How To Repair Old Concrete | Resurface Concrete Sidewalk | Restoration Project DIY Concrete Repair

before we get started on today's video we wanted to let you know that we're on our way to 800 000 subscribers and we've noticed that a huge percentage of you guys that watch our videos every week are not subscribed to our channel it only takes seconds out of your day to press that subscribe button especially if you enjoy this content we launch videos every week so you can get notified every time there's a new one thanks for all your support we hope you enjoy the video hey everyone tyler with lagardi products and i'm going to show you what our concrete repair kits can do for you if your concrete looks like this spalling pitting flaking simply deteriorate in front of your eyes don't replace it resurface it and make it look brand new just like this so on this 100 square foot kit we're going to be coating this apron to the driveway the sidewalk has a has a few different names and what i'm going to do is hold that pressure washer wand really close to all this pitted out spalling concrete and what i'm trying to do is eliminate all the loose stuff pop that up get that out because we don't want to coat over anything that's gonna eventually pop up so i'm gonna take that wand hit all this stuff now a lot of this stuff has already chipped up that it's um from driving on it being down like that for a while you guys might have it where it's it's relatively fresher uh spalling and you're gonna get a lot of chunks to pop up but i'll kind of show you the process so what i'll do first is take the pressure washer get every square inch of this spalling any loose stuff chip that up and then i'll take the pressure washer wand and then we'll clean the whole thing off and we'll show you those steps next [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so [Music] so we're going to go over how to tape your uh project off right we're just coating this apron here so we don't want to get overlay on this or out on the road there so tim's taping off this outer edge we're using blue tape as uh anywhere we can and we get a good bond now sometimes the blue tape's not going to stick well to like rough surfaces porous surfaces so then we'll use the yellow tape but just keep in mind this yellow tape tends to leave a sticky residue behind so we try to minimize using that whenever we can but if we're not getting a good bond and seal with the blue tape we'll use the yellow tape so he's taping that off and then we have the mastic here separating the apron from the the concrete so we have mastics what you call it they'll put this in between pores sometimes usually uh sidewalks and stuff so we have the driveway here the sidewalk apron to the driveway we want to tape this off because overlay is not going to bond well to that it'll eventually chip off so we're going to tape that off now the blue tape's not going to stick well to that so we're going to use the yellow tape there and we're going to try not to step on that the more you step on this yellow tape the more that residue will stick and it's just a pain in the butt to pull off and we'll probably wind up pulling this off after each coat and re-taping just to keep a nice straight edge here it's going to look a lot cleaner be easier to pull but yeah so we're just going around anywhere we're not going to coat we want to tape off and if you guys are worried about getting you know overlay out here you can run some paper out there plastic we just did two rows of blue tape and we'll kind of be cautious of getting product past that you want to make sure you're pressing that tape down really nice and tight that way you get a good seal and same thing with the front we're going to do another strip use a blue tape because it's not going to stick as much leave that residue behind and then when you guys are taping up to an existing concrete pad you want to tape on that top edge so you'll see where tim's taping that we don't want to stuff that down into that joint because that the overlay is going to wind up locking it in so so tape right on that top edge there and that'll make it easy to pull later okay we're gonna mix up a hundred square foot concrete repair kit now i'm going to mix up step one right here every step is the same so the first thing we're going to do is pour in the liquid polymer we're going to add the liquid modifier to that and then we're going to slowly pour in the concrete overlay the texture coat and while we're blending slowly with the drill open up the polymer pour about half of it out because some of the polymer settles to the bottom we want to secure the cap let's just shake it up really well dump the dump the rest of that in now if you dump it quickly you may get some liquid at the top of this handle so just make sure everything's out of that handle now we'll add the liquid modifier we'll just blend that a little bit now i'm going to be doing this by myself obviously it'll be a lot easier to do it with someone because you want to pour this bag in as you're blending now when you receive your concrete repair kit it will most likely have different bags than this they'll probably be brown they'll be a little bit easier to pour but it's the same idea you're gonna add it slowly to the liquid polymer blend this for probably two or three minutes make sure it's like a really kind of like a runny paste and all the chunks are out of it okay that's mixed this is ready to go what's nice about this kit is they fit in a five gallon bucket so we're going to rinse this this paddle wheel off and then get this to tyler we'll start applying it so before tyler starts applying this repair kit notice it's very sunny it's very hot we recommend doing this while the temperatures are dropping while it's maybe shady but of course not going to rain even like getting towards the evening or just an overcast day works the best if you do it in the sun like this that's fine you just have to make sure that the concrete is really well hydrated and even though we're going to be using you know a pump up sprayer when i spray this into porous concrete watch how fast it evaporates right if i completely if i completely saturate that and i make it dark within about 10 seconds that water evaporates and gets soaked into the substrate simultaneously so what we like to do is we like to do what's called we like to satisfy the slab so we'll get like a cold garden hose out here and we'll pre-hydrate really bad areas especially if there's sun on it now the key to hydration is you don't want puddles it doesn't really matter how much water you spray on a slab you just don't want to be applying the concrete overlay when there's standing water so i'm going to put this on like a not a mist but a soaker setting i'm just going to cool this slab down and satisfy the concrete real quick be cautious of the tape we don't want to completely soak the tape especially when you're using a hose obviously you're going to get a little water on the tape try to avoid that because you don't want the tape you know peeling up and causing issues now even though i've sprayed the hose on it and it's already starting to dry i'm doing a couple things i'm putting moisture in the concrete to satisfy it a little bit but i'm also cooling down the slab so when i spray my hydration on it out of this small pump up sprayer it doesn't it doesn't evaporate as fast because i'm essentially cooling the slab down so we'll probably start on this side and i can even go to more of a you know like the flat control a little better okay now i've cooled down this slab quite a bit so now especially again on a hot day we need a dedicated guy just like every overlay job no matter what it is every repair job every overlay job you always got to have a dedicated guy with hydration so while tyler's doing this just notice the whole time i'll be behind him and i will be keeping this slab dark but no standing water i just i want to keep it wet but i don't want puddles and i'll be doing that the whole way and it'll be easier for me to keep up with the slab because i've pre-hydrated so on the background in the background that's what i'll be doing just in case you're wondering so tyler will start putting this down all right so i'm going to start one end trowel out both edges and just kind of work back and again make sure you guys are hydrating that's very very important we're going to be using the uh the steel trowel here basically going to ride on all the peaks of the concrete and it's going to let the material fill in all the low spots so just after one coat this should look pretty relatively flat now i recommend doing smaller beads we don't want to pour just so much out that we're fighting the material the whole time trying to move it and this is what it looks like i'm going to apply pressure hold it at an angle and just scratch this material as tight as i can get it now i'm not worried about little missed spots like this by the time we do our other coats all that stuff's going to fill in i'm just worried about getting the majority of it filled in cleaning out all my joints so i'll get a section done clean out these joints we don't want a bunch of product just sitting in there and you can see right here where it wasn't hydrated this has already dried out so that's why hydration is key everywhere that we had good hydration it's still wet it's still pliable and it's going to make it a lot easier for you if you pour beads down your edges so you have product already there so i'm not trying to move product up there to those edges once i do that angle this squeegee out a little just get enough to flow over there to fill that now that whole edge is done all i gotta do is clean it up [Applause] now i'll come over here to this edge clean that up and you can see how fast that goes by just pouring the product in the right spot so i like to just do sections at a time do a couple feet on my edges both sides work in the middle a couple feet on my edges both sides work in the middle and always make sure we're hydrating as we're going down now that pre-hydration that tim's doing behind me is going to save me a lot of time from having to spray the hydration because it's already kind of satisfied with the moisture i won't have to spray as much it's going to go a lot smoother so again poor bead down our edge do our edges first clean out all our edges our joints let me just focus on the middle now notice i'm getting the dry concrete you want to stop now like tim said before if you guys are doing this in cooler temps morning towards the evening where the sun's not just blaring down on the slab it's going to make it a lot easier for you so we do recommend doing this stuff when it's cooler out towards the evening towards the morning it's going to make your life a lot easier but this obviously shows you that you can do it when it's extremely hot out you just have to really be dialed in with your hydration so i'll show you guys a little trick say maybe you want to stop take a break clean your tools easy way to do that is i'm going to grab some blue tape now i can go to that joint stop get something to drink clean the tools whatever it is that you need to do and then we can kind of continue the process once we're ready so real easy way to kind of split it up into sections so you're not kind of stressing out but very very simple as long as you're hydrating good keeping that slab hydrated really well and have plenty people helping you now if you're stopping like this we definitely don't want to pour big piles out and have to clean a bunch up so when you get close to your stopping point just pour out less notice i'm not even bringing it all the way to the tape i'm not worried about it because this is a joint we'll be able to clean it out when we start again now what i'll do is i'll stop i can pull this tape now we have a spot to start when we're ready again and i'll go clean off the trowel all right so got the tools clean got a little water um now we're ready to rock again so first things first we got to hydrate never want to go on a dry slab since it's just soaking up so fast i'm spraying enough so it kind of pulls up but i know that it's going to soak right in [Music] [Music] [Music] now i'm getting close to the end so i want to make sure i'm not pouring a bunch of product out right that i have to clean up all right so there you go so there's our first coat i'm not worried about these little chunks i'm going to show you how to scrape those off any and even if you have some some trial marks or lines i think we had one like right here very minimal um so very forgiving first coat we're not worried about stuff like that we can address that before the next coat since this is already hard like right here i can show you we have a little trial line there we just scrape it off so not worried about any imperfections like that once it sets up we can knock any of those drips lines off real simple so we'll let this set up and then we'll show you guys the next next coat so before we apply our second coat like i was telling you when we were done yesterday we could take that that metal scraper that we used to apply it and we can knock off any of the chunks so i just like to go around like we got some chunks here just knocking those off we got a couple here and it's not a bad idea stuff like this just scrape the whole thing real quick so i'm just gonna brush off any of those chunks you can take a blower blow them off either way it works and then once we get this cleaned off tim's gonna start pre-hydrating again we wanna get this overlay satisfied with con moisture so it's not sucking it out of our overlay now we're doing it in the morning now so it's not as hot out and we do recommend doing these coats morning time evening time when it's not middle of the day sun's out super hot always good to do it in colder temperatures when the sun ain't out but again we always want to pre-hydrate get some moisture in that and so when we start applying it we don't have to spray as much water for hydration and it's not going to be soaking all that out of the overlay mix so it'll give us more working time make it a lot easier to use so that's one of the biggest keys to having a successful project is making sure you're hydrating well you're pre-hydrating before you even start so we'll go mix the product up now you're going to mix the the second coat same way you mix the first coat they all are mixed the same so we'll get that mixed up and then we'll show you how to do the second coat we're going to be using a little bit different tool to apply it but everything else is the same way pre-hydrate hydrate as we go pour out small beads and we'll show you guys that next all right so i'm gonna go over the tools real quick that first coat we scratched it with the the metal scraper right the metal blade um these are mainly for you know doing drywall stuff like that but they work great because they go on a pole we don't have to bend over um you can typically get these at home depot lowe's you can order them online readily available and then on these next two coats they're actually a lot easier to apply because we're just using a squeegee now you can get these squeegees at home depot lowe's this is a marshalltown it's called a magic trial they have them in the drywall section you can also order the craft squeegees from amazon those are usually what we use but we wanted to get the supplies from lowe's for this project so this is what you would get and again like i said it's going to go a lot easier because it's a little bit more forgiving it goes faster because we're using a squeegee versus a rigid uh metal scraper so again guys we hydrated we pre-hydrated and then we're also gonna hydrate as we're coating so tim's gonna do the hydration i'm going to pour out the product and you'll see this will go quite a bit faster now when we're doing the squeegee we still want to apply pressure hold it at an angle and i always like to get my perimeter done first and then just kind of focus in the middle so get on my edges clean them up but you can see the the crushed marble in the mix is putting it down all the same thickness so it's basically acting like a gauge rake because of that crushed marble so don't worry about pressing too hard you just want to kind of apply an even pressure as you're using it moving it around make sure we're cleaning out all our joints notice i'm always patting this so i'm not dripping every time i go back out there and i'm just making sure i'm not leaving any squeegee lines out there thicker thicker material spots now we just fill in the middle notice tim's constantly keeping this slab hydrated with with water so i'm not going in onto any dry concrete that's very vital when you guys are applying this stuff it's not a bad idea to have some paper out here to give you a little more free play we obviously do this quite a bit so we're pretty good at controlling it but last thing you want to do is make a mess and if you do get some product out there you can just spray it off with the hose pick the majority of it up and just kind of spray it off with the hose but notice i'm kind of working in sections at a time i don't i'm not running like 10 feet down my edge right i'm doing like two three foot sections doing my edges and in the middle so we're constantly finishing it as we go because if i would run down my edges maybe 10 feet by the time i finish all this and get to that spot back there it's going to already be setting up so we just kind of work sections at a time get it all the way done and then just move on down the line and if you guys watch when i when i'm trolling the beads out i'm always keeping that product kind of in the middle because i don't want it pushing out the side so if i have product towards the end see how it'll start to push out the side now i got to come back and clean that up so whenever i'm finishing the beads off or moving beads i'm making sure that product really isn't going past the middle of there and it'll never push out the the front of that and just like the first coat this is very forgiving if we have trial lines drips anything we can scrape those off we can sand those off before a final coat and it's nice because you're getting practice with the squeegee on this coat for the final coat and again it's not not that big a deal if we have any spots we gotta sand down or scrape off on this coat now if you have some maybe pitting that you're noticing some low spots like right here instead of pressing hard i can kind of come over that nice and light and it'll help fill in those low spots so that is an option if you notice any like maybe deeper spots that didn't get filled in as well on that first coat just go over it a little bit lighter and then just continue applying that pressure on everything else like i said on that last coat guys that first coat when we get close to the end we don't want to be pouring out big piles big beads it's good to kind of almost run it all the way out to see where you're at and then just pour small amounts that way we're not picking up a bunch of the product at the end so now we know we just need a little bit more to finish this off notice how thick that's gotten um if you guys run into that just take your drill mix it up again and it'll just re-agitate that material and it'll make it a lot more fluid so if it's starting to get a little thicker on you just by re-agitating this with the drill it's going to make it a lot more fluid easier to work with simple way to kind of thin that material out i'll just pull the excess from the joint up onto the blue tape and then we want to flatten off i'll leave this i'll leave that trowel line and drip out there and then show you how to address that on the next coat but very very simple so you can see it goes a lot faster than the first coat because it's just easier to move the product around with the squeegee so we're gonna let this set up now typical setup times on this you can do multiple coats in one day just depends on the temperatures but but theoretically about an hour to two hours you should be able to do another coat given the temperatures so just keep that in mind we'll let this set up and then we'll show you guys that next coat all right guys so we're getting ready to do our final coat of the overlay uh and we it's always good to re-tape on before your final coat two coats is fine overlay but you get three coats over that tape it can it can kind of be a pain to pull the tape so we like to do those first two coats pull the tape re-tape those spots and what we did is we already did these these long spots at that end we left this here so i could show you how to pull it um and i'll kind of just show you and depending on how thick you built up your your joints you might need a putty knife or a scraper or something but the best way to get that that piece off and then if we just start on the back and kind of fold it up and just keep working it until we get to that edge it usually wants to pop off nice and easy if we try to just rip it up and tear it off it's going to start tearing everywhere you're going to have a bunch of stuff left over so see we just kind of get it to that spot where it's tape ends and it's going to just pop off now you might have some spots where we have to use a putty knife or a scraper to get it up but as long as you're taping high like we showed you especially on these joints and that's why we don't want to tape down way down into the joint because you'd have to cut that out all right guys i'll grab a scraper show you how to get these thicker spots up all right guys so you can see the thick spots here what i'll do is i'll just take a razor blade and i'm not worried about cutting a perfectly straight line because we're going to tape again and i can get that a straight line with the tape so i'm just going to cut with the razor blade this thick stuff out like so make sure i don't see any tape in there right we don't want to leave any tape under there a little bit right here pop these up and now we can re-tape this maybe tape up we'll tape up here again obviously and then it won't be such a build up after this next coat we can pull that tape we should have a relatively nice straight line i mean granted we got some chunky stuff here right it's rough but we can get it as straight as we can using that tape so then we'll just clean this out now we can re-tape and again make sure you guys are taping high in these joints we like to go like right on the top edge now when we go to pull this tape it's going to pull really easy should give us a nice relatively straight line i mean like i said we got some pretty rough chunks here we're not going to get the greatest seal on this stuff that's all right we can clean that up later make sure we press that down good and then we like to either do paper or just two rows of tape and i'll show you how to do the paper because we're gonna be brooming this one and we'll be pulling the broom down from the top and we're going to want to put some paper down below here to so we're not getting any overlay past the tape and then same thing like i showed you before our second coat we can scrape off any chunks debris so we have some stuff right here we're just trying to knock any of those chunks off hi so after you knock off any chunks high spot stuff like that with the scraper if you have like thick spots that aren't scraping off you can always palm sand that with 80 grit sand that down but relatively simple we just want to make sure we hit those and if you guys are coating and you go over a chunk or something like that you can always scrape it off pull the trunk out and then keep going so don't worry about if you miss a spot right you want to try to get those first but sometimes you don't see them all i'm just going to bring this off now blowing it off is going to be be a lot quicker on larger projects just just blow everything off but i want to make sure we knock those chunks off the pad after we scrape get any dirt debris out of here all right since we're going to be brooming this that broom's going to want to pull a little material with it we're going to bring from the top down and what's going to happen is it's going to pull that material off here so what we're going to do is run paper all the way down this edge we want to make sure we press that down good that way we're not getting any product under that tape and then i'll just tack some spots since it's a little breezy out today [Music] it's not a bad idea just to paper off your whole area you're coating that's going to make it a lot easier you have to be as cautious when you're doing your edges picking your trowels up right so that's something you want to do that's a great idea kind of mask off your your perimeter all right so you can see we've we've re-taped everything this edge was re-taped like i showed you on that side and then what i'll do is i'll just run a piece of blue tape if you're not doing plas paper anything or masking it off it's always good to have at least two rows of tape and then i'm gonna use the blue tape again guys we like to use a blue tape when we can we use the yellow scotch tape here because we want to get a good tight seal on that mastic but i'm going to grab that blue tape like a machine that's how you do it so now we are ready to go so what i'm going to do first i'm going to pre-hydrate we'll mix up the material i'll pre-hide it again probably it's very important to pre-hydrate you can see how dry this is sun's out we recommend doing this stuff when it's morning time it's cool out evening time you really don't want to be doing this in the hottest part of the day but again hydration is key and i'll show you how we pre-hydrate just like those other steps and you'll see it's going to dry out real fast this is just kind of getting this slab satisfied with the water so when we start it's not going to want to suck all the moisture out of our overlay as fast so since i know we're going to mix after this it's going to be a little bit so i'm just going to kind of spray a decent amount now when we start we just got to make sure we don't have puddles of water or pooling up so if you guys have maybe some puddles or it's too wet take a blower blow it off take a that squeegee kind of squeegee around the water but i know we don't have any shade here the sun's out i want to make sure i hydrate this really really well and if you guys are wondering how to mix this third step every every step first step second step third step it's all mixed the same so just refer back to step one mixing um and all these steps are mixed the exact same way so if you want to go back and watch that just go to step one we go over how to mix so very very simple process and then we're going to apply it the same way with the squeegee but while it's still wet i'm going to run that broom across it to get that broom finish on it so you can see how much water i've sprayed and it just keeps soaking it up this is what we call pre-hydrating this is one of the most vital points of a successful overlay project try not to spray the tape too much also we don't want to soak that tape if you need to get to your edge just come down closer so you're not spraying so much on the edge all right so i'm happy with that everything looks wet now we don't have dry spots again it's going to dry out on us relatively quick before we start i'll pre-hydrate again and then once i get it to about this point we'll start pouring that mud that overlay and then we'll hydrate as we go as well so we'll show you guys that next okay guys so we're gonna apply this third step again hydration is key notice how the slab doesn't look dry it doesn't have standing water we're not puddles we have runs we're basically ready to go so what i'm going to do i'm going to show you two looks here you can you can leave it just the squeegee finish just just squeegeeing it off and leaving it's going to give you traction you just won't have that broom pattern the other option is i'm going to show you the broom so i'll start out and show you what the squeegee looks like and then we're going to show you how to broom this whole thing to kind of match sidewalks driveway stuff like that just keep in mind stuff like this sidewalk is very simple to broom if you guys are doing front entry ways driveways bigger bigger areas it's a little more complicated doing the broom so we do recommend just leaving leaving it with the squeegee finish it looks good and again it's going to give you that traction so we'll show you kind of both right here but again we recommend the squeegee knock this stuff off spread it out it's going to look really awesome so tim's going to hydrate for me because again we want to make sure it's always got hydration down with that water and then i'm going to spread this out with the squeegee and then put the broom in it that broom texture and i only want to work in sections so i'm going to get the top the bottom done get a couple feet out put that broom in it so guys i think i'm just going to finish this out to this joint and then we'll work back that way so we're not getting my shadow so you guys can kind of see what's going on a little better so if you guys are just going to leave it that that squeegee finish this is basically what it's going to look like it's going to have that texture it's going to have the the traction that the broom's going to give you but you don't have to do the added step which tim's going to show you now he's going to come through with the broom and he's just going to hold it low and pull it off that's going to give you that broom texture and that's why we put the paper down because it does pull some material off i think i'll coat this next square and then we'll work the other way that way i don't have to pick this material up so typically when you're brooming concrete you're spraying water on the broom on the pad we don't do that on the overlay so we're just brooming it we're not spraying any water and you just run it down straight as you can get it and then if maybe you had a crooked one you can go back and hit that one more time if needed so i'm just squeezing the material out and we want to get that broom on it right away we don't want to wait and notice how he's overlapping that previous section since i'm going to stop at this joint so we can flip around i'm just going to pour a little bit out so as soon as you can get a broom width right you don't want to broom if i got a bead right here you want to make sure i'm far enough away so you're not hitting that bead of material and then you want to get that in there as soon as you can and it's an easy way to stop and regroup stopping on joints even taping a running a piece of tape stopping like that if you guys want to stop maybe clean your tools maybe you have to mix more who knows joints are great for stopping start points and i'm not worried about if i have lines out here and stuff like that he's going to be brooming it anyways so after you do a couple passes it's good to just clean that broom off because it'll start to get a little thicker on that broom spray off the water ring that water out and then just continue brooming so again guys easy way to stop and start these joints and even putting a piece of tape there so you don't make a mess we can stop on the joint pull the tape and now we can kind of wash stuff regroup but again we're going to start at this end so my shadow is not over the pad and kind of making it so you can't see it as well all right so you can see how this has dried out we stopped right on that joint guys we got our tools clean filled up the sprayer maybe with water clean the broom off now keep in mind it's never good to leave the bucket of material sitting in the sun we do this a lot this is a small pad we're not really worried about it but always try to keep those buckets in the shade in a cool area don't just let them sit out in the sun they're gonna it's gonna dry out on you a little bit quicker and then if you're pouring this stuff out and it seems like it's getting thick in there put a drill in there re-agitate it that's gonna make it a lot more fluid and a lot easier to work with so we're ready to go so same thing i'm going to squeegee it out once i get enough spread out for the broom to come through that broom is going to come through right away and if you pour your beads out like that it's going to go a lot quicker when you're spreading it out because now i pretty much have material on all the edges the edges are what take the most time so now i can just run it over the edge a little all the way across both sides and notice how tim's not just waiting for the broom to go he's back here pre-hydrating still oh there's always something to do when you guys are doing the overlays whether it's hydrate pour a bead put that broom in it just make sure you have enough people when you guys start these projects all right so now i got to do clean up my edges get this material far enough back so tim can start brooming now notice we got a chunk right there guys i can take that scraper obviously you guys want to address these before but if you can get on it quick enough and we can knock that line down a little bit get those chunks up he can just run that broom down it one more time again you got to do it right away and what i'll do is i'll just get him a little product there now we don't have that big chunk sticking up easiest way to not really miss any of those or make sure they're flat enough is just run that scraper through the whole pad and if it looks like it's sticking up assume it's going to show and just maybe sand it down if you can't get it with the scraper 80 grit palm sander relatively fast way to get rid of imperfections notice how everything's kind of wet my edges are a little dry but i'm not going on a bunch of dry areas pour them beads down the edges tim's washing that broom again right we want to kind of make sure we're keeping the broom clean it's not getting all chunky on us notice i'm not going very far on my edges i want to just do a couple feet at a time that way everything's still wet when he puts that broom on it so the ideal amount of helpers you guys would want would be one guy hydrating one guy squeegeeing one guy brooming so that's kind of the the recommended amount of people you should have on projects obviously smaller stuff you wouldn't need as many but if it's your first time it's always good to have enough help and then obviously if we're not brooming it we don't necessarily need a guy running the broom so you could get away with maybe one last guy if you're just leaving it the squeegee finish like we have here all right so last pack is again we did these two then we turned around so our shadow's not in the way since this is our last pad we don't want to pour too much i want to try not to spray a lot of water on that pad that we just did so tim took the mud over he's mixing it up going to make it a lot more fluid just run that drill in there mix it up again we don't want to be wading like this so it's always good to have enough people have everything set up but if i wanted to i could broom this while he's doing that just overlap a little hold that thing low now that we're going up to a spot that we did we just want to get a little bead on that edge all the way down like so and then just clean that up now when he brooms up to this this is already setting up so he doesn't really want to hit that pad he just wants to be right in that joint and i'm just going to run any excess off onto this paper all right so i want to make sure we're cleaning off tools we're going to put some caution tape up obviously we don't want someone walking on this it is a sidewalk people walk around here so we want to make sure we caution it off so people know not to walk on it and then you want to make sure if you guys are going to do that final coat that you're able to apply the sealer the top coat the same day because what will happen is people walk on they got footprints right it's not a sealed surface so it's porous it's prone to staining before that sealer gets on it so make sure if you're coating that final coat you're able to apply that sealer so we'll let this set up and then we'll show you guys how to do the sealer so we're basically ready to seal but i want to show you guys an option um and it's actually a good practice to do before you seal is we're going to saw cut all these joints these hand cut joints and that's going to give us a little free play when the slabs move during freeze thaw cycle stuff like that they're not hitting each other and kind of chipping chunks out so that can happen now it's real simple we're just going to take a little small angle grinder get these at home depot and then just a concrete blade for cutting concrete okay and i'm just going to run this down the middle here and that's going to open up a gap here so when this slab is kind of moving from those cycles it's not hitting itself and it's more prone to chipping so that'll give it that little eighth inch free play to kind of move expand and contract during those freezing thought cycles so i'll hit the joints we'll probably hit a couple here to show you i might hit some out there real quick i'm going to be wearing a mask eye protection some ear protection and then i'll just have tim blow the blower to just kind of keep the dust out away from us make sure your feet are clean because if you walk out here with dirty feet you're going to leave a footprint and you have to wipe that off before you seal so i just have kind of a wet rag here get my feet clean and then i can walk out here and what i'll do is i'll cut up and it's going to shoot the dust behind me and then he'll just blow the blower at me and it'll keep that dust kind of behind me and you want to always make sure these are off you never want to set them down on a finished pad go plug them in sometimes these are locked on they'll start spinning you'll wind up cutting a slit in the pad so just kind of keep that in mind if you're gonna set it down on on a finished project and then go plug it in or something you want to make sure these things ain't going to just kick on so that's that's basically it guys we're just trying to create a separation gap here so if these ever move and kind of hit they're not prone to chipping out these chunks so it's always good to do that it's not you know you don't have to do it but um and then if you have uh maybe you're doing a larger driveway or something you can get bigger saw blades a bigger angle grinder it'll cut a lot faster but small stuff like this real quick you saw how fast that was and when you start just start in the middle of your joint sink it a little bit and then just keep it sank down in there and just let it kind of do its thing and that'll help you keep cutting it straight all right guys we're getting ready to show you how to mix our wb sealer so i'll kind of go over the mixing process very very simple single component these buckets you'll just have to slit the sides right because it's a a pour spout lid so if you can see they have these little notches you'll just take a razor blade kind of slit those open and that will allow you to pop this lid off because we do want to mix this a little before we get started just in case anything's settled in there and we're going to be using just a paddle wheel drill i'm going to put it on low obviously it's pretty full so we don't want to splash it around i don't have any build up on the bottom of here so it's probably fine so we'll just mix low speeds 20 to 30 seconds and then we'll wash this off with just water easily cleans with water that way we can reuse this paddle wheel all right so this is basically ready to go we'll just pop that lid back on and then pull the spout off it's got a little seal here we're going to pop off and now it's ready ready to pour in our sprayer so things you'll need just just to drill to mix it you can mix it with the stir stick as well you just want to make sure there's not anything on the bottom there and then always good to use a strainer when you're pouring into sprayers just in case there is something in there we don't want to clog that sprayer up and we really recommend the cheap these are just cheap ace from ace hardware store pump up sprayers they work really good they spray that fine mist and that's kind of what we're looking for so i'll kind of show you the process of pouring in we're going to use that funnel and then you can pour this into another bucket to get less in there but if you tilt these backwards and pour out of them backwards it's it'll pour out a lot more evenly it won't start splashing and notice how i didn't fill it up all the way it's about about right here we want to if you fill it up too full you can't get enough pressure in there to spray it good you always have to pump like every few seconds so try not to fill it all the way up you can hear that release valve go so that tells me i got the max pressure i can get in there and then we always want to test spray so it's spraying at a stream right now you want to get this spraying a nice fine mist just like that and we're basically ready to go so again guys clean your feet if you see footprints out here something someone walked on just take a wet rag you can wipe those out just real quick doing some kind of circular motions i'm about a foot and a half two foot off the the concrete here got a little bit of a breeze but this will dry extremely fast and we can just keep doing multiple coats so there's our first coat again we're doing two to three coats you want to do that second coat within about a half an hour or once it goes dry you can kind of see where it's right where i first started still a little wet here but once it all kind of goes you don't see that moisture in the in the surface we can apply that second coat so you guys can see kind of some bare spots that i missed you're going to get that the next coat every every coat you do it's going to be better and better so don't don't try to hit those as you're going we're just trying to do these coats thin like i said before guys do this stuff when it's when it's cooler out temperatures are cooler we recommend doing the your final coat morning and then that evening applying the sealer because again you want to do it the same day so same thing again real quick coats we want to make sure we're getting all the way to our edges small stuff like this relatively easy but it's always good to take time mask everything off then you don't have to waste your time holding cardboard stuff like that so we'll let this set up for about a half an hour or until it's dry and then we'll apply that third and final coat and then this is basically done we can pull the tape once everything's dry um so we'll show you that third and final step next all right guys so we're getting ready to do that final coat and same thing we just apply all these three coats the same exact way thin to wind make sure we're keeping this wand above the ground a little bit circle motions and that's all we got to do just make sure that sprayer's nice and pumped up so you're getting good pressure spraying that nice fine mist get that even coverage so there it is so this this is basically done once this completely dries out we can start pulling all the tape cleaning everything up and then you'll probably want to give it a 24 to 48 hours before you drive on it let everything kind of cure out the overlay is going to be at its hardest point after seven days it's fully cured so just keep that in mind but we'll show you pulling tape and all that stuff next all right guys so i'm going to show you how to pull the tape and you're going to see why we recommend re-taping before that final coat most of this tape should pull up real simple if we were to not re-tape and we had three layers of overlay on that tape it can be kind of a pain so just remember to pull pull that tape and re-tape before your final coat get everything cleaned up and then it makes cleaning up a breeze so we'll start off get this secondary tape up we'll pull this outer spot get this paper up first so pulling tape if you re-tape is relatively simple again we want to get a paper kind of up so once you get the paper kind of removed and same thing we're just folding it into it until it gets to that edge and you just kind of fold it back and forth and if it's pulling easy just apply a little pressure a little tension on it and pull that up and you can see how nice of a a seal that's leaving us there nice crisp edge so when you're on your your sidewalk here same thing guys start from the back of the tape and just kind of move that up it starts pulling easy just apply that tension just like that so we'll finish cleaning this up and then we'll show you guys um how amazing that sealer is and some final footage so if you guys are having a hard time pulling the tape maybe you had some thick uh overlay in maybe a joint or something or where you tape you had a lot of overlay on it just take a razor blade and you can cut it out just get it down in there and then when we go to pull it and you can see all the nasty residue this tape leaves that's why we like the blue tape we just we just knew it wouldn't stick the blue tape wouldn't stick as well to the mastic that's why we use this tape but if i try to pull this without cutting and you can kind of see because it's got a little thick here even with that one coat if it's it's pulling good here but if it gives you problems and starts tearing like that just cut it cut it before you pull it and then you'll see how nice it'll pull perfect just like that so that's an option right there if you guys are having a hard time pulling some tape or anything like that just cut it out [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] do you

Channel: Leggari Products

Views: 693,243

Rating: 4.7718091 out of 5

Keywords: easy concrete, resurface, leggari, concrete resurfacing, how to resurface concrete, concrete surface repair, resurface driveway, resurfacing concrete, driveway resurfacing, how to repair concrete, concrete repair kit, how to repair cracks in concrete, concrete repair, concrete pro tips, repairing concrete, tips for repairing concrete, pro tips for repairing concrete, concrete fix, how to fix your concrete, how to resurface cocnrete, easy concrete countertops, how to concrete

Id: K3y0r_VI0iE

Length: 71min 19sec (4279 seconds)

Published: Fri Jul 17 2020