Use Epoxy To Resurface Countertops To Make A Faux Stone/Marble Look | DIY Countertop Remodel Ideas

not only did we create the first DIY metallic epoxy countertop kit we also came up with a way to do dirty pores on countertop services this video is going to show you step-by-step how to recreate this look using a lagari stone kit [Music] so I'm gonna go over priming how to apply our primer it's very very simple first thing we want to do we got our three-eighths nap roller here I want to show you how to de ed it if you don't know how to do that so we just use painters tape yellow painters tape you can just put it anywhere and then we're gonna roll the roller on it this is gonna get any loose hairs off of here so it's good to get into the habit of always doing this when you're using nap rollers that have have hairs on them foam rollers it's always good to do those also but a little bit more critical when you're doing the naps alright so we're gonna put some gloves on this is basically all we need to prime we got the roller tray our roller we got our primer we have our water because we're gonna be adding water to it and then just a cup to mix it in you need about a 32 ounce cup to fit the primer in to and you can see right here it says add once mix blend in two ounces of clean water so this is the two ounces of clean water I already have that measured out so it's good to give it a little bit of a shake just in case anything settled in there took the bag get all that out of the handle there and then we're gonna add our Part B now this is the pigmented part a little bit thicker and I'm not worried about shaking this cuz I'm gonna actually add the water to the Part B since it is thicker to get all the leftover that's in the container here two ounces of water right into our Part B we'll put the lid back on shake that up and then for the primer we're just gonna mix with a stir stick it makes this really really easy it's really fluid and we want to mix this for about up to three minutes until you get a consistent color you can still see some some white and there we want to get that a solid color notice I'm scraping my edges as I'm mixing want to scrape the bottom all right so that's ready to go solid color I just got a dump in the roller tray and then we'll start priming now we won't need all this primer we send out plenty primer this is a 50 square foot kitchen so a lot of times like if you're going say say we're going over we wanted to do white on this counter we're gonna be using a white primer so it's not going to cover the dark edges as well with one coast you need to do two coats we're not as concerned about the top but if you can see through on any of your edges or the corners you want to hit that again and you only need to wait but by the time you're done doing your first coat you can usually go back and prime your edges again so it's really fast but you want to make sure you can get your edges your corners a solid color just like the primer you don't want to see through it at all so we'll just soak this up for a minute and then we'll just do a pass down the middle and then just cross roll this so this is a fast cure primer so it's gonna dry really fast and you need to apply your epoxy over this within 2 hours so if you can't apply your epoxy within 2 hours and you probably shouldn't prime your counters because if you wait the next day or past that this stuff's gonna be basically a sealed surface and you're gonna need to scuff it up a little or do like a denatured alcohol wipe on it to tack it make it get tacky it's made to go on thin as you can see and all I'm doing is rolling it out quick and then I'll look for any thick spots roller lines make sure my edges are all hit my corners and if there's any thick roller lines I'll kind of roll those out and then we just kind of continue that process throughout the counter [Music] you can kind of see how you can see through in some spots again that doesn't really matter on the top the products so much thicker on the top then the edges so in the faces we just want to really get these faces and edges a solid gray color that's what I mean we can kind of see through it so I'm gonna come back when I'm all done just hit those faces again and there'll be a solid gray color and you'll see right here so what we did since we don't have a backsplash we just taped the wall and then we took the same paint color we had tape going down here so we didn't get a lot on the plastic we got a little bleed and then we brushed the same color that's on the wall on this tape and that's gonna seal that up so we don't get any bleed from epoxy or primer since it's a textured wall cool little trick when you want like nice crisp lines just paint over your tape with the same wall color and that'll seal up any spots that are gonna wind up bleeding and then obviously if you guys have back splashes like tile or glass that has grout you would tape it like this and we like to use the painters tape for tiles and stuff that'll stick better and then obviously you can't paint on that because the paint is not going to match so we just do a clear latex paint a bowl cocking we run that in there and that'll steel up the tape as well [Music] so another thing we're going over and I sanded epoxy surface if you're going over like unsanded or from mica sometimes you'll get you'll roll out the primer and it'll separate fish iron spots that has like contaminations or maybe some silicone residue let the primer set up a little just like we are going on the faces and then when you reroll that when it gets a little tacky it'll fill those in so don't worry about about that just to keep priming and then come back after that primer set for a little bit and just reroll those spots and then we did the the decorative edge here we've already coated over at once so we're just gonna coat over it again it's gonna fill it in a little bit more but you should still be able to see it [Music] so I don't even need to necessarily re-read it my roller right I can just get this again some of these spots a little bit thick not that it matters this is going to take a little longer to dry so I'll just roll this out real quick now when you're coating it again you don't want to overwork it a fight if I overwork it it'll start to pull that first layer up so we want to just hit it really quick and light same thing with our edges get a little bit more on here I'm not gonna dip it all the way in there cuz I don't want to get a lot on the roller since I'm just hitting my edges you can see how much more of a solid color it'll make those edges just one more quick hit on them again you don't want to over roll it just real quick and light you can see how fast it dries like this is already ready to go and you can tell still it's wet versus dry but that's alright it's already getting tacky so I can just hit it again this one we obviously just finished so I need to let that sit a little bit more because you can tell doesn't cover it like it did everywhere else so we'll let that tack up just a tad bit 5 minutes probably I'll finish that out and then if you guys can put a fan obviously you don't a blow dust and debris on it but if you can get some airflow on the primer it's gonna dry even faster but we'll probably I'll put a fan on this and we'll probably start the epoxy about a half an hour from now so the parameters drive really quick easy to do to coach main thing is make sure your edges your faces are a solid of the primer colors you can get it you don't want to see through that at all alright so to do our lagari stone countertops we got to tape the edges right we want to create a dam to keep that resin on the counter until we want it to flow over the edge best way to do this we're gonna use painters tape yellow painters tape to strips around everything and we want to make sure we're tape and high we don't want to tape low to where the resin can get to the top of that tape and kind of push it over and flow flow over the counter so I'm going to tape high now the primer is tacky but it's dry it's not coming up so you want to make sure the primer is dry it's okay if it's tacky is still gonna cure underneath that tape last thing you want to do is put the tape on some wet primer and you're gonna lose your bond and then you're gonna get resin flowing underneath that tape so there's our first pass and then we're gonna do another pass try to keep it at the same height then what we want to do after we get the tape on is really press this down good you want to get a good tight seal especially on our corners so once you get that good seal on there we're just gonna take these corners and just do a little crease in them basically just pinch the edge in just like that that'll make the tape a little tighter make your corners nice and tight so that's it so we'll continue the process taping two rows of tape make sure it's high and then biggest thing is make sure you're really pushing that down getting a good seal when you get to inside corners you want to just slowly push that tape into it so you don't have a gap there we want to make sure that's nice and tight in that inside corner to the inside of the sink so make sure you're really pressing that tape and getting a good seal so when he got a decorative edge like we do here you really want to press that top corner and so you're not going to get a good seal where all the texture is on your edge so I'm kind of pressing in on the top just a little bit let's say you tape off so we'll get started mixing and go from there okay I want to show you how to mix up this lagari stone kit this lagari stone kit has three adamantium in it a midnight pearl and a dark mercury and we're also going to be using some white spray paint in this kit this is rust-oleum it's just white it's gloss protective enamel real real straightforward they're gloss spray paint open up the rest of the kit now we have our three gallon countertop kit two gallons of a one gallon of B so before we mix this up and I'll show you how to separate it and we'll get Tyler some clear for his base coat I want to show you a lot of the stuff you're going to need so we have a bunch of two quart containers you can get two and a half quart containers we have six of those we have one standard quart container and then we have a bunch of these five quart containers we have five of these these are big so we're gonna mix our color in here and then we're going to pour it in here then of course we have some five gallon paint sticks and some standard one gallon paint sticks a couple drills set up one with a large paddle wheel and a small paddle wheel that we'll put on this other drill of course we have some gloves and I have a respirator for when we're mixing up the metallics I do recommend that you mix up the metallics outside if you can you don't want the metallics floating around the building or the house where you're working so the first thing we want to do is we want to get Tyler 64 ounces of resin so he can begin to apply the base coat I actually think we will need one more of these two core containers so the first thing we want to do is pour out 42 ounces of a and obviously if we have 42 ounces of a we want 21 ounces of be-because our resin is two to one so two parts a to one Part B going to pour my Part B into my Part A and now with the small mixing wheel there's two settings on this drill I want to put it on the low setting and I want to mix this for a couple minutes moving up and down the container slowly and spinning it on the side the bottom you got to be careful with some of these containers that you can buy though some of them are really flimsy you can actually break the container just depends on the quality of container you have now what you want to do is grab a fresh paint stick don't use the paint stick we use to get the Part B into the Part A use a fresh paint stick and what we're going to do is pour all of this material into this new jug it's a brand new jug we want to make sure that this is mixed thoroughly if you don't pour it into new jugs and mix for another 30 to 45 seconds you can't guarantee that you won't have soft spots and soft spots are kind of a nightmare in the industry now and I can actually look in this and there's some part AIDS that was on the edge of the container that is now in the middle of the resin that I can actually see so now we're gonna mix it for another 30 to 45 seconds just to mix that in and it's ready to go I'm gonna let as much of this get off the drill as possible before I spin off all the excess alright now we have a thoroughly mixed thin clear coat for Tyler to put on these counters alright so what we're gonna need to do this thin layer of the clear epoxy is a foam roller and a squeegee you can also use a paint stick use that as a squeegee really simple to apply and what you're gonna want to do is win you start doing your clear coat this coat right here you want whoever's helping you just start mixing up all the metallics for the the dirty pour effect right that way when we're done do this this thin basecoat basically I can start dumping out the the epoxy for the actual coating that way we're not letting this set up taking longer so it's always good to have someone help you and again once you start this they can start mixing all the colors together that way when you're ready to go you got epoxy so what we want to do this obviously needs to go over to the whole counter so I want to start out with thin beads everywhere and make sure they're all even I don't have really thick wide beads in some spots really thin and others so we're gonna start out with small beads and we can always come back and add to them so on like an island like this I would do two since it's obviously wider than the the other cap counters and I'm going to tilt that back so we're not dripping and then on this I'll just pour one right down the middle if you don't want to have to be picking up epoxy and moving it around so the best thing to do is start out small and then we can go back and add add to the same beads [Music] and I'm just kind of adding anywhere it's a little bit thinner right this is a little wider than out here so I just added some there this one's looking fairly even over here we got a really wide spot so we don't need any there I'm gonna add a little here and before we run out we want to get a little bit on these tight spots [Music] you see back in the corner you might need a little bit this a little wider back there alright so there's that now we're just going to take the squeegee you can roll it if you don't have a squeegee it's just gonna take you a little longer and if you're doing it with just a roller you want to really press hard and almost use it like a squeegee right but I like to do the squeegee it goes a lot faster and I'm just flattening it off I'm holding the squeegee at a low angle so I'm not pulling all the resin off and just flattening it all off real quick and then once I get done with that I'll take the roller and roll over the whole surface [Music] then we'll kind of bring it up to our edges and notice how I'm holding that squeegee at a low angle the more you spread it out with a squeegee that easier it is to roll it now we're just gonna roll it out real quick just back and forth this is gonna help get rid of any thick spots any unevenness to it notice I'm really not trying to push into the tape we stopped him before I hit that tape really simple so everything's got a thin coat you kind of hear my roller doesn't sound sticky that's how you want it to sound if it sounds sticky in spots you need to kind of move some resin over to that area but this is good so now I'll do to continue this process throughout the rest of the counters and that's basically how you do your thin coat of epoxy really simple fast just make sure when you start this process you have whoever's helped and you start mixing all the metallics all the colors for the actual dirty pour technique okay Tyler's laying out that first base coat now since this takes just a couple minutes to let these containers drain we're gonna pour both parties into a five-gallon bucket I'm just hanging them in there with a five-gallon stir stick the other thing is there's a lot of surface area on the inside of these containers the one frustration with them is that it takes a little bit to drain it all out so it's nice to have them upside down for a while don't wait until you're ready to mix up to do this just leave them upside down while well the base coats happening and the other thing to be aware of is that the top of the containers have this handle and sometimes if you pour the epoxy too fast it can get caught in the handle so you want to just tip it up for a few seconds and then tilt it back down just to make sure everything's out of those handles and what I'm waiting for when I'm draining these out and and you can wait even longer if you want is I'm waiting for the epoxy stream to turn more into it trip I just want most of the epoxy out you really want to make sure you acclimate the epoxy to the room you're working in as well and you want to try to install around 70 degrees all right so that's definitely get in there that's more of a drip I'm happy with that not much running out of that one either now I'm going to pour the rest of my Part B in here and the Part B much more fluid so it's going to drain a lot quicker crystal clear and if you pour slow it's not going to get caught up in this handle and the same thing you're just gonna kind of wait for that stream to turn more into a drip okay it's starting to really drip it's a real fine fine stream I could leave it upside down for another minute if I wanted to but that's alright want to get this moving along now I'm gonna use the big paddle wheel on a on a fairly high speed and we're gonna do the same process we're gonna mix this up for a couple minutes and then I'm gonna dump it into another bucket mix it for another 30 to 45 seconds and same thing I'm moving moving the drill up and down scraping the bottom the sides with the drill head and now I'm going to pour this into the other bucket what I'm going to do is I'm going to scrape the inside of this just like with the smaller container I'm scraping all the bottom all the sides I want to get all of this epoxy into this other bucket if you get any epoxy on yourself just spray a little bit of denatured alcohol on a rag keep your hand clean keep the drill clean makes everything a lot nicer so we're gonna again mix this for about another thirty to forty-five seconds in the new bucket alright we spun off the drill in the bucket now what I want to do is set out five of these big containers and I want to pour two sixty four ounces in all of them so that we can mix in all of our metallic colors and again we're gonna do adamantium in three of them and dark mercury in one midnight pearl and another one so the first thing we want to do is pour in 64 ounces the biggest thing is making sure that you've distributed the epoxy in all the buckets evenly as you can see some have a little more than 64 ounces some have a little less than 64 ounces so we just want to start to even those out a little bit we just want the epoxy pretty even you're gonna have a little bit of loss of epoxy in the buckets when you're pouring into new buckets not much but it's more important that you make sure that the epoxy is mixed thoroughly than to make sure you have you know that extra two or three ounces so all of them are either at 64 ounces maybe right under 64 ounces but we're pretty much we're pretty much right there so now I have mixed epoxy this is where you don't want to take a long time I have mixed epoxy now but you'll see you have plenty of time to do this and even me explaining this process I have plenty of time I'm just gonna pour all the metallics in these and I'm going to mix it up and then we'll make our dirty pour batches basically and so what's cool is I don't need to switch drew out for every color I just need to make sure that I'm mixing from the lightest color to the darkest color so I'm going to mix up the adamantium first use the same drill then mix up the dark mercury and then I'll go to the midnight pearl so I can keep using the same drill if you go from darker colors to lighter colors it's kind of like drawing right you're always gonna make the lighter colors darker but it's tough for the light colors to make the dark colors light so I'm gonna put a mask on because I don't want to be breathing metallics [Music] remember the epoxies already mixed up so what I'm doing now is not mixing the epoxy I'm just trying to submerse all of the metallics and blend it in enough where there's no more pockets of powder that's the biggest key you're trying to get rid of all powder and emulsify it into the liquid [Music] okay now it's time to make our dirty pour batches this is when it gets fun so I'm gonna set my three adamantium is over there my dark mercury midnight pearl and I'm going to take five fresh buckets these are the two quart containers again you can use two and a half quart containers and the first thing I want to do is I want to take my spray paint and I'm gonna put this spray paint in the first three containers so we'll put this rag over it and we're just gonna spray it on the edge we're gonna tilt it up a little bit because you want to keep the container the paint container upright as much as you can obviously you should still be wearing a mask right now but I took mine off you're gonna want to wear a mask for this one you can see we're putting quite a bit of white in there it doesn't seem like a lot but it is and we're just spraying it on the side so it drips down the side alright now we have the spray paint done and semi-high and now we're going to pour the colors in these buckets to create batches so the first thing I want to do because we have a lot of the adamantium is I want to put some adamantium in all of these and then we'll add the dark mercury and the midnight pearl to a couple of them and I'm gonna try to just split this between some of them guys there's really not a right or wrong way to do this this is what makes the lagari stone kits so unique I'm gonna use this paint stick and just get all of this out of the container now we have one bucket down four to go and now what I'll do is I'll actually add some black and some more adamantium to these mixes at the same time and maybe on a couple of them we'll just add some black by itself right at the end we decided to keep some left [Music] we'll take some of the dark mercury now pour it through the middle a little bit [Music] do some more adamantium I'm gonna go back with some dark mercury pour through the middle again the other way and it's crazy you'll see how this actually effects it it's actually creating layers within the mix and when Tyler pours it out some of these colors are going to blend together some of the colors will be vibrant by themselves obviously these colors are fairly close in tint but it's still going to look beautiful and have tons of highs and lows in it all over that counter okay so now all we have left is a little bit of adamantium and black and what I want to do is I'm going to I'm going to leave black on top of some of these kits so I'm just gonna get rid of a lot of this and pour at the same time for some of these kits but we'll take the two in the middle and we'll just leave black by itself on top of that and we'll use the rest of this adamantium we'll split it between these two kits what's funny guys that looks like I'm a chef and I know everything that I'm doing but a lot of this is just a fun guessing game that's the beauty of these kits you're gonna have a blast mixing these things up and we could use the same colors and we could actually make a completely different look it'll have a similar tint it'll be a completely different looks and I'm going to take black and I'm just going to pour it in these last two in the middle that didn't get a lot we're just gonna leave black in these see if we can get a couple batches with some real vibrant black all by itself and we'll even leave just a little bit in the bucket we won't scrape it all out so the tiler can even try to get a little bit out and make some tiny veins so now we got five batches I'm gonna give it right to Tyler because you don't want to waste time [Music] all right so just like Tim said we don't want to leave these in the bucket longer than they have to be so once they're mixed we want to get them into the counter and start dumping them out I'm gonna just show you a quick way to kind of map out your design in your counter that way you're not kind of guessing again it doesn't matter these are such an easy kit to do and they're always gonna look beautiful but if you have a certain design in mind you can take a paint stick and we can kind of just start mapping out our design on the top though that's gives me something to start with and you can do it over the whole counter or just one big vein you want to do it doesn't really matter the next thing I want to talk about is we need to make sure we don't pour too much of this out in one section of the counter so we're going to start with one bucket pour some out kind of go around and make sure we're kind of swapping around if you're doing an island or counters that are offset different places you want to make sure you're not pouring too much of that product in one area so we're gonna start we have three buckets that have the white spray paint so we're gonna dump one of these out first maybe on we'll start on this side and then we'll take another white one and we'll go over to this counter because we want to make sure we get white all throughout the kitchen area so we're just gonna start following this this line that I created kind of like a guide so look at how beautiful that is such a cool look this is gonna level out these are gonna be absolutely stunning so when I get a little out I'll start to flatten it off and it'll create a wider a wider bead now you can notice it's really random patterns a lot of different ways you can pour it out I like to do the random patterns and make everything go different directions it looks a really natural but again you can go straight back and forth you can do kind of softer right like a softer pattern all throughout it totally up to you how you want to do it so all I'm doing is just kind of going around I'm gonna use this full bucket out here and then I'll take another white one and do maybe that half of the counter and maybe a little on here just so I'm kind of getting that white everywhere so again you can tell I'm going really random patterns and when I get close to running out I'll slow it down a little bit and kind of let that flow off notice I'm holding it close to the counter now you can tilt these upside-down let them drip out but I like to leave a little in there and I can use that later on for some really fractures thin fracture veins highlighting some of the patterns so there's one bucket so now I'm going to take the other one that has the white in it and I'm gonna start on this side I'll pour one bead out here and then I'll come over here the next bead I'll pour out over there that way I can kind of get the white on both spots [Music] so now I'm going to start from this side I saw about this time I want to be real careful that I'm not pouring too much out obviously I'm not gonna need as much on this little guys everywhere else so to get to get the white everywhere I'm gonna do the last white bucket I'm gonna get a little on here and then I'll save this do the rest to fill in these and then if I want to add more white somewhere I can either take spray paint and spray it into here or I can just pour out of this so notice I'm just going super random patterns [Music] that looks about about the same amount as everywhere else I'll save this for later I'll grab the ones that don't have a spray paint and now I want to go in and fill in everywhere I don't want to pour right next to a bead because again this still is going to level out these would probably wind up touching so I want to go in the middle of these spots go around the counter do that and then see what what's left to pour out [Music] [Music] [Music] so notice I'll try to spore smaller beads when I get in tighter spots so we'll let this level out a little we'll start working on these other spots and when we come back you'll see a lot of this will start to touch and fill in and then we just kind of go around and fill in the bare spots all right so I'm gonna get a little more why I like I like how this whites looking in there so I'm gonna spray some more white as I'm before I pour out some of these some of these other beads so we're just gonna spray into the side and again it doesn't take much we'll start with that and see what happens you can see how the white really pops now and again there was no white in here so we're gonna keep spraying some white because I really like that effect [Music] all right so I got I guess I got I got one more with white in it I didn't realize that we had five I thought we had four so I have actually just and spraying the spray-paint into a cup and I can just pour in be a lot easier if I'm going to add more white so we need to get a little more on some of these spots you can see others not a lot left to fill in here which tells me I have some big bear spots out here so I want to start filling those in to try to get as similar miss spots as out on the island so we just sprayed some in a cup now I can just dump this in here and again it goes a long way so I don't need to use a lot but that's gonna be a lot faster and easier than trying to spray into here so we're gonna try to get this back section kind of run something around there yeah see I like that wide that White's really popping get a little right here so now add some more white to it so as you can see we don't have a lot of white in here so I'm gonna do my after I poured the white and I'm gonna do that anywhere that I need need some white I'm kind of just do it sporadically so it's kind of all throughout the counter here [Music] so notice how this is starting to look more like the island there's not a lot of miss spots and again I can save a little in the bucket for some fracture highlight veins and stuff so now we got the dark one again I probably want to do a little more white out here so I'll pour some some white into this one as well and again if you guys don't want a lot of white you don't have to add more but this is a really easy way to add this gray paint [Music] again I'm pouring smaller smaller beads out now since everything is almost touching [Music] as you can see I'm just doing stuff around him you can't screw this stuff up and these are gonna look absolutely beautiful when they all level out so I had a little bit more white and this is our last bucket so we want to now really start fine-tune in these spots and starting to be more precise with how we pour it out we don't want to pour too much out in some spots just start to fill everything in [Music] get back behind this sink here got a decent amount of white in here so I don't need to add any more just start filling this in a little bit we got a good amount of white everywhere looking really good probably won't add any more white we'll just start filling everything in now so I'll show you how to really fine-tune your beads we're gonna use a piece of cardboard we're gonna pour it on the cardboard and it's gonna make those beads a lot wider just keep in mind you're gonna get bubbles in these areas because we're basically layering a sheet of epoxy right over air into another layer of epoxy so it is gonna make some bubbles where we do this but that's alright because it will pop so we'll pour a little out and then we'll just start getting it into spots and it'll help help fill in areas you see how wide of a white of a bead that makes and get a little bit through here I saw grab some some other containers that have some left in it and then we'll just again just keep filling in spots again in another ten minutes most of this would wind up leveling out and filling in anyways but there's no point in not using all the resin so we'll just go around and help fill in these back areas and [Music] all right so I started dumping I let these drip out into the other containers for a little bit and we'll start highlighting some of these some of these veins spots that aren't filled in so I've pasted the bucket a little and then I'm just kind of following any of these bare spots [Music] all I'm doing now is going around filling in any bare spots with the leftovers and then Tim poured out just some straight black that I'm gonna use to do some some highlight veins some really skinny solid black veins once I'm done with this all right so what what I'll do before I do that the solid black veins is I'm just gonna go around and anywhere that doesn't look like natural spot like like it rounds off on the end right like right here and there's a little bit of a mess but there's a lot of resin there right there's just no color so I'm just going to kind of blend that in and get that color there so if you're out out of mix this is kind of what you can do right just come in Pat stuff around get that color there even though it's there's resin there the color might not have pushed in because what will happen is these bees will push up that clear layer we did and fill it in and so it creates a cool look if you have those throughout the counter random spots like that but if you don't like it just Pat them in with your fingers real simple I'm just doing anywhere that doesn't look like a natural spot like right here it's kind of like a like a circle will just blend this in just a tad bit it doesn't take much this one's pretty much good so again I'll just we got plenty resin out here just gonna tap in these spots don't worry about screwing up the design cuz it's gonna look beautiful no matter what [Music] I still got just enough resin to kind of fill these spots in again might as well use it all I need to get some in the back here anywhere these back edges are and I'll probably want to get some white back behind the sink just a little I'll show you how we can do that little residue a spray paint I'll just dip my finger in it get some on there right kind of just blend that in so again I'm just looking for bare spots I don't have the color there's really not a lot of them and then once I'm done with that I can go through and highlight with some black fracture veins [Music] okay those are good you got any miss spots here it doesn't look like it this one looks really really good so this I'm gonna break this up a little I don't want to so white so I'm just gonna kind of follow that vein pattern right and just start breaking this up just a little bit get some of that metallics to come through there there's just too much concentration of white right here and then the same thing same same thing I'm going to do back here and right here just kind of start running some some veins breaking this up a little bit and if you guys like it you can just leave it but again you can't really screw it up once we hit this isuh profile it's gonna all blend out these just won't be as solid of a white this is kind of the look we're going for just highlights a light not really solid colors blending that in a little is gonna help help kind of meet that solid white all right so I got my solid black here right kind of map out obviously I don't want to do black highlight value next to black so maybe like this would be cool cuz it's all pretty pretty light so we'll pinch this Cup start over here that way we get a nice thin bead coming out hold it close to the epoxy and I'm just trying to follow one of these edges [Music] just like that really cool accent bein do another one maybe right in here bring it out to that white that's out there [Music] run one through here do a little bit over here and they don't have to start on an edge - I'll start out here in the middle run right next to this white alright so before I spray the isopropyl I'm just gonna make sure everything's covered there's no bare spots miss spots and just kind of look make sure everything's how I want it there's no real spots that look like it was just poured out it all kind of blends in and flows all right so we'll spray this with the isopropyl now we're gonna be using 91% isopropyl you want to use 91% or higher and we're going for the smaller drips if you don't want the added effects like the dispersing effects you'll get you can just missed it the other option is just misting it with denatured alcohol but we're going for some cells add a little bit more character to this so we're gonna spritz the whole surface and kind of see the drips that are coming out [Music] nice fine small little drips not spraying too much on it [Music] now if you're in a house obviously want a big warehouse we're gonna probably want to wear a mask when you're spraying this stuff just because it is a chemical [Music] so that's the isopropyl spray so a lot of these cells and stuff and crater looking spots are gonna disappear where they're solid you know metallic pigments a lot of spots where the spray paint is they're gonna stay all this should stay right so it will tone down a little bit but again if you don't want that that added dispersing effect just mist it with isopropyl alcohol or even denatured alcohol if you're looking for popping bubbles anything but you can tell there's really no bubbles out here didn't have to torch it so last thing we're gonna do is let this set up for about it really depends on the temperature of your area that you're coating but usually it's anywhere from 45 minutes to two hours again depending on the temperature when you pull the tape and the best way to do it is to check your tape right when you're done pull it back see how fast that's moving down it may seem slow to you cuz this is your first time or whatever but that's moving way too fast so we want that to set up a little so where when we pull this tape back it's just barely moving because you can see if I pull it now a lot of this products gonna go off the edge it's gonna want to pull that design away we want to keep this design on the top so by doing that if we let the resin set up start to get sticky so it's not moving as much and then we pull the tape and there's enough resin on the top to flow over enough even though it's sticky to coat your edges and we'll show you guys that when we do it but again best way to do pull the tape back test it and I'll show you guys how it should look when you pull the tape and again it totally depends on your your temperature that you're pouring this stuff out at we're about probably about 58 60 degrees in here so it is gonna take us a little bit longer for the resin to set up all right so I found one spot I didn't like after spraying the denatured I can still mess with it so if you see a spot that you don't necessarily light like you can blend it in more so what I'm gonna do is just kind of blend this in to the edge a little bit more and just kind of blend this in right just so it kind of tone tones it down a little bit run something in there and then we'll just spritz that one more time and that'll help even everything out so take the isopropyl I'll just spritz the spot you tell it kind of just blends it in with the rest of the counter so if you have spots that you don't necessarily like or anywhere you want to fine-tune just just try to hit that right away and again once you pull these edges it's gonna move a little bit and it'll make this look more natural anyways because these veins and stuff will go down that edge I'm gonna look really really cool alright guys so it's time to pull the tape and like I told you before I'm gonna show you what the kind of look that you're looking for when we pulled this tape down to check so notice how it was really flowing fast before see how it's just barely moving it's perfect time so again there's enough resin on here to flow over the edges it's gonna coat them obviously if you have thicker edges like say you have a three-inch edge or something you're gonna want to pull it a little sooner so it can flow a little more but typical counter edges inch and a half two inches you're gonna be fine so we're gonna start just tear the tape last thing you want to do is wait too long so again best way to test you can tell it's moving but it's moving slow and you can pull it a little soon or - if you're if you're worried about that but you'll see this will this will start to roll down that edge we'll still have to come back and brush in any bare spots to get it to flow over evenly but other than that we really don't need to mess with the edges so we're just kind of pulling down at an angle and kind of see how the resin just molds back onto the counter there and you'll have some spots that are obviously thicker and some that are thinner and if you have spots it like are not flowing I'll show you how to touch those up you can see where we started it's already halfway down the counter really cool process same thing here it's starting to move so we'll come over here I know it's a little bit thicker out over here so this will probably get down there a little bit quicker but we'll just get all the tape pulled first and then we'll we'll roll em brushing our edges the reason we wait is because we don't want the top the design on the top to change if you were to do this technique without tape all your all your product would have these run marks because it's flowing over the edge and pulling it so now it's set up enough to where the tops not going to change we're not gonna have any run marks or streaks where it looks like it's pulling over the edge and the other cool thing about this is your veins will come down to angles and stuff on the faces so if you didn't wait and do what we're doing here like for instance like this vein here will come down at an angle if we just poured it and let it fall right away they would be straight down and I'll kind of point that out here in a little bit where you can actually see what I'm talking about [Music] alright so the next thing we want to do obviously it's flowing over the edge but we want to help it right we want to fill in all these with epoxy so it's creating surface tension it's just gonna be dripping there so you can either take a paintbrush or I'm just gonna use my hand cuz it's real simple and don't worry about screwing up the design that's coming down cuz this is still gonna flow over the edge for the next probably half an hour and slowly drip so all we're gonna do I'm gonna take my hand obviously I got a glove on and we're just gonna start flattening this off just coating getting everything coated with epoxy and then once we get that whole surface coated in epoxy that's gonna help it flow over evenly and again guys don't don't worry about screwing up the design I mean if it's really sticky and it's not flowing you might want to kind of go with go with the design of the the top that's flowing over but as long as you pull it in enough time you're not gonna have to worry about that because again this is going to keep flowing and if you have spots that are too thin or there's just not a lot of product there you can get product the leftover product that's in your buckets spots that have maybe dripped off onto the floor where you have a lot like you see like right here there's obviously it's going down to the bottom right without even really touching it so you can always find some some resin to use on your edges if you need to so again we're just getting this whole surface coated obviously if it's covered all the way I don't need to brush that in right I'm just trying to get the spots that are missing a pox no point in just rubbing in your full whole face if it's basically coated already and then this is the decorative edge that we did with the bondo this is gonna look really good this is the second epoxy coat that we've done over these edges so it won't be as noticeable but you'll still be able to tell it's a different edge than the rest so notice I'm just hitting the bottom edges cuz it's almost to the bottom not just smearing the whole face same thing here I don't really need to touch there I'm doing this go into spots that need some resin so you can see where we started it's already coming down again so once every all the surface tension is gone it's gonna let the resin flow over more evenly same thing that's right here it's almost halfway down so once we get it coated in we don't want to mess up the edges any more if there's some spots that are missing resin obviously hit those brush those in with your hand paint brush whatever and then we'll let these let these just start to flow over all right so obviously it's still gonna be dripping but I'm gonna show you how to how to scrape your drips if the resins getting sticky and setup you want to use something sharp it's almost gonna like cut the resin off if it's still really fluid you can use a paint stick and I'll just start right here we'll see how it is it is a little sticky now but see how it starts to build up on that edge if it's sticky like I'll show you here see that's kind of pulling and leaving some behind if I take a scraper something flatter it's gonna almost cut that off and not do that see that so when it starts to set up you want to use some type of scrape or something that's really thin that you can just kind of cut that off with you just want to be careful that you don't gouge up to this out the side of the edge to again it's still a little early you'll probably have to do this periodically over the next maybe hour hour-and-a-half you want to scrape his drips that way you don't have to sand them the next day all right so we'll so we'll let these flow over periodically check them again we don't want to walk away now and assume everything's going to be good maybe maybe you pulled the tape too late and the resin isn't gonna flow all the way over there's ways we can touch that up with the paintbrush get a little white color if there's a white vein there other things is we don't want the edges to look like it's running anywhere like right here I'm not worried about this because it's still flowing over but if this was setting up and not really dripping I try to brush that in a little with my like a paintbrush and just blend it up so it doesn't look like it runs but other than that that's pretty much it we just kind of let it do its thing flow over the edge and then come back and periodically we just have to scrape the drips so pretty simple process once you get it done one of the easiest countertop kits on the market simply pour the product out self level self marbleize is you don't have to torch it seven days fully cured and we're gonna show you all the final footage next [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music]

Channel: Leggari Products

Views: 437,248

Rating: 4.8287325 out of 5

Keywords: Renew Old Laminate Countertops, Designer Epoxy Installation, epoxy, epoxy resin, leggari, leggari products, stonecoat countertops, faux marble, epoxy metallic, epoxy flooring, resin pour, stone coat countertops, epoxy countertop, countertop epoxy, epoxy countertops, epoxy tutorial, painting countertops, epoxy table, how to epoxy, epoxy countertop diy, epoxy resin table, epoxy coating, stonecoat epoxy, epoxy metallic floor, diy epoxy, countertop finishing kit, dirty pour

Id: X29WtQkOohU

Length: 60min 14sec (3614 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 29 2020