CWIF 2020 - Finals

okay so we're heading over we're heading over we're about to start we're gonna check in a second the competitors are going to come out of this store and then they're going to try these boulders I've been lucky to check out with the route setters all the different boulders and you can see here they're going to have everything like they had in the semi first person out gen word local girl yep what's it been climbing on the worldmap circuit look at these big hitters look at the size of them I'm gonna stand next to them just to show you the size I don't know what they're feeding him it's really interesting to see all the different sizes of the athletes you know you got Jim Koch probably on the shorter side all the standing next to yon like absolutely dominating over him look at the eyes he's focused he's ready so the top qualifiers from the semi final were Nathan Phillips and Holly to help it just gives you a bit of a perspective as to you know the pressure that these guys have run doing I can't imagine looking at Jenn now walking out all smiles but I'm sure she'll be absolutely feeling it now she'll be psyched I'm sure yeah it's hard not to be like I mean what's not to like so here we go okay she's gonna get timed in in a second see a couple of photographers lurking in the background Jim Bob viously local bakes up in just over the way in Manchester zone you're not so close here transatlantic distances but yeah here we go the RAB quiff 2020 final and we're off to start all eyes on Jenn wood let's see what she's got slamming that tow hook in and Nathaniel here transferring across yeah these polished sections on the volumes are so so difficult to know how to use you just got to avoid them like the plague yeah you'll text your text at worst you got a wonder okay cut for everyone at home like we talked about it earlier but like 30 blocks yesterday and they obviously did it and things weren't getting flashed all the time so there's a lot of climbing and the semifinals today just looking at Jim they're you under like is she going to be able to keep it together for four blocks it's so so long the event yeah it's such an intense weekend and you know the quiz known for lots of droppable blocks as well so it often means that people burn to lots more attempts which also means lots more skin than normal totally so yeah well here goes Nathaniel making short work of that first section we were those volumes as I say absolutely terrible for the feet and the hands aren't much better but you can just see on the right hand so far right inside of the wall two little glowing screw holes that's where the next foothold is so he's really just got commit to this move now and then get that foot over there is nothing on that photo so terrible that was a really good attempt and he's still got time to have plenty more yes yeah yeah I mean fine also we lose a minute but still it feels like a lifetime out there for sure when the clock's ticking yeah Jen's really struggling on this first move here maybe not quite reading the the body position for that toe cap tool it's definitely really complex first move and I think you know you have to really get your weight suit you know yeah keep you tension yeah through your body so that the toe hook can work yeah absolutely got to be really confident with the movement yeah I mean just it's not the kind of block you want to come out to fresh off the fresh out you want to get a few moves under your belt but no route set is saying right straight in have that smashing through some fairly average holes yeah but they're all seasoned competitors so they know what to do but doesn't make it doesn't make it any easier good flexibility from him he's not skipped yoga Jen see this round we got the buck in the top right-hand corner one minute ten left then you'll had that really good go getting high struggled to get back to that last I point so for those of you that weren't with us in the semi-finals left-hand corner of the screen we've got the graphic WM obviously telling you which block they're on and then the position that they're in so Jen wood is in sixth place currently and she's had seven goes on the latest Boulder Nathaniel taken five attempts but he's already got the zone which is the little green bar and then he does the problem a whole square will turn green and yeah looks like he might have a good shot again here he's got up onto the zone yeah I think it's just gotta be really quick and confident with that foot there we go straight over the foot so good that foot is terrible yep there we go first top of the final Nathaniel Coleman all the way from the states worth the trip already I reckon great that's it so the scores we're doing a live obviously provided by us here they're not the truly official scores but we have never had a problem so you can take him as read and obviously pending any appeals or anything later on and they'll become official but it gives you a good indication as to what's going on so Nathaniel the first competitor out and goes straight into first position with the top of that Boulder okay so next out we've got fear Cameron yeah love ya he was so friendly just down there who's chatting away like mates in the final of an international standard competition and it's just like chatting away saying how old like jokes I mean what water hero I think especially this weekend oh wow look at the wow that's a span oh just lucky I mean he is a monster man like he's so tall and good good effort from his own on the first attempt so as you can see on the scoreboard he's now gone into second place just a second - Nathaniel Coleman who got the top of that first block so you know it's early days in the competition where only the second competitor on the first Boulder so it's gonna take a while before we start to get a picture as to who's gonna be crowned champion but yeah so far so good without the top but certainly the women's competition this first move a little bit tricky yes Thea cameron was just trying a slightly different be to that I'm going one - yeah it goes yeah giving it the reach that is an insane span the route set is are going to be livid with him I'm sure that's not exactly what they imagined but either way you know he's done it second go I think that was that's that's gonna stand them in really good stead obviously being a final the competitors are all out in front they're not sent back into isolation so they do have a bit more of an understanding as to what's going on within the competition they'll you know would know within a few goes who's doing what so in the men's they know they've got to do the boulder yeah pressures on so they're really struggling this toe catch me like Jenn five attempts on your first Boulder on a real powerful war it's gonna take it out of you yeah and they've obviously done the semi-final round this morning and 30 blocks yesterday yeah I wish I could have got more involved with the competitors and check out this just to see you know get some real insights into it but be the best yeah I mean as I said to you out when I was on the mats that black folding in women's three they're already looking at their skin now you can see her they're talking and having a look you know they're gonna be I would imagine we'll see some bleeding tips not that we want that but you know that's the nature of the game when you do a a big weekend competition you your skin management is everything if you're thinking of getting into the final yeah yeah so obviously we've had a quick top from Yamaha gia which means we've got all eyes on Thea Cameron here they've added a little bit more pressure try this heel toe obviously the trick throw up with the right hand to that slope and at the same time catch your right tobik on the gray volume so it's sort of a coordination catch move both hand and foot which I'm trying to catch one thing let alone trying to do two so I really feel for them on that first Boulder across it might give it a rest go yep fair enough yeah get stuck in okay can't quite keep the tension no but good effort from her we're gonna get the next rotation brushes getting out underway and it's just such a shame obviously with it being a closed-door event this year just the essential people here but still looks like they're having a good time competitions about going yeah well for me out there just when we were doing the introduction it was super hard to concentrate Percy absolutely doing his usual job or should we say encouraging yeah well here we go Jim yeah yeah so Jim's now Sheffield adopted Sheffield resident he grew up obviously in London where I knew him from it's just great to see him now take you know you know competing in an international fire not just exactly what he deserves these climbs so strong over the years transitioning from juniors into seniors it's pretty incredible interesting to see top section I don't think you'll be quite spending it like yeah I know you're dead other wacky Beata oh here we go Alice Lanie ready yeah block one attempt one that is not what you are Jim's on board this pop move the footholds that they're standing on just I wish I could tell you how about they are they are really really poor and with Jim being on the short side you know he's got to get really spanned out to get that hand on them when you span doubt obviously you go up on your tiptoes more so difficult to keep the weight going through your feet and as you saw there he's just hanging off straightaway but I'm sure we figure out it's not just one way to do it as ever which which is worked yeah yeah so we got our first female competitor doing the move she's good she's really making her way through here really shoulder sequence obviously we we know her for the power move she's she's really really strong generally so I'm sure she made short work of these good angle they're showing the steepness of the wall and that helped or those hand holds our screen you'll also see Jim Pope's making really good progress on his Bop block yes see if he can swing the foot out trying to heal maybe gonna reel it in Hannes Lanie just drops off secured the same for her he goes Jim with the hill yeah can he match it here we go nice chimpo keeping pace with the first two in fact doing it so quickly said leapfrog Nathaniel they're jumping into second place route setters absolutely nailing it on this men's vlog perfect split so far five three two she'll be pretty happy without the female category see ya Hanna here already just taping up the fingers I mean everyone at home I'm sure he's a climber already will know what it's like climbing on brand new holds with trash skin you know is not fun at the best of times let alone when you need to pull on in less than a minute welcome worlds that world difficulty standard boulders yeah it's a it's not what you want that's for sure but here we go he's back on she figured out that heel toe cap yeah one more go javis he feels like she can get so soft on strategy-wise always I think that's 30 seconds to go you gotta be so confident to get top ghast already yeah yeah they've done a lot of climbing so good effort from Hanna on the first first female to get to a zone gym obviously on the slow-mo replay here she got up high and just slipped off a little bit higher off the next rotation Mollie Thompson Smith another Sheffield local climb so well in that 75 what did she do again she flashed women's 3 yeah that's it first three boulders back-to-back just absolutely dominated them and then found the tricky coordination slab a bit too hard but still qualifying super well and then in the men's we've got Billy Riedel he qualified for the semi-final first place so he'll be looking to get back to where he was at the start yeah the event well with this first try here in good form already spanning that foothold unlike the others yet in fact maybe something the reset is didn't plan but yeah I think two three three day with the heel hook now so Molly making really good progress yeah nice flash absolutely crushing it she's been she had such a bad run of injuries over the past few years but nice to see the fist bumps there you know still teammates after all but yeah Billy going straight into first there flash that Boulder he'll be pretty happy with that and Monica yeah good round yeah so quick so quick we could have for us to keep track of they're not even ready I guess so with him because maybe they weren't expecting the flash so quick so we've got Brooke rubber to and yogi Yoshiyuki sorry Agathe lovely yeah he timed so well in the semi-finals and he's obviously knows what he's doing he's straight out with the brush easy maybe have a sneaky peek over the shoulder just to see what the others have been up to but yeah climbed so one in that semi-final again I think it was coming out flashing the first three boulders but I suspended that the feel of these days got like everybody is amazing yeah you can see Brooke here she why she's on the way to the Olympics just absolutely a cruise control you know coming from the states you know they love to hang around in bruges it's a real happy place happy place yeah less so on the tacky but techie yeah she's absolutely crushing this Boulder super super aggressive look at this when we're out there it's not the best if I'm honest but she's just taking the time so casual you can just tell she's got so much in the tank it's just incredible flash mega yeah absolutely so getting topsail around it's gonna be a fast-moving competition in the final on this first Boulder by the looks of it and we'll see how we go where we've got three more boulders to go which we're gonna come back to in a minute three goes so far in the bottom left-hand corner of your screen you can see the graphic m1 obviously indicating it's the men's first problem and then he's currently in fifth rankings and he's had three attempts on the first climb and he secured the zone which is the little green bar and maybe tops the problem he'll get a green solid green block so in the scores above where you've got the one to six you'll be able to keep track when the graphic pops out as to who's doing what it's so difficult this move and obviously you know there's a real difficulty as to whether you want to be out early in a final or later you know be out early you get the potentially the better conditions the holes aren't as sweaty or chalky but equally on the flip side if you come at last you know maybe you've you're a bit more aware as for what the other competitors have done maybe you need to do yeah maybe you've had a little sneaky peek over your shoulder to see what to do I'm not saying they have but maybe they have but yeah it's running out of time now we're on 56 seconds on this first Boulder so Yoshiyuki come all the way over from Japan I'm not sure if he's here for the season but it's great to see so many internationals come still come over for this event I think it's really important the circumstances of this season so probably be his last go he's down to 25 seconds now at the time yeah he knows he's got to get atop no thank you yeah he knows that he's had that attempt just the zone yeah and that's the trouble you know now you're playing catch-up for the whole rest of this round and that's like a tricky size to be position to be psychologically yeah you need to see people falling off there otherwise you you're really chasing it for the rest of the company we've got Nathan Phillips and Holly to Hill so these were the top qualified competitors from the semi final round that's right yep absolutely crushed it and well Holly smashed all of the qualification route she qualified first for semies and then obviously now she's qualified in first for the final so it's such a young age it's incredible looking strong straightaway yeah with the tow hook there no problem yeah she's playing hard just absolutely nailing it knows what to do I think by the looks of it she's certainly enjoying coming out later building up the confidence and similarly you can see in the bottom right hand corner of your screen Nathan Phillips no slouch on the slab he loves the slab so he's probably in a happy place now or I can start to think you know Nathan obviously still so young bass done so well international in this incredible incredible and yeah when Holly gets out on the circuit full-time it's gonna be great great to see casual flash of women's one for her as you do like a warm up yeah so same a knife he's still on his first try obviously been on the wall a fair bit of time now so hip we want him to do to get the top otherwise a lot of wasted energy just can't decide whether he's gonna give it the heal or swing that foot out but I'll tell you that right hold his own as you can see is poor yeah yeah absolutely so he really needs to top this block to stay in the running as I daily flash it Billy flashed it so you know if he wants to stay in top spot crashes on yeah looking good oh so close so close yeah there was a lot of time on the wall for Nathan there 1 minute 16 now it was allocation so obviously with the viewing time at the start comes out has another little lurk looks for the clues boot rubber who's been doing what and then taking a minute and almost 20 on the wall really eats into that timer on the top right so let's see put some liquid chalk on regroup have a little rest yeah just you had a fun earlier maybe have had encoding yeah he's got all the tricks but I think that's key you know you've got a you got a know the conditions of the wall and you know what they're quite marginal games take a nice big rest now he knows he can get to the top so may as well put all his effort into one go yeah Nathan get some chalk in that bag doesn't want to this is second chance and is illegal in another minute to go so I think it's just going for a tube potentially a tube to attempt top make sense as I said before Nathan is just so good at slams you sir know whether it's from being in a youth and having you know been on the shorter side and having to work on his slab game to to compete with the others but it's always been something he's had this is our cell yeah 35 seconds so on the left-hand side of your screen you can see the current ranks giving you an indication as to who's doing what after this first Boulder so Nathan obviously securing his own puts him above Yoshi Youku and no but he needs that top he needs it stopping he's only got 14 seconds to get it yeah I saw him look at that it was like yeah 10 seconds to go he's gotta be quick not enough time and you can see the face there he is gutted because at the moment he's the reigning champ right girls topping that Boulder and then Hannah Slaney getting his own and Thea and Jennifer unfortunately not topping but still we move on to men's to obviously got this and another two boulders to go so a long way a long way lots and change yeah but the time you certainly didn't look most comfortable on the slab I would say one of the most rounded athletes on the circuit there's normally not much that you can't figure out so I'm sure he'll keep pace even with the number of attempts on the first Boulder yeah and this block is definitely a bit weird and wacky from what the route setters were yeah there was a lot of arm waving when I was down there in there in viewing that's for sure essentially you've got you've got this awkward start position and then you've got to come unto that big undercut volume that you saw Nathanael looking out there and then Jen woods on women's - yeah which is very balanced II slab of the lean the lean but again just such poor foot all do you think that's quite a theme over here right on the Slavs just like a bunch of really you move too quick yeah coffee roll which is poor grips in general yeah make make big moves on poor grips back in the corner got a shimmy along to that point just where the EP logo is and get rapped on the undercut gens back on - you can just sear in the bottom right corner of your screen that's it making Jenn's working the feet up and that hold she was trying to crimp then that is definitely a foot hole yeah it's definitely terrible it's hard to see from just how small it is from that angle but I'm yeah I can assure you it's not good it an on hold yeah so yeah we move you through just as you can see now they put the graphic out just to show you who's done what so far I've seen the men's we had four tops and in the females we've had three and got our first climb out on block two now so yep we've been making quick progress for quite a few quick attempts certainly in the men's and women's with three flashes so yeah this slap might slow them down always get funny goes on slabs of the apply Kotick clam really struggling to weight the feet here super awkward now you gotta walk the feet up onto this hand hold and stand up absolutely horrendous I know seems to be trying slightly different technique I'm always trying to it looked like he was trying to face out yeah slightly there we go it's that hold he's just trying to rap with this left hand that is definitely the knowledge that you need get into the big undercut and then you can move out it's sliding off that ya doing not happy with life right now so just under a minute to go so it's probably kind of last goes already best quick yep it does not last long when you're in a final a lot of times you know it's not just about the time it's about how much energy you've got left right yeah you know looking here Jen which said five goes on this shed nine goes on the first problem that all adds up by the time you get to the final further and forth boulders it's you know really eating into your reserves yeah yeah really good there we go Jen's up just got to do a little bit more work to get up to the zone which you can just see with the yellow tape that was a great attempt yeah same the timers yeah she's out of time get same in the Fanueil and he gutted you can see I mean it's a long way to come he obviously is a big hitter he wants to win so he'll be fuming that he's not managed to top that Boulder but see how the other guys go we see him here pressing up through the volume so we've got our next athlete without young yeah I know it's so good he's so creative just thinks soul actually when he approaches a problem you know and here absolutely squeezing these holes to death straight through the section that the family was struggling with and I'm sure he's gonna wallop up now to this next hold you know good looking really good so you see a camera in the bottom right of your screen and also making really good progress she's at the same point that Jen got to already that's right so just needs to walk the feet up on that that's it and then stand up this is so difficult so there's absolutely nothing on that handhold above it's like a rounded blob that you're just trying to press up into as much as possible then ordinarily that'd be fine if you had some good food to do if her there is nothing to press with you know one of those people who like looks at what's happening on the screen and what wishes you could just like scream out the birthday yeah yeah I definitely want people okay good first try that Boulder just shy of the bonus ones I'm sorry I think it's gonna be really tricky to get zoned on this cuz it's quite high on the route and you think you know you can top that high probably stand a good chance of topping it so you need to see if there's a zone split or whether you have got table top back on so tricky definitely an odd position to get into yeah yeah I mean just even pulling on in that cross handed position is awkward so it's not it's not like you get even one move to settle down you just straight into the the awkward groove as we say you know keep these results coming through keep your try and cover as much of the content as we can got both climbers on one in the bottom corner one on the main screen it's a lot easier for us this round we're just two climbers not as hectic as yeah semi-finals it was a lot to cover yeah she's totally unlocked this sequence but I just can't keep the pressure on the hands that first go he has he just stood up exactly like that and got back out onto the neck their left hand volume super impressive interestingly neither of them are taking much rest yeah so maybe okay yeah I think you know when you've been resting your skin's a bit cooler that first go when you come out so important isn't it to like make the most of it otherwise you're fatigued and your skin's more source bit sweaty you know no he goes yeah again really tired through that section gotta walk the feet through now which looks oh so tricky so tricky to do so am I right in thinking this is a Ben West or problem or max head I believe this is max yeah so max is our youngest route setter this weekend former GB team climber and now hoping to become an IFC rousettus this is a great comp for him to be to be setting and he certainly got some funk up on here really really funky every time she's getting super impressive and that's the end of that rotation yep so we'll see quick replay of what happened here Sofia leaning out to this volume and then trying to walk the feet up just bit a bit too much fair every competitor so far and then Jim Hope out for his second Boulder did really well on the first one smashing it out in three tries currently sitting in the provisional third place and again cheesier than manual to get out onto the undercut good first try from him Eric and Jim can unlock this one yes maybe maybe the shorter size and this one helps get a bit get a bit more weight up through the feet and on to the biceps rather than being stuck in the limbs everywhere when you taller Slaney not enjoying life if looks could talk that one would say a few things that's for sure Jim back home he's engaged on the bicep a little bit more easily whereas the others were sort of right up on the shoulder yeah in fact exactly like that talking to the root sectors this is what they intended a bit of a face out didn't they yeah so so time two minutes 30 left it probably feels like you've been climbing for 10 minutes after pulling onto that corner [Music] she's got six fingers taped and we're on block two she's not really struggling I mean we all know Hannah she's competed at junior and senior level internationally and and don't really well so you know sometimes they're climbing God's arm with you and you get yeah yeah it's always that way anything like I wish I had some skin to actually climb properly but you know that's the cards you've been dealt so anyway either way she's sitting in fourth currently it's got a zone on the first one which may really help later as we go through it's pretty happy down over yeah I think that first foothold on the left-hand side is actually quite positive so trouble is once you leave it and try and get all the way on the right it just that right foot all this so poor it's hard to keep the heels down and the weight going through your toes just like that again you know for everybody who climbs and trains for these kind of competitions in these style you know you could do these moves all day every day down the climbing wall and feel chill on them but the second the lights are on got personally different you got Percy giving you some encouragement on the microphone it's totally different yeah but that's the game isn't it you know you've got to be able to deal with all all variables particularly this summer you know the athletes going over to Tokyo all being well they're gonna have to deal with things like this and really hot conditions so I'm sure skin will be a big big factor yeah Jim is making really good progress on the block now yeah I think him and Jana the only athletes to get established on this second volume so see if you can transition through the move to the zone is really really burly it's but it gets bright hand up now that's it and then left right good yep Jim being a root climber hopefully still got some some juice left volume is bad totally gas throwing the towel in 15 to go probably wise in my opinion yeah look like he was really sagging on that comes belly psyched yeah you can tell he's got the steely face he's currently sitting him first flashed the first Boulder just took him 21 seconds to get hit those own hold oh wow 45 seconds to talk yeah compared to all of the others he is he's been on the wall for like yeah it's super impressive okay see what he's got it's obviously his local training ground so he's used to the shapes used to the angles but fresh set of blocks strong yeah straight through on that such a good preseason so amazing with no confidence yes we can a studio block yeah the trainings been going really well I dived it's like a 180 pirouette yeah Jeff points for dismount yeah if we could give dismount points would be Holly sorry Molly going on for her first second attempt there trying to get the weight through the feet it's just hard to know what to do she's up it's going for the press I'll do a firm this is maybe one in the female category where height does play a bit of a difference in affairs probably on the taller side of the competitors and she was finding it really easy to get stood up whereas Molly on the shorter end yeah actually then maybe for the next move it might them switch around yeah it normally levels out over the years the come sure for sure I'm sure bill you'll be saying the same because he's really tall and long arms so we're so good to see a news feed such a good footwork going from slightly more dynamic approach here though which is yeah a bit different to what everyone else has been doing they've been going slow and Static row she's giving it almost a run-up [Music] yeah brap straightaway it's soberly these moose unreal you know maximal stuff this so you can only really have like one or two quality attempts before or before you power it out it's train hard if the SAG is on come come on bill oh no do you just yes guests you can see him there absolutely panting I'm sure he'll have a chill get some chalk on they quit yeah there it is standard still five attempts so far so she's really going for it I mean I know it's not too taxing physically it's more of a technique Boulder but still it's gotta have an impact on you overall by the time you get through and skin yeah maybe [Music] we've got have one good goes gets done upon Theo I came to give her a chance of topping currently we've not seen a zone on women to tune some recesses will be tricky blaster into tweak competitors rubber - and Holly - Till's come out after these guys so yeah Billy's calling add a sensible shout yeah I think 25 seconds safety skin he knows obviously nobody else has topped the boulder all got his own so currently sitting in first position of things probably a shrewd move yeah really what's this zone I think yeah she's she's looking at it from the other end which is just get a zone because you don't know what's gonna happen on the next two two rounds of boulders but she's not looking happy so just a quick brush clean of the hole so Brooke is out bro gravity from the USA and your she you keep [Music] perhaps you saw him climb in the semi-finals and came out really cruised through the first three times so particularly on the more physical and he was really really impressive so I'm sure he'll try and put on a better turn here than on block one we really struggled to to get get the get the top straight in here spied the right sequence that's it get a hand down foot up come in yeah super strong making absolute light work of this compared to the others making them seem like absolute jugs yeah so yeah first climb it's to secure the zone 1 block 2 you can see him there jump up into fifth position pretty sure he's gonna give it the flick or he'll for the top amazing so that puts him back in the runnings for there yeah top spot yeah unbelievable that flash so turned it around amazing work and you can see the difference there you know Billy strategically decided to wait thinking nobody else would get close to that Boulder but actually you know come out and smashed it and leapfrog him back into first so yeah really really showing how you got a you know perhaps always play always play out the the time allocation and and get the top if you can yeah so we've got one more climbing to come out after this this Boulder you can see the graphic on left the - indicating that they've not find that Boulder yet Brooke not enjoying the slab so far but dominated that first climb was really impressive could argue that it was maybe more her style but she's such it you know to qualify the Olympics you go around and you gotta be a good all-rounder yet so I'm sure she'll be across here soon super controlled really good keeping those heels down weight driving through the feet just got to lean up somehow stand up on the corner of this volume press you can see it there just looming the hold above super super sleepy press so close she's got time a minute 20 still left on the clock have a little chill plenty of home exciting although I think she's gonna get straight back well we said before you know slaps are like that sometimes aren't they you feel like you're not actually doing anything physically because it's not necessarily in the arms but it's blocked for even all these leg presses and squeezing it takes it out of you I'm sure really good body awareness knows exactly how to use the legs just to create some counterbalance off the hands and pressing up here we go I know the foot which works really well so before she was standing off her left foot really good right toe is attackers yeah so now it's what to do now cuz you've got to get your foot up on that next hold which is not good 30 seconds left giving it everything we've still not seen a zone on women's 2 which is unusual in a final you know you do it's not very often you don't see any of the competitors getting his own yeah Holly yeah yeah Chanelle Oh Brooke not happy without a bit annoyed you can see frustration coming through but none of the female competitive guard there so she can't be too upset and there's she was second coming into this Boulder and is still second currently only Holly let's see what Nathan Phillips has got just look at that men's block too if you can manage to do the first Boulder which you know don't really be dominating better unfortunately not quite figuring out the method like the other guys that's the way it works you know it's a long competition you have four boulders and it's the total score so just come out fresh on each Boulder and give it your best shot yeah so you can do Nathan I have to say this weekend he's just looked and nothing really confident maybe it's the home wall thing but he needs to saw his hands yeah cover e yeah this is where Yoshiyuki was really digging deep found a good sequence to get up through here Nathan doing exactly the same thing Holly to Hill also making really good progress in the bottom right of your screen on the flash as well Nathan here is really gonna lay down a marker if he can get a flash here again only the second guy to get the zone on mens to it's time to feel the fatigue those grips are not good up there so he's got to keep it together come on me if there ya go go with everything Nathe what great hand and that is bold for sure straight into first yes that is not what you want but super super impressive hold two flashes you can see he's psyched that he knows what it means he's gone back into the top position flashy way to look really good on a leash got stood up no ah with Kirsten straight away but yes she was super impressive got pressed up into there hopefully yeah probably can save the route setters I always feel for the route centers it's such a hard job and you know they've got a really experienced team here but at the start of the season so hard to put so hard to predict it and obviously with our old friend the coronavirus limiting some of the competitors from coming over potentially you know maybe the problems that have been set before different levels different standards maybe it's difficult to manage [Music] look like they're just keeping the heels down getting ready and she's in perfect overt catch now gotta stand up on there she's the only one who's managed to get anywhere close to pressing this position ah just no not quite enough to clamp on with that right hand into the press as well but 50 seconds left but see plenty of time to do this Boulder for sure yeah she's unlocked oh yeah I'm topped it thread the needle come on Holly here we go yes nice nice feet up gotta go slow down smash that palm in yeah awesome come on Holly secure that zone and it will be a real real bonus yes yes so we might get our top route setters might be safe she only got ten seconds to go though she's gonna go super super quick now here we go four seconds she's gonna run out unfortunately she's got the yeah and then just rushed it but awesome effort from Holly to teal there they get out for sure so Nathaniel and Jen out on block three yeah Jen on the skin record I see the hands their skin is horrendously horrendously rough late holes but Nathaniel hit funk here getting around the corner this is a Ben West problem oh don't work yeah it's such good coordination they're going a little bit further yeah funny you know obviously see although all the tall going on all different styles of wall you get the big steep boulders tall boulders over in the US national and they're a bit higher than here and you can see the Daniel here just it's almost I level doing the whole boulder that's quick you know you get challenged in lots of different ways the the resetting team here it's worth saying I think I don't think you will get a more experienced set of people setting a comp anywhere really maybe the the Olympics but why it's headed by Percy who's exactly and then you got Rob Napier Jamie Cassidy obviously in ifs sea route setter to Jason pickles Ben West max Ayrton and along yes my fed of course yeah this year great to see her on the team and Oceano all the recesses of really valued having more input from as we see Jen grimacing just to battle on to the fun yeah really good awesome just clamping away through here this next hold so just above her oh you see her paw print on the whole amazing they found you back on really good momentum idea there with the little lean see what you can do here one two three just not quite getting them yeah and the way that left hand hold that is going to it is a good hold but obviously in the corner they've blocked yeah the wall itself kind of blocks it no means yeah crafty recesses they're not stupid are they so they've got one minute twenty left on the clock yep so it's taking a nice chill probably be feeling a little tired right now yeah you can see Jen just it's about maximizing skin now I think this yeah and empower as well is straight off the bat here you've got this double compression which is absolutely absolute nightmare for hands in terms of skin and fatigue in the arms no med volumes Jamie Cassie's creation isn't that right yeah really good but hard on the skin potentially some that the know the British climbers will have seen them before but maybe our international competitors you know something they've come across so always good for them to see Sun your back on maybe as well Daphne is Alaska yep 29 seconds you're so close on that first try and just not quite been able to get the momentum round again as he tries now here we go come on the fan you know yeah it's one of those really like it's not a jewel text foothold that there's a certain part that you stand on that's really good and if you miss it the whole just feels horrendous Jen yes Jane securing his own on the buzzer boobs are up a place so she's really yeah unlucky Jen she's just been it's kind of been like that on the on the boulders today for her she's made progress but just unlocking them a little bit too late and unfortunately on the clock that's that's the game yep so young lawyer Anthea Cameron let's see young can deploy the the arms to good use again I remember obviously if he's a breakout season when he won the World Cup Series just he was incredibly powerful and strong it's been interesting to see him develop you know it was obviously had the power on the strength but now he's yeah super flexible really technical the logical thinker gauging obviously going to the Olympics he's yeah a super good climber but just shows how rounded you have to be and obviously he's worked on a number of skills to get there that's a good shot you can see the really hard I think the fan you'll have the right method to sort of wait the firk get the hips round and then use those hips as that as the movement and if you're stepping back we're on the second half of this final now we're on block three almost halfway through the competitors only six so it starting to get a better picture for who needs to do what will start to give you more insights I think at the end of this Boulder we'll be able to give you more accurate predictions as to who's likely to finish where the tech native team here we've got a incredible piece of software they've designed to figure out all the scores and yes certainly hopefully going to help you guys at home have a better experience because I know myself having watched the livestream on the IFS see it's always difficult to know what's going on and you know finally it seems like we've got a bit of kit that allows us to know so much better in real time what's happening two minutes left it's so difficult when when when you come across these problems you think you have the right sequence you you you start questioning yourself when you're not doing it the first time now is it is it my body position and have I read it wrong all these things start going and yeah you know just all starts to transpire again and you can you could snowball into you know spiral into negative mindset so hopefully she's gonna do this first move she's not quite it's a really powerful move generate you only really wanna hold up yeah totally yeah and really get as much weight through the feet as well so that once you want to grab the grips you can still push up tall on your feet to allow you to engage the biceps which effectively is what you need to compress like that on opposition you need to be pretty much above 90 degrees on your on your arms and squeeze size thing as we Sam keep saying these other tool say but you know maybe this is one where it doesn't really help you can see they're all four points are very very close to each other so you're a big man in a small space no no Jim Jim poke the other end yeah really gotta give it everything on this these attempts yeah no male has reached his own yet no she's right that's he can he could touch it from the ground it's so close but obviously awkward to get around the corner so yan takes his seat back down he's gonna save those 15 seconds he knows you know what's happening on the boulder running the buzzer down but currently no zones in men's 3 all tops and in the females we've had Jen wood making a really good effort but unfortunately just a little bit too late she secured the zone but had to be cooled off towards the top such a shame she was looking really good on that effort jim pope straight on yeah it knows this bit of wall as well he does a nice kiss Wow laughs that's right so hopefully is gonna bring that right foot in to allow him to move the left or even better pumping it out yeah think about it face first goes often are the ones where you really learn the most I find you know you get a chance to properly feel the holds of what the frictions like what the positions are like and you know sometimes obviously if you flash it that's great but if you don't it really gives you a lot of information that you didn't have prior to for those of you they don't know obviously you can only just feel the start holds on a root in the finals none of the other holds above you're allowed to feel until you start climbing yeah and even though the athletes have observation time sometimes what you read on the ground totally different luck actually goes when you go on it really struggling the skin six fingers of hesitate is not a percentage you want to be climbing onto the podium yeah oh ho but we all tape soon yeah and I guess obviously we don't want to keep talking about it but you know with the season being postponed and everything influx you know good time for these competitors to give it everything they can yeah who knows when we'll be able to do a comp like this again yeah if you've just joined us this event is a closed event so that means there's no spectators the only people in the building are the athletes and the event team a live streaming team and that's it yes but also Percy Bysshe general see the the forerunner chief roof Center here somebody made the silly decision of giving him a microphone as usual so he's trying to encourage the competitors as much as he can in the absence of a crowd and obviously I'm sure they're appreciating that but such a shame and you know it's worth just saying obviously all those people that did buy tickets for the event I know the the climbing works team were so upset that you guys couldn't come to watch but I appreciate everybody who didn't ask for a refund because you know the money does still go to a great great cause and to help putting on the event so it's greatly appreciated and yeah obviously the athletes miss you but very happy exactly yeah the that's the most important thing so it is much appreciated and and hopefully we can make up for it on the web the livestream you know appreciate you got a listen to me rambling on for a while but certainly the tech native crew have got good coverage and Gracie here as well yeah and if you guys have any specific questions feel free to send them over and we can do our best to answer them yeah but if you're asking is how to climb block two on the men's then don't ask back on 47 seconds take quite a few tries now he's always fifth attempt so super super techy laney going slow it's working yep same again she went slow on the first Boulder I think was the first style yeah obviously super super strong interesting and that moved the route set is actually intended for the athletes for your left hand over and then much right now she's secured time that's the way it works sometimes isn't it just sure you know you find your way but she's got to go left hand again now now it's flicking up with the right touch with we might get our first top here no we wanted the buzzer we wanted the buzzer top but not to be there as with all international standard finals you know you have one awesome effort but thankfully you've got even more world-class athletes from out yeah and climb so you know there's always a good chance of somebody getting a top can do [Music] good I've just told in my ear that we've got a number of people in the live chat and after greatly comment about sending in your comments good to hear from you my boy back brethren get to hear from you guys keep the comments coming in hopefully I'm doing you proud and those of you that don't know go check out the channel bunch of Maineiacs doing crazy things molly thompson smith with the flash there that was crazy strong man awesome she is absolutely crushing it tonight yeah and she's still not happy with this kid oh my god she's lost a lot of skin there's what she say but yeah that result is very very good for Molly popping her straight in the top of the pack there with two flashes now so still got two competitors to come out on this Boulder we've got Brooke Roberts who from the USA and Holly two-tail obviously both of those are the highest qualifiers from semi finals so Marlee putting in a good turn there but see what the others have got at the moment you can see Molly leaving the field and in the men's Nathan Phillips he's currently in first and he's still to come out on this Boulder Billy trying to figure out how to go around the corner here but yeah and miss Bolger is it's quite outdoorsy you know it's like a teacher your rep you might find like out on the gritstone here which actually segues perfectly onto another question or comment we've just heard from somebody saying do we presume it means do we like climbing inside or outside and have to say well you know what I prefer them equally if I'm honest I have a background in competing so I've always got a big passion for that but equally it's nice to get out in the mountains and experience all that all the different types of rock movement environments but you can't because social down the wall I reckon yeah I think for me at the minute rock climbers climbing is where it's at yeah you know every day for the past few weeks it's been mega have you they don't let me out they don't let me out of this Caravan I just have to sit here doing life wait yeah exactly what you're doing for the rest of the year Jon oh just wait wait yeah no no it's great but anyway keep your comments coming through and we'll answer as many as we can meanwhile Billy rival yeah we need a zone well the route set is also when West is the setter for this Boulder and they figure seriously hoping they figure it out they've approached it in such a different way when when they were reading it they all seemed to be on a similar wavelength that were saying the same things but then obviously as the competition's gone on they're aware that that sequence obviously isn't working because nobody's topping or getting a zone from from what the commentator is saying but yeah here we go he's back on again I just wonder you know is coming out later in this competition with the lights and type of holds the amount of climbing they've done with skin you know is is it hard to come at last you know the conditions getting worse certainly Nathaniel the first climber had the best shot at getting around the corner and Billy really struggling their competition how it goes yeah so we've got Yoshiyuki Ogata all the way over from japan see what he's got on this boulder nice and steep yeah it's much much more like her style again and absolutely smashing it a bit like Molly really really strong and powerful and see if she can get the zone now this thing is not that great but you need to make sure the feet are nice and set exactly like that she's not hitting the good bit oh she's really high that is the worst part of the hold all of her scale really really strong that is insane awesome effort from her absolutely smashed that first try good effort back into first yeah yeah that is not too shabby mean well yes sure you keep the only one so you can see there on the left-hand side of your screen factor for competitors Billy Riedel yong-ho Jim Pope Nathaniel Coleman or super-strong world cup climbers not managing to unlock this sequence had the right idea maybe going a bit more dynamically to get up on the locked arms standing up tall on the feet he is getting that left Oh out as soon as possible yeah I think you're right I think you're right it's not a great foothold but at least then you're set for the next move so you can you can try and teach around so we're coming towards the end of this Boulder now and I think at the end what we'll do is we'll give a bit of a round up as to where we are the positions are going to start to become a bit more clear we can give some insights as to who's go potentially end up as a female quiff champ I think certainly I'm right say we're gonna have a new female champion evil either way yes okay back on left foots in the right position straightaway needs to be nice and slow through this section transfer across so close liquid chalk on request those brushes to come in I would yeah there we go thank you perfect yeah I thought of everything I know what can I say so obviously we keep talking about all the different parts of the quiff you've not been to it before I'd really encourage next year as many pending obviously circumstances as many people as can possible to come get an open format fairly problems you can climb alongside your climbing idols and scramble about and maybe qualify for the semi sin a World Cup format but here we go Yoshiyuki could be the first one so close to get round he was absolutely perfect position to get round on the opposing gaston's good foot placement one could go 15 seconds he's gonna have to be quick but thankfully it's a shortish boulder and he knows what to do so got to get that left foot a bit better there we go adjusts perfectly five seconds to go Oh static almost fuming absolutely fury but still got a smile on his face so here comes some replays you can see Brooke holding that ridiculous part of the black slaver on the right-hand side not where you want to be doing but still super strong amazing contact strength to finish that climb and there Yoshiyuki same as nathaniel coleman making short work of that nathan phillips obviously only here man Yoshiyuki climbed men's - super impressive from both of them so if he could do the same on this boulder here he continued to stay at the top of the tree casual moves from Holly to health looking strong incredible yeah she's obviously full of confidence a good pre-season tour doing all of the national and local regional comps here in the UK and sitting in first position she knows what the other girls have done which I think also will give some confidence knowing that the moves go and here we go let's see if she can spring up to this final hold she needs to get the flick engaged come on Holly here we go asking for the hill method so impressive that is some insane strength really really mega she is in the zone not even breaking a sweat touch York as you well yeah should be rocking jeans and a t-shirt to do that next intense yeah so yeah we can see top three really really far apart from the rest now and in fact those three are guaranteed podium places now so it's a battle as to who's going to be champion benefit in a female category but in the men's all to play for got anybody where the top so everybody I mean if Nathan doesn't do this Boulder everybody is in with a shot of becoming quick champion kind of kid I like it when it comes down to the end the last block yeah but I'm just looking at those results again in the female category all the top three girls they all flash the first and they all flash the third see first super tight yeah gonna come down to the old split so nathan is our last competitor out on block three we've got a minute 30 left to figure it out all of the guys have struggled on this Boulder which is unusual but it is a different style you don't get to get them like this in World Cup certainly but Nathan yeah giving it the double cream got to turn that right hand now as well as going out with the left which is so tricky when your left foot is as bad as that yeah it's like a little it's hard to describe it's like a little sloppy tube that comes out of the foothold and basically makes like a little pebble effectively to stand on [Laughter] the Wombles nose he heard it first everyone believe yeah so Nathan's back on he then he got a few seconds left 38 so one good girl reckon yeah he is pretty harsh all through here it's just this next move with the throw gotta give it everything he's pretty close so I think that foot just needs turning so it's like cursing it it's gonna give it another try fair play nice definitely last gonna last go best go top stuff for power I reckon unleash the physique it's pressing up again just not go enough anyway time time's up time's up for Volta 3 laughs and in the men's everybody has done a block why don't they so we've got no idea and looking at the field you know Nathaniel Coleman ya know ya Yoshiyuki you gotta three of our international fine this old world this is what you want a final boulder a multi coordination moves Jen wood with the power there as well Hollywood moves to finish love it when they were viewing I don't know if you saw in the in here in the truck Jim Polk was really struggling to even reach that Nathaniel the 1 2 3 4 hand movements incredible yes very cool definitely a new school block yeah yeah so max Ayrton set this one bring in there bring in the 20 20 moves in yeah when I was growing up it was just a line of ratty crimps that's true very true Oh so again anyway I hope you guys have enjoyed this livestream it's a closed event no spectators so we do what we can to keep you guys involved have you got any questions comment please feel free to send them through and we'll do our best to get to them but we're joined to the end of the competition now and things are spicing up got Nathaniel Coleman here all the way over from the states trying to get his last practice in potentially the last practice before all the games so an important calm oh yes that was it that was it he paused perfectly but I think just misjudged the position of the left hand two minutes to go yeah leaving to find a comfortable position that he can yeah every every hold there he was just gradually reducing the speed super impressive when your feet and like swinging around like anything gonna be like amazing pressing out on these ex cult holds dual text so you can't really tell on the yellows very well but one sides rough and one side is highly polished so you've got to be really specific and Nathaniel planting the hand and foot and the top this left hold is so poor so poor I think you may go left hand again no fair flavor Fanueil strong awesome finish so he's laying down the gauntlet there two tops yeah awesome awesome two tops five attempts on both so potentially now we know the problem goes you know that's quite a lot of attempts any of the guys I think in fact who are after him they've all got less goes than him on that first Boulder so it's gonna be hard for him to keep that top spot but or equally a super complex multi coordination super ninja Dino so not the easiest one yes so close I'm up yeah I think if she could just get a bit higher on the bicep when she goes up with the right hand as they allow her to hold that swing a little bit more and then get the foot on there they're back the left hand on but we'll see Jen's super strong climber let's see more no just yeah I think yeah that is a long weekend she's putting a huge shift yeah I got to be really happy with that but his nathaniel comes from america and giving it the Hollywood move love it yeah that was seriously seriously good and I not the finish that left hold is rubbish as well so terrible made it look like a joke a bit here's Yan oh my goodness he's the alley-oop over at the right smash-and-grab Fairplay and that is above average that is above average well done so he's leapfrogged I don't know if you guys have seen the film gladiator but it reminded me there where he looked around looks out what crowd is there and it's like that look of are you not entertained like you know is that all you've got awesome effort from him again I think you know we talked about the route the competitors getting a you know more experience for the comp sees in the head but it's also for the route set is you know Percy's going to be the lead setter at Tokyo so he's gonna be learn a huge amount about what they're capable of doing and you know all the different ways that they can effectively break the boulders that they set so I know where that's definitely not what they imagined Yan would do yeah for sure the athletes have been training really hard over the winter season and especially with it being the Olympic year and a lot of the athletes who are going to the games they're turanians change a lot they're training for three disciplines now and it has an impact on their performance for sure in each discipline so it's really interesting to see how how they are climbing start the season totally especially if that's if this will be here any event before the games yeah I mean the only insight that we do get it's insane isn't it that all the variety of of training they've got to do obviously been really keen and watching the Adam Andhra series watching him going through all the different transitions in his training and I'm sure it's the same then we gain insight into Adams world but I'm sure everyone's applying the same process you know there's just so many hours in the day right yeah it's hard to fit it all in yeah particularly introducing speed which is you know it might not seem like it but it's a really skill based event you know you've got to learn a lot of rhythmical technical aspects and unlike the other climbing disciplines you've got to work on those legs right yeah for sure it's each discipline is so different yeah like you've got bordering which is mainly strength and then you've got some free climbing at leat climbing which is yeah and then you've got speed climbing you really need that explosive power it's very hard to train everything yeah I was like a 100 meter sprint meets a 400 meter meets long yeah I I definitely don't envy them all but yeah that's the game at the moment but you know touchwood climbing is only going one way it's so popular fingers crossed we have a great Olympic Games then potentially we might get all disciplines in individually as well as they combined but I think I speak for everyone and just saying how psyched I am about it being in the Olympics just can't wait to see it there and of course we're still trying to figure out who's gonna be the final 20 there and we'll find that out really soon yeah yeah and you can see just skin she had all three things all three fingers on a write taped up and she's calling it a day their play is a long old shift to get through so we're moving through the final boulder now we've got Hannah Slaney and Jim Pope there are third competitors to try this final climb again as you can see in the scores yeah and Nathaniel out in front and all four climbers still to go so you know if you can like yeah and come out with a flash almost guaranteed a podium but Jim having to do it died oh my god yeah Lanie I think this might suit her she as you say likes the the slow steady powerful stuff but it's whether she's got enough skin for this section here needs to be really strong jumping up get high and pull on the bicep it's a good totally I think the party's just he's got a hands sequence dialed but the timing to plant that left for out on the final volume yeah yeah you know sometimes it's easy to get the hands but then you forget and roll your legs are all the way over on the other side and then then you can't stick it but it's got plenty of time two minutes fifty it's always the way with these dinos sometimes they take a while to unlock unless you're young and you just do a ridiculous rollover but yeah huge thanks to all the sponsors for for sticking with this event you can see just above Jim there they're the big rap competition wall logo they've been a long-term sponsor headline sponsor for the quiff and I know everyone here really appreciates their support and the hold sponsors to be to setting providing a lot of these amazing grips from a bunch of different companies there let's see if you can do this last move give it the pop la so close I think Jen would had the right idea live jump really high to get as much as you can on the right hand before floating the left hand yeah you want to hit it as locked off as possible totally it's gonna be the easiest way to hold it yeah really engage position but one minute 50 left for these guys final climb of the day or of the weekend even Jim did you see the legs he's not quite engaging the legs to even flow out with the left foot and stop all that momentum that he's creating I think and as taping up finger there well thankfully we got nothing but time right now yeah let's say I'm sure beats maker sales are going to go through the roof and everybody's going to just be homeschooling yeah that's where it's at get your home boards dust off the beast maker so you can see on the side here we've got the live scores yunho's you came out and absolutely destroyed the last Boulder with a unorthodox rollover sequence to get the flash Daniel did it slightly differently with a one two three four coordination Dino and then stick in the left foot but Jim obviously really struggling here seven tries in this will be his eighth to generate the Mike Wright momentum and get the foot to stick it's just slowing it down nicely but the foot is key to stop that momentum you can safely say this is Hannah's last go give it everything come on so close Wow good effort from 8 seconds to go he's just enjoying he's having a great why not yeah interesting he changed his mind went for the yang role over there maybe could have tried that bit earlier who is blue steel please Matt it's like the Terminator is a man possessed laser beams yeah give me your brush your chalk and your climbing shoes I'm gonna destroy this box I think this will suit Molly really well she really needs to top this block quick if she wants to be in with a chance of oh there we go first place she's secured podium already yes say with a flash she's gonna be in for a good shot at winning it she as Gracie says she's definitely on the podium already it's just what position she's gonna be she's got to be decisive now this last move is a spicy one let's get the tow hook in and I reckon Oh see what she's doing and come on come on Molly stick with it so close and Billy here eyes on him lining up the dye note one static is he gonna go sit no that was awesome the feet facing the wrong way that was a really impressive clamp from him so all to play for on this final Boulder in the bottom right hand corner of your screen you're gonna start to see some insights coming through we call them in event intelligence so for Billy if he tops this block second we've got seven attempts remaining so I've got to say I'm loving all of these these graphics really makes our life easy doesn't it yeah so yeah currently in fifth position but if he tops this Boulder in seven or less he will get ups a second so I'm sure he wants a podium that's such a good preseason with all of the big events to do block doc masters the other one he did yeah fly word yep he's really been around on the circuit so sure he'll want to finish it off well before he gets a forced break interestingly on his last attempt he went for the over-the-top hand beater yep young use so if he tries that again yeah I guess they're quite similar size wise fighters and arms but we've got Molly just stepping back she had such a good first try that she knows it's only a small mistake that she made and folks she'll need to focus on that top section and figure it out at the moment she's sitting in first place got two flashes and flashed to the zone so she's guaranteed a podium we just want to find out really really cruising through that section which if you're just joining us now you've missed three other competitors who've really been struggling on that so good to see you Molly local girl British team crushing that's what we want here we go Molly come on yes nice and slow awesome so she's happy with that three tops topping that second try that is a big deal she's leading the female category puts the pressure on Brooke and Holly now yep that's it do that quick and in the men's as you can see bottom right hand corner that counter going down he needs to top this block to come second and he has three attempts remaining to do so so he's gonna be giving it everything I don't think that rollovers working for him thank you in seconds left this could be the end of his round aiming for the well a huge huge appreciation for Billy obviously based here in Sheffield so you'll be super happy to make finals but knowing him he won't be happy if he's not on the podium yeah yeah absolutely so we've down to our last two competitors which is just everything you want from a competition you want it to go down to the last climbers and that's certainly what we've got in the female category by all eyes on Brooke here so if she flashes it yeah we'll go into that's right bottom corner of the screen so I'm sorry just if if Brooke can top this this climb in one attempt she will go into first place she you keep so good there as well he's climbed so well throughout this round let's have a look at what he needs so first no pressure mate yeah Brooke just missing that hold again the last last time she just missed the good bit of a hold as well but managed to stay on but I think with the angle of this you've got to hit the holds in the right position okay so if he tops it he'll be into first place so super cache that top is not easy but he's making it look easy and he goes straight into first position there by virtue of zones and Brooke just sticking the Dino now she is in desperate need of a top on this one she needs to top this and then it'll go to advanced count back oh no she's got time she's got time so that I have to say that is for Molly Thompson's here that puts her definitely at the top of the tree so she can now only be beaten by Hawley to tell who is to come out last so either way I think we're going to get a British champion champ wicked obviously we're a bit but it's always good to have a champion yeah absolutely we might get two we've still got two Nathan Phillips to come out on men's four as well she's ideal so yeah Brooke taking a time set a few tries on this Boulder now she hit it's so perfectly the contact strength she had to hold that swing and then at the same time bring the left hand that was amazing yeah really impressive I guess that's why she's going to them fix pinch grip is probably the worst hold on the wall not much time left though I guess straight back on if she wants to stand the chance of topping it exactly keep the pressure on and she has to top this block now to come second she's guaranteed podium but she'll want to be as high as she can she come all the way from the states of this calm much appreciated under the circumstances I know she was here before it all really kicked off but it's great to see her but she's just getting gassed out thirty seconds or so remaining and she's she's skins gone save it for another day so it all comes down to the final boulder find a climber on the final Boulder which is what we want Holly to tilt or Molly Thompson Smith in the female category and if Nathan Phillips flashes this Boulder no pressure he will be the double champ back-to-back wins I'm not sure if that's happened before back-to-back champion possibly but either way I'm very impressive given the state of the men's field so there is high pressure low pressure Nathan it's not what you want is it so as you see in the bottom right hand corner needs to top the flock for first we've got Holly cruising through and as we say she needs to do this she's the top the block to come first by virtue of attempts to zones so again pressure on both of these guys Nathan Phillips eyeing it up Oh perfect for Nathan he was super slow slowing down all the motions you know he knows yeah he knows that was a good go and he knows he needs to do it quick so yet just needs to top he's to top this book for first if you're coming down to the wire is exactly what we want I think the Reese has done a great job I think maybe just one of the female climbs block two wasn't ideal what we still got zone and are pretty sure she could have talked to it she had time yeah but again and then the men's block three so you know not ideal but you know three or four I think that's an awesome effort from the route centers two minutes thirty left [Applause] super strong no just slipping off there as I said before that left pinch that they're holding in the roof is really really poor what you want last Boulder of the day Nathan Phillips super super experienced now him around the block been in the finals of the World Championships semifinals finals all over the place these days so yeah very consistent and looking to get another championship here today yeah that's right so podium spot he needs this top we've got Nathan needs to top a lot for second now by virtue of the number of attempts and Holly as well she's gotta top this block now to join or so to beat Molly Thompson Smith here we go Holly nice just trying hard so well here sticking with it she's got the zone smashing through these volumes we know obviously from Molly that this was a super super hard move see if she can do it she needs to press hard with the feet now that left hold you can see it really poor so unlucky she's just gassed out completely gassed out but Nathan's still going on this coordination jump one two three four that footplant is just essential to cut the momentum right yeah just can't do it well unless you again well yeah a weird yam rollover sequence 2020 maximum effort required come on Holly no just outreach currently sitting in second position she unfortunately now has to top the boulder to win she's got more zones than Molly Thompson Smith but she has to top it as Molly has already topped it and it's the same story for Nathan he can't win but he can come secondary tops at the moment he's sitting come on Nate that is it the quiff 2020 he's gutted after being last year's champion it was close yeah very but here are the official scores Yoshiyuki or gutter all the way from Japan crushing it he with a flash and a second attempt awesome effort from him young hoja see you everyone's familiar with him and Nathaniel Coleman locking out the podium and then unfortunately obviously we're buyers two three bits just missing out yes miss now but female champion Women's Champion Molly Thompson Smith brings it home Sheffield yes awesome yeah almost locking out the podium the Brits but Brooke rubber 2 came all the way over from the states matching Nathaniel Coleman's third place as well so awesome shift from the Americans here great to have them part of the event and we certainly appreciate him coming all the way just here in the background on the screen Percy Bysshe tune obviously is in residence and you can just see all the brushes route settings they're the only ones who've been allowed to watch but here's a third-place presentation in the female category for quiff 2020 brook grabber to giving it the elbow bump safety first yeah so awesome effort from her first quiff she's attended Holly not bothered straight in yeah I mean to be fair they've been with each other all weekend so whatever has happened has happened yeah and Molly this is Rob 2020 quit champion Molly Thompson Smith Sheffield local awesome to see and in fairness she did dominated by the end yeah she was the you know really really strong on that final Boulder so yeah big smiles all around she'll be really happy [Applause] so in the men's and the fun your comment from USA takes the third place cope elbow bumps again strong so invoke yeah and yeah yeah rub it in hope he's hand sanitized and the elbow bump you can just see yams obviously used to Sheffield weather in down Jackie and Nathaniel not in the best I don't know how that works men's rabbit 2020 champion Yoshiyuki are gotta all the way from Japan awesome effort so an international podium

Channel: Bouldering TV

Views: 68,228

Rating: 4.8720932 out of 5

Keywords: climbing, bouldering, boulder, competition, boulderingTV, hightlights, replay, recap, final, finals, rock, sport, climb, battl, mendaki, batu, 抱石, 攀登, クライミング, ボルダリング, bloc, escalade, क्लाइम्बिंग, Cup, comp, Olympic, games, live, stream, livestream, asian, боулдеринг, masters, broadcast, खेल, スポーツ, 運動, 岩石, boulderfest, 2020, CWIF, The Climbing Works, Centenary Works, Sheffield, climbingworks, Great Britain, Molly Thompson-Smith, GBR, Brooke Raboutou, Yoshiyuku Ogata, Jan Hojer, Nathaniel Colman, Nathan Phillips, climbing daily

Id: mo2kOMpBWkM

Length: 99min 22sec (5962 seconds)

Published: Wed May 20 2020