Beginner's Guide to CLO Part 2 Editing: Flattening (Lesson 4)

hi everyone in this tutorial I'm going to teach you about flattening you are watching a short sped up example of the flattening process flattening is a process of drawing on your avatar with a tool called 3d pen avatar and then extracting these pieces out with a tool called flattening if you'd like to follow along I have imported one of the female avatars she looks like this because I've removed all of the skins to make her very clean for my tutorial but you can use any of the avatars even with the skin it's going to work exactly the same I've also isolated my 3d window because for the initial process I don't need to see the pattern window until after I have generated my patterns so I'm going to be in showing 3d pen avatar and kind of the rules and restrictions that this tool has when using it one of the things I recommend as well is that when you're working to build a symmetrical garment that you only will have to create the patterns on one side of the avatar and then we will make symmetrically cloned copies or unfold our patterns with symmetry in order to get both sides to give myself a guideline for the center front and center back I'm going to draw a line straight down the avatars front and straight down the avatars back the tool works very similarly to how you would draw in the 2d window you click once to start and then you will have a segment following your cursor as you move you can left-click to anchor and put points down and then when you get to a location where you'd like to end double click to finish that segment as you move vertically or horizontally you can hold shift to give yourself a guideline and then double click to end so on the front line that I drew because this line has segment points when I create my pattern it's going to have segment points here and at the back area where I drew this in one clean line with no points it's not going to have any segments points when it's generated the other kind of rule that I follow is that I will only draw one segment area at a time kind of avoiding turning corners every cornered area that I make instead is a is a result of two separate lines that I drew at different times intersecting so that corner there is the result of an intersecting area and the front is as well so an example of what I recommend not to do is stuff like this where you start here and then turn a corner and maybe keep going to finish up an area like this I would not do this instead what I would do I'm gonna hit escape to get out of the tool is I would draw the armhole as one continuous segment where I close the shape when you get back to a starting point you don't have to double-click to end you can click one time and it will complete the reason why you only have to click once is because with this tool you cannot cross over lines that you've already created so here where I drew this shoulder seam after and I try to finish it past the armhole segment that I drew it gives me this error this is lines created with the line avatar tool cannot cross please try again so because it cannot even cross the program knows that when you get back to another segment or when you hit a segment you can't go past it so you only have to click one time to finish that for the shoulder or here if I draw a yoke seam I can click once at that Center front area and then I can click once when I hit the armhole and it will finish if you intend for this to be a slice into a pattern or your drawing kind of a guideline like I did with the centre front and center back so there you will double click to end because it doesn't hit another segment or it doesn't hit a point I can double click and place a dart into this chest area then I'm gonna draw a way scene so for this I'll left click once to start and then hold shift as I move around it will give me a horizontal lock guy if I accidentally make a mistake then click a few times where I didn't want to click if you hit the backspace key it will undo one point step at a time this is the same as when you're drawing in the 2d pattern window so if you start a pretty intricate line and you make a mistake along the way you don't have to delete it and redo the whole thing sometimes it helps to to get very close to where you're working so I'm drawing one segment at a time clicking around holding the control key down as you click is what will make that point a curved point so see these orange segment points there's orange points and then there are black points the orange points are curved and while you left-click to put a point down if you hold the control key down it will be a curved point if you do not hold anything at all and left-click it will be a segment point so if you made a mistake and you didn't want that to be a segment point hit backspace and hold control until you get to the end you if you left-click accidentally and get into the tool when you didn't intend to you can always hit escape that kind of goes for any tool where you can escape to get out of the initial starting action I'm gonna draw a side scene here so click once to start click once to end and then I'll just draw some type of princess seam down the back area I'm going to close up that center front to Center back connection you I'm gonna draw a proxy because I was having some trouble closing the shape and instead I'm gonna start and stop at that scene that I marked out you as I'm moving around the leg opening I'm holding ctrl and left clicking to anchor the line as I move so except it's starting points and ending points and corner areas you're generally always going to be holding ctrl as you're clicking to anchor your line okay so this is a nice example of something that I can now turn into a garment if I would like to make any changes there's a tool called edit 3d pen in parenthesis it says avatar and this tool will let you click and move points around it will let you delete points by right-clicking on them and choosing delete if you right-click on an area where there is no point you will get the option to add a point or out a curve point so here I can right click and choose add curve point and then go back in there with the edit tool and change the shape of that you can delete entire segments by left-clicking to select and hitting delete it does though sometimes alter the shape of segments near it some or sometimes entire segment areas that are connected will delete so I just hit delete for that Princess Team I can go back in there but the editing options are really similar to how the 2d pattern editing options work now that I'm ready to flatten and extract these shapes as patterns I am going to open the 2d window and 3d window back up and there is one little detail that you can do before you flatten your pieces to help close understand the shapes that you want better any area that I know should be 100% a straight line when the pattern exists in order to ensure that that happens when the patterns generate using the Edit 3d pen tool if you right click on a 3d pen segment you are gonna find the option for flattening a straight line so once you select that I'm gonna go around and select every segment that really should be a straight line when it generates I'm holding shift to multi select things I'm gonna select all of the center front markings my shoulder seam my side seam then I'm going to right-click and choose flattening a straight line you you'll notice that those segments become a little bit thicker so you can immediately look at your avatar pen lines and see where you have asked this to flatten as a straight line so now that I've set those lines to flatten completely straight then I'm going to go to this tool called flatten left click just like the tool and as you hover in your 3d window just by simply moving around you don't have to click anywhere this tool is going to see those areas as zones that it can select if you left-click that area will turn yellow and you can go around and left-click to select every area that you have so all of the areas are yellow then by your cursor it actually gives you the directions for the next step it says select all areas to be flattened then press Enter so now I'm going to hit enter on my keyboard and the program is going to need a second because it's just about to generate all of these different pattern pieces okay so here are the pattern pieces I'm going to turn the option to show style lines on just for the demo so I can see a little bit better and essentially what happens because the patterns generate in the 3d window they kind of just pile up and spread out now what I will do if I have a very complicated puzzle type garment to situate my stuff in the 2d window simply select the pieces in the 3d window and start organizing them in the 2d window and start using the selection to identify what pieces belong to the front and what pieces belong to the back and organize them as you see fit in your 2d window you once I have all my pieces gathered in a layout that I like I am going to select the group and bring this back over here kind of respecting my silhouette and organizing my pieces in relation to the silhouette the other really great thing about flattening is that when the pieces generate anything that generates simultaneously all of the seams that touch will be sewn together so I switch to my edit sewing tool and I can just marquee select and it shows me that every seam has been sewn this will only happen when the pieces generate at the same time if I had generated these pieces one by one so select hit flat and select hit flatten over and over again they would not be sewn I will demonstrate that after by making kind of a sleeve piece and if you're careful not to stimulate I haven't simulated once throughout this entire process I can select the group of patterns that I have right click and choose symmetric pattern with sewing put those pattern pieces down so now I have two halves to my garment I'm going to scooch this back over and then I'm going to sew all of my Center fronts and center backs together I'm gonna hide my garment for a minute just to show and explain that in the beginning I mentioned wherever you have put a point when the patterns generate the point will be in the same location so at my back bodice I didn't draw any segments points between between the neckline and the waist area and if you look at the pattern it is the same there are no segments points on this part of the pattern on my front area I did happen to put some points along the way and it will do stuff like this so there is a point these areas in between they are the areas I told to flatten as a straight line which they did they don't have any curved points at all but that segments point may still cause a little bit of pattern shaping so just be mindful that I really didn't need this point here in the end I did intend for it to be an unbroken segment because this is just the center front area so all I'm going to do is go in there and delete that point and I can do the same at this area I'm gonna delete those points I sewed it together prior in the sewing stays with it I'm gonna bring my garment back now and now I am safe to simulate you so this process does initially generate very form-fitting pattern pieces it's up to the user after this point to edit them or build an ease or do pattern adjustments if they would like something that is a looser fitting garment but it is a really great place to start if you're trying to figure out something with some really unique seam work or you don't have or don't want to have traditional natural side seams you want to have kind of more wrapping type patterns happening so now I'm gonna generate a sleeve pattern I will hide my garment so I can use my flattening tool and my existing garment won't be in the way first I'm going to draw where I want that sleeve to end and you can navigate and rotate and pan while you're in the middle of drawing on your avatar as long as you don't left-click it's not going to do anything so I drew my underarm seam and I drew around the wrist where I would like this to end now I'm gonna get the flattening tool and one thing about the flattening tool is that if an area is too big for it to even work it won't highlight or select the area so below the legs is a very wide area and the sleeve that I just made is actually too big for it as well so this is what I will do when I find this limitation I will use the 3d pen tool to add an extra segment to split that piece in half and make the parts smaller then I'm going to select flatten as straight lines so when these two areas generate right here will be perfectly straight I've basically now broken this into two areas then I can get the tool now and it will see these areas I've selected I'm going to hit enter on my keyboard and it does generate the pattern pieces I have given myself a nice straight flat line where they meet and I can essentially now just merge these pieces together that's a workaround if you have an area that you want to extract but it seems to be too large just draw some straight lines in there and select flat in a straight line and merge the areas back together after you have extracted and then another thing I wanted to show you is that when the sleeve generated because the other pieces had already existed it did not sew to the garment at all I'm going to bring the rest of the garment back and just move this piece away and you can see that that part is not sewn which is totally fine because then I'm just going to go in here with the free sewing tool so from front to back and then hold shift and attach that all as well I can generate my other sleeve pattern and then simulate so this is all on the body ah so if you see what's happening in my 3d window I tried to place the sleeves back on the arrangement points because they generated and I have them with this angle in the 2d window if I hit reset to the arrangement they actually come up angled and then when you place them on an arrangement point they place angled as well I'm gonna not place those in order to prevent this or stop this I'm gonna turn these pattern pieces up right like this I'm going to reset them so they match that upright position here and then I'm going to turn my arrangement point on and put that piece back and while I'm on the topic of showing you the arrangement point another detail about generating patterns this way is that they never were initially placed on an arrangement point at least the body was not the sleeves I just placed if I hit reset 3d arrangement this is exactly what's going to happen because all of the body patterns were never actually arranged so they kind of disassembled and become flat the only thing that does go back to those arrangement points are the sleeves which I had just set on them just be aware that this tool will more disassemble your stuff rather than resetting it around your avatar and then I'll just quickly demonstrate the underarm I should have told that to flatten as a straight line to be honest but then I can go in here really and I can just start editing the pattern I can delete all the curve points I can open the sleeve up all of the regular editing features that we learned in the previous tutorials apply now and you can edit your Garmin so one really last helpful detail is that when you generate patterns with the flattening tool they end up having a ton of curve points when they initially generate I have learned from experience that the option for optimize all curve points does not work on patterns that have been made using the flattening tool I just applied that and really nothing changed on my patterns so if I plan to do some really heavy editing on these patterns now I will clean up the curve points in areas where I intend to edit so for the like opening for example before I clean this up I am going to use the option to clone something as a reference line to mark my original shape then I will go in with the Edit pattern tool right click on that segment and delete all the curve points then I'll go back in there with edit curve point and really achieve this shape with less points and smooth it out in the process if any area has become a little wobbly good enough for me then I can right-click and delete the reference line and now there'll be no extra marking the only thing there is the pattern edge again stuff like this the white peeking over the outline of the pattern is nothing more than the particle distance being very large I just took my piece and changed it to five and all of those little jagged edges clean up you I'm really close my sleeve cap measure is 16.7 and my armhole opening on my body is sixteen point five for a starting point on a design I think this is really good and cleaning up is really not that difficult so here this little area I'm going to clone this is a reference line then I'll delete all the curve points go back with edit curve point so it's up to you how much cleaning up you want to do and how much editing you plan to do after my sleeves are not linked I'm going to delete that one and clone this one as a symmetric pattern you so that's gonna be the end of this section of the flattening tutorial where I show you just really how the tool works and how to make pattern pieces I'm going to delete everything I made here's a good opportunity to show you that I've used this avatar to flatten already if I want to delete all of my segments at once if you right-click there's not the option and the right-click menu for delete all but if you are on the Edit 3d pen tool if you hit ctrl a it will select all control a as a shortcut for select all and then I can hit delete and it will remove every marking this next part will be pertaining to how to create underwire pieces or boning pieces that you can keep stable and shapes to the form of the avatar with using this trick through flattening so the first thing I'm gonna do I will isolate my 3d window I'm going to get the flattening tool and draw a center front mark and a centre back mark and then I'm going to draw an underwire shape this is one of the few scenarios where when I make the shape I will turn corners and close the shape completely so the piece that I'm making is clearly going to be really really thin so now that I have this shape that I would like to be an underwire I would like to demonstrate how this really tiny thin piece looks and generate as a result of 20 being the default particle distance when something generates I'm going to open up my 2d window and then I'm gonna select the flattening tool hover left click to select this area and then I'm going to hit enter so the pattern piece generates and it has a default particle distance of 20 but I need to reduce this to 5 as you know when you lower the particle distance of pieces if you don't simulate the shape gets all crinkly as a result of the mesh going from really big to small so that's what will happen to your wire piece if you generate this on a 20 particle distance sometimes the initial shape is really not very good and essentially I never want to simulate this piece but I actually want to freeze it before I freeze it I am actually going to backtrack I'm going to delete this piece because I'm going to edit the shape over here and make this a little bit thinner and then because I know this piece will never be simulated there's a little workflow you can do to ensure the shape of the piece is really really nice when it generates or at least how smooth the edges of the pattern are and you can do this by going into your settings user settings selecting 2d you're looking for default particle distance depending on what version you're in the default particle distance may be in a different section but find default particle distance and you can change this to five so that means when a piece generates whether you make it in 2d or 3d it's going to automatically have a 5 particle distance this is not something you want to do all the time you only want to do it for very small pieces that you intend to never simulate and freeze and kind of treat them as Hardware I can close this you don't have to restart the program for this change to take effect then I can go and select my flattening tool left-click to select the area and then hit enter and now when the piece generates if you look in the 3d window it's really smooth and at this point I am just going to freeze this as long as you keep this frozen you can sew to it and you can kind of build-a-bra around it so now that I've created that initial piece I am going to generate the symmetric copy and try and match the closeness to the body I can kind of push them in a little bit if I want it closer just be careful that none of the parts are physically inside of the avatar and you are going to have to eyeball this a little bit so now that I have these pieces I'm going to hide them so to extract the cup part I can do this if I go here and I delete this point or I left-click on this segment all of these areas I designed them to be connected so if I left click and hit delete on this segment it's going to just delete up and tell these corners but it actually left this bottom underwire shape for me so I am going to use this to develop my cup pattern because now the cup pattern will have the shape of the wire included and I can continue to block off the rest of my sections and then I will select flatten a straight line for the center front and for the back as well then I will get the flattening tool select these two zones or areas and hit enter okay these pieces generate I'm going to pull them down here immediately what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna measure the end of this so here it's about it's 3/8 this is 0.3 they're both about 0.3 so I'm gonna go to this segment offset as internal line that distance and then I'm going to sew that to there and this to here this edge where the bra cut piece connects to what is the wire area should be changed to turned now that that's all secure remember that our wire pieces are actually frozen so the body that is not frozen I'm going to duplicate that so I have both of my halves I'm going to show the center front and center back closed all of the sewing to the wired part will copy if this is a symmetrically linked clone and then I'm safe to simulate and have that all attached to the wire these little pieces I did not set so one thing you really should do I maybe should have done but it worked fine because these pieces are very small as you continue flattening the default particle distance does not have to stay at five once you make the wire the rest of the pieces or any pieces that you will simulate you can generate them while you're on 20 particle distance if you have a lower spec computer you probably want to do this you may want to automatically switch back to the 20 particle distance but then I can continue making this and using these pieces as underwire those spaces that you're seeing is actually a result of the skin offset on the avatar these wire pieces are really close to the surface of the avatar I pushed them in so the default skin off set of three millimeters will still push the fabric away I would recommend maybe keeping that it like one and then playing with how close these pieces actually need to be so I can push them out a tiny tiny bit and then there's also one final thing that I'm not going to remove I'm going to leave it for now it is a thing called collision thickness additional thickness collision is 2.5 millimeters that is an invisible buffer around the fabric if I set this to 0.2 that's 0.2 of a millimeter that will get even closer so as you're working you see sections may be pushing away or space that you don't really know why there's space between them the skin offset on the avatar and then additional thickness collision on the fabric pieces will all be combining to create these little spaces but when you move to higher resolution I'm just gonna hit this to demonstrate you can change that skin offset to zero or it might be zero by default and the additional thickness collision is move down from 2.5 to one millimeter so it does keep a little bit but you can always go lower if your fabric or your space can handle it I'm gonna hit cancel because I'm not trying to continue in high resolution now I'm just selecting the very top edge of my cup pattern with the Edit pattern tool turning the property called elastic on and reducing the ratio to something between 98 and 90s will be covered in the following section about garment details but with flattening you can create really tight small boning or wire type areas by flattening them out and freezing them so they don't become pliable so that concludes this tutorial about flattening I'm not going to continue building this from here on it would be kind of the regular editing process and building process I just wanted to show you these details about the initial creation using the flattening tool thanks a lot for watching check out the description below for links to more tutorials

Channel: CLO

Views: 29,056

Keywords: CLO3D, CLO, 3D, Virtual, Fashion

Id: 6nKllTXUtP0

Length: 38min 58sec (2338 seconds)

Published: Tue Mar 17 2020