You will throw your die handles away after you watch this !!!

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hey guys don't fight here to advance innovations welcome back to the shop let's go through my box the other day and I came across the little holder for a tie that I modified bought it commercially and it just didn't perform like I wanted to do and I made some changes to it and I'm going to take you out I'm going to show it to you but before I did I figured you know before I teach you how to run a pulse pattern I should teach you what a football is right Vince Lombardi here we go split dives gotta be one of my least favorite things to do in the machining world is to run a die on a piece of metal can't stand it don't know why don't like it but I just can't stand it if you're looking to restore an existing thread they're great but as far as running a precision thread with a die I'm so comfortable running single point threads on the lathe that I would that's not my first choices to go for a diet just don't do it so that being said there are a couple of characteristics to a split die they're not really sophisticated they're a thread you're running on it cuts the thread problem solver some are split like this this is a standard button diet that you call it summer split larger guys will have an adjustment screw coming through the one side so that when you screw the screw down it spreads it out makes the resulting thread bigger or if you unloosen it hears that we're done listening if you loosen the screw and squeeze it tighter in the die holder then you can constrict the die and you can make the thread smaller on the smaller dies the one that don't have a whole lot of wall here you'll find a tapered threat in the corner and as you drive the screw down towards the bottom it spreads the die makes it bigger or smaller depending okay simple there's really not much to them they have little buttons on the side buttons are for securing it in the holder of the handle whatever and there is for the most part for the majority of the dies that I've had an opportunity to deal with a starting side and a trailing side now a lot of you guys a lot of new guys will grab a die pop it into holder run it down thread looks absolutely horrible and the dies all chip the help so gee what'd I do wrong well a guy has the same characteristic as a plug tap and a bottom tap one side is intended to start and the other side is intended to trail but you can run your part through the die and I'll do a close-up on one of the dyes that I have and I'll show you what to look for you can run the die through and when they take the die off spin it around and finish the thread with the sharp side but if you load the sharp side up since the teeth are so sharp and there really is no delicate lead or chamfer on that die the risk of cracking the teeth off on the backside is really increased so do not use this as your first approach come in from the side intended I've seen dyes that are marked start this side that's great that they do that for you so you don't have to check it out if your eyes are getting old at least you can see that start at this side but look for the chamfer and I've also seen dyes that have a chamfer on both sides so it doesn't matter and I've seen dyes that don't have a chamfer at all so it's up to manufacturers preference I guess and when you're buying it check it out if you go to a hardware store and you buy a 96 tap and dyeing set for 39 bucks well you're going to get thirty-nine dollars worth of performance out of it don't be afraid to spend some money if you're gonna need to do it repeatedly important things about running this on make sure it's the right size make sure it's secure and make sure it is perpendicular to your work that's the other hard part as you're running it on you want that work running straight through right angles you don't want it this way you don't want it wobbling around as you're doing it I'll show you a couple of things to help you do that let's take a walk out to the lathe let's take a look at what I got this guy is a perfect example of what to look for when you're trying to figure out which side of the diet to feed on first you can see that these threads appear to come completely flush to this backside alright natural you're gonna see some chamfer that's part of the thread geometry but if you flip it over I'll see if we can get it to reflect there you go see the big lead in there down inside much more of a taper to this die this would be the side that you want to feed on to your work first now it doesn't necessarily say anything about let's feed this side on first and this is the type that does not have sufficient wall thickness just bump the camera so the visual wall thickness right here for a screw to come in from the side so they put the little screw coming in from the outside let's see if we can find one years ago here's a different one this is the kind that they've decided to come in from the edge sometimes you can adjust these sometimes they pop them off with epoxy but if you're in a pinch dig it out burn it out do whatever you got to do and adjust the die to make it fit but most importantly look for that big lead in your die and feed that side on first if you need more thread and you just can't do it after you've run the thread from this side flip it around run it from this side and realize that the chance of cracking these teeth has greatly increased when you do that so if you destroy your die well that's a risk you got to take okay let's put this in a couple of different holders to show you a way to keep it perpendicular to your work and away we go Old Faithful this is my tailstock thigh holder that I bought I can't I can't even remember how long ago I bought this thing it's been forever the intent behind this is to squeeze this in your drill chuck put your dye in it and with the tailstock loose you do not want the tailstock torque down for this run the spindle in crank it in and as it engages you'll feel the you'll feel the lead in conjunction with how many rotations and if you're off on your rotation well then the whole tailstock slides so it's a nice thing to use but I also realize that if you're running a thread on something delicate or something that has a little bit more need for torque you may have to engage a little bit more exterior pressure you add the mercy of the machine or are you what I did to mine I punched it out reamed it and I'm out a drill blank in my chuck this now sits on this now sits on the drill light sound out spins alright well now that it's spent I used a couple of long shoulder bolts cuz I didn't feel like making handles so shoulder bolts were the next best thing since I had a whole drawer full of them look at this now you have basically a die holder handle that you can take and you can drive on twist it on as you see fit and when it gets to the end if the machine is running you can simply hold one of these and when you want the thread to stop let go and the entire assembly will freewheel with the part this is a fantastic unit I tell you for the amount of times that I've used my die handle I have used this thing a thousand times more than I've used my die handle and that is not an exaggeration putting these handles on and allowing this thing to float brought a whole new level of comfort to it and another thing you can do with this device if you have a really long piece that you need to thread first of all make sure the OD of the thread is not bigger than the rod that you've selected for the back mount this in your collet let this spin and feed your material with your drill chuck actually threaded about six feet worth of m6 material one time for a metric job that I had to do and worked out fantastic the only thing you need to do watch out for is the chips building up in here so keep it flooded or keep an air-blast on it a neat little thing to have great little project if you need to make one nothing to it all right let's put the stuff in the lathe and just give you a quickie visual on how it all sets up all right guys let's explore a couple of options for keeping your cap handle or you die handle straight while you're running a thread on your part that's in the lathe option number one and this is probably the most popular first of all make sure you have a chance for on your part select the correct side of your die to go in make sure it registers take a big drill chuck bigger than the backside of your die press it right up against the back of the handle there you go everything is perfectly aligned as you crank the handle crank the tailstock as well let it float but maintain a nice even pressure on it that's option number one [Applause] second option you have use a life center get your part to register make a button or some type of pressure pad for the back of your die there you go as you crank make sure you crank the tailstock in as well everything will stay perfectly lined up perfectly but closer then you're going to get by eye that's for sure now let's put the dye holder in the drill chuck run it on see what happens [Applause] okay now just for sake of catastrophic failure demonstration I'm gonna do this under power I'm gonna run it all the way to the corner and I'm gonna allow it to hit the corner and continue to move let's see what happens [Applause] this is acetyl and I'm gonna run it on at 130 rpm I can expect this is going to strip out it's going to be a horrible failure and you're going to ruin the part my tailstock is not locked down it's free-floating and any movement of the dye holder that you see is being controlled by the crank and the tailstock itself slipping along the ways to make sure that it is not bumped up against your carriage make sure the carriage is out of the way you'll be able to feel the motion of the die a runner right up against your shoulder all right now that's sitting still in the part is still spinning so I have to imagine that that thread is toast which is exactly what I wanted to show you pull it back off and hear if it decides that come off it's not that is well locked on there boy you could smell it you could smell the heat from where I'm at so the dye has effectively run up against the shoulder the part continued to spin the dye had no place to go and the teeth just simply undercut this blank I'm gonna have to put a pair of pliers on that backing off I'll show you what it looks like when I get it off as expected when the dye ran up against the shoulder material continued to spin the cutting teeth acted like a radial cutting tool and absolutely destroyed the threads on the backside of this which is exactly what I was hoping to show you and we're going to show you the benefit of having this dye floating in the next setup so there you go nice thread all the way through as soon as it hits the corner there's no place else for it to go the material yields and destroys your part tailstock dye holder is effective but you have to be very careful how far you go let's take a look at it with it modified this is the way that I use this die holder exclusively that is a 406 diameter high speed steel drill blank that's a 406 ream this floats now I will simply apply pressure to this as it pulls itself it's about a one-inch gap it will traverse along this rod pull itself onto the part and when it meets the resistance of this corner I'm just going to let it go it's going to spin with the part I'll throw the part into reverse it'll push back off by itself and we should have a perfect thread when this is over let me reposition the camera and take a look and I'm going to do one more thing before we run that thread on there I'm going to take a piece of cardboard and punch a 5/16 hole in it and slip it over top of this the case this surface has any type of cosmetic requirement or it's a critical surface when this engages the end of the part it'll crunch up against the cardboard and not damage the part if you need to finish it by hand give it another half a turn after you tear the cardboard out that's running on [Applause] floating setup is in place I do have a small piece of cardboard that I've slid over the shaft and against the shoulder of the part I'm going to engage the machine I will hold this by hand until it runs up against the stop and then I will let it go and power back off let's see what happens [Applause] it's a lot of pressure on this but as soon as it hits it will pull it out of my hand there you go no damage to the part break the chip in Reverse any existing material that you have that isn't threaded you can see the lead of the thread is obviously I would say about half the diets surprising if you wanted to clean that up we could turn the diorama run it back on exactly the same way and away we go that was dry that was not done with any kind of lubricant or air let's turn the diorama see if we can finish off the thread [Applause] to finish your thread I'm going to start it by hand powered about halfway down and then I'll finish the very last little bit by hand as well so I don't run the diet against the face of the park I'll give you a close-up [Applause] [Applause] I remember that the teeth are a lot more fragile in this direction take your time you don't want to crack them off I think that's about as close as I want to get that's right up against you could still keep a piece of paper or brass shim or something on there if you're concerned about it [Applause] [Music] all right well in the absence of an undercut I would think that's as close as you were going to get to the shoulder this part using a die and at this point that's when you hit it with the steel wool or the file or Emery whatever you want to clean it up with there you go make sure you start with the correct side of the die if you don't have one of these make one of these these are fantastic think they have in your box and once you do you'll never go back to using a handle thank you for watching you i phone you by clippers and this is how i get to work this morning this is my everyday ride it is an 1800 CC Honda VTX twin and I'll tell you just single pull your arms off with the torque that has absolutely incredible shaft drives computer control fuel injection this thing is a beast it's got what they call a hyper charger on the side it's like no Ram air fuel system or excuse me a ram air intake and then when this is on it's just flopping around like a top fuel dragster it's pretty cool all right there you go
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Channel: Joe Pieczynski
Views: 566,747
Rating: 4.8309646 out of 5
Keywords: Joe Pie, JoePieczynski, Advanced Innovations, advanced innovations llc, how to, machine shop, shop tricks, shop hacks, shop techniques, shop tutorials, dies, threading, die handles, external threads, keeping a die straight, die handles are terrible, help, abom79, diresta
Id: gIQdxMRqjLA
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 19min 44sec (1184 seconds)
Published: Tue Jun 18 2019
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