Get your parts to run true in a non adjustable chuck. YOU MUST WATCH THIS!

hey guys Joe paisans can here with advanced innovation saying want to say thank you to everybody that continues to subscribe and comment and leave me the thumbs up awesome a couple of videos back I showed you how to precision indicate a part in a three jaw Chuck and the primary objective on that video was to tell you that you must establish square before you establish concentric it was very important while I got a lot of feedback on that one and a lot of the same type of comment and what it boiled down to was hey guy we don't have an adjustable Chuck so although we can get the whip out of our part and we can get the part to run square with the machine it's still out of concentricity when we get there so today I'm going to take you over to the lathe and I'm going to show you no matter how bad your lathe is you can get apart to run fairly true if you're willing to just take your time and do a little bit of homework before you do it alright so let's take a walk over the machine two steps behind me I'm going to reposition the camera here in a second and I'm going to show you and you're going to have to take my word for it that I am going to throw that three jaw Chuck so far out of alignment that concentricity is just never going to happen but I'm going to show you how to make it happen alright let's take what all right guys first thing I'm going to do is to throw the Chuck body as far off the center as I possibly can and I'm going to look for a continuous surface to do that so I've slipped the machine out of gear I don't want to pick up on the track or bounce a crust here so I'm going to look for a nice in between and right there behind the jaws is usually a good place to do that so let's set the indicator in there see what we got my truck body's about tooth out I'm going to loosen up all my adjusting screws I'm going to take screw number 110 I'm going to tighten it going to go to screw number three which is 180 degrees on the other side and make sure it's not making contact which it is not so I'm still going to tighten it down till I feel it's pretty secure what you did I'm going to take two and do the same thing well that's going to do is just pull it in a small diagonal going to go to four make sure that's not touching which it is not okay so one or two are really tight I'm just going to Snug three so it doesn't come flying out of there and I'm just going to bump number four so that doesn't move either okay let's take a look at how the Chuck is running all right well that's more like it you know what minus six and a half plus six and a half Thirteenth out that's probably more like something you'd find on a home shop or an old machine let's relocate the indicator and put a part in the Chuck tighten it down and see how bad it is okay now for sake of this demonstration I'm going to use a half inch drill blank I'll reposition my indicator let's see how bad this runs hopefully it's really terrible that would be great for this exercise that's awful huh all right we're about 15th out of concentricity let's see if it's straight yeah we're pretty good 15th out now if you put a part in it was 15th out you can take a lot of time and you could shim your jaw's but every time you open and close your Chuck you'd have to worry about where that shim is and where it went let's see if you can get a better look at that indicator okay that's a solid 14 and a half 15th out there's many ways to overcome this naturally you could put soft jaws in if you're using a piece this small chances are you'd use a collet anyway but if you don't have Kaulitz and you're not going to worry about that let's see how we can fix that with this particular chart and I can promise you I'm not going to move the adjustment on this Chuck for the duration of this exercise okay go get yourself a piece of scrap stock - I would say at least three to four times the diameter of the part that you're going to hold or the diameter that you're going to locate on stick it in your machine if this is a part that has any kind of other features that you would want to locate from you can actually bore it into the part into this piece of scrap for a locator feature on your depth as well but what I'm doing just to show you it can be done I'm not going to worry about that okay I'm going to spin this hopefully you can see that it's still terribly out of concentricity which it is going to face since we're working with half-inch stock and you know we're going to punch a half-inch hole in here I'm going to start with a 7/16 drill there's a reason for that stay tuned you you all the way through with your whole very important I'm going to deeper this part flip it around and face it these have a clean slug still means nothing on the final product okay at this point before you take it out grab a magic marker a sharpie marker a wax marker or anything you can grab that'll write on it and mark where your jaws are okay three marks each one in line with the job but I always mark where my key is as well just because so since my Chuck key is now facing 12 o'clock I'm going to put a little dot back here just to let me know that's where my key is let's take it over to the band song works a magic tonic if you just watch that video on how to repair the vertical adjustment on the do all this is why I had to do that so let's take a look okay guys now what we're going to do is we're going to put some relief cuts in here and the one thing that would scare me because this doesn't have a very large footprint and as you're feeding this into the blade this way that it rolls forward that it rolls forward into the blade or pulls you into the blade which scares you to the point where you recoil into the blade so if you have to do anything like this it's not a bad idea to stick it in a vise and let the vise through the hole so as you push it across the machine the vise is doing the work and naturally you can't cut all the way through with this because the device pressure would clamp down on it but we'll get to that so let me do the relief cuts and get back to you nice to have a height adjustment that works this part is very warm right now so I'm going to take it over to sink and cool it off we'll be right back okay I'm well into this I have two nice relief slots that are about an eighth of an inch away from the ID and one that's considerably wider on the backside now what I'm going to do is I'm going to take this and I'm going to push it all the way through to the center very carefully all right it is larger than the other two and there's a reason for that and just because it's not on center that doesn't really mean anything so long as you have the three point reference that you had basically in the beginning you're good to go I'm going to go find a piece of shim stock that I can stick in here I'll be right back okay we got that too this is what you're looking for you're looking for a bushing with a large cut in it piece of shem stock that fits in there loosely a relatively thick wall you don't want it paper-thin you want it to be relatively rigid and let's walk back over the machine and show you what we're going to do with this okay now I know when I did this initially the black magic marker marks we're towards the outside and there's my key rotation the Chuck key is straight up now so I'm going to put it back in the machine and turn it just a little bit so now the slots are in between the jaws now here comes the reason for the shim put the shim in your part squeeze down on it until it closes up if it doesn't close up make the relief cuts deeper but you want it to have a lot of resistance on the Chuck as you're tightening it down you don't want it to close easily you want some resistance and I'm definitely getting resistant I'm going to open up these slots just a little bit more but don't open them up so far that when you're finished diameter comes along you break through the web and the whole thing flies apart okay I am about a sixteenth of an inch away now and I know when this opens up that's the 7/16 trilogy shoes it'll be relatively close get back in there squeeze down on it you watch your shim to protrude inside the drilled hole that is okay and preferred alright that is nice and tight the bushing has closed up on the shim the shims not going anywhere front to rear I'm going to pass the drill back through there just to knock the shim off and let's see if I get away with that this is still an undersized also that it's okay you see it bouncing around we're doing right now is we're just taking off the part of that chin that was protruding into the hole through the wide slot we're as you can see down inside the bore the shim is now part of the ID so you have a continuous hole you want that to be a continuous surface all the way through that's very important Shh right now I'm looking for they recommended drill size for a half-inch reamer so I'm going to bore this out to 484 just for the first quarter of an inch or so just to true up the whole I'm gonna go through with the 484 drill that you see on camera Shh there's any part of the shim that is protruding on the face of the park face that off at this time if you don't have a reamer to fit your part this is where you bore the finish size but I do have a reamer so I'm only going to bore a pilot diameter in the very front to track the reamer string so that the reamer doesn't follow a drilled hole look at surprisement becomes a river she is running a 235 rpm right now this is the six high-speed rail and because it's a through-hole I'm going to push it all the way through it's a relatively good pilot hole we should be in good shape guys now the most important part of this project right now is right now what you want to do is unloosen your jaw's so that this particular material opens up but it doesn't flex it doesn't lose its rotation just enough to get this out that's it because the wall thickness right here should be acting like a spring and it should keep your bushing in place all right success pushing didn't move get the out all is well let's put the blank in that we're going to suppose to be your part snug it back up drop an indicator on it and see if it works now this truck body is running out fifteen thousand seven inch right now if I'm running within one I'll be thrilled and see if it's straight I'm gonna really torque this thing down and see what we get okay that's a 500 won reamer that I just used this is a 500 pin we were 15th out initially and for a home late I think that would be more than acceptable one-thousandth coal indicator reading that's five ten thousandths of an inch off center from the fifteen that we started with this is a very good trick take the part out don't let the bushing move still pretty rigid in there because there's a lot of pressure on it put it back in see what we get for repeatability can't complain there guys we took out 99% of the air if you can get a thousandth on your backside I think you're close enough I hope that helps it's a good trick if you want it super precision make your hole the same size as your part for it take your time this was quick this was on camera so I didn't do it super precision I'm happy with a foul on the backside because if you have to deal with 15 on your jaw's when you do something like this and take out 14 and a half now worth air I think you've come a long way I hope you like that guys well that's all I got for you let's review what you just saw you saw a Chuck that was running out 15,000 Sassoon that you don't have soft jaws or soft jaw carriers and that you do have some scrap stock laying around grab a piece of material that is about three to four times the diameter of what you're going to be holding a pilot hole in it split it three different ways only two of them do not go all the way through to the center the one slot that does go through to the center you want it to be a fairly good slot fairly decent if the shim is only touching at the idea of the part as you compress your jaws and you bore that area away it could loosen up so make sure that when it squeezes your shim that you have a fairly good contact on that shim for any type of reaming or boring operation it's good to have a continuous surface so make sure that you shim protrudes down into the bore when you initially start it or close enough that you can push through with a drill and knock off any ugly stuff that's on the inside the 15th I run out I've got the part to run within a foul and you know if anybody wants you to do something that's closer than that flipside chances are you need to raise your price and see how serious they are about the concentricity expect that they put on your print the good thing about this is if you have the relief cuts in your collar and you blow the hole put a smaller shame in and squeeze it a little bit tighter and do it again you can use the same one and the same principle holds if you want to use a bigger diameter part in that same collar so long as you don't wipe out the edges or the webs that keep the thing with any kind of spring integrity intact you can continue to bore it so it's all a matter of how strong you are how strong your Chuck is how tight you want to do it which part looks like a dozen different variables anyway this is a good trick I have about a thousand of these bushings laying around for all different sizes for a little work big work whatever works good try it out if you like it and it does take the slop out of your job and you get away with it and you're thrilled with what you got leave me a comment in the line below and if there's something you still don't understand have a suggestion on how to improve this write that down as well so until my next video joepie advanced innovations Austin Texas I'm out you

Channel: Joe Pieczynski

Views: 939,354

Rating: 4.8542833 out of 5

Keywords: joe pie, joe pieczynski, advanced innovations, advanced innovations llc, lathe tricks, lathe hacks, machine shop tricks, machine shop hacks, shop tricks, shop hacks, 3 jaw chuck hacks, indicating a 3 jaw chuck, how do I true up a part, 2nd side operations, establishing concentricity, non adjustable chucks, worn out chucks, bad chucks, insider tricks, shop tutorials, lathe tutorials, indicating in a worn out chuck, indication tricks, indication hacks

Id: gCUkJydSmdA

Length: 32min 12sec (1932 seconds)

Published: Tue Oct 18 2016