Beginner's Guide to CLO Part 3 Garment Details: Folds & Pleats (Lesson 1)

hi everyone welcome to the third section of clove basic training which covers how to express garment details such as folded collars cuffs and pleats elastic and down fill this first video will explain how to fold things will go over fold angles how to create a simple pleat and the fold arrangement tool you can follow along by dialing the practice files from the close that link in the video description below all right so once you have your files downloaded let's open number one fold angles and you're gonna get this rectangular pattern piece with a bunch of internal lines on it we're going to create a accordion fold with this and I'll explain the basic rules of folding and what you'll actually have to know in order to get started and the first thing is you need an internal line in order to fold anything so if I click on this internal line right now I'm gonna see that in my property editor I have a bunch of full properties if you don't have internal lines like over here for example these are base lines they're blue and when I click on them I actually can't select them they're common if you are using your own patterns and you have some reference lines or something or if you import a pattern from elsewhere and there's like a hold marking but you can't actually click on it you can use your trace tool at that point to select these lines I'm gonna hold our shape to select both and then you can hit your Enter key on your keyboard in order to activate them so now they are internal lines they're red and you can click on them okay so the fold properties you have fold strength fold angle and fold rendering fold strength is how much pressure you actually need in order to fold your pattern piece this is determined by your fabric so for example if you have a really thick or dense leather or something the fold may not look as great or as crisp if your full strength is low generally five is okay I just leave it on five but this make it take some trial and error for you to get the a great amount for the fabric that you're using fold angle is the angle of the fold so if you remember from basic geometry class you have your circle which is 360 degrees and then your plane which is your pattern piece is 180 degrees so all of your internal lines will actually be at 80 degrees to start and then when you increase or decrease the fold angle you'll get different folds if I turn on simulation right now and change my folds angle to under 180 it's gonna fold back and you can see that angle is less than 180 degrees then if I move it forwards I'm gonna increase the angle above 180 degrees but you don't actually have to remember this as much you just have to know 0 180 and 360 and we'll create our fold so I'm gonna go ahead and just reset this and I want my angles to be opposite of each other so I'm going to select every other line with my transform pattern tool holding down shift to grab all of them at once if you notice right now my fold angle is in red this is because I had just changed a full dangle that last line if you see that any of your properties are in red it just means that you've selected a bunch of things and they all don't have the same value so not all of these are 180 degrees if I can still enter in a number right now and change it if I want I'm going to change all of these to be 0 and then I'm going to select the other lines that I didn't grab before and change them to be 360 so those are opposite angles and I'm going to do one more step before I actually simulate I'm gonna strengthen my pattern piece if I right-click on any pattern piece and clos I can find the strength and property strengthening is just like a temporary starching it'll turn your pattern piece orange so you know it's strengthened and it gives it a bit more structure as I'm folding so that my pattern pieces don't collide and they eventually settle and actually look crispy and nice when I turn simulation on right now my pattern will jump together and I'll be a cool accordion once I finished my fold and it's settled I right click and unstring --then so that everything is relaxed just a touch on the last couple of fold properties if you look at your pattern piece now you'll notice that some of your lines are super bright red and the others are a cool blue this is an indication of what the angles are that you've changed your lines to the red means that the line is less than 180 degrees and the blue means that the line is above 180 degrees so normally zero 360 this is just a good way for you to keep track of what lines have folds applied to them and what lines don't and then the last fold property is fold rendering this just means do you want to see at your internal line or no and if you check off your fold area will still be folded but the line won't be crisp and it'll just look rolled so if I uncheck this you'll notice that like it's starting to smooth it out a bit if I hide my internal lines in my baselines you'll see that this is supposed to be smooth it out I'm at a pretty high particle distance so it doesn't look that great right now but if I go down to five and simulate this is a smooth edge and then this with my folds rendering on is super pointy and depending on how realistic you want your patterns to be how like what kind of material you're using you may decide to have the fold rendering on or off it's up to you and that's basically cording pleat so the next step is we're gonna use our fold angle and fold properties in order to do a collar and create back plates on a button-down shirt I'm gonna go ahead and open to women's button-down in the folds and pleats lesson folder and we're gonna live in this file for the rest of the lesson in this one we're going to fold down the collar fold up the cuffs and also finish the back pleats and I'm going to start with the cuffs of the collar because those are technically the easiest like I said before sometimes you get patterns and you don't actually have an internal line to fold do you need one you have this reference line or base line I'm just going to trace it out with the trace tool if you double-click on this line it will select both sides for you and then we hit enter on my keyboard based on the last project file you'll probably want to select the line and change the fold angle but it's actually not going to work on most cuffs and collars just because it's already sewn onto your garment and when I do try to change the angle it's not strong enough to fold down the entire pattern piece that's okay there's a tool I'm gonna change this backwards there's a tool that will actually help you fold down your collar it's called the fold arrangement tool and it works on any internal line so once I click on it I can just select my internal line click on that and then a gizmo pops up and I can use these little handles to actually move my collar and fold it back so the easiest way of doing this would actually be to rotates you can see the full circle of your gizmo and then you can go ahead and just move it I wouldn't go too far in once you start to see the bottom or your collar stand kind of lead-in that's when you know you've gone too far and it's okay to like not go down all the way you're just kind of influencing the direction that the caller is gonna go in like with the other project file I do want to right-click and strengthen this it helps me make sure that this area doesn't become a problem or try to like flip back up once I hit simulate so now I'm going to simulate it and it should lay it down nice and flat once I'm good I can right-click a nun strengthen and you're going to notice that your collar still doesn't look that great it's really really crisp here and may look a little blocky if you remember from the first one of the first lessons about particle distance this is a good area where having a low particle distance will make your car look much nicer so if you notice it's pretty jagged right here if I click on my pattern piece right now and go to my parkland distance in my property editor I just change it down to five my color is gonna smooth itself out and look much more realistic and I'm just gonna simulate to update this change cool if you want a really really iron down Chris collar you can leave this internal line the way it is if you are if you're looking for a more of a rolled collar look you can turn off your fold rendering and your collar rule out it'll be as if that internal line doesn't exist or you can just delete the line if you don't need to do anything else with this collar and you're done editing it and then once I simulate you'll see that my collar has rolled out nicer and it's over there you're still getting some of this jaggedness this is actually because of your mesh because you we are automatically in i triangular mesh we the collar won't actually lay down super nice and flat you can change this if you select your collar in your property editor under miscellaneous you can change your mesh type to be a quad this will convert your triangle mesh into a quad mesh and when you simulate you'll have a much nicer role and that's just because triangles are pointy and quads are smooth so if you can kind of see it a bit over here cool you can do the same for your cuffs right now I'm just gonna use my folder arrangement tool click on them I can do both before I simulate and then just select both and strengthen them before I simulate sometimes you do run into some issues the good thing with strengthening on is you can easily just pull out it to fix it without ruining the rest of your patterns then I'm gonna right click and on strengthen to finish I can choose to keep my journal lines or not but I can really change it to be 5 particle distance if you are working on other edits or your files getting pretty huge you can leave your patterns to be on a higher particle distance but just for the sake of showing the high quality finished look I'm gonna change it down so that looks pretty good to me if I wanted to I could also change my sleeves to be quad mesh and they look much nicer moving on to our back we're gonna learn how to do pleats or tucks and following the markings on this pattern piece I have my pattern split up into symmetric parts just so I can show on one side and know like to automatically match the other side for me but if you didn't have a symmetric pattern you'd have to do this on both sides so I know my pleat is going to fold to the left but first I need to trace out these internal lines and we can talk about right now when you would use the folder arrange this one you don't for tucks and pleats I generally wouldn't use the folder arrangement tool just because it's moving my entire pattern piece so if I use my folder arrangement tool right now and try to click on this and fold it I'm gonna definitely run into some collision issues because my entire pattern piece is trying to merge inside my avatar and then I won't even be able to select the other lines I need to fold so I'm gonna undo that so I would suggest sewing everything else down first so that you have a good arrangement for your pleat sewing so my whole back piece is sewn except for this section and that's fine because I kind of have it like my structure already down I'm gonna immediately select both of my pattern pieces and strengthen them and then just simulate so that they stiff up and I have the I can see both of my pleated areas then I'm going to select first my first line usually you'll have three lines the first one is the direction of the pleat and then the second one is the inner inside of the pleat and you'll have similar markings as to my pattern the first one depending on what direction you want the pleat to go the easiest way of doing this is just to turn stimulation on and change the fault angle on and like look on the screen of what direction you want the pleat to go in so it looks like this is going in so I actually want it to be at zero so that the pleat will go out and fold to the left I'm going to select the inside line now and this one was zero I want the opposite of that which is 360 so I know my other line has to be 360 and when I change it my pleat is going the direction that I wanted to so that's the logic of your tux or your pleats it's always one line will be either 0 or 360 and then the other line will be the opposite number this last line you don't really need it's just an indication of where the pleat will meet and it will you'll keep it at 180 degrees so once I folded it I can now sew it down and sewing is you're gonna start at the inner at the angle and then sew out and you're gonna just sew the different sides of the angle to each other and I'm used to doing it in 2d but if you want to you can also sew in the 3d window but so this is the line where my pleat is and this is the inside of the angle I'm gonna click and so out with my free setting tool and then click again to sew out on the other side and that creates my first sewing relationship and again I need to sew the second part of my pleat to the pattern I'm going to start on the inside corner so out and start and the inside corner is so out and I'm gonna try stimulation on to see if my sewing is correct which it should be and then the last thing about pleat sawing is that you want to I'm going to use my edit edit sewing tool to select my sewing lines you want your sewing line type to be turned if you remember from the sewing videos that if you have pattern pieces on top of each other and sewn together it's better to turn them turn the sewing type to turned this just means that they're not going to be ironed out flat like a side seam would be but they're gonna be turned out like like a pocket for example for this instance these pleats they all these different layers are on top of each other so it together so I do want it to be turned just so I can decrease that puffiness that will happen and it's a good small thing but it does make a difference once you go into high-rez all right and now I'm gonna right click on strengthen and there's my pleat I can now so this entire thing to the yoke cool there we go you and if you decide you don't need these lines anymore you can always turn the folder rendering off or delete them sometimes I like to just decrease the length of the inner fold just so I don't see that little line but if you are really soft fold or a soft tuck you can always just delete these as well so now that we've done it the manual way I'm going to explain the pleat sewing in pleats fold tools which are a more automatic way of doing it but it's better to understand the logic of the angles and y1 is 361 and 0 etc before you actually use these tools these are super helpful for if your current guy trying to do multiple motox or like a pleated skirt or something and you have a lot of internalized to deal with but generally you only have one or two and it's pretty easy to manually change the fold angle but if we want to learn how to use these tools we can I'm going to just delete my complete sewing and I'm going to change my internal line angles back to 180 we're just going to start from the beginning you can open up your file again if you want instead of doing it this way let's just start fresh and have to sleep sewing as well okay and I'm going to strengthen this again just so everything is flat and nice laid out for me so the pleat-fold tool and the pleat sewing tool the preschool tool will automatically assign different fold angles to all your internal liens and that's cool because you don't have to select each line separately and do it to use it you just click on it and you're going to select the lines you're going to use and then you're gonna go in a direction that you want to fold so to select your lines I'm gonna first click on one side of all blind so on the right side and then you get this line this arrow and you're gonna cross over all of your internal lines and then double click on the other side it pleats fold box will appear that will ask you if you want knife pleats box pleats or accordion pleats and in this video we're just doing basic pleating so we're not going to go into box weeds but this would be a knife fleet and the number of internal lines per pleat if this just means does your pattern have to just the two lines as markings or do you have the three lines including the one that you don't use which is the 180 degrees flat line and since I have three lines I'm gonna select three and you'll notice that my first line will be will turn red my second wall turn blue and my last one is the normal internal line color like I said before I know this is correct because if it's a bright red line that means my angle is less than 180 degrees and if it's a blue line then my angle is over 180 degrees I'm gonna hit OK and just simulate to see if this is correct and it is so that got us to where we were before when we were manually changing the fold angles but in order to use this tool you do have to understand why each fold angle value is the way it is and how to do it manually first so that's why I explained it the other way now we're gonna do our sewing and the kwid sewing tool is the more complicated tool it automatically shows one segment to three segments if you notice your pleat is made out of three segments I'm gonna use my edit pattern tool to click on it so one two three you should have a point separating each segment where the lines are intersecting if you don't have a point there you can select the end of your line and choose extend slash trim and add point to pattern outline so that it creates your different segments the tool isn't smart enough to automatically group your pleat together unless you separate into these segments same with the above you ill automatically so so for example if I so click and then click at the end and then I click here it's grouping those three segments to one but it's not smart enough to know how like why that first section should be so you do have to split up your your lines into segments that are equal to do that I want to measure how long how big my pleat actually is I'm gonna use my edit pattern tool and just click on it and attach to my cursor and on the line is how long it is it's point 492 so up here I'm gonna create a point that is point 492 away from the center so to do that I'll right click on this hit split I'm gonna choose split into two lines and this is the new segment so I will say that it's point four nine two and I'll do that for the other side as well alright now that my segment is split up and equal to my finished pleat size I'm gonna click on my pleat sewing tool I'm going to click here to start and then click here to end this first section of my sewing relationship and if I click here to start it groups those three pleats together are those three segments together into one pleat and it will do the sewing that we did manually before so if I use my edit sewing tool now and click on these sewing relationships all of them have been turned for me already and they're sewn to each other and to this top section you do still have to do this section and sew it on its own so I can just quickly do that alright and that's our pleat so in the future we will be creating tips and tricks videos talking more about pleats and the pleats of fold tool will probably create a video talking about how to create a full pleated skirt and other cool things but for now this is enough to get you guys started if you'd like more practice in the low set files there are two practice files as a men's button-down with an added cuffed pleat that would be cool to create and then a woman's collared dress where you can figure out how to sew the tucks on to her bodice and that's it so good luck and if you have any questions or comments please write them below don't forget to Like and subscribe and thank you for watching you

Channel: CLO

Views: 36,076

Keywords: CLO3D, CLO, 3D, Virtual, Fashion

Id: xab0oWSPQ0c

Length: 27min 50sec (1670 seconds)

Published: Tue Mar 17 2020