power and a ground the polarity on these will usually not matter again here on the hotbed we have a power and a ground but the only time that this will matter will be is if we're using an external mosfet just like what we have here and so it will matter to us but if this is going straight to a hotbed then you can just disregard the power and ground here under most circumstances now right here as we saw on our main board right here this is our main power connector which we soldered up earlier or which you will run directly to your power supply if it's going to reach if you have purchased the power management adapter that will plug in right here and right here they have a status led if you have somewhere that you can run that to on your chassis so i think that about does it we've been all the way around the board now it's time to actually put this in practice hook everything up and see how it works so first thing first before we go any further with the main board i actually do want to go ahead and get my display mounted because that's going to make it a lot easier to run these cables from the display to the main board so let's get that done first so as i mentioned i designed a new nice chassis for this display i've already got my screws in here that i mentioned first these are m two and a half socket head eight millimeter if i remember correctly and notice since i did of course attach that jog wheel to my display i've got the hole cut out here if you didn't there's the display cover so first things first we need to go ahead and get this mounted to our chassis to our mount right there and we can kind of line that up and these are just m3 screws and i am not exactly sure what length these are probably 10 millimeter or so we're going to go ahead and get those screwed in they should be self-tapping you could obviously you know use some of the threaded inserts if you wanted to make them more sturdy but these actually do tap really well into here without any problem again if you need any of these mounts they will be available in the description below there we go so that's on there really sturdy i'm actually pretty happy with that more than i thought it was going to be i even have here a little hole for the speaker on here so let's go ahead pull that off we won't need that that's just for the manufacturing of the board now what we need to do is go ahead and install one of our ribbon cables on here which i'm going to pull right out of our package again it comes with two of these you can use either one they're exactly the same it's just an extra in case you need it so this probably comes popped up if not you'll see here it just pops up if you've got fingernails to do it just like that and then we're going to take blue side up because the contacts are on the bottom we're going to insert that all the way in until it stops and then i just like to push down with my thumb like that and then we can lay that down right here do a little tug on it make sure that it's stable and it is then we're going to take our ribbon cable put it through that hole and the last thing we need to do before we put the top on is remove our protective cover because it would be difficult to do that afterwards let's get this on here just like this and then these screw holes may have to remove the screws a little bit let me show you one thing real quick that i did when i designed this cover you'll notice no i knew that was going to happen oh well no big deal get those out of my way and then i won't have to worry about it later okay as you see one thing i did when i designed this cover i didn't like how easy it was with the other design for these to just move around so i put little tabs on here these are easy to print my printer didn't have any problem printing these ahead of time that will help you line up the whole chassis as you're getting it put together got that inserted nicely into there again ribbing going through the case and then it's just a matter of lining it up using those nice tabs i've built in and it works really well and we can just screw this in i need to back these out a little bit i forgot to keep them a little bit loose until i get everything lined up properly again i could see a little bit of the top of my display here i'm just adjusting it a little bit using that jog wheel just to make sure that that doesn't show any more than it has to then i'm going to tighten this thing down make sure you don't over tighten it as a psp it does have a display on it and we don't want to damage any of our sensitive electrical components that we just received and there we go nice looking display i really like how that went on there and for good measure we of course have the actual jog wheel itself that i have to pull out of this package and this doesn't have any particular way because it goes all the way around and at this point i'm just going to push this on here all the way down and while you can see a little bit of my square here i didn't see any reason to design anything to cover that up it is what it is and that looks good my jog will work works really well i'm happy with that so let's flip it back over all right so now we're just about ready to actually screw down the board but what we need to do first to make this easy on ourselves is to go ahead anything on this front line here we need to go ahead and attach because we may not be able to get to it easily later so that means i need to install my usb adapter if you bought one of these these will go on this will go on first and it will attach right here into these small connectors just like that and then we have our wi-fi module that will also go on and that is that add-on deck right there and then we can go ahead and attach our usb which is going to go right here it doesn't really matter which way it comes out this one already installed in my case and then of course we need to go also and plug in our micro sd slot adapter which goes right in here now i was wrong before we don't technically need to go ahead and install this now so i can go ahead and wait as we get everything installed there to keep it out of the way finally we also have the right angled usb connector which hopefully still goes in here unfortunately i have bought the usb angle that goes this way because i thought i was going to take it out that side of the chassis but it's not going to go with the micro sd card adapter as well it's going to be one or the other unless you buy one that comes this way so i'm going to go with the micro sd adapter because everything i use is microsd let's go ahead and now get this mounted right here onto our mounting plate looks like i'm not going to have any problems with the wiring other than that five screws total one in each corner and then this one right here and for the record these are m three by six screws that i'm installing into the board there we go we make sure everything's lined up now let's get all of these wires attached i think i'm going to start with the screw in terminals up here so starting with these because they're sitting here let's go ahead and we're going to need a phillips screwdriver head just like that and let's go ahead and get this is going to be our hotbed and then black on the right and red on the left notice i've already put ferrules on all of these for good connections again the hot end wires both red these again the polarity does not matter we can go ahead and plug in our power wire which only can go in one way and you notice it has a clip right here that's going to go on that side then i'll do some cable management when i'm done because i've got a lot of extra wire here let's go ahead and do our motors because those are simple to get to around the side here got our y motor we have the y end stop so that's going to go right here and that's going to be ground and signal and then it's going to leave the 5 volt pin open we have z2 which i'm going to put z2 down here on to our e1 motor so future chris here correcting issues that pass chris has made so that you won't make the same mistakes and as i found out when i was configuring this you'll see this later in the video this z2 does not go into e1 like it normally would on a marlin board it will go to this ex motor which will go right down here now as you'll see as i continue with this installation it will be right here but that is wrong if you have both your z motors and you want those in separate locations that second z motor will need to be hooked up down here and that's all i wanted to show you and we will move forward and you'll see the configuration of this later i'm going to put z1 onto our z motor we've got e which is going to go to e0 we've got x which is of course going to go to x and that of course has the x in stop attached to it that's going to go again towards the top of your screen right here again going to ground and signal leaving the 5 volt pin open now we have some more these two colored wires here are going to be our fans the black and red one are going to be to our heatsink fan which goes right here again double checking our polarity black is towards the bottom of your screen red is towards the top and then we have our pwm fan which is going to go right here blue representing ground in yellow representing power or in this case a pwm signal looking at our two thermistors again make sure before you get going on here you label the wires because these two wires look the same otherwise you're going to be tracing it up to figure out where it goes the heated bed sensor goes right here and then the hot end sensor goes right here which is the one at least in my case that i didn't label final three connectors i believe this is our filament detection and we again need to check all of our wiring here against the original diagram and the original diagram is telling me that this is actually wired backwards in terms of these two pins right here this one should be the signal which would be yellow and this one should be the power which is the top which would be red so i need to get in here with a very small screwdriver tip push down these pins and swap them all right here again i don't know if the camera is going to cooperate with the change in brightness here but i do verify that right here that we have the correct wiring again we have it's going to go this way signal ground and power so now we can plug that in and last but certainly not least we have our bl touch connections and just i was mentioning before this is going to be black and white and again if these are swapped with the way that they were on your previous main board you will need to swap these around again black going towards the bottom white going towards the top and for this connector again as we mentioned earlier the bottom connector should always be red the center one is going to be blue black or brown and the top one will be orange or yellow just depending on which generation of wiring you received so i'm going to take these i'm going to try to put all these through this way just to clean up the wiring let me pull that back off hopefully a little bit more carefully than that next time i'm going to push that back down then i'm going to do some careful cable management cleaning all of this up in just a minute and then our final wire is going to be our lcd connector same way that we did on the lcd keep in mind the connectors are on the bottom that means the blue is going to be towards the top we need to open that up stick this in there very carefully until it stops okay then we can when we pretty sure we've hit the bottom there we can close it up and now that connector is in there so now it's time for cable management sealing the box back up plugging it into our power supply and everything and hoping for the best now depending on your printer don't close it up at this point flip it over turn the power on making sure everything works correctly on mine i can't do that so we're going to seal and then we're going to see if this works so two things i wanted to cover before i close this up because this will be the last time i can show these to you number one lurch sent over this massive mosfet so if you're using a really big heater bed that's going to take a lot of juice and you want to protect your main board then you can purchase this directly from them this thing will do 12 to 50 volts in and 30 amps max throughput on here that means if you're running a 24 volt power supplies you're going to get up to 720 watts out of this mosfet i would replace mine to be honest because this is really cool looking but i haven't had any problems with the one and that would require another adapter plate so just keep in mind they do sell these in case you need them last thing of course our cover and your printer also might have a cooling fan for your main board at least i sure hope it does and if so the fan connector for that is right here on this board and the power is going to be this way on the board down on your screen and the ground is going to be up towards the other connectors so just wanted to show you that that's where i'm going to be plugging mine in right before i close this up so this is legitimately the first time i'm going to turn this on i have everything buttoned up the only thing i haven't done is the external cable management here but other than that we're just going to see if it powers on if i get a display doesn't necessarily mean that everything's hooked up 100 correctly until i've gone through and configured everything on the display but it'll at least let me know that there's life and that we're ready to go so let's find out i hear the bl touch welcome to lurge and that was a really quick boot up there on that display i really like that right off the bat i actually do see that i have my hot end temperature and i have my bed temperature so at least a couple of things are hooked up right things are reporting correctly and it actually does look really nice i'm happy with the way that this is looking so far so the next step is i think i'm going to zoom in close here i'm going to kind of walk you through the screens in terms of how we configure this and i'm going to see if i can get this printer printing before the end of this video so anytime i'm about to do a new configuration with a new piece of hardware the first thing i do is download a new firmware so i went to the large website downloaded their latest release which was 4.2.0 they had a couple of beta releases but i thought i'd stay away with something labeled beta and i've got my sd card here this will allow us to see if the sd card slot is working properly so we go here let's go to settings system back system and then we're going to hit this up arrow right here according to the directions and click that and notice it says we do not have a usb plugged in but we do have a micro sd so i'm going to click that we need to go to large case system let's use this there we go there so nice reason to have this this actually works really well so let's do that firmware i'm going to grab that bin and say okay execute update let's say update here we go we see that the firmware is updating completely even if my camera doesn't like it all right we're back with everything in focus we should be running the latest firmware let's see if i can figure out where we checked that system system info and notice we're now running 420 which is that latest firmware where downloaded i did check it before and we were running 4-1-0 all right let's go through the structure menu for setup this is a standard xyz machine then we're going to look at the various settings that we can turn on for this printer travel space this is going to be our machine sizes so for this machine this distance is going to be 360 millimeters as the x the y is going to be 360 millimeters and then the z you can either set to 400 or 410 depending on what you're comfortable with i'm going to go 410 exit that one home position settings so we need to know where does it home on this printer and so for this printer our home on the x is actually at the maximum position which is the back right corner the y is also max because again back right corner and then the z is still going to be the min so we're going to leave that one alone pause position settings where are we going to go with the printhead when we are paused i think that we can leave these pretty much at default for now if we want to make adjustments later when we figure out like if we want to make little tweaks here we will but we'll leave that one alone change filament setting this has to do with what you want the printer settings to be when you're changing the filament so for example if i know that most of my filament is going to change temperature at 200 or so i can set that right here change filament speed might be a certain millimeters per second we can do just something logical like 40 filament length maybe i only want to go about 10 because i'm going to push it in myself so i just need something minimal and then extrude length retract length something sensible for this printer maybe seven millimeters or so and i'm gonna set that on both again there may be some trial and error i have to do it's a new printer new firmware i'm gonna have to see how this works then we got some advanced settings here okay so for the home offset i don't think we need to change anything here at least that's what i believe to start off with the in stop setting these are going to be set to normally closed for both this one and this one we don't actually have a physical nz stop so that one doesn't need to be changed we'll be using our bl touch the auto leveling setting note we have the number of leveling points so this is going to be the number of points in the x and y direction so if we want nine total points it would be three by three normally on this printer we have about a five by five so i want to do that there the x probe offset we can get this from our marlin firmware for my hero me gen 3 that i've got on here it's negative 45 negative 7. i'll put up here on the display if you have a stock hotend what it will be and then the z i'm going to put z probe offset we're going to leave it it's normally like negative 3 but that's not an option on here so i'm going to leave this where it is we will adjust it when we try to go print and then the probe is used for z-min which it is all right so next we're going to switch the pages and then we have a series of settings that we're going to need for specifically for the bl touch and luckily they did provide the settings in their documentation as you see right here let's see if this matches up i've got 10 90 160. i'm going to change that to nc and that is going to be high and we've only got two pages here so that should be good to go okay software retract settings uh these are going to be what our normal retraction settings are for you know that are normally put in our slicer but they're always defaults i think mindset are set to seven at this point so we're going to leave those at seven tractor and recovery speed uh this should be way way slower than that i think i'm at 35. i'll double check all these later and put them up here on the screen if i have changed it and then z access lift 2 sounds like a good default there we're not going to set up any linear advance on this printer at this time so i'm going to leave that setting alone so we're going to click down here now this is where i'm going to set up whether i have a second hotend which i do not and i'm going to set up what ex access function is and here i have just learned that i have actually hooked up my z my second z motor to the wrong location because apparently it needs to be on the e x pins of course you're watching this video i've already annotated this in the video but i'm just finding this out now and as you can see i need to pick which access that e x axis is going to be for and now i know i'm going to set that up there that's going to be it for the structure settings let's go to the motor settings now we can set up some defaults for the acceleration the travel the extrusion and then limiting acceleration what the maximum should be for this printer again i'm going to pull these values out of my marlin firmware i'm going to put those in right here my default printing acceleration is 500. my default travel acceleration is going to be 500 now of course set these to whatever works best on your printer and the extrusion acceleration is a thousand limiting acceleration what are the maximums that we allow this printer to print again on here currently i have very conservative values of 500 500 and z is going to be 100 and then e is going to be 5 000. and some of these aren't fully tweaked but you get the idea of what i'm setting it to here go back speed limiting speed these are perfectly okay with me for now we can again tweak these later but i think those are fairly good uh speeds for this printer and obviously you're going to set these in your slicer anyway these are just defaults mutation speed i don't even know what mutation speed is i will have to look that up put it right here on the screen with the definition homing speed leave those as defaults see if we have any problems positioning speed again leave that where it is step value now this is of course very important if we do not set our steps per millimeter correctly the printer is definitely not going to work correctly so by default we've got 80 80 800 default steps per millimeter on this printer is 93 so i'll set that for now we can do my custom ones later and i do not have an e1 at this time direction i'm showing in marlin firmware that have both of these inverted so we're going to try that again if this doesn't work correctly we will stop the printer in its tracks and just come back in and set these later okay so this is for timeout setting over here this looks like a trinamic symbol so let's take a look at that trinamic let's go ahead and set these values right here and see if they work like they're supposed to so again it started out as untrinamic but i know that these are 2209s chopper model we want stealth chop microsteps are 16 drive current these look like decent settings to begin with i do think that i normally have my drive current set to 650 on the x sensor this homing definitely don't want sensorless homing so we're going to take we're not going to touch that one on the y motor i'm going to set the current to 800 which is what i was using before i switch main boards on the z motor i'm going to run 650 and then on the extruder motor i'm going to run 800 again okay so on the ex motor setting i'm actually going to turn that one on 2209 i know this one i'm actually using and so for here i'm going to have to set the drive current to the same thing that i set for my other z-axis which was 650 and then leave those alone right now so i think we are all set up there temperature hot in zero settings since there's going to be a standard hundred k resistor we're going to have different options here minimum temperature zero is fine maximum temperature i've got an all metal hot end on here so it's very easy for me to change that to 300 protection threshold we're going to leave that's where it at for defaults pid settings we need to do some auto tuning here in a few minutes i'm going to leave that alone for now as well we do not need to do anything with hotend one because we don't have one heat bed setting sensor type again a 100k resistor is what we've got minimum temperature zero maximum temperature 110 100 either that either of those would be fine again this has got pit on it so we can do some auto tuning here in a minute preheat settings it's got some defaults we can of course adjust these later but for now i'm going to leave them alone now it does have the ability to export the config file which is a really handy thing given the fact that you know we may lose settings if we flash this firmware or something like that but we have the export values right there and i think we are ready to actually go and test this new setup see if it will home test these one at a time and see how it does all right so now that all of our settings in place it's actually time to test those settings one at a time again anytime you're putting together a new machine you're configuring your own firmware whether it be on a touch screen or in files and recompiling you need to take your time and test this properly otherwise you're going to try to do something and you'll either smash a print head somewhere into your printer or you could possibly burn something up and we don't want to do that so first things first you know we can put our print head in our middle here and then we can see what happens when we try to home it so x right here will home the x-axis only and we can see if that works as you can see up here it did home it's a little slow but that's something that can be adjusted later let's go y and y is moving in the right direction and again a little slow but it looks good and then z which is bl touch and you know that's going to be interesting see if we can get the bl touch working properly so the bl touch is already airing out not exactly sure why how do we reset the bl touch okay so apparently there is a little icon in the move section that you can do off reset and on and that plays with the bl touch so that's pretty nice right there in the middle of that home screen or excuse me the move control screen so we're going to back that out again and let's home z again and see if it works this time there we go the l touch is working also now so i think the next thing to do if you'll notice on here well you can't see it probably from where you are but none of my fans are running so the hot end fan isn't running yet i don't believe that the case fan the case fan is actually running since we're running motors now so i do like that because i did check this before and it was not running so it does seem to cut on when it's needed which is a terrific feature on here so now let's try to heat up the hot end and let's see if this top fan cuts on cuts on for us so let's go ahead and go to the heating menu and do a pla preheat see if that works it is setting the hot end to 200c and this fan cut on as soon as it went to actually heat up the nozzles so really nice out of the box i really like that it is going for a silent printer this fan doesn't cut on until it needs to the hot end fan doesn't cut on till it needs to so that's terrific and the thing we want to be looking for of course at this point are we getting our temperatures rising on the hot end and are we getting our temperatures rising on the print bed it does look like we are in both cases so what i'm going to do now i'm going to let it heat up and we'll come right back to see if it hit its target temp okay so just as expected it hit target tip it stopped just like we wanted it to so there are just a few things i need to test at this point and get set up before we're ready to try our first test print first thing i want to do i want to test and see does the part cooling fan work cooling fan let's just set it to oh there it goes cut on all by itself at fifty percent we can also try a hundred percent as you can probably hear it works just fine so that's great now we can turn that off terrific so i think what i need to do is possibly just a little bit of calibration at this point i want to actually do that pid tuning which i showed you during setup run that through its process see how that works and then i think i'm going to try a test print and see how it does on this printer i've got a couple of test prints that i've used here before and i will take a look and see how it looks when we're done okay so all of my test prints are done let's take a look at what i have here so first of all i did a couple of benches one at 50 millimeters per second and one at 100 millimeters per second the 50 millimeter per second looks really good particularly on the bow of the ship and around the hull everything looks real clean looking at the cabin of the benchy what i think i'm seeing here is a little bit of under extrusion and you may see that a little bit on each of these prints just because i didn't quite finish tweaking the calibration before i did all of these test prints that's on me but overall it looks really good this is a fine benchy looking at the 100 millimeter per second benchy definitely faster but we have a faster processor so i wanted to see really what the printer could do without any additional modifications again this one looks pretty good there's definitely some artifacts on the whole that you can see and there's quite a bit of artifacts on the actual cabin again it looks like mainly under extrusion going a little bit too fast probably with the retractions as well 2b going this fast you're moving too quickly for the filament to actually catch up but 400 millimeter per second print it actually looks a lot better than other ones i've seen so then i moved over to the batman that i usually print for a lot of my test prints if you haven't seen this one before or to refresh your memory i use the batman print because it's a very complicated print in terms of complex curves and with the usual cure settings that means that there is a lot of g-code here in order to pump these out as fast as i ask it to so you'll notice here i have green batman and i have gray batman the green ones are from the large board while the gray ones are from my previously installed skrv 1.4 turbo and i wanted something here for comparison so we see how the lurch did versus like one of the previous skr boards i had installed so first of all again 50 millimeters per second and 100 millimeters per second looking at the 50 millimeters per second time wise they took almost identical amounts of time to print i've got five hours and 25 minutes and five hours and 27 minutes looking at the quality of these they're pretty much indistinguishable from one another i don't really notice that one of these is particularly better or particularly worse they each have kind of their own issues just a little bit of under extrusion on the front of the cape on the green one but other than that i really don't see any major flaws there's definitely no problem with the processor keeping up on either one of these running at only 50 millimeters per second looking at the hundred millimeters per second prints on both of these oddly enough the skr did finish just a little bit quicker than the lurge but given the amount of time we're talking here it wasn't a whole lot you're talking about about 12 minutes faster for a four hour print looking at the quality of these now this is at 100 millis per second you're really going to see what i'm talking about in terms of the amount of processing power that printing this amount of g-code takes particularly at a high rate of speed and actually the large i believe did a little bit better this this might be a judgment call but i noticed that there are less issues on the lurch than on the skr the skr has very pronounced pauses where you will see big bulges in the back of the cape while the lurch did a much better job of smoothing out the issues that it had pumping out that g-code so you'll see that the layer consistency is not quite as good as you saw on the 50 mm per second but other than that it's just not as pronounced of a problem as you see on the skr running marlin they both pretty much have the same issues in the same area again the lurge just smooths it out a lot better so that's one for the lurge from here i wanted to print something that's just a tough print something that has a lot of different topology something that i could just see how well it would print and i chose this sleeping stegosaurus from chaos cortec and this is available on things.com and this is just an absolutely beautiful print they just their ability to sculpt these living things is just absolutely amazing to me but i digress this print turned out absolutely perfect this was printed at 50 millimeters per second and i really don't see any flaws to this print at all the only thing i really notice is at the very tips of the spikes on the tail there are some issues but i think that that's more of a slicing issue and maybe a model issue than an actual printer issue because you don't see any other issue similar to that anywhere else on the print this one is very very clean and it's a beautiful print so then i wanted to test out octoprint i want to know i did install a usb plug in here so can i print octoprint to this printer i found out that printing something very simple something like a cube which has very minimal g code to it because again it tells it to go this way turn the corner go that way turn the corner there's of course some you know cornering around the letters on this xyz cube but overall the print is beautiful the wall consistency is absolutely terrific and there's pretty much no ghosting on here that i can see maybe very minimal but i really think you're you're looking for it at that point but this one turned out really good then i went to print another stegosaurus and what i found on this print was a lot of issues keeping up with the flow of g-code on something that's complicated now keep in mind i'm going to show you this side by side and what you'll notice is that much like the batman printing at 100 millimeters per second you see that there's just a lot of really unclean extrusions on here where the extrusions just aren't able to continue on make the line like you'd want it to and you see a lot of bulging of filament in some places now they're very small bulges but compared to the clean one you can definitely tell a difference and it really doesn't seem like the serial communication over usb is really optimized to keep up with the g-code sent from octoprint and just to verify that it probably is a curve problem i also printed this little omnom and again saw the same sort of things where i do get just some inconsistencies that you wouldn't see on a clean print same sort of deal here so that seems to be something lurch really needs to work on in order to make it octoprint compatible and one thing i also noticed is if you leave on the sound on the display the beeps on the display that every time it receives a g-code command it wants to beep that's obviously not very useful i don't know why you would want that feature there i guess if you were communicating like with the keyboard over usb to the printer you'd like to know that it received your commands but once i go in octoprint mode i don't want that and in order to even be able to print i had to turn that function off otherwise it was even slower than it was with the sound off so just keep in mind that if you are going to try to print over octoprint that you probably should turn off that beeping but then again i don't think that'll take you very long to figure out now let's wrap up this video with my full conclusion and my overall thoughts of the lurch system so before i get into the conclusion i want to take a minute and ask have you subscribed to this channel if not now would be a great time to do that i find from my statistic that over 80 percent of the people that watch my videos still have not subscribed to this channel keep in mind that subscriptions let other people know that there are a lot of you that want to see my content want to see more content so if you want to continue to see stuff like this on this channel please subscribe let others know that you're enjoying the content on this channel and i really appreciate it now let's get into the conclusion first of all what are my overall impressions of this board display driver system that they provide well first of all i find it to be a very well designed system the hardware all works well together the display works with the main board and the drivers just come plugged in and they work i had no problems getting this plugged in and getting it working on the first try minus a little bit of issue with some of the documentation and so i had to read that as i went through a couple of assumptions that i had made were not correct but maybe that's on me rather than their documentation so as i noted earlier in this video i do want to mention uart for a minute now if you're unfamiliar with uart uart is a way that we can control certain features of the stepper drivers i had assumed that since uart was a feature of this board and a feature of the steppers that that would be the default mode that the board would come in and the steppers would come in well unfortunately i found out that's not the case and so everything you've seen here are the steppers in standalone mode now there's nothing really wrong with that but all of those settings that i showed you for the tmc2209s they weren't really doing anything because the uart communication wasn't turned on so in a future video i would like to show you how to convert those stepper drivers and the board to uart mode so that those trinamic settings will actually take effect i do think that that's a bit short-sighted on lurge's part that should be how the board and the drivers come because obviously it's already built into the firmware why wouldn't it come that way i did find the display particularly nice on this unit it's very clear it's very responsive the only issues i had with it were really that some of the ui was a bit close together for my fingers and i did find that i was needing to use the stylus or the jog wheel a bit on this display so i actually do highly recommend that you install the jog wheel i found that in certain screens it was really helpful particularly like the file select screen it was really nice to have that feature now everything you can do of course with the touch display using the stylus or your fingers but again ease of use is what we're going for here it was nice to have some options one other thing i wanted to mention is you can also play with the color settings on this display which i really enjoyed because you'll notice i like to sort of color code my printers here and so i can have a yellow display with my yellow plastic which is kind of a neat feature one thing i also wanted to mention was that you will not be able to use other displays from other manufacturers with this board because it uses a different connector than what you will typically find on 3d printer displays it doesn't use the db10 pin it also doesn't use the serial connectivity which you can find on other displays so you'll need to buy this display from lurge or at least do enough research to figure out which bus they're using to communicate with that display so the other big selling component for this board display package is obviously the software so what did i think about actually using the software so first of all the first thing i did on it was to upgrade the firmware i did find the firmware upgrade process really painless i had no issues and it's really nice that you can also save your config file off to some of your removable storage so that if something happens during the upgrade process you can restore that config and as i'm going to talk about here in a minute you can also share your config with others now the big selling point of this software is that you can configure it on the fly and you don't have to ever recompile your own software which to a lot of people is a big deal and i realize that compiling marlin figuring out all the settings reiterating on that until you get the right settings is not for everyone and it can be a royal pain and i can say that beyond a little bit of cryptic settings in here which i was able to figure out by reading the documentation enough that overall this was a very easy way to configure a printer and as i found something that wasn't quite set up the way i wanted it to a speed that wasn't correct maybe i didn't set up the triggering on my end stops correctly that was easy to fix i could just go into the display change that one setting and try again it was really convenient and as i do upgrades on this printer it will also be very convenient because if i were to change out a screw which changed the stepping size i just go into the display and change it without ever recompiling it same thing with different dimensions if i were to change the height width anything like that on a printer as i was doing upgrades be really easy to change the settings and just keep on printing which is something that you definitely can't do with marlin today now the usb and wi-fi modules are excellent add-ons for this main board now obviously i mentioned earlier octoprint didn't work as well as i'd like for it to and i won't be using octoprint with this board until i get a firmware in which it works the way it should now that doesn't mean the usb is useless obviously because i can still use it to connect to my laptop and send commands to the printer manually which is nice to have sometimes now i really didn't get to get into the wi-fi module in this video i did show its installation but i'm going to have to save that for the future but i did see that the wi-fi configuration was right on the display so it looks like it's very easy to set up but in a future video i'll take a look at their lurch control software which will allow me to control the printer remotely and i'll see how that works looking at the total cost for this upgrade i found that it was pretty much in line with the closest competitor at least in terms of feature set which is the skr pro they were almost the same price but once you took into account the price of the steppers and the price of the display the lurge did come in cheaper than the skr pro and keep in mind it did actually have a feature advantage over the skr pro also so i think that this is a terrific value given the competition so as i wrap up here first thing i want to mention is that lurge provided the upgrade hardware that you saw in this review today the hardware was provided for review purposes and no money exchanged hands now if you're looking to get this upgrade package for yourself i want to provide a link in the description that will take you directly to their store where you can buy a package very similar to what i showed today and in fact in the drop drop-down menus and everything on that site you'll be able to customize it specific to the components that you want so go take a look also take a look at all of the different components that they offer for 3d printers because there is a lot of upgrade parts some i've even gone and bought myself after i started browsing their store a bit so go take a look at that now if you want to perform the upgrade that you saw me perform here today i will of course provide all of the models that i created for this upgrade and you can find those on things.com which is where i'm going to exclusively put the parts that you saw here today now if you have a different printer or if you want a different solution head over to lurge's website where you can find many of the community community-provided 3d models for various upgrades on various machines and just some generic ones that you could use on any machine that has these extrusions on it and if you're upgrading an ender 5 plus i will also be providing my config file that will get you a running start on this just load up that config file and you will be ready to go with the same settings that i'm running today now there were a lot of other topics i could have covered in this video today that i just didn't have time to get to so if you are interested in me covering other topics such as their wi-fi module the lurch control software if you want to see me put marlin on this board if you want to see me test out their lighting controls any of those different topics or anything that i didn't quite cover enough for you please leave me a comment down below and i will take a look at all of those because i would really like to do a follow-up video that kind of gets those odds and ends together that i wasn't able to cover today now to wrap up this video i'm going to step a little bit this way and mention all of my terrific patreon supporters who really keep this channel moving these are the real heroes of the channel they keep the channel running month to month they help me buy new cameras new equipment for the live streams if there's a printer or a piece of hardware that you wanted to see that the manufacturer wasn't able to provide that's where a lot of that comes from so thanks to all of these folks that help keep the channel going and obviously if you want to help out this channel there's patreon links there's paypal links down in the description that really help out and i really appreciate it thanks for watching thanks for liking thanks for commenting all the stuff that helps out the youtube algorithm it really helps me out and helps keep the channel growing thank you very much for joining me here today i am chris and this has been kersey fabrications i'll see you next time you

Channel: Kersey Fabrications

Views: 23,757

Keywords: 3d print, 3d printer, 3d printer board, 3d printer board upgrade, 3d printer mainboard, 3d printer mainboard upgrade, 3d printing, Creality Ender 5 Plus, Ender 5 Plus, ender 5 plus upgrades, kersey fabrications, lerdge, lerdge 3d, lerdge k, lerdge k board, lerdge k board review, lerdge k firmware, lerdge k manual, lerdge k marlin, lerdge k review, lerdge k schematic, lerdge k wiring, touch screen

Id: 4YXI6xjkHpo

Length: 78min 28sec (4708 seconds)

Published: Fri Feb 12 2021