Making a straight edge blank Part 1/2

welcome back to his shop today we have another small project a friend of mine wants to scrape the ways of his small Chinese lady a slave almost a size like mine a it's about a 9 by 20 but he doesn't have a straight edge for touching the or for high spotting waist so yes me if I could machine and one on the shaper and he sent me this piece of continuous cast cast iron ore I think Dora bar is a manufacturer's name for that stuff it met machined pretty nice and it's pretty stable once machine so we're going to use this and you make me up a little drawing we're square the block up all around and cut this this babble with 45 degrees onto it s ways have sixty degrees angle but with the 45 degrees on the bevel you will be able to do this sixty degrees and econ and you also come in 55 degree ways we're going to cut this to length from the bandsaw square it up and cut the bevel and going to put threads on the end so you can screw in two handles Oh you okay I set the shaper to about 290 million or stroke and hand up a piece of device it's not clamped down that I have again my breast shims to protecting protect device from the rough cast surface of the material and it's resting on two parallels we're going to take a first pass to clean up the surface okay got the first side rough out he finishes not to that this continuous cast iron gives a pretty good finish and machines write nicely he saw me running the a coupe vacuum cleaner a few times I do this because of the cast scale I don't want the want it all over the machine and also the cast iron dust I want to get rid of it so I'm just using you reckon clean instead of blowing it off or using any brush and having all over the floor and that's also the reason why I'm using the pull-up clapper box or one of the reasons to keep the chips from flying all over my shop and also the cut with this flat box is way more stable okay turn the piece around and let the Machine surface rest again my fixed show on the other side I have again my brass shim to protect my porch all from the rust and we're going to take another cut I got all four sides cleaned up the Karnas have still the mill scale or casting scale but it's kind of squared up in parallel for the application as a straightedge we only need normally we only need two faces flat and on this desired angle to each other but just for fun I want it all around to be square and parallel and the same thickness and ever spot just because I don't like to do a half-assed job so let's change over to the finishing or shear bit and get this thing square okay here is my shear bit that with the big radii and the heavily skewed cutting edge and this is what we're going to use for the pretty finishing but it it needs a minor touch-up with a stone just going to hone the edge very lightly using a carborundum stone and just only ash very lightly okay refresh the second of the narrow size and with the sheer wit we got an incredible fine finish and you can see the chips we're getting these are real small curly chips not just dust like you normally would expect from cast iron and that's because of the geometry of this shear bit due to D heavy skewed cutting edge it it it really produces a nice curly chip even in a brittle material like this this would even work in brass you would get nice stringy cut you cleaned up all four sides with the shear bit and and check the thickness on all four corners and line between 23.6 on these of cornice and 23.62 these two corners so we are parallel within two hundredths of a millimeter and for non absolutely non-criticals application that's perfectly fine it wouldn't even matter if the surface wouldn't be on that would be on machined but my personal OCD doesn't allow me bet so I'm going with some medium accuracy for this operation now we're going to check for the edges to get rid of the mill scale okay for chamfering the depart we have to change the clapper box over to the push type clapper box and to show you this is pretty simple and fast process remove this top nut and go in here with an L key strudel remove the clapper box clean up the clean the mating surfaces pull out your push type clapper box clean that also for cleaning machine surfaces that going to mate prefer my bare hand over a rag that way you also feel if there is a burr or or some material embedded into the surfaces I don't like the practice of stoning every surface every time you mount it that way you can alter actors the author of a surface pretty fast so I don't like to steal my mission tables every time I drop the lights on or anything by going to use to the students chattering bit okay I changed the plan and I'm cutting deep battle before I finish up the the ends and cut these rats into the engravings so now I have it set up on the table with two with my two shop made one two three blocks clamped down with two clamps put some breaths under it to protect us machine surfaces and I ran the indicator along the edge to alliance with the machine we're making good progress in cutting deep bevel I'm fitting down by hand and for every step I go in about 1.5 millimeter that means I take a 1.5 mil mid-white cut and with every stroke I take about one tenth of a millimeter in and depth okay I finish cutting the bevel and I tear down the server and now you can see the part in cross-section next I'm going to chamfer this edge lightly to get rid of the excess casting scale then we can face off the ends cut our sweats for the handles and do our engraving and then we're done okay and I just broke the edge of the straightedge to get rid of Tamila scale and now to bust the myth of the stable and non-moving cast iron after shaping the bevel on this straightedge it made a nice bow and I get a movement of plus minus two hundredths of a millimeter on here so this piece makes a nice bow in that direction gasps aaron has stresses in it like every other material and if you machine the material it will move on you there is nothing to it you can stress relieve it by putting it in an oven and you can cut down on the stresses but you can't get rid of all these dresses there will always be remaining stresses in every material you're using so you have to deal with it and in that case I will have to recut the bottom surface and it will take only a very light pass on the bottom so the stresses in the part stay equal and my battle edge over here my knife my bevel surface will not warp in the other direction and when doing something like this you have to go down from roughing then you have to remand you're releasing most of the tension and then you have going down take a finish path release the tension take another finish pass then much of it comes down to the material the geometry of the part a long skinny part is way more prone to warping due to stresses than a massive block or a short piece of round material that's unlikely to warp on the under the internal stresses so yeah keep keep that in mind when you machine something cultural material for example has an incredible amount of interest stresses due to the cold drawing and when you machine one side of a flat bar of cold-rolled mild steel it will go banana on you and Catherine's way better it's it's way more stable but it will move also so let's go over to a shaper and fix this okay I decided to not go back to the shaper and do it with the power scraper okay first of all we're going to clean the granite I'm just using a household cleaner for that application something like a real Oakley now or or even alcohol works pretty good for that application but I used to have D also clean and a shop already and this is what I'm going to use okay this will not be a scraping tutorial I'm just going to show you how I do this using the dyke my spot blue and for applying the color to stone I'm going for a two step process first I'm spreading it out in an unused area making it even then rolling my area I'm going to use and you don't need crazy much of that stuff just a little abadeer roll it out and I'm using one of these rollers you get at the art store I don't know what they are really cool but they were pretty good for blind blue and yeah as you can see I'm applying the color pretty heavy here because we're really roughing this is for only a roughing process so I'm doing pretty hard on the color and now for touching off we're going to take our work piece and we're just going to touch it off very light pressure on top and short movement my little experience when you apply too much pressure and you go crazy on the surface plate of the movement the the image you get on this side is not the real image it gets let's get messed up and as you can see we have two two areas that they dope carrying the part or Bering okay this is my rents power ship scraper it's it's almost like the well-known biax machines only that it's made by REMS I got this machine almost new for a bargain and yeah it it takes the movement of hand scraping this beat is adjustable and also you can adjust the stroke from I think 20 millimeters down to zero for fine fine scraping but today we're just roughing rough scraping okay and here we have our straight edge I put it in the vise and I laid out or mapped up to high areas you don't want just remove the paint you really want to get away some material and I honed the edge of my scraper blade and are going to to do a first pass and that's way too low stroking or stroke for increasing the stroke you put this a small wrench in here turn it that's more like roughing but still a bit short on the stroke length and as you can see I'm removing quite a lot of material bata scraper scraping is sometimes way faster than filing and you rock scraping produces a lot of bird so you need to stone burst down before you touch up to surface again you don't need to go crazy buff the stone just clean off the high spots okay we're just respring the color I'm not taking new color up with the roll I'm just spreading out the XD the color that's already there now of course we got a pretty horrible image on you touch off but it's already not anymore being in the center now we got this large area in this large area and some of the minor high spots here I think we will get this to beer in about five roughing paths okay I always like to lay out where I'm going to scrape especially when I'm roughing okay second pause again verse stoning very lightly let's touch it off and as you can see it starts the beer out here and out here next this is the third pass of course you're alternating you're scraping direction every time you do new pass to get somewhat of an even picture okay I was not way off this is past number eight and we're bearing almost on the whole surface now we can start to refine it slightly I'm going to decrease the stroke on the scraper and start to work a bit more refined you have to be very careful when you're coming up to an ad shoot kind of have to tilt the blade in and be aware that doesn't wrap the edge just to be clear this is still in the extremely rough phase of scraping but just as you can see now we get a more or less even pattern there is a slight hollow there is a bit of a hollow and there it's this is a bit bit hard to read because I'm using pretty much of the high spot blue and that makes this area a bit yeah not sure about it but we're getting there we go for number nine okay I'm down at 20 pulses and sir face got somewhat fine it looks like a scrape surface not like a butchered surface anymore and if we hold a straight edge on there it's it's pretty darn straight and we get a it's hard to capture that with the camera we get a pretty even bearing surface okay that just passed 22 I change to a narrower blade and I also reduce the stroke okay I'll leave work the high spots and I try to get all of them my 25th pause and we're pretty we're getting to a more or less fine finish okay after the last off I did a touch up and I get a pretty pretty good surface and it's flat it's not bearing very evenly it's it's a bit hollow here but it's a very good bearing here and here at first I didn't plan this is a two-part video but this is pretty getting pretty long and I'll make at least a two part we do on this maybe even three parts so I will end right here you have seen me machining the straight edge and starting to scrape it next time we will finish the surface and start on the bevel surface I hope this is interesting for you and let me know in the comments what you think as a disclaimer I'm absolutely no professional scraper own machinery builder this is all self-taught and I have seen or in person I have I got shown some of the scraping by mr. Miller Nick down in Munich he showed me some stuff but most of it is learning by doing and yeah that's that's how I do it a real machine rebuild or scraper might wave his hands or uh over his head but I get results that I can use and that's fine for me so yeah that's how I do it anyway thank you for watching and see you next time

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 180,488

Keywords: tuschierlineal, tuschierprisma, shaper, schaben, biax, renz, gack he20, stoßmaschine, hobel, straight edge, scraping, powerscraper, flachschaben

Id: jG5mOnjrd2Q

Length: 35min 0sec (2100 seconds)

Published: Fri Apr 17 2015