Beginner's Guide to CLO Part 4 Materials & Presentation: Topstitch & Puckering (Lesson 2)

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you hello and welcome to the top stitch and puckering portion of this training series in this video I'd like to walk you through on how to utilize both the top stitch and the puckering tools let's start by exploring the top stitch tools you could find the top stitch tools in the 2d toolbar here there's the Edit top stitch tool segment free and seam line top stitch each have their own unique applications which we'll go through together I'll start by using the segment top stitch tool and apply it to this front pocket here to apply top stitch just left click on a segment top stitch will always be identified in this hot pink color if you want to select or edit that top stitch I need to select the Edit topstitch tool here with that tool selected I could select either the point of the top stitch segment to change the length of it if I left click on the segment line and hold down shift I can move the whole top stitch segment over or by right clicking I can find the delete option or simply hit backspace on my keyboard to apply top stitch to multiple segments at once you can left-click and hold to Marquis over the pattern and assign them all together anytime you apply top stitch it will be given a generated name here within its property editor as the best practice you can rename them to better differentiate multiple top stitches that share the same line this will help pinpoint any additional overlapping stitching for instance if I apply an additional segment top stitch on this line here and then select it with the Edit top stitch tool Clos will ask me which top stitch application I need to select because we've renamed our initial top stitch I can easily identify the additional one and delete that accordingly applying segments top-stitch to different segments will treat each as a separate application which causes the stitching to overlap this may be a desirable effect for some garments but let's say we wanted to apply a continuous top stitch along the bottom first I'll select my current top stitch by holding shift and then clicking to select and then deleting them altogether then I can use the free top stitch tool and left-click once to start walk it around the bottom and then click once more to finish applying that stitch this will give me a continuous top stitch line along the bottom while retaining my overlap with the initial segment top stitching I applied you can also use the free topstitch tool to create tax if I only want to apply top stitch from a specified portion of a segment in addition if I click once to start and right-click while applying top stitch I'll get this window that allows me to input a specific measurement I'm gonna delete these stitches by selecting them with the edit topstitch tool and marking over them to delete for certain powder pieces I wish to apply top stitching all around such as this shirts collar stand I don't necessarily have to walk my top stitch application around the piece with the free top stitch tool I could simply double-click on any pattern point to quickly apply it all around the less tool is the sceneline topstitch tool seem willing top-stitch applies top stitching on both sides of the seam and also allows you to apply top stitching that overlap seams you can see as I hover my cursor along the shoulder seam my movement is mirrored on the corresponding side seam line top stitch follows your sewing relationships as a guide when applying to each side to apply seam line top stitch just left-click once to start and then click once more to end as you can see the top stitch appears on both sides of the seam and again applying it to the side seams clicking once to start and once more to end now that you're familiar with applying top stitch you're probably wondering how you could customize your own whenever you select the top stitch tool the object browser will automatically switch to the top stitch tab you could customize the top stitch properties by selecting a top stitch in the object browser from the top you have the option to save out any custom top stitch you create to be used or shared in other projects you can rename your top stitch oftentimes garments will have several different top stitching applied so get in the habit of organizing them by name the type is by default set as an obj which means it's an object file so if i zoom into this pocket you could see that the top stitch itself is a three dimensional object which gives it more dimension and realism by clicking the drop-down arrow there's also an option to express top stitch as a texture some users may prefer to use textures over OBJ's to prevent adding additional geometry to their projects the texture option can also be a great way to express repeated texture images and sort of mimics a brush tool I'll revisit this concept later on in the tutorial and give you some ideas on how you could leverage this option right below that you'll find the offset option which has a number of presets available to use I'm going to adjust my view here so we could see it a little better if I change my offset from the default of 1/8 to 1/4 you could see how that change is the difference in the distance from the pockets edge stitch count gives you the option to apply multiple stitches on a single top stitch preset for example by selecting 2 stitches in my settings I now have two tabs which allows me to specify each stitch configuration separately such as my first stitch to apply to the front or face of the fabric versus the bottom or the back side of the fabric for this tutorial I'll keep it at 1 but I'll show you later how you could utilize closed top stitch library which has most industry standard stitching built out front and back for you within specification there shape which is the style of top stitch click on the downward arrow to see a list of options most of these are commonly used top stitches and certain ones such as zigzag will overlap any seams where there's seam line top stitching applied once I hide the avatar you'll see the zig-zag stitch overlap the seam line on the side seams as well as the shoulder seam I'll revert back to the single top stitch shape next is the SPI length which means stitches per inch space below allows you to control the spacing between each stitch if I apply a higher value more spacing is applied making it appear as more of a pick stitch style thread thickness controls just that how thick your thread appears in production thread size is commonly influenced by the fabrics weight for example top stitch for denim products can be anywhere as big as 80 to 120 you can also specify which unit to measure the thread thickness the material section is quite similar to how you go about changing fabrics like the previous post but let's go over as a recap there's the material type which is the sheen or reflective qualities of the material under basic parameters is texture which already has a default texture image applied by clicking this icon I could see and open the texture file within the browsing window this gives the top stitch a bit more realism and you always have the option to import your own there's also the normal map in displacement sections the topstitch OBJ's are very small so these maps may not come through as much to recolor top-stitch click on the white swatch here to access the color window here you can either create your own or use the eyedropper tool to extract colors from the fabric if you're going for a die to match top stitch or utilize the Pantone color library to the right here lowering the opacity value will affect the top stitch transparency and the reflection pertains to the material types I addressed earlier this section allows you to adjust the specific roughness and reflection intensity parameters meaning how light bounces off the material as well as the brightness itself next down is configuration this allows you to control which face or the side of the fabric the top stitch appears by default it will be set to the front but there are the options to set it to the back or even both sides of the fabric remembering these settings are helpful in some instances for example I'm going to apply top stitch on this half symmetrical color for which I only have to apply on one side and it will reflect on the other now when I view my collar there doesn't seem to be any top stitch applied this is because the current garment display view is set to thick textured surface which doesn't display the front and back side of the fabric if I now switch to textured surface you could see that in fact this is actually on the back side of the fabric because this pattern piece has rolled over the collar stand sure enough when I rotate to the other side you can see that the top stitch is actually applied to the face of the fabric depending on the construction of your garment you could either adjust the configuration and change the face the easiest way to fix this is by flipping the face of the pattern itself by right-clicking and selecting flip normal lastly is the 3d option click this box to see its options what this does is place the normal map right underneath the top stitch which gives a shadow effect this gives the illusion that top stitch is sinking into the fabric and helps add additional realism to your top stitch you can apply your own normal Maps if there's a particular type of top stitch detail you're trying to express the intensity controls how dark those shadows appear and the thickness is the width of the normal map in addition to customizing top stitch clothes an extensive library of industry standard stitching already built out for you navigate to the library window and double click on hardware and trims and find the top stitch folder you'll see some initial presets and then there is also an ISO standard folder if you don't have the ISO standard folder be sure to download any new content by clicking on this icon when it appears blue when you hover over the presets you could view both the front and back stitching used to apply any presets I could simply left-click and hold and drag and drop it over my current top stitch in order to swap it out as you can see it replaces my applied top stitch with the double needle and if I look at the backside of this pattern I could see the cover stitch to apply multiple top stitching presets double-click on another you may get this information window that lets you know it's been added to your object browser much like how we applied fabric in the previous tutorial you need to assign the new top stitch to a segment if I just add the top stitch there's going to be a trash can icon that informs me that it isn't assigned to anything because my new top stitch is selected any new stitching I apply will be applied to that top stitch and as you can see it is now applied on the hem you to navigate between multiple applied stitching you could select the applied top stitch itself with the Edit top stitch tool which the corresponding stitching will illuminate in blue text this checkmark simply is the last top stitch you applied in your object browser and doesn't necessarily indicate which exact ops that you've selected again whichever top stitch you select in the object browser will be applied on any new stitching you create you alternatively if I select this three-needle stitch in the object browser it will be applied to the pattern another application I mentioned earlier was using top stitch as a texture repeat I'll begin by selecting add to create a new top stitch then within my property editor I'll change obj to texture once I select a texture the material properties will change now including a top stitch image as a texture repeat what I can do is now assign my own texture repeat and essentially use the top stitch function to work as a brush tool I linked my top stitch folder in the library window and provided a few examples to demonstrate with I'll start by dragging and dropping Stone image into the texture section of the top stitches property editor by selecting edit top stitch I could select the top stitch segment and then click the downward arrow to assign my new custom stitch as you can see it repeats the stone texture and gives the effect of a hotfix trim I've also included this plain rectangle repeat that works great as an easy way of expressing scene taping just to give you some ideas any PNG motifs can also be used to express intricate stitching or prints the opposite is a bit off so I'll lower the value a bit to connect the repeat also any sort of trim tape works great as a top stitch this opens up a lot of potential applications to incorporate into your designs now that we've covered the top stitch tools let's explore some ways to apply puckering you could find the puckering tools in the 2d tool bar here right next to the top stitch tools my views collapsed so I'm just gonna expand my window a bit so we could see them there's four puckering tools that are nearly identical to the topstitch tool functionalities there's the Edit puckering segment free and seam line puckering let's add some puckering to some of our top stitching details I'm going to start by adding top stitching on the back yoke of this shirt I'll select the free top stitch tool to apply along the two segments on this patterns edge that will apply an edge stitch there and I'll go ahead and use the free puckering tool to apply over those same segments applied puckering is always indicated in this purple color whereas top stitch will be indicated in this hot pink color you can always tell where puckering is applied by selecting the puckering x' name in the object browser and any application again will illuminate in that purple color whenever you apply puckering you'll automatically be directed to its tab in the object browser make sure you select the puckering name to view its property editor here you can open or save your custom puckering rename it there's also a few presets here that express different kinds of puckering details based on the fabrication going through these you can see how those details vary between the different types of fabric I'll keep mine on cotton because I'm using the cotton Oxford fabric for the shirt in the basic parameters you'll see that there's actually no texture as puckering is expressed through a normal map some options such as color have no effect here because of the absence of a texture same with opacity changing this value will have no effect on the visibility of the puckering if you do want to change its intensity you can always expand the normal map section and adjust it from there down here is the specifications density pertains to how close those puckering details are to each other for example if I lower this value they'll be closer together whereas the larger value will tend to space them more apart then lastly is width which is the length of the puckering if I hire this value you'll see the length of it extend let's practice some more utilizing both topstitch and puckering tools together I'll edit the shoulders seam here I'll start by going into the top stitch tab to create a new one give that a name so it's easy to identify and then go to its offset to set the value to 1/4 make sure you have the Edit top stitch tool applied in order to select it applied as a seam line top stitch earlier I'll need to delete the current top stitch and apply a new one so that my single needle stitch only appears on one side I'll reapply it with the segment top stitch tool now it appears only on the backside and then I'll apply puckering as well to that same segment this way both applications are layered giving it that extra detail I'll do this once more on the side seam first hiding the avatar so I could see it better the seam also currently has seam line top stitch applied to it so I'll need to reapply the stitching as well you could tell it's seam line top stitch because when I select it both sides of the seam illuminate and apply using segments top stitch along the whole side and also use segment puckering this will add some more subtle details for that extra realism you can also select your edit your puckering by using the edit puckering tool just like top stitch you can either edit the length of it or shift the whole segment over free puckering allows you to set it at a specified length by clicking to start and then right-clicking to input a value and seam line puckering will apply it on both sides of the seam I'll delete this one to demonstrate unlike seem like top stitch that works more like the free top stitch tool seam line puckering will apply it to whole segments so that is the subtle difference between those tools and now you could see that the puckering is visible on both sides of the seam similar to fabric and top stitch you can add multiple types of puckering to use on a project or make copies of them so that concludes this top stitch in puckering tutorial I hope this was helpful and I'll see you in the next one
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Channel: CLO
Views: 22,060
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Keywords: CLO3D, CLO, 3D, Virtual, Fashion
Id: ZncCv3ijsZM
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Length: 20min 38sec (1238 seconds)
Published: Fri Mar 27 2020
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