Milling a Flared Spoke Wagon Wheel on a Rotary Table

hey guys Joe Pye here to Vance innovations welcome back to the shop gotta start off by saying thank you to everybody that responded to the offering on the alignment pin that we put up on our website for the rotary table the response was pretty good and thank you to everybody thank you for all your patience to the offer actually went into a second manufacturing run and there was a delay so if you don't already have it trust me it's in the mail trust me it truly is in the mail anyway today's presentation I know I asked everybody which one of the rotary table parts that they would like to see done first and overwhelming reply was number three and number three looks pretty cool and something that you wouldn't see conventionally done on a milling machine a non CNC milling machine anyway so that would have been my choice as well so in preparing the demonstration I thought of all the different features that the other two had to offer and the lessons to be learned from those so unfortunately I will cover number three but I'm not going to cover number three first thought I was going to but I just can't bring myself to dive right into something high-end like that without covering some of the basics so maybe it'll be a little bit clearer or you'll understand the degree of difficulty when you get to number three gonna start with the flared spoke version because I think there's a lot of cool stuff going on with the flare exposure I'm gonna reposition the camera I'm gonna put it over top of the print and I'm going to show you a couple of mistakes that first-timers new users may encounter with the rotary table and then I'm going to show you some of the ways or some of the thoughts that you can process to determine which way you want to best approach your job got some new stickers on the wall here if you've got a sticker for your channel and you want to see it up on my board send it to me I will put it up there Chris check this for the old man shot it's nice to see that will come across and let's put the camera tripod zoom in on the print and we'll show you the logic behind flared spokeperson this demonstration will show you how to cut the flared spoke configuration of the three models and it's relatively easy we're going to assume and I'm telling you that so it's really no Assumption the solid black line in the middle is perpendicular to the y-axis of the machine we're going to clock it eight degrees so we are now on the eight degrees center here and what that does is allow us to use linear moves to come down and create this radial feature in the bottom sweep this wall and create that radial feature right there you can if you want to at this time rotate the table into this position which is about 13 plus degrees I particularly not thrilled about doing that right away I'm going to do a 12 degree sweep and when I do this side I'll come back and blend it that way I don't have to be splitting hairs with the rotary table as I turn and it should be relatively quick I'm going to try to run this real time so you got a feel for how long it takes I may accelerate it but it's not going to change the amount of time that it actually takes I'm not going to bore you with all that so the first time we're gonna have to come down shift the table eight degrees make the linear offset for the radius of the tool and I'll be able to sweep these walls and here when it comes back for the other side I may have to shift to the top and do the same thing offset and then move counterclockwise okay clockwise rotation to the table clockwise rotation of your crank on your dial at least on my machine you get positive incremental moves in your scale on your rotary table so if you want to start with positive moves you have to start so that the clockwise rotation of the table doesn't kill your part okay let's get the tool set up over top of the correct location and throw some chips as part of the demonstration today I'm going to show you a way that you can work to hard numbers and not have to come up with a bunch of strange numbers on your chart because you're ultimately going to have to compose one what I'm going to show you a way that you can find a point in space on a rotary table two different ways first is you can exactly follow what they've got on the print where it says 24 degrees right there and 1 inch 875 radius down here in my cheat sheet so we're going to move the x-axis of this machine 1 inch 875 and then we're going to go 24 degrees to bring that feature around directly under the cutter where it's supposed to be there's twenty one two three and four boom now we're exactly over that spot if you had to make an eight hole pattern 24 degrees offer rotation with a one inch 875 radius you would now have to add 24 degrees to 45 then to 90 then to 135 then to 180 and all the way around so at any given time you're not going to have 45 or 90 or 135 or the numbers that you would expect to see in a symmetrical eight hole pattern so how do you get around that well let me show you how to get around it let's return this back to the starting place back to zero let's just say that you're stubborn or you're persistent and you want to work with 45 and 90 and 135 as you go around this 8 hole pattern but the print layout really doesn't allow you to do that well you make this move you don't make this a you rotary move you make this a linear move I'm gonna fade out here for a second and my wheel is exactly on zero here kind of in the dark but you're gonna have to trust me make this an XY move whatever the triangle works out to be there's your triangle if this were a true radius this would be swinging around out here of course so there's your triangle that is what we're going to do initially to reset this tool now the table is still set on zero your tool doesn't know whether it got there with a 24 degree shift on the table or two linear moves and now you can go zero to forty five to ninety to 135 making your eight hole pattern the way you would expect it to be dimensioned on the print 45 90 etc but you are twenty four degrees off because you establish that position with the linear move simple we're going to use that technique today and we're going to erase a whole bunch of aggravation out of this spoked wheel this flared spoked wheel and we're gonna make it look pretty easy so let's put some material on here and get after it keep this in mind though this is a really good thing to remember [Music] you tucked in along the x axis of the machine I have my little cheater board right there masking tape and like them or for sharpie marker on it and I am going to know at all times which side of the cutter I am on because sometimes it's pretty difficult to tell when you're looking at the part all right do that don't be ashamed it works really well we're going to make the initial rotational shift to 8 degrees move the cutter down and over 156 it's a 312 diameter cutter and we are going to have at it on the left-hand side of the spokes all eight of them initially reposition for the second side so stay tuned and we are going to probably fast forward all of this and when I reposition the tool I'll explain that as well you okay I'm not quite sure what that is in real-time I believe it's somewhere around 12 minutes and we are going to return the machine we return the rotary table to the zero position offset eight degrees in the opposite direction and offset the tool back to zero and then and an additional 156 which is the radius of the tool so that will be the second move here and we're going to take off this lump right there and that'll result in all the pie shaped cutouts and the final geometry of the spoke wheel will just form by default it may reduce the center section of this and put a little cut around the outside just to dress it up a little bit and accentuate the cutout but let's see what happens there we go cutters back on Center cutter is offset 156 to the opposite side and back around four eight when I return this to the original core diameter setting which is 604 and my records and having a digital readout is a big help on a situation like this when I crank to my first position of 352 on the table it should line up and we're going to find out here and I'm second all right there's 352 walked it down 604 now in order to keep with the climb cut mentality that I have been doing which is if you saw me plunge it and then plunge it and then return to the first one and make the sweep it so that I could climb cut and have a clean outside I'm going to do that same philosophy in Reverse so I will start all my cuts from the outside and move towards the core so that will give me the client cut geometry I see how long this takes I have 16 minutes showing as remaining film time see if we can knock it out you okay five minutes real-time now I'm going to bring the cutter in to the original 604 dimension which is the linear move over I'm going to bring it into the 604 plunge it down about a teeth out and remove the center this is all going to be by eye relatively quick so we'll fast-forward through it and then pop the part out see what it looks like [Music] there we go that is I'm pleased and my handy-dandy Cobra GoPro set up gonna shoot that in a stick it in a different location real time let's refocus and take a better look okay you can see the 16 degree flares spoke in between the cutouts very symmetrical the burrs are at an absolute minimum here because of the climb cut nature of everything finish on the inside is a relatively good and I think I will probably change the cutter and let's plunge down through this a little bit and see if we can create an OD on this part that's just too pretty not to finish out hang in there for a couple minutes actually I've elected to keep the 5/16 diameter cutter in here and I'm just going to go around the outside and create a very narrow edge on the outside enough to clear my clamps but I'm probably gonna get down to within 1/8 or so of that which is not exactly narrow but let's see what happens [Applause] I am going to return the x-axis centerline of my table to zero which i think is important if you're looking for any type of critical diameter dimension you're going to want to be on a specific zero on your x you can also do it with the offset but it's easier on the everything zero you and now for everybody that's wondering if I'm gonna actually cut that completely out yes I am I'm going to use a technique that I like to call jump the clamps I'm going to take one clamp out at a time and I'm going to remove that section of material in that area and return the clamp back to its original location if you're confident which I think I am because this is not a big heavy cut remove the clamps at 180 degrees and cut this side and then go ahead and cut that side move the clamps into the finished product and then remove these clamps completely and finish the OD if it's really critical then pressure turn it in a lathe and finish the diameter so that it's cosmetically beautiful but that's not for this demonstration or maybe it is we'll see you all right before I remove any of the other clamps I'm going to put the ones that I just jumped over or excuse me I'm going to keep these here I will return the ones that I jumped over and then remove those so I don't lose my location you now if you wanted to do that all over again with the chamfer tool have at it print calls it out you got to do it but at least you got your numbers put it on the bench okay well this is the final result I did take some creative cosmetic liberties off camera shined up the outside ran it across the piece of Emery blasted it take off all the burrs and if you notice that was a feather surface remaining here when I was taking it out of the rotary table I did cheat and put it in a lathe and face off about 15th out and make sure that that back surface was completely gone so that I didn't show but it was minimal and it was done by eye for demonstration had it been a real part I'd have paid more attention so there you go that is the flared spoke it is not a big deal but it is definitely something you need to pay attention to when you're doing it or it's going to bite you in the butt now I'm gonna try to refocus and just show something else here that I think is really important for any machining operation and this is a perfect opportunity to point it out so let me zoom in on some of the inside features here and we'll get right back to you this is a perfect example of what a load can do to a specific cutter these features in the corner were plunged this was a climb cut that came across here and because it was a climb cut it wanted to move in this direction so when you load up a tool any tool an end mill a lathe tool whatever and really load it up if you were to go back over that surface it's either going to miss that surface by a mile because it dug in or it's going to take more material off because I did this in a single pass when the cutter came down into the plunged area here and then came across if you watch the video you'll see that this is a plunge plunge climb cut and then a single climb cut across here when it climbs it is going to flex away from the surface and that is what you're seeing right there if this was a double pass I could guarantee that wouldn't be there because the outer diameter here was done at the same setting as these holes were plunged which is why you can see it's nice and tangent right here it's real clean it's a very light cut here and this was an incredibly heavy cut here and I'm gonna bet that that's present on the majority of these windows which it is okay so keep that in mind this is very common when you plunge an end mill through a piece of material steel aluminum whatever and you're making a channel cut and you're coming across that part with it with the cutter and you're going to see the cutters going to want to flex out so when you return it's only going to cut off one side of the channel and when you're done the channel that you've cut has a bunch of serrated steps on one side of the channel and the other side is perfectly smooth that's because when you go up and back the cutter is flexing back and forth with the load based on the rotation of the cutter anyway guys that is the Flair section I am going to reload the rotary table and we're going to do this straight spoke which is a whole lot easier I must say and show you how that's done I personally like the straights book or the flared spoke better but ideally these corners out here yeah there's a barb right that's my fault these corners out here should be nice and sharp that would be ideal if I go back in there with a smaller end mill and it actually looked like these things were segmented that's something for another day hope you enjoyed what you saw thanks for watching well during that demonstration when there was really something to speak about but I wanted you to see the whole thing come together which is why I raced through some of the redundant window exercises there is a lot going on with that particular not only that particular piece but pretty much any piece you're going to put on a rotary table can get fairly complex remembering which side of the line you're on the comp size there's just so much going on make your lists there's no shame in making a whole list of strange numbers that only you will understand and please realize that when you want the cutter to go clockwise and that doesn't mean turn the dial clockwise because it's just not the way it ends up the feature ends up going counterclockwise and if you don't play in your job you can be you can be surprised pretty quick when you go and it's end of days anyway thanks for watching I will post the round one coming up here pretty soon so I hope you come back for now and as always thank you very much Tripp I advance innovation in Austin Texas you

Channel: Joe Pieczynski

Views: 53,996

Rating: 4.9680729 out of 5

Keywords: joe pie, joe pieczynski, how to, advanced innovations, advanced innovations llc, rotary table, setup a rotary table, shop hacks, shop tricks, shop techniques, machine shop, milling machine, milling machine attachments, wagon wheel, wagon wheels, milling spokes, tapered spokes

Id: s0HfNx9FdRc

Length: 25min 30sec (1530 seconds)

Published: Sun Feb 17 2019