The Best Part Cooler for Creality 3D Printers (Ender 5 Upgrades #8)

well here we are part 8 of my ender 5 upgrade series and in this video I'm finally going to be tackling something I've been may need to do for quite some time on my end or five and that is balancing and improving the cooling of the ender 5 printer what's great about this video is going to be that it not only applies to the ender 5 but the same hot end and cooling assembly that you see on the ender five is shared with a lot of the other creative printers that means that the ender 3 the CR 10 can all benefit from this video and from what I'm going to share about why we're actually going to make this modification what the purpose is is what the purpose is and what we're actually going to be looking for that's what we're doing right here today on Kiersey fabrications let's go [Music] so to get the ball rolling let's talk about why cooling is important on any 3d printer so looking at the under 5 cooling assembly and like I said this is shared with a lot of other Cali printers you'll see that there are two fans one there's a 40-millimeter fan that is used to cool the heatsink that you'll find on the hot end so what that does is it make sure that you're not getting what's called heat creep up into that heatsink which would cause your filament to melt prematurely the second part and what we're actually looking at in this video is what's called the part cooling fan the part cooling fan is actually use just as it sounds to cool the part that you're printing so certain types of thermal plastics like PLA need to be cooled quickly once they've been extruded out of the nozzle and what that does is it solidifies them it makes sure that number one they hold their shape and number two that they're ready to receive the next layer of filament when it goes up to the next level so proper part cooling does three things for us really number one it ensures that there's no cooling artifacts on the actual print and make sure that you don't see any drooping extrusions or any rough extrusions on the edges number two good cooling can actually make sure that you don't need additional supports on your print that means less removing of supports when you're done and also potentially a better quality prep because you're not going to have the support removal artifacts after you cut those off number three and most importantly is it's going to reduce the number of printing failures so you may have seen before if you ever have improper cooling on a really steep angle in particular you may see that that print actually starts to curl up or that it begins to get a little rough on top what that can do is it can actually catch your nozzle and when it catches your nozzle one of two things is going to happen number one it may knock your part off your printer which of course means a failure it means starting over or number two it actually may catch that nozzle causing one of your motors to slip and then you have what's called a layer shift and because of that layer shift again you're going to start extruding plastic where it's not meant to be and you're going to have to start over so a lot of those questions and concerns could be due to improper cooling or the printer not being able to lay down layers correctly and thus producing a print failure now let's turn to the crowding printer specifically or any printer that shares a similar design to this stock cooler from Cree ality so as I mentioned this 40 millimeter fan is specifically designed to cool the hot end or the heatsink that separates the hot end from the cold in well that same fan does blow a little bit onto the part due to the design of this and they're not being anywhere for the air floor to go so it goes down onto the part but that's not the primary cooling for the part that's just extra the other fan the blower on the side is the one that is primarily designed to cool the part now one of the problems with this design is there's only a fan on one side now under most situations most prints that you're going to find that's probably good enough and in my testing I found that it's probably good enough now but where you're going to have problems is if you have an extreme angle or an extreme overhang on your print so for example this Ironman gauntlet that I was printing it has overhangs on both sides it has one on this side of the gauntlet as well as this side of the gauntlet and so one side the side with the cooling is very clean the overhangs look very good the corners look very clean there's not gonna be any cleanup I have to do there I can just do any normal sanding or filling that I'm going to do while on the other side the corners are very rough where there's that overhang and that's because there wasn't direct cooling on that edge it was trying to get around with this cooler but it couldn't get to it because there was other plastic in the way so this is a situation you may find on some models now if you know about this issue a lot of the times you could orient the model to where the overhangs are specifically facing the cooler but you're not always going to have that ability on your printer to twist it around particularly if you're working with the shape that has overhangs on more than two or three different sides of the print so why did I decide to tackle this now well if you follow me on other social media you may have seen me printing this model for Nikko industries what this is this is an Ironman model it says I love you 3000 on the bottom it has Ironman hugging his daughter in the pose that he's in at the end of endgame well all of the bottom pieces were pieces that oriented well on my print bed and I could pretty much guarantee that the cooling would not be a problem but I was really concerned with the top part that has a lot of overhangs their arms their legs there's the daughter skirt this was an important model to me I really didn't want the model to get messed up due to improper cooling or me have to put extra supports on this model and then they'll be more clean up so this was the ideal time for me to go ahead and tackle cooling so what was I looking for in my cooler well first of all I wanted to mine the market that's already there I know that there are a lot of Crowley printers out there I know that there are a lot of people that have already tackled this problem so I didn't really want to invent the will and try to create my own if there were perfectly good models out there I went to Thingiverse usually the first place to go and I found several models that fit the bill and I actually went on sort of a journey where I was trying to do the least modification to the printer as possible so the first model I found is called an AAS hero v2s now what I really liked about this model is that it did not require any modding of the actual fans themselves this mod actually attempts to use the existing fans that come with the printer and just create a new design new layout for this which also gives us the dual cooling for both sides of the printer it was also a really nice model in terms of the amount of supports I had it was minimal didn't require me even actually removing the the heatsink from the mounting plate I would just remove the existing mount for the fans and all and then just attach them to here I'd be ready to go the next part I found was by a designer called Z Vox and this is simply called the Inder 2:35 part cooling fan duct now this one actually requires you to remove the existing fans that come with the printer or at least the blower that comes on the printer we replace it with the 50 millimeter blower so this will require a little bit more work but I knew I was going to have to do that to evaluate more than one mod and share them all with you so for the next one I didn't find it on Thingiverse this one is called the Bantam mount and what's really nice about this just like the next one I'm going to show you is that is a modular mounting system so this maps directly to the plate and then you can choose which type of cooler you want on it so a single blower unit a dual blower unit or you can actually use a dual radial fan on here as well but I'm not going to be evaluating that today and finally I'm going to be taking a look at a mod called the Hiromi gen3 which they say is for the CR 10 the Ender 3 to enter 5 under 3 Pro again it's for all creative printers this one is the one that's still on the printer as of right now and much like the Banta mount this is a modular mounting system that has a mount that goes on the plate and then you can change out the cooling solution so again there's a single 50 millimeter blower solution a dual 50 millimeter blower solution as well as some others one thing to keep in mind as I go through this entire review please note that number one this is not a scientific exploration of cooling I'm not evaluating the airflow of any of these I'm evaluating this from a very practical perspective I found some coolers I printed them out I'm going to see how they actually affect the park cooling on this printer the other thing to note is that some of these coolers can coming different configurations I tried to choose the ones that I thought would provide the best cooling and we're also going to take a look a little bit at the volume that you're going to expect from the cooling solutions meaning how loud are the fans when you put them on here so let's talk about test that I'm going to perform on each of these coolers including the stock so one thing I wanted to do was to take an overhang test put them side by side which allows us to see how the overhangs respond on both sides of the hot end you're gonna see the left and the right I'm gonna do my best to explain which one I'm talking about but I realized that the orientation of either your printer or me on camera may be a little confusing so I'll try to refer to it as the cooling side or the non cooled side if we're only dealing with the one sided cooling so this dual overhang test has angles all the way up and down starting at 55 degrees going all the way up to 85 degrees and what that will allow me to do is for the graphs that you're gonna see me generate I'm going to round to a 5 degree increment which is about as close as I can get here I'm gonna use that angle to plug into my slicer when it's time to actually choose what the maximum overhang is so 5 degrees actually works really well if that goes well if I'm happy with that or more specifically if it does better than the stock cooler I'm then going to do a bridge test and that bridge test will let me know how much sagging I see on really long bridges bridges are important when printing because again it reduces the amount of supports that you're that you need and it also really demonstrates how well the cooling is doing because if he can go such a long distance it's probably cooling fairly well as it's coming out of the nozzle and then what I did I came up with two metrics one I wanted to see where do I consider the print to still be really good so I'm happy with the quality still and then to where did I see it finally failed meaning where was I not seeing it cool sufficiently enough to where I would even consider that a print I would want to continue so on the stock cooler what I saw was on the good I was happy with the print on the left side meaning the uncool side was at the 60 degree mark on the right side at the 70 degree mark and then on the failure case they started to both about at the 85 degree mark I was about as far as I could push it before it really started to droop down and then since this is the control this is where we're starting at I did do the bridge test for this bridge test I didn't see any failed lines meaning there's nothing that actually drooped down to the point where it was resting on the line below it there was a little drooping nothing too bad but it was definitely not perfect again we're still talking about this cooler being acceptable I've printed with this cooler the default cooler the entire time so let's move on to the first competitor this one is the a s Hiro v2 was really happy with this one when I first found it because I'm like okay well we get the dual printing meaning the left and the right side printing as well as not having to overly mod the print are not actually having to do any electronics work on the printer what some people may be adverse to so on this one again you pull off the existing fans the front plan goes here the side fan actually really fits well on this printer this is a really well designed mod but when it came time to actually testing this mod didn't turn out to be a very good idea the good was only up to 55 degrees on both the left and the right so I can't say hey at least we got even cooling left on the right side looking about the same failure was about where we saw it on the stock one and we started seeing the drooping about 85 you may have been able to call this a little bit before 85 but there wasn't actually technically any severe drooping until the 85 degree mark so since this one wasn't even quite as good as the stock cooler I didn't worry about an overhang test and I moved on to the next one so this is a good point where I'm going to actually pause and talk about how do you mod this printer what is the best practice when it comes to removing any of these fans in order to put on new fans so let me walk you through the process that I went through to remove these fans add some connectors so that we can swap these out later particularly if we have a fan failure in the future so the first thing we're going to do a courser is remove the existing fan assembly then we can remove the two fans from that assembly once we get them removed which is pretty easy just a few screws then we can snip these fans off so that we can attach the new fans make sure you leave yourself some extra wire in case you want to attach connectors to reuse these fans later next up we're going to make sure we slide on our heat shrink tubing first then we can't in these new connector as well as the wires to make the attachment of this connector easy then we'll just pull down the heat shrink tubing when we're done and we'll be ready to move on to the second connector you'll notice on this connector as I'm soldering it I still have the wire hooked up going to my new fan the reason I do that is so that I can tell the polarity of the new fan so that it won't be switching out connectors later on and once I have everything solder on of course I pull down my heat shrink tubing then I can use my soldering iron to melt that tubing and I'm ready to go so now that we've done the wiring mod you can now use whichever fans you want on there so this allows us to move on to our next cooler the Z box cooler now the Z box cooler you can use the same 40 millimeter fan for the heatsink cooling the heatsink will slide directly in the top of this and keep in mind that's going to limit the heat sinks you can use because they're gonna have to be exactly the same size as the original one it does slide in well though and then you can use a 50 millimeter blower to actually provide the park cooling and then it has this nice channel which hopefully will evenly distribute the cooling around your part so let's find out how this one actually does in practical park cooling so looking at the actual overhang test with this one we see again the left/right cooling about the same we're not seeing any big difference between the left and the right cooling this one's working slightly better than the hero v2s was in fact we're getting up to the 60 degree mark on here and failures again at 85 so again though this one's still not really working up to par to even the stock cooler because on the right we were still getting better cooling than we were the left so again on this one I didn't run the bridge test because we're still not even up to the level of the stock cooler so let's move on to the third mod which is the Bantam mount so first of all I was really happy when I saw the Banta mount has a very clean website a nice place to download it the guy spent a lot of time on actually delivering the parts to you the the end user so you go on to the web site you will actually select the parts that you want sign up for an account and then he will send you the files via email so the way this works it starts with a base mount that you'll get for your plate and then you can choose whichever cooling options you want whether you want a radio fan meaning the type that has the motor in the center or whether you want a blower fan so with this one I did download the indoor 5 mounts specifically I found the end of 5 mount did not go on the way that I would want it to but it actually wasn't a big deal I was able to cut off the back mount smooth that out and then since you actually do have to pull off the heatsink to mount this one I actually was able to use the through holes use longer screws and actually mount those holes all the way into the mounting plate which actually secured this really well which was different than the original designer had planned but it worked really well for me without any real heavy modification of the printer to install this once your mounting plate is on there then you can easily switch back and forth between the different cooling options just by removing two screws and putting your fan on top so with this one I first started with the single fan solution so with the single fan solution what we saw was it was a bit uneven much like what we saw with the original cooler the stock cooler that we were working with but it was actually the opposite direction meaning we saw better cooling on the left slightly worse cooling on the right overall I was happy with the results but it wasn't a great improvement over the stock cooler again we were left with failures at 85 degrees so we were about on par with what I think we saw with the original cooler now moving to the dual fan solution I was able to run the fans at a hundred percent keep in mind when you put two blowers on this this printer you're going to have a lot of noise you also are going to add some vibration to the printer which is definitely not what you're looking to do but let's start out with the hundred percent fan speed at a hundred percent fan speed we saw consistent cooling on both sides I was able to get a 70 degree overhang on both the left and the right and failures not until 80 or 85 depending on which side we're talking about but that 70 degree failure mark again that was an improvement over the stock cooler because again the right was at 70 but the left was always at 60 so now we have balance cooling but unfortunately at the sacrifice for a lot more noise so in the interest of seeing hey can we use this but maybe just decrease the fan speed I took the fan speed down to 80 percent so at 80% we had consistent cooling again but our overhangs dropped 10 degrees to what I thought was acceptable to 60 degrees again so at 80% what I was seeing was again we had worse cooling performance than the stock cooler and taking a look at these two what's important to notice is that the cooling was actually so poor that what I actually saw was a print failure for both of these these actually knocked off the print bed due to curling of the edges of these overhangs so taking it down to the 80% mark definitely wasn't going to do the job but back up to the hundred percent mark actually did do my bridging test and on the bridging test I saw you know comparing to the stock cooler the drooping was slightly less but I actually did have maybe two or three failures on the bridges meaning I actually have loose filament here that didn't quite make the bridge so is this on par with the stock probably so but again if you compare it to the star cooler now what we've done is we've sacrificed slightly better cooling for a lot more noise so for our final cooler I went to a part that's found on Thingiverse again called the Hiromi gen3 now before I go any further with this one I have to let you know what a pain this cooler was to install and what I mean by that is you'll see here in the video is that I ended up having to remove pretty much the entire maket mounting bracket to get this one on correctly remove the mounting bracket from my rail system I don't think that would have been any different if I was running the stock rails or the stock wheels but when I pulled it off then I could finally get to all screws and everything I needed to to actually mount this was kind of nice that the heatsink was still mounted to the mounting bracket which I actually do like forward Jiddah t but again having to remove everything I guess it's not a big deal if you only have to do this what I was doing it obviously here four or five times or more depending on how much I was going back and forth but just letting you know it's a little difficult to print you'll only want to use supports to the print bed do not use supports everywhere but it does require supports on this one once you have everything printed though once you finally got everything disassembled you can then put it back together and as I mentioned on the Banta mount at that point then you mount that base plate to it then you could swap between which cooling solution you went with so much like the Bantam out first I started with this single fan solution because if a single fan solution will work you're going to save yourself some noise on your print cooling so for the single fan results what I saw it's finally able to get up to that magic number I was looking for and I was able to get up to 70 on the left 70 on the right for the overhang angle and I was really happy with that result again failures at the 80 to 85 degree mark where hopefully you won't be printing but that's what we saw typically for all the other coolers so given that the single works oh well I really wanted to see how far we can push this so I printed the dual cooler solution which has 250 millimeter blowers and I printed first with a hundred percent fan speed at a hundred percent fan speed I was able to get eighty degrees on the Left seventy-five degrees on the right and failures on both not until 80 so this is terrific this is the best I've seen out of any cooler so I'm like well if I get that out of a hundred percent fan which again much like the Bantam out super loud way louder than I'd actually want to print at let's take it down a notch let's try 85 percent on the fan speed again at that point I still saw really good on the left I'm not really sure what the huge difference on the left and the right fan were given that they should be working balanced but I was able to get the 80 degrees on the left still the 70 degrees on the right so I'm still above that 70 degree mark on the on the right fan so at that point I'm curious hey well what if I take it down to 75% on the fan speed and at that point I was still getting 70 degrees and 70 degrees on both the left and the right so kind of what I was getting on the single fan but with a lot less noise I would say that the dual fans at 75% was probably quieter than the single fan at a hundred percent so I was really happy with either result I could keep the single fan I go with the dual fan but what's nice about the dual fan solution in this particular case is that it gives me some flexibility if I want more cooling I can turn up the fan speed if I want less cooling because the part doesn't require it I can actually turn it down which is going to quiet the entire printer at that point so taking a look at the final analysis of all of these coolers I have laid out here and the cooler that as you see I still have left on my printer is that the hiromi gen3 outperformed all of the other solutions and doing an analysis of kind of the design of the cooler I really think what separates the hero from like the Banta is that it has more airflow so if you notice on both of the bantha mounts no matter whether you're dealing with a single or dual solution it really goes to a very small nozzle that nozzle is going to restrict airflow which is going to limit the amount particularly if you're trying to push an entire fan through that little nozzle it's going to limit the amount of air coming out there limiting the cooling power of the cooler whereas the hiromi actually has more holes and I believe is going to offer a lot more cooling to that part not only that but actually is a wider opening which hopefully will cool down more of that surface area of the print really think that that is the advantage of the hiromi gen3 over the other coolers that I had here on the table it just cools the part better due to better floo so now that I have all of my results what am i sticking with as I mentioned I'm sticking with the hero medium three I'm actually want to stick with the dual cooler approach because the dual cooler approach allows me more flexibility I can go with a hundred percent fan speed if I really need it but I can also switch over and do seventy-five percent if I know the parts not going to need it making for a much quieter print so now that I have all that figured out let's get back to the whole point of all of this which is producing better cleaner nicer prints and getting more performance out of your printer let's get back to that Tony Stark statue and let's see what I was able to do whatever to print and let's see this finished up so here we are with that final piece I have finally cleaned it all up this print turned out beautifully it's important to note let's talk about the filament real quick the filament was all done in filament one in both of these filaments but the silver and this red glint cover this glittery red color came in my filament one box that our receive every month from them and it is just a beautiful set of colors for this model we have the arc reactor here again this model designed by Nico and his talented artists over at Nico industries we've got the arc reactor here we have Tony Stark kneeling in his famous pose from in-game and I was able to finish this off you'll notice that there is no degradation in this model on any of the overhangs I plugged into that 70 degrees did not have to worry about any cooling I think I ran this one at the 85% because I didn't want it to be too loud you can see all of the detail on this model produced by the Ender 5 the filament one and with help of this cooling mod that I showed you here today so I hope you found that this video was useful I hope that not only the examination of the parts on this table was useful but also my analysis exactly the test prints I used and why I went through this process to begin with I would like to thank all of the designers of these parts whether that they were the the best solution or they didn't provide the best solution I want them to know that we appreciate their service to the community and thank you for continuing to design parts that other people can test in use and I encourage them to continue to work on these parts to improve them there gonna be a lot of links in the description there are links to these parts I've got links to filament 1 so that you can take a look at their great filaments please check out Nikko industries who designed this model as well as a ton of other cosplay models and other statues I want to thank my patrons that have supported this channel Alan Reynolds asker vest berg david wilson thank you very much for your support of this channel I wanted to shout-out to you guys because you guys keep this going and I appreciate your input thank you to everyone that comments on these videos please tell me what you think about the system that I used to evaluate this let me know what you think about the graphs and just the overall process as always comment down below what you think my next upgrade should be for the ender fives believe it or not I already have two or three in the pipeline so there's gonna be more here soon thanks again this has been Chris and you're watching perfect applications [Music] you

Channel: Kersey Fabrications

Views: 129,270

Keywords: 3d printing, 3d printer, 3d printed, ender 5, ender 3, creality ender 5, ender 5 upgrades, ender 3 pro, creality 3d printer, creality ender 3, 3d printing for beginners, ender 3 pro upgrades, creality ender 5 plus, creality ender 5 upgrade, creality ender 5 mods, best ender 5 upgrades, ender 5 3d printer upgrades, creality ender-5 printer, 3d printer upgrades, creality cr-10, BantaMount, Hero Me Gen3, hero me gen 3, hero v2s

Id: qW2EEqCh0NI

Length: 30min 16sec (1816 seconds)

Published: Fri Sep 13 2019