Making small sine bars Part 1 - Herstellung kleiner Sinuslineale Teil 1

Hey welcome back to a shop why not make some sine bars I need a small sign bar that fits into my wife and at the time I make one I can make five or six because most most of it is set-up time in machining time I have a drawing of the sign bar here it's pretty standard to sign to 10 millimeter rollers hardened and ground not sure maybe we'll use drill bushings because they are already hardening ground or we will make some rollers from Grove rot and Harden and grind them and body will be made of this piece of 123 12 tool steel pre hardened tool steel and on the matter of the pre hardened I used that stuff a lot it's an it's called pre hardened but it's only about 33 Rockwell C hard so when you take a file it still you still can file it with normal bench file it's not glass hard it's free machining it cups really nice it's very stable it doesn't move a lot when you take out huge chunks of it and yet overall a very nice material and it's a neat material not everybody uses it so I like it very much normally this is a tool steel for mold making it can be polished very well it's very good to machine Italy's good surface finish and yeah it's tough it's tough material but it's not very hard on the tools so that's what I use for most of my tools and jigs and stuff like that that I make for my myself and this time we make sine bars the standard design is that you have one card here for a roller and one cut out here that has a 45 or more degree incline on it the incline is there so when you set it up at say 45 degree and you want you have your base level down here say this is level and you want to set your gauge block stack here that you have some clearance over here so it don't hit the sine bar with your gauge block that's the reason for this cut out it would be easier if we machined the step in from both sides like this then we could just measure that the width of the step with Mike's but then we get into client problems over here with the gate flux stack up and that's not good but there is another way we can measure this very precisely and I will show that to you when we are ready to machine this I squared up block on three surfaces one of the big flat surfaces and two long sides so I can hold it on shaper more easy I could have squared up the block on the shaper too but the milling machine is just faster and yeah it's faster so okay I changed my mind and we're going to hog away most of the material on the milling machine because a six millimeter roughing in it was way faster than the shaper I just laid out the lines I put some back on layout blue on there and I laid out the lines with the height gauge so we can cut to the lines and leave about point point two millimeters or something like that on there so we can finish it on the shaper for the better surface okay I roughed up these a slot and the slope I cut the slope just by its 45-degree and I just stepped over one millimeter and went down one millimeter and that gave me a very rough slope but majority of the material got removed so work on the shaper will go very fast okay right now they're set up in the shaper to do to finish cuts on the contour of the sign bar profile first we will surface this down number will cut the lower bottom of the of these two steps and then we will machine most important surface which is the left side of those two those two cutouts which will define the position of the rollers of the sign okay i right now in the process finish cutting the surface and I'm using a shear tool which I showed in my shaco video that one with big cutting radius and enormous rake and just to show you the difference in finish this side is cut with a normal straight cutting tool or shaper tool this one will small nose radius and the surface is cut with the shear bit and yeah you can even hear the difference but when I use my scribe a scratch across this surface sounds really rough when I do the same here nothing and we even get some reflection in the surface you see the brass scribe in there slightly reflecting and the surface finish is really good and that's nothing to be ashamed about when you see the trips they are nice the chips are nicely curled up and that's an indicator for a good running cut and a well cutting tool of course so let's continue okay I set up a parting tool from the lathe a high speed steel i ground this myself to cut this shoulder first of all go down nine nine millimeters and then I will traverse out to finish the bottom surface I have my dial indicator set up over here to help me with the depth and we're good to go and I will feed the table up instead of feeding the cross light down or the top slide because the table movement is always square the top slide up here can be tilted and it's pretty sure out of tram okay we cut the vertical wall and I decided not to out feet I will cut the bottom of both the slots and once in one depth setting so they are exactly at the same height that's that are the only two important things from this edge to this edge we need exactly fifty millimeters and these two surfaces need to be exactly at the same height but apart from that we can do whatever we want okay we cut both of the vertical walls and I left on the trail on this side but as these are - two faces that are facing in the same direction we cannot just measure them but mic doesn't work the easiest way to measure it is to pull out this reference surface and we will use this there's a well used old gauge block and I checked that it's still flat and accurate enough for this purpose in fact it just needs to be flat and clean and we will get it against the vertical wall here and take a small clamp and clamped the gauge block against the surface and now see what we did we extended the surface and change the orientation now we can measure from this side against the surface now we can take a a second gauge block this is one of my good gauge blocks and we'll press it against the surface and then we can measure this width and the the dimension we measure - the thickness of this gauge block three millimeter will be the distance from the surface to the surface it's yeah it's not the easiest way to do it but I think that way we get an accurate or salt and this might get a bit strange to measure because I have to hold the gauge block from lean position and hold the mic at the same time and do ting measurement at the same time I need the third hand right now okay this is 5050 something - what wait let's do an idiot check before we mess it up we get fifty two point seven with the calipers and we get 52.7 for with the mic and I'm repeating the measurement a few times just to make sure we don't get an error in there because it's pretty easy to over tighten the the thimble and move the skate block slightly but when I take the measurement and I don't look at the at the dial I always end at 52 point seven four so now you know we want 53-52 point seven four we need point two six millimeters to go over in that direction yes and a setup the dial indicator on the cross Traverse so it can move over exactly 0.26 millimeters there we go there we go okay you saw me take the second cut and let's take a final measurement I have a security second gauge block with a big bass 80 ampere because the measurement was not very reliable and yes I put some brass shim between tenth clamp and the gauge block so it should read now fifty plus three so take a measurement 53 point maybe five thousandth of a millimeter so that's perfectly fine I would be happy with plus/minus one hundredth of a millimeter because that's only a sine bar for a milling machine I would not use it on surface grinder but for a milling machine that's way more than needed okay I got the cutouts finished and I also finished this sloped surface here I just ran a tool down 45 degree with top slide now we're going to take it out of the wife cleaning it and have a look okay now we have this profile which already starts to look like a sign or if we take two dolphins with ten millimeter diameter which will read use as a stand-in for rollers it is a sine bar pretty pretty wide sine bar of course but it is one and you should make a product out of this sine bar stock just cut off how much you need we have the underside with the profile you're finished but these this outer surface here and here is not finished and I want them to be square to the rest of the profile so I can have a fence on the back here to align smaller pieces so now we're going back on the shape of you're going to clamp it like this and the Wyss we're going to align the inside of the slot square with the or level with the shaper and take a light skin cut off the surface this is only rough meld so we have to do something to it anyway same on the other side we're not going to skim cut this surface because we will do that when we're finished we will do each individual sign bar later oops okay we start with this side just set it and Weiss make sure the fixed jaw is clean then we tighten the Weiss lightly onto the work piece we're not reaching down on it and now we're going to run an indicator along the inner edge here to see and to adjust it for squareness for that we have to crank down the table take our indicator let's see can reach down here and we are reading the inside and we have zero novel move to the front and we're one hundredths of a millimeter that little reading the back side so okay this looks good I'm dumb check it again five five yeah also five should be good as this will later be only 12 millimeters wide this is not super critical right now within one hundredth of a moment this is perfectly fine ever going to use the high rake big radius shear tool again as always one of my preferred tools on this mission okay we're back at the milling machine I sir faced both and surfaces off the sign bars on the shaper and now we're going to surf face this side and which will later be the side of a finished sign bar we will mill the sites or face then we cut off a slice then we will meal the created saw and surface on the big piece again Soph another slice so we end off so we end up with six individual sign bars which are all machine on one side and I do this side it's easier to clamp it that way when I have to big piece of material holding on to it and then the smaller ones can be clamped against a stop and also be side milled as for surface tension and I'm using a nice coated six foot carbide end mill Brent you ebay and mill this will probably be a sixty buck end mill so yeah not the cheeks optional okay we're running it at thousand rpm and we're hand feeding you saw me climb mil go back and then do a spring pass I took the spring cast get any how any flex in the end mill which you get or flex of the machine which you also always get every machine flexible in some way even a hundred ton horizontal machining centers flexible in some way again physics don't care about the cost of a tool neither Scotty or machine tool builders nor machine tooling manufacturers can bend the laws of physics so yeah okay I already cut down the first of the sine bars just camped in a bandsaw and sliced off piece and we only need to mount the rollers and we have a complete sine bar and machine of course the other side but apart from that there's a Sun bar let's cut the next one I can cut always two before I have to go back to the milling machine because the final bell the raw material has two sides and i milled both sides square before coming up and you can see that I have some flat stock here to extend the wise out very close to the bandsaw blade otherwise it would be impossible to clamp the part it would be nice to have such a knob such a nice small bandsaw pallet as outside screwball Chuck showed he had a small steel plate or aluminum plate with a fence in the back and some tapped hole where it can clamp parts for bandsaw with strap clamps and I will build something like this a friend of mine just drilled and tapped holds into the base of spatha also very neat solution so Clapton make sure yeah great MA a helot wanted to hell it with the pliers so it doesn't drop down on the floor so it doesn't get dinged up but the moment I the bands are cuts through I released to change my grip on it and yeah you saw it but nothing happened the Portland at all understand which has a plastic sheet on it some polycarbonate well here we go another slice of sign ball now we can go back to the milling machine resurface the new faces and go back to the bandsaw do it again until we have no material left okay I've lost the last piece of the sign bar stock which I kept twisting half to make the last two so I got six sign bar blanks out of this piece of material okay now we go six sign bar blanks all machined all over except for one surface and the top surface which will be the reference surface needs of course to be machined anyway because this is only rough Milt okay I think we should come to an end for this episode in an axe episode we will drill and tap the holes for tea to hold the rollers in place and with a machine the second side flat we need to drill the holes for the side fence or to build this against something like against an angle plate and we will drill tap300 as the re and for a small fence so when you have it at an angle part stunts don't slip off so we have a fence on the end yeah hope you enjoyed hope hope this is interesting thank you for watching and I'll be back you

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 55,960

Rating: 4.9670167 out of 5

Keywords: sine bar, sinebar, sinuslineal, winkelmesser, stoßmaschine, feinhobel, shaper, gack, gack he20, optimum mb4, opti mb4, f45, rf45, kurzhobel

Id: E-3T3GrIImE

Length: 29min 31sec (1771 seconds)

Published: Mon Feb 15 2016