Creality Ender 5 Plus: Build and Preview

so as you can tell I have a very large box on the table and if you're really observant you'll notice what's in that box but let's let's go back a little ways to one of my very first videos on this channel my indoor v review and let's take a look at what I had to say the real shortcoming in this printer is that I want a bigger build volume I want one of these at 300 by 300 or even 400 by 400 so I can print high-quality helmets or other props hopefully criolla will see this review and start working on it so that's what I had to say on the end of five back when I did that review and what's on the table here today a much bigger under five and I get to take a look at it and tell you what I think so let's get this under five out of the box and put it together and see how it works right here on Kersey fabrications let's go [Music] so to say that I'm excited about this review would be a understatement this is a printer I have been looking forward to getting way before of course it even existed in the minds of crowd probably and as I said I mentioned it in my review of it right after the initial ender five came out so I'm excited about this and I'm looking forward to getting this out of this box and as you can see my studio here required a little bit of moving around even to get this in the frame this is a very large package this is a very new unit I don't even have specs on it at this point I asked them to send me specs no specs yet so this is Chris from the future and I wanted to give you a little bit of context as to why I'm trying to guess specs in this video and stuff like that so first thing you should know I've had this printer for a couple of weeks now they sent it to me as a beta test so that I could give them some feedback on what I thought about the printer before it was released of course with that came permission to film what I was working on and then post a video once the official announcement had been made so now of course all the specs are out there and so if you want to go to the product page you can look those specs up the product page you can find in the description of this video so as you see me guessing specs so that I've inserted a couple of funny moments where I guess correctly and you'll see where that is but I hope you enjoy this video I will have more later oh and one more thing if you have come here for a particular part of this video say you didn't come here for the assembly and everything like that I haven't sorted time codes in the description because I want you to stick around and actually catch the parts of the video that you came here to see so check out the time codes in the description click over to what you want to see and I appreciate you watching and so I get to find those out as I pull it out of this box and as I pull it together and I honestly don't think my workbench is going to be big enough here so at some point we're gonna have to move things around and and we have to come up with a clever solution to actually get this all on this table but first things first this is a single camera shot for this assembly the printer is too big and I honestly I don't have a second camera that can do this justice so we're gonna do it from this angle I hope you catch everything first things first well packaged in their high-density foam pull that out all right so first things we see we have a very large print bed and we have a beautiful pre-printed manual that includes all of the construction and everything so first things first again like I said I didn't receive any specs to this printer so let me go get the tape measure and let's figure out how big this thing is all right tape measure acquired and I'm having to duck here again trying to get most of the printer in the frame what do we got here so I am looking at 380 by 370 no no let's try that over time if we do this that's 370 by 380 interesting dimensions probably means a 350 by 350 build volume or build area we're not to the depth yet okay let's put our instructions out put those aside and let's see how do we want to work with this so here is the entire build plate assembly it's nice take a look at the bottom you look at the bottom here we have our leveling screws which are already applied has a nice aluminum or aluminium based insulation on the bottom has foam insulation and then the aluminum on the bottom it's got this entire mount is actually framed with aluminum so it's a very sturdy mount as you tell this is going to be a dual Z rails on here we have our connectors for our heating bed which these are some beefy wires we've got probably these 14 or 16 gauge wires I don't see it on here and we have a nice a mass connector on here it's an XT 90 looks like one of the official ones and of course our thermistor I'm gonna carefully set this aside down here behind the table it's gonna be one of the later part so we don't need that yet have an accessory box in the accessory box we're going to have tools and zip ties and USB drives [Music] everything we're gonna need to put this together including our filament holder actually having a nice American plug here as well as a spatula we'll come back to that later when we need to put this together and we'll set that aside pull out some more this packing foam one of the classic cloudy which is way more than I've been getting with other film other printer manufacturers their usual white to mini school it's not zip still excuse me it's not vacuum sealed anymore but I'm not really concerned what else do we have this is nice you tell that it has been cut appropriately to hold all of the Z screws in the correct safe shipping position so that we don't have any bent Z screws we have a stack of extrusions this is going to be for all intents and purposes this should be our Z height and we are looking at quite probably this is about 51 centimeters so we might actually have almost it's probably gonna be a 400 450 maybe even a 500 millimeter Z height but we'll find out when we get more into the firmware and such let's see what we've got so yes very familiar it looks much like the end of fives looks like the end of 5 stop and as you'll notice they went with a very similar design I have the same hot end here as on the other printer it has the same cooling as the other printer comes with a silicon sock which you can't see but this one also comes with a BL touch for Auto leveling since it is such a large bed which many people will be super happy it is an authentic VL touch it's written on the side and yeah that's nice what else can we see from this it looks like I have a little bit of like this is a bit bent for that flips right back this all gets straightened up when we put on the Z access my belts are nice and tight here the end stop is 3d printed this may be a pre-production thing though either way it doesn't really matter it's just a cover for the install just to keep it from getting damaged in any way looking at the other side here we again much like the end of five we have the single stepper motor with the dual rods coming out of it for the driving of the y axis and here's our extruder underneath the bottom and it looks like it actually has a filament sensor on it this time we'll find out more about that later and standard quality extruder probably going to need to be replaced I'm not a big fan of these plastic ones but this one this one feels good you know this particular one is not too weak it doesn't look like it's going to flex a lot on me so that's really nice see what else we can find in here here is one of these z rails again this is upside down by the way because the motor should be on the bottom but we are looking at probably a 400 height the screw gives us about 450 you're not going to be able to actually go the full 450 so it's probably a 350 by 350 by 400 is my guess on this this is a dual z rail so that's what we have here is the other one dual Z's and yet another layer of this cake is removed and we are finally to the base now for this base as you can probably tell or maybe not this table is not as big as this printer this table is about 500 millimeters and the base is 550 or so give or take a little bit so after I pull this out I'm gonna need a place to put it here is the end or five base the end of five plus base we have any very large electronics enclosure we have a large LCD display see large fan for the power supply it is set for 2:30 I'm going to change that before I forget it later I'm going to change that to 1:15 that's done I always do that first on a printer saves you a lot of time later got a parts cooling fan all of the electronics are here the SD card a micro SD card is in a convenient location right see if I turn this around right up here in the front along with our micro USB connection so and here are all the wires that we would expect let's pull this out for a minute so I think that is it for the box if I find that I'm missing anything I have some old 3d printed clamp Clips here that look like they're for cable management but since there's already printed I don't think they quite made it but let's put this off to the side hmm we have a place for this give me a minute well that happens nothing okay so we've got that 550 base you have a 550 piece of wood hold it alright so board this should do it that doesn't move you got a place to work let's pick the printer back up you're there I still can't completely see it but I don't want to cut my head off out of frame the whole time either so there we go eyes again there is what you're missing how does it look again we have some of these like I said what I think they're just cable management clamps and they are 3d printed and they're deforming a bit so probably can find the model for that and print some more or quickly design one for myself and reprint it not a big deal looks really good still has the protective cover on the touchscreen which I'm going to leave on for now particularly while I'm still building it let's take a look at the guide book usual warnings contents preface thank you for choosing our products no problem and there's instructions and videos on the TF card in case we need them in case I need to get my laptop and it tells me about all the parts Jeannot a list of everything which you should be able to find in the box and then we have assembly so I'm going to get out my parts out of the brown box all right so let's pull everything out of this box and this is our tools bag we have our snips which might come in handy have tie-wraps in these beautiful black color have our nozzle cleaner which I'll probably put back in the bag and then we have various tools that they include two separate wrenches it looks like five hex keys and a small screwdriver have our USB Drive which we may need if these instructions aren't sufficient and usually are though also in here we have our power cable which I already have one down here so I'm not going to need right now we have our filament spool holder which I'll go and pull out I'm going to leave in the USB cable which it comes with and these are components that we're going to need as well this back down underneath what's in the bag in five twenty five and five thirty s comes with a guarantee in a bag as you can go back in the box also and [Applause] filament holder nut we have four by ten millimeter screws and they have some lock washers in there and we have these are going to be our spare parts it comes with a extra nozzle it comes with extra hose clamps which are really nice that hold on your fittings hold your fittings tight and it comes with one extra fitting so we'll put those away as well okay we have all of our wiring out of the way and step one we have the twenty forty profiles which will need those off to the side see are these symmetrical these are not symmetrical remember I made this mistake in the last video both ends I believe are tapped but in one end we have extra screw holes on both sides and the other end we do not and line all these up or they match and then I won't forget I hope they go all four of those do appear to be the same otherwise okay they are showing that the hole goes in the top which is what I expect keep the front bottom facing you and then I'm going to take em five by twenty fives which also have lock washers on them I think these are low quality I'm going to need eight of these with the washers on them yeah these are really nice screws they have a very nice glossy paint job on them now that seems silly to say but it did stand out to me that these were there it really well painted or I'm guessing anodized those paint Lee would gunk it up so and I have 16 of those just the right number for the build okay and we are just going to assemble these through the bottom I need to find the right size key to assemble this okay it's the largest of the keys and then I'm going to carefully put this together and keeping the one with the holes at the top I have to admit while I'm down here I would love to see what's in this case okay last one notice I left this top center one as the last one so that it would not fall down while I was trying to get to it I don't know what to expect when I get in here I'm carefully gonna pull this back okay interesting so you do this and plug here and then I put this aside while we take a look so nice big LCD controller interesting because we have the SD card slot here on the mainboard there's also a hidden one here underneath and this is AK reality board v 2.2 there's actually an extra connector to have a second extruder although obviously that's not populated they actually have a separate mosfet that they use to heat the bad because the the size of the bed they've got this DC mosfet on here similar what you've seen on other printers and let me see what else do I see I can't tell you anything at this point about the stepper drivers they are under heat sinks and without even testing this board I am NOT going to pull those off yet because I want to make sure that I don't damage anything particularly without me noticing so let's leave that where it is we'll obviously be able to tell if these are silent steppers we'll be able to tell due to the fact that it will be silent and if they're not then they are going to be you know the DRV drivers that we're familiar with or they'll be the a 4988 drivers so sit for what's in here oh and this is a Chang Lang our supply which we which I've actually seen in other printers lately and this is a 500 watt 24 volt power supply so it has a nice beefy power supply to support that bigger bed put the fan back in where we got it and button this up what's next next up we're going to put the top on we're going to need some m5 25s which are the ones we already have out frame top framing 525 any eight of those go put this on top and then there's going to be one in each top and then one in the side and hopefully that will square it my frame a little bit now obviously this is going to go down but I have to figure out which way it goes not that way so that's the back just like it was on the other end or side okay don't think that's going to fall off now that it's on there the first one I'm going to put on on each of these is the top one you're going to screw all four down number one so that you don't have any chance of it falling number two so that we don't tighten any of these down yet until they're all squared that I mentioned this printer is big because it is using my full reach here to get to the back of this printer it's quite the Beast no tighten down these sides the belts came really nicely tightened and they're right in the extrusions this one's above the extrusion down here if it's right between the extrusions with no problems okay all those are tightened and can't really trust my board to here to be level since I've had to clamp it to my table and I haven't clamped it on all four corners but it feels very stable again almost everything I'm here well let's you know the uprights the sides are all 2040s the base are 2020s with what appears to be those plastic brackets it's hard for me to tell there's not having to hold them now they look like plastic these are plastic brackets and all four of the corners that's moving pretty well put that out of the way it's really moving well this one may as well no binding or anything so why they sent it to me seems to work well the L touch tip looks a little bent and get some pliers to those before we get started it may work the way it is it me don't like it I don't know if that happened pre or post shipping I may not mess with it too much because that's thing I want to do is break it but it does go all the way up and down and that's just not super straight now we are going to put the Z's on so the XS are going to be the m5 30s just the next bag we have each of these also already have a washer on it and the Z's are going to go on the side motor should go on the bottom be careful make sure I don't hit anything and they should be able to go in here they do already have the holes pre-drilled so I haven't talked a lot about the new features we will get to that obviously but for those worried about the original ender 5s cantered lever design this takes care of that because we have dual Z's now so the entire bed will be supported both the left and the right as it raises and lowers the bed move this over get it out of our way you ready and as we learned on the other side we'll push this all the way against that's okay we have both sides the left and right attached so let's see if this still moves and it does and it hits the in stop just fine no problem there it also is moving fine I can feel the wheels moving which means it's not just sliding same thing here and here here so this one could be tightened a bit because I actually have one wheel that when this moves the will is not moving this one right here is how you can tell if your things are properly tightened if it moves easily but all the wheels move there we go just took a little bit of adjustment but it's good okay we are on to frame assembly part four this is let's see make sure the front the base is facing me place the hotbed on the support plate of the z-axis frame and align with the profile holes on it using for info by tens connect the hotbed to the support plate on the Z access frame make sure the hotbed is flat and all six screws are securely fastened let's try this again should have to go in I'm going to have to go in from the top still down so either this these screws on this part are either a little bigger than they should be or this hex Keys a little smaller than it should be it's not tightening them quite as good as it should so I'm going to come behind it here in a minute with my own screwdriver and see if I can tighten it a little bit better okay okay now they're still gonna have to be left and right leveling here because nothing forces it to be level they're gonna stay relatively close to each other just due to the metal holding it together but that will have to be leveled left to right at some point could take it all the way down maybe there's some sort of auto leveling we do have the auto bed level we'll have to see what they've built into the printer okay so there's a lot of words that basically describe that we need to assemble this filament hold it spool holder and this is the standard quality spools I'm going to take this in here looks like they've got it on the inside okay so we can take it on the inside and then this snaps on and just sort of hand tightens and that's fine and then they're showing so the printer is so big now that we can actually do our filament inside they are showing to put it right here which makes perfect sense because our filament sensor and extruder are right there yep school holder in place and now it is wiring time all they show pretty much is match up your letters and colors make sure we select the correct voltage is actually on here that we should sort select the correct voltage so that's nice let's go ahead and do all the wiring look you know remember first video this was in Chinese it is not in Chinese this time so I can read it this is fun too and it matches the same colors so we're gonna soon that's right we have red and black here which they have labeled as fun one alrighty well so we have here no this is our BL touch fun fun oh fun I guess it's been Macy does it's a fan or fun it's that's fun so apparently fans are fun because the BL touch has its own connector there we go so all of those connectors are here together now the rest of these are going to go to different parts of the printer this is II use the extruder so II goes here that's to the extruder motor let's say this is z1 excited z1 doesn't matter nope it does not matter they're both just labeled Z this is pretty short I'm going to take the short one beside I feel this closer okay we'll come back to the rent one this is Z two definitely longer take it underneath the bottom here so that way sure that we're not catching anything that goes in without any problems let's keep going with the ribbons so why let's see if we can get this in our connector now and now that fits no big deal ok and this is gonna be our Y end stop which is right here ok and last is going to be our X which is don't exactly know how they want us to run it last time on the other printer it was run this way so the X is right here and then the N stop is right here and that should take care of the X let's see if they concluding thing and we have one more here which is for the AA or the filament sensor so we're gonna put that right there cuz that's the last thing missing a plug of any sort go back around look at the manual the next steps are going to be turning on checking out the screen we're going to load some filament I'm going to do the leveling first probably and then I think as it's describing here we're going to do auxilary leveling first we're gonna get the bed level and then after that it has Auto leveling which is what we're going to use the BL touch for has software installation which is a Cree allottee slicer which I found on the small little CI 100 that we tested didn't work on my kids Windows 7 bucks then I was I can try this one on Windows 10 see how it works has a nice circuit diagram for the wiring she basically shows off what I saw inside and that is it oh this printer is assembled I'm going to go ahead I'm going to flip it around here we'll plug it in see if it smokes so one thing I haven't done has done any cable management before we do any printing cable management has to be done so that we don't catch on anything there's no description I saw in here about cable management there may be something on the drive but I think I got this I'm going to go around back here see if we can tidy everything up so here's what I did for minimal cable management izip tied this loom up there near the top to keep it moving with the X gantry didn't do anything else around this part at this point on the upper left here I used a zip tie to get all of these wires out of the way when I'm done I can of course attach more depth eyes there to make that look nicer and then finally the last part here is for the filament run-out sensor I ran that up and over to the right and put a zip tie there did not mention the bobbin tube I don't think I saw it in there that needs to be attached so I'm going to plug that in here and as I mentioned it did come with the Bowden tube I want to just keep switching around how to say that the Bowden tube but little connectors so I'm going to grab one of those I'm going to snap on that so it doesn't come out these are the only thing that's moving in this printer that and the Z that we're good okay let's now take a look at turning this on power switch right here in the front we hear the BL touch moving and ER v + logo comes up Cree ality logo actually loading it's probably loading all the menu items on this display and now we have a menu okay so here's the user interface on the printer it has a print which probably just goes directly to accessing the SD card compress that that's exactly what it does there's a temp which allows us to do automatic temp settings for the PLA we have manual temperature control which allows us to set the temperature or turn on cool we have just cooling which will do a cool-down and we have fan off or fan on as you can see here alright so lastly we have settings which has our leveling menu our refuel menu which is our filament change menu we have movement motor disabling language settings and printer info printer and photo tells us the model from where revision prints I so we do our official print size which is 350 by 350 by 400 and there's a company linked to the Chinese website so next up we are going to do the bed leveling which is going to do an auto home and that auto home is using the BL Tet excuse me it's using the BL touch for its homing alright so after we've done the leveling it shows us our measure which is really nice so there's an auto leveling here as well as a measured bed leveling which is what we're actually going to do first so that we make sure that our bed is physically level before we do the mesh bed leveling which will account for any unreal excuse me it will account for any irregularities that there are in the actual build surface given the size of the print bed so one thing I'm going to do right here to make bed leveling more to make it easier and possibly more accurate is I want both sides of the bed to be square with one another so to do that and I should only have to do this once this should not get out of alignment once I've done it once at least I hope not so what I'm going to do I've got a small ruler here and I'm going to come in here and I'm going to measure that this side in this side are the same distance on the ends so I'm going to put this here and go and I move I screw to where for me I'm gonna do it three centimeters and I'm going to get as close as I can it doesn't have to be super precise but the closer I can get it the easier bed leveling is going to be all right so three centimeters on both sides now I know at least that my left and my right are as level as possible so to level this bed properly we need it to be up to temp so what I'm going to do I'm going to do a manual heat up I'm gonna set this it's a really nice interface here I can actually type in the tip instead of having to do up and down it so I'm going to do 200 not to 2200 on the hot end I'm going to do 60 on the bed okay that will now eat up I can actually watch that happen okay so we're about up to temp now so while this is finishing up we're at 198 and 52 I'm gonna go back I'm going to go back again I'm going to go to settings leveling that's going to cause this to auto level or excuse me it's gonna cause it to home now that that's up to temp we need to make sure that our Z offset is correct between the BL touch and the tip we're close but not really there so I'm gonna have to - the Z offset to go up and that's a little too tight go up one more that's pretty good alright so we're going to call that our Z offset now we're going to do what's called aux leveling to get the corners accurate it's gonna home again and this is the manual bed leveling you do on any other printer what's great is this printer is using both it gives us the manual first which is going to get our bed physically level and then we have the automatic leveling which will take care of any discrepancies in such a large build plate okay so I'm going to go to this front one first okay that is way too tight I need to turn it until we are loose again luckily this is a glass build plate which should keep us from damaging anything I'm gonna get it or I like it okay we're gonna go to three still making sure I'm not touching the bed I'm gonna go back to the back corner this one's too loose I'm gonna tighten it by turning it to the right and that's good and we're gonna go back to the final one also loose so to the right to tighten it up okay and let's go back to the first one I always like to go around twice because the whole bed is going to change geometry as you level each corner okay now to make sure it's right let's try to go back to one which is the center and see if that's level that's pretty good so now that we're done with that we're going to go back now we can use the measured Bell doubling and what this is going to do is it's going to go to sixteen different points on the bed using the BL touch to find out what the offset is from what it thinks is level and what it does is it creates a mesh that you can actually see on the screen and that mesh is how it determines where it needs to make minor adjustments in the layers one thing I'm noticing even on this beta unit excuse me this is a beta unit I don't believe they have their BL touch offsets to the left and right quite set correctly because it seems to be leveling more on the left than it is the right so it should be compensating for how far it is away from the printhead it doesn't appear to be doing that because it's measuring way closer to this edge and not this edge seeing how far this Bale touch it's a good distance from this edge where when it's over here it's a lot closer means that the mesh isn't going to be exactly right from where that thinks it is okay so since it's exceeded we should be able to tell that our bed is relatively level if we look at our offsets we do know that it is a bit higher on this corner than this corner and it is a bit bulgy in the middle but by you know point one millimeters so perfectly except for I'm going to turn auto love on then I'm go back okay and then at this point I think we're ready for a test print which is what I've been waiting on alright so what do we have first of all we need to get our sample filament we'll start with that filament goes here you're not going to be able to see all of this but it's fairly standard I'm going to go up through the filament sensor and when the filament is in it's actually got a click to it so there is actually a switch in here detecting this the light comes on things you to light and then we go straight up into our extruder and then once we're in there we should be able to use the refuel button and say feed and it is feeding ever so slowly so that's not working so I love all these auto load auto unload it sometimes really helpful but most the time you can do it faster yourself hmm that came out easy no problems there okay so that was easier believe it's sticking well that's a good time that we've got it good and clean then we have the USB drive that it came with pull out the SD card this is an 8 gigabyte SD card pop it into the side it goes contacts excuse me he goes contacts up I believe yes contacts up and go back let's go back to the main menu we'll say print that's not finding anything on there alright so now I need to go to the computer see if there's anything in the root directory cuz it is not finding it one second alright so there definitely wasn't any pre-sliced g-code on the SD card so I found one of their models it was a monkey cup that was already on the SD card and what I did is I opened up cure or whether they're installing theirs I like Curacao I opened up cura I installed this is cure for two one I added a endure five profile and then change the dimensions of the bed to 350 by 350z height 400 and then I sliced this so it should print this in the middle let's see how it does in contacts up let's see if it finds it this time go to print yep so this one is ce-5 monkey I'm going to select it and I'm going to say print Brett yep there it goes it's going straight away we have some filament still on here that was me extruding earlier let's see how it does well apparently as part of its this must be built into its profile to go and do a real evalee time because I did not have a g29 in my G code so I don't really mind the real Evelyn it's a bit unnecessary because it's not going to deform that much differently between each print but at least this way I guess you can guarantee that it's level per heat-up it just takes a little bit longer to get started we're going to do a priming line on that side of the bed which is good just kind of drag it with it all right looking pretty good other than this the filament here that's going to get in the way it looks like we're not really close enough might be better off with the law Auto leveling off until they fix their BL touch offsets let's try this again we're gonna go back back print now that I've turned off Auto bed leveling see if it saves us some headache okay it's gonna print that climbing so they did do what it said and turn off a bed lovely so I didn't do it anymore and a couple of swipes to prime the nozzle and that's gonna print my bed leveling was good to begin with we still won't need this BL touch and the looks like I am still better off without the bed love one which doesn't surprise me it is a big piece of glass it is going to be mostly leveled and have to do a big test later to find out like how level it is but it's looking good this is pretty better than with Auto leveling turned on right away I think it's worth noting that definitely not 22:08 steppers I am guessing by the sound of it it is a 4988 a lot of power in those drivers but not a lot of quiet I think that's what I'm hearing definitely does it appear to be quiet steppers a little disappointing for a printer of this caliber not too and especially since we know that they have those on some of their other boards I think they could also retrofit them onto this board even though it's different but so far so good just to let you know I do believe I sliced this one at 80 millimeters per second that probably means that this is either printing at 20 or 40 depending on what the defaults were I changed no defaults inside the slicer left the temp at 200 the bed at 50 which is the cure defaults [Music] [Music] so this first test print finished on the ender five-plus and I have a monkey cup this is a test print though is available on the micro SD card that they sent over it was not pre-sliced so i use the latest cure of four-to-one on here and let's take a look hopefully it will focus in on this cup go around one time for you and then i'll give you my opinion so overall layers look extremely nice just from layer to layer it's supposed to look like a wicker basket and it kind of does inside you may see that there's some stringing on the inside here that is probably just not the best retraction settings from pura and i used the default cura profile that comes with 421 for the indoor five and just increase the bed size didn't do anything else that's where I got this from I just wanted to see kind of what the default settings would do a the only real thing that stands out there is them not the best consistency on some of the extrusion some of them look a little bit heavier than others the other part is some of these places like right in here it looks like there was some stringing also can't tell you if it was the slicer of the printer at this point going to blame the slicer initially haven't been super happy with cure 421 personally so the next prints I'm going to be doing I actually have gone back to my favorite slicer which is cura 3:6 and I've sliced those with cure 3:6 we'll see what the quality difference is on that not only that but this is the default filament that comes with this printer I'm also not familiar with the quality of this filament I will be switching to Zil tek filament for the rest of this one which I am familiar with this is the Uncle Jesse gotten better haha this is the Uncle Jesse gunmetal silver I will be printing with I'm going to be printing the test prints that I'm about to do as well as the large test print I'm about do all with this filament I can vouch for this filament this stuff works really well I bought several rolls of this to test this printer due to its large print volume and notice this filament looks really nice has a nice metallic color color and zil tech shifts these vacuum-pack just like they're supposed to be so let me get this all swapped over I'm going to load up the the calibration cubes that I've pre sliced to test on here and we'll get to printing [Music] all right so this print is done all of it printed to completion so let's take a look at what I've got here to come right off the glass and it does so first of all did have a lot of stringing this stringing is actually mostly caused by the fact that we had such a long travel from edge to edge and what happens is the filament even if it's retracted it will ooze this is not noise from it actually pulling away from it but actually coming to it because it's oozing by the time it gets here and that's what's causing this so if you're going to be traveling this far between parts on a print bed you definitely are gonna have to change your retraction make it a lot further so that using takes less time but this should come off fairly easily or at least for the most part the print quality is gorgeous this filament is printing beautifully on this printer that is a beautiful beautiful part and see the reflection on it and top layer looks really good all of my seams are closed in so really happy with the quality on this one so let's check this front left one check out the X direction almost perfect we're at nineteen ninety eight if we move it around a little bit there's twenty even try the Y we are at twenty fifteen twenty thirteen 2001 near the base so there's some bulging obviously on some of this because of that stringing let's try a little bit like this yeah so now we're up to a few thousandths we're like 1993 1894 and vertically we are at 2002 that really doesn't get any better out of the box that's that's actually more impressive than I was even expected back corner same quality here no real difference in the corner you see that reflection again on the Z a little separation in some of the top lines but not too bad so again X 1998 this is our Y direction we'll turn it around I got 2003 and the Z direction in 1897 1995 1999 that corner and I'm doing all of this calibration because the printbed is so massive I want to make sure that we are getting really nice even prints across the printbed the same quality that I was seeing on the other ones beautiful walls this is actually probably printing better than my indoor five did out of the box I mean the quality is just excellent bottom looks beautiful nice nice smooth finish Z this Z is probably even better than the back corner about the same as the front corner check these directions again 1996 on the X 20 1999 on the X Y 2002 and finally the Z 1997 1998 1997 one more same quality on this corner can't really tell them this side because of those wish that got tucked to it but the Y is beautiful I'm seeing I mean check this before maybe a single case of wringing on these but I mean I have to really look for it it's it's not pronounced and it's not wavy so X on this 20 even 1996 1995 Y 2008 and this is more difficult to do it this way 2006 2004 I'd have to sand these little zips off to really get an accurate measurement otherwise I'm possibly modifying the results when where the other 19 so maybe not quite as good in the y-direction as the other ones but again still within a few thousandths of a millimeter and in the Z so this must have been a higher corner because I am seeing a little bit of height difference in this one 1982 1984 1983 so what I'm going to do given that all of my other ones were good I'm going to check the center first and then if this one is still off if this is the only one off then I will just actually just lower that down a little bit so that it extrudes a little bit more let's grab the big model in the center let's take a look at the quality you see it's a really nice finish it is I see more differences so I'm looking at it from this kind of angle let's try to get that but from that kind of angle the lines that I'm seeing are actually from the extrusion differences it's probably going from different directions and not as much from the actual print quality same thing on the Y and there are a few here that I can see but overall it's really beautiful bottom looks good top again no gapping in my top layer so like I said really impressed with the quality better than I even expected let's check the dimensions on this now this should be a 40 by 40 by 40 cube so X on this one again this is harder to be dimensionally accurate because we are building it bigger so any errors are going to be magnified from these smaller cubes which is why I do a larger cube so at the top 39 76 on X 39 81 and 39 82 so about 39 80 on average which isn't bad for this ice cube so that's about what a we're talking point oh five difference or a five five percent difference now I don't know if it's that much well I'll do the math later maybe I'll put it on the screen here anyway so that's not bad given the size of the key let's do why this one's even better we got thirty nine ninety ish arms are getting tired here 4003 thirty nine eighty nine I'm off again sorry there you go on the Z thirty nine ninety four it's really good accuracy for such a large print 3984 3984 again so about the same accuracy across the printer between the quality and the accuracy out of the box I couldn't be happier even in large prints happy with this one it's time to switch to a larger print so let's get going on that and see what this printer really can do [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so it's all done here we have the Mandalorian helmet from the Mandalorian and this bill took 64 hours and 13 minutes so just shy of three days about two and a half days as you can see it looks beautiful - a little bit of overhang problems here that actually are setting problems not printer problems although some of this is caused by the same sort of cooling issues that you would see on any of the crowded printers since it uses the same hot end assembly with the cooler and everything so let's take a look at this since this printed on glass I'm not too worried about it since when it cools we'll get a contraction on the bed and that causes this usually to pop off so let's take a look-see will we get pop off without any need for look at there pop that's it this is why I use glass beds again this one was cleaned in the sink dish detergent hot water paper towels dry it with paper towels or let it drip dry but that's how you get it to stick like this anyway so let's take a look at this helmet this is again unmodified indoor five plus just the way it came to me this is a beautiful helmet the layer lines are just about gorgeous this was printed at 50 millimeters per second as the nominal speed and you'll notice every one of these layers is almost exactly where it's supposed to be obviously they're small variation but all of it is really really nice all of these surfaces take a look at that let's see what it takes to actually pull these supports up should we have to get it out oh yeah that's not too bad notice there is some stringing inside that is a combination of possibly being able to tweak the retraction settings and also like I said a little bit of cooling issue on this printer probably gonna replace the cooling got a video coming up on that by the way if I haven't already released it there is a video on cooling Kri ality printers there's a sports won't need those anymore and ports on the side of the helmet these come right off should pull off some other supports with it yes words are coming off really nice on the filament again this is the Zil tech Uncle Jesse gunmetal silver just thrown it on the floor because I don't care and and there'll be some more cleanup here but look how well this printed look how easily these supports come off again this is my indoor 5 profile that I have for my other inner 5 printers and it's just working beautifully to get all of these supports off on the back here you see where the sports came off the overhangs look really good where it was supported there is just a little bit of extra you know using or whatever where it was coming off for supports or where it was traveling first comes off really easily which means that if I take a knife to it or if I want to sand that down it's going to be even better on the inside a little bit of support let me get this cleaned up a little bit let's see if it fits my big head and we'll go from there so taking a look at the inside of this helmet let's see if we get the lights there we go notice it is pretty clean on the inside we do have some cooling I think related issues where we've got some you know stringing down here that's not so great that can be cleaned up luckily it's the inside of the bucket the outside again just looking amazing I have to admit this is better than an indoor five this is better than my indoor five was out of the box I wouldn't touch the motion system on this one you know you saw me add the rails to my under five the Center five pro will not be getting rails because if he keeps printing like this there's no need to mess with the motion system this is not clean and I'm going to get stuff all over my head to try this on but I have to try it on alright so that doesn't really fit but let's go to the next print I'm going to print something fast this printer is pretty really accurate at a moderate to slow speed so let's get it going about maybe 120 millimeters per second let's see how it does we're going to go with a model that doesn't have any overhangs or any need of supports so that we can really take a look at the quality we're going to leave the minimum layer time in place let's take a look [Music] okay so here I set up this test and this is our speed test you'll notice there's there's already been a layer shift right here and it's not super concerning at this point I haven't dialed in anything not to catch on here I didn't do z hop or anything so this is just a test print but I also set this test up with a small spool so that I could check out the filament run out sensor which you see here the filament has run out and the light has turned off and now we can turn down here and apparently it does tell us that we've run out yes to heat up and change the filament or no to stop so let's give this a shot we're gonna say yes man gonna change the filament click yes to continue or no to stopped print okay so it's gonna heat back up here so that we can change this so notice it gives us a nice little progress bar so that we can see how long it has before it's done heating it's gonna heat up back to what we had previously set it to which for this test was 220 all right since it's back up to temp it assumes now we can manually change the filament so let me set down the camera change out the filament and we'll check out the resume so this is a couple of sample spools from my maker box this is put push plastic PLA I'm gonna see if I can get this out now that it has stopped this mechanism definitely doesn't give you a lot of room to mess with the filament once it has stopped and see if we can get it out push up pull down well just enough room it could be a problem but if so you could always pull the tube out of the top now we should be able to reload our filament notice it move the head over here so we should be able to get a good clean pull before we tell it to resume okay that went in easily we got the filament flowing we now have green of course I didn't have to wait till it came out but that makes me feel better to know and I want it to actually be oozing there just a little bit I'm going to pull this off we don't want it to cool down too much so it's good to be watching when it runs out otherwise it could cool down and dislodge the print so we're gonna say yes now to continue and it's going to heat back up the hotbed because that was cooled down a little bit so luckily it did not cool down fully we don't have to worry about the print coming off the print bed they should pick up where it left off there we go fully back at temp and it's gonna pick up right where it left off without any problems so the limit run out sensor is a check what's interesting here also is that since it rehomed when it found that when it went the filament run out then we actually are correcting our layer shift right here so we're gonna have another layer shift but this one's intentional because it's basically starting back where it came from so let's let this one finish because I basically want to look at the quality at this speed as I mentioned when I did the filament change on this there was already some layers shifting going on and the Green did not help the green actually made it a little bit worse so let's give this off the bill play and I'll tell you what happened came right off as expected and what you'll see is so I was printing this really fast so this is printing at 120 millimeters per second not all filament can keep up with 120 millimeters per second whether it is not running hot enough or it just it just can't extrude that fast and so you'll notice even though this is the same brand of filament the green filament does not react the same way as the red does so let's take a look at the red because again we're looking at quality here we want to see what the printer can do so taking a look at this you notice the consistency again just out of the park on this every layer is exactly where it's supposed to be even though we were printing extremely fast on this if you see what happened on the green the green was not able to extrude fast enough so I either needed more heat possibly a bigger heating block on it something like that because that just wasn't going to extrude fast enough but the wet the right was beautiful this is a star layers a lot from printed solid looks great again the printer the only thing we can say that it didn't do well was we did have some layer shifts which means that there could be something possibly wrong just a little bit of tweaking possibly either to the slicer to make sure that we're not catching on the model or possibly to the printer maybe we're not getting quite enough power to one of the steppers so last print for this video let me straighten up here a bit and I'll give you my final thoughts so here we are at the end of the video and what I want to do here is just sort of sum up my thoughts and feelings on this printer and give you my final impressions given the amount of time I've had to spend with it and the test prints that you've seen me print keep in mind this hasn't been a review and it wasn't meant to be this is an assembly and preview video it's a new printer and I basically just wanted to get it out there in front of all of you so that you could basically see it actually work in the hands of someone else keep in mind they sent me a beta unit and so everything I'm saying about this printer possibly could change I don't really expect it to I know that they've already started shipping units as of publishing of this video so people other than me will start having these available very soon and can give you their impressions as well so first of all the print quality let's lead off with that because the print quality on this has really blown me away it exceeded what I expected keep in mind I'm an into five user the original ender five and I've spent a lot of time with that printer and this printer is definitely an upgrade so not only does it have a bigger build volume but it also prints better and whether it is the stability and the construction of the printer the dual z access the fact that both sides of the better supported who knows it's probably all of those but it's it's a better printer and I'm getting better quality out of it with that in mind I'd also like to point out one of the negatives of the printer and that is the sound this is a noisy printer Crowley chose to go with one of their existing main boards the 2.2 which is in some of their other higher-end printers but on that main board we have the a 4988 drivers and those are loud steppers and because they're loud steppers this is not something you're gonna want in a bedroom or in an office you're probably gonna have to put this in your basement or somewhere away from anywhere that people are trying to watch TV or sleep or anything like that it's a loud printer now keep in mind that something that's upgradable but for what could be a flagship printer it's kind of a disappointment that it didn't come with their one 1/4 board or a new variation of the 2.2 board that actually had the TMC stepper drivers that would have given us a silent printing experience back to a-plus I mentioned the size of this print bed now on the original end of five you couldn't print a full size helmet it would have had to being cut up into pieces that's pretty much a standard sized print read the 235 by 2 35 or the 220 by 220 actual print size and so you're gonna be slicing things up you're not gonna print your large model so obviously I love this printer for that reason I like that this printer does come with a glass print bed that was a great choice given the size of the print bed having glass immediately and not only that but having a thick piece of glass immediately gives you a flat surface to start with and in case there are you know discrepancies in such a large flat surface it does come with the BL touch so the BL touch will then you know compensate for any problems or are slight bends in your build surface on top of the manual leveling that you do now as you saw there are some firmware issues with the printer particularly related to the BL touch right now it's not really usable but I've let Cree ality know that and I do expect that they will come up with a firmware fix very soon and I will be happy to report back either in my community tab or maybe in a full review of this printer later on a couple of other things that Crowley could have improved on this printer first of all it would have been nice if it would have come with the Capricorn tubing I know they sell that in their store but you know why not include it as a default option it's a few bucks more even if they would have passed that on to the consumer I think that would have been worth it it would have saved us a step you know we were gonna buy it anyway so save us a step going include it with the printer also I think this default X gantry is getting a little old and what I mean by that is the extruder works fine I have no problem with with the way that it actually prints but we need some dual cooling on this printer if we're gonna print fast and if we're gonna print good overhangs we need better cooling so I think that Crowley should spend a little bit of time revamping this coming up with some dual cooling fan solutions and even if it an aftermarket product for us that already have these printers it'd be a really nice product to add to their lineup and it would fix them the overhang issues and some of the stringing issues that you saw in my test prints today and finally let's finish off on a high note keep in mind the electronics on this printer were really good so while I can complain about the the noise of the printer the electronics of the printer works really well the touchscreen was really good I like the design of it there's a few screens I might have changed here and there a little bit but overall it was a really pleasant user experience this touchscreen is very responsive and as you saw the motion of the printer is super smooth those 8:49 88's may be old but they really still do a really good job and the filament sensor worked great as you saw there's plenty of other things I still have to test on this printer so don't think this is my last word I do plan on following this up with a full view but I'm going to give this printer a little bit more use and I'm also going to give Crowley a little bit of time to address some of the issues that I found that I sent to them even before I publish this video and I think it's right that I give them a little time to maybe tweak the firmware see if they can work out some of those issues and then I'll get back to you and let you know how it's doing so if after all of this you find this printer as impressive as I do and you want to take one home for yourself I have a link in the description that will take you directly to the product page on create ease on website as of the time of publishing I think that's the only place you're gonna be able to find this printer you can order it direct they have a great warranty they have great customer service I say that as a person that has shot their direct myself way before they ever sent me this printer my original ender 5 came from there as one of the first 10 printers great experience I've ordered from plenty of times before so I'm just I'm praising Crowley because they've done a good job and they've treated me well in the past well I hope you've enjoyed this video I hope that it's been informative as well as a little entertaining if this is your first time watching one of my videos and you haven't subscribed yet please go ahead hit that subscribe button if you'd like to see the future videos I have planned on this printer or others hit the little bell icon you'll get no too and if you want to support my channel I have a patreon and a PayPal me link in the description I appreciate you watching I got a lot more to come on this channel I'm Chris and this has been Kersey fabrications thanks for watching [Music] you

Channel: Kersey Fabrications

Views: 172,490

Keywords: 3d printing, ender 5, ender 5 plus, creality ender 5, creality ender 5 plus, creality ender-5, ender 5 creality, creality ender 5 3d printer, creality 3d printer, ender-5 plus, creality ender 5 review, 3d printers, ender 5 3d printer, ender 5 assembly, ender 5 bed leveling, 3d printer, 3d printer review

Id: CznvM1onecA

Length: 81min 21sec (4881 seconds)

Published: Fri Aug 23 2019

Reddit Comments

[u/ExilentVacation]

So I've seen this video and it's great, but it leaves me with one important question, and that's the sound.

Because it's a V2.2 board; is there another moded board solution so one could install TMC stepper motor drivers? If not, would dampeners work by cutting the stepper motor noise?

A seperate issue he mentioned was part cooling, because it's so new is there anybody develping a Hero Me like fan mod? Either way the size is a deal maker for me...

[u/techyg]

I am planning on getting this, but I really wish they would have put a silent board in. Right now there are not a lot of drop in replacements (TH3D EzBoard Lite, and Cheetah v1.1/1.2, Creality silent board) so options are limited unless you plan on ditching or modding the case. Stepper dampers will cause twisting on the belts and aren't worth doing, in my opinion (and based on past experience with a CR10s). Otherwise, this looks like a pretty decent option. I like the dual z. I might wait a bit and see if they start selling them with the silent board... Otherwise that is $50 down the drain on an upgrade. I already have 2 other Creality v2.1 boards collecting dust.

[u/DronedIT]

That's a big beast of a printer, way bigger than the Ender 5. But, they seem to have captured most upgrade features that people wanted so it will be interesting to see how many they can sell at the bigger initial purchase price.