2021 USA Climbing National Team Trials – Female Bouldering Final

you i think winter has become my favorite season here that's when you get those dramatic views brings out all the colors and the gray pops and it just i feel like it's kind of like mecca or the center of the universe it's not a fluffy place to come it's not a feel good boost your ego it's just like you get eating yeah if i could only climb one place for the rest of my life it would be 70. since 1966 we have viewed walls not as obstacles but as opportunities from the big walls of yosemite to the high peaks of the himalaya we were searching for a personal kind of freedom in this pursuit we found a community strengthened by different stories experiences and perspectives this community has shown us that the only way forward is [Music] [Applause] here we together [Music] the battles no one hears about we drop into the middle of firefights to rescue others and act as one-man air traffic control towers we're the ones who go before all others join the fight [Music] uh [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] welcome to the usa climbing national team trials presented by yeti we are in memphis tennessee where the best climbers in the country have gathered to compete for a national team spot after over a year away from competitions we're at the beautiful high point climbing and fitness here in music city following an exciting semifinals round these athletes are preparing to give it their all we're back for the women's bouldering finals and the athletes are currently finishing up their preview of the boulders i'm megan martin alongside alex johnson and alex the rounds that we've seen so far with the qualifying round in the semifinal round they've been very difficult and after looking at the boulders it seems like they're not letting up yeah the first two rounds this weekend have been really exciting a little bit of upset in who made the finals um some names are familiar with and walking through and previewing these rounds the finals boulders seem like possibly the most fun boulders i've ever seen really excited about seeing what these women will do tonight we're going to take a look at that running order right now now remember that the first person going out is that sixth place finisher being kyra conde one of our olympic qualifiers followed by campbell saranopoulos kylie cullen megan lynch brooke rabatu and natalia grossman and alex who is your pick to end up on the podium tonight uh i i like to pull for the dark horses and tonight i think i'm gonna have to say megan lynch she has really shown up this weekend and climbing really confidently and really proving that she deserves to be here um super super impressive climbing from her in the semifinals and qualifying round and i can't wait to see what she does tonight uh who's your pick megan so i'm gonna have to go with natalia grossman she has been on fire for the last couple of years and she is the 2020 bouldering nationals champion for the women and she's had some amazing rounds since she's been here and in the semifinal round earlier today she was able to top three of the four boulders and even had one hand on the finish hold for that fourth folder and let that top just slip away barely so i know she's gonna come into this round with a lot of fire and i feel like we're gonna see some great things from her today we're gonna start in a couple minutes kyra connie out there ready to get going and let's get this finals off to a start can't wait to watch you guys are gonna be in for an awesome treat tonight these boulders look amazing do i okay [Music] kyra condi just waiting for that go ahead to get started on women's number one and taking a look at it this is probably the most dynamic boulder we've seen thus far in the competition as it's starting with a nice run across for the women to attempt and you know not something that they're not used to seeing i think this is a movement that's practiced a lot but the root centers are definitely capable of making each run across a little different so it's kind of more of a learned movement definitely a learned movement and a movement that kyra's been actively working on i think the root setters really wanted to come out with kind of a show opener for finals here tonight we don't have spectators so everyone watching will be on youtube tonight and i think this is an awesome show opener run across dino and then once you stick that jug at the end of the running cross it's a downward jump onto the gray volume below and then you double hand catch the zone hold really nice correction there by catching it with two hands on that second attempt looks like she's gonna try to static down changing her mind quickly the better decision i'm always right i didn't say you were wrong she was doing that really nicely into the zone now this is where the boulder is gonna get a little more technical the way i sequenced this was with the arete some compression out to the right with the right hand and a heel hook really hard squeezing on that sloper and kyra's gonna have i think some skin issues she's one of the athletes competing in all three disciplines this weekend it's five days of climbing super nice uh finish here for pyro finals really nice nice use of that aurette as well you called that perfectly and hopefully all the women see that since they did get to preview that's probably something they did talk about right but sometimes it's easy to get tunnel vision about features 2020 bouldering nationals uh 20 semi-finals athletes came out for boulder one and there was a hole around the left a red and i think two or three used it two or three saw it and used it and i was one of the 20 that didn't see it and i was in the booth just wishing i could tell you all to use that rat it was painful to watch i remember that really nice really nice lateral dyno there for kyra good fix choosing not to go static really committing to that press getting that one hand on the top and making sure she secured herself before bringing that second hand she's been rushing in a bit lately so it was nice to see her think about her body positions a little bit more and not leave anything at risk campbell serenopolis 17 years old this is her first adult competition and she just made finals which is really exciting to see that younger generation is very talented and we're seeing them more and more come into these adult competitions and really excel [Music] getting into that run across didn't generate quite enough to get so many steps needed to get over to how far away that right jug is you really have to sort of drive your momentum over your knees and keep keep your center of gravity which is your upper body like charging forward otherwise as soon as you start to peel back you lose that momentum a little better on that attempt but it really is like a sprint across especially if you're smaller you saw that she was or is five one so she's gonna need to generate even more than someone like cairo who's three inches taller right here we're gonna need to see her like keep her head down and like charge she does train at abc kids climbing so this is something that the coaches are prepping their athletes for so it's not something new to her but she is on that bigger stage and currently doing a good job with her adjustments on each try mm-hmm it is really good especially on a boulder like this to take a second because you can easily find yourself feeling winded after literally doing cardio on the boulder so you want to make sure you save your energy way better getting closer and closer each time plenty of time on the clock still two minutes is definitely still enough time to get stuff done and especially if you you come back and you think and readjust every time you're not just throwing yourself at that move over and over and over again because then you'll end up in a repetitive cycle so every time she steps back and changes her beta a little bit she's going to get a little bit closer exactly and literally seeing her get closer and closer each time i think she almost touched it that time it is a pretty coordinated movement to throw out right at the beginning of the round although the fact that they competed earlier this afternoon makes it a little bit easier to come out and be ready for something like this the residual warm-up remains i for me i always felt like i couldn't warm up that much because i'm old oh this has a great name the bouldering root centers also have decided to start naming the boulders and had roots that are nick o'clubja came up with a great name for this specific one they like to call it track and field as the women are having to sprint across those volumes one minute remaining for a campbell here since this boulder doesn't have a lot of moves if she can stick that jump she should be able to at least get to the zone if not the top but she's really going to need to explode a little bit more off that volume it might be a good idea if she could try to get both feet on so she was exploding off of both legs instead of just the ones she is on the smaller side trying to build that momentum she's getting stuck on that middle volume there trying to do a side step move instead of the step through and that's what kyra did that sort of kept her momentum charging forward was the step through and i think as soon as campbell starts to try to do the side step that's what pulls her momentum you know upright her body posture goes from charging forward to standing straight up and that's what's pulling her off the ball looks like she's going to go ahead and let her time run out and prep for that next boulder behind the wall she'll get no points for that holder because of not getting to the zone remember points are only awarded when you hit the zone or a top otherwise you'll have a score of zero new scoring format this year at the 2021 usa national club national team trials we have aligned with ifsc scoring so you'll notice there are no 5 10 15 and 25 point hold markers on the wall it is only zone and top and those are the two important holes to grab there's no points for any other holds getting the top is the most important just as it is outside it's ascend and then the zone is the only other hole that matters kylie coleman waiting for her time to start on women's number one there are four boulders tonight with four minutes on each boulder and different from those earlier rounds the women are going to go behind the wall between each climb and move on after each problem is done as a group kylie got called off there because along with the scoring uh start positions have also aligned with ifsc and so it's a forced four-point start there's four pieces of tape on that could be the whole the wall and it's sort of a choose your own adventure there's no designated start hands or start feet it's just four start points and all four points need to be touching something that's touching those blue pieces of tape so here it's very straightforward two hands two feet uh sometimes the root setters like to try to make really funky starts where the tape could be you know starfish or like we saw in semifinals three points on one and one on the other and it could be like a high tow hook over the head you never know and it actually makes it a little harder during their preview time or if they're in a different round without a preview to figure out the start it can kind of zap some of your time if it's not super straightforward so it adds a whole nother element to the whole process of the round this is definitely a problem where going too many times a row especially wearing the mask might feel a little more intense because it's more of a cardio movement since you're actually running on the aptly named track and field boulder there's that side step again i think the step through is gonna be the way and when she swings her leg back like that on the start that's what's generating the momentum and then when you swing it forward it has to be a really powerful swing forward to really charge your momentum you have a long way to go and a lot of ground to cover running across those volumes and you really have to come at it aggressively to get to that jug exactly and being that that last volume is a little bit bigger in surface area i really think it'd be a good idea for them to try to jump off of two feet it's just gonna make them more explosive and they have enough time to bring that other foot in and it would give them way more power to get to that jug great example of the root setters finding out new ways to challenge the athletes with these run across movements even if you've seen them they're always a little different little slip there still a minute 20 to go plenty of time to make things happen and we've seen this a lot nice buzzer beaters especially on boulders that don't have too many moves where you can kind of rush at the end [Music] these run across boulders can be really frustrating because you know you know you know what you have to do and it's just a matter of executing and they are time consuming like every time you go need to rest and i did a few of these in the mod comp at the training center and you get you you know what you have to do to execute you're just not executing it so it can be really frustrating exactly i'm finding myself leaning every time she sets up to go i'm just like leaning all the way to the right trying to get her to build that momentum a little more that looks better way better very good one-handed we saw kyra go with a two-hand approach but kylie stuck it nicely with that wrap into that lateral dyno definitely enough time but she is gonna have to move a little bit quicker up at the top hopefully she uses that a rhett like we saw kyra use earlier don't think she saw it [Applause] but at least she she did get the zone so points on the board there for kylie collins putting her in second place currently nine tries to get to that zone really great execution here she went with the more of a wrap orientation with her hand on that jug making it easier to catch it one-handed didn't quite see how she could use the rat but she is another one of the younger competitors and though a seasoned youth athlete this is only her second year on the adult stage so with experience you start to notice more of those tricks and paying more attention to the wall and where a feature might be so i'm sure more of that that also comes with doing world cups you know world cups um so a lot of climbing outside is basically anything goes like you start and go to the top and inside we get so kind of boxed in with like arbitrary rules like only the blue holes or you can only use what's taped and you're moonboarding and you can't heal hook and all there's like all these rules that come into it and then you end up in a comp and you're like oh i can only use black holes and no heel hooking then you're like wait what no whatever it takes to get to the top you know and that's that's kind of how foreign competitors grow up competing and they're really good at seeing things in my experience that i wasn't as good at seeing and missing things like grabbing me a rat or using a corner or being able to like manipulate volumes like that exactly megan lynch just took her first attempt on the boulder trying to figure out exactly what movement she needs here not generating enough there but such a learned movement i'm sure she'll start to get the hang of it we saw her in 2020 in bouldering nationals finals that was her first adult bouldering nationals that she made and she ended up sixth there looking really great this week a little fumble there on the volume kind of got her chest too close to the wall setting up again trying to get a little more momentum take a breather you don't know you get tired doing these run and jump things because you're not you're not climbing you're not pulling exactly i think it is too sometimes difficult you start to overthink oh do i need to use all of the volumes am i putting my feet in the right place when really you just need to kind of think more about feeling what she just did and that was more successful than when she kind of rapid fired and was really paying attention to her feet before and now she just kind of let her body take over she definitely needs to take a little break again i think that would help she's kind of pushing it a bit [Music] see if she can put it together this time she knows what to do two minutes still plenty of time on the clock we saw kylie sort of nab it in the 11th hour there what you were saying earlier really is so true this kind of thing is so frustrating in your mind you're like i just gotta get back on the wall i could do it this time i know but you kind of just rush it when you kind of need to take that same approach as you do and any other kind of movement on a boulder exactly kind of take a step back rest yourself and then go instead of rapid firing it's kind of like one of these times i'll stick it and in reality like we've gone to world cups and you see running jumps like this and you'll see like a climber on the japanese team before they even get on the wall they mimic the move on the ground like they'll do the run across move on the ground as if they were doing it so then when they get on the wall to do it it doesn't feel like their first attempt because they already have that muscle memory in their quiver because they did it on the ground so it's you still have to take your time like be precise it's not just really like a throw yourself at it thing exactly and each time she's going she's taking the attempt and i'm not honestly quite sure which attempt she's on but i would guesstimate in like the 10s and 11 at this point so when she does get the zone that's a lot of attempts that you're adding to your overall score 30 seconds left see if she can make it happen at the last minute yeah she's standing too upright her posture needs to be like leaning forward in the direction she's going so she can really drive over the knee and keep that momentum heading to the right so close only 10 seconds left and it looks like she's gonna call it so no points on the board for megan lynch but really good effort and there's still three boulders to come she'll just have to keep it together in this round it's never over till it's over they actually to their advantage do know the boulders that are next so that's a different mindset than in the semifinals and the qualifiers when you know what's coming up you can think okay i know one of the boulders that i'm gonna get on next suits me better whereas in qualifiers you don't really in semifinals you don't know and you're just hoping that there's one that's your style if you're messing up on another that and in this format they get longer rest because there's only one athlete on the wall at a time the rest go back into iso and wait and you can be back there for up to four minutes times six is 24 minutes i told you earlier i was good at math you're still gonna get 24 24 minute rest you know which is far more beneficial than the five minutes you get sitting there between rounds they can basically fully recover exactly brook rabbit two taking a quick review of women's number one as she steps up for her first attempt she definitely took a look at that a rut yep she sees it another seasoned competitor also another one of our qualified olympic athletes oh okay for a second i thought she was going to try to static it but she props could that would be impressive yeah it might take a while we were talking earlier about them how she likes to stick her little toes in the t-nut holes of volumes and stuff she could totally tippy-top her way we should see if after the comp she wants to try good momentum a lot better on that attempt definitely close first few goes yeah especially for one of the shorter competitors yep she's really familiar with this kind of movement i feel like she's been training on moves like this since she was five so that's not true it's probably not eighty years old though i think eight would be accurate i think i remember brooke being like five or six at youth nationals fritz bitter once chris doesn't like kids fritz is alex's dog in case you don't know brooke is the only person that fritz has ever been in her entire life two minutes and 20 seconds left on the clock she's gotten closer each time so she's just really trying to hone in on that movement to get that momentum that was even closer than the previous previous attempt again saw something rad we're seeing that brooke is doing that the women before her haven't done yet is the arm momentum um the rest of the girls stayed matched and just swung the leg and brooke is completely opening up and like throwing her arm towards the hold as well and that you get twice as much momentum the more limbs like swinging two limbs to one you know exactly and as one of the shorter competitors she knows she needs to build momentum even stronger than some of the taller competitors and i was going to say before you brought up the arm motion is that two feet on the last volume is another way but the arm swinging is very beneficial as we just saw her easily stick the run across that time right in the bolt hole into that are knight oh peanut foot in the t-nut fully i'm telling you if this was gymnastics that would be called the rabbit two we can call it that it's the rabbit pick it up why not going for the finish here super smooth gonna set that heel or actually a toe nice match and a top for brook rabbit two cool to see both our olympians have talked so far because they are approaching this event um as a training in a practice they have already qualified for not only the olympics of course but really cool seeing this arm swing again to generate that momentum she also went more with a wrap on that jug to catch it one hand really nice control here good tension with her feet as she slowly and calmly went to that top hold and then secured it with that nice tow hook really great climbing from brook rabbit two so she got a top in five tries which puts her below kyra connie right now but a great start for the round awesome confidence going into the next four months leading up to the season this is the only chance that they will get to compete in the format of all three disciplines before the tokyo 2021 games in august natalia grossman stepping up onto the mat waiting for that go ahead to get started on women's number one she is the leader in this competition today i get a nice little smile there she smized you can see it in her eyes with all the masks wearing these days everyone's ready to be a model we've all learned how to smile right taking a quick second look before she gets going i would be really impressed if anyone can do this jump first try just because it's a tricky run across and we saw kyra do its second try earlier but i think it would be a really hard move to flash and as we've seen none of the women were able to do it but root setters are doing a great job here nice close-up on those volumes the texture's pretty nice so it's not too crazy to have to run across but if you hit in a wrong position sometimes you do slip and we've seen a few of the women and natalia just kind of did that as well wiping off her shoes a lot on the line here for most of our finalists as they are trying to earn a spot on our 2021 national team and that would allow them to compete in the world cups that are coming up this summer um the first one is in switzerland april 16th and 17th one of one of my favorite events honestly i i actually agree that is it's funny that i was wondering if you would say that because that is one of my favorites too it's a great town it's a small little town yeah it's a great crowd great crowd great food there's a cheese there's a cheese toast you can buy while you're there at the venue there was a really cool american who won a bouldering world cup in switzerland back in 2010 i don't know if you remember who that was oh was her name possibly alex johnson it might have been very nice stick there from natalia grossman just needs to make sure her swing is in the right direction before she drops over to that zone nicely done ouch oh i thought she hit herself but it looks like she's just well maybe she did it's kind of an aggressive move dropping like any kind of drop down move whether it's under your feet or on your like a dino on your shoulders or yeah i couldn't tell if she like kind of hit her knee weirdly or if she was just wiping off her shoe hopefully the ladder i yeah i agree she's looking good here using that a rhett and a knife she may be seen in the rabbit the other rabbit two a nice example of the newly dubbed rabbit move they train together it really is a useful tool i can never get my toes on those things i've tried brooks like just put your toe in the bowl and i'm like i can't new shoes is definitely the way to go one hand on the finish needs to secure her body position awesome very nice job another top for natalia grossman see where she ends up based off of her tries remember with the scoring system that tops attempts or sorry top zones attempts to tops and attempts to zones really nice form there on that dino she did kind of cut it close with that minute left but great way for her to start the round i'm sure she feels confident going into the next few boulders and again the women have seen what they have coming up so it's very a little less cardio a little interesting so brooke and natalia both did that in five tries so that puts brook in third place currently because she came in in a lower rank from natalya so natalia is in second at the moment and kyra's in first as we move into women's number two a very interesting boulder which i think this looks awesome it it's really cool and i i know the root center is intended there to be a hand jam so i'm very curious if the women will use it or not i'm a pincher so my first thought was i'm gonna pinch it i'm a crimper i'm not gonna use the hand jam but i first thought it was to crimp it my i really hope they do use a hand jam because that's always cool to see inside guarantee you not no way [Laughter] this is a pretty straightforward power boulder in my opinion kyra's gonna eat this for breakfast definitely she's having her wheaties right now yeah one of there is a jib up like a hole up on the top left and i keep starting a sentence one of if not the strongest female boulders in america right now um her finger strength is right in this world dab one hand in that top position awesome wow nice splash there for tyra condi by the way this boulder has been dubbed the power wrangle and i think that's pretty appropriate that was all power in that attempt she is relieved to have just splashed that boulder this is definitely a style that kyra excels at as for shirts was saying she is one of the strongest and most powerful boulders in the us right now and this is something that she knows she can do and she came into it with complete confidence and was able to execute and only getting stronger like we were training together last 2019 when we were trying to qualify for the olympics and neither of us could do a one arm and now she's like ripping weighted one arms i'm still doing the dangle but it's been really cool to see her progression and what's awesome i know we're only 50 done but kyra has never won either a bouldering i mean this is the first time we're doing the team trials event but kyra's never won a bowling national and so i know that that's something that she really wants to do yeah it would be really big for her to make that happen campbell serenopolis stepping up waiting for the go ahead to get on women's number two taking another quick look at it really nice use of the wall there to get into that starting position it really can be confusing switching to the other scoring system and we used to have a rule in usa climbing about not being able to touch the wall so it's nice to see that the athletes are familiarizing themselves with that new scoring system and in the new format aligning with ifsc you can use the wall doesn't really count as a hole so you can use the wall to establish and get on and it doesn't count as an attempt which is cool she needs to generate a little bit more to get into that crimp i also think she kind of hit it a little high so she can aim a bit better it is a really biting crimp so all these women in this vinyl have very strong fingers so if they can get their fingers in the right spot they shouldn't have any issues holding on and getting that zone here are the current standings after women's number one with kyra conde in first with one top in two tries oh actually she's in two tops now but we're not so this is just after number one the full result so sorry results after number one got a little tongue tied there whoops it's been a lot of talking today it's honestly with the mask too i'm not gonna lie i know the athletes aren't complaining about the masks but i swear it's it's making me jumbled a bit awesome oh that's the right idea for sure i think knowing with campbell being a shorter climber knowing that her toe probably won't stay in that slot sort of being able to absorb the swing a little bit and expecting the toe to come out if she had a little more bend in her arm she might be able to hold that swing just just sort of like being aware that that momentum will pull you out with a little more bend in the arm it should be able to absorb that momentum a little bit she also might want to just commit to bringing that left hand over into the volume as well just to because if she's gonna cut she might as well have two hands on versus one right her i guess two hands up by her instead of one lower getting that toe nicely jammed in there i think she's also hitting it a little low she's kind of not getting the best part of the hold it's making it a little harder but maybe she just jumped into it a little more because like she said it's gonna cut right she's not gonna be able to keep it on because she is 5-1 authority you control the boulder the boulder doesn't control you exactly you see you're kind of getting extended and not quite hitting the right part of that hold and then for toe coming off right after 40 seconds left see if she can adjust here that looked a little better she had more momentum but i do still think she's trying to keep her foot on which isn't a bad idea generally it's just for this specific move it would be better for her to commit to a cut so she's gonna end up with another zero on boulder number two but still two more boulders to go and ones that i think would actually suit her a bit better than these first two as you see we just have some coaches and volunteers root setters that is all we have in the crowd everyone's working you want to be here you got to work kylie coleman getting ready to get on women's number two now she has a very large wingspan which i'm personally jealous of so we're she shouldn't have an issue getting to this zone hold nice tap to establish on that four point start oh her foot just kind of slipped out of the jam prematurely kind of saw kyra and campbell wedge it in there a little bit and i think that helps with the initial move over to the zone hole you get kind of a tow hook catch before it starts to slide out and i think you need that a little bit i definitely agree but that's a pretty easy adjustment to make and for sure i think she'll probably make that adjustment plenty of time still she does have a zone already for women's number one so there's porn points on the board for her but definitely want to get points on each boulder right they are battling it out four spots on the us team it's the top three ranked women here tonight not including our olympians cairo and brooke so regardless of how they place they're already eligible for all the world cups including obviously the olympics and whoever best three outside of them will be our 2021 national team and that gives you eligibility to go to all the world cups switzerland we talked about already but there are two back-to-back world cups in salt lake city which for a lot of these athletes competing here or a couple of them they haven't done an adult world cup and to do one in the us is always a really big deal so there's really a lot online especially for those younger competitors wanting to get that experience in early tons of experience and also such a great show um the first one's may 21st and 22nd and that's bouldering only and then the following weekend may 28th through 30th memorial day weekend will be bouldering and speed and honestly i'm not gonna lie if you've never watched a speed world cup it is insane even if you want you can't blink because if you do it'll be that fast it is it's actually wild to watch people who are very good at speed speed climb it's a totally different sport yeah it's like i mean obviously right i think it's so exciting there were a few um bouldering speed combo world cups that we did in the circuit um 2019 and it's impossible not to get into it watching it like it's head to head and some of them are so neck and neck and you'd think that it's just it's running track you know it's repetitive it's the same thing but it's not like racing is so exciting and super cool to watch and that's sort of like what speed brings just to climbing for spectators especially spectators who aren't familiar with climbing as much i mean speed's as straightforward as it gets who got to the top fastest exactly and in an outdoor venue i think it'll be even cooler too right kylie's still struggling to get to this zone that actually could work for her oh doesn't want to try it again gonna save her energy again having seen the bowlers previously that's a decision you can make confidently and she does already have that zone score from that first boulder which will give her a little more room to relax going into the next holder megan lynch walking up to women's number two she did not get any points on women's number one so she's going to really want to make something happen here now i also think that this is a boulder that she should excel at it's more her style than that coordination boulder right and she's shown sort of dominating strength throughout the rounds leading her into finals tonight and so yeah she has a lot of finger strength and she's quite powerful so as long as she climbs smart here i think that she should make it happen pretty quickly and we saw her make finals last year at the 2021 bouldering nationals and that was great but she showed up this weekend i think a totally different climber like she's confident she's powerful and it's you can see it in her movement like she's always been strong but she's she really showed up this weekend with an attitude that was like i belong here i deserve to be here and i'm doing world cups and that was that's been really cool to see it's been awesome i actually had a second to chat with her about that and she said that in this past year and with the pandemic she's just worked a lot on remembering that she loves climbing and it's just about her love of climbing and not so much about the competition itself and that's helped her to be able to excel more in competitions to just remember that at the end of the day she loves climbing and she wants to be here and have fun and we've seen that work for her really well at this competition for sure just needs to get into this locked hole she's kind of not pulling in enough she's her hips are a little far out moving into that blocked hold once you get the hole it's pretty good but if you don't get deep enough in it you can't do much with it so she needs to really pull those hips in and explode through the biceps which we know she can do we saw her do it earlier in the semi-final round on that volume boulder with right that was all biceps right so she's got to put it together quick little look here you see she hits pretty shallow she's also over shooting yeah so if she could just be a little more precise there see if she can make it happen this time to quote thailand my favorite dosage segment it's like this envelope slot oh my gosh that's amazing i almost feel like she should maybe brush the hold too a little quick close-up of the hole that she's trying to go to you see she keeps kind of missing the middle part and also overshooting it and hitting that blocker so it throws off her momentum and then she can't get the right part of the hold and it is a dynamic movement it's not like you can go to it super static so you do kind of have to just accurately dead point into that hold smart that she's smearing on the wall you know kind of gearing up for that move instead of trying to keep her toes on that like small little sloppy foothold i think she's a little bit of a taller athlete and so for her to get into that red undercoating clip using you know the biggest foothold on the wall which is the wall it's pretty smart i like that she's resting now but i feel like she should have time to rest out a little bit more earlier on because this is a very powerful boulder and i think she kind of zapped her energy a little bit too early but all she really needs to do is get to the zone at this point to put some points on the board i feel like it's stressful going into the third boulder without any points on the board for sure but i don't think she's going to be able to make it happen unfortunately go ahead and go back to behind the wall and prep for that next boulder mentally that's the biggest thing you have to let go of each boulder after you've climbed on it because you can't go back what's happened has happened and if you tarp on it it's not going to get you through the next couple of boulders so that's a big mental component to just let things go you could feel like it's already over but this round is 50 percent over and she could come out and flash the last two boulders and no one else could get off the ground and then she would win it's exactly never over he just don't really seen that 100 brick rabbit two negative point five four spin nice not a young albatross here this sucks yeah it really i mean that's the worst one at least ever usually if you're a negative you're at least like five three five four t-rex arms yeah just goes to show you how talented she is makes anything work i mean that i'm always like okay brook can reach that i have no excuses right negative 0.5 getting ready to get on the boulder for her first attempt definitely a boulder that she should like set up for this dynamic movement nicely done really smart to dead point at the lower part of the hole because she's smaller that way she didn't get too spanned yeah and what she did that was different from megan there was she had a straight right arm and basically used it as a lever to end with her legs to push herself up to the left hand blocked hold instead of like bending at the bicep and trying to power her way through it her right arm was straight and she levered up to it yeah a really good use of that movement and just like the body positioning using it to your advantage so that you're you're not like working for it as much the quads are bigger than the biceps i don't care who you are that's true maybe not me actually yeah maybe not you it looks like she kind of did the same sort of thing that campbell did earlier where she's really trying to keep her foot on where i think maybe for her as well it might be beneficial to just kind of jump into it more and she's strong enough too she can let it rip and hold that it did kind of hurt a little bit watching her come off that cheetah hold those things hurt so bad when you dry fire off of them losing skin for sure and it's day two out of out of too many i don't know how many rounds she's doing nine or something lots of rounds six seven eight depends on how far she goes in speed because it's head to head very true like i said many rounds really good use of her rest time here that's one thing that i think you'll see a lot in the competitors that have been doing this for a longer time they really are specific about how much time they rest and intentional about conserving energy let's see if she can power up into this a little bit better so she's going to get a little dropping that was closer for sure it's interesting that we haven't seen any of them match on that left hand yet i don't know if the foot isn't good enough but really nice drop knee setup and got her hand on the hold but her momentum was coming out too much instead of to the left if she can move it to the left more i think she could come into that volume with her left hand and make it work use the swing to her advantage a little bit exactly oh oh yes now we've got brookie beta going i love it toe jam upside down i did a moon board session with her in natalya the other day and they were doing this junk the entire time and i was like this i can't do this and they're like just do those put your feet up over your head and do a tow hook and i was like no i can't this is like tina standard that was very exciting i hope she has enough time to get back there and get into the zone that would work too to get her just to the zone you know yeah and with already having a top i mean his own would be okay here come on girl yo into the zone nicely with that heel hook not to have enough time to finish unfortunately but she got his own yeah that was definitely frustrating yeah i mean her creative beta though was so exciting though i wish she had thought about that heel hook a little bit sooner because it that was so easy for her with that heel right into it really casual if she would have figured that out sooner oh she would have definitely walked away with the top but a zone is still good and again one of the athletes who this is more of a training competition versus trying to make the team because she's already qualified for all the world cups being one of the olympic qualified athletes so really good work there you know one thing about that in general was she tried something new every try right and that's something that's really hard for people to do tunnel vision is a serious thing so if nothing else that's another good moment of making good decisions on a turkey boulder right and every time she did something different it still played to a different one of her strengths and that's something that you see a seasoned competitive competitor doing and also someone trying to prepare for the olympics that was a great learning experience 100 you got to be ready for anything and be as creative as possible and almost every sequence that she tried worked i know it was so close to working every time and she made that look so easy when it actually did work yeah and with that zone it just moved her up into second place anyway so it's in a good spot still natalya getting ready to get on women's number two with her first attempt i'll be interested to see if she does a heel hook just right out the gate actually low heel yeah i feel like i i had a feeling that was gonna happen nice little toe hook there to suck her in really good control of the swing kept pulling up and bending her arms to absorb that momentum because when you do a swing like that and your arms are straight it puts all that momentum and that weight on your fingertips and that's a lot for your fingers no matter how strong your fingers are that's a lot for your fingers to hold and so as soon as you bend your arms it puts that momentum absorption into your biceps and your shoulders so it's a super smart technique wedging her way into this last section of the boulder kind of got stuck in that heel for a second but one hand on the finish just needs two and another flash frame natalia grossman i would expect nothing less really nicely done by natalia grossman just easily getting into this release move like alex said really pulling up into the biceps to control that swing and then quickly move into that final section and making it look easy with another top awesome angle from the left there thanks guys that's true very nice with that that moves her up into second place tyra kennedy's still ahead by attempts and with that we are already moving into that third boulder wow this is flying by here's a quick look at women's number three another slab climb i guess our first boulder wasn't so much a lot more vertical but here we have a nice slab with lots of volumes lots of dual textured holds the women are gonna have to trust their feet a lot though they have had to in the previous rounds this week so they should be used to it this is a boulder that i sequenced initially and came out and had the initial thought that was ooh i wouldn't like this and then and you can't catch yourself having like having thoughts like that because that gets you walk out and you're like oh this doesn't look like my style at all and then all of a sudden you're approaching the boulder with a negative perspective and that puts you in a headspace that does not set you up for success and then i here are our current standings after women's number two kyra connie in first natalya grossman in second brook rabbit two third kylie cullen fourth megan lynch fifth and campbell serenopolis in that sixth place spot right now kyra going for another attempt on this slab boulder nice toe hook there kind of fell out of it with a little bit of a barn door but something she can fix like i said earlier all of these screw-ons that are on those volumes are dual textured so they have a nice textured side or a grippy side and then a slippery side which is going to make it pretty tricky for the women to stand on those holds tow hook worked that time see if she can make her way up into the zone nicely into that zone hold trying to place her foot on that textured spot on that foothold avoiding the slippery part of it this is actually the slowest i've ever seen kyra move yeah and this it's an interesting change of pace from the first two boulders where the one you had to come out literally swinging and charging and then the second one was another like sort of powerful dynamic boulder and so they're gonna throw this slab boulder at you boulder three and really have to make you like slow your uh heart rate down and slow your pace down moving those hips over getting set up nicely to get to the top just needs to make her way over oh i'm gonna lose it at the last second plenty of time to get back up there and honestly from the semi-final round to this round she rushed the tops a lot so it was really nice to see her take a different approach and go a little bit slower so we've got a guest in the booth our lead champion tonight mr sean bailey welcome what's up how's it going great how are you that's a radio voice if i've ever heard one boom [Laughter] what do you think of the boulders so far for the women um i haven't seen too much but they look cool they look hard so i think it gives everyone an opportunity to try hard and hopefully find some success okay we're getting back up into that zone hold this is something that she's really actively been working on in the training center lately if you've been watching any of her videos or stories um slowing down slab trusting her feet walking across volumes and even these sort of like pressy mantle finishes this is something that she knows going into august the tokyo 21 games she's gonna have to get good at everything all around and this is something that she's been actively improving looks like she's gonna not go for another attempt but honestly from the earlier rounds to now that was a really good effort on the slab boulder you just couldn't find that no it's okay she couldn't find that right body position though she was too left with her hips she just needed to open her hips up a little bit to actually get over to the top but and really trust that blue left foot yeah i almost felt like her foot was fighting it a little bit yeah what do you think sean i mean that seems like the the hardest folder to to do in a comp round in a way it's not the hardest physically maybe but mentally and standing on those feet and yeah those smears look bad so they do look bad and i i don't know i personally think that maybe your right foot there could be good right foot on the blue yeah why not yeah try it step through and then go for like swing the left flag yeah or left foot into like a flag or or if you're left actually if you have your left foot there maybe just facing your hips the other direction and maybe even throwing an inside flag to stop your momentum when you hit the top you've been spending a lot of time in the training center sean do you think the practice there has prepared you for this round and this event yeah i mean as much as you can anywhere in the states um we've been climbing on a lot of comp style boulders and it's been helping for sure and we've been doing a bunch of mock rounds so we get some funky stuff and yeah it's been good i've been there last like two months or so so i'm sticking to plastic for a minute almost able to catch that tow hook for campbell serenopolis she doesn't have a score currently hasn't been able to hit any of the zones yet but plenty of time left here to make it happen it's been interesting to see them do this first move dynamic um i sequenced static which is funny for me because i have like the weakest legs on earth but i've been mountain biking and hiking a lot lately so laughs it's funny because i actually didn't see the root setters try the bottom of this boulder they were just trying the top when i got here earlier so i also sequenced it static and that's also weird because i'm dynamic when i climb so that doesn't really make sense interesting i walked up there it looked like maybe it could go either way like static with a press yeah maybe yeah i see that too kind of yeah because they're not really using that hold currently when they are i mean i guess they use it later but it is good enough to press on like you just rock up into it yeah for sure there's so much fast stuff these days though that sometimes it's actually harder to find the the static stuff yeah and you get a little bit of tunnel vision when it comes to trying to be dynamic or coordinated and you forget that sometimes you have to slow down for sure especially when you got a 15 foot sideways dino in the first boulder you're like we're going for it motors are running we're jumping we're running it's all it's all happening no one's slowing down but so it's been a year since you've competed and now we're back um things are definitely different and how has it been sort of as an athlete during covid training and now competing and coming back into the first clomp in over a year what's it been like hmm um yeah i mean it's been interesting for sure um i was actually pretty glad to get a little break i think i needed it um i just spent a long time climbing outside and even the last like two three months ago i was kind of just chasing weather and trying outside projects and stuff but um yeah i don't know it's cool to be back i i didn't realize how much i'd miss it probably and like how fast i'd miss it so it's cool to who to get back in the scene even though it's you know it's obviously like way different now but at least we got some sort of comp so that's cool did you feel like there is a big difference between a mop comp and this competition like did you think that you were going to come into this and feel similar to the mock comp and then when you got here was it different or for me it's super different for sure um yeah i it takes a lot out of me to do comps and you know you put a lot into it and um mock comps are great for training but you can't really replicate the real thing and the feeling and you know all the expectations and what you're trying to accomplish so yeah this is totally different for sure it's historically been hard for me to get into that mindset at mock comps no matter how much you try i mean i don't even know honestly no honestly because i don't know you're just like climbing with your homies and it's like i'm not necessarily trying to compete with them all the time so i don't i don't want to get into that that mode and i feel like those moments of being in that zone of complete focus that you get in a world cup final those moments are like for me so fleeting and so rare that i almost don't want to waste them and i'm not complex it's hard for me to get into that mentality and i feel the exact same way honestly i i try to not get into it because i know i know that i know that i only have like so many there's just so much energy to like do something like that that i'm trying to save it up for the stuff that really matters for sure kylie cullen is just walking this boulder which is no surprise that she is quite a talented slab climber she got right into that tow hook at the beginning no problem already into the zone see if she can figure out a better body position to get over to that top hold this last move looks crazy sketchy to me though just wait till women's number four right dude i know should we go spot we're gonna need to move the lights and the lift and the chairs so we might need to move i don't know she's got one hand on the top more secure than kyra did and look two hands and after kylie coleman that's a flash yep really nicely done by another one of our younger competitors you could say dark horse but she won an event in 2019 that puccio was at i was at chloe costco i was at and she kind of housed all of us crazy exactly you can't count the young guns out no way they're they might not be as experienced but they're very talented they come with hunger and they have nothing to lose right for sure yeah it's the easiest time to be a competitor best of both worlds so far we've seen a top on every boulder so again the root setters are doing a really good job of making sure the boulders get topped but not by too many people and not by too few people wait i missed it what's the breakdown right now who's done what oh so we have this right here actually if you want to check it out no that's cool so we've got all three boulders topped so far with a couple athletes doing the first two and now kylie coleman doing the third megan lynch was in the right position looks like she's kind of bobbled out of it there the last second i missed her height but it can be kind of hard we were talking about the shin decks earlier fitting into these positions especially like knee bars like we saw on the men's routes and the toe hooks like here on the girls route like if you have a a longer shin sometimes getting into a knee bar can be hard or if you're like me on center direct and bishop that climb is 8b because you just you have to fit in this box and sometimes the box it doesn't cater to your body shape and that could be you're too tall you're too short you're two i don't know 100 she's five five so i think she should be fine i mean kylie's 5'4 but she should be able to get into it have you ever heard me lock before no no because i just opened up this book the other day and it said knee lock and i didn't know if it was a whole new thing or like similar to knee bars or like what kind of like a climbing book it's like how to climb how to climb 101. pretty good use your knee lock i don't remember if it's the how to gym climb or the how to climb but it was one of them sean bailey world cup athlete reading how to climb we're all learning every day we can never stop learning i i'm glad you're getting your literature in well-read well read i feel like megan's getting a little bit in her head here she was in the right position on that very first attempt but i feel like she isn't trusting herself as much at this moment and she again it's interesting because qualifier semifinals we haven't seen her rush like this and i think she's getting a little stressed and rushing again and she needs to calm down like she was earlier because it was working for her yeah dominant in the first two rounds and this is the round where there's really nothing to lose it's the cherry on top well actually that's not true there is a national team spot to be fighting for but it's still yeah there's no other round to qualify for so it should the jitters should be gone you know exactly and and you know when you're more relaxed that you can perform better but tough the toughest round to keep it together though i wonder how did you feel a little different having no crowd here did the final feel less intense to you i don't know it honestly just feels kind of awkward to me in a way like i know you know of course it's got to be like this but you're so used to the noise and yeah i feel like you can really feel the energy so when it's a little lower it's maybe less stressful for some but it feels different so for me it's almost like i'm a little thrown if anything i i i feel the same way it's i'm a performer climbing and competing yeah climbing and competing is i don't know i get i hear the crowd and it puts me sort of more in the zone and so this event would be really it wouldn't almost wouldn't feel real or wouldn't feel serious to me like it would feel like a mock conference exactly that's why i asked that question earlier because i almost feel like it could feel that way without having a crowd here it could feel so similar to a mock com and i'm with you guys like i i have a hard time fully getting into it i it's like i don't want to get into a modcom but at the same time i'm terrified right can i quit and i feed on that and that's sort of what helps me engage that like blackout honed in focus where you you like pull on the wall and then you forget you don't remember anything you come to like on the finish and you're just like what happened someone's like what beta did you use and you're like i have no idea and that i the crowd really helps me sort of get into that mode yeah i can do something else for sure unfortunately megan lynch walked away with another no zone boulder no top boulder so she's still at a score of zero brook grab a two brush in hand ready ready to go brush those slab holds very smart move well don't you guys always brush the slab holes i feel like that's my i brush all the holes yeah you can't brush all the holds for sure it's the most important thing want it clean so often did she i don't know that one must have broke oh yeah you can see it right there maybe are you sure they give you little brushes as well new rule at this event here you can't use your own brush yes well yes it's a new rule to the us but it's always been the ifsc rule your personal brush is not allowed which i've noticed most of the women haven't even brought a brush out which i think it's really smart so they don't right you don't accidentally use it that would be so easy i put superglue on mine just for friction yeah totally that's cool look we're seeing a static approach here yay i broke grab a two let's see if she can make that work nicely into that hold and coming back down i've changed my mind i think it's dynamic i think she might have changed her mind too oh no really sticking to this more static direction i do think on this next attempt she's gonna go more dynamic i like that idea though i do too did you see her creativity on number two you missed it it's all good you can go back and watch the live stream get us more views on usa climbing slash youtube another uh reason for like when i brush it's one to take chalk off the holes and then two the brush kind of feels like an extension of your hands and so when you're like full like fondling the brush around on the holds you can kind of tell like where the good part is or where the edges are or how good the hold is so i'm just being told that one of the comments on the youtube is that people would like shawn to do a podcast and title it climbing with the homies what do you think you up for it where is that comment can i see that i i don't have it pulled up here but if you do it we would love to be your guest it's food for thought if you want to make some room for your climbing slash commentating homies let us know i'll consider it for sure you guys will be on if i do definitely awesome let's see if brooke can figure out that tow hook i'm honestly there she goes i was gonna say brook rabbit two is someone who loves to do a tow hook so i'm actually surprised that wasn't her first decision there but did a great job of sticking with it and making sure she kept trying different things she's doing really good at this competition specifically at trying different things and making them work nicely into the zone so it's a high zone it really is it's actually probably one of the highest zones we've seen thus far and was making like the first move such a low percentage like get on the wall start it is surprising that they put it so high but they know what they're doing usually for the most part right no they do a great job brooke trying to set up to get over to the top uh the top of that hold is dual text so it's it's like a dual text grippy dual text sandwich and the way that they've angled at the top of it is dual text i honestly think she does have enough time if she gets on the wall right now like off of the start really nice not a girl time to motor just because i feel like she is one of the athletes who can confidently move through the slab quickly like quicker just jump i'm just kidding could you imagine though what if she jumped to the top and held it that would have been insane she took a little bit too long to figure out that beginning section of the boulder but really good stick-to-itiveness in trying to figure out how to get to that zone really bummed that she had that slip at the top i it's always hard to watch somebody just like slip when you know that they had it right but it happens and again another competitor who is at this competition and it's more of a training for the olympics rather than worrying about making the team or you know being 100 world cup ready right now because she has a different goal in mind at the moment she's on a different training block different training schedule and and she's using her time and experience here really wisely by trying different things and figuring out what works it doesn't matter what place she gets here so if she can try seven different sequences yeah that's learning for her like you generally don't have that luxury right like now is the time well maybe this will work this is out of this world and then she's like whoa it did put that in the middle it's exciting it's honestly really exciting for us to see how creative she can be and seeing different movements it's always fun was that a legit start i don't think so dang been there savage yeah i remember that world cup in china when tamo didn't start right well like one of the most decorated world cup he just started his run and jump put three on didn't even tap his foot and they were like come on no and he would have won and beautiful he basically flashed it they called him off and so devastating when that happens literally happens to the the best of the way it can happen to anyone she's moving so quickly through this boulder already on the zone getting ready to set up to get to that final hold let's see what approach she takes she's really dropping her heels and i think it's helping on that volume 100 she has a really nice wingspan too she's like a plus three i believe really yeah nicely in to that finishing hold and another top for natalia grossman super quick if you blinked you might have missed it it would have been a flash i think aside yeah she hadn't been called off that's hopefully that doesn't come back and that and that's something that going forward she'll have to make sure to remember here she goes to start the climb and doesn't remember to tap her foot down here and just goes and steps up and that is not a legal four-point start but she was able to fix it later and that cost her her flash but she still was able to get a top at the end of the day and she's again with three tops going into the fourth boulder see if she can make the fourth boulder happen today she's really been incredible lately it's been really cool to watch her journey over the last year and a half two years because she really just like flipped a switch and he's become unstoppable and you've trained with her quite a bit at the training center sean how how has it been for you i mean she's strong yeah she's super strong she's uh you know she's climbed with the best of them and i'd frequently see her do stuff that i you know didn't didn't necessarily know she would and it's always impressive every time so it's cool to watch it's cool to be around it's awesome i love that you guys are all training at the training center i think it's it's cool that there's so much group training going on and i think it's really good for the us team i think it'll make everyone stronger i mean we've always looked at the other countries and seen how solidified they were as a team and it's just so cool to see that happening now for the us and especially at this time with the olympics coming up we're gonna be or not we i'm not on it anymore but you all will be ready for everything coming up it's great and coveted times too that we actually have a place we can go and you know we know they'll be open it's a tough time to climb right now so that it is kyra connie getting ready to get on women's number four you just saw her brush that zone hold really quickly remember that with this scoring system you only get points for the zone and the top and with the with the zone you have to show usage you can't just touch it you have to actually use the zone in order to get credit for it kyra trying to find that tow hook gets on it it's a little tricky to find it actually she had him yeah she also i think she went too low i think if she had tried to get her foot more in the middle it wouldn't have been so far but this is a cool bowler yeah this was my favorite one that i sequenced i agree the end remember if he gave us the name for this one this sequence looks hard yeah that edge is flat but definitely not income oh i remember we came up with this one it's called figure it out because there's a figure four on it kyra's kind of fighting to the death here on this that was like a move that other competitors could have been like oh that's hard and sort of like so then pull the shoot but last move is going to be pretty intense here we go quite the jump oh nice nicely done by kyra conde and she's extremely happy with that and we had a nice spotter down there just in case she flew off the top we want to keep the athletes safe here you know after that semi-final round it is really nice to see kyra really come out here and show everybody how good she is at rock climbing or plastic climbing as you have it and just dominating this round and for her it's just a huge conference booster for her she can get her in her head a lot and this is this is huge to basically solidify that her training is paying off that's gotta feel really good cairo will also be competing in bouldering and speed climbing this week so this is only the beginning of her competition this is the standings going into the boulder number four but this doesn't include kyrah's current score we'll have to wait and see if that top moves her up above natalia grossman but really nice climbing from kyra connie we really only saw her struggle a little in the bowler 3. the end of boulder 3 because she really turned it on on those overhanging climbs and even the run across she got that done within a couple of tries so really nice climbing there from kyra tonight campbell serenopolis having her first look at women's number four we'll see if she does the figure four approach i honestly didn't see if kyra did she moved so she basically did like a one arm i figured she would i i didn't think she actually would do the figure four because she doesn't need to actually she grabbed her wrist and did like the one arm that way and campbell just did like the on top yeah i actually was thinking about that too because that pocket for the right hand started pretty deep sinker yeah so a lot of the women might i mean it'll be interesting to see if anyone actually does the figure four i bet we'll get one yeah we have to right odds are we got it campbell did a nice job getting to the middle of that block so that she didn't have to search for the tow hook as long a little bit twisted there though not including our olympians and natalya this world cup team going into the season is pretty fresh um there are a few athletes in finals who i don't believe have ever done a world cup and so we'll have some veterans hopefully to lead the charge and then some green world cup athletes this this season if we do yeah i think both kylie both kylie and campbell have only done youth world cups so this would be their first chance at adult world cups pretty pretty impressive though to go straight from youth into the adult scene and quickly get in the finals i remember margot hayes did that at bouldering nationals her first bouldering nationals i think it was our first it might have been her second but early on one of the athletes who started progressing in the adult comps quickly and i mean as most people know she's done a lot of amazing things since then so there's something to that for sure definitely yeah it's cool to see the new talent for sure campbell trying to figure out how to get around to that little screw-on on that block hold nicely done that time didn't get all twisted up it's kind of a new take on a classic foot first move here like we've seen feet first before but it's a little every time it's a little different this is kind of cool oh just barely missing that zone hold and she really needs a zone because she has yet to get one so to walk away with his own at the end of the round i mean that's always nice right and on a good note you know 100 i remember one world cup i was in semis and it was the first time i qualified in semis really high then i climbed and touched every bone or every zone and didn't get credit for one of them it was the saddest saddest day ever after a great day the day before i qualified in like third on my side world cup semis are so savages they are so hard there were a few we saw last summer last summer didn't last summer didn't happen 2019 summer where it was like two zones to get you into finals seriously gnarly world cup semis and it always sucks to walk away from around after like a total beat down so ending on a zone here for campbell for her would really be cool for this round because in my experience walking away on a high note is awesome and she definitely has enough time to get there and she's capable of getting to the zone and there she goes she gets the zone so points on the board for campbell serenopolis a really great cool entree into adult bouldering finals i'm expecting to see some great things from her in the future nice little recap of campbell getting to that zone hold she really had to fight to stay on her foot kind of slipped at the last second and it's a good thing she was able to didn't really have enough time to finish the boulder but great effort out there and a great way of sticking to it and not getting bogged down by the previous boulders really able to let go of each boulder that she was on before and keep fighting kylie cullen getting ready plus six wingspan no way that is crazy i know i'm so jealous what do you got i have a plus one i'm five four barely okay it could be worse than that i could have a minus it could be another one right negative point five i can't complain i'm just being old and bitter plus three here it's not bad it could be better [Laughter] this start is actually pretty funny it's like a frog tap [Laughter] it is interesting i've done yeah but still no figure four yet gotta get more to the center to find that toe hook i don't feel like as bowlers sequencing roots like this like in your mind you're like oh it could be a figure four and then you're like no if i do that it's just cheesy exactly or what if it's not the sequence then i look dumb but at the end of the day it's whatever works totally here's what you look like alex thinks that a knee is dabbing i i strongly disagree i could go either way [Music] kylie looking really good here getting ready to set up for that jump does it really nicely and again you saw her pull up at the end to really control the swing i am pretty sure that that was her first attempt i i believe it was i didn't see her fall before that flash there for kylie cullen it has been confirmed and really nicely pulling into that jug and you can tell she's smiling even though she's got a mask on really nice climbing from her tonight her first adult final and she gets bumped up to third currently so she's in a great spot to be eligible for that team spot and then you know get in on some of those world cups this season yeah two flashes too really big yeah she's climbed well all weekend so it's cool to see the consistency too you know it's it's always interesting whether you see people like place high low high or low high low and then consistency i think is really important in these events and being consistent is so hard especially you go into world cups and it's super consis it's really hard to be consistent you could be in finals one weekend and the very next weekend you get 30th place and we see that happen all the time and so it's really cool seeing athletes who can like carry that consistency through three rounds 100 megan lynch just waiting for that go-ahead for her time to start remember there's a four-minute clock she is really gonna be looking to get the zone here and as well as a top struggled a bit in this round but like we've said many times it's just not over until it's over so see if she can make something happen here the match over again [Music] so interesting no figure four yet needs to kick her foot up into the middle looks a little bit tired see the figure four would help with that because that would eliminate some of that swinging so when she needs to kick her foot to the in like the single arm campus yeah see if she figures it out it's kind of a draining opening sequence it definitely is like a pocket campus and then like a full front lever to get your feet up lots of pockets this week in general from the men's roots to the boulders for the women like i haven't seen this many pockets in a while we've already seen three manas it's crazy yeah i'm into it though it's cool no it's awesome yeah keeping it really exciting to quote thai landman again from my favorite dosage segment oh hep monos but that feels good to me i love that you're also doing the british accent of course gotta say on the fringe five i wonder if ty is watching he's in med school he's probably really busy busy studying but i like that she put her chalk pot far away from the wall which makes her have to walk back to it and maybe take a second to rest yeah look at the boulder from another perspective two minutes is still plenty of time to make a top happen here might even like wind down the clock to rest and then give her one good go you know exactly and even if she gets a zone that would move her up into well actually it depends on her attempts at this point which i have not been keeping track of how many attempts do you guys like to give in a four-minute round three three nice one i like to flash well well okay yeah i mean that's that's ideal but we're talking hard boilers yeah i would say three unless it's like a risk move or a run and jump or something that's like getting on getting on the boulder like is tricky then four four good three or four good goes because then you get ample rest in between definitely nicely into that toe hook needs to just keep it together here really glad that she was able to figure out that figure for it saved her so much energy getting in to that overhanging section needs to get to that zone [Music] oh just misses it i do think she has enough time to go but she's starting to look really fatigued three rounds of competing is a lot of climbing even though it doesn't necessarily look like so much i think it looks like a lot i guess i don't know i'm kind of out of touch i feel like that's not really a proper figure four but it's a little backwards figure two call that the figure two unfortunately she's not gonna get a zone here but great climbing from megan lynch this week it was really great to see her back in competition sometimes you don't have the best round but you just got to move on to the next one and she's capable of a lot of great climbing and we saw a lot from her this week it's still eligible for both of our salt lake back-to-back world cups yep may 21st 22nd bouldering and may 28th to 30th is bouldering and speed and so megan lynch will definitely be an athlete at those events yeah and she looked awesome and semi's she really did we were blown we were we were blown away by how confident she was climbing it was really nice to see dominant yeah crazy it's looking like in order for brooke to get third place here she just needs a top and then if she can do it quickly she might even be able to move up further not 100 sure gotta do the math my math expert aj i don't think so i think the best she can do is third because natalie and carver have two tops i mean three three tops oh yep so she can't do better than third but she can do third and definitely a boulder that would suit her right into the figure four all right smart climbing i'm not feeling that would happen could that be our yeti move of the day a proper figure sticking that like one hand on boulder two was nails that was nails i feel like this boulder screams brook rabbit too right like all about the toe hooks the heel hooks toe heel feet first anywhere she can get her lower body above her upper body is like the super brook yeah very jam specifically kills that this is like everything that i'm bad at if you could design a boulder specifically for brook it'd be this totally and it looks like it right now yeah looking for a flash here a nice little inside flag crazy what she's doing with her foot there on the volume needs to generate to get here oh easy nice flash from brook rabbit two and that'll move her up i believe yep it'll move her up into third place nice finish for brooke and we will see her again later in the lead and speed disciplines but look at that figure four so nicely done right off the bat really makes that move less taxing can save the energy and she didn't even really swing as much i felt like here she like really locked it off there i think the hardest thing she did on this boulder was chalk up i know yeah you don't see that as often in boulders unless you're like standing on a slab yeah yeah it can be good though especially the air here is pretty humid it'll help cool awesome finish and a really cool boulder to finish on you know it's like tricky funky and it ends with sort of a showy finish move and so cool end on that boulder that was awesome natalya does need to top here to walk away with a win if she just gets the zone she will not but i foresee her getting a top no problem this is another boulder that i think would suit her really well you know brooke and italia specifically spent a lot of time this summer this past summer climbing in the park and i feel like this reminds me a little bit of park climbing just the feet first turning around crossing heel hooks tow hooks holding the tension kind of all the things that they've been doing all summer yeah they racked up a fat list of like v12 13 14 all in like 30 days right it was actually maybe one of the most impressive scenes park seasons yeah for sure like male or female the right she can do here this i mean tonight is second and so that automatically puts her onto the u.s national team and she did need to do that because she didn't qualify for the olympics so this is one of the athletes where it is important where you end up at the end of the competition also choosing to go straight into that figure four having a little trouble finding that toe hook but able to make it happen [Music] really flipping the jib though she's gotta get her looks like i don't need it doesn't matter that is a good pinch though too yeah and a little bit of be able to set the heel immediately and not have to bump her hand out of the way to get the heel on yeah i mean she honestly might have just done that on purpose to be a little more efficient [Music] [Laughter] [Applause] no the top of that looks i mean she's the last climber so it probably needed to be brushed but yoink no problem holds that swing pulls up into the jug nicely and four tops tonight for natalia grossman absolutely dominating this round secures first place for her and i know we're not crowning a a national champion at this event it's only selecting the national team but she's the national team trials champion yeah it's i mean if you want to do world cups that's extremely important so she did exactly what she came here to do this week and she's going to be in lead later on so we'll see if she can join me as well really nice job for natalia grossman what a great bouldering finals round those folders were so exciting and so different super cool to watch in sequencing like i had a feeling they would be entertaining fun they look like really fun boulders to climb too nothing really like tweaky or painful we actually have really good separation as well i mean we have four tops three two two zone no zone no top the root center should be stoved and they did a great job in this format i know a lot of the athletes have done this format at international competitions but no one's had a competition in a while and so getting into it quickly was great anyway thank you so much sean for joining us it was really nice to have your insight and again congratulations on winning tonight and making that national team and we can't wait to see you in the boulders yeah thank you guys yeah i'll try see you guys later bye thanks sean so we're gonna do awards here in a second we have standings for you popping up on the screen soon and stick around we are gonna do awards we're gonna interview natalia and then we're gonna show you guys our women's 2021 national bouldering team so don't go anywhere these are our standings natalia grossman in first tyra connie in second brook rabbit two in third kylie cullen fourth campbell serenopolis fifth and megan lynch rounding out in sixth place [Music] oh natalia congratulations on not only making the national team but winning tonight and this is the second time you've won a bouldering event can you hear me okay you can't hear me so i'm going to say that again congratulations on winning tonight and making that national team and this is the second big bouldering event that you've won how does it feel to have that consistency going for you i don't know it's pretty exciting i didn't know what to expect really just because we haven't had a comp in over a year now so i think just it felt great to be out here again and apply everything i've learned in the past year especially regarding like my mental game and stuff i think i don't know it was just fun to be out again and yeah psyched so knowing that those two back-to-back salt lake world cups are going to happen what does it mean to you to be able to represent the us at those events and then also at the international events like meyering and innsbruck yeah so it's been a goal of mine to make the team ever since i knew this comp was going to happen so i'm pretty excited to represent my country and get to hopefully travel a little bit and yeah i'm i'm excited what would you attribute your growth in the last couple years to is it training like what are some things that you were doing different to really like step up your game i think i learned a lot about how much your mental game can play a role and even just like in the past few months i'm taking a sports psychology class because i'm a psychology major and it's been really cool like applying what i've learned there to this comp i guess well i think you're doing a great job on all fronts applying all of the knowledge you're learning and you're competing better than ever congratulations again and i can't wait to see what you do next [Music] awesome interview from natalia there so we're trying to set up for awards um don't go anywhere i know that this is usually when people clear out of the gym but nobody's in here so stick around and you guys can watch awards and also get a first sneak peek at your 2021 national bouldering team so we'd like to thank yeti and the north face cliff petzl entreprey at a day true blue gnarly and rapid reboot these events would not be possible without usa climbing sponsors and also high point climbing and fitness it is amazing that these guys shut this gym down for five days for us to host this event in the midst of a pandemic when gyms are already closed and struggling and so big thank you to high point climbing and fitness it's been amazing hosting this event here a lot of covert precautions have been in place we've all been in masks we've all been tested a lot of us have our first vaccine and so we're as being safe as we possibly can here and i think a lot of people are just grateful and excited to be back at climbing event it's been over a year really fun to watch right now all right guys we're gonna announce the award so athletes get ready to come up to the cooler stage at this time presenting the awards brought to you by yeti we have bruce mitchell president of usa climbing mark norman ceo of usa climbing keith gressel general manager of high point climbing and fitness jessie markowitz mountain marketing manager for yeti winning the bronze medal and already representing the usa as an olympic qualifier is brooke rabato [Applause] winning the silver medal and also already representing usa as an olympic qualifier kyra condy winning the gold medal and the 2021 national team trials representing usa and gaining a position on team usa is natalia grossman so um and our other two athletes that will be representing team usa are kylie cullen and campbell saranopoulos they also qualify for that national team and will be competing internationally at the world cups congratulations ladies thank you everyone for tuning in please be sure to come back at 7 00 pm on monday for speed finals [Applause] in low slips it was double hand catch the zone [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] and our others i think winter has become my favorite season here that's when you get those dramatic views brings out all the colors and the gray pops and it just i feel like it's kind of like mecca or the center of the universe it's not a fluffy place to come it's not a feel good boost your ego it's just like you get a beating yeah if i could only climb one place for the rest of my life it would be yosemite since 1966 we have viewed walls not as obstacles but as from the big walls of yosemite to the high peaks of the himalaya we were searching for a personal kind of freedom in this pursuit we found a community strengthened by different stories experiences and perspectives this community has shown us that the only way forward is together [Music] we fight the battles no one hears about we drop into the middle of firefights to rescue others and act as one-man air traffic control towers we're the ones who go before all others [Music] join the fight [Music] my [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] you

Channel: USA Climbing

Views: 253,846

Rating: 4.8558908 out of 5

Keywords:

Id: HsNdf0e85TQ

Length: 127min 10sec (7630 seconds)

Published: Sat Mar 27 2021

Reddit Comments

[u/threw_it_up]

5 minutes of googling shows that you are right, page 80: http://www.usaclimbing.org/Assets/USA_Climbing_Rulebook_2020-2021_v10_20200902.pdf

I'd guess it was either an oversight, or it doesn't technically count as a downward jump for some reason that's beyond me.

The commentator even calls it a downward dyno, although at another point she calls it a 'lateral jump'.

While we're on the subject, what makes downward jump so dangerous that they needed to ban them from competitions? I guess if a climber doesn't make the jump they could hit the hold and get hurt, but that's true for climbing in general...

[u/SpicyQosmo]

18:43

Doesn't look very dangerous, but I though they were not allowed

[u/doivud]

Might be allowed in usa climbing comps but not ifsc?

[u/rubberduckythe1]

This was discussed in the chat. In normal downward dynos, the climbers catch a hold with their arms only so it puts a lot of stress on the shoulders, etc. In this situation, they are landing with their legs mainly.

[u/TaCZennith]

This isn't a downward dyno in the traditional sense because they land foot-first. Skirts the rule pretty well.

[u/2Cars1Spot]

Also unrelated but does anyone know why they turned off comments for both mens and women's finals?