Denim and its Treatments

hello he's olga i'm a 3d designer at chloe office i'm going to explain how to visualize denim and add different special effects such as washing laser prints grinding and so on the interest in this topic is getting higher and there are new opportunities thanks to new features and new integrations during this workshop you can ask any questions in the live chat on the site and they will be answered let's start our project with already built up garments we start by applying fabrics our claw library contains three types of denim with visual and physical properties you can also digitize your own denim fabrics and use them for the pockets i'm going to use simple cotton an easy and fast option to change a fabric is to de-saturate its texture and change the color for it so i go to object browser texture desaturate and choose the color and since the backside of denim usually has a lighter color we can reproduce it in claw by unchecking use same material as front for the back and changing its color we recommend doing it for all denim fabrics to achieve more realistic results in case you're happy with the physical properties of these denim fabrics you can use them but with your own textures how to create a good texture for denim it's important to cut a big piece of fabric and make sure the part you choose does not have any washing or scratches then you can clean this picture in a graphic editor create a seamless repeat and adjust colors according to your real fabrics then it's recommended to create a normal map for this texture and do the same process for the back you can also create different variations of color and washings for this scan texture let's take a look how this denim will look and claw i simply drag and drop textures and normal maps to my denim fabric for the front and for the back you can also create different color ways and apply different textures to them you can find colorway mode here in this way you can get a great overview of these garments in different colors and washings don't forget also to change the texture and the normal map for the back side of the fabric here we have some standard tanium but we can also create something special for example denim and purple you can name all your colorways according to washings and colors if you think that your 3d garments miss thickness you can add a bit of additional thickness rendering for all denim pattern pieces some pattern pieces are doubled by its construction in case you use two pattern pieces for it for example as on the jacket cuffs it will be enough of the thickness in other case when you just use one pattern piece and you want to fix this effect you should use a bigger value here for additional thickness rendering as well as switch on double-sided geometry as for the fabrics copy an existing denim fabric apply to all pattern pieces where you want to fake a double-sided construction and in the property editor for the back check use same material as you might know denim garments are often washed after sewing this results in some tension and seams that can be recreated in claw you would need to choose seams that you want to apply some tension check this box in the property editor and adjust parameters according to your denim something like strength 3 and ratio 97 then you can simulate and adjust these values you can also reduce and cancel tension for some of the seams the final adjustments should be done once you put your garment in high resolution the other property you can change for the seam is its normal map since most denim fabrics are sick the sims go deeper you can increase the 3d intensity of normal map and make it thicker here i put intensity to 30 and thickness to 4 but i may also adjust it later top stitching is very important for denim garments there are some tricks you can use to add a much more realistic look to it let's start with creating a simple top stitch for the edge and adjusting its properties i will rename it to denim one needle three millimeters first of all the type should be obg because this top stitch has 3d geometry if your computer is slow you can temporarily use texture because adjust the picture and requires less calculation but before rendering change it to obg offset here i would use three millimeters from the edge since thread for denim is sicker it also influences the size of top stitches here i would recommend using length 2.8 millimeters and you can also add a bit of space in between 0.3 millimeters thread thickness 140 for the color let's choose a standard for denim bash orange and the last check 3d to activate a normal map for top stitching then you can copy this style of top stitching and create its variation for example the same but with a bigger offset for the hem like for example here and another style that would be a double needle i'm changing configuration number of lines too and then you need to apply it all over your jeans as you can see you can also use bartok it's also one of the standard styles that claw offers in this way you should apply all necessary topstitching to your garments it's always good to use real garments as a reference and of course you can change top stitching colors for each of your color ways puckering helps to fake realism of 3d garments by adding shadowed height and depth around the seams background tools can be found here to show you how it works i will apply a puckering here then the preset of the puckering can be changed to denim now i'm changing the properties to make the puckering more visible you can pay attention how it changes in the 3d window you can use this preset and add puckerings every way it might be needed and then adjust its properties it is recommended to do it while you have your render preview opened the other way to work with puckering is to create your own library of puckerings by scanning parts of adenium garment here on the left you can see a scanned picture to create a puckering from it you would need to extract a texture and a normal map to extract the texture move the seam to the edge of the image then erase the part that is just denim after that you would need to extract shadows and highlights to create a black and white image and then it makes sense to blur it a bit when creating a normal map make sure to get rid of the denim fabric structure where it's not needed on the right you can see how this puckering would be translated to claw here you can see a comparison of different scan seams on the left and creating custom puckerings in claw on the right when applying those puckering effects make sure you choose the right seam the right side and the right size of puckering it always needs a bit of time since there are so many seams and again you can use a real garment as a reference to know where which effect should be i have applied a bottom hem puckering and now i'm going to apply some puckering to the side seam as you can see the effect is quite visible in the 3d window here we have a flat felt seam it's a sim with overlapping on one side it has a double needle top stitch so we add a puckering effect for it and since this side is higher than the other we add a seam shadow puckering on the other pattern piece now you can see how these seams don't look flat anymore and i will keep applying puckering to save your time during this workshop we sped up this video but as you can see all you need to do is to be a bit patient and apply puckering effects everywhere they are needed here we have jeans and then we do the same for the jacket this process can take some time and some patience but as a result you get a garment that looks much more realistic the 3d viewer and the render may show puckering differently so make sure to adjust these effects using render preview there is no right or wrong settings for these effects everything depends on your garments and what you find the most realistic now i go to render settings our new feature global map sympathetic intensity allows to change the intensity of all puckering's normal maps at once also you need different settings for different denim colors in clause 6.0 we added a new feature a texture editor it allows you to mix and blend different images for one of the maps and create all over washings and effects on top of the fabrics thoughts as it you should select the fabric go to the property editor and click here on the right from the texture here you can add another layer on the top i choose an image with a white asset washing on a transparent background and simply drag and drop it from the library to the texture editor a really nice thing about the texture editor is an opportunity to blend one layer on top of another for the all over washing effects i would recommend to choose the option of soft light or overlay you can also adjust the opacity and the color and in this way you can check how your denim will look with different version effects for example a cloud wash another nice thing you can do here is to create a less engraved pattern i would drag and drop a picture with stars and here again we choose soft light blending option for this image and here we can change the scale of our pattern by making the picture smaller and tile it using texture editor is a very nice way to design and create prototypes of lesser engraved denim let's talk about design and the particular finishings since claw 6.0 we have an integration with genealogy you can find more about this integration in the main stage presentation with genealogy if you work with this company you can import gene files to claw i will show you how it works basically you work with it as with the graphic at this graphic choose the legs that you want to apply and then click on the pattern then you will need to do it for the other parts make sure that all corresponding pattern pieces have this effect for example added for the pockets you can temporarily position pattern pieces in 2d as they are positioned in 3d copy the graphics on the pockets and place them on the pattern pieces so that your dry finishings match and then you can return the pocket on its place here i will do it the same for the other pocket at first i will rotate it so it's in the same angle as the main pattern piece and place it on top of it then i can copy the dry effect and place it in a matching way now i can move my pocket piece back let's continue to do it for other pockets and other pattern pieces then you can adjust these graphics in the property editor selector and we recommend to set the opacity to a lower number and use a color close to your denim but a bit lighter open the render preview to double check how the final results will look like and here again adjust the color for the different color ways to achieve the most realistic results for different denim washings and colors the great thing about genealogy integration is that you can get the exact placement of the dry finishes on your dxf pattern if you created additional copies of washings graphics for some pattern pieces make sure to change their classification in the property editor to none since your main version graphics being classificationology and it's enough if you don't use genology in your company you can still use dry finishings from our library or even create them yourself in image editing software in this case i will take a default one you can find them in our library hardware and trims washing textures i choose scrapping calf used but i will apply it to the jacket now we can adjust the position and the size of this graphic and then duplicate it to symmetric pattern in the property editor you can find a new feature graphic configuration of a seam line check now the graphic goes over the seam to the other pattern pieces i will change the tolerance to one so that it does not jump to the sleeves or back tolerance means the difference between sides of a sewing connection then you can adjust the properties in the same way as we did for the gene file change the color to the lighter shade of the denim color and put opacity to a lower number the placement of these finishings will be available in the tech pack as well and of course you can adjust those finishings in colorways some genes look even more destroyed and often they have holes here you may already guess how we could add some let's start with adding a graphic with a picture of a hole it's always nice to use additional maps to give a more realistic look if you want to use calls through which you can see skin the image should be transparent in these areas but how do you achieve this see through holes and claw the best practice here would be to create an internal shape that goes around the entire hole you can do it with the internal polygon line then right click on this shape cut and sew the next step is to create a fabric that is transparent for this shape for that let's copy the existing denim fabric change its opacity to zero and assign it to the whole pattern piece in case you have not added any additional maps before you can do it now make sure both graphics on select on the whole pattern pieces are selected normal map can be generated automatically if you make its intensity higher a displacement map can be created with any graphic editor it will create fake volume of the broken threads make sure you input some number for amount for example here three millimeters and also reduce the particle distance to one so that the picture is more defined keep adjusting your displacement map always looking at the changes in the interactive render you can create raw adjacent claw into ways using s control edge image or using claw fur denim row h preset to do it in the first way you would need to create a pattern piece at first let's measure its length 3993 and then we create a rectangle the height could be for example 50 millimeters it depends on your scanned image now we need to create a transparent fabric make sure you copy the one that it's double-sided and change its opacity to zero now we can assign this fabric to our pattern piece the next step is to add this control edge as graphic also i will use a displacement map for it and set amount to 3 and particle distance to 1. right click on the graphic tile x axis to create a horizontal repeat then you can sew it to your garment and use superimposed side to place it easily let's add the raw edge on the other side and take a look how it looks in the render another way to replicate a raw edge is to create a fabric with material fill denim row edge preset in this case we also need a small fabric piece connected to the future row edge then we can copy the existing denim fabric and apply fill denim row edge now it's time to open the render since we can see fur only there it already looks quite good but you can modify the setting in order to achieve the look you want it also makes sense to desaturate the texture and add a lighter color because it's what raw edges usually look like there is no wrong color right here just experiment to get your desired results another effect grinding it's done with a special machine to give a destroyed look this can be done on pattern edges or simply somewhere on the fabric let's start internal polygon line and create several internal lines here a good way to recreate grinding is to create a top stitch with fill as a material and adjust it let's do it so now we have a new top stitch and we can change its parameters offset 0 so it is on the edge length 25 and let's choose material for denim row h then color very light blue and here we propose the following length 0.4 taper 0.4 density 15. then variance gravity 1 and curl radius 0.5 now let's apply this top stitch on the edge of the pocket and on the internal lines then we can open a render preview and adjust the properties further if it's needed there are no particular perfect settings for it it depends on your design you can also create several top stitches with different levels of grinding let's create a zika version that we will use for some areas of the pocket age and for the internal lines now we can open the render preview and change some parameters fill shape base band 0.4 and density 111 and then we go up to specification and change lengths to 6 millimeters to see the changes for the fur you would need to stop the interactive render and start it again here you can see another application of grinding on jeans on the back pocket some denim garments especially jeans have wrinkles in particular areas such as crotch or under the knee the wrinkle jeans look is created with chemicals and machines that manipulate the denim fabric and wrinkle it in the desired areas you can replicate this look in clock using internal lines and assign angles to them let me show how it would look like internal polygon line and let's create some lines here and to copy them to the other side we use copy mirror paste then we can first adjust their position now we can assign fold angles to them in the property editor i would go for 0 and 330. to make wrinkles more defined we can also apply strengthen to these pattern pieces and then simulate now we can solidify these pattern pieces and then unstrengthen them for this project i would uncheck fault rendering for the internal lines but it depends on how you want your wrinkles to look sometimes you simply delete the internal lines it is time for some final touches this always depends on your designs for example it's nice to create labels or to add your branding to buttons when you work with denium garments puckerings and dry finishings it's really important to do final adjustments working with the render preview i hope you enjoyed this workshop and were able to learn some new techniques we are looking forward to seeing your denim creations please check out asset design workshop and presentation taking place throughout the day bye bye you

Channel: CLO

Views: 6,909

Keywords: CLO3D, CLO, 3D, Virtual, Fashion

Id: 43Fao4PPzrk

Length: 27min 2sec (1622 seconds)

Published: Tue May 11 2021