Shoptalk #15 / 11-2017

[Music] hey welcome back this is a shop Talk number something for November 2017 I just wanted to give you a quick update while I'm up to in the shop and a few little things here and there so let's go so one topic that comes up quite often is I get asks why do we have so much more steeper to tooling and why do you use it instead of a large taper the simple answer is I use it because I have it mm-hmm I had a lot of more sipper to tooling from my last milling machine and also the tail stock of my leaf is more steeper too but my new milling machine has a more steeper for in the spindle which is one of these tools here there's a more state before as you can see this is quite a massive taper it's about as richer than the solid as a number 30 steep angle taper which you will find in something like a Robo drill or a small VMC Fanny other make so this is a relatively large and robust taper compared to the more steeper - which looks a bit stinky but I mostly use relatively small tooling there's a 10 millimeter no this is about largest end mill I use on a regular basis and that's something that I can do with Morse taper - without a problem more say / - is cheap it's relatively short so I do not have to crank the head of the mill up so far to get my tools out compare it's about twice the length almost twice the length that you need to retract the head of the mill to get a mercy before out instead of more simple - they are light fast and easy to handle I can machine them on my equipment the mercy before is on the on the edge of what I can machine on my life without having to set over the the tailstock the mercy virtue I can cut with the compound and they have a lot of tooling for it that's the other reason I have my good Albrecht truck sits on a mercy / - shank have a number of small colored chucks your 16 I have three or four your 11 chucks then I can just set up with a tool and change out very fast of some Weldon and mill holders and of course I have mercy for two Kaulitz which I use very much I made a number of arbors for slitting saw shell Mills gear callus form covers all that stuff all SHOP made and also a fly cutter this is a carbide fly cutter just yeah it doesn't get more basic than this for a fly cutter and of course the beautiful will help you PA one boring yet this is also more simple one yeah more thick but - so yeah that's my reasoning behind the mercy of tooling it's stiff enough for the work I do it's liked I can make them myself in the shop Marcie before I could do it but would be way more effort than laying more material to use the overseas stuff and more super true is very cheap even the good quality stuff from bees on which is a Polish company making tooling is very affordable the thing about more cheaper is if you over crank the draw bore you have our time to get them out of spindle so do not over crank them it with with solid shank to Li like a Arbor or call it Chuck you do not really need to tighten the draw ball very much just a little bit with D it's another thing with the call-outs these need a little bit more torque otherwise you will get into the danger of sucking the tool I love to call it if you're doing heavy roughing but that's another topic yeah that's more super to tooling I like it it's it's compact it's light that's fast to change and yes I have really a lot of more cheaper to tooling all the stuff here on the right side is more steeper to all the arbors and centers and stuff like that all the more steeper - and of course my tool carousel on the mill all more super true up here and down here all the more steeper to call us so yes while we're at the matter of tooling let's talk about the annular cutters that I show them last video the question that comes up quite often is what I do for holding them in the machines and the answer is I made a holder this is Morse taper - again we're stupid - holder I took a blank more super - Arbor with a stuffed end which was not really self there are still quite tough and yeah they're tough it's better to use carbide - mission done and it's one of the blanks with a drawbar thread on the end so I can use them in the mill this is true in tank so I can use it in the leaf and get it out again it's board - 19 point oh five which is I guess requires of an inch relatively close fit on the shank and the foolish angle that of an annular cutter surprisingly - but this diamond Iranian hula crevice has quite a bit of Tolerance I measured a few of them and they range from 19 - 19 point 1 millimeters so yeah it's not a super high precision danger they have two flats machine onto them ground 90 degrees apart and that's what holds them in the holder two set screws with a flat head a flat tip that is flat on the end and they press against those two flats do not use cheese grate set screws use really high quality ones tempered otherwise you will strip out the threads in no time if you're in the part of the world that's using Imperial you can use a 3/4 inch collet I guess like a r8 call it street quarter of an inch and clamp directly on the shaft of the cutter but in in Europe that's of course not common I wouldn't hold it in an ER style collet because the shank is very short and your collards need a minimum length of engagement in the collet you need to fill at least 2/3 of an ER collet and ER 30 second 32 which is the which would be the smallest aesthetic he could use to hold a 19 millimeter shank is a relatively large collet and you would not be able to get enough gripping length here so you can use either a pull type comet-like r8 or mer steeper 3 up or 5c if you have a weird milling machine with 5c on the spindle don't know if that exists or you can use a weld-on type holder which I would prefer because if this spins in your collar the collar does not have it wouldn't do any good to it I would recommend this style of holder you can buy them you can get even get them with screw Coulomb then they have a ring as a friction ring with a barbed fitting to get a hose who have coolant in and you can't coolant through the surly cover which would be rough quite nice but ever elk is expensive I think there are about 160 euros and they come with a more steeper shank I think two and three the more super - I wouldn't go above me I think this is the largest cutter I would use with more super - because this has its limits you don't want to shear it off or spin it in the collet which would be spin it and spindle of your mill this would be quite tragic and I got a new surface plate right here before this I had a Chinese 400 by 300 grade zero zero which was wood you did me good service for a lot of years I bought this short after I started out doing machining work in my own shop back when I had a small mini lathe seven-by-twelve and I wanted the surface plates I bought one of the Chinese ones it worked very well it it was reasonably cheap I think I paid less than 150 euros for it back then and I got a lot of use out of it and as well it was relatively accurate if it wasn't I would have seen in if you if you do scraping and you blew up your part at one corner surface plate then another quorum of the surface plate and the the pattern you get changes you know that something's wrong with your surface plate and that didn't happen with that plate so it I guess it was a reasonable flat but I do more and more work outside work for other people and I was thinking that I should get a a known good surface plate with proper test report so I was looking into different manufacturers there are I think three large German companies that make surface plates plumb lead this one of them to me is one of them and there is a third one I cannot remember and there is my tooling supplier Hoffman group which has their house brand Garant and they rebrand German mates tooling like surface plates wrenches pliers all kinds of tooling and sell them under their own brand name for a little bit less money and they do that with surface plates too so I get a surface plate which is a German made surface plate 630 by 400 millimeters great zero great zero is allows on the surface think of this size to be up to seven thousand seven or meter out of spec or out of flat not out of spec seven thousands of a millimeter out of flat that's 3/10 over the whole surface three ten thousandth of an inch roughly but they're very conservative walk there what the use of tolerances in reality they use about half the tolerance allowed just to be sure and after test report for this surface plate and it will show that to you okay let's go over it we have a surface plate six thirty by four hundred seventy millimeter thick drawing number that's internally for the company I made it the data much when it was checked seventeenth seven 2017 mr. Fleischer with his own signature that's a real signature now they copied one the tools they used to check it blue meter Sigma s 1925 which is just a display unit for the blue level to aid Sir Ian to 8:31 these are precision levels and this is just the display unit so they mapped out the surface plate with high precision levels and the blue meters are from the Swiss company Wyler which is the company to go to if you need a precision level I've linked down in description a really awesome promotional video of theirs they even show some hand scraping in the video so it it's quite it's quite cool than the the standard Dean which is lurches Institute for no German instead for standards eight seven eight seven six and slash zero that's the the great it's a zero great plate allowed tolerance seven thousands of ammonia seven microns that means that every point on this plate is between two planes that are seven thousands of a millimeter apart or could be when two plates are seven thousand of a millimeter apart and that's that's the actual measurement that's the largest deviation from highest to lowest point on this plate three point four six thousandths of a millimeter which is pretty much half the total out tolerance that's pretty darn good I would say for general shop use if you're not doing super mega high precision aerospace-grade whatever stuff that will work out and you get a topographical map off the surface plate with the left bottom corner as the zero and then you get this yeah a topographical map very high and lows on this plate door with actual measurements so that's that's quite nice to have that you can see this plate this slightly low in the middle and it's bit high here almost up to the and out to the corner I personally would prefer if it was high in the middle because that's the area that you use the most and wear down first but yeah you can't choose so yeah if I have a wear down this plate I will just reel a pit or have somebody come in real a bit that's not super expensive and Hoffman group will have somebody real a bit for you for a reasonable price and you get an actual inspection sticker with a with a proper surface plate next state of checking is and middle 2019 so it's a two-year recurring check if you want to be ISO 9001 conform which I'm not but it's it's it's a nice touch to have this and she'll have a proper known good reference surface as you can see it sits on three points here here and over here which are the three points that the surface blade was resting on while it was ground and lapped so by setting the plate on the same three points every time they can assure the precision of the plate that way it's everywhere you place it the same right now it's just sitting on top of the enough to steel cabinet here but I plain plan to make a frame that goes on top of the cabinet and has three proper mounting position kinematic mount for the surface plate one we one conical point and one free-floating so if the plate has some terminal thermal expansion it can freely move and not distort the blade which alright now I can move freely too but it's just sitting there and that's a bit that's a bit how you doing I have some footage of stainless steel bushings I had to make for a guitar maker 60 of them so I had to figure out a good way to make them without hundreds of setups in a row and taking forever so I have some footage where I showed the process I'm using 10 millimeter stock and I clamp it in a collet and to get the right stick out I pull the material out of the Chuck and I used the tailstock with the drill in it as a depth stop to adjust my stick out and I use a purpose ground parting tool to face the part do the OD turning this is free cutting stainless 140 305 which machines very beautifully Tecna finishing cut tolerances are not too fuzzy I machined them 2 plus minus 2 hundreds of a millimeter on the OD on the on the smaller diameter taking a facing cut out going back in machining the larger diameter still with the same tool using a fine cut file to deburr the edges using a two point five millimeter stop drill to punch in a hole all the way through using a small car countersink to be bird a hole and using the parting blade to finally part off the finished part that allowed me to do the whole job the first set up without any tool changes which made it go quite fast compress the air to clean up and [Music] fifty nine times more went quite fast that way it's not too bad so this is the tool I used to do all the turning parting and facing it's a horn 312 series parting insert that I changed to do turning as well so it can turn faith and part off we have a reasonable good finish and yeah it's 1.5 millimeter wide so it doesn't put too much load on the work or on the machine while parting and yeah i buy these used and i regrind them to every possible shape I need a new insert from Horan costs about I think 15 to 20 euros and you get three cutting edges with them you are limited with the diameter you can part off with them but that's a minor drawback for because for very small work these are really really nice well worth the money even if you buy them you just don't break them most of the time when they and they break they break all the way through the center hole and the remaining cutting edges get useless this is the parting tool that I changed on the grinder to do turning to the side parting and facing as you can see I ground quite a bit of clearance on the side of the insert here that can do normal turning I grant the top of the inserts to a little bit of back break so because this insert was worn out and as you can see here it has a side rake to the right end so I can do turning too and a little bit of back rake here side clearance here too so I can do facing and it still can do parting so this is my universal tool and this is the tool after I turned 63 of those small stainless parts and I didn't have to change the wear offset on my digital at all or regrind the tool it held up perfectly fine because when I grant the tool I first used ad ones 125 time and will which is a general-purpose medium roughness wheel and then I went over it with a D 40 which is a very fine diamond wheel it's almost a lapping wheel and that and such a such a good surface finish and edge without any imperfections holds up very long and very well even if used without proper cooling I run this tool only with a little bit of cutting oil so yeah that's the way I change to grind on this insert so these are 63 of the bushings turned from one side drilled and parted off next step will be to put them back in the leaf and they call it with a depth stop face them to length and put the five point five millimeter bore and then I clamped them the other way around in the collet Chuck and I use purpose ground tool to put on the 27 degree chamfer and face thing to length and here you can see a picture of the tool the front portion cuts the chamfer and the rear is relieved so I can take a facing cut with it and that way if the purpose grant tools s job really went very fast then the drawing called for a eight millimeter bore of a flat ground and I did that with an end mill held in a boring bar holder that I could use like a boring bar as a bullet carbide end mill it was very stiff and I took one roughing pass and one finishing pass and got it right on size with flat bottom perfectly fine and hero2 finished 61 bushings ready to ship okay I guess we're done for this episode I will take part in another Richard king scraping class this time Germany end of November down at the cart in a open workshop a like a pate hackerspace you go in there and you can buy time on machines or a million or on just bench space and use their equipment and that's where the scraping class organized by P axe will take place the space is called hobby camo which is freely translated it would be something like hobbyist seven ever very well equipped they have a deck lefty to milling machine with accessories a called Chester lathe a large sliding table table saw slider table saw all kinds of woodworking equipment welding equipment atronics lab through you printing early everything that you may need to make stuff that's worthy the course will happen Richard asked me to do to help him out with translating this time and I happily agreed yeah I will try to get some video and photo off the show I will try to get some video and photos off the scraping class again if I'm allowed to take photos in this space which is always something you have to check if you do with you or photo another thing I was at the emo 2017 trade show which is group world's largest trade show for machine tools machinery metrology stuff like that that can tell you I was there for two days and I didn't see half of the stuff there at all it's overwhelming I don't care much for the machinery milling machines get faster bigger more precise every year that's a given same for lace grinders EDM and stuff like that I care more for the tooling setup tools metrology cutting tool stuff like that that's what I'm personally interested most and I saw a lot of neat things for milling machine setup stuff like that unfortunately I didn't get much photos of the show I took about 15 photos or something like that and I cannot really show much after the trade show itself John Saunders which I met at the show which was a blast I'm really happy to have it met finally he's such a nice guy there is a photo of us on Instagram that he took we both at least I look a bit wasted in that folder but don't worry yes I look all the time and yeah John has John has a great video off the emo fray Joe about one and a half hours of footage watched and if you're interested in this show I unfortunate little to take much at all yeah that's not I think that's pretty much it thanks to all my new subscribers I'm going spelly up to 30,000 subscribers and this crazy imagine having 30,000 people in my shop and what and looking over my shoulder would get got quite crammed in here I hope that most of the people are really interested in the stuff I show and not only accidentally click at the subscribe button which I would appreciate too but I would prefer to have people that are really interested so thank you all for watching and see you next time [Music]

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 40,406

Rating: 4.9694476 out of 5

Keywords: morsetaper, morsekegel, bushings, buchsen, gitarre, carbide, hartmetall, horn 312, stechplatte, abstechplatte, horn, phorn, John Saunders, Emo 2017, annular cutter, rotabroach

Id: alO48pW0w2Q

Length: 30min 49sec (1849 seconds)

Published: Sun Nov 05 2017