Bigtreetech Ender 5 Plus Upgrade: SKR V1.4 Turbo (Part 4)

[Music] now that's one board down one to go in my next video I will do the same sort of walkthrough for the SK RV 1.4 turbo and you can see how I installed that board in this printer it's a little bit different than what you've probably seen on other channels and I even have my own custom mount that I'm going to be sharing on Thingiverse that you'll be able to download [Music] so just a quick reminder before I get started that this is part four in a video series where I'm upgrading various components to the big tree tech components that includes the TFT 35 the mini III version 2.0 and the V 1.4 turbo so if you are interested in the comparison of all of these components if you want to see how I tear down and get this machine ready for these components or if you want to look back and see my install of the Mini III version 2.0 I'm going to include a playlist right up here that you can click on to catch any of those parts so I hope you enjoyed those parts and let's get started with the upgrade to the V 1.4 turbo so here we are with the SKR 1.4 turbo as you can see the first thing we're going to need to do with this board is install stepper drivers because this board does not have any onboard unlike the mini e3 boards now I believe for this printer the best choice for steppers are the TMC 22:08 because we don't need any of the features of the TMC 22:09 so we don't need to extra current because our motors won't use it and we don't need the sensorless homing because we have n stops now if you go with the 22:09 it's going to work just fine but it's gonna work just like the 22:08 so I've got the TMC 22:08 3.0 from big tree tech that's what these look like and these are excellent stepper drivers because they have a lot of heat dissipation onboard and what's great is these already have the UART configuration so that we can configure these steppers with software mode but we are going to have to make a couple of changes to the jumper configuration before we can do that now this is pretty simple and we're gonna make the same changes to all of these and I've got this wonderful set of pliers that I can use for this and the as you can see these are really tiny needlenose pliers if you don't have something like this you can use tweezers you may be able to get it with your fingertips depending on your fingernails so what we're gonna do is we're gonna move all of these jumpers off except for the second one here all these other ones need to moved off now you have the choice you can either pull these all the way off or what I like to do so that I can save them in case I ever need them is just move them off to the side making sure that I'm not shorting anything else or that this jumper is not doing anything so again I am going to use these two just pull each of these off into this position only leaving that second from the red side jumper in place all right there we go so that's what each of these is going to look like with just this jumper installed we're gonna move the rest of these over I'll show you what it looks like when it's done okay so as you can see I have moved all of the jumpers this is what it's going to look like again with only this second jumper from the red actually still on here the rest of them are cleared off now we can actually put our stepper drivers into the slots now the 22h there's no additional configuration that you need just make sure again by the UART version of these chips don't buy the ones that are meant for standalone or spy or anything like that because that's going to be additional configuration that you're going to have to do now if you are using the 2200 9s there's going to be some extra pins up here at the top and since we're not using sensibles homing you're actually going to have to cut one of those pins I will include a little graphic here on the screen showing you which pin to cut in case you want with the 22 or 9 s anyway but now all we have to do is again this is color coded you'll see red and black can't really mess that up too much and that's all we're going to do now for this particular machine we are not going to need more than 4 steppers and that's because we are going to run both Z's off of one stepper now why are we going to do that if we've got extra steppers well for me is a bit utilitarian meaning we don't need to run both Z's on twos different steppers because it works really well off of one these have plenty of power because we can set the current that we're going to output and not only that but we may want to use that other stepper for something else such as a second extruder which I plan on doing in a future video so I am going to go and populate this last stepper actually put in the last effort if you only have four again only populate these first four here but we're not going to put it in the last one but if you got all five the last one's going to go here now from this point we need to do what we did on the other board and we're going to need to install heat sinks on these steppers because they do need cooling and like last time I am going to orient my heat sinks in this direction because I think it's going to be slightly better for cooling and just like that now let me go ahead I'm going to populate the rest of these down here show you what it looks like and then we will take a look at the pin out of this board and I'll walk you around show you what all this has on it okay here is the board all the heat sinks installed now let's take a look at the schematics for this board the pinout for this board take a look at what's on here and how we're going to hook everything up okay so here we are with the pin out that I printed off of the big tree tech github repository let's kind of walk through this board real quick and just show you what's available now obviously these were all the stepper sticks that we installed to begin with and there are some chip selects and things like here in case there are special modes that we're going to need this doesn't apply to us because we're using you aren't these are going to be where we plug in our motors so X Y Z a Z B extruder zero extruder one now we have four total fans on here but only one of these fans is controllable from software and that's going to be this fan zero the way we can tell is you'll notice it has a 12 24 volt here and as a 2.3 this 2.3 here is a PIN number whereas the ones that are not controllable fan 1 fan 3 and fan two have a ground and a 12 volt this means it's not hooked up to a chip it is just hardwired this swd here that is for software debugging we don't care about that one now we support two hot ends on this board we have hot and 0 and hot end one we're only going to be using the first one at this point we have the bed which is going to be hooked up to our MOSFET this is our power input we have some additional pins here for USB voltage input more USB and some other clock pins and selects in case we have some external devices we have spy we have this Monty SD we have I squared C and we have a Wi-Fi in case we want to add a Wi-Fi card to here this TF T is going to go to our display for the touch screen functionality these are our misters for the bed for hot n 0 and for hot and one again we're only going to be using 0 we have neopixel support on here just as we did on the other mainboard this allows us to add colored lighting that is controllable we have the servos this is where we're going to plug in our BL touch probe can also be used for BL touch but we're actually going to be using the Z stop because it is also our end stop now we have some voltage outputs that we're not going to be using these power functions here are going to be in case we add some sort of power backup or power resume that kind of thing then we have an e 0 and an e 1 detect that we can use to detect our filament run out and these two expansion ports here are going to be for the text portion of our display and we have some additional pin outputs here again we're not going to be using those but these are important if you are coding for this board or if you're adding external peripherals so let me go ahead let's get the board installed we have a couple of options there and then I'll show you how everything gets connected ok so when it comes to installing the board into the case I actually have a couple of different options and the first one you may have seen on tripods garage when he did this mod and he chose this mounting plate this one's available on Thingiverse and as you can see what it does is it takes the board you existing mounting holes and then bumps it right up to the side of the chassis so that you can then cut these holes out and do it basically the way you were doing the other board now given the fact that I don't know if this is going to be my forever board I came up with a slightly different solution to this one and I made a new mounting plate which I will also be putting up on Thingiverse and with this one this sets it back away from the edge of the chassis sort of halfway between the mosfet and the side of the chassis and then I can use extension cables to mount these wherever I want so I've got the USB port here and I have an SD extension cable that I can run somewhere also now I also have the option of using the SD card that comes on the display or have them both available just in case I want to switch it around so I'm going to be using this extension as well as the USB extension to install it in my chassis now how exactly am I going to do this well this is kind of a personal preference thing however you think fits your use case best I'm going to want my USB mounted right here in the front so that I can easily get to it kind of sort of where the last one was I like this side kind of already got my workspace set up for this so what I'm going to do I'm going to cut and drill the necessary holes in this side to mount this right here I'm going to make sure I mount it high enough up to where this does not get in the way of this now what this allows me to do of course is have a board wherever I want in the chassis and then have my USB port up here for the long term and hopefully if this USB type changes then I can find another adapter similar to this to change it to and still keep my plug right here and then for the SD mount I'm also going to put it right over here but I'm going to use these terrific slits that are for cool and sort of use one of those to mount it right next to where my USB port is going to be it's gonna be kind of convenient right there facing upward make it easy now depending on whether you want micro SD or full-size SD they have adapters that come in different configurations I'm keeping mine micro SD because that's what I'm used to using at this point but it would be easy to swap one of these out later so I'm going to go ahead and mark off for where I want to cut the holes for my USB and cut those out using a dremel and drill for the screws and all of these parts are going to be available in the description and you can see how I do this and how I get it mounted then we'll mount the board [Music] [Music] okay we're ready to install the board so first thing we've got like I said we got my custom mounting plate that I'm going to install right here first and we're just going to use the existing mounting holes that the other board attached to I may improve this in the future one thing I don't like about this is this end is a little bit flexible it's not a big deal there's not going to be a whole lot of pressure anything on the board obviously but it'd be better if they had some feet or something on this end okay that's good and secured I'm going to take our main board now for the wires to be the correct length and everything to hook up correctly you're going to need to make sure that the terminals are on this end and we're also going to need to go ahead and hook these wires up ahead of time so that everything fits together the way it's supposed to I'm going to end take out my SD card I can go ahead and move that to the SD card slot on the front to make sure I don't lose it now I'm going to go ahead and plug in that go ahead and plug in make sure we got the right way up there we go and it snaps in just like usual now this I want to do my best to make sure it is out of the way so if I don't crease it everything should be fine and we'll work on the rest of these a little bit later there we go it's a good way to do it I don't want these holes to be obstructed and now we can attach this board I have already tapped these holes to make them easier to install these are m3 screws you can use 8 millimeter or so or six even if you have it and they'll be fine there we go this is a little bit more rigid now that I have everything installed because the board itself is making the hole mount more rigid okay now we can go ahead and start hooking up all the peripherals to the board go ahead let's go ahead and start with these over here so looking at again just like go down the other board I'm going to orient the sheet I know you can't see it's pretty bright but I'm gonna orient the sheet to match the board so that I know what I'm looking at so I do have this off to the side so going around here let's go ahead and plug in this one because it's already in the chassis the bed is going to be this one right here and positive is going to be on my left okay positive on the left again tight enough to squish down the Farrell's but not so tight that you're deforming anything there we go give them a little tug to make sure they're in there correctly next up let's go and pull out the main power again these are the bigger wires and for this one the red is on my right again those are good and tight moving along go ahead and grab one of these fans over here so this one the one with the blue and yellow this is going to be our part cooling fan so this is the one that needs to be controlled by the mainboard so this is going to be fans ear oh because that's our only computer-controlled fan and then we're going to grab the other fan while we're connecting now technically this fan which is our hot end fan could be hooked up to any of the other ones because all of these other ones are always on I'm going to go ahead and just make it fan one for consistency okay let's move on let's look for our hot end wires hot end wires are right here again polarity on these wires don't matter so I'm going to loosen up we have hot ends zero is on the bedside so this one's hot in zero good secure alright moving around so now that these are on this side we can kind of hook up however we want because we can go around this way we can go around this way really like kind of the layout here of this board because this allows us to better control our wiring and it's a great design if we want to run wires around this way and this way to keep them out of the airflow so going here we've got this is Y so Y is going to be our second plug here now this is going to have to go all the way around this way to the Y end stop now I'm actually going to pull this one back a little bit further than it was originally and this one probably is going to have to go over the board for now but I think it'll be out of the way ground and signal it doesn't matter which way we face this but obviously our key is on this side I think we're gonna have to turn it around this way and then we're gonna put this on the left pins so again just like this it should go on here it's gonna be a little tight because this is actually a three pin but it works pretty well let's go ahead and grab another one of our motors this one right here is going to be one of our Z's so this is z1 we're gonna put that in the next one let's see what do we got here we have X so X is going to go in this position and then our X stop is going to work just like our Y stop we're going to need to turn this and put it on the leftmost pins with the orientation that I have again I'm covering ground and signal kind of hard to get it in there but these do fit rather well z2 right here and we have this is going to be our extruder so that's gonna be our first one and that's all of our motors these two in stop it's going to our BL touch so BL touch has what we're going to use as our Z stop and then of course it's got the servo so Z stop is going to be ground and signal now for this one we're going to have ground in the middle signal on the left which is actually the opposite of what this is right now so these need to be swapped okay so I'm gonna put the white on my left I found my right did those pushed in really well and then those will go here polarity on the BL touch does matter unlike the other end stops okay now let's double check our servo pens for our other plug according to this it's going to be ground power and 2.0 so ground power and this is the signal pin so this is the correct orientation we're going to plug this into the servo pin which is right here push it all the way down it should stay in just fine no problem again some of these going across the middle here shouldn't be any problem next up we have our filament run out detection which is this one film that run out detection is going to be this one for easy row and that is going to be 5 volt ground and signal so 5 volt ground and signal it's gonna go just like this it should work without any additional modification and we have our final 2 pins which are our bed and our hot and 0 bed goes to the very end kind of a stretch hot and 0 goes to the one that's next there we go move these off to the side one more we also have our pins for our display so this is our TFT which is going to go to this one right in here it's going to go in this orientation so the loose wire is going to be our reset pin so that's going to be on this end and you orient the other ones in the same direction and then we have our text pins for our text display and again I already have these labeled this is 1 and this is 2 because I've labeled them before and we have 1 & 2 now I'm going to spend a little bit of time tidying everything up before I close it up then we'll turn everything over hook everything back up and we'll be ready for a test to see if my firmware looks good one last thing is you're going to hook up this last fan you can actually use either this one or this one they're wired exactly the same way and then this fan will be hooked up whenever your power is on now ideally this fan would be a little bit further up the chassis to cool these directly so a future model might want to do would be to actually putting a larger fan here that's been slower and just moves more air because then I would be cooling the entire main board and not hoping that just adding some airflow was enough to keep things cool I honestly don't think I'm going to have a problem here these are good heat sinks and this is going to create air flow but I probably will come back later and add some additional cooling here okay just as before I have everything hooked back up here all the wiring and the back power supply everything like that is hooked up the way it should be but I wanted to give you a closer look at the finished work so right here you can see I've got my USB port and I've got my SD card slot these are very easy to access I really like the look of it and here is my display and as you can see looks great here even though it's not flush and what's great about this one of course is now I have access to my USB slot and access to my SD card slot which is here on the side and I can use some sort of you know screwdriver or something else to push down right here and everything looks great so now let's go and cut it on I've got my firmware dot been on my SD card here and now I can cut it back on and flash and boot up all right Marlin comes right up as bug-fix 200x branch I'm using the same branch in the same codebase that I used on the other board so that I have an apples to apples comparison when comparing performance so now we can back out I will test the motion of the printer and we will also test the heating up of the printer before I get going with any of my test prints okay we're back wide here we can see our B I'll touch is actually lit up with this is good that's a good sign so let's go ahead and test our motion I'm going to just move some of these access from the center so we're going to move X and it moves to the left which is good move to the right and let's check out the Y it's going to move to the front move to the back so good and last but not least let's move the Z it's going to go down I'm just going to come back up there we go just as you expect so now that we're sure that everything is moving correctly we can move on to doing an auto home to make sure that of our end stops and BL touch are also working correctly and stops look good we're gonna move to the center B I'll touch deploy ease there we go detects correctly I'm going to do a second probe we're all good next up I'm going to do a quick heat test make sure that the bed and the nozzle heat up correctly I can just go to temperature I can go to my preheat PLA and just choose the first one that should get both the display is saying two of five and sixty which are my defaults and we already see the nozzle heating up and we're gonna start seeing the bed heat up as well yes so it looks like all of this is working correctly which is terrific now I can move on to my test prints and then we'll have something to compare to see how this board compares to the other board and to our stock configuration just so that we know what we're getting in terms of an actual upgrade so go off to those prints I'll be back in a minute with the results so that's it for this upgrade now two things number one if you are looking for any of the components that I've used in this video please check the description below I'm gonna have links to everything that I use so that you can grab them for yourself number two if you're looking for my firmware I'm going to have that in three different formats for you to grab number one if you just want the binary if your printer is basically configured the same way - you can grab the precompiled binary stick that on the microSD card as firmware dot bi in stick that in the main board when you power up it should flash that firmware dot bi in directly to your printer and be ready to go now if you need to do your own compiling or your own configuration I'm gonna have two different forms for that number one you can grab just the configuration files in a convenient zip that's going to be shared below or you can download my entire source tree from github and I'm going to include that link also in my next and final video of this series I'm going to give you my full comparison of the two boards that I tested I'm going to give you the pros the cons the differences and I'm also going to show you the full benchmarks between the two boards so that you can make an informed decision on which board to go with and I'm going to have benchmarks that actually show you what board processes g-code faster so if you're looking forward to that make sure that you like this video make sure that you're subscribed and hit the bell icon so that you notified when that posted and if you want to support this channel I'm gonna have the links down in the description below again thanks for watching I'm Chris and this has been Kersey fabrications see you next time [Music] [Music]

Channel: Kersey Fabrications

Views: 49,989

Keywords: big tree tech skr, bigtreetech, bigtreetech btt skr v1.4 turbo, bigtreetech skr v1.4, bigtreetech skr v1.4 marlin, bigtreetech skr v1.4 turbo ender 5, bigtreetech skr v1.4 turbo firmware, bigtreetech skr v1.4 turbo marlin, bigtreetech v1.4, btt skr 1.4, btt skr 1.4 turbo firmware, btt skr v1.4 turbo, btt skr v1.4 turbo firmware, ender 5 plus, ender 5 plus skr 1.4, ender 5 plus upgrades, kersey fabrications, skr v1.4, skr v1.4 turbo

Id: vS8RM2RPe-s

Length: 29min 58sec (1798 seconds)

Published: Thu Jul 16 2020