Antique Drag Saw [Restoration] - Part 2: Will It Run?

[Music] welcome the final special and narrated episode of hand tool rescue I had a good response on the narration but it unfortunately will be going away and things will be back to normal very soon so let's get started I am working on the wooden portion of the frame of the drag saw it is going to be completely remade left rough as to look old but completely new out of elm it is something that I have locally here I actually milled this piece of wood myself and dried it myself and I finally have a chance to use it it will be much heavier much stronger than the original pine it might add some weight for the left leave I like to personally try and destroy all my fuels to the maximum so that I have to buy new ones it's really a great idea I'm gonna leave this up but not crazy right so you can see my cut line there is not the greatest so I'm just going to use the power planer to clean that up a bit so it's nice and flat one of these edges needs to be nice and flat for the surface of the engine to actually sit I'm using oddly a flushing or skinny to form the handles on the wooden frame I'm gonna do my own design on the handles why not there seems to be an inconsistency on what the handles really look like so I get to kind of do whatever I want to do here again leaving it kind of like that hand-hewn saw marks look on it almost exactly like the original that I have right here I'm lining up the holes the initial holes for the bottom of the wheel base that I'm going to be attaching later but I'm going to add an inch or two of material to overhang on the edge just to add a little bit more stability to the whole saw I've seen these things running and sometimes they rock back and forth like crazy and makes it you know even more dangerous than it already is I have new black square head bolts but original nuts that will be going on here because as you saw in the last video I completely destroyed one of the bolts trying to get the nuts off the wheels are just solid steel through and through very very simple they are spoke to fix where the spokes in the previous video and they just ride on these axles that are also cast-iron so it's just a cast iron to cast iron surface a little bit of oil and that's pretty much all you have apparently you can see that overhang there on the on the base I'm hoping that that does help now I'm missing the pins these are the original pins only have one and that locks the position of the wheels in place which can be tilted and you'll see near the end of the video how they're so quickly remake the pin tool a very very simple turning that's just two diameters and a certain length and you're done I attached it to a bronze chain that I had in the shop and that'll look kind of nice I guess nicer than an on bro that's what I need salt also form the what I'm gonna call the kind of hook or latch bolts that are used for mounting the engine in the back to the actual metal frame that we just attached to those wooden pieces so the original ones are completely bent the threads are destroyed so they need to be completely remade and it's incredibly simple to turn something straight into a hook so I will do that twice of course and try to match up that angle of hook to the original and I got pretty close there and as long as it can hook on to that metal frame will add some rigidity to this whole thing and you see how that hooks underneath right there all of these bolts were upgraded in size they went from 7/16 to half an inch I thought an extra sixteenth of an inch of material would also increase the rigidity of this entire tool it's just I don't want to see this rocking back and forth when I'm running it's dangerous enough as it is so now the back of the engine is situated precisely as I want so I will mark the front positions and just drill the holes and everything will hopefully be fine again this is just an upgraded size the holes the actual costume of the engine block are large enough to accept this maybe they were left undersized so you could gonna lose the engine a little bit left and right to position it accordingly but in this case I get to align everything's completely perfectly because I am the one reconstructing this I also opted to go for little accents of brass nuts just for the engine block no real reason just thought it would look good now the gas tank we didn't tackle in the first part but we need to get to this now I need to remove all the gross gunk and paint off of it which isn't original originally this was galvanized but I do need to find out if there's rust inside if any of the holes are blocked in the at least that connect you guys filters or whatever is going on in there that allows guys to come out of the tank and a check for leaks of course so there's something flying around in there and I can hear it so I'm gonna fill this entire thing up with evapo rust beyond the rim to see if it does leak and it seems to leak right at this crazy soldering business going on here I'm not exactly sure what happened here my guess is that someone tried to Sutter on a new threaded cap and ended up chasing the solder around the entire cap and the rest of the tank and that worries me maybe the solder around the cap melt at the same temperature as the rest of the solder in the entire tank so gas will start forming out everywhere so just to make sure I don't fall into that same trap I'm gonna seal it with a gas resistant epoxy and if that fails you can actually buy these gas tanks completely per head new there are people that make them and I can just do that if I need to here we have the mixer slash carburetor as some people might call it but this isn't really a a carburetor in that sense everything has been completely cleaned you can actually buy the valve stems for the or the needle valve stem portions completely brand-new as well so if these don't seat well and when I close the needle valve it completely shuts off the gas if a little bit of gas gets through then I can buy a new needle valve and they don't have to worry about that so little things like that in terms of having those options is really nice rarely do I get to have that with with the tools I'm restoring it puts my mind at ease especially this one this one is the side that you would use to heat up the engine and run it on gas before you switch it over to kerosene and I won't even be using that portion at all because we're running it straight off gasoline I purchased a gasket in trying to find the best possible gasket or Lisa closest to what was originally there because this gasket that I took off in part one is not original either but the one I did purchase is a graphite and stainless steel gasket I would assume that probably just copper like a solid chunk of copper was the gasket for this originally it might have been something different but just because both surfaces are already pitted I'll just put some gasket silicone all over this and it should seat just fine now if you're paying attention you'll notice a larger mistake I just made there some people might have caught it some people might not but I completely forgot to cut the hole for the piston and the gasket before I put it on I'm a genius so luckily I didn't torque anything down and tighten all the bolts so I just removed it quickly cut it out and then slapped it back together before the Silicon had time to dry you have about an hour to before that dries and you really need to crank things down anyways but that would have been horrendous if I totally forgot and didn't catch that mistake just leaving these hand tight and then in about an hour to you go a new super crank tighten them to the torque specs which don't exist for this so it's just going to be as tight as the recommended torque settings are for that size of thread now the valve springs I can actually just put on by hand which is odd they're weak enough that that's the case but they don't need to be any stronger apparently now the rocker arm pin was completely worn out so I just turned a quick new one nothing very confusing or special about that and I'm just loosely putting in the cotter pins that I will then cut off and Bend out when I'm sure everything is correct the rocker arms are fine enough you have to remember that everything on this motor is kind of made to be sloppy the governor assembly was kept together if you remember from the first video because I didn't want to mess with some of the settings and that actually worked out massively in my favor and it was a great call by me by just pure chance when I tried to get this thing running it was difficult and I'm glad I didn't touch any of this I know how it works now so that makes me happy but I just I'm also very happy I didn't mess too much with that if you haven't noticed I am NOT painting this this entire engine block will not be painted the exposed brazing is going to be there I want to show that off I want to keep this thing looking somewhat old but I need to fix everything that is wrong with it I need to get it running the reason I'm keeping it old looking is that I want to show the this off engine shows locally and I think that that kind of matches what it needs to be for that type of event and if I ever want to paint this I can I can paint this I know everything's that's wrong or okay with it and I'm not concerned I think it will be a good look over time to have this thing not literally sprayed green or red depending on what year everything everything was spray garita right just overspray to everything I don't personally think it looks as exciting I did though decide to paint certain parts to highlight certain motions or Assemblies of motion if you want to call it so here I am coloring everything green the original color green of the actual moving saw arm and the flywheel itself will be completely red it just kind of draws your eye to those two aspects of the motor which I think are the cooler of all the aspects of the motor I'm also reinstalling the original shims they were stacked for shims high and I'm removing one remember I didn't touch these babbitt bearings at all so i'm just gonna remove one shim that should tighten things up a bit and bring forth a new surface for the nice cleaned crankshaft to ride on as long as it moves freely it doesn't have any play I'm completely happy with that getting the connecting rod on is kind of tricky and I'm just kind of oiling as I go along some of these parts will eventually receive grease but the little oil just to get things going is is fine with me I do need to still attach the counterweights to the crankshaft and that is there because this design of a motor does not have a flywheel on the other side it's a saw arm on the other side so to balance that weight you need those counter weights upon the actual crankshaft otherwise this thing won't be jumping around up and down it would not be balanced at all so these are the counter weights I thought a little bit about highlighting these as well in some sort of paid color but decided to just leave it all the kind of mechanical engine parts are just gonna be left because at the end of the day this thing just spits out oil the cylinder is completely open it spits out oil and gas and those turn basically black anyway so what's the point hitting that with scotch brite was so interesting even the camera fell asleep finally on to the clutch mechanism this piece I didn't even know what I did wrong until I went to go start this entire saw this was tricky very tricky first off the first problem the bronze bearings or the balls are and the top steel cap they touch the ball what the balls don't actually touch they can't move so now that there's a gap the steel disc is actually instead of just on the bronze itself that must have worn significantly over time and now if I switch to grease because I know there's a grease cap on this now the main clutch system is kind of like a comb where there's an inner portion you can kind of see it there with the see-through holes and then the outer casting and those are supposed to be separate pieces I don't know why I didn't catch that but they're completely stuck still even after being evaporates that they're so close together not even water can get in there so once I turn this on they finally freed up that clutch and like turned up just by hand it freed up that clutch and I was able to seal that rust come out luckily I sorted that out before I got things going also the outer ring piece the piece that the washer just touched that bushing should have been on the inside of this clutch that's another issue that I didn't catch until I went to try and turn this thing over it's little things like this that actually filming the process kind of helps this is the shaft that the entire saw arm mechanism turns on and I actually ended up completely remaking this thick shaft it was it was too worn when I would spin the flywheel it just the saw arm was not safe looking at all so I turned it brand new out of stainless steel and it it's much better now you can see this arm go together here the big gearing which is probably fine with just some oil may be grease but it's not usually it's a smart idea to put the key in before before you assemble things but luckily things are so loose here it doesn't even matter with that assembled we are back to finishing the frame I'm trying to attach the spikes near the front of the frame of the saw that latch on to the log dig in and help stabilize so I just used some red tape to mark the spots where little feet go so these these spikes can't twist in position and then I'm just gonna lock it down with bread new square nuts because the original ones remember we had to chop off with the angle grinder and no more carriage bolts for that specific application the chain and hook there's a brand new chain everything else is original other than these screws here that I'm using and I'm just gonna cut off in the excess in the way of the chain mechanism from actually functioning so with a heavier duty chain the original one was I don't know if that was original it was a weird two piece chain link like someone just found it and so we're back to normal on that this is the arm that the saw arms carrier rests on when it's not cutting wood there's a little slop in there I guess to allow you to adjust for any movement of wood or something like that but this really locks that frame into position now we're on to making the connecting piece for the saw arm that kind of mimics human being sawing I get to use my nice stanley number two and playing for this whenever I can without a hand plane I'm going to because I absolutely love it and I'm just trying to match the original if you can see underneath here as close as possible all shafts all big shafts on this are an inch and sixteen in diameter so that's what I have here with this Forstner bit but it's not just about drilling two holes for the shafts there are also these locking bolts at the end to stop the ends from splitting so all ends need to be drilled like that they need to be threaded and locked into place I'm not sure how original these are but this piece right here is also elm all of the wood that I was going to be using this is al it's what I have I need to finally drill and countersink the oil holes so originally I read that this was Oil Soap ash and ashes kind of somewhat similar in properties to Elm probably a better suited material than Elm for this but it'll be completely fine here I noticed that this looked like it was wrought iron and it is so I'm brushing on hydrochloric acid onto this piece of steel and it will etch the surface of the wrought iron and give the grain a nice pump and that's for the arm that also attaches to the saw by arm I mean the actual handle cubed hold on to and doesn't die from sign the gas tank is finally attached I did put the little wooden runners underneath the gas tank to support its weight afterwards not a massive deal in my opinion but these new arms right here I know everything is an arm but it's all really arm it's a very army tool these were turned new by me and they're sufficient for what needs to go on here with this mechanism the new bronze bushings that we installed in part one are working completely fine they're not too tight I was worried they would bind because to get that kind of perfect line or on these is it's kind of difficult so I'm glad it's running pretty smooth the piece of wood I just attached is also Elm once again and that's where the sauce sits in and guides so that without that piece the saw would literally just flail left and right as it tried to cut so that's really all that holds the saw from killing you in your sleep that's that handle that we just edged with wrought iron and hydrochloric acid I think rut iron's gorgeous so I like to pop that grain and almost has like a woodgrain appearance there's the wooden part that we just spent time finishing I'm kind of tempted to soak this in oil I don't know if that would change any structural integrity or anything like that but if I keep the shaft oiled through the oil holes I I'm confident that's sufficient for the amount of use this thing's going to get finally we're attaching the clutch arm so you can engage the clutch when you're holding on to the handle and cranking the muffler downwards this time and not directly in my face I'm giving everything a coat boiled linseed oil at first to protect is for rust and the kind of stop stop any places that doesn't need to pay for this feeling that a bunch of people are watching you I hand filed every single tooth on this and thought they were nice and shiny it's dangerously sharp I cut myself just looking at it the saw with only two bolts that is all there's a lot of weight on those two bolts so it seems to have other mounting positions for something else I'm not really sure what that is and finally we're on to the magneto we took this off almost first in the part 1 and it didn't have any spark so we need to investigate as to why that is the case not exactly sure at this moment but usually with a magneto it's the points so we're going to investigate the points and probably clean those up now when I took the covers off I noticed some writing there's North and South written and then I noticed this red and black wire are new they're not covered in cloth they're not original 1920s or 30s wires they're new wires so someone has been in here doing something at some point recently so that kind of gave me some hope that it was just maybe the points were a little bit dirty and then once we clean those up it'll be fine let's just hope that's the case I'm kind of happy that someone was in here that means that they may have been rewound or read magnetized or just had broken wires that were grounding it out replaced I don't know but I'm glad to see someone was in there touching something but I'd like to see it work more than anything we need to remove this blasphemous black paint over brass and not original and it comes off incredibly easily another sign that it was not original and I'm just gonna take 900 hours here to hand off almost with steel wool the outside of all of these and then give a little accent of red on the stop button not just because I thought it would be nice and then I'll wipe the the paint off and reveal the lettering underneath the spark plug you can actually service and take apart so I've done that I should have replaced the copper washer but that's not the end of the world here I just want to see this thing will work and you have to tighten it not too tight that you crack the porcelain top and that's it we'll recap it and it should be back in service now this tag is obviously worn because that's what it's supposed to look like there's literally nothing left but the numbering that was stamped into it by hand or by machine so that is crazy crazy luckily this is another thing that is currently made that I can just purchase so all I need to do is buy one and stamp it myself with the obviously the exact same number and then I'm done very very happy with that it even comes with the two little rivets that you need to attach it to the brass frame I also bought a new one of these the one on the right is deteriorating hey if they make it why not just pick one up makes my life incredibly easy these rivets are kind of not pop rivets but ones that you have to spread the bottom out of and I'm using a tapered punch on the bottom end and a hammer to spread that out and lock this in place and we're done we're in the zone we're so close now I'm cleaning up the points or the one point on this side and just the general outside of that and now it meets well it seems to magnetize sensually and that's all I really need to attach it to the actual engine block you can see the stop lettering there on the button I also machined a new piece or a pin I should say for the magneto this is what latches on to the the timing rocker that decides when this thing is going to spark or not I'll give it a little shot of oil the original one was just a bolt with threads so that's not okay and we have spark so we're in the zone here there's nothing else many missing we have fuel we have spark and we have an unnecessary amount of compression turning this over by hand is incredibly more difficult than it was when we started so I'm happy to see that it's just destroying my body brand-new old oiler set at the proper oil which is about 15 to 20 drops per minute this thing is thirsty the gas primer cup is all the actual stem is all bent so I turned a new one out of brass and spun it on now it's more of a thumb screw and I like it I think it looks good and maybe you do too and finally I almost was going to fill this up with water without putting the valve on and this way used to drain the water after use and yes I did say water so we need to fill this up with water it's not an air-cooled engine we also need to fill all grease cups with Nutella it is the best grease possible for this application obviously the hazelnut notes just add as unisza quoi to it I also on my way from that table to here decided hey I want to do fancy grease cups more more brass accents everywhere because you can never really have enough brass accents so I decided that this one's going to be brass and the one on the connecting rod is also going to be bricks accept it the final touches are painting the lettering on this portion of the saw arm and cleaning up the red flywheel with all that over spray-paint in areas I don't want so that has been cleaned up then we're gonna cut these cotter pins to size because I bought only super extra long ones because I hate myself and we're pretty much ready to go after that I started filling out this water and then I thought hey when I just fill it up with a vapid rest so I did and it'll de rust as we go along so why not you just can't leave it in there now you'll start etching that because it's not fully submerged now we lock the log using the chain to the saws we move the pin we move one wheel sideways because if I move the other one I can't turn the thing over we mess with the timing here there's three settings there's also speed settings on the actual governor and we give it a go the settings on the timing are stop start run and fast and the governor ones are just slow too fast I suck gas in by putting my hand over the mixer and that draws gas or more gas into the cylinder and I just kind of turned it over and hope I'm not flooding it at this point it looks like it's about to go but you never know so now that it's actually running I am fiddling here and there adjusting using the to the governor as you saw just there advancing the timing of slowly down the tiny I'm touching the throttle rod and increasing or decreasing the needle valve on the Jazz mixer to allow more kind of balance here to get it to sound and run and I finally believe I get it to run on a nice slow setting and then ramp up the speed with the governor now it's running at already under way too many it's true [Applause] I'm kind of trying to get it to as low [Music] to be sign of [Applause] I was at this point where I thought oh my god I broke something something's happening why is it dying slowly and religious what's the new gas in it not the soft position engage the clutch mistake is an absolute nightmare would you hold this thing it's just crazy after 10 seconds I'm out I'm out I'm gonna die fake the actual soft frame is creeping over to the left closer to me and off of the log and I really don't I don't need this entire thing to fall off so I just need to stop if this was a real tree where the log wouldn't move this would be much safer situation I have some nice slow-motion shots here to kind of show you the mechanisms that work here and they're all incredibly interesting I absolutely love this thing especially the r-mo moves back and forth it's sliding so nicely nice and greased up consistent motions it's not losing power and it cuts super quickly like that is a very sharp I would love to test this out on everyone you hold the stop button and pray that it stops and you have to hold it the entire time if you let go and it's still turning it's gonna just start up again it got hot enough to wear the but the water almost started boiling so that kind of gives you a sense of how much heat this creates and that's it it is done I will be using this as a showpiece and a remembrance of all the patrons that helped me get that tool and restored I really really appreciate all that kind of stuff

Channel: Hand Tool Rescue

Views: 522,127

Rating: 4.9207501 out of 5

Keywords: restoration, vintage, antique, asmr, diy, make, brass, my mechanics, tysy, diresta, tool restoration, machining, babbitt, bearing, cast iron, awesome restorations, cutting, drag, saw, log, ottawa, hit and miss

Id: t9rkPif0Oi8

Length: 36min 39sec (2199 seconds)

Published: Thu Jul 23 2020