Ridgid Generator / Seized Yamaha Engine - Will it Run?

hey guys welcome back so today brought home this it is a rigid 5700 continuous watch generator powered by a Yamaha engine and as you can probably see this generator is in pretty bad shape it's missing a few things including the recoil at the better part of the airbox the wheels and the feet but that's kind of waste of this machine's problems the gas tank surprisingly is not rusted out but the gas in there is some of the worst smelling gas I have ever smelled but more importantly this engine is locked up solid so you know I bought this machine just to harvest parts off it namely the power head and the gas tank and a few other miscellaneous items but before I go ahead breaking this thing down into bits I do want to check check that engine out a bit closer and make sure that it isn't something stupid before disassembling the whole thing so let me get your set up in a stand and we'll take a closer look at this engine you can tell someone was trying to free this engine one of the fins is freshly broken they probably put a screwdriver on there and just started banging hoping that the thing would free up anyway first things first I'm gonna check the oil there's some oil in there but it is quite low so I'm thinking that this thing actually probably did cease due to lack of lubrication but anyway let me let me pull the spark plug and see what's going on in the cylinder it's hard to tell looking down the spark plug hole but you know I don't see well I don't know if there was a cracks or what those lines are there but the piston was there anyway that's saying something so I am gonna zoom you out and put a bunch of PB Blaster in there and let it soak and while that's soaking I'm gonna pull the blower housing off and just see if I can get a better look at that flywheel there's also a very slight possibility that the magneto could have rusted to the flywheel unlikely but might as well check potentially that magneto is rusted to the flywheel so I want to loosen up those bolts slide that magneto back and see if there's any difference in the way this thing behaves we got some movement it's getting hung up a top dead center and almost a bottom dead center but this is pretty good actually I put a lot more PB Blaster in there as well as some wd-40 think I'm going to spin this with a drill see if I can free it up I actually think that's okay she could figure right after top dead center it's gonna actuate the valves so that's probably what that drag is right there and I think I can hear valve noise so I'm gonna put that valve cover off and just make sure okay that one comes pretty broken so all the bolts are out more or less except for that one but I'm not gonna worry about that now that's kind of the least of our problems right now are at top dead center and that valves tight there's no clearance so that valve most likely was hanging open and that's why you see this these marks here because it was probably burning the valve a bit this intake does have a bit of clearance exhaust has nothing so that needs to be adjusted the broken bolt thankfully is sticking out a bit so I might be able to get that out okay good they're both set to forth out I didn't have to touch the intake it was already good if anything it might be a touch loose but I say touch it might be five-pound but they're both within spec now did not take as much oil as I thought it would I actually used a giant syringe to put it in it was 200 cc's of oil to top that off I got a double check what that translates into as far as quarts go but I think that's good news I'd say that's about a third of a quart I put in maybe a little less and an inch of this size we usually take well about a quart I would think so let me look that up hey I'll be able to tell a little better how low we actually were put the coil back on just go to check for spark real quick nice cut spark now let's check for compression that's almost 70 generally 70 would be bad but this has a compression release and with compression release at least with this size engine you usually don't see above 60 so I think we got compression I know he got spark now we need fuel and this carb I know is a bit of a mess so let's take that off and clean it up this throttle plates completely frozen up so I want to see if I can get it to move a bit and then I'll try removing those screws and just get the plate out of there and the shaft so I can clean it up yeah it's not moving so I'm gonna leave that on there probably just so getting the ultrasonic and try it after the soaking that looks pretty decent I mean a little bit of junk in the bottom here but it looks pretty good all things considered I'm a jet looks good so I'm just gonna pull the pilot jet this jet is just a push v I was turning it just to make sure kind of free it up it was kind of seized a bit in there and I really lost my good needle nose so this is gonna be a bit of a struggle okay found the good ones Plan B there's a hole here doesn't go all the way through but I'm hoping that you'll catch a few threads and allow me to pull it out so that put up a bit of a fight it would never have come out without using a screw here that's pretty much everything that comes off of here this plate you know deal with it after it's been soaking for a while hopefully it'll free up you overall cleaned up pretty well and I was able to get this out then just wire wheeled all the rust off so I think this will function just fine [Music] [Music] [Music] before putting the carburetor on I need to put this blower housing back and I have since received the recoil so I'm going to assemble that and then put the whole floor housing back on this recoil is not working and from what I can tell the dogs are completely missing the cup you can see that piece of white plastic there that's one of the dogs and you can see it's kind of scraping the cup but it needs to be further in to engage that cup properly and I've been having a lot of trouble finding a parts diagram for this engine I haven't found one yet I ordered this based on the engine type MZ 300 and I've seen a lot of pictures online with this starter recoil for this generator so I went back online and searched a little harder and I did find there is a different recoil on some of the generators that rigid put out with the Yamaha engine and it's a lot shallower it looks actually more like a Subaru recoil unfortunately I can't find that anywhere I don't have the part number so I'm not gonna kill myself right now trying to find that Parkes I don't even know if that this engines gonna start and sound good or the generators gonna make power so for now I'm just gonna take this back off and I will just use a rope around the cup to get this thing started they're working at that broken bolt for a while you know tried vice grips no joy a stud remover no joy that stud is too small for this tool also these bolt extractors too big for that bolt and I've even tried hammering a socket onto there and trying to turn it out no joy for anything you know really I think I need a blowtorch and a nut but I don't have a blowtorch and you know I'm not willing to cut this off and use one of those inserts to twist it out it's most likely that'll snap in there and that'll have hardened steel in there and if it was any other hole I could just drill it out and not worry about threads put a nut in the back but in this case we got stuff right behind here so I can't get a nut back there so what I want to do is just cut this down and then drill it out and retype it finally I get these junky old tires hanging around actually pull them off a generator because the hub is kind of broken it's not supposed to be spinning like that the ball bearings supposed to be doing the work anyway it's not a big deal they're usable for now and this one doesn't look so hot but it doesn't matter we're just testing and this will make it much easier to roll it out and do a test so hopefully they go on the carb should be empty I'm just going to spray a little bit of a starting fluid in there I want to see what it sounds like for a few seconds before committing wasn't really starting with starting fluid it was just puffing a little bit of smoke I did turn the gas on I'm gonna try it again and just note I did turn the governor spring down so if it does start he's probably gonna run a bit slow I hope okay Plan B I'm gonna use the drill what I'm about to do I do not recommend especially if they have a drill that has a break when you let off the trigger regardless it's not very safe so if you do do it it's your own risk [Music] [Music] so that is a no-go the engine will not start not enough compression I think this engines probably done but one less Testament idea when I pull that plug put some oil down the cylinder some motor oil and try starting it if the Rings are shot that should allow it to run for a few seconds it's probably way too much but who knows I actually blew a smoke-ring as you can see still not starting so that tells me it's most likely not the rings it's probably the valves themselves and judging by the way that exhaust valve looked and how it was adjusted there was no clearance there was a lot of carbon buildup around the rod or sorry the valve stem and the seat so most likely we got a burnt valve and it's letting too much compression out it is fixable but you got a figure this machine needs a lot I didn't pay much for it there's supposed to be four parts and you can tell by the date here it's not that old it's about four and a half years old so this thing looks much older I'm not really sure what kind of a life it led but clearly it was not a good one so you know assuming assuming it ran I actually would have to spend a decent amount of money to get this thing complete I found the recoil I found the inch in diagram the recoil alone is $120 the airbox is 50 wheels are at least 40 and the feet are probably 30 you know so we're looking at easily another two hundred two hundred twenty dollars to make this complete plus the bad recoil I already bought for 20 bucks and the generator itself I did spend $70 on it so it's there's really no point in moving forward with getting this to be a viable generator but with that said I'm gonna tear it down so I am gonna start with the head and just take a look at those valves maybe it's something stupid like the valves just need to be lapped but anything more than that and I think we're gonna call it at that point I wanna start breaking this down let me get the tank off just so we can see better what's going on carbs come off blower housing needs to come back off exhaust valve cover and eventually the head [Music] Wow that was quite loose and so is that very unusual for exhaust so real quick before I pull the head off I got it at top dead center on the compression stroke a touch past you know the valves are closed and I remove the spark plug I also put some vice grips on the flywheel because what I want to do is I want to pressurize the cylinder when I do that it's going to want to rotate the engine to bottom dead center and I don't want the valves opening anyway I am pretty sure it's the exhaust valve so yeah let me sit you up on that side and you can actually see it right there and I'm gonna pressurize the cylinder and listen for leaks you know that's a big leak you can actually see some of that wd-40 and oil blowing through there what I did that so that is the problem for sure maybe there's something else going on over here but I didn't really hear much of anything this one was so loud I don't think I would have heard it anyway so we need to deal with that let's get this head off [Music] doesn't look terrible so this might be savable piston and silver actually look pretty good as well so I give this a chance coming back yeah pistons nice and tight and that cylinder so this is good if we can fix that valve I think we'll be in good shape [Music] alfe doesn't look too bad little bit of corrosion on the seat but also not too bad so I think this just needs to be lapped and that we should be good [Laughter] yeah the seat maybe could use a little bit more work but it does look a lot better probably do this a few more times just to make sure I do not know the torque values for this head or the pattern for that matter but I'm going to do a crisscross pattern start with a hundred inch pounds and go up to about 20 foot pounds maybe a little more depending upon how it feels perfect tight just got the blower housing and the carburetor left gonna leave the tank off for now I am gonna skip ahead you've already seen me do that hey I'll see you in a minute outside so the fuel filled up to about there so it's enough to run it hopefully about a minute not sure what's going on here I know the valves are good now although I didn't take the intake apart maybe I should let the valves again other than that I'm kind of I'm not sure what I'm missing here so back here again this is top dead center and that's the position of the magnet and I've been spinning this engine clockwise so by the time it fires it's gonna be right around there and you can see the piston is an inch down and most likely the exhaust will be opening very soon so maybe even I'm turning the inch in the wrong way or maybe when someone was hammering on this they broke the key so I'm gonna pull this Cup off and take a closer look at that yeah that was very loose could be a broken flywheel I hope not a flywheel a broken key well I see the key but I can't tell if it's broken so I got to pull this flywheel off I think that's a broken key so half of its in the flywheel half of its here on the crank just gonna pop that out and maybe I actually don't think I have a key hanging around that'll fit that but let me take a look that's all it is a key fortunately I don't have any I just checked Harbor Freight has a little set of 80 keys for 10 bucks so I'm gonna be making a little trip got the new key seems to be about the same size that fits a little bit looser but that's all the options I had so the key way is on this left side kind of facing down a bit and I put rope in the cylinder so I can't turn it anymore so I'm just gonna put a dab of grease to help hold it in it resets the plan you could probably see I'm losing light and it's starting to drizzle so I have just enough time for one test and just enough fuel and that hose for one test so confidence is high I think this will start okay well the good news is the engine runs it sounds quite good but now we don't have power that was the one reason why I bought this generator was that it supposedly had a good power head bad engine so I'm not sure what's going on with that I'll just bring it back to the garage do a few tests on the stator and rotor the price gonna check this first being that it was sold as the bad engine with a good power head but I got no power out there and usually when there's no power there's not much you can do to get it back so no red flags the wire color is actually very good on the stator no broken ropes so let me get a meter out and do a few quick tests all right so I don't know what the reason should be on this but I'd say usually around point four so I'm gonna test the first leg it's not too rusty and we get nothing and nothing so well I take these wires off and try to test them more direct hopefully in a spot that's not rusted out if they come off 0.6 is pretty good maybe a little high but not bad and the other one let's call that a point five point four that one seems healthier yes all right like 0.5 and 0.6 a little high I mean I would expect it to be well point 5 maybe point 4 so I don't know if that's good or bad I guess we can check the brushes next I have an AVR hanging around that looks like this so I could try swapping that out if need be and just note the red is on the left can tell by the brushes this has seen a fair amount of use they're worn a bit they're not worn out but definitely been used I'm just gonna test the slip rings or sorry the rotor rather from the slip rings expect around 55 yeah 57 is a good reading so the rotor is definitely good the stator I'd say it's slightly high but not ridiculously so and I see no signs of an issue as far as overheating on the stator goes so I would tend to think that the stator and rotor are good maybe it's the AVR or the brushes so I will try swapping those out and do another test old a be our new AVR as you can see they're the same except this one looks a little better so we'll try that one and the new brushes and yeah these actually don't look as worn as I thought I mean these are almost new here on the left and there's not a ton more material okay all the wires are reconnected new AVR new brushes everything looks pretty good other than the aluminum corrosion I did check for continuity of these wires up to the outlets and they're all good at least to the 30 amp circuit that GFCIs are all tripped so these nothing tests good on those GFI outlets and you can't reset them until there's power but I did verify that display screen is wired and independently of those GFCI so that should at least light up regardless I'm gonna put some clips on here and test the voltage directly the next time I started to see what if anything we're getting if it still doesn't power up you know I'll try applying 12 volts to the brushes and see what happens okay it's kind of windy and nastya gonna do a quick test I'm a little suspicious of the stator those ohms are a little high when we subtract out the resistance and my meter brings one of the windings to about 0.5 and the other one 2.3 or 4 which that's a good reading I also tested these blue wires coming out here at the auxilary winding for the exit excitation field and it was about 1 point 5 ohms that supplies the power to the AVR and that was good so the AVR should power up and the rotor should power up I guess we'll find out I guess so overall pretty satisfied with the way this turned out I'm still missing a lot of parts but replacing that AVR is all this thing needed it is now making good power its 126 volts I got it at 61 and a half hearts the meter on the front works although the voltage is reading almost 300 which I'll take a closer look at that but the rest of the display settings seem to be working and if I read it right this has about 1500 hours on it so it did see a fair amount of use before being retired and revived anyway I'm going to order those missing parts and get this thing finished out this has been waiting on my shelf for a Yamaha and this one can definitely use some fresh oil I've come this far so I might as well paint the frame right I have some paint left over from the last rigid I fixed and this stuff is almost a perfect match it's just rust Oleum rustic orange and I've already brushed off all the loose paint and as you can see there was quite a bit of loose paint coming off of this machine so I'm just going to put some paint on it I'm not gonna bore you with that but I'll just turn you back on for the to see the end result two cans of paint later it's looking pretty good you know not perfect but much better than it was before [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] I know it always seems like a few seconds but it's been four weeks I took about two weeks to get this Cup and it is bigger it's the same diameter same shaft size unfortunately it's too long it's the opposite problem this one's two and a half inches and this one's about four inches so I can't use this so what I ended up doing was sucking it up and just by the OEM recoil this was more than the whole generator so it had better fit you'd think they would at least include the Yamaha sticker for the price they paid that's probably extra perfect this is the airbox I got for it it is actually for an mg 360 the next model up and I saw a few posts listing this is compatible with the 300 and the 360 and I also saw a few carburetors that are listed as compatible for both the 300 and the 360 so I thought I'd roll the dice again I got this one which was just listed for the 360 and it didn't quite fit the biggest issue is that these posts are a little bit closer together like maybe a millimeter or two closer together so I did have to elongate these holes just a little bit and now it goes right on the other thing too is that this fuel tank has a vent coming down to the air box and this air box did not have a hole to accommodate that so I did have to add a hole right there but those were the only two modifications I think the rest of this should go on without an issue [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] went on pretty well I'd say this was the biggest problem just squeezing this bolt in here without twisting and turning it too much it's afraid I was gonna break my new box but it's on it's good but how about some feet [Music] all right I couldn't help myself this was bugging me so I'm gonna just pop these screws out pull the plate forward you know cut these tabs off on the inside you can remove this old one and install the new all right since we're in here I do want to take a quick look at this board as we saw earlier the voltage was way off the voltage reading and I mean this board is not available anymore and most likely it's just a bad resistor or a capacitor not seeing anything obvious these chips I don't know if that's corrosion if it's some sort of a potted material but you know I don't there's nothing standing out so yeah I'm not going to worry about this for now but maybe we'll dig into this later it almost looks like someone cared for this but not quite can't quite hide the neglect anyway it's it's looking respectable again it's complete we got feet we've got an air box we got wheels we got a recoil and we got this weather cover for the outlets so I think I think we're good so I want to bring this outside do an extended test you know put it under a moderate load and run it for a while just make sure there's nothing else that I missed on this [Music] pretty happy with the way this turned out I bought this as a parts machine and it is now a viable generator the one thing I did have to adjust was that heat shield apparently I didn't tighten it all the way down and it was rattling quite a bit when I first started it other than that everything else was good power output is good engine speed is good the engine sounds good the only real thing worth noting is just the power output is a little different between the left outlet and the right you know the left is around 123 124 and the right is like 126 127 for a voltage and that's I'm sure due to the difference we saw in the resistance between the two legs and that's not something we can really fix it's just you know this thing is far from new it's got 1500 hours on it and those outputs are those are fine they're acceptable anyway hope this video helps someone thanks for watching

Channel: James Condon

Views: 445,267

Keywords: AVR, Bad AVR, Fix, Fixed, Flywheel Shear Key, Flywheel, Generator, MZ300, No Power Output, No Power, RD905712B, Ridgid 5700 Watt Generator, Ridgid Generator, Seized Engine, Seized, Shear Key, Small Engine, Troubleshooting, Valve Clearance Adjustment, Valve Lapping, Yamaha MZ300, Yamaha

Id: X1wRwMzUL1s

Length: 66min 19sec (3979 seconds)

Published: Thu Feb 27 2020