Two Waterblocks... One GPU...

I forgot I was gonna say sure take your working gaming experience to the next level with the ViewSonic xg340c2k Ultra wide high-end display the xg340c2k 34 inch 100 Hertz Ultra wide monitor features HDMI 2.1 AMD freesync premium Pro 1000r curved screen Visa display HDR 400 and one millisecond response time for the ultimate immersive gaming experience and take control of multiple devices with KVM support while also taking full control of your display via the elite display controller to see the full list of specs and features follow the sponsored Link in the description below all right so this is the active backplator the ABP version of the Eek Vector 2 water blocks and this this and this this is an RTX 4090 strix card from Asus so this is actually my best friend's graphics card that's gonna be going into his build that I'm gonna be building for him I had this block left over from when I couldn't decide for my personal rig that you guys have already seen me do if I was going to use the ADP or the non-abp backplate well I ended up using the non-abp specifically because of the layout I was choosing um this would not have fit my motherboard and I'll show you at the end of this video after it's together why there's certain motherboards this will not work with and you must be aware of but I've never installed an ABP or active backplate essentially it's two water blocks that sandwich your graphics card so typically you have a water block that goes in the front and it attaches to the card and then you have a back plate that goes on the back side that often acts as like a heat spreader if you will it's got thermal pads under there it touches vital heat points in the back of the graphics card back of the mosfets vrms the core itself maybe the memory pads Maybe and then that heat gets transferred to the back plate and just spreads it across which will soak some of the heat out of the card and help give you cooling on both sides remember heat goes 360 degrees in Direction so if you're super cooling one side of the graphics card and you're not super cooling the other the theory there is that you could have better thermal performance if you were actively cooling both sides so backplate designs over time have evolved from just being kind of like a support piece to help with bowing of the graphics card to passive cooling giving you some sort of like I said heat dissipation across the piece of the back plate itself to some of them actually being thinned like a heat sink and as long as you had air movement over that then you'd be able to get some sort of cooling the problem is when people go with high-end water cooling stuff they tend to not have active airflow happening around that area of the case because it's all the Heat's being taken to the radiators and then exhausted there and there's not an air a lot of airflow happening in the middle so EK came up with this design for this generation which basically adds a graphics or a water block to both sides unfortunately it also doubles the price of the componentry because at the time of making this video right now on the website it's 454 dollars see I had 500 to a graphics card that already costs around two grand plus depending on the time of this video fluctuating prices still you have a 2500 solution which to be honest is still better than the three thousand dollars people were paying for 30 90s during the height of the scalping era but I digress it's kind of frustrating as somebody that's a water cooling Enthusiast to see a 454 dollar water cooling solution for a graphics card because the standard water blocks that we were used to seeing from Ek for years would run about 115 to 125 dollars depending on the card solution uh and it made sense at that time because if it's the highest end card and you're looking to do water cooling it costs money to manufacture this stuff at 100 100 to 125 dollars wasn't unreasonable but now you're adding essentially the price of like a 30 70 TI or 307 D2 a card that's already super expensive because of the the cost of water cooling these days is why you don't see water blocks for 60 series cards I see people all the time they're like I can't find a water block for my 2060 or my 30 60 or my 36 DTI it's because it makes no sense to spend 100 plus dollars to actively cool with water a mid-range graphics card when realistically you should have taken that extra money and just got a better card that's what you should have done so spending money on like something like this on something super top tier is about the only place it makes sense I think they have this also for a 4080 personally to me that doesn't make sense because you should be spending the 500 on a higher end either 4080 or just go For Broke literally and go for a 40 90 with that extra cost moving on let's see what we've got inside the box and then we'll kind of do an installation video like I did with my particular card and then I do have the EK water block website pulled up on my laptop because all their manuals now are through PDF and QR code which is kind of nice because then if there is a manual change or a revision your manual won't be out of date it'll always be up to date as long as they stay up to date jeez it's like a the plastic is negligible I'm gonna leave it on [Applause] 2243 grams five pounds of water block right here um I have to know now I don't remember how much does the 4090 weigh 2.471 so it weighs almost as much as the card itself the PCB stops here so you go from a solution that doesn't fit in many cases to one that would fit in any case with you know where the PCB stops and that's as big as the card will be this is this is going to be the size of the card now you can see the difference right and it's still pretty thick you don't reuse this because the block does tie into this plate so you use the the rear plate that comes with it you get a few things here I showed this before before I wasn't sure what this was for I now know this is how you're expected to unplug the 12 volt high power connector because it's recessed in the block so you expect it to stick this in there and pop it and then you can pull it out and then we received um this is just a wrench for turning some of their hex nuts for like their caps and then we receive the tools that we need to actually install the block which is a couple different size Allens but I will be using my iFixit kit because this is way easier by having some dexterity of using this rather than using this so I fix it's highly recommended to have in your tool kit yes they are a sponsored but you know what they're a cool ass sponsor to have because how can you argue with tools right so these are gonna be all of our thermal pads holy cow if we don't use all of these but if we did 126 grams it's 126 grams of thermal pads now you can see you get your two caps which in my opinion they should have been black because of everything else on here kind of being black which would be nice you get some extra you see those what look like oval O-rings right there those are extra O-rings specifically for this top piece right here so this top piece right here mounts down on both of these blocks it's essentially just installing two water blocks which is kind of neat so you see where this is sticking down right here this this is essentially like where the piece the PCB socket is going to be for the PCI Express slot you can see how much it sticks out both sides the problem is if you have a graphics or a motherboard that has a heat sink block right there next to the top slot it fits right up against the socket it's not gonna it's not gonna fit so modern motherboards this is the Maximus extreme z790 board an Intel Asus board a board I was considering using for my friend but with all the Asus stuff lately I'm really highly considering going with a different brand it only has one 16x pcie5 slot this is a 8X down here and I remember if it's I don't think it's pcie gen 5. I could be wrong but I don't want to mount it down here for obvious reasons but you see how this block which also has the OLED our LCD screen I don't know if it's a letter LCD but anyway this is a display right here it's right up against that slot so it won't like it will seriously impact that right there now you would need a motherboard that doesn't have anything right up against the slot let me get a motherboard that it probably will work on so you can see the spacing now between anything that would interact which would be this guy right here uh because of the fact they pushed this down a little bit on the MSI board was this MSI Edge whatever it is another z790 board MPG Edge this is an m.2 slot though so this would not be a slot you would really want to utilize with a rigid tube build because of the fact that to get to it if you ever had to maintenance this drive or replace it you'd have to drain your Loop and move your graphics card out of the way but you can see now that would clear just fine see that there's even some more room there so keep that in mind you're either going to have to go vertical Mount and potentially cover something cool and the vertical Mount also is in the way of all of our m.2 drives so that's a it's a risk we just have to take if we want to use the active back plate so cooling benefit I don't know to be honest and I'm not going to be able I don't know if it cools any better because I don't have well I don't have anything to compare it to yet I have my RTX 4090 in my system at home but the thing is unless I put the card in the exact system at home to have the exact same cooling set up so I have a perfect a b comparison I'm not sure yet if this is going to give real tangible results or just be a gimmick because sure I know what the temperatures and stuff look like on this card being air but I can't compare this to this to say it really worked I have to compare this to the non-active backplate block to see if it made any difference at all or if it's just a cool nice to have because bragging points I don't know all right let's install it it's always interesting when I have a card that still has plastic on it and I'm taking it apart this card was intended to be water cooled from day one this is going to be my best friend's build his first super high-end like rigid tubed water cooled system he is like completely already lose something is there a hole in the bag oh yeah there's a hole in the bag in the bottom BK WTF man because that's hard to say it's always interesting taking a graphics card that is like brand new with plastic on it and has actually been fired up like once to test I'll always test yourself to make sure it works prior to doing water blocks and stuff that's just good practice uh okay so on the strix card you have to remove all these screws in the face right here first which is pretty easy they're just Phillips screws I also have a pro tip for you guys when it comes to not losing any of this Hardware if you ever need to send this back for warranty reasons or you sell it you want to put the cooler back on put the screws back where they came from put those screws back where they came from more so help me so help me sorry that was a monster scene and by the way I have this little screwdriver which came with I think it was an old Asus something or another anyway they fit perfectly with the uh I fix it bits I fix it come on I think you guys have one in development or something let's get it already so this way you won't lose any of them there we go so now those won't be lost I still think this is one of the easiest cards ever to work on because I need to take these off because they're in the way I really didn't Savor that did I so I'm kind of keeping these sort of laid out where they go like the smallest longest screws are around the perimeter of the back plate because I want to put these back in their appropriate spot that way I'm not mixing up screws but realistically it's like a clam shell taking this card apart once you take away all the perimeter screws then work your way to these two screws after these two screws were off you do the four screws around the socket that's it the whole cooler will come off is a single like the back plate and then there's a couple of fan wires you have to undo and that's it okay these screws these four screws right here are under heavy tension because it is a spring that is a back plate retention so it's intended to have a certain amount of mounting pressure and that is exactly what this is doing so I'm going to start them with the handling these screws are captive by the way so they're not going to go flying off the bracket this is what gives us the mounting tension and it was something that was needed to be put back on Nvidia cards with 30 series whereas amd's always had it because of the size of the die and as you tighten down it comes down flat so that's what gives you the retention so now be careful as you pry up from the rear there are thermal pads on there which is why it kind of got stuck as you can see now that is the size of the PCB so we do have a couple wires we have to unplug these are for the RGB and the fans they're right here and right here so again when you go to take this off double check if the back lights off all your screws are off but if your back plate won't come off make sure you check that you're not missing a screw like back here or any in the middle when we take it off just leave this cover on the PCB socket right here that way you're not getting finger oils and stuff all over it just leave that on and then just kind of pry up it's kind of a scary sound that's because you're hearing all that thermal paste uh and the thermal pads which is a lot of them creaking it's normal you just gotta kinda see that took some Force but don't just yank it off because [Music] check it out there's those wires right there so kind of hinge it away at the back there's little Clips here you have to depress see it's got like a little alligator clamp on there once you get that one off you can flip it backwards squeeze and release they're color coded so they can't be wrong and there you are there is your RTX 4090 which if you think about the amount of power and performance this has and the size that it is it's pretty impressive so anyway there's that we'll set this aside for a moment someplace safe because now we need to put all of this crap back on in the exact reverse order and this is a rectangle by the way it's no longer Square so if it doesn't reach just rotate it I'm even leaving the thermal paste just on the cooler right now because I need to get this all back on so we don't lose any of the screws I used to keep them in a little baggy taped to the block or the cooler until I got to the point to where I could not remember where the screws went a year two or five later when I would try and go back to air cooling so now they're all back in their spot there's nothing to worry about nzxt's build is a quick and easy way to get a new gaming computer build a gaming PC on your budget using the built-in configurator and see exactly how your favorite games will perform don't want to spec it yourself then choose from bld's pre-configured player PC systems designed to fit your needs and budget to see the full lineup and specs of the NZXT BLD player series pre-built PCS follow the sponsored Link in the description below so I had to put those screws back in here which you're not supposed to do when it was still together only because I forgot the this uh new bracket is what has to go in there but I'm going to go ahead and reuse the black screws because they have a tapered head on this bracket just like the other one you can see you got one two three four of them which go right into uh the DisplayPort slash HDMI Mount there cool and then you have to worry about those screws so the excess screws are still in the cooler here here and here which is fine because we do not use those on this bracket so now all of our screws are going to be accounted for nothing's going to get lost later when we're trying to put it back together you can see the it now just looks like a 40 90 without a port on the or a slot sticking out of the bottom because like Phil said we were removing the PCB from the cooler not the other way around also too in that last break we found out that iFixit does have a motorized screwdriver and why they haven't sent this one yet is beyond me so I think everyone needs to go to ifix's Twitter and be like yo why haven't you sent GS2 since one of their electric screwdrivers considering we have the best ads on the internet for them 40 90 for sale just don't look at it from any other angle hey Jay how come those RAM chips don't have a thermal pad because some stuck to the cooler and some stuck to the PCB so I forgot to pull those off the PCB and put them back on the cooler so anyway see how there's some still sitting on here and some still sitting on there be careful as you pull this off if they tear it's actually not the end of the world but anyway we want to leave these where they go just want to be careful there's lots of stuff sticking up off the PCB like smds and stuff that see how that just tore it's actually not a problem it's probably gonna tear because it's pretty stuck stick your finger in the thermal paste like I just did it's like when you wipe too regressively hit like if you've ever wiped too aggressively and you rip a hole in the TP see if it tears it's fine you can still smoosh it back into a pad which is perfectly fine which situation you don't don't do that with the toilet paper just get a new piece no just get a new piece so the next thing we need to do is clean off any of the residue still on the RAM chips uh and the obviously the thermal paste off of the die you'll notice there's no RAM chips on the back of the 4090. that was a 30 90 thing so we got 24 gigs of RAM on the front side I just like to use a blue paper towel the blue shop towels for this be careful don't go wiping again because all that stuff on the surface they're pretty well attached it takes a lot to get them to break off I've tried in the past actually and it's uh it's harder than you would think you don't have to worry about getting all the stuff off of the side around the die you can if you want to be super anal about it that is completely non-conductive as long as what is touching the actual die itself is all clean like you know the the top surface that's all you really need to worry about right there not to mention when you put on the new thermal paste it's going to squish out anyway and I won't be using the thermal paste that EK provides I pretty much exclusively use kpx or crown not extreme because in my opinion they're the best thermal paste on the market so get it nice and clean don't get to get super anal but you need to get this residue off of the RAM chips and isopropyl alcohol is going to be the best thing for that you can see it wants to sort of stick around that's okay you're going to have some residue left over it's okay if the alcohol gets on other places on the PCB it isn't going to hurt anything if you don't get all this off and it stays kind of oily what you'll find is that the thermal pads you need to install won't stick and then it'll start to become super annoying obviously as you can see the paper towel is sort of tearing apart and leaving Little Fibers on there I'll show you the next step that I like to do to make sure that I get all those fibers off so you can see I obviously have Little Fibers and stuff sitting on top of the die right here which is bad so if that got sandwiched between the cooler and whatnot that would affect cooling we've got some right there on the PCB so I just like to take one of these detailing brushes and just kind of Spritz the whole board and let this get in there that'll help clean out any of the thermal paste I got stuck in any of the crevices or they crevasses between the chips cool now we can install price so for now we can set the PCB kind of out of the way someplace soft I'm using a JC since gaming mat which by the way is only about a month from being back in stock with a new design so make sure you guys are checking out the acsense.com for that or make sure you subscribed here because I'll obviously be mentioning it when it's back in stock so we need to get this sucker apart and this is where I'm now kind of Consulting the manual here and it shows that we have to remove these N3 by 10 screws that are on the perimeter which is which one's the back plate so this is the back plate that one that one that one that one and that one are they captive they're captive yeah I know they were captive on the new back plates which is awesome because then you have to go trying to Fumble around with it to get them to line up when you go to install it so you can see the little neodymium whatever they're called magnets in there I put it in the middle and then I just tilted it duh it's so strong dang it I had it I had it the little there we go the little tiny magnets that it has in there that's strong those are really strong magnets so now we can get to these screws right here which we can just we could use their wrench on just because I'm kind of lazy at the moment so now we should be able to just this is why you always double check if something won't come apart before you start yanking I missed a screw so now yeah look at that maybe they're not kept so here is basically where the PCB is going to go this guy will just come off after we remove these screws see how they're kind of like a standoff with a screw in it it's like a really big version of how the 20 series RTX cards were put together it's the bigger threaded version of it which is kind of nice so there we go there's our RTX 4090 block there's the other block so you can see it realistically is just two water blocks the PCB needs to be prepped now in terms of having all the thermal pads installed now there's three sizes here you're gonna have a one millimeter a one and a half millimeter and a two millimeter and the colors are represented on the PCB with the color so it looks like on the front side all one millimeter you can see the one and a half and the two millimeters are going on the back and it looks like what we're actively cooling here is the back side of the vrms and the mosfets they give you extra and you really want to be careful not to have to use the extra otherwise you're going to find yourself potentially running out we're gonna be using the one mil on all the Rams ramps all the RAM chips and they're already about the right width for the ram as you can see so I'm not going to trim them width wise but I'll show you a neat little trick that I like to do the blue side is a really thin film the light blue side has a thicker plastic backing if you take the the darker blue side you just set it down where you need it and push on it get an imprint of where you can cut it so now that I've got my line I'm just going to take my scissors and snip there we go so now you can see it's the right size for that so I'm going to take off the light blue backing apply it to our Ram and if we did not clean these with alcohol like we already did then it might not stick if it doesn't stick clean it with alcohol again and then it should stick before I do the rest of the RAM chips because you saw how I did that let's talk about what else we have to cool which is the top of the chokes right here and then the vrms for both The Core Power delivery and the memory power delivery if you guys aren't aware this right here is for the core this up front is for the memory so we know the length on this is a little bit too long but we also know it's too wide to stick down in there and we just need to cool the actual squares that are sticking up not the capacitor not the capacitor but the resistors next to it so I'm going to go ahead and get the length where I need it right there but I also know if I cut this pad perfectly in half then what I'll be able to do is just use one pad for both of it so I'm going to go ahead and so this pad is exactly one and a half centimeters wide the reason why I'm going through all this is as somebody that has screwed up and had to go find pads from another kit which most people don't have laying around uh I want to get this right the first time so with the plastic backing part on the bottom which means the light blue facing down I can just lightly score with a razor blade along it check that out I now have two pads that are of appropriate length to just lay down inside of the gap just like that now this one is already ready for the other side because we have two identical links of mosfets that we were going to cool right there see easy so there's those two and we can do the exact same thing with the chokes the difference is the chokes are a little bit wider and we do want to try and cover all of the choke material so I'm just going to make my indentation I hope you can see it but I can see a perfect outline of where I need to cut I'm going to use my razor blade to do that so here is all of our thermal pads installed you see some of them a little more squished than others that's fine the backing on the I hate I hate these thermal pads from Ek with a passion and they have been using these for years and you know what I feel like for what you're paying they should be pre-cut I honestly feel like they should be pre-cut and this is just laziness on ek's part because brands that have water blocks that cost hundreds of dollars less come with pre-cut and even pre-installed thermal pads even the Corsair water blocks of Corsair water blocks come with pre-installed in thermal pads exactly cut probably machine placed because they're like perfect everywhere they should go so when you're paying 454 or even 280 or whatever the single non-active back plate cost these should be pre-cut I hate them because they when you go to pull them off you see there's a line right here like when I went to pull the backing off it tore so of course I had to cut a seam right in between two of the chokes and then continue with another one and then they stretch and trying to get it to come off cleanly with the razor blade because they don't want to unstick it's just they're terrible I hate these pads with a passion and I'm gonna probably go on a crusade now to basically just talk crap about ek's thermal pads as long as they're using them because they are quite honestly the worst I'm gonna go ahead and change up the installation here on something a little bit they show installing an x pattern for the um the thermal paste I don't do that I pre-spread and that's only because of the fact that it I now know if I pre-spread the thermal paste that I will have full coverage on the die I have had issues in the past with my own installations and not being careful with having a portion of the dye become exposed and then what that leads to is a hot spot temp on the die that leads to Thermal throttling of the graphics card that you don't notice because the overall like graphics card temperature will look fine on the edge temp but you have a hot spot temp that is causing you to lose frequency and it looks perfectly fine when you look at it like MSI afterburner and stuff it's not until you get into like GPZ or something we start monitoring hotspot and you're like whoa why do I have an edge temp of 48C in a hot spot of 95 so that will happen if you don't have full coverage on the die I find the X sometimes does not spread perfectly so that's how I do it right there just like frosting a cake it will still spread out a little bit and I'm perfectly fine with that so the next thing we have to do it says is put on the bracket which I already did does that be putting the bracket on the this is what happens when you get ahead of yourself the bracket goes on the Block this should be a lesson in rtfm okay so now that I've got the end the plate on where it goes these two screws line up with those okay now is probably a better time to use a box or something which the cooler box will work very well that way I can hang it over the side because see how you've got that hanging down so I can put this on there flat like that I'm sure this is all lined up boom just like that and then I use the screws that are included with holding them down use the manual to see exactly which holes to use if you can't really tell you can blow it up so I'm going to put these all in there now where they go and move on all right so I got all my screws on there a little tip um do your initial installation of the screws and then let it kind of sit for a minute and then you can come and start to give it just a little bit more turns and you'll find that you could probably get another half turn over time is what you're dealing with is a thermal pad squishing add the thermal pad squish you'll lose some of that tension on the back plate or the the block itself you don't want that so I'll let it sit for a while I'll kind of push on it and then you'll find that you can give it some more attention but you should only be using like fingertip tension because you can easily these are very fine threads you can strip these out you definitely don't want to deal with that but look I'm only making like a 30 seconds of a turn but that's it now we've got really good tension on there but you'll find if you let it sit for a while after you do the initial tension you'll come and you'll be able to turn it again pretty easily and that's again the thermal pad is squishing so the next thing it wants us to do now is put in these screws that I did not put screws in because they give you a very detailed marker of which screws go in with screws versus these standoffs and I'll put these standoffs in there and that black spudger tool that they provided is also designed to be used as a tool for this I'm going to go ahead and use my I fix it one because I like it better okay so the standoffs are designed to give you something to obviously Mount um this guy to right so they're going to line up with those standoffs but we obviously need to do our thermal pads on here first so we can set aside the one Mills that we were using and we'll use basically the exact same technique as I already mentioned for doing the one and a half mils and the two mils so the red represents the one and a half the blue represents the two mil this will be a lot easier because we don't have to be super precise because as you can see the the back of the PCB is um pretty flat so these are the two Mills they're super thick dudes and then these are the one and a half so I'm going to start with just getting one right here on the back of the core and that's going to come in handy because the back of the cord definitely has heat that comes out of it it's just interesting because I'm really wondering how effective this is because we are now dealing with thick thermal pads transferring heat to the block rather than thermal paste so I think it's gonna have to obviously work to some degree otherwise why do it the only other two places we have thermal pads that need to go are right here and right so right here these two rows of resistors and that makes sense because resistors obviously generate a lot of heat because they're stepping down the voltage we'll come back once all the thermal pads are on we're getting to the end here this is definitely a lot more involved than the non-active back plate because the active back plate doesn't have or the the passive back plate doesn't have nearly as many steps it's like we would have been done already so now I'm going to take this guy and I'm going to line it up so because of the O-rings right there we do not want to slide them out so I'm going to kind of go out a little too far and then come back if that makes sense like that boom and then we just use the same screws the long ones or not the long ones but these little guys right here and I just want to get one or two of them started okay and I'm gonna go to the opposite corner over here because what I want to do right now is I want to get the terminal mounted down so now that I have that on there securely so it won't fall off I'm going to push these three down in there probably is not going to be super easy I guess I'll have to do this last because of the fact that until the back plates are squished together it's probably not going to have the right gap on there so let me finish putting these in there because it does in the manual show putting these screws in first then doing terminal so what you're going to notice here is because of the thickness of the thermal pads the holes are going to probably be like like like this right not perfectly lined up so what I did is I just used the Box you could use the edge of a table or something I just leaned some weight on it to squish the pads got the center one to start to thread and then once I did that the other ones will yeah see no effort really needed at all to get those to line up and then you do not once again do not want to over tighten these o-ring is doing the seal as long as there's pressure on the O-ring I'll be fine go until the thread stop and then stop we take this guy go back in there the right way now we're just going to clean up it's now installed what is the total weight I'm so curious right 2 610 grams I gain 200 grams over the the weight of the air cooler but you know what though it's it's a oh it's neat I definitely need to clean it up right now the issue like I said so bench basically this is like a series water block and the way the fittings need to go now is just like as if it was a single terminal you need to have an inlet or Outlet doesn't really matter and it also doesn't matter if it enters into the back plate block or the the GPU block first it truly doesn't matter all that matters is that you need to have it going in one side and out the other so if you could if I came in here it has to exit here and vice versa if I came in there it needs to exit there this is uh I think my friend's Really Gonna enjoy this card obviously because RTX 4090 who wouldn't there's our plug coming out the bottom um you can see obviously making sure I took it out before I had mounted up the card or that could have been a problem but there we go everything is installed nothing seemed to be a problem nothing's squishing out anywhere it shouldn't it's just heavy so talking about sag if it's mounted horizontally it'll probably sag quite a bit just due to the weight anti-sag bracket would be important to consider so anyway there you go what I'll probably do is because of the amount of radiator space and I have to clean this up to this hand oils all over it now because of the fact that I'm going to be installing similar radiator setup in my friend's system to my system that in my Inwood 928 it will not be a like a b perfect comparison because I would have had to have used the same uh two different cards in the same rig to compare any sort of a temperature difference I am going to monitor temperatures on this when I build that system and compare them to what I'm experiencing at home and then normalize it for um normalized room temperature because room temperature is a direct one-to-one scale with the temperature of your components because of the air that's cooling the loop you talk about that later people like to argue about that all the time the science doesn't really care about the opinions it's facts that it cares about and if your room goes up one C your Loop and your components also go up one C it works that way anyway moving on there you go this is a completely Frugal the right word when you just arbitrarily spend no frugals when you're opposite okay this is a um frivolous that's the other word this is a frivolous expenditure this is absolutely unnecessary but it's cool and I'm I like cool no pun intended and it's not even mine so I can't wait to check it out all right guys thanks for watching I'll put links down below to both the iFixit stuff um also to a little plug here EK didn't ask me to do this but I'm going to do it anyway they still have 50 off the price of 30 series water blocks so if you have a 30 80 or 30 90 or 3080 TI or whatever you've been thinking about water cooling getting an EK Vector block for half off that's a deal because even if it was 180 or whatever they're going for some more around there it's just arbitrary number right through out there getting it for like 90 bucks would be a steal in terms of the water blocks so if you're considering doing this you got a 30 series card now might be the time before the route all out of stocks once they're gone they're gone all right guys thanks for watching and as always we'll see you in the next one

Channel: JayzTwoCents

Views: 475,994

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Id: e90rVYfwTgg

Length: 36min 28sec (2188 seconds)

Published: Sun May 07 2023