ROTARY TABLES, how to cut an angle, how to produce a disc, how to accurately radius corners

hi and welcome to today's little quickie video today we're going to be looking at the basic setup for a rotary table there is three basic needs for a rotary table the first is when you want to cut with specific angles we're going to be looking at that type of setup and what is that and usually it's used use the rotary table for angular cuts when it is a bizarre animal and our traditional angular setup tools just don't work let's say we want to set up here for a 20 degree 20 minutes 20 seconds angles that is an odd angle so we'll take a look at that the next situation that we tend to set up for is for milling a complete circle or producing a disc from a blank part oftentimes because our lathe just isn't big enough to swing up so we'll be taking a look at that as well and our third situation is a quite common one and it's the most complex it's when we need to radius the corners of a part square or rectangular or even a knob we have hex that needs radius corners so we'll be taking a look at that but first things first we're going to want to look at how to read the graduated scale of the rotary table as well as its vernier scale and also the main scale on the table so we have degree increments on our main scale we have minute increments so one sixtieth of a degree increments on our rotary scale here and our vernier scale has increments of ten seconds so 1/6 of a minute so degrees minutes seconds but the seconds the best we can do is ten second increments now to set this on zero accurately I'm going to turn my table with the hand wheel here to come close to zero without going past that backlash is a real problem with these accessories so I'm going to always turn in the same direction should I go past the measurement I'm going to come back a fair ways to get rid of the backlash and come back to the position I want to be in always moving in this same direction so I'm going to come close to my zero without going past it and then I'm going to come up to my zero on my rotary scale here so let's say that I want my 20 degrees 20 minutes 20 seconds angle I'm going to start by turning my table to come up close to 20 degrees without going past it so here's my 20 I come up close without going past now I'm going to want to take a look at my rotary graduated scale here and bring it up to 0 20 minutes twenty to twenty degrees sorry zero so I'm going to come up to zero so I have zero on I'm on 20 so that is 20 degrees but now I want 20 minutes this is a minute scale so I'm going to go 10 and 20 so I have 20 degrees 20 minutes and now I'm going to look at my vernier scale and I want 20 seconds so that will be the second line past the zero in this direction because I'm turning that way so the second line here needs to line up with any line on the graduated cylindrical scale or rotary scale here so there that's a line so a line on this scale is a line here it's the next one of the lines and I'm at 20 degrees 20 minutes 20 seconds I can lock that down here so 20 degrees and a little more but not 21 so I'm somewhere between 20 and 21 and I can see here that from my original 0 on my rotary scale or my hand wheel scale here I have 0 10 and 20 minutes we see that the 20 is just slightly past its marker which is the 0 here of the vernier scale just a little past and that's to be expected because I set it up for 20 seconds plus 20 minutes plus 20 degrees now the next operation here isn't necessary while at least not in all applications but my anal retentive self likes things to be nice and square so we'll start by aligning the base of this rotary table so that my scale reads 0 when this is perpendicular to the longitudinal axis so my base is aligned perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the tables my scale is set to zero I know where I am and now I want to mill this is just an example a 20 degree 20 minutes 20 seconds angle on this face of the partner all I have to do here is clamp this part to the table and I want to position that more or less Square on the surface I want here to the table so it's going to have to be very square but I'm going to start with just putting it approximately square and with a finger clap I'm going to come and clamp it down now then I'll clamp it down lightly then I'll bring my indicator up to the edge that I want to move at my angle or to my angle and I'm going to come and indicate that edge and put it at zero but very very very important here do not move the rotary table around its center axis we want the scale here to remain at zero that's crucial when we align this we align it by tapping it lightly with a positioning hammer to get it exactly or as perpendicular as possible to my longitudinal axis and that means that we'll be at zero here as well once it is there I can clamp it down finally or firmly and then and only then can i unlock my table and move as we've seen my 20 degrees 20 minutes and 20 seconds clamped my table bag down install a milling cutter and come and mill that side surface with the side milling operation and I will have milled the proper angle on the part quite accurately the next situation we wanted to look at was if we needed to mill a complete circle or a disk from a blank part and let's say that this is our blank part and we want to come and milla first thing to do here will be to come and indicate the center hole of the rotary table because I want the axis or the rotary axis of the spindle to be directly above the center axis of the rotary table now it is very very important to know that when you're indicating the center of your table you have to turn the spindle to do it so just barely know your indicator in both directions to make sure that you're in contact and adjust your table until you get zero all the way around now would be a good time to set our digital readout to zero now if you want to cut a disc from an oversized part and really leave the part quite oversized for this that doesn't have a hole in its center well all you have to do is position it as centered as possible I mean don't go crazy here that's why we left it oversize and really these concentric guide circles are really practical for that to help you to get it centered quickly and roughly so once that centered well I'm ready to start cutting once I offset now this is a part that some have a hole in encircled it's in its center so if I do have a part that has a hole in the center well it's even easier to get very accurate because all I have to do is deposit it and see this I haven't moved my table and still at 0-0 so my axis is above the center of the table well all I have to do here is position my part here and indicate its central hole as I've just done with him moving the table by moving the part clamp it down and all the little quite accurately be on center and then I could mill a concentric circle that would be concentric to the center hole that already exists now we're going to pretend that this part is mounted and that we have a half-inch tool in our spindle I want it rough but I know that I'm on center because my tool is above the center of the table I'm going to want to offset here so much let's say I want 3 inch circle well to cut a 3 inch circle I'm going to have to offset by half of that circle so I'm going to be moving in that direction because I'm not boring I'm doing the outside I'm going to be moving here in that direction from the center over one and a half inches or half the diameter of the circle that I want and very important also is to remember that that tool that were using also has the diameter so half of the diameter of the circle and I want plus half of the diameter of the tool that I'm using to cut with so half of the diameter is one inch and a half half of my tool which is 1/2 inch gives me one quarter inch so inch and a half plus a quarter inches one in three quarters of an inch I offset lock my table in that positions and I'm ready to start cutting so let's say I want to bill a half inch radius on the corner of this part well I have to figure how I'm going to hold it down there so I'm gonna put it at this bizarre 45-degree angle just because it gives me access to one of the slots here and I can clamp right down into that slot then and I'm gonna want to put the center of the radius with on this part is the center of this hole right smack on the center of the rotary table and to do that will seem as I am already in line well I can just put my indicator in the hole and turning the spindle I can indicate that hole and it will be Center however let's say I wasn't already on center here and I just wanted this to be centered on that well let's see it's offset and let's say I turn the table well that will indicate to me that this hole is offset to the table so in this case I could use the rotary action of the table to Center this hole but seeing as I'm already aligned I'm gonna use the spindle with a dial indicator to Center it up once I'm on center I'm gonna clamp down and then I can offset the milling machines table by the proper amount now I want a half inch radius here and I'm using a 1/2 inch tool so a radius is not a diameter it's already half of a diameter so I'm just going to do the radius that I walk 1/2 inch plus half of the day of the tools so that's a half inch plus a half of a half inch so half inch plus a quarter inch that is three quarters of an inch I will go and offset my whole table by three quarters of an inch now my part is centered on my rotary table the center of the radius that I want and it's clamped down it isn't really this has just made believe but what my part isn't is aligned with one of the axes and I have to align something this time I'm going to use the rotary table to align one of the sides and senses that my tool is Canora clockwise moving rotating tool I'm going to want this to turn against it for conventional milling I'm gonna offset this way by turning the table now I'm not moving the metal table at all it's offset in its proper position already it's going to turn it to get this perpendicular to my longitudinal axis and I can check that with a dial indicator adjusting it with the rotary table once I am perpendicular or I'm a zero on this surface I can note at what angle I am and that'll be my start point for cutting my radius I can install my cutting tool feed down and cut away ninety degrees further down to the other spot okay so I cut my 90 degree surface that's a little too far I'm just calling it out here okay now I've cut my radius that's all fine and dandy let's say I had four corners to do or maybe even I had several of these parts to do well I can save myself a lot of time by once the first part is done typing down two stops it could be a stop something like that we'll just do it this way remember if you watched the video on isostatic positioning and know what I'm talking about so clamp down these two blocks so that I can then come back to my original zero come back to where I was remove the part put in for my next one clamp it down and cut my next radius and so on and so forth so there you go rotary tables very very practical milling machine accessories I mean it's good for milling like we've seen here and it also is quite good at producing that accurate bolt hole circles not quite as accurate as coordinate bolt hole circles but still pretty accurate a good tool to have in your shop until we meet again have fun be safe and happy machining [Music]

Channel: THATLAZYMACHINIST

Views: 38,101

Rating: 4.8771501 out of 5

Keywords: milling machine accessories, thatlazymachinist, machine shop basics, machining for beginners, MACHINE SHOP FOR DUMMIES, free machine shop classes, LES PRODUCTIONS MAL, CUTTING METAL, CUTTING TOOLS, HOW TO MACHINE, introduction to machining, project for novice machinist, learning how to machine, metal cutting for dummies, online shop classes, machining 101, rotary tables for milling machines, how to use a rotary table, how rotary tables work, milling 101

Id: n9uN8-jg0Gg

Length: 17min 36sec (1056 seconds)

Published: Sun Aug 25 2019