Turning a 1 Piece Miniature Crankshaft....This one is pretty cool

hey guys joepie here advanced innovations welcome back to the shop you know if you have an engine laying in your shop sugar or later you're going to come across the piece of material that just doesn't fit the 164th incremental sizes that you have in your column rack and when that happens you have a couple of choices well you can squeeze a big one down to a smaller diameter force it into a small one which is really not a good idea you can shim it up or you can use what's called an emergency collet now if you've never used an emergency collet once you use them you're going to say hey how come I didn't know about these before and I should have 10 of them sitting on my bench for just such an occasion well an emergency colony is basically the same thing as a any other collet and I'm referring to 5c collet at this point they come in a soft steel so you can bore them out you can make them the size that you want they come in brass they come in aluminum they come in nylon and a emergency collet is really good for eccentric applications or oddball shape applications where you prep the collar on the mill and then move over to the lathe and the fuss and muss about the eccentric job or the triangle part that you're going to hold over the square or whatever it's taken out of the equation because now you have a column for well if you have used the 5 C emergency collet I'm going to also show you a little trick just in case you make an oops on that collar a way to recover without having to spend another 20 bucks and that's all they cost 20 bucks that's not actually that bad the demo I'm going to do for you today is based on a lot of you guys that have been commenting on my material because when you comment on my material I might click on your little icon and see who you are see what your interests are and see what you post and I have discovered there are a lot of model builders out there a lot of miniature model builders steam engines like for instance Chuck Tipton with his traction engine amazing model if you haven't watched Chuck Tipton's model on or a video on that traction engine he built go check that out anyway today I'm going to do a crankshaft for a miniature v8 engine I mean a little baby crankshaft it's going to have four journals for the rods two rods per journal and it'll have the main bearing rods as well I'm going to do it in a five seat palette and that's not really the hard part about an eccentric turn guys are going to say so what you can do it in the comp lock and a forge all you can do the raw material in a four job but this crankshaft work it's not so much about the stroke or the eccentricity of the crankshaft in as much as the relationship from one journal to the next now that's where it can be tricky if you're making just a crankshaft that has a single eccentric journal on it no big deal put your drop indicator on it you're pulling off-center you watch for the stroke you know you got it but if you have to turn three four whatever however many journals you want to make sure that they are right that's your help right there you want to make sure that they're exactly 90 degrees apart so whatever engine you're doing is balanced runs well doesn't shake doesn't backfire or whatever so I'm gonna take a walk out to the shop prep a piece of stock take an emergency column explain a little bit more about emergency columns and hopefully make a crankshaft for you right before your very eyes take walk out of shop if you have a lathe in your shop chances are you using Kaulitz and the collet I see more often not as a 5c collet this is a standard 5c collet this is a standard 1/16 inch 5c collet this is a 1/16 5c emergency collet identical in every respect within two two big exceptions now this is called a 1/16 emergency collet because that's the size of the hole in the center I'm sure some of you just fell off your chair laughing saying you know no kidding but when you order these you can order these with a sixteenth or an eighth hole in the center and that depends or it drives the features that you can put in it afterwards it also comes with these outrigger counter bores right here because since this is soft and you will be machining this you want to make sure that when you put this into your machine and draw down on the pressure that it closes a little bit well if you want it to close down and stay closed and not vibrate and bounce around you need to put pins in these little holes now the what I've noticed in the past is if you put a pin in there that just and I can't even get this pin in there this is what came with it I had to push him out with a scale from behind they're incredibly tight the pins that you want to stick in there there are usually eighth inch diameter I don't know if you can see this or not I hope you can I have turned the ends of some of my pins so that they drop in there nice and easy and it's okay if they wiggle around it's that's perfectly fine when you draw this thing down in the machine you want it to close down a little bit that way when you're done boring it reaming it sheathing it whatever and you release the pressure it opens up so you can get your part in and it returns to the final geometry when you put the adequate pressure back on it that it was cut with so that is a good suggestion for the pins used for emergency calls relieve one end of the pin make sure it goes in nice and easy I mean nice and easy you do want some motion on the collar when you close it up I'm going to put this in a square college block and I am going to drill and bore an off-center hole in this so that we can put the eccentric crankshaft blank in there and hopefully come up with something like this I'll show you how that's done you can see that these two in the center our mains and the ones on the outside are the ones that are eccentric there are exactly 120 degrees apart and the one that I hope to do today for this demonstration is going to be for journals 90 degrees apart and that is usually the issue because as soon as you release the collet you lose your clocking and I'm going to show you how to take care of that all right let's get over to the mill start the project first step in the process is to align your college which is spindle and if you want to put it with an angle plate use a square whose a 1-2-3 block whatever you can use I'm going to indicate the outside of this block because I know that my collar is true to the block I have checked this previously with a known college with a pin in it put it on a surface plate and rotate the block and just indicate the pin it'll tell you whether or not your collet is true to the block you with everything tightened up you know your eccentricity you know your final size machine this like you had machine any other conventional piece of material and we'll get it going I'm looking for a 150 eccentricities so I'm going to set either access it doesn't matter we're going to set it off 150 which will result in a 300 down stroke so 150 off side I'm actually going to move 150 into the slot as opposed to putting this split in the solid-body we're going to move the eccentricity between the area that I know is going to migrate when I close the puzzle [Applause] it'll plunge with an undersized endmill initially and I'm going to do this very delicate [Applause] avoid the bouts because they are [Applause] [Music] [Applause] see that the eccentric is running true to one of the slots as it pulls off-center want to make sure that whatever material you're putting it into is going to function like a collet when you close your college if you were to migrate to this side of the collet you would not have as much bite because you'd have a solid section of the collet and it would kind of defeat the purpose I'm going to sign off and I'm going to size this column we'll get back on the lathe when it's a little bit closer to done okay the kalos spin prepared is a 618 diameter board because I wanted to use a 5/8 stock and just dust it off to make sure it was straight let me go back to the journals I'm going to have to wrap it with a piece of paper and that'll bring it up to 625 it's a good idea if you're going to make a color like this mark the face of it to indicate how far off Center you are which is what that OC is and what diameter it is you can see it came out fairly well and now I'm going to show you the trick to prepare the blank so that you can clock it accurately I'm going to assume that the majority of the steam engine models out there going to have small crank shafts so I'm use it about a 4 inch long blank the first thing I'm going to do is set it up in a V block and I'm going to trim the outside shooter the spindle the machine zero out the digital or zero out your dials once you have it dialed in and whatever the eccentricity of your college was and however many holes you may have or however many journals you intend to put on your crankshaft put that pattern in the end of your part with the center drill that will give you a full footprint and I'll show you what I mean in a second here this is a three sixteenths diameter high speed steel center drill and since this is 150 eccentric it's three hundred between centers so this center drill will drill a four hole pattern in the end of this part quite nicely so I'm going to move it off 150 pow in each direction x and y I'm going to drill four holes into the part [Applause] if the tip on your indicator is nice and small you will be able to pick up the conical portion of that center drill feature now the easiest way to do that in the lathe I'm gonna put this back in the lathe and I'm gonna show you let's walk over plug this in and cut the first journal see if I can get in here the vertical journals now one where the indicators resting in the one right above it lie in line with the split so very minimal rotation of the part at this time we'll get that indicator to spin or actually you don't want the indicator to spin we'll get the indicator to read zero while the part is spinning let's see if we can move it and dial it in [Applause] now any rotation of this part is going to throw that Center one way or the other so it's probably a good idea if you take a sharpie marker or some other type of marker put an index line on the top of your particle so you can get a visual reference against one of the splits in the column it is not going to take a whole lot of movement to influence that indicator see what happens distinct with two and make a cut see what happens [Applause] [Applause] I will be using our parting tool for this 770 rpm [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] okay let's put this on the bench for a little explanation now I think you can see that Journal is straight perfectly in line within a sow either way of that one home now depending on the firing order of your little engine that you're going to make if you're only making a two cylinder that's one thing but if you're making a engine and you want it to fire in a specific sequence like an old GM or Chrysler v8 then you're going to have to make sure that the indexing of your journals is such that it performs the way you want it to this operation I'm going to put the journals every 90 degrees so it's like a staircase and it would technically fire front to rear on this all right I will do that off camera and we will show you the results momentarily you guys after all the journal work has been done put it back in a concentric collet holding on the OD of the part to turn your journals your main bearing areas always work a crank from the outside in because it gets flimsy and if you work from the inside out then hold the journals on the outside they're going to ring and that's not good [Applause] [Applause] for a while I'm Stan and this is looking pretty cool so I'm going to reposition that camera so you can see what I've seen [Applause] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] okay if you take a good look going from left to right on this image the first Journal comes around to the top dead center then the second and the third then the fourth files behind it and that is not the proper way to clock of v8 crank but these are equally spaced at 90 degrees and would result in a nice rhythm to the end you gonna hit this with some scotch-brite part that backside off with a little flange on it like a real crank and put it on the bench [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] how much room for spirit [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] ah take a look okay guys the end that had the center drills in it has all been turned away to simulate the front main bearing area we have the concentric journals in between the rod journals and I guess this is where the bolt pattern would be put for the flywheel or torque converter or whatever else you're gonna put back there clutch housing there you go next time you make a model engine go for a couple of cylinders and stop making those crank shafts out of little pins and little plates use this technique make one out of a solid piece that's all I got I hope you enjoyed it you

Channel: Joe Pieczynski

Views: 197,555

Rating: 4.9411573 out of 5

Keywords: Joe pie, joe pieczynski, advanced innovations, advanced innovations llc, shop tricks, shop hacks, professional tips, how to machine, machine shop, lathe, lathe tricks, how to setup an eccentric, eccentric turning, crankshaft fabrication, scale models, steam engines, miniature crankshaft, 5C, emergency collets, special collets, machining a collet, off center turning

Id: 9sQzedI_Cw4

Length: 25min 4sec (1504 seconds)

Published: Sun Jun 03 2018

Reddit Comments

[u/Day_Rider]

That's pretty dang cool

[u/leglesslegolegolas]

Very informative, thanks for sharing!

[u/discontinuuity]

I might've missed this, but why is it made of aluminum? Is this one just a demonstration piece?