Simplex steam engine Part 2 - Simplex Dampfmaschine Teil 2

if I come back building the small one cylinder steam engine from aluminum castings in the last part we did the base plate which was a pretty simple part and this time we proceeded on with the a-frame after a-frame already here on my grandma surface plate and to machine it I clamped it against this box parallel this box parallel of course and center a cutout where this flange can sit in so so the these side groups of the casting are resting against the box parallel and that's the reference surface to get it square when we machine up the bottom feet because the first surface and drill the feet then we will put it on a face plate and machine the upper end on the lathe and I hope this all works out as I plan it's not super important but I want this this diameter down here kinder in the center to between these two feet so it's not crooked to one side and that's the reason why were at the surface plate and I have a square here and set the square up here against up here against the feet the foot and then I take one of my scales and I measure from the edge of the square against the flange of my part and I get twenty two point five millimeters keep that in mind twenty two point five I will write it down here 22.5 now we flip over to the other side and set up the square against the foot up here take our scale and measure from the edge of the square against the part and we have 20 through almost 23 millimeters so 23 on this side 22.5 on this side I think that's close enough that's 2.00 to 5 millimeters off center and forecasting that's more than good enough next we'll drop this on the mill and sir face these two feet okay I set up D the Box parallel with the a-frame on the milling machine clamped it down with two bolts and right now I'm in the process of machining down the two feet and what I did I added two screw checks that support the feet from below them because I am due to large overhang I got some harmonics in there but these crude checks I lightly tensioned them they didn't they helped a lot and I'm taking pretty light passes with this 40 millimeter anvil and we're about two millimeter to go yes I said about a millimeter because the top surface work and measure two is a wrong casting so the overall height of this thing will matter late but as now no problem and another five tenths of a millimeter okay I already sent up drilled the position of 40 bolt holes now we're going to open up the holes with a 3.2 millimeter twister that I checked up very short in the ER 16 Chuck get some cutting on and some rpm Oh there we go that's that's it for this setup we handling to deeper this holes very slightly just by hand just give us a light jumper okay let's take out the screw jacks and these are normal screw checks but they have a six millimeter bore on the top area a doll pen cam foot and dull pen has a around the top and this gives a nice point support for rough surfaces like this casting and you Bessie clamp there we have it we have bottom surface it's nice and square to the other 2d to the piece okay now we need a way to hold this a frame on the lathe and for that matter I don't have a face plate for this leaf but I have these these are sacrificial face plates that I can check in the life like a sub plate and as you can see there are already some holes in it and we will drill four new holes in this piece and tuck this up in the lathe and turn this upper area here so it's good to mooing machine punch in those four holes and put it on the lathe okay I just drilled 43 mm for the three millimeter tap now we're going to tap these holes and go over your life you I have to face plate in the ritual I indicated so it runs true on the diameter and I took every light skin pass on faith so this is also true and now we can take our a frame and screw it on onto these threaded holes that we just drilled and tapped into it this will be good enough we will very carefully faceoff dissent the end center drill it and put a center on there then we will skim this outer diameter or machine it to final diameter and then we'll set up the steady rest so a setup gets way more safe right now I'm not and that was the cover of my lamp over the lathe okay okay we will take a very careful faith cut until we can get a center or or a center grill proper Center that's the right term ah okay now descent area is flat and we can get a proper center room there okay now with the live Center of course he set up this very safe no more worries that it might come loose now we can machine this outer diameter okay you were at the bench and this is the lathe tool I was using n s you can see there is a built up edge and will knock that off and to rehome now I like to use these triangular grinding stones into a little chest work this surface chip surface or the top surface of the lathe tool and I like to do this by holding the tool in the hand and holding the stone in the hand and you feel when they align you can tip it in position and then when you move the stone the tool the tool bit in your left hand will follow the motion of the stone so you don't run around over the edge you just want to flatten the top surface and then you can also get the front surface the light touch and the side rake also slightly it doesn't need much you want just the area where it's cutting to be shiny no need to polish the whole whole surface i grind these tools on the outer diameter of the grinding wheel and that gives it a hollow in the center you can see that the grinding stone my hand stone only touches on the edges and that's perfectly fine and to finish it we can touch up the radii too now we have a perfectly - back in service and yes there is discoloration from grinding also on this side the trick with high-speed stealers you can not soft knit on the grinder if it turns blue let it get blue to soft and high speed steel cobalt it's is almost impossible by heating it you can even heat them red-hot bend them and let them cool down on the air that will still be hard as before so I don't care about letting them get blue on the on the grinder the the the old saying that you shouldn't let the tool get colors when you grind it this in my mind out of the days when people are still using normal carbon tool steel for leaf bits those lose their hardness in a second but high speed steel with cobalt super tough can't you can almost not to take the hardness out of it okay back at the lathe clean out the tool post we don't clamp on some crap and get the tool bit back in and I still have not made more screws for these two posts that's still to come and it's still the nature of the cast-aluminum that it's always a bit rough but we're getting there we'll take another measurement 50.5 and I will check that with the micrometer let's check it with the 50 to 75 millimeter mic and we have 50.50 0.55 okay last pass I change to a brace carbide tool with kind of big radii for finishing and I increase the speed also and as you can see the stool leashed quite a nice finish and let's check the diameter one last time that's what I like 50.0 or it's it's just 50 dead not zone okay right now I'm just hogging away most of the material up here because this step setup is the most rigid with the Life Center I can take quite a heavy cut when I change over to the steady rest it will be still pretty stable but live Center is superior I'm just hogging away I'm true to a layout line so I get my overall height the overall height of this a-frame should be hundred and thirty no Mia and I ha get 240 so I have still some material to finish it and I take a two-millimeter past okay this is one of the rare occasions where I can use my neat Helius depth mic either I rarely use it I don't have really much use for that I do mostly small parts and now I can measure over height from the upper flange against the feet of the a-frame and this is point nine six millimeters one hundred and 139 now one hundred and thirty eight point nine six that should be so sore point nine six millimeters have to go Christy dial in here is the dial indicator of my pet slide I will dial in point five millimeters for first path or weight let's do point seven millimeters and then do a finishing pass okay and this is the finishing pass now we should be at 138 millimeters okay now we machine the left side of this flange and I brought the the tool press around so I can get in with this tool I found in my collection this is a straight tool with a nice nose radius and with nose radii we'll create a nice intersection between the machine area and the casting itself so we don't have a sharp corner there you might be able to see this crud line here that's where we have to machine to to the final thickness of this flange will be five millimeters okay touched off on the Albert I am and I can face in and of course the two big radii tends to cheddar slightly see some oil helps with the cheddar okay let's jump for these edges and also chamfered transition from the turned part to the raw casting just give it some turrets okay I set up the steady rest stay rest I have has bronze fingers which I prefer over the role of style and I have them only very very very light lightly touching the machined surface here most of the forces are still taken by the four screws that hold the piece to the faceplate I already faced faced away the small knob there with center drill and now we're going to take a center drill Center it drill it and bore or remit I've to check if I have a real not big enough that would make fast work but if not we will bore it okay let's do the center drilling and now we change to a 10 millimeter drill bit okay that we go this is one of those free food drills to open up holes they don't have a they don't cut on the center so you can't drill into solid material you always have to have a pilot hole normally these are used to hope map holes in precast holes in castings but the work also for tasks like this very well with these reef flutes they're runway more subtle than a two-foot drill bit when open EEMA opening up holes and reduce to speak of it and we add some oil to the study rest and have a go and as you hear these cuts super smooth and worse as a year the industrial but really around super smooth if you can get your hands on these three food grills to open up holes if you do a lot of drilling under life and have to open up holes these are the way to go they are not super expensive and you can and I hold the edge pretty long as they have one more cutting-edge than the average true but and this is how they look on the front as you can see no scent of cutting okay this is my boring setup this is a long twelve millimeter boring bar with the carbide tool bit in front here and it's extended out quite a lot and we will see how this works in aluminum we might get away with that much overhang and steel this would be hopeless but aluminum at flex proves so let's give it a try of course I did already a shallow test pass to see how it works and it didn't sing the song of death so maybe this is one millimeter 0.5 millimeter depth of cut one millimeter diameter and s can hear I don't get any harmonics I think that you can kind of increase the speed slightly let's work this worked reasonably well and turn to make sure don't hit anything we have a first pass with boring bar and we have quite a lot of tricks in there that it works so we can proceed for it to 18 millimeters right now we are at 17.25 that's point five to go okay let's talk briefly about internal measurement there are some different ways of internal measurement of bores there are the snap gauges that are seen a lot in outside of Germany in Germany almost no one uses these I see a lot of the folks in the u.s. use them and have very nice results with them but I don't have them and I think I will not get them I have other ways to measure in plumber's then there are three point internal mics and in my mind that's the most precise way to measure internal bore but they are horrible expensive a single internal mic three-point costs about 200 to 500 bucks and it has only a range of one to two about one or two millimeters depending on the size of the micrometer and there are the two-point internal mics these are useful they have a big range they go from five to up to I think 55 millimeters but you can't go or deep into a bore so for deep pores useless but still good to have around and then what's very common with the guys that do work on motors boring saloons and stuff like that are these internal measuring tools I don't know how they are called in in English you have a dial indicator up here you can't use a 100 millimeter or a 1000 8 indicator and down here when you insert them in a bore you get a reading on the dial indicator up there there are different tips for different diameters you have to exchange them and then you have to set your then you have to calibrate this tool normally you would use skate rings but gate rings are expensive and there is another way to do it using a mic I want to measure a 18 millimeter bore so we use a gauge block stack of 18 millimeters make sure they are clean ring them together and you take your mic and you just close the mic down onto the gauge blocks then you lock it now we have exactly 18 millimeters between the anvils of the mic and now we can use this to calibrate our internal measuring tool and you have to seek the high spot and then set the dial indicator to zero and as you can see it's little bit fiddly when you work around the camera you can see that my high spot is already 0 as I have already calibrated it and that way now we can measure the bore I didn't make this up with the mics me tutorial describes this practice also in the manual of their - this one is made by Schwank made in Germany and this is super nice tool you can read the boxes be bit beat up but it's still precise and reliable tool the dial indicator is a new one that's a rebrand I don't know who makes this it might be a me tutorial one or not but the tool is very nice and this is the way to go if you have to measure a deep internal bore and be where precise and you want an accurate reading without to have having to transfer the measurement from your snap gauge or telescope gauge to a mic because that also introduces an error so let's go to the lathe and take a measurement okay you take your tool into the bore and then you pandal it around and also look for a high spot and here is 0 10 20 22 so it's 18 millimeters - 2200 so we are at 17 point 7 8 millimeters up here and let's measure down here for that we just go down go down go down search the high spot and we have 21 that's 17 point seven nine yeah that's not too bad one hundredths of a millimeter conical but that might be due to the tool be long deflection of the long operating tool but as you can see that this is a very fast way to measure the only problem with this that you have to calibrate it for each use but apart from that very useful so we need to go another point to one millimeters okay I took another pass a final pass with the barn barn now I can take another measurement and as you can see up here in the dial indicator we are 18 yeah 18 plus minus one hundredths of a millimeter and down here on the end of the bore yeah that's also pretty much zero or some the needless is a bit jumpy because some of the tool marks in there but the surface finish in the bore is also pretty good and a nice thing on a steam engine small scale dimension it will run in and where in and after some use all the two marks will be gone and the bull run super smooth okay I machine the and frontiers as a recess one millimeter deep that will either align the cylinder on the a-frame I machine that off-camera it's just boring boring a stepped almost like a counter think that's all the turning work that to do on the a-frame now we can tear down the set up let's take the set it apart yeah that looks nice son I'm pretty happy how this came out and I'm unlock it from the chuck there we go that's the a-frame after turning doesn't look too shabby in my mind okay I drilled the bolt pattern up here off camera I just clamp the the a-frame to the machines table aligned it we are the parallels that stand in the t-slot centered on it using the Dallas indicator them drilled the bolt pattern using the Dro and when you look closely you see that I almost messed up there are a few witness marks where I sent a drilled and then I realized that my bolt pattern is wrong the drawing calls for a 8 hole poked but eight hole bolt pattern that's turned by 22 and a half degree and I entered that into the dro but I didn't change the end angle ISAT start angle at 22.5 and end angle at 360 so the bolt pattern came out totally wrong in fact the end angle needs to be 360 plus the 22.5 but yeah I didn't realize that at the moment and yeah that's the reason why I have some small marks from the center drill up here but there will be a paper gasket later so yeah doesn't matter but still it's a bummer yeah and right now we are setting up the rotary table to mill out the to cross hat guide slots it will be one on this side and one on this side and I like to set up parts on the rotary table over at the bench where it can lay it down I can set up my dial indicator and do the work as good as I want it to be and all you have to set up two more clamps and we're good to go there we go let's go around retighten them all and we don't need to crank down like crazy on these just not tighten them down in our normal matter and let's check the run out yeah it moved slightly we're at two hundredths of a millimeter but that's still okay for this purpose that's less than one thousandth of an inch so yeah okay I set up the rotary table on the milling machine standing position so the a-frame is level and now I need to rotate it in a way that that it's level in that direction because of appearance and I do this I take a parallel and drop it on to these two ribs of the casting which are pretty much in line then I swing my doll test indicator around and swing over the parallel like this and comparing front to back and now you can see how much difference I get from front to back it's about here it's point oh five and back here it's 0.42 and now I can rotate crank the rotary table and adjust it this is not a precision setup so this is more than good enough this is about yeah two hundredths of a millimeter so now we can lock the table the rotary table in position so it doesn't rotate anymore okay I set up to hog out the slot with a six millimeter roughing end mill I drilled both end positions of the slot and I have society6 my roughing and million here so we will rough out the slot to six movement and then we will later come back with an eight we'll meet at end mill and do some finishing that's a bit slow okay we hocked out the first slot I will finish it and we will turn the part around 180 degrees and to the other slot I could also reach through with a very long end about this I mean a cutting depth of 25 millimeters or something like that and now I can turn it around that's the reason why I have it on the rotary table and not just clamped up on a angle plate okay I finished the D cross had slots in this a frame off-camera you saw me roughing them and then I came back with an eight millimeter finishing ant mill plunge down and just went through in one pass they came out pretty good there are only two access the cross head these are not actual cross head guides and that's all the machining that has to be done to the a frame now we can tear down set up and hopefully we don't drop everything on our machines table but to protect the roughing table we can place a piece of plywood so if something goes saw came out pretty good I'm I'm happy even with you look slightly mishap up here in the bolt pattern looks good to me so I think that's it for this episode this might get pretty long so hope you enjoyed thank you for watching and see you next time

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 34,959

Rating: 4.969697 out of 5

Keywords: steam engine, dampfmaschine, fräsmaschine, optimum mb4, rf45, zx7045, boring, ausdrehen, ausspindeln, dial bore gage, schwenk

Id: JxWlEn3Gb1w

Length: 46min 12sec (2772 seconds)

Published: Sun Oct 04 2015