Carbon Fiber Epoxy Table Step-By-Step

in this project we use faux carbon cloth and heat-resistant epoxy to transform wood into a custom work surface this project came out outstanding think that's gonna be awesome man holy cow learn right now from start to finish how we created this custom shape from scratch from our wood shop to our showroom let's do this remember when you subscribe to our channel click on the red subscribe button and be sure to ring the bell so you get notified every time we have a new video thanks again here we go to build the core of our table we're gonna use 3/4 inch MDF medium-density fiberboard will cut this to the size of our cloth and decide the shape after it's cut [Music] carbon-fibre table what shape do you make it let us know in the comments below what shape do you make a carbon fiber table this is how much carbon fiber we have with an overhang what do we do [Music] black half better than a square I did totally do I kind of like that man okay first draft yeah nailed it I need a new jigsaw no Black & Decker is on this last leg I think I got this at Walmart fifteen years ago [Music] [Applause] [Music] so you can see I didn't stay on that line a lot I used it as my inspiration but I wanted to maximize the width of the cloth that we had so I went pretty big I got a little bit of from my jigsaw I'm gonna get a sander make it smooth let's do it [Music] [Music] I'm just progressively going through some sandpaper to make my MDF smooth to finish with about 220 grit I really want to double the edge up okay so that's why sanded right now is because I want to smooth edge so I could run a bearing router and it'll follow that nicely but what I got to do is not try to make curves underneath I'm gonna just rip strips connect them the best that I can and then will router that overhang it'll make a perfectly flush drop edge make sense I'm gonna get my pin gun with 23 gauge pin nails and some tight bond to wood glue and we'll make our drop edge where's the pen gun there it is pinata [Music] so I'm going to make sure that my wood overhangs my table so I don't want it flush I'm gonna bring it just over so I can router it make sure there's no void there I'll trace the line this will tell me where to glue my piece and we'll shoot it down [Music] just flip that over [Applause] [Music] you want to keep that clean so your router will follow it really nicely [Music] there we go let's just go right around that perimeter the combination of wood glue and pin nails is a great long-term whole next piece [Music] it needs to be a little bit steeper see that's plenty of meat there that's what you want [Music] let's do it we'll utilize our straight router bit with a top bearing to create a nice flush cut we're gonna do multiple passes so that we get a really clean edge [Applause] [Music] I love using foam as my table finish surface for my cutting and router in areas I like using it because foam doesn't hurt my router bits it doesn't prematurely wear them out plus it supports my project a hundred percent as I was router in this these pieces didn't chip out the weight of this hanging piece it didn't just pull my piece apart right at the end everything was supported I really like using foam as that tabletop base look at that I got my drop edge ready if that's not a custom shape I don't know what is okay from the beginning here we're using our 50 grit metal sanding disc will then switch to our random orbital sander and we'll make a nice flat smooth edge and be ready to start applying our carbon fiber cloth [Music] alright let's switch out our router bit to a round over right there we use that one alright what I like to do is test this on a scrap first so I'll grab a scrap of MDF I'll make sure that I got my router set the proper depth I don't want to lip on that so I'm going to adjust this just a little bit more I [Music] like to utilize a quarter inch roundover a bit with a bottom bearing so I could follow my shape and create a nice eased edge so everything will flow properly all right where we got our drop edge we did a really cool job you know it would have been a lot easier to just laminate two pieces together but sometimes you're gonna need a drop edge where you have a big island with the radius and you're gonna need to create a drop edge in this case we created a very complicated drop edge no problem I hope you guys enjoyed that content wherever I splice or butt joint pieces together I do have wood glue in those joints but if you have any kind of a void or anything like that I'm gonna pre fill that with some super glue and accelerator it'll dry in ten seconds and then I'm gonna sand it okay and that's going to give me a perfect fill in this case I really don't need to do that because I'm covering this with with cloth and so it's gonna hide anything like that but let's say you were just gonna paint and primer and then he pox you this you wouldn't want to get everything either bond out or super glue those joints but get every joint nice and flush first let's go grab our cloth and see what it's going to look like over the top make a decision on what color we're gonna go away all right we got red and black I really like both of these you know the black is really traditional it's it's kind of what that look is the red is is really kind of new-age I liked it a lot let me know in the comments below what would you choose black or red I've seen a lot of black I think I'm leaning towards red we might use this black on another project but let's lay it over our shape and see what's going to happen here save your old epoxy mixing containers you'll find all kinds of uses if you check this out over here they're great to hold screws they're really heavy-duty I also use them to lift things up off the deck if I want to test how this fiber is gonna lay over my piece here I don't want it flush to my plywood I want to bring it up in the air and then droop it down let's check this out I really think that's going to be I think that's gonna be awesome man holy cow look at that man I like that [Music] [Music] I'm very excited for this for the first step in the epoxy we're gonna utilize our quick coat we're gonna apply this with a squeegee on the raw MDF we only need a thin coat because this cloth is going to stick to a nice tacky epoxy and then we're gonna squeegee off any excess to get a tight fit we'll roll it over that preformed edge and we're excited to see the results we only needed about one ounce per square foot we'll use any excess on the edges be sure to coat those edges because that's what's gonna hold the cloth nice and tight I'm just making sure I got enough epoxy on the edges I don't want any dry spots where the the fiber doesn't want to stick so just rubbing that out by hand and then I'm gonna droop our cloth over I kept my cloth in the same direction that it was sitting on the piece I had it laid out where I wanted it so I kept that I'm gonna have just a little bit more epoxy here but I can just rub put the rest of this over that cloth and it's gonna seep through anyways it's just gonna be saturated on the bottom as well as the top let's do it this is gonna be really fun holy cow yeah it's biting really good it's I like that watch I mean it's definitely easy to apply I like that round over boy that makes that easy this coat of epoxy will be ready for the next step in about three hours because it is our quick coat and it's fast drying all right what I'm doing now is just dragging any of the excess epoxy off of the surface to get a nice tight fit and I'm not going to leave any excess underneath that might cause a wrinkle or a hump and it's working out great I'm really glad that I routed those edges with that quarter inch roundover bit I think it's making this process a lot easier I could really just envision a designer falling in love with this idea I mean you could take cloth or a print or a decal or whatever it is you want you could do this and then router in a company's logo maybe they manufacture something super industrial or you know you can really make fun signage and the possibilities are endless with this technique it's just it's just fun I it's something totally totally different than applying different color it's already kind of done for me it's just getting it tight to my project and and working it out you can feel the quick coat starting to get more gel on it it's retaining that a little easier so I think sitting here and babysitting this is a good idea - I really like quick coat on this step but just apply it thin remember thin to win [Music] all right it's been a few hours this sucker is it's not even tacky anymore I really like it it's totally ready to go you can see it's still really pliable it's really fresh it was about 2 and 1/2 hours ago that we finished up we're gonna apply our normal stone coat countertop epoxy we're gonna use our 1/8 by 1/8 square notch trowel will apply that will chop it will torch it just like a normal flood coat and we'll probably have to apply a couple of coats before all of the texture of this fiber is gone so let's get started on that first flood coat that's working another thing you want to do with your torch turn it upside down below everything out of it so when I come to the fresh epoxy there's no dust that spits into it Part B then Part A be sure to slow the drill down rub the bottom and the sides of the bucket then pull the drill attachment up off the bottom of your mixing container and go ahead and pick up the speed be sure to scrape the edges and you'll get a really good mixture we mix our normal stone coke countertop epoxy with the drill paddle we do it for about two minutes our room temperature is ideally 70 to 80 degrees let's apply the epoxy we'll travel it out we'll chop it will torch it three times make sure it's clear [Music] I'm gonna mix everything right here on the surface again Wow this is gonna look so awesome holy cow this is really cool oh my gosh it's like it's like a lens because it's getting oblong and then laying out but it's really 3-dimensional this is awesome and you see that okay let's try this sucker out I'm not gonna go all the way to the edge just yet I'm just gonna start getting everything out even this is our first flood coat we use three ounces per square foot for our flood coat and our 1/8 by 1/8 square notch trowel this leaves the perfect amount of material on our surface chop it baby here we go this is awesome I really like the shape I'm glad we did that utilize the Chop brush to break any surface tension and brush your edges out like a pro those edges stuck really good for me what I'm gonna do is build up a couple coats and then I'll cut that flush before my final coat but I'm not worried about getting that cloth off right now [Music] alright guys how do you get bubbles out we're gonna use the torch and we're gonna simply sweep the surface you can use a heat gun you can use different types of solvents we really like the torch because it works so fast and you're not introducing solvent to the surface that flood coat was super easy I'm gonna finish with my hand across these edges this surface is just beautiful I love it super easy to do we're gonna let this set up and we'll come back tomorrow we'll sand it and we'll do an additional flood coat all right it's all dry what we're gonna do is take this table and go cut off the apron the excess fiber that's hanging down we're gonna snip it off sand it and we're ready for our next flood coat let's do this [Music] [Applause] a metal cutoff wheel in conjunction with our angle grinders the perfect tool to remove the excess cloth from our project here we go [Music] we did an initial rough cut and then we come back and trim it nice and flush as a second pass finally we finished sand it so everything's nice to the touch we'll switch to our random orbital sander and sand the surface and the edges of our project with 220 grit sandpaper we do this to promote a mechanical bond between each epoxy coat be sure to wipe the dust a unique project here but no matter what kind of project you're doing with epoxy whether it's countertops or or this kind of a project the second clear coat is the same your gonna sand you'll make sure you get that good mechanical bond you'll wipe the dust and then you're ready to apply that next coat when you go to sand the edges do the round overs by hand and turn the speed down on the sander so you don't burn through any of those edges alright guys here's a pro tip for you always finish sanding the surface last I put some hand scratches in the surface because of sanding that round over and I'm going to remove that with the random orbital sander right now we'll finish sand with 220 grit [Music] let's go put a clear coat on this thing and see how it looks sweet okay let's go get some epoxy you can use a heat gun too if you'd like don't forget your gloves either the reason that we use a 1/8 by 1/8 square notch trowel when applying our epoxy is because it leaves the proper amount on the surface with no guessing I'm gonna trowel it out and then I'll chop it to remove any trowel marks even though we're doing a clear coat you can get an iridescent evidence that you trowel this so the chopping will remove any of that evidence it'll lay out crystal clear it'll look smooth as glass and your clear coat will be very professional [Music] that is so beautiful all right what I'm gonna do now is just scrape any excess out of the bucket into the mass of epoxy and the reason I put it right in the middle is because then I'll use my trowel to mix any of that that I scraped into the mass so I get a good mix we're gonna try this out close to the edges I'll get everything even and then I'll push it over the edge don't go over the edge too soon and waste any epoxy remember you only need 3 ounces per square foot on your flood coats that's part a and part b combined equaling 3 ounces per square foot we've now pushed everything right up to the edge we're gonna use everything leftover push it over the edge that's going to really give us our material to brush on those edges you'll have these drips and spots coming down and that's your reservoir to do your edges be sure to prime your brush so you don't get a dry brush starting when you chop because you'll actually pull more epoxy up there and it could leave a little divot because there's not enough poxy to level out also remove any loose bristles before you prime that brush when you chop the surface you're gonna chop it just as you would when you did color you're gonna do it randomly not in rows and not in a geometric fashion just be random about it and everything is going to lay out nice protip guys if you do everything consistently if you have a pattern about the way that you do things you your jobs are gonna come out more consistent more professional when you know what's going to happen you can predict the future because of experience that's when you get real professional results chopping the surface also guarantees that I'm mixing it one final time I mixed it in the bucket I used to drill I scrape the sides I mixed it on the surface I use that trial that helped mixed it and then finally I'm mixing it with the brush those three punches together one two three really give you a good consistent finish that you know is mixed properly no sticky spots all right let's do those edges now as you can see everything is rolled down those edges and we're just gonna use this epoxy to brush along those surfaces I'm gonna grab my torch but the first thing I'm gonna do is wipe my hands I don't want to get epoxy that's on my gloves on my torch because those buttons will fill up with the epoxy and it's really hard to use your torch at that point so take a second clean your hands and I'm not in a hurry because I have plenty of working time I'm not worried this is gonna set up on me really fast [Music] now that I have those initial bubbles popped I'll wait a couple of minutes and I'll do it again and then a third time I'll check make sure there's no air left in the surface and left in that epoxy I can see a little bit of fog because there's a little bit of air in there now after that initial popping when it's all these big bubbles you're not going to have that happen again it's going to be tiny bubbles but don't let that fool you there's still air in the surface so practice on sample boards know that you get that air out all right guys let's do a recap what did we learn from doing this project if I were to do this again I would probably take two pieces of MDF and laminate them together draw out my shape and cut it as one piece that would've been faster than creating a drop edge but it was a challenge to create a drop edge I hope you've got some value out of that so it teaches you in the future on any curve or any abnormal shape it's still possible to create that drop edge when necessary another thing that I learned is this cloth is fun to work with I could take this on a river table and maybe put a modern technique into classic furniture I could I could bring a piece of carbon fiber across something to give it that design element to take your project make it unique and take it to the next level this is a fun thing to do it wasn't very hard I learned that I will most definitely be working with this again if you liked this video give us a thumbs up let us know in the comments below what did you like about it and what did you not like about it visit us any time at Stone Cook countertops calm and we'll see you on the next video [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] you

Channel: Stone Coat Countertops

Views: 8,379,947

Keywords: epoxy, epoxy countertop, art resin, epoxy table, epoxy resin, epoxy resin table, diy epoxy, leggari, countertop epoxy, stone coat countertops, stone coat, diy crafts, resin table top, concrete countertop, granite countertop, how to, how to epoxy, Carbon Fiber Epoxy Table Step by step, carbon fiber epoxy table, carbon fiber epoxy, carbon fiber wrap, carbon fiber cloth, how to install carbon fiber, red carbon fiber epoxy project, how to aplply carbon fiber epoxy, diy carbon

Id: CcGp0vwvyv0

Length: 25min 18sec (1518 seconds)

Published: Tue Mar 19 2019