Big Tree Tech SKR 2 - Install - Marlin Configuration - Chris's Basement

if there's one thing big tree tech excels at that is releasing 3d printer main boards and today we're going to take a look at another one this is the skr2 [Music] hello everyone chris here and yes big tree tech has released the next rendition in the skr series the skr2 and we're going to do the usual look over the board see what the new features are get it installed and give it a test but the skr2 had kind of a rocky release there were some issues when they first released it and they tried to pull as many of the boards back and get the revision b out to all the users and they did a fair job at trying to mitigate all these issues with that bad board the revision a board so before we get started with this video let's talk about what happened with the skr2 so here's the skr2 now the issue that they had with these boards was actually a feature that they were trying to introduce to help you out and that's with this mosfet right here now the point of this is so you can install the drivers either way if you had to flip one around like you got it wrong on accident this would protect you from ruining that driver now with these boards depending on the driver you have that's actually kind of hard to do but that's a nice feature a nice thought that it would save your drivers if you got it flipped around but because the wrong component got used when they put those mosfets on it was causing problems and destroying some of the drivers i think the most common one was the 2209 it wouldn't tolerate it now you can fix that issue you can ground out several of these pins you can tie them down to the ground on the board if you wanted to but big tree tech is offering full refunds for these boards so if you have a revision a board just get rid of it don't use it i wouldn't bother with it just in case you got confused down the line i'll leave some information in the description on how you could fix it and the information if you need to return one but how do you know if you had a bad one well the easiest way is to just flip the board over on all the boards with a bad mosfet you just have this green qc sticker on the revision b boards the ones that operate correctly you should have the green sticker as well as a chrome sticker also the mosfets that are good the ones that don't have issues are all the same model number the one on the revision a board that i have is this mosfet here it's a g090n06 but it could be multiple components it might be different from this one but this is the bad board and all of the good boards should have an hy1904 on them as far as i know they're all this model of mosfet you should be good to go here again big tree tech offers a couple of different scenarios where you can replace the mosfet there should be some extra parts you can ground it out there's a bunch of different fixes but again i would just have it replaced just so you don't have any questions down the line so in general that's what happened and again i don't like to have one-off configurations like this laying around because eventually i'll get back to that and then wonder why i did what i did to resolve that issue so personally i would just rather have it replaced but you can go whichever direction you like i will leave a link to all that information in the description below but make sure you get your revision be bored or at least you get it updated so it will work correctly no matter what driver you use now with all that said let's move to the features that are on the skr2 and take a look back at the skr series we have gone through a one one a one 3 and a 1 4 and i do believe the skr2 has the best set of features going forward now let's talk a little bit about the evolution of the skr boards now this is a 1.3 board they did actually have a 1.1 board it had a few issues but this is the first one that was actually a really solid board in my opinion it worked great it was missing a few features but i actually prefer the one three over the one four in a certain amount of scenarios so the big thing about the skr boards is they had integrated smart driver control you don't have to jumper things to be able to use spi or uart interfaces it's all integrated right in and you can control it with jumpers and that was great to see especially on the 1-3 board because you could trigger senseless homing over here with these jumper caps there's drummer caps underneath all of these drivers where you can use spi mode or you have jumpers out here where you can cap them for uart drivers now the one three did lack a few different pins it didn't have as many exposed servo pins as i would like to see there was a few other things like dedicated pro pins that you might want that one three didn't have but it is a pretty solid board i like being able to use those jumper caps also there was only one port for your z motor even though that would be a parallel connection those two would be connected together it would be nice to have two ports you could always use your extruder 1 driver 2 if you'd like and the 1.3 boards were an lpc 1768 chip and then we had the 1.4 boards you could get these in one four and one for turbo the only difference is the regular one had an lpc1768 just like the one three and the turbo had a lpc1769 now there were a few changes here you can see these pins up here for diag pins for something like on a 2209 well they let you use the pins on the driver to select what mode you were using so you'd actually have to clip a pin if you didn't want to use sensorless homing or it would interfere with some of these end stop pins down here now there were more ports available on these boards like ports for wi-fi you had dedicated pro ports neopixels so there were a few more assess reports on the 1.4 versions but it wasn't near as easy to select your driver mode you do get two z ports on this one in parallel so in some areas this was an improvement but in other areas i think it's actually a little bit of a downgrade than the 1-3 the one big jump for the 1-4 is it did have a dedicated e-prompt chip where the 1-3 you had to use the sd card so it did have that going for it and i do want to mention on the one three and one four you do have blade fuses which is nice to see it makes it a lot easier to use now we jump to the skr2 the skr2 is trying to be the best of both worlds in my opinion there's a lot of added features that we can go over and we will touch on them but as far as the downsides from the 1 3 and the 1 4 it's got a mix of both so the jumpers that you can select your driver settings they're all here just like on the one three you do get the dual ports and all of the extra accessory pins just like on the one four and dedicated eeprom so that is a bonus that was one of the biggest issues that i had in between the one three and one four so they resolved that but notice you have these micro fuses down here those are a lot harder to get than a regular blade fuse so they have switched over to that so note that if you're getting an skr2 and they have changed up the heater terminals here for e0 and e1 they've put these plugs in so the wires actually come out of the top that can be a little handier to install than when they come out of the side if you have a tight case also they've converted over to a wi-fi module set so you can use something like a 32 module instead of that 8266 so that should give you a lot more options and be a lot handier if you'd like to run reprap firmware which you can on this board but outside of the comparison let's go over some of the features first to note if you're used to the skr series it is the same bolt pattern as the 1 3 and the 1 4 so you don't have to rework your case too much do be aware of that sd card slot and this new usb type plug that you can use for storage this processor they switch from the lpc format over to stm32 this is an stm32f407 vgt6 again you can interface with an esp-12s or esp-07s module you can run marlin and reprap they have configurations for both in my opinion one of the biggest upgrades for the skr2 is you get three pwm modulated fans so you can control all of those in g-code and then you have two always-on ports if you'd like to use them but that's a big deal you almost never see three all these extra pins over here it's pretty much standard fare but there are a lot of them you have ports for servos probes ps on power detect filament detect rgb all the good stuff that one for had and more and it will support pretty much every driver on the map 5160 2209 2225 226 27208 2130 even lv 8729 8825's a4988 whatever you want to run this will support them of course with all those driver choices spi or uart or your standalone mode again i mentioned you do get two z plugs of course you have your tft pins for your touchscreen just like all the other boards and added to this one is the udisk as they like to call it so you can use a flash drive for your files and on the back older badging is very clear easy to read just like all the other boards everything's good here pcb is four layers thick so the skr2 definitely has a good feature set there's a lot of improvements in my opinion over the one three and one four boards they finally got a lot of those jumper settings right for the drivers and that's what we're going to do now let's go over how to install different types of drivers on these boards because that is one of the biggest advantages to the skr series they have integrated connections where you can use smart drivers and all their features all right now let's get set up to use our drivers for this build we are going to use 2209s that's pretty common those are uart mode but again these will handle multiple drivers so by default if you have all of these jumpers on underneath the driver that is spi mode something like a 2130 would use if you use these sets of pins over here that is step direction mode that's what big tree tech calls it i call it standalone mode that'd be for something like an a4988 or an 8825 now to use uart mode we only need this jumper on so we can go ahead and remove all the other ones i'll do that now all the extra jumpers are off so now we can use uart mode for these 2209s now remember i said you had to snip some diag pins on the one four and then you had actual jumpers on the one three to set up sensorless homing well skr2 you have a set of pins right here i'll lean that up a bit but you can see them right here they're actually kind of close to that diagpan module but if you want to use sensorless homing cap these pins log here still uses in-stop switches so we're going to leave these open it is important to note that these pins over here are a lot smaller and they're going to take a smaller jumper than the ones over here these are about three millimeters apart these are two and a half so if you want to use that sensorless homing they give you some of these really small jumpers with the board but you don't have to do anything now to that driver clip the pins anything like that to use some of this homing you just have to put these caps on just be aware it is a different size all five are on and i do use this fifth driver because i'm really getting good results out of using that g34 command to level my z gantry so i'm plugging in z in the z driver and in e1 and then setting it up in firmware one more thing to be aware of you do have your jumper over here if you would like to power it up usb by default it should be on vdd so it's only powered by the input power and you have some jumpers over here to select wi-fi and this u driver port my guess is they are sharing cereal so you probably can't use both but you can probably get around that in the firmware nowadays because they are offering three different cereals but just be aware that you can select them with these jumpers all of this information for the drivers and the board is over on the victory tech github link in the description now we're going to walk through step by step plugging all this in i'm just going to plug it in here on the table this is my case for my 1.3 board again it's the same footprint but i am going to have to add a hole for this usb drive port so i'll get a hole punched in it get another one printed out and i'll leave links in the description so you can use this case if you want to this one is designed to use the stock prusa case holes it slides on two screw heads here up against the frame so we got our drivers installed i will update that case and leave a link in the description in case you want to print it again it does fit the prusa style printer but also i wanted to note that this is my fourth skr2 board i had issues with several of these both revision a and revision b they all did a few things a little bit differently on a lot of the revision b boards i had problems with sd cards and lcd screens big tree tech did take care of it and they finally got me a board that works perfectly but remember qc on these boards isn't always the best but let's go ahead and move to the install because i do think the skr02 is worth checking out because of the features that it has so pretty much this is a standard board install we're just going to work around and plug things in but let's talk about fans first because that's really the only thing that's a lot different here fan zero is traditionally your part fan in the configuration for this board they are using the pin called pb7 and that is this plug here it's the one closest to the power input also keep in mind if you have to reconfigure a plug you have to put a new connector on it the vcc pin is on this side over here and the controller pin is on this side over here so for my part fan it'll go right here remember that's pb7 power to the outside of the board and then i'm going to stick my hot end fan right above it so that i can control it in firmware this is pb6 so it won't be on all the time and remember you have three of these now so if you have a controller board fan that you want to set based on temperature or whatever you might want to set it to when the motors are energized in the firmware go ahead and put it back here in pb5 and then you can control it in g-code or firmware a great upgrade and then we'll just continue on the hot end thermistor right down here i'll i still like to use my probe on the z minimum pins so i don't bother using the probe pens most the time when you configure those pro pins you enable it to use a z end stop as well i don't have a z and stop i just use the probe and i find it much easier just to put it on the z min pins if you're going to use the same type of probe i do i use a pen to probe the wiring on a lot of these probes is going to be the same you're going to have brown blue and black on this board down here this is the signal pin up here that's the 5 volt pen so your black wire would go to signal your brown goes to 5 volt just like that then we'll plug in our extruder motor right up here to e0 driver i have a filament run out sensor we're going to put it right here on e0 detect that's the traditional x max pen and on this board it's kind of nice because you can pull these connectors off and then we can just screw down our hot end heater make sure it's nice and snug and then we can plug it back in this first one here is heater zero this one's heater one now on this board be careful because these are the heated bed pins to power it up these are the power in pins and the polarity is flip-flopped on these for the heated bed a lot of times the polarity doesn't matter but if you have an led on yours it will so pay close attention for the heated bed the outside one is ground inside is voltage make sure you get them snug down as good as you can and then it's flip-flopped so for the input power this side is positive the inside is negative i'm going to hold off on doing that right now because my wires aren't that long so let's go ahead and plug in our bed thermistor over here bed is right there and let's move to our motors we have x right up here and again i'm using end stop wires y next to that and then my first z motor i'm going to put here on z and my second one i'll put down here on e1 because i want to be able to use that g34 command to level my gantry right there and again i do have end stop switches so we'll hook those up i'm just using the micro switches the two wire ones so if you have the two wire switches like i do i have the best like ground switching them so you're going to want to use the ground pin and the signal pin for these switches it doesn't matter which leg the ground pin is in the center and then the signal pin is going to be over here on this side away from the drivers so we'll put our x right here and then the same config for y right next to it ground and signal i do still have the 2004 display so we can go ahead and plug in our lcd cables exp1 exp2 remember you might have to flip flop these depending if you're using a prusa style screen even ones from ldo or the regular 2004 that should be pretty common nowadays to be able to figure out what screen you need to use and then finally we hook up our power wires remember the polarities flip flop from bed to power power in you have vcc right here and then ground on that side remember these boards do work just fine at 12 volt which we're doing today or 24 shouldn't make a difference and that's it now we're ready to power up we will need to configure some firmware because this is a scratch build but as far as hardware goes we should be all set and i know that hardware install was a complete mess the wires are everywhere and they desperately need to be switched out on log over the years we've done so many different projects it's just a hodgepodge of different things i hope to get them all switched out sometime this year but this should give you the gist of how to get the board installed it is pretty self-explanatory the manual is pretty good as well as the badging on the board but that should get it done but now we need some firmware so let's jump in to configure marlin all right here we go so we are going to configure this from scratch so as usual we just head out to marlinfw.org and we're going to go to downloads and grab the latest release currently as of this video it is 2091. that's some patches from 0.9 we're going to download this zip file when the download is complete you will have a zip and then you can right click extract all and then name it something you can remember i usually just name it the version it will put a folder inside that folder and then that's the folder that i name after the printer so here's our working folder you can open that up i did rename this one as well if you go inside this folder this contains your marlin folder and all your info and on this one i'm just going to add a tag on it i'm going to call it log and then the board skr underscore two and then we can head to vs code and open it up and start making our changes now if you need to know how to set up vs code i did do a video on this recently i will leave a link to that in the description so let's open up vs code we're going to go ahead and add a folder just a quick tip if you have problems with folders you can always go up here to file and you can close your workspace then we're going to go ahead and add a folder head to downloads marlin291 and then we want to add the folder that contains the marlin folder hit add we can expand marlin and then we'll start in configuration.h we're just going to walk through this step by step i'll go pretty quickly but again i will leave this configuration the link to it in the description if you want to edit it i will try to explain this as we go i do have other videos on how to configure marlin so let's change the description we did create it and it's for skr2 and the log printer serial port i'm not 100 sure how the skr2 handles this because there are three ports available in marlin right now but i'm gonna go with my instinct and set this one to negative one so it allows us to use the usb port i don't have a tft screen or wi-fi other options that might run on the serial so this should be just fine we'll continue on 250 000 baud rate that's fine for us and then board name again if you need to know the boards you can go to source over here core boards this is an stm32f4 they are grouped by processor and here is your skr or version 20 rev b notice they do have rev a up here marlin has done a good job to try to tell you that you don't want to use that if you select rev a then it's going to say hey you might damage your drivers if you use these boards get a rev b so we're going to copy rev b go back to configuration.h we'll paste it right here moving on we only have one extruder we are 1.75 filament thermistor settings for the temp sensor on the hot end this is a v6 i use an e3d thermistor so that is number five for the bed i'm using a number one a regular 100k thermistor max and min temps should be fine i don't do a lot of high temp filament on this one even though it is a v6 you could set it to 300 but we'll take the defaults pid settings we will need to tune those we'll come back and do that after the config i'm going to leave all of the end stops to false this is the setting that will invert it if it's not working correctly so if it's triggered when it says it's open or vice versa if it's not acting correctly this is where you toggle that use the m119 to command to troubleshoot it but for now we're just going to set all these to false and we'll test it out later and if we need to switch it we can come back then we move on to the driver settings we do have 2209s so we're going to change all these to tmc2209 and even though we have the driver setting in the e1 driver socket we are using it as a z2 so we're going to uncomment the z2 line and change that to cmc 2209 noise threshold this is something you can enable if you're having problems with faulty triggering on your end stops i don't think log needs it so we'll leave it off for now again we can come back and tweak it if we need to default access steps on log we have 100 for x and y we use four start lead screws so it's 400 and i'm using the mark 3 style extruder at 16 times micro stepping so i set it to 140. for the sake of this video we're just going to take defaults on all the acceleration of feed rates they should work okay we can tweak them later we're going to go with classic jerk so we're going to uncomment this if you leave that comment on it's going to go with junction deviation i prefer classic jerk because it works better with linear advance and i'm going to set my jerk values to eight and eight point three on z should be fine z probe z probe does use z minimum in stop i showed you that before i plugged it into those n stop pins so that settings good there if you have to set it to something different you're going to want to alter this z probe pin setting and set it to the z pro pen that you have it plugged into if you want to use that pro pin on the board the five pins in a row like if you had a bl touch you would set that to pa 10 pa 9 is the servo pen for the bl touch so pa10 would go here we do have a fixed mounted probe take the comment off of that line if you want to use a bltouch just uncomment this one and nothing else and you need to set your probe offsets every hot indesign is going to be just a little bit different this is the offset to where the probe is located versus the nozzle you can use this map up here to help get those settings mine is 23 millimeters to the right of the hotend for x and six millimeters in the back so the back of the nozzle and currently i set my z offset to negative 1.1 that takes some dialing in i usually like to set this with baby stepping just dial it in via the lcd screen you can do that however you wish i have a lot of videos on how to set that up probe margin on this bed i can just set it to zero i have enough room it's a steel sheet so i can probe pretty much anywhere i don't have to avoid any clips or anything like that right here you can enable multiple probes if you want most of the time i do two for this video i'm just going to leave it default so we can get through it a little bit quicker but definitely consider enabling multiple probes that will make it more accurate inverting steppers a lot of times it's just easier to compile with the default settings and then adjust them after the fact you can flip the motor cable over if your plug allows it like a lot of these i have dupont connectors so i could just flip it but on my log configuration i usually go with the defaults false true false that's how i have the plugs configured so it works now on the extruder it is flip-flopped so i set e0 to true homing direction all that is negative one because we home at zero on x y and z bed size this one is 250 in the x to 10 in the y on mine my minimum positions are outside of the bed so i'm actually five millimeters out on the x so i set that to a negative value and then i am negative 2 in the front of the bed so y so negative 2. then xeon log is somewhere around 200 maybe a little bit more but i don't use the leveling where i go to the top of the frame because the frame is not all that level so we'll just leave it at 200 we should be good there next up filament runout sensor we do have one of those so we want to uncomment this line and the only thing i really need to change for this sensor is the state because i'm using that sensor that prusa uses it's an optical sensor it's one of the really small ones and those do trigger high so we'll change it from low to high filament run out script m600 that's the default it's going to work just fine then we get to bed leveling we're just going to stick with auto bed leveling by linear take the comment off of that since we have a steel sheet we can just take the defaults for our probing pattern as well i can get to all those locations i don't have to map them out any longer for now we're just going to take the three by three grid that is nine point level you can use as many as you wish and i'm gonna uncomment z safe homing but i really don't want to use it and if you don't uncomment z safe homing it's going to throw an error you can get around that because it's in a sanity check rule you can just comment that line out but if you use probing it's going to bark about it i don't need to use it because i can probe at 0 0 0 on the corner of the bed and not collide with anything so we're going to fix that after the fact we'll just take that error out so we'll leave that off additional features we will enable eeprom that is handy that's so you can use commands to save settings in eeprom you don't have to actually re-flash the firmware and it will save them in between reboots so we'll leave that enabled we'll change up our temperatures to the ones that i like to use pla 215 bed to 60 no fan abs 255 100 no fan and nowadays if you want to add more you can just add them underneath here just copy all these change the name change the setting and they'll be available in your menu nozzle park you have to have that to be able to use your filament run out sensor and that m600 you have to have a park location so we'll take the comment off of that and i like mine to park in the front right corner so i do x maximum negative 10 so that's all the way to the right minus 10 and then y min positive 10. so that's the band all the way back towards the end stop plus 10 and then z will take 20 wherever you're currently at so we're good there then down in lcd settings there's a couple of things i like to change up first one being reverse encoder direction i do like to do this most of these screens run in the opposite direction i like it to go clockwise down counterclockwise up so that's why i reverse it here we're going to turn the speaker on speaker slash buzzer so we do have audio and going back up just a little bit because i missed it but we do need to take the comment off of sd support so we can use our sd card now we need to select our screen again i have the 2004 display which is the riprap discount smart controller this one right here and now we're all set with configuration.h but there are some things in configuration underscore adv dot h that we have to set so we'll jump in there so here in configuration underscore adv dot h there's just a couple of things that we need to configure we need to configure those fans to be set correctly i have to adjust some thermal settings and linear advance but we don't have to deal with a whole lot in here so let's just start scrolling through the first thing we come to are the thermal runaway settings there's a couple of different settings here i've described these before but on this printer it's 12 volt and the bed heats really slowly so you can hit thermal runaway really easily so we want to adjust those and there's two different settings there's watch and then there's thermal protection watch is just if you enter to come in and you're waiting for it to heat up the thermal protection is during the print so during the print if it fluctuates 22 degrees one way or the other within 20 seconds it's going to throw thermal run away again mine's really slow so i set mine to 90 seconds and don't change these up if you don't know what you're doing because this can save you from your printer burning down but i use these settings all the time we should be safe and then watch again when you use commands i usually increase these to 120 seconds from 60. that just gives it time because again this bed does heat really slowly so that's it has to change two degrees in two minutes a setting that i've been using lately is hot end idle timeout this is something you've started to see on a lot of 3d printers if you preheat your nozzle and you let it set there maybe you forget about it this will shut it off in a certain amount of time preventing the filament from charring inside the hot end this can be really handy and it should probably be on every 3d printer nowadays but the defaults are pretty good it gives you five minutes to start printing and the minimum trigger temp 180 is usually fine i'm always over 180 even if it's pla you can adjust these if you wish but i recommend you go ahead and try to enable this on your printers the next setting for this board that you might be interested in is use controller fan now i don't have a controller fan but printers like ninja 3 there's a lot of them out there that have a fan on there by default since this board has three pwm fans that you can control in g-code this might be a great use for it you can set it up however you wish if you want to adjust the pin do it right here i'm not using pb5 on this board so that might be the one you want to use and then you can set how it's triggered as well has how long it spins how fast it spins all that good stuff this can be really useful if you have your board inside a case tucked somewhere like my sk go it has a fan on the drivers this might be a great use so keep that in mind for us i plugged our hot end fan e0 fan into pb 6. remember pb7 is our part fan so that will allow me to adjust what temperature that fan kicks on and what speed i'm just going to leave it default 50 degrees on the hot end is fine full blast i want as much cooling as possible for that v6 if you need to know these pin assignments you can check the pins file so go over here to source go down to pins and again you have an stm32f4 there's a lot of different boards and there's usually always a common file if there's multiple boards like this one there's a rev a and rev b so if you check rev b the board we have it's going to point you straight back to the common file so go to common if you scroll through you can get all the pin numbers they should match up with the back of the board and then here's your fans so if you need a pin number this is how you get them or just go with the back of the board back to configuration underscore adv dot h we should be good there for our hot end fan we'll keep on going then i am using multiple z steppers so again the z stepper driver and the e1 so we're going to set it to two we don't need to adjust the signals but if you had a plug that was crisscrossed or something like that you can adjust the direction for those motors right here i find it just as easy to flip the cable over and i don't have multiple end stops so that will allow us to use both of those z motors moving on i like to use g34 that's the main reason for those two motors so we're going to take the comment off of this line this will allow us to use that g34 command and it uses the probe down here you can set up all kinds of attributes on this command set i have a whole video on this i'll leave it in the description we'll move on for now come down to baby stepping i do like to use this for my z pro offset so we're going to take the comment off here i like to enable double click for z baby stepping so you can click the knob twice and pull it up that's only during a print you can set that as well if you'd like and i like to adjust the z probe offset with that baby step setting so we'll take the comment off here so that way with a setup like this where you have a z probe you know that offset between prints and you can go update eprom to the next section we have linear advance i highly recommend you try to use this if you can we'll take the comment off of linear advance there's not much you need to set up here i do like to set the k value to zero i have lots of videos on how to use this links in the description but this really does improve your print quality so we want to use that for sure probe margins if you need to set them you can set them right here read the directions really carefully because that's going to tell you how those margins are affected they're a little different than they used to be and then the last thing we need to be worried about is advanced pause feature because we have to have this to use our filament run out sensor and our m600 these are all the attributes that you need to set up on how your filament is treated when it's being loaded or unloaded the lengths all that good stuff i can go with defaults for now because it's not a huge issue but you do want to tailor this to your hot end it's most critical if you have a bowdoin tube how much you need to kick out to make this work i do like to enable the filament load and unload g codes 701 and 702 that way you can use them in your code and then one more section if you want to take a look has trinamic you can set up all your default currents here most of these don't need to be this high around 800 it depends on your printer leave them default if the motors are getting hot then you can come and adjust it later if you're using sensorless homing all the settings are down here below it's stealth chop by default i don't have any problems with stealth chop so i leave it that way make sure if you're using a different voltage i'm using 12 volt that chopper timing is set because that can help you with noise so mine is on 12 volt i do like to enable monitor driver status if you happen to need to troubleshoot something we're not using sensorless homing but tmc debug is always helpful so we'll take the comment off of that and we should be good everything else in the configuration should be set default we might have to tweak a few things later but this should get us up and going on our skr2 now we need to build the firmware and normally what i would do is go over here to the platform i o icon and i would find the board that i was going to build for there is a slot for big treetech skr2 again it is that 4 processor the f4 but there's an environment for it so if you expand you can go ahead and hit build you can't upload on these stm32 processors you're going to have to take your firmware put on the sd card all that good stuff but there is a plug-in for marlin that takes some of the guesswork out of this so we're going to go ahead and install that now we should really be using that going forward we don't want to guess because a lot of these boards are different and because of that board setting it's going to be able to tell you what board you need to use so we're going to go to extensions just search for marlin and auto build marlin is the one you want and just hit install after the install is complete you have your marlin icon over here and then you can go up here to the hammer icon that's marlin build it's going to read your configuration that you just created and select the proper board if there's multiples it will give you a choice but this way you don't have to guess now we did have errors but that was expected remember i was telling you about z safe homing it's going to throw a sanity check error and you can see it right here it wants you to enable that because we have a probe again i don't need to probe in the middle i can probe on the corner so i'm just going to disable that sanity check so back to the explorer after you have that error it's going to highlight it in red so it tells you where that error is so it's in inc sanitycheck.h and we'll just control f and search for z underscore safe and this is the error we're throwing i don't need to use it so we're just going to make it a comment by putting two slashes in front of it we commented it out so then back to the marlin extension and we'll hit build again and this time we are successful so now we have a really good basic config we need to get it over to the printer remember stm32 processor we can't upload it directly so we need to hand truck that file over sneakernet so the easiest way for me go back to explorer and you're going to have a dot pio directory expand that and expand build then you should have one for your board or processor expand that one and your firmware dot bin is going to be right in here right click on that reveal in file explorer there's your file right click and copy and put it on an sd card if you're having problems with the sd card i highly suggest you format it fat so right click on it format just make sure it's a fat or fat32 file system and it should work quick format is just fine once it's formatted we can right click paste on our firmware dot bin now we're ready to load that card on the board and power up with our new firmware now remember we're just doing this marlin install for this video this board will run marlin or reprap firmware but to get the most used out of reprap in my opinion you're going to need a wi-fi module that way you can use the dwc and control this whole thing via a web browser they do have those i'll leave a link in the description but grab one of those if you want to run reprap on it so the install is pretty much done we've tested a few things now we just need to do a test print [Music] and there's our benchy this filament is nebula multicolor from protopasta if you want to check this stuff out it's a really cool filament my benchy didn't come out the best but it's really not the skr board's fault it's more log's fault i've got problems with my part cooling fan my heater isn't as hot as it used to be i need to switch it out again log really just needs an overhaul the benchy here really isn't going to tell you much about the board or anything like that anyway it's just we want to prove that we did get a print so there it is the next generation of skr board from big tree tech the skr2 now it does solve some issues that the one three and one four board had and it offers a lot more features especially since you have a lot more fan plugs i like to see that so you can control them all again i did have a lot of qc issues getting started and the skr2 launch was just a little bit rocky but hopefully big treetech gets all that sorted out things will get a whole lot more consistent going forward now i didn't show every step of a board install in this video remember you need to do a pid tune tune your extruder calibrate your printer after you do a swap like this because not every board is going to be the same it's not going to run the mosfets the heaters it's not going to be the same across the board so make sure you tune anytime you switch a board out and i also said that you can run rip rap firmware and marlin on this board if you want to run reprap consider getting the wi-fi module with your order hopefully you found this helpful that is it for today and i'll see you really soon on the next one

Channel: Chris Riley

Views: 15,494

Keywords: 3D, printer, Printing, 3D Printing, 3D Printer, ChrisBasement, ChrissBasement, Chris'sBasement, Chris Basement, Chriss Basement, Chris's Basement, ChrisRiley, Chris Riley, benchy, 3dbenchy, 3d, BTT, Big Tree Tech, SKR 2, Mainboards, Marlin, Marlin Configuration, Driver Install, Board Installation

Id: 1PPBHn-jU0k

Length: 46min 13sec (2773 seconds)

Published: Wed Oct 13 2021