IFSC World Cup Wujiang 2019 || Boulder finals

[Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] good evening and welcome to Wu Jiang we are two hours west of Shanghai for IFS Sebald at world cup the final number four of 2019 I'm Charlie Bosco and enjoying this fabulous view of the bouldering wall I'm very pleased to say is Kyra Conde carat you've already competed in the qualifiers here on the hole at the wall here in Wu Jiang quite steep yeah it's a super steep wall it's also just a wall that has never had a bull during World Cup at least recently and so the competitors weren't familiar with the angles going into it so like it's been really interesting to you know both warm up for this and you know see what they're gonna how they're gonna use the wall yeah we've got the regulation six men and six women competing this evening three people making their work at final debuts and one of them really impressed you earlier on I'm Mori yeah I looked amazing in the semi-final she you know as somebody sitting next to me mentioned like just climbed one of them which is one of the harder crimp folders I just like a constant pace like no move looked harder than any other move it was it was really cool and over on the other side we've got climbing's first Olympic gold medalist catered oh he won the Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires last year yes a favorite of some of the American boys I know they all take his finishing move whenever he finishes the boulder he tends to like lean back it which hopefully we'll see you today and a lot of the American guys I all like it we've got a good crowd here in Wu Jiang it's filling up last night for the men's qualifies it was absolutely packed there are people queuing to get in and that area will be significantly full up very shortly conditions currently very good the temperature is dropping quickly the Sun is actually disappeared it behind some clouds right now there was potentially some bad weather forecast it hasn't arrived and it's just nicely cool there's a breeze blowing and the conditions not perfect for balding but pretty good yeah I think the competitors will be happy to have the Sun not out any more it was a little bit hot during today semi final round for sure and I think I think we'll be able to see some hard moves go down for sure yeah and I think with the afternoon not being too hot the maps didn't get too hot the holes didn't get too hot and yeah we're optimistic that conditions are pretty pretty good on the wall just to let you know who will be appearing in the final first out in the women's will be Julia Sean ody this is her first ball during final she was third here in Wu Jiang in 2017 on the lead wall just next to the bouldering wall high mori we've already mentioned her she'll be second out she'll be followed by the legend Akio Noguchi Jessie Piltz will be out after her a week on from picking up her first Boulder World Cup medal and then Miho nanaka we're told she's injured but you wouldn't have known it in the semi-finals she will be the penultimate climber and as so often the case is it has been every time this season Yan yagam ret will be the last climber out she's won the first three World Cups from 2019 not many people are betting against her making it for here in Wu Jiang over on the men's side catered oh he will be the first client we followed by Yan Hoyer Jakob Schubert from neighboring Austria will be the third climber out and he picked up a silver medal here in Wu Jiang on the lead wall just eight months ago in October 2018 then Kai Harada the world champion from Innsbruck 2018 will be climbing followed by tomorrow now exactly the world champion from 2016 and kakora Fuji appearing in his third final of the season will be the last climber out he's yet to stand on the podium kokoro and there are the boulders slab over on the left and the slab over on the right but other than that miss steep steep steep here in would yank yeah I would say it's even steeper than it looks so straight on angle like you know that move for men's four where it starts it's almost a straight roof they're gonna be pretty much up there down in that move yeah we're currently looking at women's 1 men's 3 over on the Left men's 4 and this is one of the huge volumes of being this could present one of the most interesting moments of the final that's on men's four right at the end we will have the women followed by the men this evening as ever in this season and last we are splitting the finals women's three over on the right they're one of the most aesthetic folders to see here on the jolt extra hold women's two in the middle of the screen on the yellow holds we're told that's one of the harder boulders not much to read there but you need a lot of power to get it done it definitely looks like the most physical borders that border that be a women will have tonight yeah we're talking I cussed one of the route sets is any secret he said no secret biceps and core yeah and you can tell it's just you know kind of slow P holds on a steep wall so it'll be a lot of body tension and that type of fine you can't really do too fast otherwise you might just like kind of like if you do one movement too fast you'll just be off the wall so and paint the picture backstage you've been in two World Cup finals what is isolation like now of people jumping up and down is the adrenaline pulsing or are people generally pretty calm people are usually pretty calm it's pretty exciting back there for sure I think it's hard to when you're warming up back there especially the girls since they're going first they're gonna do their entire warm-up before even seeing the boulders whereas the men will get to haven't probably even started warming up yet but they're already in isolation they have to wait for the entire women's final to go through before they will go again so they'll probably start warming up when the women are on their second first Boulder but they'll get to look at the folders see what the moves are and then specifically warm-up for that which is actually a lot nicer so I'm valid I mean are you alone and preferring to be in the second final is that what most people feel uh you know I don't know I haven't actually talked to competitors about that personally I like to make up folders that look like the moves that I'm going to be getting in the round so you know if I see that we have like a double clutched I know where we have to go to a hold and then go to another one I might make something up like that exactly nice of or if you know there's bad Pete Rock overs things like that I'm gonna try and replicate that so sometimes it's really nice to have it and it's a brand new value here in Wu Jiang or certainly the bouldering part of it is what is the isolation like at the warm-up wall the isolation in the back actually the biggest the biggest challenge it's a really open space lots of holds the biggest challenge is that the wall isn't that steep and this is a really steep wall as you pointed out and so to warm-up for that it's really difficult on a wall that is not as deep with just a minute or so away I believe from the presentation of the athletes effort as ever at the start of the bouldering and World Cup final the athletes are presented to the audience and will attend four boulders and they'll have four minutes each to attempt each one if this is your first time watching the IFS see the most important score is how many of the boulders they can top they're tied on that it comes down to how many of the zone holds again and then it gets slightly more complicated it comes down to attempt to the top and the temperature zone but hopefully if the route setters have done an absolutely perfect job will be separated just on the rooftops yeah we're about to get underway with the presentation here that looks like Julius Channel D with I'm mori behind Julia Shamar D experience and League competitions and creasing ly strong in bouldering getting ready to go do you like the presentation or would you rather just get on with it is it bit I always feel slightly sorry for some of the athletes you just want to be in the zone and they have to stand in front of the audience yeah I think the presentation is actually pretty cool you know it's it's starting off the final and it's that first moment of like okay I'm here I'm gonna be it's pretty exciting especially doing your first final so I bet this is a pretty cool moment for Julia and also I saw her Julia channel D looking pretty relaxed here she comes on to the stage big smile plastered across her face and so this should be now a World Cup finalists in two disciplines can she hit a podium in two disciplines I'm re out next one the youth be bouldering gold in Innsbruck at the Youth World Championships in 2017 today was her first semi-final and now she makes it into her first final Kiran Iguchi no stranger to this level of competition 21 Boulder World Cup wins here comes Jesse pills plenty of gold medals in the lead but she's never had one in the bouldering sadhika de bronze her first medal in Boulder World Cups last week in Chongqing can she pick up another maybe a different color this week here in Wu Jiang here comes Miho nanaka she had an old injury that was troubling her last autumn on her right shoulder she has a new injury on her left shoulder but if it was slowing her down thread to see her at full strength she looked great in the semi-finals surpassed only by this woman yeah Nia gone Brett memmio had I believe three flashes on the first three boulders in the semifinal round so she definitely looks on for him yeah well we were talking the semi-final round about how during the qualifier she kept holding her shoulders she kept rotating it as soon as she came off the wall she iced it and got it massage today it didn't seem to be bothering at all and Allison vest who was with me in the culinary box of the semi-final suggested maybe she just needed that belief because she could still compete and mentally you had to get over the block of the shoulder it certainly didn't seem to trouble her in the in the semi catered oh he we mentioned earlier first man to win an Olympic gold in climbing one in Buenos Aires in the Youth Olympics 18 getting the choreography right stunning next to him in the red shorts yon hiya and Jakob Schubert has just joined them both on stage here comes caja Rada world champion from Innsbruck 2018 and he looked every inch of it in the semi-final here comes to marinara sake won the world championship in 2016 last world cup win came in Moscow last year another one of the seven Japanese climbers will be seeing in this final and here is the seventh of seven kokoro fuji final of the season for him but he hasn't yet picked up a medal there are six finalists three Japanese men four Japanese women they all look pretty relaxed about it so they now get two minutes to look at the Ebola they can look on that and they can touch the start holds and not allowed to touch any other hold potentially slightly confusing start on men's one you can see there's a volume just above the starting volume they're allowed to touch it perhaps with their fingertips are just a knuckle but if they're considered to be using it as an illegal start so if there's been a hand jam for example between the starting volume and the one above it that would be an illegal start yeah exactly you're not allowed to use the whole but if we're touching it so if you can see Gotham's left hand his fingertips are probably touching that top volumes but is not using it in that sense so that is allowed over on women's 1 the luminous yellow holds primarily big triangular volumes this one although we're mainly seeing the volumes it's mainly a series of very small crimps you've got the requisite strength would expect to see a few tops of this ones yeah I would say the beginning of this climb seems like it will climb like a slab you'll be pressing you'll be kind of pushing in to hold but then the ending is actually a coordination moved to a crimp so you'll see some finger strength you'll see some of that coordination being tested yeah there's a bit of swapping earlier on on the first crimps the first two pink crimps on the left here on men's one it looks like you jump but we're assured that the easiest way to do the first move once you've got yourself on the start hole is to go up dynamically but in control up to that next big volume and stop yourself before carrying on the puts and right words to the zone we also heard the easiest way to do this final move is to basically just muscle up on that zone hole do a full muscle up into a pressing position and then just bring that hand out to the rather than me 10 seconds left to serve the first bowl as you can see Eddie the IFS sees official photographer down there on the maps we might catch a glimpse of him with our man on the mats you see Eddie on the mats he's getting the pictures that you'll see on the IFSP Facebook page over - men's - and women's - just to let you know that black tape is just lending the men know that they can't touch anything to the left including the starting hold on W - women's - but the route setters will actually take off the first hold of women's - after the conclusion of the women's final just to avoid any confusion that yellow hold see on the screen they'll actually take that down before the men is final this men's too early in the section yeah we were watching the route setters test it just a little bit more right before we started here and definitely looks like it'll be a challenging finish to the boulders and one common theme we've seen quite a lot here in Wu Jiang that round orange ball at the top of our shot is jewel texture and the bit you want to use is the bad bit and it's it seems to be something the recesses right use quite a lot there's there's huge round balls with the dual texture yeah they've been a common world here in rooting for sure at the part you can see it has a bunch of rubber which you rubber on it because they've been healed looking on that dual texture and you can you can tell that's where the texture is not as good it is not the super slippery dual texture on those circular holds it's more of a it's slippery but it's kind of almost more like a paint whereas other ones are more like a varnish where it's really really slippery and so it is holdable but definitely not as tech students would want it yeah it's not absolutely useless speaking of which when we have a look at women's three the yellow bits on those dual texture volumes really are completely useless there's absolutely no friction but as you say the round ball on men's to the low friction bit you can get it you can get something off it you know this women's Boulder it is super straightforward as we were talking about just physical and so it's kind of one of those boulders that the two minutes goes by slowly because you're looking at it it's like well I've seen everything but don't think I'm seeing it wrong you know so definitely gone Bret hands on hips she's figured that one out ready to move on so the men coming over to all the way to the left of the slab very interesting move towards the top of this one you see the lower of the circular green hold is a zone hold somewhere in that blue wall I can't pick it out up to the right I think you can see yes pointing at it right there they're all looking at it yourself stood on that and then you press underneath a zone and then one of the corruptors is actually going from a press of the zone to holding the top of it so you actually stay on the same hole but it's apparently very very hard movements to go from pressing underneath the zone to grabbing the top of it yeah and this start actually looks quite difficult even just get on the boulder so I wonder if we'll see a few or just attempts wasted there and sensitive just start yeah can we started statically or with a couple of steps just to run up and jump on general consensus amongst the root senses was it actually running is marginally easier than trying to pull yourself off statically but I think we might see both methods employed you can see Tomoya very actually just testing out what the screw holes feel like on that on that volume which is legal you are allowed to use screw holes you cannot use t-nut holes which are the holes in the actual wall and sometimes those are also on volumes that's not allowed you are allowed to use screw holes it's a pretty big difference and pretty crucial because people definitely use it this is one of the most athletic boulders we've seen probably this season these beautiful yellow and black dual texture volumes and as I said the black bits are very high friction the yellow bits absolutely the square roots of useless so you've got to be very precise on this one I think we're going to see quite a lot of different method could be a really interesting Boulder to watch this is the upper section of it yeah be interested to see how the climbers tackle that one especially going for the top hole isn't great you won't be able to launcher it you'll need to get there in control the top of that wall is a slight slab - it starts off slightly overhanging and then it kicks back to a slight slab and so those holds will be slightly less dire than they appear slightly less dire I think there's a compliment in there somewhere for the hole on the left now men's for your start swinging your feet up onto that gray volume figure it out we were told we were told this is likely the hardest ball there for the men definitely the most physical pretty straightforward again which you know I kind of I kind of like me straight forward just really hard move boulders I think they're really entertaining to watch and this big pink sloper has just the thumb catch on the bottom and it's on quite a steep angle so you'll really have to squeeze that pretty much as hard as you can in order yeah it'll be interesting to see because the top hole is a massive hole once you if anyone gets a good hand on that it's probably not going to drop it but getting stable on that huge pink volume I think it's going to be the final challenge of the boulder over on women's 4 again going through steep terrain series of volumes with dynamic stars as well and a tricky finish not necessarily hard but you won't be able to cut loose and just fire for it up to that fifth green triangle there is a lip on that triangle volume at the top the finish hold it's probably about an inch deep or you know a couple centimeters deep it's flat but it is on that overhang so it will be something go slower - just checking it out we are not going to get much closer to the action than that that's where they're headed the top of the wall compared to the wall in Shanghai this wall here a new joke slightly lower it was a huge wall looking five meters I'm told in Chongqing so that is time up what you've seen all the World Cups so far this season you know I wonder if she even feels that pressure tell you you know keep keep winning or if she's just you know calm right now I think it'll be interesting to ask her that if she was to win here which is a big if when you look at the caliber of people in the final weather we've got a queue and the Gucci me Conan Mack is Jesse Piltz Julia Shan or D and I'm re climbing you to think with the least pressure but if she wins here people are going to start talking about a winning every bald and World Cup in the season which has never been done maybe the pressure will increase for you see if there's any pressure now you certainly wouldn't know it we've seen a very relaxed you Hanley the past few days now she's relaxed as everyone III really think these boulders this will suit here I don't know if there's ever boulders that don't suit her but they look like a good round of boulders I think they'll be challenging for their all the girls but so here's to start list for the men for Japanese climbers first one outfit we cater del who he'll be followed by Jana Hoya and then Jakob Schubert cow Harada Timon era sake and Sakura Fuji que todo he the only climate amongst them not to run an ifs Sebald at World Cup or World Championship but he has won the Youth Olympic Games so it's a heavyweight final over on the men's side it's great to see both Jakob and I'm back in the finals yeah they're good friends sharing a bit of information and comparing notes backstage as you said the men have got much longer to get ready may just have sight they're warm at when they came out for observation but underway now you know the one thing that I noticed when I was in the finals last year was that the men definitely have a really fun time back a night so they're making up boulders they're joking around they're having fun the girls are definitely a lot more focused on what they're doing and you know it's more business you know like getting it done how the room in a we can beat them Julia Sean ody will be first out should we follow that by amore Akira Taguchi Jessi Piltz a Meehan and Becca and younger gone Brett that's a really interesting final the last four climbers out we know all about the first two very little pressure first finals for them happy just to be here I would imagine especially judging by the huge smile on Julius Channel D space when she ran out earlier on especially given the style of these boulders in the finals they seemed actually a fair amount different than the ones in both qualifiers and semifinals to me so you know people who have failed in one area might not what was your take on the semi-final I mean they're pretty hard round yeah the semi-final looked very you know I didn't climb on them so I can't say for sure but it looked a little bit more kind of straightforward powerful but not powerful in the classic way of bouldering it's kind of more like finger strength and like you could there wasn't a whole lot of like jump moves like classic bouldering moves that I that I that you tend to see in bouldering COMSOL so I think that's why we saw some of the climbers who were you know classically were amazing sport climbers do really well in this crowd there was a lot of heel hooks there's a lot of crimps and a lot of is like kind of pulling between hard positions think about the starting order do you have a preference coming up first coming out last happy just to be there coming out first is always nice because every hold that you get is a high point so that's always a good feeling when you're every move you're doing is a new move so it's pretty exciting though also if you're come out last and you're the first person to do a move that's also a really cool feeling and so you know in a IFSP competition I personally think it's nice to come out first just because of the caliber of you happy so women's 1 awaiting the arrival of Julia Sean ody she'll be climbing on this big luminous yellow volume is pretty much in the middle of the screen there but the key is not so much the volumes it's a tiny pink spring suit if you like just about be able to meet out on that shot of Rome on the Austrian coach waltz pass got an athlete in both the men's and the women's final now it's kasanov walk passes to spot the climber here he won last year in cayenne when you're in the finals yeah that was super exciting to hear just from behind the stage I think we went second in that final and so you know we could just tell what was going on it was pretty it was pretty crazy Julia Sean ody will be climbing first I'm Maury will be out immediately after her then and here Noguchi Jessi belts mijo nanaka and yang yagamoth was actually doing number crunching in the week off since Chongqing and Jana has won 22 World Cups 14 in lead in 8 in Boulder and she is chasing down Jane Kim who has the world record the record for the most ifs Ebola World Cups currently with 29 28 in lead is one in Boulder but Yaya already by having one eight ball during World Cups she's won more in her so-called second discipline if we consider lead her first purely on number of work that when she's one more bold more World Cups that her second discipline I use that term very loosely than anyone else in ific history yet no one else has ever won as many as eight in discipline it's always crazy to me that you know as dominant as she seems in the bouldering field she's almost even more dominant and deep which I don't know if we're gonna see another at me like that and you know quite a while now it's certainly interesting to watch she's actually overtaken cue Noguchi oh she did last week in terms of total Boulder World Cup wins akio with 21 22 sinister Minah Markovic it's right to begin to speculate how many World Cups you might win suspect James record looks in her sights already sovereign levee 22 World Cup wins should be starting any minute now yeah we're just awaiting the climb is normally we don't have this much of a delay it came out slightly early for presentation observation start in two minutes I think it's tough for the climbers when they're made to wait like this it is pretty tough usually they have you sitting in the chair ready as well before you know quite a while in advance and so I think the longer you're sitting in the chair supposed to be going out there to climb it's a little harder I prefer to you know kind of sit down then go right away sometimes they bring you out you know 10 15 minutes before then it must be so hard to you mind not to wander while you're sitting in the chair yeah I definitely tend to try to think about doing the boulder you know like I imagine like sitting there and then like climbing it starting in going through all the motions but then of course you know sometimes your mind starts going low like oh I slipped in the first news okay you know so it's it is hard to make it not wander for sure this visualization is something you think most people employed I think a little bit you know not to maybe you know levels that you see like that hundred films but I think it's pretty much everyone you know tries to sit there and imagine success I think that's a good way of things you know finding success stoolie a shinobi who are currently waiting for their she is finally will be allowed to climb in the first bouldering World Cup Barnard you can speak absolutely it seemed to be unleashed on the boulder it's time she will be here in would Jang barely twenty meters from where she's currently standing she picked up a bronze medal in 2017 in the lead what can she do in her first bowl the final ever since we saw her for the first time in the camera she's been grinning from ear to ear but really strong at the semi-finals climbing relatively early in the semi-final set a very good score that was enough to hang on to sit place and with it take the place in the final so she's underway on women's 1 we are under way here in hwijae's and see the speed war behind and the lead law which I mentioned to the left of that this even though all about the bouldering we've got a beautiful evening temperatures dropping slight breeze very very good conditions for climbing press section that's the part that I was talking about finds a little bit more like this lab and now here you have that first coordination move so you can see there is a tiny little orange screw on just inside that Arrowhead shaped volume yeah I think you just missed it that's slightly above really close we were told that you can get that tow hook that you tried to get there and then maybe you can use that to pull yourself towards that holds interesting as well on the second crimp which is just a shot that one there that's just appeared and we thought there might be some ham swapping going on really seem to struggle to go straight up with the hand she wanted yeah I think that's one of those situations where the female climbers are a little bit more flexible than them you know the route setters and so they had to do a right-hand bump to that second crimp and then get the foot up and then match the hold where she just went right hand up foot up left hand into the under cling so you know because she was flexible enough to get that hand foot match she was able to avoid that hands which one of the problems basically routes esters were in settings but particularly for the female climb it's very hard for them to replicate the levels of flexibility of someone like a queue and Iguchi so what might seem to the route setters to be all but impossible be a breeze for some of these climbers has two minutes 15 seconds left and here we see her winding up those move again this time she found the heel hook instead which could help and could hurt I think that he almost put you a little bit too span out between those holds and you just weren't able to generate that you know that distance to the right just in the two minutes remaining for Julia Sean ody she's absolutely cruising the lower moves trying to figure out maybe what she can do differently and I move I think her method on the first try where she kind of picked her right foot over that's the best option because it does move your entire body to the right which will make holding that next hole the easiest just trying to study those yellow volumes as you say just wondering if there's anything she can do differently but see what message she uses here as I say but there's crimps right at the top of the screen the roots esters are saying oh you've got to swap hands but to go from the top Pachulia to go straight to hit with the left that's move where I think maybe it wasn't flexibility it definitely helps and how they were able to avoid that hands which that the new studies were talking about she goes it looks again like she's slightly above she just missed a little bit but you saw that she went back to her original method from the first time where she kind of kicked that right foot so pulls on it again for attempt number four swings right foot out that's the hand swap interestingly she thought she needed at that time straightening straight out some zone and she was closed that time with 28 seconds to go will she have another attempt I suspect she will we were told the last move to the finish shouldn't be that hard so if she does stick with him she should have plenty of time to finish the Builder yeah ten seconds to go now and she's close very close and Julia shinobi so safely secures the zone but no top I'm re out next for those of you just tuning in if you are in Europe it's probably quite a civilized time welcome to Charlie Bosco and Kyra Conti here if you're in North America slightly less civilized good job for getting up early I was just missing that hole just a tiny bit when she didn't stick it one time that she did stick it a little bit her body just came too far out from the wall and she just kind of barn boot off of there all that whole body just starts moving so I'm Maurice four minutes begins I can't say I know much about her style of climbing but you know if how other Japanese climbers tend to be good at these types of coordination moves you know they definitely have the training down for this type of style so I could see this builder Judy know she looked very strong on the crimpy bowlers earlier on at the semi-final as well you can see that span looks a lot further for amore she is a particularly short climate but manages to go across almost statically to stab the right foot out to the catch with the right hand different method again there's an interesting method definitely not anticipated by the outsiders I wonder if it'd be possible to even just do that whole thing statically wait maybe like a new cross under or something crimp looked I think a little too bad to be that but you know she definitely proved her her finger string during the semi-final I said what will the method be this time yeah makes you realize how it looked good the first time makes you realize how city's yeah she didn't really give herself much trust between their first and second try usually I start pissing out my tries I try to get myself a little bit more rest between my first and second but then once I start running out of time that's what I do pretending to get back on the wolfpack food for minutes goes by so quickly though it goes by quickly watching it was fly by when you're on the wall this is definitely going for that method again this time she hangs on to it yeah shift of the left foot I know she might be getting stuck into that that mindset that you know that is a definitely harder method I would say it's a more physical and you know hard method but she's getting really close and so I wonder if she's going to keep trying that method because she was getting close at it or if she's gonna switch it up sometimes there's a much easier method that you're not noticing so but you're but because you got so close doing a hard way that you get it you get sucked in static method now she gets the bump up to the arrow head volume I'm Maury are we about to see the first top here in Wu Jiang 2019 left hand lands so does the right it might not have been the easiest method but it's worked well for I'm re she's got a top she's under way definitely a really poor method now what will occur in a Gucci come up with on this bowl that you've known for a flexibility she's got a big span just have a look at this to my it was one of the earlier attempts a bit a bit like Julia seemed to be just a help just to put the key point of the whole usually when there's a blind hold like that so that little screw on crimp that's on that volume you can't see it from the position she's in on the wall here so usually what I do and I don't know if other competitors do this but I pick out points on the hold where I'm like oh there's a little scuff right there that's what the top of the hold is you know and I use that trend is akin to Gucci twenty one time World Cup when a four-time overall season champion using every bit of that experience to quietly calmly checkout woman's want before doing anything too rash you could just see her you know scoping where that screw on crimp is right there picking up the scuff maybe sometimes there's a screw hole something that you know if you I'll tell you right where it is we see that getting the left foot look slightly trickier for a Kia the climbers we've seen so far very smooth apart from that she's gonna reach through possible you're talking about it for I mori but the naki'o just showed us how it's done flash for a cue Noguchi ideal start to the final for her here in Wu Jiang so Jesse pills will be next out there she is bronze medalist enchanting a week ago game face would appear to be firmly on four minutes begins just taking a couple of seconds city study the bold now she gets underway well we haven't seen the forehand swapping lowdown from anyone and I don't think we go Jessie so that's more what the reset does have in mind no problem zone it does seem like the easier method even though you do have to switch hands eyeing up the coordination right now sir Akio reach and moving their left hand I think Jesse's think you along those lines I think if you do do this the coordination way you want to get your left foot action to that bottom triangle volume on the right because then your your body position is more to the right in general and you don't have as far to travel once you grab that if your body is really far to the left and your right hand hits that crimp you have to hold this thing for these far distance before your info get back on whereas if your body's you know kind of straight under that zone another hose you don't have nearly as far as distance to go and it's a little easier to hold that that's weak so Jesse pulls on again two minutes 35 remaining takes our hands Rob as you said it's marginally easier or B adds a little bit of extra work definitely think she's good to try and do it the coordination method again she wasn't far off she's going for the cross through method which like wishes crossing her left foot to that middle volume which don't think is what they had anticipated and I think we'll probably see her try and get on this next rise just because both of those trials weren't as close as she probably hoped they would be just talk us through why why swinging the left foot would not be as easy so when when you can see when she gets into this position which he has his own holding her whole like lower half of her body is kind of to the left who as if she switches her feet for her right foot is been her body's further to the right already and during a good position over those holds and you're able to get those people were telling others good foothold it faster brushes come on and do that thing one minute thirty elapsed me her here and Iguchi excuse me already flashed the bowl that I'm re topped it you saw Jesse try something slightly different that try she let go of the left hand probably because she was feeling so span out between that foot the hand the other foot and she's kind of starfish so I wonder if this time again we'll see something different though that was her closest try so that might be the method she keeps trying for Jesse going without the zone this time and it works perfectly helped to swing well now matched on the penultimate volume gets the left foot in place chooses actually to use a heel hook just to make the top even more secure top for Jesse took a few more attempts she got it done in the end Miho nanaka next out we just caught a glimpse of her so this was the successful one she didn't use the zone at all for the jump you can just see how far her body had to travel while she was on that hold which if she was any you know less strong than she is that maybe could have been the difference but you know she's got all that booze much bigger strength and a lot of body tension so it wasn't a problem when she figured out it was her fourth attempt that the Jessie same as I'm Maury me hope for minutes begins for her as I say the old injury that she was having problems back in the autumn you might remember missed a couple of events that was the right shoulder the left one that she hated I earlier on this year both seem to be causing her a bit of trouble in qualifiers and neither seem to be troubling her the semi-final absolutely this competition to win it she looks so strong earlier on today and holds the swing really really well I don't think even hit the perfect spot on that so flash for a key oh and if she can match the top hold it to be a flesh no couldn't hold on to the top you could see she didn't look that comfortable yeah that looked almost like you know I think if she had been in the other comps this year she would have made me taken that finish the little slower found that heel hook found a different book something but you know maybe that was just being fresh back onto the circuit this year yeah a little bit of rustiness perhaps forgot to take that one move slow so take you a pretty decent rest mijo before her next attempt she knows she can do the jumpin if she's ever so slightly more accurate on the crimp I think the jump will feel slightly easier heartbreaking finish there on that first one 2:15 falls back on a bit like Jessie just ignoring the zone going straight for it little more accurate on the crimp ever so slightly more control and then jump this time you imagine she'll get this done go to the left hand chops up it goes again that we saw Jessie get the heel hook and Miho it's not quite the same heel hook but equally effective finds the top on their second attempt you can see maybe she's slightly frustrated perhaps it's like you said a bit of ring the rustiness [Music] probably some excitement no being in the first final back for her for the year and then you know getting to the top of the first Boulder and on a flash attempt kind of hard to slow down and remember to take that finish slow here you can see the heartbreaking finish again that left hand just slips off now this was her successful attempt yeah this is it she got the left foot tucked in nice work from her so yeah again Brett needs to flash the boulder if she wants to stay in me I get herself into the lead going on too bold to four minutes begins for her a key you in Noguchi going ton first go me anunnaki got it done second go fourth go for Jessie pills and I'm Mari no problems but yeah me at leavers herself up she hasn't made many mistakes since the start of this season makes one there and there what I think she did wrong was just she led with the Hannah just a little bit too much so she hit the hand and then the foot was just a little too slow to follow and so here you could see that she was already kind of coming off that hand with the foot hit is that a question of just timing was a little bit timing I think yeah mistake from Yaya and already she will go on to Boulder - regardless of what happens here ever so slightly behind the Kuna Gucci Akio being the only climber so faster but it first go it was a static method that we saw kind of I mori yeah no firm on the jump right this time for Yaya goes to the top I think a bit like Jesse and Miho just needs that heel hook to make things secure and see her reaction doesn't look too frustrated at the failure on the first attempt and finds a top so it's one already been and gone and there we can see it accurate Iguchi leading the way a flash for her work to do for Julia Shamu beat needs to find a top to get back on level terms should be the first climber out on to women's to women's to we're told probably the hardest bold are pretty straight up pretty physical not much to read we don't think we we're not expecting to see a huge difference in the methods used by climbers [Music] it comes julienne four minutes begins again to hurt that this is my favorite looking Boulder personally I'm a fan of the ones that are straight or it and Hart because I think it's style of climbing we don't see a whole lot in the World Cups and it's definitely something that deserves to be tested as well so the four bits of red tape three are on that lower volume that one there which means she's got to put three limbs on that one on the one with one bit of red tape that one's actually a little better than it looks the right hand kind of in cuts a little bit and we we thought maybe climbers might match that one that she had oh right half of them doesn't appear that you need to she opted not to see Julia having to work hard but first move hardest so far this is soft move up with the right hand to that banana shaped hold you could see you're trying to get a little nice gun with her left leg against that second holding the blue section of the wall there just explain what you mean by nice gun so if you watched her leg her left leg it was just kind of trying to get a little bit of friction against that hold just enough to try and keep your body in she might try to do it again just because the holes not in the right spot to get like a feel of their toe hook you might see some other climbers do that but it's kind of puts way too much weight on that bad slow burn that's the zone hold that you can see just at the bottom left of the screen and so during that she's trying to get just a little bit more friction on the wall pretty much two and a half minutes for Julia the first move look particularly physical a couple of say easier moves look slightly more controlled more solid banana hold she's taking the long rest here which I think it's a good decision check yourself at a boulder a few too many times and suddenly you might have two minutes left but you've got no energy remaining it's most challenging parts about the four-minute timer is you really only on a hard ball day like this get two maybe three good attempts especially if you get up to that zone hold on your first try you're halfway up the hard boulder you know it's diminishing returns as well I guess exactly you in order to have to like two or three really good attempts it's better in five minutes and before she chooses to match the first hand hole that you go to from the start this times a slightly different method perhaps slightly less powerful so certainly look more solid so this is a move where she felt last time going up at the right hand looked as if she was trying to trying to press against the lower side of the hold rather than grab the top of it she hook a left toe hook on that first pole that she goes to look like it maybe just shorted her a little bit trying to go to that next hole that's really poorly discussed it's not so much time it's its energy within the time that it seems to be the key here you can't just keep jumping on boulders this hard expect to each go to be as good so like you said two possibly three attempt she is going to have a third attempt but it's burned a lot of energy already by this stage yeah I always think it's pretty brutal when you fall off with a left Lana especially on a hard overhang you go there like this it's just not quite enough time to both breasts and yet another solid attempt in that's exactly what Alice invested in the semi-finals a minute is a horrible time to fall off and you know what that's funny we were sitting next to each other during the men's qualifiers and talking about that so Julie ends up having a third go safely secured the zone no top so both zones on the two boulders she's attempted so far I'm Mari will be out next youth be bouldering champion from Innsbruck 2017 let's have a look at Julia this was from mat level that was that nice calm I was talking about if you just saw her left knee she was just trying to get a little bit of friction on that left hand hold a different method on her second try that look but yeah the first replay we saw I'm pretty sure was her first go and that was the second goal she tries to kind of press against a banana it didn't look too promising but we will see what methods are the climbers try his I'm more II took it for attempts to get bolder one done [Music] four minutes begins again for her she was the joint youngest climate in either the men's or women's semi-final earlier on today yeah just 15 years old I think hey you know she's over ten years younger than the kiyojuji strawberry have that level of power at fifteen and to be performing like the Cure Noguchi [Music] I'm re now slightly different method go for a kind of hand swap on the whole before the zone she is trying for that really high heel hook but I kind of mentioned might be a possibility definitely a method that I think we'll have more reward from smaller climbers even even she has been the smallest climber in the final only just squeezed in they're getting your body weight back high up on a slow per to has its disadvantages usually it's a little easier when you keep your fake like your weight below the sloper you want to hang down on as much as possible so sometimes when you get that high like perched on that heel hook it kind of just hold you off as you got to the zone first go as did Julia minutes remaining I think as you rightly said we're not going to see a lot of attempts on this Boulder most people will have time for three when they have the energy for three okay thinking if you don't get this one done first or second go third go this is I Maurice second go the zone on both the boulders so far and top the first ball the fourth attempt you know that's also something the setters keep in mind it's like this border wouldn't have been the fourth boulder in the round because by that time you're really powered down really tired and if they want to show on this Boulder like cleany defended early which is what they did yeah bearing in mind of course these competitors had four very very tough ball as earlier on today qualifying round for the women yeah there was not many cups in any of the rounds this took this weekend week my amore got four tops and five zones in qualification she followed them up with two tops and four zones in the semi-final which we had earlier on today two remaining if she was to slip earlier on on this attempt she'd have time for another but I think if she gives us a really good burn almost certainly be our last attempt you'll definitely be her last good attempt who's gonna probably going to be enough time if she does not finish this time to have probably another attempt as well it's in kind of that brutal zone like I was talking about know where you have just enough time to get back on the wall but probably not the energy because you won't be able to rest slaps up onto that banana shaped hole and I'm just watching it no thought clearly as they're grabbing hair scoresheet and heading backstage you know what's interesting on this climb at the zone is where it is because it seems relatively easy to get there from the bottom and I think that top section is going to be hard as well getting from that next hold all the way to the finish so I would think maybe that razón Hill would actually be that next hold not the one that it is but maybe maybe some of the top climbers will prove me wrong was six seconds to go she's going to get timed out sadly so four temps from I'm re no problem up to the zone that's what she's going for is that banana hold the right place anybody really get the distance to hit it with like a bent arm on a hold of that bat you really want to get it not at like you know full extension because that's gonna be really hard to hold at that distance whereas if your arms bent and you're engaged on it you're able to really bring your whole body into play and they'll have a better chance at holding it so you'd expect to see quite a different method from Akira Noguchi completely different bill - I'm Maureen much taller she is one of the taller competitors especially in this final you could see from her static method on number one but I think this Boulder could suit here she is you know one of the strongest and a little taller and so maybe she'll be able to easily get that distance that hold after the zone [Music] so will she match her go straight through she's already looked up and left that she's planning on going straight through what's a hill hook to good use [Music] [Applause] now safely up to the zone so she caught she secured that first go looks so solid on the move that stopped I Maury and Julia's Shan or D this is still only a first go Akio Noguchi this is the tough move up to this rounded halt the volcano shoot hole but there's just that tiny screw on inside it she's currently crimping and she falls for the first time in this final just trying a hand swap on that banana shaped hole but she absolutely cruised up to that she did I think we'll definitely see another good attempt for the top from her the left hand she wasn't pinching that hole which makes it really difficult I think to then move off of it because you don't have that you know extra pull on that hole and so I think right as soon as she lost that left hand that's when she lost all the body tensions very calmly waiting to get some lives back in her arms sits down on the mat it was interesting with I mori when she pulled on for her fourth attempt and it struck me that it's very very commendable to want to try again but really just didn't have time and I think one of the differences you see between will see someone like I'm Orion a Tokyo taguchi's you don't I don't think the community what she would do something like that you can see there she's so calculating the cameras are watching her the crowd are watching it but she's still happy just to sit down she doesn't let anything get in her head she knows she wants a long rest very calculating yeah that's definitely something that comes with a lot of experience you know if she's really used to being under this pressure of being in the final and knows exactly like what she needs to do in order to win because she's done it so many times just be cut loose there but you managed to save it she didn't actually go straight from the top of the banana shame whole this time went for the bottom and then pumped the right hand up again was just trying to get enough friction on that left hand touch and go landing on that crimp and now she just got her thumb on that left hand hold you can see so she was able to really pull in with it like I was talking about beeper sounds one minutes ago kiyah and Noguchi lining it up attempt number two I'm older too you know that right hand let's just be really bad because IKEA was being so strong she's able to usually just pull through and move like that and you could see she didn't even really get any any Pole through to the finish hope we talk about a bad time it's a fall on an attempt to came down with about 45 to go 35 now she will have another go no sides against it so two attempts Ricky Noguchi and she got there she got to the penultimate hole never really had it a good go at the last move this was her going for the crimp she was just above it and then dropped onto it this was her first attempt for the flip over the left hand yeah you're absolutely right not pinching it seemed crucial this was the second one you can see her thumb under on that time trying to pinch she's unable look at the distance that final hold it's a pretty big move put that last hole definitely is good but you have to get it way in the back we see climbers coming out with all sorts of stuff Jessie Phil's carrying nothing short mag strapped on ready to go soar Adam on drew earlier on today's got a portable fan and Makita back camera to cool his fingers down in isolation that's a really great idea honestly during uh especially these hot rounds you know here and last weekend Jessie pills to hang on there ended up in such an uncomfortable position maybe not the best way of did that move but it was definitely looked cool right yeah it's a flipster zone so all four climbers so far have gone up to the zone on their first attempt this move now is the one that stopped I'm Lori and Julia channel D guess what I was talking about before it's always interesting to me and how Browns had to decide where to put zone versus you know where not to put it and so for this one like if I was a setter I probably would have put it on the next hold since this move is so hard and then that was where the finish is so hard so then you get kind of the separation of getting this hold and then you get the separation of getting the top literally thousands of micro calculations to make but I agree it perhaps a zone should have been on the next ROM this was she somehow hung ROM yeah I wonder if I just hired her out just enough for this movie see you heard using that same nice gun that Julia tried to use see the speed wall there in the background we had a superb speed final on Friday evening I will give nothing away the replay is on YouTube as are the highlights it was a really exciting final I was trying to guess what was gonna happen and was wrong every time well as a savior if I haven't seen it I don't want to give the results away but the men's winner beats his personal best in all of his last three races Jessy pelts now two minutes to go could do with being a little more in control in this move but again it looks like she's burned a lot of energy on that one but she's still on she's still going [Music] see if just now bad that zone hold is it's just one of those holds you can't get comfortable on no matter what you do you move your hands around looking for the sweet spot you can't find that comfortable position so you're just fully battling the slipper if you really tell how bad that hold is yes he was actually the tow hook in the first hold you go to off the starting hold now we saw a Julia do that same thing but I think that's not the way because it just shorts you for that next movie need to be able to get that distance but the tow on top of that off provides you but with the toe underneath it you just can't quite get to the good part of the next one buzzer sounds one minute to go as yet untapped this Boulder number two going for the finish but still Jessie 43 seconds remaining as she left the ground this realistic me is going to be the last good go when she seems to like that powerful method of doing it she was really after at that time safely up to the zone again so this move she's heading into now clearly one of the crooks is she's got a good handle on that banana hole couldn't hang on to it heads backstage so she got a top fourth go on the first ball this time she gets the zone hold first girl no top nobodies top this one yet Nihon Anaka still to come well if she is being troubled by either of her shoulders I suspect we'll find out about it now can't wonderful see her use like you know the heel hook method for the beginning of this folder that's a little bit less shoulder e less powerful than the way that Jessi was just doing this move I have to say from the competition point of view it's great to see Miho back all her own way she's been pushed in the few competitions but it's great to have another super strong climber back Miho of course the reigning for the World Cup champion from 2018 looking smooth so far you know easily did that shoulder move and that was to the the injured shoulder so I think we can safely say Miho nanaka is if not a hundred percent she's certainly 99.99% fit she was really really powerful she's trying this heel hook method that was a I try which definitely makes us move think harder you could see you're just struggling to keep the friction on that that's loper and I think that's just because you're like center of centre of mass just it's a little bit too high and then it just makes it really difficult to keep holding on to that slope I'll be interested to see if she tries that one again it looked reasonably comfortable for staying on the zone but maybe not for moving off it [Music] interesting rendition of the wheel rocky was playing in the budget right now yeah I have to say that DJ has been one of the best ones who had on the IFS see we've had lots of ac/dc Creedence Clearwater but this is one of his first own goals like Akio she said to take a very long break me how it got stuck straight in we'll probably see her maybe even run down the clock two minute 30 just give it one more good shot she knows nobody's top of the boulder and unless she got sewn on her first try so she's probably not too worried at this point definitely wants that top just to put herself in a good position but [Music] so here she goes again heading up towards his own just haven't got long enough to really figure out these moves it's a really steep section of wall there now she's in range so she's safely up to the zone like you said I've actually be surprised if she tries the left heel hook method again just about left left foot free and went up with the right hand as for the brushes again she seems to be right in the middle of that banana hole yes the fastest bit and I guess the hardest bit to pinch yeah I think that's probably she probably went for that section just because it was a little harder to get the distance all the way to the top where it is a little better wrong amount of time to fall with that she's probably going to give it one more attempt maybe see her getting on the wall five seconds yeah 30 seconds you're really going to be pushed for time 33 remaining usually when I'm getting on the wall from my last try I tend to get myself just enough time where if I slip off the beginning I'd be able to have enough time to still finish that's kind of my strategy but then also you tend not to slip off the finish or slip off the weeks turn the beginning so yeah I think mijos cut things a bit finer this time ten seconds to go and she just can't find a way so the border as yet on top everybody has got to the zone on their first attempt but nobody has got to the top a cure Noguchi she's definitely in the closest so far which attempt was this for me hope looks like maybe her first attempt so this was the second attempt at the banana move and she really she got just banana so that was the last move last attempt so what can the Yemeni gone Brett do I would not be surprised to see a flash from Jana on this folder it's just straightforward it's and hard you know so that suits her style really well you know there's no moves that are living low percentage you know so you know sometimes that just forces a couple Falls but this one is just just hard foot slips yeah I wish to do chooses to put the right toe up and now we'll head up to this zone with the right hand followed by the left so this is a move and stop if you're on apart from a cue and Iguchi and you're straight through it it's you're pinching the upper left side of that banana hold okay she's into the penultimate hole the top beckons Yaya gone Brett Boulder to flash for her she becomes the first climber in this finer with two tops she couldn't get the first Boulder done on her first attempt and she was slightly behind the cue Noguchi coming into Boulder two but she is taking care of that she has two tops and she is in the very familiar position of being out in the lead just after this there was a slight slip but looked in cruise control from there on out I almost whip that finish by just kind of punching the hold with her right hand but you know it made no difference for her so it has to be said the whole season especially here in Wu Jiang she has just looked cust above everyone topped everything in the qualifiers which no one else could do she's absolutely crushing it all weekend and there we can see it two tops on two boulders including a flash at number two which nobody else could top so women's Boulder three now probably the most athletic Boulder we've seen all weekend it's over on the right-hand side of the wall yeah just full of door texts like black and yellow volumes holds that I've never seen before actually so they must be new to all the competitors as well I would assume don't have a great view of it from this angle but we'll see it here in a moment yes yellow and black the black mist high-friction and the yellow is the zero friction it's tucked off to the right it starts off on a slab just a slightly overhanging section backs off again to a slab we're not really sure how this want to climb the roof says to sit down a couple of different methods in mind balance ii technical could be quite powerful low down yeah the way that they explained it to us didn't look to me like the obvious way of doing it so i think you might see different a couple different methods but you know the route setters are pretty pretty good job so i wonder if what they did this forest yeah it's doing a fabulous job so far here in Wu Jiang Julia's channel D right at the far end of the stage she'll run all the way over to the right-hand side of the wall you know they exit to the opposite side because they don't want you going back towards where the competitors are so you sit by yourself if you're the first person out back on the right side of the wall and then the next competitor will come and then you can talk about the holder and then the next competitor comes and then once everybody's there they move you to the other side and you start again [Music] there is a little foot chip on that volume that you can't see right in the middle of that yeah yeah exactly so theoretically you go out with the left hand and pinch and then you turn it into a press do choosing to roll over with the right hand see just shaking with the effort then ideally the hole that she's holding with her left hand you grab with both hands you match on that one believe that's the method roots esters you could see there in the volume that's right in front of her left shoulder the one she's been holding they've actually filled in the screw holes on it just so the climbers cart using [Music] I think that was the right method that which I saw you here trying yeah and yam Janu who is one of our roots testers here was saying the way he'd like to do it was to match the hole she had a little bit left hand and then swing the feet so she still had a foot out a hand out right I see she was able to get in the reasonably comfortable position it seems just wasn't able to move from it and now that she has this beginning a little bit more figured out you might see her move through that a little bit more quickly on her second try and then have a little bit more energy for that next section [Music] one minutes left still only have one attempt just you're on this Boulder a long time there we go underway and early this year at the IFC you need to achieve a stable position on the star hole it's no good just tapping start hold to achieve a stable position julia Shalaby has done just that and is on her way again chooses to put both hands on that first volume this looks a slightly better way of doing it so that one she's got a left hand on we think matching that should be the way to do it this time she manages to slap the feet out and concede the zone hold beckoning it's that whole big volume really wrestling with these volumes she really wants to get that zone you can see her eyeing it but what we were told is it's actually easier to go to the right hand hold first but this seems like it's going to work well will it though because you got to be interesting if they suspect the judges might not give her that zone no I wouldn't give that his own it's either that you have to use the hold or control it and in that case she just kind of held it as she was slipping her hand was moving the entire time so I would say that was probably not control it was a really interesting as he said those shoes seem fixated on the left perhaps thinking about her score and getting the zone whilst maybe ignoring what would have been an easier method and going to the right hand of those volumes [Music] sometimes it's really easy to get tunnel vision while you're on the wall you know you'd say okay I just need zone or I just need the top and that's like I think part of what we saw from me hole on the first Boulder she had that one hand on the finish hole and then just rushed it a little bit because it's like oh I'm on the top and then you just slide off and I don't think we're gonna be able to see her get the zone of this there's just not enough time no if you think how long she was on the wall particularly on that first attempt so no zone for Julia channel D looks slightly frustrated as she heads off so this was the attempt where she went for the zone yeah she she was never really on it this is the lower section that was the final attempt here comes I mori climbing really well so far in this final yeah and her very first final on the same day as her first semi-final and we're on in a bowl the World Cup well we see a different method from her being shorter she's going for the pinch of that volume chooses to stab the foot out earlier on there's nothing on that one the route setters haven't added anything to it trying to grab the underneath of it [Music] you can see her just struggling to figure out how to do this next section she is her really low down just because she has a little shorter how old she's going for I actually just got a slightly better angle than we're seeing on the camera and hearing the kanji but it's positive there's only really space for one good hand on it under the trapezoid volumes yeah on the right hand one that she had a left hand on it looks from the angle we were looking at it you think was match on it but actually there's only really space for one good hand yeah I'm sure it's a nice right hand hold that she's on right now to its flared out so it's actually not a very good pinch either it's like pretty slow P on both sides yeah neither the feet occur either see you're kind of adding up for not very good holds and it's just about enough to keep you on the wall the texture on these volumes also is a little different than other texture on other volumes to it's it's just you know it kind of varies from going to the volume and this one is different than other ones I've I've touched so I'm sure that's just different as well she goes again half the time still remains she's not been spending as long on each attempt as Julia Sean ody yes she hasn't caught quite as far as Julia pinching the top of the volume of the right hand right foot cuts loose comenzó just take here off the wall [Music] now we've seen her get really close to times I thought method so I'm guessing she's gonna keep trying that I think that is the way that will be the easiest for her to do that [Music] creatures around the left hand back on top of that volume see ideally should match it but you going to compromise the quality of the original left hand [Music] manages to hold the swing this time but then the feet cut loose somehow manages to stay on the wall she just had a slowly different grip on the right hand volume that time she went for the full wrap instead of the pinch suddenly this looks very promising I'm re still has 53 seconds left so that's looking good for her and that will be the zone she definitely got the zone there I managed to go up just a little slower than Julia coordinated so now the richness think launching from the top is not that good an idea but nobody told I'm re judge raises his arms a signify she's topped the bowler and she gets it done that's really good persistence because she wasn't making a lot of progress and as soon as she managed to get herself around that volume she was away yeah definitely she took advantage of making that move and you know I got that top so really excellent kind of come here I was her fourth attempt she got that here comes a key Oh couldn't find a way on number two after a perfect start flashing number one we walk across okay you can see a key was experienced she knows they'll wait for her she doesn't need to run if you are just tuning in Charlie Bosco and Kyra combi here and the climbers have had their observation period already two minutes fair boulders and they've had a good look at this [Music] but Akio choosing to use time she sets off it'll be over 30 seconds just studying the boulder again you know I'm a kind of impatient type so much advantage of all the time that I have and get right on the wall so I'm always impressed with the people who have the self-control to keep looking at the boulder and take that much time to really give a quality first attempt [Music] which see the right had no problem look with the left didn't use the same pushing method that we tell the first two five inches no and she hasn't pinched the top of that right hand volume either there's no problem for her we see here make quick progress is everything he would was giving I am Julia such trouble so zone now for Q and Iguchi she'll pop out grab the right hand and what would you do with the feet definitely can't go from there you have to do something with him get them a little bit higher and this very promising those feet are a little more ten years than they look but there's nothing wrong with the top hold for Accio flash for her well it would seem she eyes at this as a faultless first go or doesn't manager at all in this file that's two flashes on three boulders for her she's got all three zones two flashes out of three what's the right hand language she wasn't letting go that's for sure [Music] just another body language here comes GSE Piltz her compat reott Jakov Schubert fellow Innsbruck resident Jessi underway much quicker heal on the first move frustrating use of an attempt these finals now with how strong everybody is it easily comes down to attempts like that we saw that with two MOA last weekend in Chongqing and he just had one attempt where they called him off for a false start and he lost by one attempt to tapas oh yeah would have won in the competition yeah when I heard last he came in second place it wasn't disastrous but past it the winds okay because in the win and we've seen it a lot particularly in the men's qualifiers this year especially attempts have just been vital so many people getting knocked out by a temple no we're not at a point even [Music] Jesse got the move out to the left sorted now she did the full cut method which is what we were told the route settings anticipated she didn't flip the volume at all absolutely bearing down on those holes eyeing up the zone interestingly everyone has gone left first despite is being told it possibly want the easier don't think there's much in it I think having a hold finally after grabbing all those volumes is just so feeling hard did not go for it like an oasis in the desert beckoning it top could be beckoning but Jesse pulls it and he from the venue emcee went but she did make it and left hands there as well and that's the top for Jesse's second attempt would have been a flash without that but slip yeah she might be slightly frustrated with that but it's not much you can do when you slip like that you can see they're coming slightly harder to pick the climbers out there's Yan Hoya backstage waiting for his turn in the men's fans becoming slightly harder to pick the climbers out just beginning to get dark here in Wu Jiang good to be back here it was only October we were here for the lead in speed city has hosted the walls was only finished on Monday brand new yeah like I said earlier that was one of the interesting things with his punishment that of us knew what the boulder ball was going to look like so no warming up for the first day like we haven't got to see anything about it just because they were behind these curtains they see kind of on the right side of the screen right now those are the curtains and so none of us knew what the ankles were or anything about the world just slipped off on her first attempt to the wall which is probably frustrating for her [Music] yes you look really strong all day in the semi-finals as well the early rhombic you can see there's just a tiny bit of rustiness just that little slip and the miss top earlier on where she just needed to take her time a little bit but she looks very much back in contention I think as the season wears on and particularly by the time we get to had co-chief in August for the World Championship she is very much in the reckoning she's in the reckoning here in Wu Jiang she's absolutely still one of those drives competitors just even dealing with her injuries again she's going up left first slightly different method for russia undercling with the right-handed and actually looked really nice really launching from the top hold from a bit further away and the other climbers at Churchill spot he stood up ready to tell her she topped so like jessie gets it with the first real go yeah just a slip on the first move for both of them separating them from the second try in a flash so young yagam brett getting ready to go she seemed very relaxed all weekend very much in the mood what can she do on this one it was flashed by hakuna gu to me ho and Jessie got it second go I'm re got it fourth go Jonnie I'm sure feeling pretty confident after being the only woman in the top number two yes and that was a flash so so far she has two tops in three tries she did take two tries on the first climb she's got to get herself around that first long volume chooses to match this hole easily you're holding that swing over pumps up again zone would have hit three beckoning Emily thought about the undercling might swap to the under cling after going to the zone maybe Matt just a second of the volumes straight up to the crimp on the zone and then leans out right for the right hand the first volumes if she can get her feet sorted you expect you to bring it home flashes Boulder three puts her back in control could get very complicated scoring wise but one thing we know is if she tops ball to four she'll win the competition they'll be the only they better know with four tops so yes if she can only get his own and somebody else tops it then it does get a slightly more complicated but as you can see there right now she is out on her own three tops on three boulders Kier Noguchi and Meehan and Mecca just behind it so Jessie pelts and I'm re all four of them have got two tops and three zones and Julia's Channel D with two zones currently in sixth place now this last time is a dyno so you never know what's going to happen you know you know some competitors are preferred I know it's a boat so here comes Julia shonali first climber to attempt women's for the spotlight now really beginning to illuminate her darkness first signs of it just beginning to appear in Wu Jiang the Sun is gone now temperature really beginning to drop here she goes first attempt to jump so that hold that's on the blue volume is actually really slow be it's a cup side down and a half moon trip and so you're going to just be able to use it to get just enough distance to get the other hand up to that to your drop volume which does have a screw on hold on it yeah it seems she looked as if you might have even tried to stop on the first attempt at the jump yeah I think she definitely tried that out a little bit that time on her second try you could see her pull up a little bit when she hit the blue Holden or the hold on the blue hold and said you got close to the sticky mat next hole here she goes again next attempt and this is the last border so you'll definitely see people throwing themselves at this if they if they can't do the movie no point conserving energy if she goes lining it up again so she'll go to the that triangle and then slap up that was her closest go yet yeah for sure she got a good hand on the teardrop volume momentum meant she was already on the way down 90 of time remaining [Music] short tries again now it is a pretty far distance to both this first hold and then the next pull through as well definitely a challenging I know so at half the time left we have been counting the attempts this half-a-dozen and she the attempt is now beginning to look quite similar each time she's getting a hand on it but not really looking close to sticking it she hasn't quite got in hand fully over that screw on it and has missed it even a little bit a couple times which is one of the added challenge in his diner thought that hold is kind of blind you can't tell where it is so short this time with a minute and 30 to go [Music] just studying the boulder now just wondering if it's something she's missed above the teardrop volume by the way should she or anyone else get there you've got those two round purple volumes each of them has a tiny little screw on on the underside of them were you heading next that was the closest one yet it was definitely her closest go she lasted just a tiny bit on that and that purple teardrop volume but this is quite slowly on her body skin loss could be an issue as well it's a tough one on the skin at the end of a hard weekend that one was close you can see her smiling suddenly she's making real progress wait 30 seconds left definitely enough time to at least get zone still eyes definitely nose not time for another try here she goes again well she have time for another go yeah why not first fold a World Cup final enjoy it and she's close again I think that will be it for Julia's channel D she looks like she's enjoyed her evening no tops for her sadly but pretty close on that jump on one attempt I think hopefully this would be the close one that was one of the ones where she damned it there were quite a few attempts that looked like that where she got a hand on it but it's not good enough hand on it let's see was this a good one it's another dab that was a close one yeah held it just enough but you know that hold is also not the zone hold it so holds after that hold so soon just think is there anything to catch the swing with the feet doesn't really look like there is no I think I think the way she did it is the method if your arm is just a tiny bit bent it'll be easier to hold that swing she was just so spin on it that just didn't have enough control in her body there done to finish folding this way I'm Laurie going for it just explain why having a benz arm is slightly easier I feel like what it is it's is that when your arm is bent you just control your entire body just a little bit better you're able to really engage everything whereas if the harvest straight you end up just kind of swinging out and having no control over the rest of your body and we saw I they're just almost holed the first hole which I think she's gonna have to you know I've been wrong before I am yeah I think she is going to try and stop on it and does incredible contact stand for my mori really cool and she's got the job done now I mentioned earlier about those two screw on hold that's what she's trying to leave behind there's the second screw with tiny at the left and then you got to get your foot of hi I'm Maureen lining it up this would be her third top it would actually put her in the lead at this stage left hands up there and the right will join it top four I'm Ori brilliant stuff I cannot believe she stopped on that yellow holy volume crazy method I did not think I was going to be possible by looking at the boulder I have to say watching a jump I wasn't confident she could do it the the way that Julia's channel D was trying it you can see how far the jump look just to get there it was hard to imagine she would then pull on and keep the momentum she found a way that worked for her she's she's in the lead definitely a force to be reckoned with here comes the Kia Noguchi well Yaya gone Brett can win the competition just by topping the bowl - regardless of attempts but all the Kyo can do is try and find the top as quickly as possible she was on a rampage last year on our tour through Asia won both of the Chinese World Cups and then her home World Cup in Tokyo when you were you climbed alongside her int I am she was something else in Asia last spring yeah she absolutely annihilated all of those competitions it's a very honest especially now don't think we'll see her stopping on the blue volume don't see her having much trouble at this minute and she is gonna stop on the blue volume I take it back yeah after getting back close I could see your baby again I guess that hold is just a little bit better than it looks I thought it was just fully slow purred I guess full sloper on that but uh it looks like there's a little bit of an edge look at earlier and here she goes again she is trying to stop and she's managing to stop so this is attempt number two for Akio the same method that we use on that first move no problem up to the top for Tokyo Noguchi gets the job done and by virtue of attempts at wall mover ahead of I more eat remember all of this could be academic in regards to the gold medal yeah yeah nagamma at top six and that see yellow hold she does have two flashes in one second try and one flash to zone so she does have a really good number of attempts very low absolutely crucial so Jessica Hills makes her way out really surprised to have seen two climbers stopping on that horrendous yellow hole but it's the only two climbers who've actually succeeded on the boulder so what do we in the route set there's no no neither Jesse nor me ho will be able to surpass Akio now yo has three tops in four tries and Yan Miho already has four tries for her two tops and so does Jesse has six tries for her two tops the scoreboard just behind Jessie they're already happy got the jump Jessie she is looking such a strong all around the speeds times coming down we know all about her lead she's a world champion in that bouldering really coming along after picking up a bronze medal a week ago in Chongqing and almost sticking the jump here in Wu Jiang yeah absolutely she had a kind of rough start to the season and Merrigan didn't make the semi-final which i think probably one of the first time i find what she hasn't made she's been such a consistent competitor but then since then has made every final so I would say that her hip old routine and is looking pretty good it's been linear progress and not making semi she made finals then she got a medal can she do it Chongqing that's 13 Wu Jiang managing to stop the swing probably stay in there even after the swings finish you can see what a bad hold it is just somebody trying to hang on to it now she's got a foot out left onto that green volume leave is up to the screw on hold [Music] this section look a little harder than the other competitors I didn't see most of these guys been falling up here so I'm sure she's going to figure this out perhaps considering going up left hand first I think it would be harder it's further away than the right hand [Music] definitely watch this top she knows it could move her up a couple positions yeah she's the first climb we've seen really pause for thought here and all things being relative it's a half-decent position now she's she's gone up now again the right hand really not convinced by either method here Jess it's some stage you probably have two commits out left now once you've taken that long to decide how to do a move it's usually unlikely that you'll stick to those up there a long time jessie of course with her lead climbing prowess he'd expected to have plenty of endurance she'll need it now there she pulls on for another go it has to hang on that blue hole for much longer and we did see her have a little bit more trouble with that first I ought to she's kind of fight that swing a lot so that definitely took a lot of energy out for the top two holding the swing you've definitely a little easier that time so the sun's going up to the zone with the left hand yeah she had a look at that earlier I'm not sure how she'd extricate herself from that position if she if she did succeed in going up with the left hand you'd have thought she only going with the right is the only way she's trying to hug that teardrop volume and just can't find a way so Jessie that the first climber to get herself up into that position and then not find the top definitely a little frustrating for Jessie yeah it shall be at least fifth this is the worst she can finish but sadly for Jessie fourth is the best so her very clean progress to no semi to make the final to making the podium stall some what'd you say said final in the Rope season thus far me hone and maca now in her first World Cup action of 2019 on her final Boulder here in Wu Jiang the chance for third place if she does this Boulder or second depending on Yaya if she goes as me if she does this move yeah the wind is gone for me hope this place on the podium to rehab potentially [Music] see here just deciding whether or not she's going to be stopping on that threshold or if she's going to try to pull you Julia Sean ody really persisted with trying to go straight through and that was what we were expecting to see from all the climbers hasn't materialized through my visit look really really close maybe just one more try what happens yeah she looked close that time that's what they're aiming for [Music] mijo pulls back on matches the blue slaps up with the left not sure what happened there it was happening so fast but it's a bit hard in the mouth for a second found a way back on she's got that right hand crimp now this was a move that Jesse was struggling with it was freeing up the left hand because that teardrop volumes just in the way you can't push your hips up quite how you wish to because that volumes is pushing you away from the wall she's the first predator we saw successfully do the double double double I wonder if this this section at the top here is bad for her shoulder injuries it's kind of two gas stoves in a row definitely something she's probably thinking about the the method she had the timing method where she kind of took the swing and then slapped from the left hand looked to me the the best of the method to see Thank You whatever worked definitely to the top of the border timings got to be good to release the left hand at just the right time but you seem to get it right [Music] we're lining up another try leaving her enough time that if she would have missed this move she would easily have another go getting a pretty non-existent toe hook with her right foot there we pan up to see the tiny cream she's aiming for Shawn it was about so the first time she's really showing the side of it all things considered this has been a fantastic comeback from definitely and you can see her kind of weighing her options moving in the clock if that is hurting her shoulder it might be the better decision for her to just stop as hard as that can get yourself to be get yourself to do you know I I did think that actually I know she had over a minute my friend she came down with a thought will she will she call it a day try again so a little stumbled on that attempt can't recreate the jump up no sign of her calling it day after all she's definitely thinking of the rest of the season that she has in front of her it is a very important year so this time she gets a job so she's already had the zone with ten seconds to go only a top will improve her score and I think she's going to be cutting out time unless you can pull something absolutely extraordinary out you can see aligning it all actually got a hand on the top looks like she would have timed out either way great to see Miho nanaka back and very close to full strength she ends in fourth place our podium already decided I'm mori he's going to be on the podium Akira Noguchi she's going to be on the podium and so is he on you gone Brett what is the order the worst Jana could do would be third place if she tops this Boulder at all in any number of tries she'll be at first and it'll be her fourth win of the season so far out of four World Cups so pretty impressive scene nonetheless either either if she does this or not so yeah actually a zone might just be enough to win the competition depending on the tent if you can get the zone first go it would actually do the job first yeah you're either the first or second go she easily does that first first I know okay same method as me hell she's got the zone Danya gum rats got the table she's got the win she's topped everything in sight this weekend for the fourth time in four World Cups in 2019 it's yummy gone Brett at the top it's Janna yagam Brett rewriting standards I think she tapped that in less than 30 seconds so no problem I mean we barely had time to talk about a method or anything she just had a quick look at the bold and nailed the jump first time and found the top she's just been on another planet this weekend receiving the congratulations of her coaches only climb with five tops in the qualifier only climate with four tops in the semi-final only climber with four tops in the final she hasn't just won this world cup here in would Jen she's utterly earth to leap dominated it from the first Boulder of the qualifiers until last bowler in the final super impressive performance by Yaya as usual easily just taking the pressure of having to do this last time and doing it no problem didn't even use the left hand screw um she didn't need it that did look like the method that was the same way that Miguel found on her last attempt which looked like maybe the better way yeah yes yes she's only fallen off three boulders she's just dominated this event in Wu Jiang there's been four World Cups to season and she has won all four of them we're hoping that Janna will make her way down to the front the interview pen is right next to our commentary box so we should be able to see when she arrives but yeah it's been dominant the first four World Cups of the season she's been challenged in every event but have you ever really doubted at any stage of any of the World Cups that she would win no we're still just waiting for her to make her way down yeah it's been four wins in four World Cups so far this season there is the result for tops for her nobody else could match that acure Noguchi and I'm worried the other two people on the podium before we speak to Yaya she'll be presented to the crowd I'm Mari water what a result for a Cure Noguchi picks up a another World Cup medal she's three four three four second places I believe as well yup she didn't compete Moscow and Yaya is four from four four gold medals there's never been a clean sweep in IFS Sea World Cups of a season people are inevitably going to start talking about it it's really close yeah we had a couple of people really close including Anna yeah Cobb was closed in 2011 in the lead but yeah people are going to start talking about it especially if she wins in Munich in a couple of weeks some who mustn't get ahead of ourselves here you've just got to enjoy watching young you while she's on the screen it's really something quite special she took two attempts to get the first boulder done but after that it was flash flash flash and she's just arrived in the interview pen next to us and we'll be chatting to Eddie our interviewer pretty close to ready down here at the front and looking forward to hearing from you and you gone Brett absolutely delighted no clearly no problem whatsoever with motivation despite the now 23 World Cup wins so we'll get down the front in just a second our interviewer Eddie doubles up as the photographer is ready to speak to Yaya cuz we're seconds we'll be able to hear from it she's ready Eddie's ready let's get down the front Yanni gambrel I know you have been asked this before but never gets boring so I'm super happy that I could pull myself together and once again win it was great to watch as well you were so dominant out there of course last time we were here was for lead and it got rained out must be nice to be here in better conditions this year it's super nice to have a calm find that he'll sing well congratulations that was amazing to watch you tonight always good to hear from me and it just incredible to keep up that rate of success but also the motivation she's fired up all weekend yeah absolutely she never expects to win you know it's a really awesome attitude to see she is so clearly the strongest to all of us who are watching but you know she is always excited as always trying hard it is always giving it at all which is really cool we'll be underway with the men's final in just a second just quickly as someone that competes with young you what is it like competing with it you find it inspiring yeah I think it's absolutely motivating you know to see some TV that insisted on such a high level is absolutely incredible and you know something we're all striving to be which is maybe unattainable for some but like it's it's absolutely amazing to see that it is possible carat thank you very much for help in the culinary box absolute pleasure to have you as always I'm hoping I'm torn I'm hoping we don't see you again because we see you in the remaining finals but if in the unlikely event you don't make the remaining files you're always welcome the contrabass thank you very much appreciate your time thanks I'm happy to be here ladies and gentlemen welcome to the iron fencing sir CARICOM be released from the country box will make her way down into the crowd and we await the beginning of the men's final we've just witnessed another younger brute gone Brett masterclass 23 World Cup wins now for her takes her ahead of Anna Stewart takes her ahead of Mina Markovic takes her head of laundry in it'll leave a closing in you suspect on their Jane Kim's 29 total MGI - next in the all-time World Cup wins list of 25 and as I say yeah now standing on 23 so men's final will be underway very shortly say that I saw you did I take it to paint oh yes he's ready it's so ready yes let's hook up Hannah go hey Jenelle catered Dohee is Alton the station Angie Pell Huck Lavinia alongside me welcome welcome thanks for having me thank you for doing it well we'll talk about your compatriot and your gum rate in just a second let's not look at catered going for the junk on men's one I told the way to do it is more astatically yeah for sure like maybe yon who is a toy competitor we like most probably rich the first move but I think it was meant like a jump the way though he's trying it so well yeah the route we were talking to the route setters and they were saying the way he just tried it the second time it started to do it so aesthetically the first woman that's Italy okay when you're there it's actually not as far as it looks yeah maybe a maybe but I was really surprised when you first look at it you use yeah like when I was looking at the problems from the from the crowd it looked like a jump so but their way Kate then way though he's doing it looks way easier and more safe and you can go apparently with the left or the right hand Lee chose to go with the left and then you've got to somehow get yourself around the volume and then out to the right yeah jump to this zone for sure I think after the zone should not be dead hard to get there but we'll see just quickly while Kate is back on the mats we just saw your compassionate you and you're gone Brett win again yeah crazy crazy like the way she wins is just too easy it looks too easy really compared to others two minutes 20 left for catered oh he's the first climber out in this men's final the Youth Olympic Games champion he'll be followed out by Yayoi and then it'd be Hyuk of Shubert Kai Harada to burn our sake and kakora Fuji so again he leads at the left hand right hand joins it now and this is a hard move out towards his own ah he clamped it if once you've got hold of that you've then got a kind of press it underneath you and then slap out left for the top hold he's making progress every time catered oh he every attempt has looked better than the last one yeah I think they're the way he's trying it is the end of the way so I hope next try if he does it it certainly looks like he can do it I said it earlier on he's the only climber in this final who hasn't won an IFC World Cup or will chairmanship in bouldering but he did win the Youth Olympics it's a very very strong men's final this time he holds his own now he's somehow got to try and get on top of it or is he gonna come back left yeah I think mental his own probably he's supposed to mantle his own but I think he's he's got a different idea the problem is you can't really hang on the top hold ya gonna press into it yeah just like that this Lincoln it just well he really is getting close now yeah but there's not much time so then seconds rest and try again I guess 40 seconds now set off with more than 30 it's a slightly awkward start or you wouldn't know it I suddenly looked slightly tired and decides against it catered oh he got a hand on the top hole that he couldn't turn it into a top so decides against a final attempt that was when he nailed the jump to the zone look really solid he an Hoyo first fun at the season for him he looked super strong in the semi so I think he deserved the finals and before we watch and just quickly your performance last week he must have been so happy with that yeah for sure for sure my performance I was just amazed by the results like I always tried to do my best at the boilers and I'm happy if I do my best and like when the results was that good I was super happy about it so yeah looking forward to next comes it's giving you the taste for the finals oh yeah for sure yeah yeah it's making easy work of the first move yeah straight up Joseph he can you enrich to the zone oh no oh yeah no I really looked in the mood in the semi-finals he does here in the final and he goes up with the left hand missed it and managed to come back down nobody yet has tried what the route says has had in mind which is pressing on top of that hold goes up with the right hand and you see what I mean about not being able to grab the top it's not really good enough to hang on you've got to push against it they're at limit the way and trying it looked okay for him maybe for dog he was a bit it's a bit Richie but pinky and my my baby to do it like that he was climbing so quickly yeah super quickly super quickly he looked like he wanted to get on with it yeah yeah you tried it with the left hand couldn't hang it and managed to go back to the zone and not very impressed with the brushes so he's doing it himself I think the main difference is Jun Jana doe he was like no he was wrapping the volume in yarn was just like pinching it and trying to go to the top man like that wasn't like allowing him to like push from the zone hole to the top like just pressed with both hands so maybe maybe that's the way you underside that's why I decided to do try a different method like this you know again no problem work with the left hand body just locked in position once it landed yeah well again no problem up to the zone he's climbing quickly again so he's freed up the right hand he's trying to grab the top of the volume again he clearly believes he can do it and who were we to bet against him he's somehow trying to wrap the volume but the thing is just coming a bit too short he's a bit too short in the volume and that's why he's sleeping off so the roots Tessa said you would take the zone you push it so your hands were in between your legs and then you slap the left hand out that's what they were saying rolls like certainly not the first thing you thought of when you see the problem now for sure and I'm sure even if you do it correctly it's a hard move yes yes we'll see how others get on with that move but yeah so he got up to the zone on his first go Katie doe he got there on his fifth attempt yawns got that move across the design o'problem now and I think he might lead again with the right hand which handsy going with again slaps up with the right I think he's a bit short for saying that for Yan but I think he's a bit short for that bit I don't know like he's always a bit too short in the last hole but we'll see if he tries it again it's like I don't know the first the first minute he tried looked okay but he only gave it one go so he hasn't really been getting closer each time yeah and he's trying the same thing you're in Oregon so okay this is more like it this is what the root set has wanted them to do yan began to try it maybe like this 15 seconds now and that was probably the best attempts of all with the left hand he's probably not gonna be happy with this one like yeah look frustrated he may leave looking really easy after the zone and then just couldn't finish it that was one of the early attempts when he went with his right hand he went with the left on the final attempt that was another of the right hand attempts so Jakob Schubert Finian's neighboring country Austria makes his way out a resident of Innsbruck trains in the fabulous facility they've got there it's his first final this year and short isn't gonna be like super excited yeah he was second here in Wu Jiang eight months ago in the lead competition when you might remember we have to cancel the final due to bad weather no such worries here for the bouldering final and Jakov jumping with both hands to that volume as I say the route setters think going one hand at a time almost statically or at least slapping up with one hand and then getting solid it's a way to do the move yeah look way better when young do it them even better and okay so I think he a cop will need to try though he's a bit down not the answer cuz the answer is like a bit reaching but I think it's definitely better than jumping it's yeah it's not small Jakob he's definitely smaller than Yan cheese to go with the right hand what do we know yeah yan used left hand right yeah okay this is a tough move out to the zone just slipped off it after yeah come Schubert we've got Kai Radha Timon our sake and kokoro Fuji Japan ease men house for the six in the final we have three women in their final crazy rockabilly and only Europeans in the final you can see there the lights of Wu Jiang behind Jakov darkness really beginning to fall here makes it very dramatic we've got a big crowd in as well certainly the biggest crowd we've had here in Wu Jiang has previously been here for meeting speed World Cups is Saanich boulder and speed and you can see banks of people behind ya Cobb good to see the good people of Wu Jiang getting behind the climbers so yeah it's going up again with the right hand no problem this though with the first group if you can do this with a little less swing I think you should be okay that's more like it from ya Cobb how will he read this top section nobody yet tried to get on top of the that hole and it looks like he's going to swing for it you slapped out with the left hand yeah I think the tethers bit though is really hard to see so that's why everyone's destroying there's something else but I think at least like wrapping the wallet or trying to mentally tease the way to go not like you have to destroyed it because you need to like press in the top volume but we'll see maybe he manages to do it like this he's so strongly a cop even by the standards of world cup climbers he might be able to get on top of that zone yeah I think like he would be able to do the move but I think it's super hard like to see certain ideas of boots either said maybe beat us straight away so you're like never never thought of doing it like that so you just choose something different which might be harder sometimes again no problem up to the zone third time he's tried that move and the second time he succeeded this is it looks absolutely Savage it's not a big volume to mentally the top left hand comes back to the zone as we saw from yang it goes up and comes back down I'm not sure what happened there just yeah I don't know he dropped back down to the zone okay maybe he thought he's out of ammo I don't know a bit of a strange finish there from Jakov let's have another look at the jump very solid the second time his Chi Harada world champion for the 2018 in Innsbruck also his first final this year I remember correctly yeah he said he looked really strong in the semi-final really strong the crowd to hold a competition I think he flashed oh we put official products as well he did yeah brilliant semi-final earlier on here he is in the final you could see the spotlight really required now it's getting dark hits cold as well conditions very good I would imagine on the wall yes I think about the semi-final around their conditions are way way better no son what's this wall like to climb on the wall is brand new yeah I think it's pretty good there's a lot of overhang maybe there's a slab missing I don't know because men's groups I was a group in the qualification round and we had no slab at all so because in semi finals week man at the slab so maybe a slab missing overall I think it's a great wall that's it and what was your experience like last weekend in the finals what was the whole experience like did you feel a lot of pressure I felt some pressure for sure because I was starting less so I knew that everybody was either topping the problem or nobody topped the problem and I knew I had to do it as well so there was some additional pressure but every time I feel pressure like try to kind of lose it by by just not not trying to think of what others did but just like focus on topping each problem and I'm sure all the other athletes today are doing trying to do the same just focus on topping all problems and feeling like they've climbed very well no matter to find the results well there's only one person you can control and that's you yeah for sure I'm sure they're pretty spectacular dismount from Kai Harada went up with the right hand to the zone but only the right hand and he did the first move not statically he jumped yeah so four different methods for the first move which is always really nice to say I like it when people do the boulders differently the Kyle's back on again goes dynamically definitely looks like Herod is there yeah he's definitely tall enough to reach yeah Asher for sure at least like that's a bit I think yeah Cubs bigger was the best yes he's as tall exact I would say maybe a bit smaller but no he was trying it different ways where it looked bit harder yeah nobody yet top this Boulder Yan Hoya got the zone on his first go yeah cup Schubert on his third going catered oh he on his fifth go to another spectacular fall he's having some trouble like bringing his left hand to the zone hall so that's why he's lonely like for me it's wrong kind of thing less than a minute remaining down whatever the outcome Timon our sake will be out next then kakora Fuji it's in all Japanese second half of the final [Music] 35 seconds left now for Kai Harada really time you would imagine only for one more go especially if it's a good one and he gets high on the boulder making the Dino work it looks hard growing out of the right hand this time he makes it work to the zone we've got 15 seconds left for Kai Harada can he be the first climber to find the top he slaps that he'll hook on went up with the right hand and wasn't able to make it work five seconds to go and that is it for Kai Harada sir everybody I think has touched the top hold yeah everybody and nobody stayed on it root setters will want to see the ball the top it's always a shame when a boulder doesn't get a top and pad have a lot of people very close to it there may be two more I can change it will he jump at the start perhaps as Kai Harada did mr. moehner Saki came very close to winning last week in Chongqing I think he might jump the first move but we'll see I know [Applause] what is this I wonder if Kagura can do it differently like we've seen all the methods now I think oh yeah he just he basically just stood up yes yes I don't know how to describe that wasn't really a jump he didn't go statically just his other breast in the right him it's a speedy moves it's so different yeah the worse movement is amazing [Music] how was it to climb in the final with him last week anyway really like it wasn't so much different because the war was in the final that's for sure like I knew they'd have a tough field against me for sure tonight no problem up to the zone that's the second time he's tried it first time he succeeded goes up with a left hand that's how you do it leaves onto the right foot and he finds the first top of this men's final in Wu Jiang Wow Tamara Saki the first move of the final from tomorrow was amazing look at this method you just stands up gosh his heel a he moves really fast from that book so he gets really tired of that volume yeah and again the speed he went to the zone hold every movement was fast it was like a snake but he's jumping for something he's always doing moves really fast and I think sometimes that cost him over a tenth or something like that he sleeps or mrs. Paul his kokoro fuji final of 2019 for him no podiums as yet no winner in chongqing in 2018 love to pick up another win here in china timon era sakis already topped this one what walk Accord is much taller than two mowers he might go a bit slower on this one it didn't actually touch the mat sent to still his first attempt now he's touched the maps I think that slick just threw him slightly remember he has to use the volume with the four bits of tape markets who can't use that right hand one is right foots on until he's got himself stable it doesn't seem very happy in the start position one first climber who's really had any trouble at the start yeah he looks really uncomfortable with his starting position yeah but hopefully he doesn't start moving I think it looks like he's a bit nervous I don't know why no I agree he went with the left hand he some car looks like he wants to do it really safe but he likes should at least push from the volume to get some height so it went with the left hand that time when we try this time two and a half minutes remaining for kokoro being quite as tall as he is it looks a really awkward position to start from you've done a few attempts now definitely seems to like going with the left hand I think is he's trying to do the same way no Pedro he was looking a speech of the volume as well half his time gone kokoro he's not been up to the zone yet everybody else's at least been to the zone in tomorrow now sakis been to the top but kakora the first climber to look really troubled by this start this is more like it okay now he's got himself in position so this is his first attempt at going to the zone just went with a little bit too much momentum [Applause] so the bowl has already been topped to Monera sake did it he's heading to the zone as for the whole thing to be cleaned top to bottom one minute remaining now foot Kokoro and hopefully can do the walk to the zone so we can see what's his method for the table yeah Timon read it perfectly went with the left hand and just pressed yeah right heel and just pushed from the roylene and again kokoro struggling to really get himself out of the start position his running heard of thumb and he won't be awarded the zone either he definitely didn't control the zone didn't use it 25 seconds to go really needs to go quickly here even if he wants just his own kokoro so the left hand set that move with the right hand really brutal okay now he's got the zone he's got five seconds left to find the top here the feet cut loose that was optimistic from kokoro he can't find the top but he can find his own and I think that Zola's super important for him yeah that could be really important it keeps him level he used a lot of attempts to get it eight eight attempts it's just popped up on the screen okay so now we head over to men's - on the pink volumes another very physical looking Boulder and it looks a bit requires some coordination as well gliese it looks like it yeah there's quite a lot on this boulder I think so we see tomorrow Nara sake pulling ahead the only top I'm number one [Music] and that's where they're heading next men's number two pink volumes over to the right hand side just to the left of women's three with the black and yellow volumes catered oh he now first climber out four minutes begins for him got the zone on the first bullet on his fifth attempt I think qualified sits in the semi-final he climbs first in the final so it's actually not the most easy start position there we go you got to get both feet on that volume and be stable before you can do anything else let's see it now there could be a few different methods here because that the furthest right triangle you can maybe stop yourself with a bow on that and I think it's meant to stop you but we'll see there with your hand their feet maybe I would say you should use your feet good the way doc he tried was just stopping in the first volume so there are three volumes over there and you really use the first one stops on the first one okay now he moves over with the right foot since up to the dual texture you can see the left-hand side of it's very low friction [Music] now heading up towards our zone these moves really physical but generally quite easy to read it's not much to it from here it might be a little hand swap on that volume and he got himself in a good position but couldn't quite hold on to it I think you need to keep your feet on something yeah maybe you're better to hold in the volume and grab the volume of the top part which is white [Music] I think for the first one will definitely see different business as I think newsletters intended to go on from the first volume [Music] so taking quite a long rest catered though here the top sections quite physical yeah whole degree and I thinking a problem like this I think there's nothing like too tricky in the top part so he knows exactly what he needs to do and I think the best thing is to just rest to the end and make another really good trying I think so 1:15 left I think this will probably if he gets high on the border I guess this will be the last determinant there's one top so far these men's final is to monarus fe on number one everybody got the zone tonight optic what can you cater Dohee do here on number two so the first time for the successful time you stopped on this one volume there it is she's using the left hand to slap down and stop himself doing much better than before and hopefully saving some energy for the next maybe like this it's kind of finishing the top of that volume it looks really awkward [Music] [Applause] try the heel hook that time K 2 tow e he gave that everything when it's not quite enough for the top yan higher will be next out it seems like a boulder that Yan might enjoy ya think we'll see how he handles the first burger but I think he should be able to it looks like after the move the donkey fell is just like us straight forward moved to the top so four minutes begins again for Yan Hoya and his first final of 2019 just having a look at the gym I think trying to decide what his method with me remember he's not allowed to touch anything apart from the start hole so you can't go and feel those volumes just has to have an attempt and see what happens and went for the top walk and maybe he's trying to go for the dump on him can i press with his island on or one or and maybe even keep his right foot with her third volume let's see what he tries this time so that time he went with the right hand high in the left hand underneath yeah maybe now takes a bit of a rest on both of the boulders so far yams come out like a bull in the china shop just run onto the boulders now he's pausing slightly [Music] he's definitely gun likes that method of going up with the right hand think about a static method or a semi static method I think he likes that idea now he's going for the swing again it's static the crooks is proven to be the lowest section for yam hopefully we'll see him on the top part as well but it's really frustrating like when you when you know the top part is just like it suits you really well and you just can't do the the first part and I think sometimes it's sometimes you may be focused too much on the top part like you know okay I'm gonna do something I'm gonna do the moves in the top part and let me forget about the start goes back to his original method and he tried it differently this time he went low high yeah with the left hand Harvester yes but the food seemed way too high for me like he's given slightly frustrated young might as well keep using attempt is making so much now this time he makes it work fantastic body tension to just stop like that now up to the zone he's got 45 seconds left slaps up for that third to last hold matches it now he's on the penultimate hole the next one is the top it's a good hole but it's not a great one he'll have to do it in control incredible power to be able to hold himself in that position and surely the top beckons now for yan Hoyer nice yes it does like I think like he was waiting for the top section way to watch it not focusing on the lower budget through the night which seems way harder for him than the top part that was when he held it then he knew it was on yeah this is when he went for the top okay yeah up Shubert will be out next so yonder that was nine attempts it took it goes yeah cop found the zone on the first Boulder on his third attempt just having a final study of where he's goin on the jump okay attempt number one for Jakov about to get underway what will the method be so he went right hand and low left hand Heidi yeah the way Yandy didn't did so as he bathes in him they'll observe the ropes together I think another possibility maybe is what he's doing so you go right hand low left hand high and then slap the right hand yeah it might be maybe as well and we haven't seen a toe and try going high with right in and keeping your foot now goes one-handed amazing power from Jakob Schubert now he's off up to the zone needs to get the heel hook there it is now cross through to this big volume and you've got to squeeze and squeeze and squeeze while you free the left hand up could ideally do is swap in that right hand around there it is you're almost grimacing on his behalf these moves are so powerful okay here's the top for Jakob really quick ascent for him less than a minute and a half required and he gets it done it was his second attempt it puts him in the very early lead one top two zones on the first team Bowl that's got it done on his second go Corrado next to try is look really really impressive stuff from Jakob Schubert I just being meats away for a second before getting on the way and how he can go four minutes begins [Music] he's time starting too early okay she's underway on his first attempt what will the method be is struggling to get a swing now he's beginning to swing short that time his swing was really strange it took him a long time to start yeah a new one man I think he should give ed more swing for the movies it was a bit short [Music] four minutes must go so quickly in the final yeah for sure for sure like I was half a minute lower before even start the first the first try then two or three tries and that's it and it's all about the quality not quantity he tried to go with just one hand there I think like like yeah Cobb yeah I think you tried to say and I think dog betrayed the same yeah so going with the right hand low and sweet so here he goes this is more like it much bigger swing this time and holds it with one hand just like yeah Cobb did so now up to the dual texture ball then out to the zone and then he's got a wrestle with that next volume ideally like we saw with the a cup half the hand facing the other way Jesus is about to change hands before this big cross move change hands from here slightly different method from Kai Harada but I think the outcome will be the same top for him there's another top of that ball the third top of the Balder and it's for Kai Harada got it in his third attempt yeah Cup on his second yan on his ninth that was how he did it our wall mounted camera was shaking [Music] who's him on top tomorrow in our sake up next use the only person who could find the top on number one Linux second attempt here he comes on number two flash the personal for sure I think yeah flash the boulder yeah yeah same problem as well and it's really interesting like when he talks his hands he doesn't choke only his hand but only as well his forearms to kind of like wrap the volume with not just hands but as well as the forehand so when it with just the right hand but he went to the higher volume ky and the a cop and I think catered oh he went with the right hand on the lower volume yes and again chooses to go with the right suits he's kind of jumping off the foothold when he lands yeah he might be trying to hit his right foot on the next volume buddy Luke blows method really try now it's a big swing and goes you're just the right hand on the lower volume again I'm sure would set those dear me to do I didn't benefit enough to be done like that really powerful way of doing that next move just jumped straight up to the zone could do was getting that right hand facing the other way now he does it and he's got the right foot in Tamara can see the top beckoning matches on the penultimate hole gets the right foot in place top four Tamura took a few attempts but he got there so far all of the guys have just like flesh the problem once I was doing the first movement yeah [Music] Kokoro Fujita this was to MOA contact strength that was the top a familiar fist pump here comes kokoro sixth and final climber out-qualified highest in the semi-finals gets the privilege of climbing last in the finals he took a to temperance to get the zone on the first bowl that say need something big on men's to know Diaz flashed it yeah God did it ii go tomorrow did it Ferg oak I did it forego yam did it 9th go so Kokoro start swinging and I think he was going for the low right handle again it's like he made them really good at them like he wasn't going for the move but just stopped halfway now he begins swinging again one more swing goes for it and went to the right and then the left one of the guys who just stopped at the lower one landed on here on their left foot so Cooper gets to change that if he wants to stop it [Music] he didn't look very happy on Baldo one he looks a bit confused or not focused on border number to say so a bit like to mower before tried to go jump up when he landed on the feet and got with the right hand to the higher volume I'm not sure if he's decided which method to use right one more swing and here you'll go it looks like it's an unnecessary extra movement to go a left-hand Shore for showcased EKGs latitude on the volume now and we know that because yeah we know we know that but he's not sure yeah he's not sure what to do but he tried I don't know two different methods maybe three I think he just needs to decide for one at night is usually when you're trying different matters it's really good if you gather you can get good or bad information from a try and if you don't try really hard you don't know if the move is possible or not so you just kind of keep trying the same thing over and over again even if it's not the easiest thing to do in the end or not even possible because we haven't seen none of the guys do the first move by going to the higher one I think everyone did it yeah now he's trying a new method again he's going with the right hand like everybody else but then also kind of slapping with the with the left hand he closed this dry so I think you'd try something else again I was wrong have a good thing I was wrong is I really wanted him to the air to the top section he got there took him a lot of attempts Kokoro let's have a look when he scores flash up how many attempts it took him he's used a lot of attempts on ball Dewani she's a lot of attempts on boulderr2 and this is going to be his last one on ball the two he's not really out of time for another go and there was seven attempts to get there so seven attempts on the zone on Boulder to eight attempts on ball to one this was how he did it in the end actually it looked really nice at the left hand yes stopping in this if you do this because tamale did it didn't want him yeah too bad too bad for him but nothing the problem as I think is that he always looks super strong but always sleeps frozen so a completely different change of style now we're over to men's three on the far left-hand side of the wall it is a slab very balanced II also quite a powerful move in it it could be really interesting one the root set does seem to think that this is maybe not one of the harder boulders there is affecting to see a few tops well it doesn't look the easiest one they definitely know but we'll see maybe maybe cities [Applause] you see there Timon our sake leading the way to tops for him on the first two boulders Jakob Schubert and Kai Harada in the provisional podium after two boulders yen higher and kata Dohee and kakora Fuji rounding out the top six it's very close so kokoro and Cator need to find something here or they could get left behind but the front for right now very close and as we pan across the wall that was men's four we'll be there in less than half an hour I'd imagine firstly the men's three we're over on the left-hand side of the wall you can see there on the blue on the blue panels two great circles that's where we're headed and then the climbers will hopefully get on top of them and then head out right to the two green circles just awaiting the arrival of k2 Dohee he's in the doorway ready to come out got the first zone on his fifth attempt the second zone on his second attempt but no top on either Boulder so far for him kata looks ready to go just caught the glimpse of him backstage he's in that left-hand door way over on the left of the stage who's next to the scoreboard is he at the left on the speed wall great final ahead on Friday night check out the replay on YouTube still he's being made to wait just look across the stage to see if there's any issues no judge is running around and it seems to be easy for the delay they'll be out shortly there he is and here he comes so he's not got far to go it's right next to the door so that's the top start hold the feet go on the round one just below he's choosing to start it statically you can actually take a little run at this three bout to the left get himself on top of that gray ball hopefully and then there is a tiny tiny green foothold in the middle of the blue panel directly underneath and left hand green volume yes we will see him and step there in a second yeah there it is just appeared for a second [Applause] it's so easy to this point so yeah the first few looks okay yeah it looked a bit maybe the first move is even easier if you're running like you said but we'll see if someone does it there's usually everyone's just trying to climb as safe as possible so that's why we're not seeing dynamic moves if they're not necessary suddenly the curtain is in your way there let's go back to our man on the mat creeping up so catered oh he has been up here already that's the right foot of it was absolutely tiny it's good to try that volume this time it looks better this is not an easy move though there's no black tape he's entitled to put his right foot out there and that is a top doesn't have to jump to the top doesn't have to hang off it daddy's good enough so top for him that's his first top in this final it was his second attempt yan higher out next [Music] yeah the root Assessors were saying they expect to see some tops on this one and yeah that's like the seal on the top yeah it definitely looked easiest so far like the only rule that was a bit tricky was the move to the ball when he had to like stood up on a small football but apart from that but we'll see how others go here it's always hard to judge after one client for sure but yeah Kate though he made most of that Boulder look pretty straightforward he Angus both using the volume er looking for something where those screw holes are usually to become the volume so it just uses I didn't look so comfortable just getting stood up there though he pressed himself from the bill columns before he was putting his right foot up yan tried to do it and try to put his right foot before somebody that was there that's another attempt for young does this would be a tent number three when he pulls on slightly more dynamic start as is interesting is struggling with the lower section of it and using a few more attempts catered oh he got that zone on his first go ending up too far left I think he's doing that just to get just to make this could go up easier I would say that's why he's leaning to the left but the way doc idiot looked looked okay but I think it might be a bit a bit harder for him because he's a bit taller I just think he just looks delight now take a deep breath Carla ham because he's been just making so much drive through all the foot throughout the whole competition yeah the first two balls he jumped on and even though he's just making really quick movements in the wall it's only just off vertical this wall you can't you can't move quickly on it you can see there those two volumes not great to hold on to Yama's really hope he eats directly underneath them he's really having to hang on it he's I think he's trying to put way too much weight on his arms instead of this good bit because he's in the slab it's all about standing on your feet not using your hands too much 50 seconds left yeah and the four minutes feels like it's gone quite quickly here again choosing to use those screw holes that pulls himself on again now [Music] trying a different method again that right hand facing inwards he's definitely struggle converted OFI 20 seconds now probably only got time to get to the zone if he can do this move 12 seconds now time becoming a real issue for yan and that is so frustrating for him as we'll stay on one top and two zones yak of Shubert will be next out to get on with things straight away yeah calm [Music] chooses to go to the static start reached out without even look into the green volume and knows exactly what he wants and the brushes knows which brush you want [Music] choosing the static start goes out blind to the green volume as proof in the hand up yeah this is what Yan was struggling with yes and the doesn't seem to be too comfortable as well okay maybe no yeah this is the the way though he did it I guess if you're left straat left shoulder is strong enough so yeah the right foot is terrible hey you can't really move on it I can yeah and his right foot it was a bit low for the night we're standing up oh yeah you've climbed on these gray volumes is the best play best thing to have your foot as high as possible yeah it's gonna in the center I think the best thing is is to hurry to the center so he kind of just stand up directly and you have and you want to have as much surface as possible because you were standing too far to the left he was only using his point of the Shuar which could cause you to slip and that's exactly what happened office time already elapsed P yeah from Schubert Kai Harada will be out after him followed by tomorrow now sake and finally kakora Fuji shakes out final preparations and he gets underway his next attempt his method of standing up seemed quite good as you say to end up with his foot in the wrong place some sage he needs to commit to moving out right where he's trying to because ok huggy he corrected his good position so now it should be better on the right floor actually slipped but helmet yeah Cobb he's over to the zone he's definitely controlled the zone and will have been awarded it by the judges so one minute to go you feel bad talking if anything that might disturb him yeah it's so tenuous for ya cop now he's both hand over to the zone he stood really well his move really slowly over to the right now he to hook in that zone could ideally do getting his hands on top that is frustrating I think there's nothing for a good try no you don't have to rush now and really rushing makes it a great harder and definitely didn't need that no joy for Yakov I think he knows there's no time left he was close so frustrated it stands he's in third place one top and three zones interestingly nobody on to top apart from tomorrow no saki who hasn't attempted to this Boulder here comes Chi here Radha one top and two zones for him he got the first zone on his sixth attempt he got the second zone on top on his third attempt okay he's using their running medical yeah it looks at easier method to start and it's not the foothold easy using for the right hand yeah I think it is yeah he's pushing off it there definitely looks doable looks doable yeah hey ask them to brush it so he obviously likes it [Music] interested suffered by much quicker start you can see their complete darkness here now in Wu Zhu and a big crowd watching he's going for the green while him though maybe got slightly distracted by the foot hold you don't really need to use it for your hands very smooth standing up just as he said yeah sorry tight well yeah like putting his foot up looks way easier than when yeah couple interesting he's taking much longer between attempts than yeah Cobo yeah each try cause it's all about bears very smooth standing up yeah looking really really smooth here sky her Ardis it's going to jump for the top a thing I'm he's squeezing the life out of that volume amazing coordination just needs to find a way to match the top I'm pretty sure he's being awarded that it hasn't been awarded it no I don't think so Mikey he wasn't in complete control no interesting no but it's all up to judge not me but that's why we have judges what happens he's right how I think I might have given that to him but anyway the judges didn't they know a lot more about it than I do it's a bit strange he didn't use the right volume but surely they observed the problem together maybe he forgot about you know maybe it's got no problem up to the zone now it just needs to be much more clear to the judges if he tops it this time right hand can't get himself stable that's the problem you can we saw okay to stick his right foot out Kyah Rada that is disappointing thought he might be thinking about another girl but no decides against it only one table so far yeah so I'm sure there's some discussion going on you guys watching at home whether that was a top whether it wasn't a difficult decision for the judges but they said no top this is really nice how he went up to the zone if he was like maybe he called me because it maybe touching his at the no touching his other hand there Samoa there's keen to get go it's like a dog that wants to come off from the sea is ready this is my turn yet Oh for tomorrow's like it's like he's thrown the ball for the dog and the yeah and didn't let him go has to wait a bit longer so Chi Chi Harada narrowly missing out one thing to be aware of if tomorrow tops this that he's gonna win no because he's got two tops and nobody else has got more than one he could actually win the competition on this Boulder yes very good chance of stopping this yeah he does have a very good chance of topping it I'm just looking down the scores cook or a Fuji won't be able to catch him neither will yeah neither what kind neither caters neither would ya come nobody else has got more than one top to Moe's got to so he could make it three tops of even top hey I've just been told by the way that the judges are watching Kai Hirata's top /no top so we'll see what the outcome of that appeal is if Kai is award at the top then Timon can't win it on this Boulder be slightly more complicated so maybe there that's why the was waiting yeah this isn't something you want there for sure especially because it could change everything if the appeal is unsuccessful then tomorrow could win here and if it's successful then it still goes to the last Boulder so it adds a whole element to it it's also quite cold yeah and we jangan tomoow is just standing there waiting yeah and he's been waiting ever since he finished the second problem so you you felt that him it wasn't you it wasn't the top yeah I mean I know it's close yeah no it's not close to us it was super close but for me it felt like was controlled he feels like slightly moving and then here we're still waiting has presumably been an official appeal and Coloradas top and the video of it will be getting studied now it's like delay welcome to those of you just tuning in you missed an excellent woman's file I won't give the result away charlie Bosco and repair hawk watching this men's final and some controversy it would seem over Chi Harada stop or not top and still we wait it's a hard decision for the judges we decide whether he was in control of that top hold okay I've just been told actually that Kai has been awarded the top it's not showing up on the live scores here in the venue to Mars on the Med so I guess they made a decision what we see so I mean I'm just actually just pulled up the IFS see rules for 2019 and a competitor's attempt this is rule 8.17 be a competitor's attempt will be judged successful where a competitor is in a controlled position with both hands of match on the top hole it's a judgment yeah that doesn't actually help to clear it up but that is the rule that is being discussed we're looking at the scores not been updated better than mine [Music] Wow just cruising yeah Timon regardless is closing in on the top hold and slaps it angrily so to marinara sake he has got three tops on the scores as the standard on the scoreboard we're looking at and that we're being SEM that is enough for him to win the competition but if what I'm being told through my headphones is correct then Kai Harada has been award at the top and it moves on to the last Boulder now he made very light work of it tomorrow didn't hang around at all it was only his second attempt here comes kokoro fuji [Music] so kakora fujiko's out again I'm being told that Cuyahoga was awarded the top even though it's not showing up on the scores so Kai still able to win the competition he is two people to win it yeah hopefully the score will update quickly for now though let's keep an eye on kakora Fuji the win that sadly is gone for him I couldn't live on the podium actually depending how a hum for the results go the way on men's three they're from the Paducah four top here he was come back didn't look that comfortable on the first two boulders maybe a bit indecisive couldn't quite decide how he wanted to do them looking a bit more in control this damage yeah no problem across to the zone is much taller which I think probably makes that move a bit easy and it probably makes the top a bit easier as well slaps the top light to mower again nobody since caters has put the right foot out it seems the the logical thing to do that is the scene here in Wu Jiang beautiful evening excellent conditions I would suspect on the walls like tomorrow has just I don't know it's such a good group of the items just slapping out this volume and that was it still waiting Kokoro remember after this we've still got ball the four which is a return to very physical boulders begins to pull on again kokoro fuji this is the third final is appeared in in 2019 not been on a podium yet and if he can't find something here will continue needs this you want even a chance of a podium already got the zone already touched the top hole but couldn't convert it into a top how he goes out with the right hand that seems such a logical thing to do but it's the angle of the wall is not ideal but it's enough so kokoro does find the top in the end third go he got the zone on his second go and we move on now to ball the four still waiting for the results to update and we're moving on to number four again very physical looking Boulder you start with you at your feet on that gray hold there we see it Colorado and now being awarded it's still on the scoreboard and the venue not being awarded it but you could see there he keeps a competition alive Kai Harada his award at the top yeah cup Schubert with one top catered dough he with one top kakora Fuji with one top and Yan Hoya with one top as well sit right now leader with three second with two everyone else with one and finally the big scoreboard in the venue updates Kai Harada was award at the top and he moves into second place and it means that timon era sake has not yet won the competition he has got work to do on number four he is sitting in first place so if nobody can get a zone if nobody can really make a dent on the ball that he'll win hasn't won it yet tomorrow you need the zone of the foot problem even if Kai flashes it he's gonna still be worse than trying zone so let's see the problem now yes it definitely doesn't look these asprova no you go up here with the zone and then ideally you got to drop me that's exactly how you do it okay todo he had it right with the first movement go with the drop knee cross through over to that huge pink volume and there's a tiny little screw on that you're aiming for just to make life a bit easier good first attempt from him you've got one top and four zones so far cater plenty of time remaining [Music] so you can see the start position that big gray volume he's got to get both his feet on that and then there's a small crimp for the right hand no being on the edge of a volume for the left hand he's just stopping studying to see if he's missed some he hasn't he's got the method right from what the roots have to say it looked okay as well I'm surprised he pause for so long now he comes through with the right hand will pop over to the zone with the left he's already been up here in position across his fruit right hand it's such a hard position to hold in the schools first the left from where he's grabbing the volume so I think he needs to like match with left hand on the school and I think nobody can see the screw on because it's underneath the volume even we don't see it on the video but we just know it it's definitely there I promise so you need yeah I think it's somewhere in the middle of the volume yeah then watching so maybe cross over like this and slap with your left hand to the screw so okay - though he could secure self a podium position here but he can't win the competition in fact only to Monera sake or kinda Rada could win it from here it's going to be a Japanese win it could be in all Japanese podiums first things first so catered oh he could do with finding the top here on number 4 27 seconds of raining now he's up to the zone he's had a few attempts at these moves I just missed that time he's not going to have time for another go well as it stands he would be on the podium but with five climbers still to come it could all change there's a good performance in the final for him ended up with just a one top but all four zones here comes en hoya currently sitting in sixth position time begins four minutes for young let's see maybe I can do it he's a bit taller so maybe their crossover move would be easier for me about starting this different completely different start okay what is a young got in mind here completely different method I'm impressed with all of that and I think is the only compare like wrap the volume from the the bed you can see from the way that chalk dispersed it when picking up here in Wu Jiang we do have some bad weather forecast probably overnight hope it doesn't arrive before the conclusion of this final I'm pretty sure it won't 2 minutes 50 remaining now for yam which start will he attempt will he take the so-called traditional start loose off from catered oh he now he likes his start looks awkward there's a lot of force going through his left knee when he tries it that one here for sure he needs to keep a lot of French for just going wings up to the zone hold while the dog he was using his left heel just pushing really really hard and now he gets the right hand landed so he's got himself in the same position his Caicedo he but got there a completely different way now he goes out to that huge pink volume just needs to pump his hands around until he can get all of the screw on and went up for the top of the volume and he looked closer yan just somehow like pressed into the volume but he was not like calling you but pressing up so good solution seems like a good solution but we'll see if he can finish it he definitely needs a thought for the podium yeah even that zone hasn't moved him up out of 6th place so it needs a top if you want to have a chance at a podium Yan Hoya it was a really physical method of doing what is an already physical Boulder it seems to be working for him I think you'll probably try that method again you have to flank it sure I just hope his food doesn't slip of the start hold my keys he will be running out of that brilliant soon so this is the this is the hard move with the yang method is that slap with the right hand just bumping that right hand down [Music] I'm he's close yan he's just over half a minute to go decides against another go really good to see ya know you're back in the finals couldn't reward us with the top there on Bal de for but good to have him back under the bright lights brutal last moves Luke super hard yakov Schubert will be out next so Jakob as it stands he's currently in fourth place one top and three zones got a very quick top on the second Boulder got it second attempt he goes for the more traditional start who's going for the semesters yarn but we needed to get in the position for that yeah he's gone with the left hand onto that volume really needs his right hand there see yeah transfers the left back down now he gets the right hand in place and now he should be on his way to the zone latches that he's used a lot of energy getting to this stage yeah cut but he should be in position now now he's over to the big pink volume and he's got himself directly underneath it I'm struggling to hold on okay I think he'll take some rest nod to just do it by the tribe now he knows what he needs to do in the start yeah he used a lot of energy I think yeah we're sure really going up and down yeah remember all that's left to do after this is get on the plane tomorrow and go back to Innsbruck so he doesn't need to save any more energy but it's just having enough gas for another good goal by flashing the the problem zone he also took the third place because you will in flash it he would be a student poor place so that was an important first try for him yeah he's moved him up Kokoro still to come who couldn't knock him off the podium but yeah he's moved himself up onto the podium positions for now yeah cop and kakora definitely needs a job done right yeah he wouldn't need the top he needs a double that's it yeah yeah come could well have sealed himself a place on the podium which would be great for him because he wasn't happy with how his bouldering season started it's getting well underway now looking he's got himself directly under his right arm he's keeping the foot on that seems to be the problem Luc's okay into his left foot slips he's quite stretch of the river thing and the foot is not good at all yeah we've seen a total of just seven so eight tops in this final for the men so far antimony Osakis got three of them yeah Cup I think we'll wait until 30 seconds to go 35 goes a little earlier but this will be it for yeah cup Schubert assuming you can get through the first few moves and doesn't slip early on this is the one fatigue surely a factor now he's got the right hand it just somehow needs to keep the feet in on that was closer but not enough 20 seconds ago and he looks so frustrated with himself but if kokoro can't find the top it will take a bronze medal Jakob that looked way better like he joined his right foot to the gray volume here indeed a toe hook with his right right good and it looked way better but too bad his foot slipped yeah the first person he spoke to actually down at the front was yam hoya I think you were comparing notes so Kylie Harada he can win this competition a top here would put him in the first place he may not stay there but it would move him up [Music] so if kakora Fuji still to come the podium will not be set let alone the order until the last climate Kai Harada absolutely flying so far crosses through the right hand this is the move that's proved wrong so far but not for Kai top hole is massive but can he free up his left hand well enough to go for it gets the right heel hook in place Kai pinchy with all he's gone tops for the for Kai awry the first person to top that one why they'll put himself in the lead [Music] they'd look them lazy so Kai Rada goes into the lead not only tops that you flashes it so Timon needs to get the zone pretty quickly that's about all it required a top seals it completely and also a zone if de ma get zoning six tries yeah so there a lot of try setting everyone have a zone so far so yeah you're right everybody's happens in fact everybody's had the zone on their first attempt so Timon likely to get it you would think but we'll see so two MOA yeah I need to Zone in lesson half a dozen attempts to win the competition if he can top the boulder he wins it purely on number of tops and he'd be the only climber with four [Music] it seems a bit short it's a bit of an a jump to get started how it gets underway okay that's it so that's his own for tomorrow he secured the win of the competition he hasn't yet secured the top card is flash looking more impressive by the second but that zone is enough for Timon arasaka to take the gold medal he was closed last week in Chongqing a full start on men's three cost him maybe going a little too fast too fast like nobody jumped from there but dividers like okay I can do it they can hold the swing yeah so tomorrow winner of the competition it's never quite as dramatic when someone doesn't hear head by topping but he is the winner of the competition we know that maybe the other hard one before us though its acts like he deserve this hate it deserve it Kyra it is surely a relaxing for him knowing that here a new one you would imagine so yeah first win for him for over a year it was Moscow 2018 his last win so he's back up to the zone which needs to go a little slower here that's more like it and he's close as he brings up the left hand so tomorrow and our sake is going to be first card is going to be second as it stands Jakob Schubert will be served kakora fuji could take it away from him though if you could fund the top we shall see one minute 55 bought a mower to seal his winning perfect style by topping this Boulder a couple of really good attempts tomorrow with a minute and a half left it's got time for another really good attempt how long will you break though that's the question he wants to make one more attempt if he goes now do not have time for another good attempt as you want to rest at least like 10 20 seconds in between each attempt yeah he's taking a long rest here tomorrow I think this is it Now or Never he's free of any pressure now the wind is in the bag okay here we go g-man he'd be able to hear the Japanese crowd behind us giving lots of encouragement huge Japanese team shouting fought to MOA oh he went for the top from miles away and I think he liked that method cuz he's been try it again it's the only one the competition he's got 20 seconds left I think he's just thought why not if anybody is moving itself oh well yeah you have time to do a lead route in 20 seconds now it goes out to the big dish and I think he'll jump from here now I tried to match it wasn't it couldn't quite decide which method to use but it math is not for Timon our sake is going to win the competition bokura fuji could move himself onto the podium could get himself a bronze medal if he could find the top and it would be in all Japanese podium if he can't find the top yeah Kurt Schubert will take the bronze medal [Music] gentlemen fruit near competition this is elastic here comes kokoro is looking for a top to make himself onto the podium it's got four minutes to find one the ball has already been topped it's been flashed by kai Harada [Music] [Music] so kakora wrestling with these volumes now he's out to the zone that doesn't help him though stay right where he is if he can't find a top pick dish it's that moves that's poor so many problems yeah I think the volume was really not good not that good but he struggled with the start as well like he didn't know what to do and I think he spent like 10 15 seconds just trying to figure out what to do anything so far so maybe he'll have a better second go [Music] it's still only a second go coming up the car up you can see how big the crowd is comfortably the biggest crowd we've ever had we Jim when we've been here for lead World Cups huge crowd now Lenny more I foresee action coming up as well in just two weeks time we'll be in Munich speaking about big and enthusiastic crowds and then the boulder and season finale is in Vail a few weeks after that and then the leave season begins a lot more to come for now though we've got two minutes left of this final it's all about kakora Fuji looking for a place on the podium get safely out to the zone but that won't affect his ranking needs a top you went with the right hand but immediately cut loose that time I think he went for the squirrel directly way it looks so hard like to keep your feet in and you lose the ozone hole as well as once her body goes iller only I think one a good event for him yeah you would imagine so you could see their Jakob Schubert and the an hoya down the front Jakob might be watching slightly nervously because there's a podium on the line here for him one minute to go now for tomorrow the beeper sounds for Tomoko Kokoro school yes as the beeper sounds pulls back on he's had a long rest he's got 15 seconds left [Music] bit like tomorrow maybe just needs to slow it down slightly its release in this left hand that causes the problems I went for the top light to mower 34 seconds to go he has got just about enough time for another attempt if you wanted it I'll go for it why not [Music] 18:17 is actually got plenty of time especially if he goes direct at the top which I think he might lining it up kokoro 8 seconds to go now tries to match and can't quite find a way so kokoro stays where he is Jakob Schubert takes a bronze medal just have another look and look at all the lines and the gray while you black everyone just sleeping off that gray volume yeah it tells its own story good job by the route setters every ball the top winner got three second got three and just one top for everyone else down the order but every ball the top really nicely done and that final ball but and the first one only taught by one person so it is tomorrow now sake you can see it there three tops for him he got all four zones kai Harada not far behind him but missing out as it turned now only on attempt to zone Jakob Schubert takes a bronze medal catered oh he fought kakora Fuji in fifth and Janna Oya in sixth we'll have the top three presented on stage and then we're hoping to grab a word with two mower before we go off air and mention Iliad don't forget we've got an awful lot of action coming up in a fortnight's time we're going to be in Munich always a fabulous event always a sold-out a very enthusiastic crowd in the Olympic Stadium and in the second weekend of June we'll be in Vail Colorado for the final bouldering woke up at the season but of course don't forget we'll also be in Hachioji so there's a world championship for the boulders to play for as well later in the year and Jakob super quite understandably looked absolutely delighted with his third-place Chi Harada second for him brilliant performance had that slight controversy on number three did he topic did he not he was awarded it in the end but nobody could catch this man timon era sake top the first three boulders nobody else could do that he is a World Cup winner once again he's had quite a long wait for another win and it's come at last here in Wu Jiang and he's going to head down to the off the stage swing around and we will grab a live chat with him I'm just keeping my out the interview pen is right next to his here in the commentary box however Angie a good final enjoyable to watch yeah for sure for sure I would say enjoyed the men's final more than in women's maybe in women's I don't know there wasn't too much then tension between their life prepare the clambers were not so competitive and like we weren't waiting for the winner to the last problem and I think that was way better in men's category say I would say good finally all the finalists like ranked really good like you said before and we're pretty close I believe to hearing from Tamara now sakis down the front Takako hoshi one of the japanese coaches is there to help translate let's get down to tomorrow and eddie at the front timon our sake winner here in whooshing china you must be pleased after it just snuck away from you last weekend how are your feelings at the moment in the second place I'm so happy to win this game today I'm happy for you as well tomorrow what are your plans for the rest of the season I hear that you might be missing Munich to compete in Japan at the combine champs will you be back for a full lead season after that jung yong-hwa chances tonight the coton that they must antonio pires cut a new hair fancy stairs no no cannot combine the charm on top oh no Tommy Cho specialist I will train for the Japan's combine Japan cup skipping min hang and for the senato no say she's an American you are equally rotten holiday also called a what are you showing an optimist I aim to win in the veil portable World Cup in coming up excellent well we're really excited to watch it we hope to see lots of tomorrow thank you very much tomorrow Nara sake so there we have it tomorrow naira sake we just heard from her suddenly won't we sing in Munich from what we've just heard but he takes a win here in Wu Jiang and maybe back in Vail in a month or so time Kai Harada takes a silver medal Jakob Schubert with the bronze catered oh he fought and kakora Fuji in fifth over on the women's side you can see there yeah Agarn Bret for tops for her untouchable Ashley has been throughout this whole bouldering season kiona gucci and i mori collecting another couple of medals for japan on what was another excellent day for them Miho nanaka was fourth Jessie Piltz fifth and Julia Channel D in her first ball during final ended up sixth now we could see the wall in Wu Jiang a roaring success in its first appearance as a work up bouldering venue just getting ready for the podium ceremonies I'm awaiting the awarding ceremony good to hear from Samoa and the annual I've see their Graham Allison down the front our FSC technical delegate that this event had a bit of work to do with that appeal from Colorado so we'll have the podium ceremonies very shortly will be a slovenian japan picking up the gold medals [Music] [Music] it looks as if we're should be just about ready to get going with the podiums some of the Chinese volunteers are having their picture taken on the stage in Wu Jiang the women out first on the podium another gold medal for a new guard Brett nobody has really got that close to it in 2009 teens have been challenged but just about every world cup that she's always looked as if she would find a way to win yeah young Ghana at your camp a tree what do you think what if she doesn't win the other World Cups why will that be do you think it's is it just a question of motivation and concentration for Yaya yeah I think the reason would be like the lack of motivation feels like right now everyone is just like expected her to win and even if she like usually when other climbers climbing's like usually when they top wait oh wait when they don't top the problem like we're just like a bit disappointed well we expect you to top the problem but with Yaya it's the it's the tries that are the problem like if she doesn't flash it or does it mean few tries were just like whoa we are there that's wrong with you like and that's wrong for us to expect from her like she's like any other competitor competitor like we should be happy for every win the chain gets got wait too much used her winning competition after competition might happen that she's not what waited one day but hopefully she stays motivated for she already is is gonna be a bigger is the way she wins is just amazing Here Come our female polar mists Japan is also doing a really great job to polio in third place there I'm Mori appearing in a first semi-final earlier on today than her first final tonight now she's on her first podium it doesn't get much better than that that just crazy I think Japanese like they have one competitor each year that just like comes of their first cup and just goes straight to the final like even I think ray from Moscow that was his first or second competition he was already Final which is this crazy there is amore I just mentioned it has such a good semi-final and more than followed it up with her performance in the final a well deserved bronze medal for her the first of four medals that will be awarded to Team Japan here in Wu Jiang she was the joint youngest person in the semi-final on either men's all the women's side today [Music] she turns 16 this year akia Noguchi turns 30 this year and just seems to be getting better and better with age she almost never seems to be injured she never seems to suffer a loss of form she's always strong she's always right there and she will win yet another silver medals she's got 21 World Cup wins today it's a silver another one for the trophy cabinet [Music] Oh there is yummy gum Brett win it here in Wu Jiang we are four World Cups into the season she has won them all she's pretty much dominated them all the only color she normally deals with his gold at his World Cup win number 23 it for her she now has more World Cup wins than she has years of being alive it is quite incredible what she's doing here yeah new guard Brett she really is rewriting the rules so we'll hear the Slovenian national level [Music] [Applause] [Music] change or Jeremiah 30 million ladies and gentlemen the batteries so the Akiane gucci and i'm re-join young eagle brett on the top step of the podium photographers take their turn to grab a picture chinese diggities taking their turn and podium as well [Music] and inevitably the questions will start throughout candy and you'll win every other Cup we shall see in two weeks time in Munich she's got number five Colorado for number six you know what the real question is can she make finals there's been a few people asking that question could we let her loose on the men's boulders I agree sadly I don't think we're going to see anything interesting I think it's better for us if you're going to you know it's probably belly it'll make us all feel better here come the three podium Asst for the men two more medals handed out to Japan and Austria we'll be taking one back as well [Music] yeah dignitaries including Graham Allison being introduced they will be carrying out the medal ceremony yeah come Schubert one of Innsbruck spinous takes a bronze medal for Austria's bouldering season didn't get off to the start he wanted but he's hitting his straps now bronze medal for him last year in his home city he won the lead competition in the World Championships he won the combined as well be interested to see what he can do in the lead season but for now great result for him in the bouldering third place he's gonna be super happy with Kai Harada the 2018 bouldering world champion from that same fabulous event in Innsbruck last September he takes the silver medal [Music] he was close to Timon our sake in the end he just has some catching up to do to most tops of the first three boulders really just gave him a lead and nobody could rein him in but Kai came close welcome silver medal for him this was the man they couldn't catch so Timon arrows sake woke up winner again all those won the World Cup in Chongqing a week ago but slipped as he started the third Boulder he makes a mend as a week later in wood Jang another win for him the next time we see him in action will be in Colorado in a month's time and then we're in his home city of Tokyo for the World Championships who'd bet against him on this kind of forum now we turn towards a big screen and we'll hear the Japanese national anthem [Music] [Applause] so there we have it Jakob Schubert in third place car during second and timon era sake the win it here in weed yang [Music] great to hit Japan for medals going back with them [Music] now we see tomorrow sad to hear he won't be in Munich but he will be in Vail and have no doubt he'll also be in hachioji a few months time [Music] and so concludes a fantastic couple of events in China Angie thank you very much because they thoroughly enjoyed having you and belated congratulations on last week fantastic result thank you thank you very much for watching at home we will see you in just two weeks time in Munich and never offer that fail for the conclusion of the bolder World Cup seasons the fireworks get underway here in Wu Jiang of others we'll see you in a couple of weeks [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] you you

Channel: International Federation of Sport Climbing

Views: 593,329

Keywords: Sport, Climbing, IFSC, 2019, #IFSCwc, world cup, men, women, Finals, boulder, bouldering, live, China, Wujiang, Competition, streaming, climbing, replay

Id: w4d0jn9aQFY

Length: 237min 13sec (14233 seconds)

Published: Sun May 05 2019

Reddit Comments

[u/peppermint1729]

Janja makes it look too easy! Damn!!

[u/DustRainbow]

Super exciting men's final.

[u/3rdtimesacharms]

What shoes are Miho wearing? Did she switch sponsors? They do not look like her Tenaya Oasi's. See 1:28:52.

[u/Tarsiz]

God Janja is strong. I'm fairly sure she is stronger than a good number of the guys, pound for pound. Such a flawless technique and a natural reading of the boulders in addition to her impressive power and finger strength.

[u/Jrodvon]

Nice