Creality Ender 5 Plus - Assembly Guide and Startup Tips - Special Build Series

hey guys what's up welcome to my channel my name is frank and today we're building an ender 5 plus so this is actually the start to something pretty cool that i've been excited about for quite a while uh first off huge shout out to creality for sending me this ender five plus uh they they want to do a cool little collaboration project i finally kind of caught their attention in the right way thanks to my mark 85 cosplay it was printed entirely on creality printers and they really haven't let me down since uh they're great cheap affordable all of that and i've told you guys the bad things the things that break the things that go wrong and you know they're diy hobby printers but once you get them working right they are absolutely wonderful so what we're gonna do is we're gonna build this ender five plus and we're gonna actually take this through a whole series of videos we're gonna build the under five plus we're gonna throw some pretty simple upgrades on it we're gonna tune it and calibrate it and tighten it up and talk about the things that could go wrong and the things that you really never have to worry about and then we're actually gonna print something pretty cool on it now creality wanted me to print an entire suit on just an ender 5 plus i don't have the time for that i have a lot of other projects going on and honestly putting it on just one printer might take me a little bit so we compromised and what i'm actually going to be doing is using just this printer alone to print an iron man bust similar to this now i haven't quite decided on what mark i want to do yet i that's the cool thing about this i have a little bit of free reign i have a little bit of time to decide just what i want to make now i can make the mark 85 it's kind of turned into a little bit of my staple which i get i could do something a little bit new maybe like the mark 42 maybe the iconic mark iii i don't know yet but by the time we get to that point this will be built calibrated upgraded whatever the heck we need to do to this thing so in this first video we're gonna be building the ender five plus exclusively we're gonna go through build this it's gonna be a little bit of a time lapse i'm gonna slow down and talk about the real crucial points and things that may might be confusing in the instructions but let's jump right in so aside from using this tiny knife i'm actually going to use all the tools that are provided to build this printer turn it on make sure everything is good so let's get this started we have the build plate already assembled to the rails and the leveling knobs with the heater and the bed thermistor already kind of installed so this can go off to the side this is the top of the printer itself the upper basically the upper gantry this is the entire x and y control up here be careful not to just let this slam shut and move around so we're gonna throw this on the ground for now over in this corner we have the actual frame rails all bundled up together we have the left and right carriages and these are the actual z motors box of tools and goodies hanging off to the side there is so much foam in this now this was a little bit of the tricky part actually getting all the wires and the control box out of the print print box pretty sure that's everything so let's put all the phone back in here and get rid of this [Music] so we've got everything nulled out over here and if you don't know what nulling is it's actually taking all the parts when you're building something kind of laying everything out getting an idea of what you're actually working with now we're not fully annulled yet we haven't opened up the parts box yet we haven't opened up the rails we haven't unwrapped this but this is basically what you're going to end up with you're going to end up with your control box you're going to want to inspect all your wires make sure all your plugs are still intact and nothing's kind of missing or looks like it got torn off you're going to have eight frame rails your guide your filament holder a little roll of filament to kind of get you started some simple pla you're going to have your guide frames here and you're going to want to make sure that these aren't bent or warped or anything so be careful when messing around with these if these aren't straight your bed isn't going to be able to move up and down properly and make sure these spin your z-rods and you can actually see as i spin it this wants to move up and down your box apart so we're going to go over this a little bit later your bed make sure nothing's cracked this is glass so just be careful when you're taking this off it is clipped on but hey you never know and like i said don't let this slide and move around too much again you're going to want to inspect these wires and make sure nothing's broke [Music] let's go ahead and break off all the saran wrap that's holding the bed and everything together handy dandy instruction booklet i wish it was actually as detailed as the ender 3's build a lot happens really quickly and we'll be going over this now for building sake i'm going to leave the plastic on this just until we actually get it on the printer so with this out the instructions removed we can go ahead and move this to the side too let's go ahead and open up all these [Music] rods let's go ahead and crack open this little box of goodies and get everything out here [Music] so we have some clips for holding our cables our sd card and sd card reader our usb cable most of the hardware and some extra parts for building the printer and all the tools we're gonna need to actually put this in together and my absolute favorite tool that comes with creality 3d printers a putty knife and this is actually a little bit of a better putty knife has a pretty nice sharp edge so be careful with that and your power cable so let's open all of this up cool so right off the bat i just want to talk about a couple of these things before we start things we're not going to use things we're going to use we're not going to need our data cable yet or usb cable you're really not going to need to mess with this it's good to go right out of the box this is for flashing firmware or controlling it from your computer so we're going to put that away these are some guide clips for actually cable management but we're not going to utilize these and i'll explain later uh on why we don't do that this right here this cool little needle that's in the foam don't poke yourself it's really sharp this is your nozzle cleaner and you're only going to use this later if you actually have some issues or clogs in your nozzle the usb stick with the micro sd card now i just want to say uh god bless creality and their printers however this microsd reader will give you issues i've never had good luck with them however the micro sd card the 8 gig that these usually come with is actually pretty good and these last pretty long and they're pretty good speed but the reader itself isn't the best so if you're having trouble with your g-code and you're having some weird issues replace this this screwdriver we're really not going to need this at all right now a couple spare parts uh there's an extra little probe for your bl touch some extra couplers and clips so make sure you keep these in a safe place and remember that you have them and then our putty knife and we're not going to need this right now because we don't actually have a print so we can just push this off to the side so everything's safe in there we can put that away over here we have zip ties for cable management some 5 by 30 bolts we have some 4x10 bolts some 5x25 our wrenches our allen keys and the best thing ever brand new blue nippers i love these things i also love when the bottom of them blow out and then you have a nice hole but these are in pristine condition and i have a couple sets of these now that i don't use because i'm afraid of ruining them slowly but eventually they will turn into this that's just covered in duct tape but still serve the same purpose i'm going to substitute these out because i don't want to mess these up so we have everything set out i think we're kind of good to go to start actually assembling the body in the frame so let's start with the actual base and we're going to what we're going to do is kind of aim this towards us and have the control box facing us so all four of these guys these uh frame rails there's actually some holes sitting right here at the top and you want to actually orient these so they're at the top of the printer don't put them on upside down just stand them up and you're going to go ahead and grab your 2 by 25 bolts and these are actually going to go through the bottom of your frame into the printer itself so we're going to go around stand all four of them up and get these screws out for the time being just throw these in hand tight before we actually go around and tighten all them with our allen keys when tightening these up you want to make sure they're nice and tight but don't hulk these down don't try to absolutely smash and bend and warp the metal these are aluminum frames so you can do some damage to them so just be careful with that but tight is tight and they'll square up pretty nicely on their own just the way that they're designed i lied before we're actually going to go ahead and put on the top part of the printer now so this sits on in a pretty similar relation to the bottom of the frame except it hangs over the side and you're going to make sure that the extruder and the filament sensor are to the back of the printer itself and just lay that down make sure you don't drop it or you know accidentally damage it so the sides of the frame are going to line up with the holes in the rail that you oriented to the top of the printer if there are no holes there you might have installed the rod the rail upside down these are going to get the the exact same screws that you put in on the bottom the m25s and just go ahead and throw these in there's one on the top of each one and then one on the side [Music] now if you're having trouble lining all these holes up especially with these little bits of tight clearances go ahead and actually tilt the printer back over and you can loosen the bottom frames again you might have over tightened them they might have gone on a little crooked or copped so don't be afraid to kind of loosen some things rearrange it kind of hand tighten everything in and make sure it lines up once everything's lined up go ahead and tighten everything down i forgot to mention it before when tightening everything down make sure you're using the flat side of your allen key you can run everything down with the round side like a screwdriver once you actually have to put real force into it get rid of the rounded side and use the flat side to torque it the last thing you want to do is strip these out now you probably are never going to take this thing apart but just in the off chance you do it's a good habit to get into especially when disassembling things like your hot end those are some screws you don't want to strip out and risk breaking [Music] all right those are all tight good to go everything seems to move let's move the next step next up is actually putting on the lift frames now there is no difference left and right but there is very very much of up and down make sure your motor is at the bottom just really mimic the pictures the best indication i can give you for which one's left and right even though it really doesn't matter is the direction of your z motor the plug aim it towards the back of the printer so this one the plugs on the facing the camera so for my orientation it's going to be the left one slide them in carefully and make sure you don't break anything and you'll actually see two holes here and two holes down here on the top and bottom of the rails that they're actually going to screw into so you can just lean that there for now and you're going to go ahead and you grab your m30s and there should only be just enough of these and throw them in now you have the four on the top and the four corners one two three four and now there's four at the bottom you have to go and do [Music] so these are where the four screws go on the top one two three and four and then if you're looking from behind the printer it mirrors it on the bottom one two three and four so this is the orientation it should look like and i have the motors aimed backwards though if they are aimed forwards it's not the end of the world the cables are plenty long enough to make it all the way back there so with this all up now what we're going to move into is actually getting our bed onto the printer what i would suggest doing is moving your y-axis all the way back until it hits the end stop nothing's plugged in so we can move everything by hand make sure your nozzle is kind of in the center and if your plates that your bed go on with these these lead screws are too high up we're going to want to drop them down a couple inches this way you can get the bed in there so you can just spin these by hand since nothing's plugged in and at the best i would try to eyeball it maybe kind of drop down to a level and keep them fairly even but it's not the end of the world if they're not perfect just yet so i dropped them down a little bit and we could put the bed on so we're going to want to orient the bed this way we can read the ender logo with the whole printer facing us be careful when putting this in it is glass and you don't want to break it and make sure your wires aren't pinching anywhere and the only screws you should have left are the four by tens the little silver screws and we can go ahead and start installing these [Music] so once you have the screws kind of started don't tighten any of them down until you have them all kind of pre-threaded just by hand because what you're going to want to do is tighten one side and that's going to level the bed up or down hopefully up and what's going to happen is the other side is going to want to kick up like a seesaw so then what you can do is spin the other screw up and down until it's now level and kind of pushing up against it this way you're not accidentally warping or bending anything so with everything tightened the next thing it wants you to do is put on your filament holder now a warning the picture has you put the filament holder on right about here sitting behind the printer with the actual arm facing into the printer and i want to show you why that can be a little bit of a problem so the instructions would have you mount the filament holder in the back of the printer aimed forward now say you run out of filament and your print bed is level with the actual printer with the actual filament holder you're not going to be able to get this filament off now that's just annoying so yes you could get a screwdriver in there or an allen key and disassemble your entire spool holder or what you can do is just flip it the other way it's a pretty simple fix but it's something you really might not think about until it unfortunately kind of hinders you and slows you down when you're trying to do a filament change whenever i try to put the filament holder on what i'll do i'll just disassemble it so i have a little bit more of a straight line actually get to the metal and the actual set screws another little word of advice that i've noticed uh on one or two printers is you want to actually bend the spool holder a little bit now the way i'm looking at this the spool holder is sitting perfectly kind of perpendicular to the frame and what can happen is as this starts to spin and spin sometimes this can act i've seen it only happen twice but this can roll off and we don't want the spool holder actually falling off where we're going so this is a pretty light grade aluminum you can actually grab this and just bend it just a little so it's actually cocked up just a little and the spool holder is always going to want to fall in instead of out so now with the spool holder on the printer built it's time to kind of plug everything in and now this is where you can take as much time as you want doing your cable management making everything look pretty utilizing the zip ties it came with but for the sake of the video we're kind of going to get everything plugged in and don't judge my mess i am going to go back eventually and reroute everything a little bit cleaner now before i start that i want to talk about this thing this travesty to justice this must this is probably the only thing i don't like about this printer is this beefy bulky just mess of wires now you can see your bowden tube sitting here and this is going to get locked in here but i'm not going to lock that in just yet i want to cut out and get rid of the sheathing it's a lot of weight you don't need it it's going to make paying attention to your bowden tube a lot more of a pain it's going to put a wicked bend on your bowden tube and we don't want that so we're going to strip this entire thing back this will actually reveal your bowden tube and the actual wire to your hot end and your bl touch and i'm going to go ahead and clip the other zip tie that's on this now you can already see most likely that your bowden tube has this nasty kink in it now you can try to work this out you can try to do whatever you want with this but in all honesty in the future video we're going to talk about why you're going to want to get rid of this white uh bowden tube and upgrade it to a ptfe capricorn tube but for the time being this should work just fine we're not going to worry about the bone tube yet we're going to move that out of the way and we're going to worry about the cable management of everything else now everything is nice and labeled in this you shouldn't have too much of trouble figuring out where everything goes the instructions do give pretty good pictures on where your x y and z all are and if you have a good understanding of how the printer is built it'll make it go a lot quicker those are your two z motors your left and right it doesn't matter which one goes to which this is your y motor right here with a plug right down there this is your extruder your filament sensor your y end stop with a little trigger your x end stop with a little trigger your x motor and this is your the whole plug system to your hot end and your actual fan and your bl touch so let's go and get everything plugged in [Music] um [Music] so we have everything plugged in now we're ready to go i'm just going to spend a minute or two throwing some zip ties on this to temporarily hold it because this is just a mess [Music] all right i have everything kind of routed nicely there's a little uh hole here you can use to secure the y and i have it ran down the frame it's a little bit cleaner you're going to want to leave the bed cables pretty loose this way as the bed travels up and down you have room and i was able to move everything over this way now i want to talk about the bowden tube and this whole kind of mess up top here so now that everything's kind of built assembled i want to talk about a few things you're going to want to pay extra close attention to before you actually go turn this on you know home it level it for the first time okay and the first thing is your actual hot end and your x-axis so you want to make sure that it moves pretty freely but make sure while you're doing this that it isn't actually plugged in over here to the stepper this way it moves nice and free and you're not sending power into the printer itself so this i can move this as much as i want it's not plugged in now these should move pretty good right out of the box if they're moving too freely the next thing i want you to do is actually grab the whole assembly itself and try to rock it back and forth now you'll see this on the forums a lot where somebody people will grab this and they'll ask is this loose does this look right no it doesn't look right so what you're going to want to look for is underneath it you have the three wheels the two on the top and the one on the back the one in the back actually has a washer uh nut on it that has some flat sides and it just so happens your little double ended wrench here the large part fits perfectly on that nut that's on the bottom roller wheel this is called your eccentric nut and there's a couple of these scattered around the printer so as you as you rotate this you'll actually be able to rotate that nut left and right as you rotate it this whole assembly is going to get a lot looser or as you rotate it the other way it's going to get tighter so you're going to want to wobble it back and forth back and forth while tightening it until it doesn't wobble anymore you want to get it to just that point but no tighter because you don't want to over tighten it because you still want this to move nice and free but you don't want to wobble the things on the printer should only move in the directions they're designed to your x should only move left and right in your x direction your y should only move forward and back your z should only move up and down if these things are moving in directions in ways they're not meant to you're going to get bad layer lines ghosting you're going to get all these problems so take some time to look this over and make sure everything's how it's supposed to be with this moving good i would go and kind of do something similar to the whole top of the printer the y so again make sure you unplug your motor and this will move freely and there's eccentric nuts there's one here one here one here and one here that's what's actually holding this top rail to the whole frame now you really won't have too much of a problem with this one what you can do is try to twist this left and right but since there's four rollers it's really hard for it to be wobbly this should move absolutely perfectly i i've never seen anybody actually have this top gantry have any issues so this moves pretty freely but just know you do have the options to adjust the tension uh on the rollers themselves now the next thing i want to talk to you about is this boat this stop white bowden tube and where it actually goes into your hot end in your nozzle so what i want you to do is take this clip off take the blue clip off and then what you're going to have to do is push down on this white lock and lift the tube up at the same time so push down and pull the tube out this will probably be the easiest this tube ever comes out for you because this printer's never been heated uh actually turned on and heated up so this is the bottom of your bowden tube and you can actually see right from the factory mine isn't cut flush it has a little bit of an angle right at the top there well the reason i pulled this out two reasons i want to make sure it's seated all the way in and i want to make sure that this bottom part right here is cut flush now there's a couple different methods you can use to cut this i wouldn't really recommend using those snippers that came with the printer itself they're sharp but they're just more of a crushing cutting feature trying to get your hands on a razor you can actually get your hands on one of these that come with the new boating capricorn tubes and they're literally made exactly for this for putting in here and cutting the boat into perfectly flush and clean so now i can put this back in there and not have to worry about it but one other thing i'm going to do is to make sure that this stays all the way in the coupler i'm actually going to take a razor or something even sandpaper and i'm going to actually scuff and scratch the outside of this tube to give it a little bit more bite especially around here where it actually grips into the coupler so i know you can't see it's white you can see it just here at the bottom i scored it up just make sure you don't crush cut or damage it i was just giving it a little bit more bite surface now this goes into the the coupler a lot farther than you think it does i mean you can just see right there where the old white mark was and i've obviously cut a little bit off so this is going to go very far in there and it's going to bottom all the way out you're going to want to make sure that's pushed in there nice and good and then you're going to throw your little blue lock back on and now you know for a fact that is cut nice and flush before you ever put any filament to it this tube runs all the way through the hot end right to the bottom of the nozzle and you don't want any gap there if it's if it's off just a little some filament's going to leak out and you're going to start having a bad day while you're looking at all this you can this is actually a good time to kind of check everything over make sure all these screws are tight right here make sure everything's good to go nothing's wobbling your bl touch is straight everything's plugged in this looks perfect now for cable management's sake i actually went and attached that white wire to my actual extruder over here and i'm gonna do the same thing now if you're gonna have a failure somewhere with your bowdoin tube it's going to be on the extruder so the reason i took didn't put this tubing yet was again to make sure that the end is cut flush it doesn't really necessarily matter on this side but that's just my ocd kind of kicking in and then i'm also going to score up the back a lot because this i don't want this to pop out and if you've ever seen a spaghetti or a bowden tube blow out you know exactly what this is and this is a good way to prevent it so with this all squared up now i'm just going to go ahead throw that in and this one doesn't go in anywhere near as much as the other one and i'm going to go and get a blue clip out of my spare parts bag and throw it on there that's all good so everything's assembled we made sure our hot end is good our boating tube is good and reinforced we know that's not just going to randomly pop out on us now cable management's done now you don't have this big heaping weight dragging this down now now what i'm going to do is i'm going to go and take two more zip ties and i'm going to actually reattach them to the bowden tube but now it's more of a kind of a little bit of a helper it's just a much more stable system now without all that crazy extra tension with all the extra zip ties and then that uh wire loom that was going over all this now again make sure your motor is actually unplugged before you do this i can go move everything around everything bundles up nice it's not drooping it's not getting all messed up i can move it move it to its absolute farthest point i think we're ready to turn this thing on power it up start heating it up and get our filament in and run our first test print now removed we're plugged in i ran an extension cord because i had no free sockets in the room so before you actually power it on though make sure that your nozzle is actually kind of more into the middle of the printer because when the printer powers on your bl touch is going to do a self-test feature and you don't want it hitting anything and risking breaking the best part of all of this [Music] so this is like a premium glass bed you can actually see it kind of reflecting a little bit it has a micro porous surface this has very very good adhesion i've actually upgraded a couple of my other printers to this after using it i was sworn stuck on magnetic beds but i'm starting to kind of fall in love with this thing uh you're going to have a real good time using this just be careful not to scratch it or damage it so now everything is assembled everything's plugged in we're good to go let's turn it on so you want to make sure that your bl touch isn't in the way of anything because it's going to do a little springy self-test motion so you don't you want to make sure that it's not pushed all the way like over here and where it can collide with something so the first thing we're going to want to do is we're going to want to level this thing out and make sure everything's good to go but before we do that we're going to heat it up so go to temp automatic and pla so it's going to start heating up to a predetermined temperature but you can also go ahead and enter this in manually so i'm actually going to put this up to 200 and we're going to make the bed 60. so the touchscreen is pretty nice on these cooling turn the fan off tons of settings and we're going to go into this in a minute and then print there's nothing on there with everything nice and warm we're going to go ahead and do our first auto level and see what how everything goes so we're gonna go into settings we're gonna go to leveling it's gonna take us through an xyz so it's gonna move the nozzle all the way over to that trigger it's gonna move the y all the way back and then it's gonna move the z up if it goes out of the sequence something's hooked up wrong and that's it and it you can't really see it unfortunately but there is a little bit of a distance between the nozzle and the actual uh print bed but that's okay for now so we're going to go back down here and we're actually going to turn on auto leveling everything's zero right now so we're going to go home ahead and actually hit measure and what this is going to do it's going to run a 16 cycle a 16 point test and it's going to go to all 16 points on the bed measure it measure it measure it measure it it's going to move all the way around and it's going to give you a nice amount of values to see just how unlevel or level the bed is and then you can adjust from here [Music] and these are the results of our little auto leveling and the bed isn't too bad you can see that we're .25 negative 0.25 in the back left corner and negative 1.4 or 0.14 so it's not too bad the this this this bottom corner is um still a little bit higher than the back but i think i'm kind of okay with this i could chase these numbers all day long and try to get them perfect and even but i'm all right with that now there's a couple things you can do here so one thing you can do is z home and that's going to measure your z home again and if you don't have one now my other ender 5 plus came with this this one did not but this is a 0.2 millimeter feeler gauge and it even tells you to use it in the instructions right here and what you're going to do is you're going to hit that z home button and you're going to make sure that this feeler gauge can actually pass perfectly under your nozzle with no obstructions so if it passes through freely you can lower it down point one and then try it again so now it touches so i'm gonna go back up it passes through so that's perfect that's exactly where this wants to be then we're going to go through and actually do our auxiliary leveling and check all of our corners now this is very similar to the leveling you'll do on like an ender or a cr10s where it'll give you the options to go to each of the corners or the center of the bed and use a piece of paper now sticky note works absolutely great and this is actually why we make sure we heat everything up you want to level the bed when everything's hot metal expands when it's hot whatever bed you're using can warp and expand just a little bit so when you're leveling heat it up to the temperature you're printing at and then level your bed so it's going to start in the center and we're going to start with two now i'll always keep the sticky note underneath it and if i can't move it around i'll immediately try to turn the printer off so when using the sticky note you're going to want to feel the sticky note just barely touching the nozzle it shouldn't grab it shouldn't crinkle or crumple it shouldn't be a force to pull through so you're going to do this in every corner and my i can just barely feel the nozzle touching the sticky note if i just pull it ever so lightly and if that that's not the case use your adjustment knobs go up and down be very careful and remember as you adjust one corner it's gonna move the entire bed so just be careful when moving around i'll leave the sticky note there and i'll go to three so it's going to lower it and as it's moving i'm keeping the sticky note there to make sure it's not grinding into my bed that one feels perfect too let's go to the back one all right that one grabs just a little so when you actually move the knob let go of it before you test the paper again all right that's good and we'll do the last corner oh that's perfect so we can back out of this and you can spend all day adjusting that and getting it absolutely perfect and these are our numbers again and we have all the leveling on so when the printer is actually running it's actually going to help compensate and using these numbers to automatically adjust the bed when it's actually going and printing so we can z home again and center it i'm happy with these level numbers if these are confusing guys honestly the instructions for leveling the under five plus are actually pretty good just follow them carefully make sure everything's coming out good it actually gives you some pretty nice pictures um there's tons of other videos on this and we can talk about this a little bit more later in another video but i don't want to spend too much time on leveling because it can really eat up a whole video so with that let's load up some filament and get a test print going so this is the filament that the ender 5 came with it's some kind of cheaper white pla now i want to warn you you can see how just um neat this is wrapped up and by need i mean not um i want to warn you that if you're having trouble with your first couple prints if things aren't coming out the way you want them to get better pla the pla they send in these isn't the best and it can cause a lot more problems than it's worth so just get rid of it and get yourself some quality pla what i'll do is i'll cut the little bit off before i load it pull that out and the part that i'm going to feed into the printer i'm going to cut it perfectly nice and flush and then i'm going to actually go and do my best to straighten it out so now it's nice and straight and then we're going to come over put it on our our bent spool holder so it doesn't fall off we're going to pass this through our filament run out sensor [Music] and you can hear it click on and off and then you're going to actually feed it up into the extruder and you'll see it pass all the way through you can see it right in there now you're going to grab this lever arm right here and there should be a good amount of spring tension on it and you're going to feed the filament through now there's a hole right up here that this filament should start running all the way through and you'll be able to push it all the way through your boating tube now if this isn't the case and you can't get it through pull it back out cut the edge again and try to feed it up that's perfect so it's going through oh i hit a little bit of resistance and i can actually see it going through my tube now once you feel a hard resistance and you think you're at the end of the nozzle pull it back just a little bit so there it is i'm going to pull it back and we're ready to go let's send off our first test print and see how it comes out so we're going to pull our sd card out throw it in the printer a little sd card slot right here on the side it's upside down we're gonna go to print and there's nothing there for some reason reality isn't sending test prints on the ender five plus i don't know why so we're actually gonna have to go and slice eventually real quick i'm going to do it super fast it's not part of this video it's going to be for the next video on actually getting this thing dialed in but we're going to get a test print go to thingiverse i'll leave a link down below drop the benchy in the cura and just slice up some really simple g-code you can even get calibration tests and pre-made g-code for printers exactly like this so i went and sliced up just a simple benchy and there he is so if you're using any uh reality printer a cr-10 max a cr10s pro another five plus and it has this touch screen and you know you put g code on that sd card but it's not popping up here shorten the name it's something that throws everybody for a loop just go into the file itself in your computer make the name shorter if it's longer than this character field it won't display it and it i've seen people troubleshoot things for hours new g-code uninstalling and reinstalling i saw somebody swap out a main board one time before they actually came to this conclusion i don't know why it's like this but that's just how things are so we're heated up we're level let's send the print now i think this is something a lot of people are unfortunately afraid to do they're afraid they seem skittish about watching their first prime line that first little bit where actually primes the printer itself and you're watching it go while it's starting you can adjust the printer and get that nice perfect first layer so please don't be afraid of that so it's going to find its center home and then it's going to go through and it's going to get another reading of the actual the level of the bed so even though the printer's all heated up and we know we leveled it before before every print since you have the auto leveling set it's going to go through and do the same measurements all 16 points before it actually pumps out this print and while it's going it's gonna actually compensate for that by moving the bed [Music] so while this finishes while this is actually about to start printing what i'll always do is i'll open up this adjust feature right here and you can auto adjust your um you can adjust while the printer is going that actual z height so as it starts this first prime line and it starts to go i'm gonna watch that prime line like a hawk and if it isn't coming out and you're under extruding raise the nozzle up and vice versa if you're not if you're not close enough so i just caught it on the end because my filament wasn't pushed all the way through yet and my prime line is looking absolutely great you can even try to pull it that looks good and my first layer is sticking this is the first print on the sender five plus and it's already got some pretty good bed adhesion and i'm really happy with that [Music] now real quick what do you say we uh just turn it off oops power loss see the bl touch hitting resume previous print yes so now the bed temp is up and there goes the nozzle tip now say i did actually turn that off and i didn't want to cancel the print always turn your printer back on a good way is to cycle power turn it off kill the print turn it back on because you're going to turn it off and your nozzle is going to be at that temperature you don't want that to happen let it cool down if i was doing a cycle power kill the print i still need to cool the printer off so turn it back on the print will have stopped but the fans will kick in to actually start cooling everything down so just remember that now you can see right here energy saving mode is on now what this does is after the first couple layers hold on let's see so it does remember where it was it's going to xyz that's coming up pretty nice i don't know why that went so fast that was kind of scary it's working now our bl touch is still in an error state because it wasn't able to actually do itself test so that's going to flash this whole time but it already has its measurements from the previous print so you're not going to have to worry about that now right here you can see economic motor energy saving mode and what that's going to do is after a couple of certain layers it's actually going to turn off your bed temperature now this you can you leave this you can turn it off i always turn it off because i want to have my bed hot the entire time i print very tall parts i want my pla to stick some prints don't really need it some pla doesn't need it goes back and forth i use pla plus a lot and i leave economic mode off this way my bed stays hot the entire time so guys i think that just about does it for this video i know that was a long one and i really hope you guys followed along if you were building it under five plus or you maybe had one and just wanted to learn something new i wanted it to feel like i was more in the room with you kind of helping you build this i didn't want to this be some you know really just over exasperated uh build tutorial i just wanted to feel like we were hanging out you know um and i hope that was conveyed over properly i'm really excited to do this project and i hope through all this you guys can learn more about the printers and a lot of the stuff i'm going to teach and talk about through this whole series can be applied to a multitude of printers not just reality printers not just artillery printers or tivo or whatever a 3d printer is kind of a 3d printer take your time understand the components understand what goes into it the belts the steppers the motors the bowden tube maybe you have a direct drive the uh the fake core x y's that are similar to this the real core xy's the beds that move there's so much the 3d printing but once you start understanding a little bit of a corner of it it starts to really help you flow into everything else so i really hope i've uh you know either kept your interest through all of this and taught you something please let me know down below if you're really interested in this if you want me to do other build videos like this with the cr-10s with the ender 3 with the cr-10 max i'll i'd be glad to strip one down put it back in the box and rebuild the whole thing so we'll see how that goes um this benchy's coming out pretty quick i actually pumped it up to 200 print speed just to see what happens why not i don't need the benchy anyway if you guys haven't already if you could uh subscribe that would really help me out i like making these types of videos i'm trying to do a nice balance between cosplay and marvel and nerd stuff as opposed to just 3d printing tutorials like this so hopefully i can strike that balance and this turns into a pretty cool channel i i've i've loved the growth i've loved all the support thank you again creality i have a lot of plans for this little uh tutorial series if you guys are interested more in cosplay and 3d printing and just the way they meld and mix together i do have a discord there's about 500 members now there's a link for that down below please check that out it is a wonderful place for so many smart people people way smarter than me who've been doing this way longer than me and complete noobs who don't even have the 3d printers yet it's a nice community it doesn't have all the clutter of a lot of the facebook groups questions get answered quickly we have uh game nights and there's special events and there's special announcements and it's just it's a really fun place so please go check that out it would uh i promise it will help you i think that just about does it for this video guys uh please stay tuned for when i upgrade it when we talk about new extruders and nozzles and bowden tubes and just you know we're gonna continue through this and hopefully again you guys will be able to learn a lot so thank you for so much for watching and have a good day [Music] you

Channel: Frankly Built

Views: 68,643

Keywords: Creality, Ender5, Ender5plus, 3dprinter, Cosplay, Howtobuildender5, Ender5tutorial, Ender5plusguide, 3dprinted, 3dprinterguide, Cosplay3dprinter, Bestcosplayprinter

Id: -kKXXKGQzCo

Length: 39min 56sec (2396 seconds)

Published: Mon Aug 10 2020