I was scared to delid my CPU, but then...

all right something I have been waiting for for a while not that long a few weeks but you if you're as impatient and add as I am a few weeks might as well be an eternity uh this if you guys remember is my test set up here for the 7950x AMD am5 processor ryzen 9 processor and I said that I will be using this processor in the build that I'll be replacing at home because you guys know I never took the 12th gen system home because well I knew this was coming and this is so much better than the 12900k it's not even funny yeah the top 10 sisters over there we put a bag on its head because it's still in solitary it's a great system but I mean just might as well just go with the best now right uh anyway if you recall I have already used the Dare Bauer their lead their Bauer their lapping tool to lap the CPU and took about two millimeters off the IHS and you said this is going to start really looking like a very dare Bauer their sponsored video I'm German I can say that okay so this is the the lapping tool and I've already used it to take about two millimeters off the IHS this tool will allow up to three millimeters to come off but I didn't go that far we've already done a whole video on that if you haven't seen it make sure you guys check it out it'll pop out right here or something uh and it was using the new cryonaut extreme thermal paste which is pretty Bonkers but he came out with a new tool and he said I'm the first one to have it I'm the first one to try it and he even had this to say about it you cannot use the slider in the wrong way so that's pretty much idiot proof Roman I'll be the test of that tired of looking at the ugly Nvidia 40 series adapter I think cable mod has you covered with their direct PSU replacement sleeve 12 volt high power cables made from 16 gauge individually sleeved wire supporting up to 600 watts managed neatly with pre-installed cable Combs and available in a variety of colors the cable mod C Series Pro Nvidia certified 12 volt high power cable is a must-have for any 40 series GPU owner to see the complete list of colors and supported power supplies follow the link in the description below now since I have torn the system down and had to rebuild it again because I thought I was done with doing this with the Tai Chi board but I'm not so here we are again I've had to remount it I've had to repaste it you guys have seen that video If you haven't go and watch it because it shows some of the trials and tribulations of modifying the CPU with am5 socket being am4 quote unquote compatible because of the z-axis height for the mounting options I went through quite a bit of testing to find where I could have it Mount properly but because I've we now have a different ambient temperature and we have different mounting I have to test it again to get our Baseline to see if the dear Bauer delitting tool I keep calling it dare Bauer it's technically thermal Grizzly that's the company which he has founded in and it creates all of this stuff under I just like to call it the Dare Bower dare awesome tools but anyway we need to go ahead and do ourselves a solid here I need to see what our thermals look like if you're if you recall spoiler we ended up having approximately a 10c drop um between there we go the stock IHS stuff which was like 95c remember we were hitting 95c no matter what named he was like that's normal and we're like no it doesn't need to be the new Norm and uh we kind of proved it using their Bowers tools I need to go into the BIOS and I need to set the fans at a static speed because we can't have fans ramping and changing uh any sort of a variable there like we need a constant fan uh speed that will allow us to kind of measure a b differences because if the fans ramp up on a curve it it can skew the results so we need consistent uh fan speed there so I'm not going to go full speed I'm going to try and keep this somewhat reasonable on where our duty cycle will be so I'm going to do let's do 70. I also have the Celsius 360 here which is a basic acetec AIO and the fans are blowing across the motherboard because we do need cooling for the vrms and stuff this is a very high power CPU so I just want to point that out I do have cooling across the motherboard and across the ram although the ram won't really be touched in this particular test if you want to know why I'm such a thermal Grizzly Fanboy check this out one of the one of the things that kind of sucks about the AMD IHS is those weird notches that are in it and believe it or not it's not sealed all the way around so things can get under there and into the substrate which is really weird I'll show that when I delete it but he came out with this basically this is the CPU guard which are just these are just designed to fill in that space around the CPU so here I'll grab a CPU to show you real quick this is actually pretty cool this is a ryzen 5 but they're all the same size I will be getting back to some more budget builds here very soon these are the gaps I'm talking about like these cutouts so when you put thermal paste on here it just it oozes down in there once you put the the cooler on there but this is actually adhesive on one side and check this out so it is upside down right now because it's designed to go sticky and down look at that when it's in there and in the socket and stuff and it's it's pushed in there nicely it'll fill in those gaps and you can see right here the instructions on on how to install it so you put the CPU in you put that on and then you put the you close the thing and then the arm will just smoosh it down which is pretty cool basic little thing that shh I don't know why AMD decided to have all these cutouts I assume it's because of all those smds sitting there on the substrate but still interesting design but I just thought I'd point that out he sent that over as well and I thought it was worth showing you guys flusic metal I probably just said a bad word I was like look my German is on a need like a necessity basis I know how to order food beer pretzels and women my mom my mom and my wife are German it's fine those are the women I order so all the settings right now are stock um so it's up to 5.8 gigahertz single core I think 5.3 is where the CPU goes all core 79 and 50x right there um so you can see PPT stock 230 Watts 160 amps TDC 225 amp CDC it's all stock I just want to point that out and even with the stock settings as we showed when it was brand new um 95c even with an AIO is where it will go to but anyway so we need to start the test I'm curious It's where it will immediately Spike to our idle temps as you can see right now 32c pretty solid not really moving around too much there's ADC 82 83 84. 84.4 so yeah like I said it was about 10c drop between the the lapping of the CPU actually the Shaving of the IHS and then the lapping of the CPU and then adding the crowd not extreme so it's it's most of that believe it or not like like five almost six C of that came from the thermal paste alone so I highly recommend this stuff I really really do I wish I had more of it he sent me a few tubes there's not a lot per tube but I would be using this on any GPU I put water blocks on any CPU anything that requires thermal paste I would absolutely use this the kpx or the Kingpin extreme is also really good but this seems to outperform it so it's good stuff right here now while this test is running I'm just gonna leave it running we'll unbox what arrives today this is the d-litting and the mounting tool because here's the thing when you de-lid the I8 the IHS just like I showed when we shaved it down you start having mounting problems because the bracket that closes down on the CPU just like an Intel CPU only so much of the IHS sticks up above that when you start shaving that down you start hitting the bracket before you hit the CPU you take the IHS off entirely the CPU is way below the bracket so not only do you need the tool to de-lit it he did develop a mounting bracket and you'll notice there's not really any retail packaging for any of this stuff because he did say that I was the first one to receive this so here it is anodized it's nice red black now this is pretty foolproof he said um the CPU can only go in here one way because of the way the smds are underneath we're counting on those gaps those gaps believe it or not are what make it possible for this type of delay tool to work remember we're sliding the IHS side to side to side to side to side to side until the the glue basically breaks and then we can take the lid off but it can only go so far before it hits smds and you can only go One Direction before it hits smds under the IHS so their Bauer had like seven or eight revisions of this tool to make this possible in the most recent video he talked about there being bearings on here but they weren't ball bearing these are ball bearings I think they look like ball bearings but they yeah I told you I'm testing his theory pretty much idiot proof as you're tightening it you're not just gonna have the the screw head like turning against the metal which gives you more resistance the bearing will allow it to rotate without any resistance which means the only resistance you'll feel is the IHS now this is the retention bracket this replaces that hold down socket that the latch maker mechanism the mechanism it's very similar to the how they came up with one for the 13th gen CPU from Intel in fact I have one of those remember how the 12th gen CPU kind of had uneven tension on the bracket 13th gen very similar he already had this one created and this is what holds down in Intel 12th or 13th gen CPU to give even Force so it's just an Adaptive version of this to hold down the AMD CPU since you're essentially doing the same thing by removing that mechanism there and then you're on your own you were 100 on your own to figure out how the hell you're going to hold your cooler down and get even tension because every single water block CPU block the whole deal every single one of them have different mounting mechanism so he's like that's up to you hardware store time okay I think we are pretty much equilibrium out here and you can see we're still chilling at 87.3 we're still at 5.25 let me drop to one 5.1 so we're just about 5.2 gigahertz all core um not bad the reason why we're able to maintain that level of of clock it would actually come down a little bit not much but at 95c it still pretty much gave you full performance um because of that temperature right there so 87.5 as soon as I stop the test watch how fast the temps shoot down this will show you this is not a cooler thing this is a design thing of the IHS and the die itself look stop 55 and 4 51 53 well it's still running 5.4 there we go so anyway I'll let this cool off for a sec under load right here well under idle conditions and then we will pray that I do not destroy he's 600 700 CPU is that a pretty good Mount you can see even tension there in the center and stuff but see how I'm talking about it all oozes and squishes out everywhere that's what that little um CPU guard that he made would really help with the thing I hate about this is the fact that you go to take it out bits and pieces of that thermal paste can fall down into the socket which is an Intel thing too you it's not a problem if that were to happen you could just spray a lot of alcohol into there alcohol won't hurt anything and it will definitely eat up that thermal paste just don't try and pick it out or anything you bend a pin you're done the am5 it has the same delicacy as an Intel system when it comes to its pins and such so see that right there got all those pins protected so always keep the socket cover we need to clean this guy right now I go and I get myself some soft bristle toothbrushes first I'll wipe off the excess with a paper towel we see all that excess sitting up in there so I'm just gonna go on there and then we just start brushing our teeth brush our teeth foreign there are see all these little smds and things gonna be very very gentle with those now you might be wondering why I'm going through all the effort to clean it if I'm just taking it off well again you see how we don't have a lot of room between the IHS and these transistors or these capacitors that are sitting here on the on the substrate so I don't want anything building up between those I don't I mean it's pretty soft thermal paste but I'm not going to take a chance at something building up there and creating tension on those so just by using the brush kind of scooping outward not pushing it down because I don't know if you can see on camera there is a gap it is not sealed all the way around it's only glued at each one of these corn these points that stick out that's the only place is glued it's not sealed like an Intel CPU so I could be pushing stuff down under there and you'll probably find some thermal paste under there when I get this off but I didn't want to smush it down in so I take it and I kind of do this sort of outward motion like that so you can see there's a Groove in there that matches the CPU and I kind of wish he had maybe milled in a triangle to match the corner the ryzen 7000 CPU is placed in the ryzen 7000 D lid diamate DDM the Triangular mark on the CPU must be aligned with the corresponding mark on the DDM there is no corresponding mark on the Ddm okay well I sent him a little a little video via email of this so hopefully he gets that figured out but we're going to continue on because we know the orientation is the little arms point right there Phil also said it's weird that there's a hole there fill that so that you can take it out anyway um yep so we'll put that on tighten these guys back up on top and then we will start the uh the CPU decompactation decapitation the manual calls it decapitated CPU so we just thought that was funny because you know German translation very dark translation so even with these tightened down the the standoff the thickness of this this kind of a berry I don't call it bearing or bushing but it allows it to still move there's not really any turning back now so with those bearings in there [Music] yeah so as soon as it goes tight I need to make sure this is loose enough to where it's not stopping it from going let's go oh I feel so wrong it makes cracking sounds listen oh all the sounds it makes okay so then we loosen this one back up let me do this side and we just do this back and forth and back and forth and it will become really obvious when it's broken free I want to break free sorry it'll become really obvious because it won't have any more because right now there's still tension I feel I have to use a little bit of force not a lot but a little bit of force to move the slider but if you look down in there show you in the side you'll see the IHS moving so look at the uh substrate pieces and look at the IHS [Music] see it moving so we just do that a bunch of times until it's free so this is why the orientation is so important look at the clearance between the smds and the edge of the IHS right there obviously their Bauer has built the tolerances on this to be extremely precise otherwise you knock one of those off that's it so that's why the orientation is really important and that's why I I need to know if there's something wrong with this unit before he starts sending these out because that would be a problem if you can put it in 90 degrees off from the way it's supposed to be because it's literally designed not to do that so as long as only the IHS comes off we did it right I say we as if Phil had anything to do with the damage of this that may happen but yeah if we uh yeah if it's broken we broke it if it worked I did it it's like is that a sports fandom Works yes oh we won they lost it they lost not my team lost the team lost see there look at all that thermal paste under there like I said and as you can see right there it's not sealed so when it's breaking free like there's hardly any glue it's mostly the solder that's breaking free on there so what I need to look into now is how exactly he cleans the solder off because I don't know as tempted as you might be to take a rag don't do that the fibers can catch a capacitor and just pop it right off okay soft bristle brush isopropyl alcohol no Force just the weight of the brush and just repeatedly do this until you get all your thermal paste and stuff off okay I'm not using any Force I'm literally letting the weight of the brush do its thing in his video he said the method that he uses to clean this well he just scraped it with a blade and that is scary um he did say you could put the liquid metal on here let it sit for five minutes um the liquid liquid metal will break down the um was it iridium indium yeah The Indian in the tin here and then it will wipe off I'm just worried about getting it somewhere else maybe I'll try that first I mean I've used liquid metal before so I'm on my second round of liquid metal eating it up um I want to talk about this Roman got back to me this is actually one of the pre-production samples it was one of the first uh production run tests where apparently this top piece has not been changed like it's been changed now for the retail but the one I have was not changed to stop the CPU from going in the wrong orientation which uh Roman wasn't aware of until I sent him a video of it right now on my phone he was like oh I know what happened so um idiot tested for sure and this idiot found it but that's okay you don't have to worry about it because it's already been uh fixed on the retail version this is like a it's like a REV 2 of what was going retail or whatever and then the final rev you won't be able to turn it like that so anyway using the liquid metal on here is working pretty well and then cleaning it up just using a bunch of different Q-tips to sort of soak it up so let me finish getting this off and then we'll get it installed and we'll do some temperature testing but okay so some time has went by and some discoveries one of the things I'm not a fan with on this motherboard is I it's not super clear as to what voltages control what um I was noticing the thermal paste it like squished out and the temps weren't very good so I decided to go ahead and go liquid metal I've applied a lot of liquid metal on there it's applied to the cooler side it's applied to the CPU side I've unmounted it mounted it back down made sure it was all filled in and I made some discoveries here so for instance and I was hitting 82c with liquid metal and I was like that's not that can't be right so I I went over here to Performance preset we have a lot of different things here PBO and TJ Maxx 85 PBO TG Max 85 curb optimizer um we have offsets these are voltage offsets to the CPU and I decided to do it I just want to see now I'm just going to go PBO TJ Maxx 75 before I do any sort of an offset so what we would expect right here is that it's just going to do whatever it takes to go to 75c think that's the way it kind of works on there it's just I wish it told you what the settings were really all that's changing are is the Headroom for it and the problem is I feel like this particular motherboard with this particular CPU just errors on the side of caution of like hey for stability pump voltage and then let the you know Turbo clock Optimizer deal with the frequencies so it doesn't go past 95c which is not good for your overall performance because you'll lose performance by losing clock speed in in place of voltage and safety of Crash from crashing so if that makes no sense don't worry it's just the way AMD works and it sucks sometimes but it's the motherboard manufacturers that are responsible for this anyway so I'm set on the PBO which is precision boost overdrive which is a logic and overclocking logic built into the CPU and a TJ Maxx of 75 so now what it's going to do is try and adjust its voltage to control itself because what I'm noticing is my voltages are going way higher than devourers when I was trying to figure out like why are my look at the voltage right now right under under idle conditions this is fine but I was noticing when I would go to load it would go up as high as 1.43 volts which explained the super high temps even with a direct die delighted liquid uh metaled cooler which should not be the case so anyway if I go and just run this test right now I'm just curious what'll happen here oh yeah 75c it's doing exactly what it should do by the way side note the GPU it made no difference if I was on igpu or external it's exactly the same temperature I thought maybe the igp would be causing it to bump up a little bit look at 1.26 1.25 volts it doesn't have to pump the voltage so that was a 37 738 okay fine so I'm gonna go back into the ASRock bios and I'm going to now enable the offset of the voltage the thing is I would love to enable the offset myself but I I don't know which voltage is there's tons of voltage options in this particular motherboard and the ones that I've changed which all talk about CPU input voltage and CPU core voltage had no effect I was bringing them down to like 1.275 and then going in and writing the test and seeing 1.35 so I wasn't seeing any change with any of the voltages that were listed as CPU voltage so that's why when I started playing around with this performance optimizer or the performance drop down with all these Optimizer pre-configured settings in there that's when things started really showing like okay what I've been fighting is not my Mount it's not the liquid metal it's not the die it's the motherboard so look right here PBO and TJ Maxx 75 so now I'm gonna go PBO so check this out if I were to go 85c this would probably go even higher on the core clock but check this out if I just do PBO TJ Maxx 75c and curb Optimizer 40. I wish I could change that curve by the way um that uh temperature limit I would make it honestly more like 77 78 which I think is kind of okay if I know I'm getting more for it but I want you to see here are the core clocks with this particular setting and the voltages it still shows the 5.8 right the CCX Max so that's where a single core would lock at 5.8 which would be cc01 cc05 and cc11 and cc15 or C15 but check this out if I put it under load right now and I'm gonna go 10 minute tests it won't go past 75 seat check it out there it is 5.45 and 5.375 39 805. I changed one thing in the Bios so default wise and look at the voltage by the way 1.24 volts we are getting 200 megahertz above the advertised all core speed by changing one thing now I think if I had not deleted this we would probably be sitting at 5.2 with the AIO at 75. I I think that we would have gotten our advertised speed as expected we're getting additional frequency because of the fact that we have thermal Headroom and that also means voltage Headroom because of the fact that it's such it's it's being cooled so good it doesn't need to pump a ton of voltage in it 1. 174 Watts so we dropped a ton of wattage as well because of the fact that we're not having to put a ton of voltage into it I can feel a decent amount of warmth coming out of the AIO right now so that tells me we're getting really good heat transfer from the direct eye through the liquid metal into the cooler and into the liquid and then out of the red if I come over here to like heaven right now 37 38c now when I had this on all default without any of those PBO optimizers and stuff I was actually hitting 55c with this setup because of the stock stuff now your your mileage is going to vary each manufacturer of motherboard has a little bit different way of doing things and I'm a little lost in the in the ASRock bios I'm very used to Asus I'm very used to EVGA I'm even used to MSI over ASRock this is exactly the way I would use it in my system now I would still not to I still prefer not to run liquid metal daily but that's a whole nother thing for me to figure out with the thermal paste what was going on there but I bet you right now with the thermal paste it would probably be fine um but anyway one last test before we get out of here I'm gonna do I did not do single core I want to see what our single core boost clock is it's actually 5.65 interesting so this is one of those diminishing return types of of mods and what do we mean by that what do you have to give up what what it's diminished well your warranty warranty is gone clearly um there's a elevated risk of damage to the CPU not just while you're deleting it but while you're handling it after the fact while you're cleaning it while you're removing any of the Iridium that's on there there's also the custom mounting you have to come up with to make whatever cooler you're going to use work now this would not be as difficult with um say like a EK water block or something like that uh the difference is EK water blocks use their own back plate it's designed to replace the entire back plate and one of the things that their Bauer used in his video was he made like a small backplate that was designed to retain the socket hold down but then he was able to use an EK backplate on back of that so for me to do this here I would have to chop my back plate and make it shorter and then put an EK back plate on there and then clamp that down and that Gap away would actually help in bringing the springs and the screws and stuff down to the proper height which would actually be a whole lot easier than rummaging through my box to try and come up with screws and nuts to mount down on this and then hope that I got the tension even so it'd be a lot easier with a standalone water block that has its own retention system that passes through the motherboard like EK has which is probably something I would end up running even though I have my own JC sense water block now the differences between their Bower is performance or temperatures in mind we're at about what 5c now so if I run this one more time he was at 72 72 c I've been running this for a while now so I've got some load in here I'm at 75 with PBO or the uh the limit on there so I don't know where it would cap out his just went to 69 on its own remember he's running a uh he's running a Corsair water block very the pretty much exactly exact same block that the Jason says block is only mine's branded different um and a 360 AIO with like an EK pump and the whole deal so and it's a it's a fatter rad he's got more thermal capacity in that Loop in a Better Block design than what's in here so the heat plate on that block is doing a better job at dissipating heat than this particular is and I think this Loop is starting to become a little bit through sublimination starting to lose some of the fluid that's in it I think sublimination is the right word whatever sub permeation permeation it's losing water okay slowly over time this is like five years old anyway thanks for watching guys um I'm glad I didn't kill it there's a couple of moments there where it got scary but we're fine it works my table is now covered in liquid metal and that's okay all right guys thanks for watching and as always we'll see in the next one

Channel: JayzTwoCents

Views: 645,717

Keywords: 7950x, 7950x delid, amd cpu delid, delided 7950x, 7900x, 7700x, 7600x, how to delid a 7950x, how to delid a cpu

Id: Ze-nMPHO7bw

Length: 28min 39sec (1719 seconds)

Published: Tue Nov 22 2022