Machining 14 Spokes at 25.714 degrees. Easy ?? ... Yep !!

hey guys Joe Pie here at Advanced Innovation's. Welcome back to the shop you know a couple of videos ago I did a video on an extremely small brass flange hex nut with an O 80 thread through the center of it I mean this thing was so small I could sit it on the tip of your finger if you watched it thank you very much if you haven't go check it out now I made that six sided nut in a spin index or spin indexers the 5c holder that gives you 360 one degree incremental options provided it's an even number right 360 degrees one at a time anything in between you're pretty much out of luck now shortly thereafter another youtuber demonstrated three other ways to do this using dividing head indexing plates rotary table so between the two of us we covered four of the five possible ways that it can be done now if you're following this channel you know that I'm making a scale cannon actually I'm making two cannons one is an artillery gun with the large slipped wheels and the other one is a deck gun that you find on a pirate ship small hand size but the spoke wheel the correct spoke wheel on a field artillery gun has 14 spokes 25 point seven one four degrees between the spokes now I got to think to myself when I did the research on this how did these candidate builders do this back in the day and if you're a subscriber to a channel called angles Coachworks I believe when I crashed when this guy is he works in what he does big wheels and stuff amazing I started watching his stuff and they came up with a few ideas but today I'm going to do a scale wheel a setup wheel this isn't actually the real one so I'm not going to make it out of brass I make your spokes out of brass for contrast but it's an aluminum and brass spoke fourteen spoke wheel and I'm going to do it with nothing more than a calculator and a milli Shayne and some rumors of course but if you have a calculator and math skills you don't need an index or you don't need a rotary table you don't need of the fighting head you can just get the job done with the material on the shelf so let's take a walk out to the shop hit the lathe first make the blank to move over to the mill and I'll show you how to put 14 holes in 25 point seven one four degrees apart without a device okay let's prep the wheel blink never I'd do a job like this I always deeper one side of the blank that I'm going to use when I stick it in the chuck move the blank around roll it around in your hands until it finds a seat if the saw cut isn't true you don't want any hard stops in the original operations when it stops clicking and moving you are probably pretty close to where you want to be the extension of the jaw is pretty far out yes it is but I do have my safety mark on it and this blank is thicker or thinner excuse me then this step on these jaws so reversing the jaws is not an option let's face it off anytime you have your jaw's extended like this take the machine out of gear and give it a little spin make sure everything clears everything good for all you guys out there that are thinking what's up these are standoffs that are going to establish the parallelism with the second side now if you think you can set up soft jaws and make soft jaws quicker than that I dare you okay I've taken a piece 1/2 inch aluminum just a little bit bigger than the diameter of the part and she clamped or can't to us clamp these are great little clamps the part to that blank I turned a tracking diameter on here so that I can indicate this we're gonna stick it in the vise I'm a pair of parallels can't do it while I'm holding it but we're gonna close it up and we have a stable base that we can drill since I have a CAD system in my office I went in and I laid out a 14 hole pattern so I now have the coordinates to drill 14 holes in this at the twenty seven or twenty five point seven degrees that I had on the screen inside so that's the next one set this up in here tram it drill 14 holes let's get it done okay through the magic of accelerated video I'm going to pop a 251 diameter hole in the center of this and 14 equally spaced holes on a 2 inch bolt circle okay guys note to self here if your head is not perfectly tramped to your table and it's an any kind of a projected angle actually greatly exaggerated here but lowering the table or raising the table you can lose your concentrating or the location to your part so if you go considerable on your on your elevation re indicate the part for accuracy you all right 14 holes drill actually wants to back I plan to drill a dream each one of these holes on location without having to go through 14 moves again I did that service a visual indicator that I'm in the right spot okay through the magic of accelerated video we now have 14 evenly spaced holes on this part I would like to share something with you that I've been doing for a long time that has saved me a lot of mental anguish I guess and you can relax a little bit when you do a job like this on an even number of holes chances are the pattern in the quadrants are identical and you can see that in this case this is true these holes are exactly the same length from the center as these holes and they're also the same distance off-center so in order to drill for these holes relatively quickly you only need to remember two numbers this coordinate here and then jump the exact same amount across and then when it comes time to jump over here well it's already set so you know what the number is run it to zero and replicate it and then exactly same thing here you can do that with these holes you can do it with these holes it's very easy to do and you can also do it with these holes these holes here would be the radius of the bolt circle because they're on sir it makes it a lot easier to do just a square pattern as opposed to remember or try to locate 14 different locations as you go around just remember the two numbers that define that hole it's the same two numbers here it's the same two numbers here it's the same two numbers here and you just pick a different set of numbers drill this one these coordinates are the same as these just positives and negatives it's very easy to bounce around a multi hole pattern using that technique all right show you what that's for so now you have a plate with 14 holes in it 14 holes that are evenly spaced you want to translate this ball pattern to the outside of the part now you have several options here if you want to transfer the holes inline with the existing hole that is not a problem we know that the angle relationship between all of these holes is exactly the same I'm sure you can just see it falling right out of there now if you want it right in line with one of the holes let's just say one two one two now by using holes on either side of that hole you can find that hole quite easily and guarantee you're going to come down right in the center of it I will put a pin in here in the machine and I will indicate either side of that pin to get my zero and I will bump the outside of this up against the stop now you can use one hole on either side you can use two you can use three whatever it depends but you can see that it forms a right angle to the center of that hole if you wanted to split the difference you can do that too as you can see let's say you want to split the difference also quite possible and surprisingly enough as soon as I can find my other pen right before my very eyes it disappeared aha the space is where the previous hole was we use the we use the hole as the index point prior now we use the space as the index point space one two three space one two three put you in between them so it's up to you how you however you decide to do it now there is a reason I'm doing it this way and that will become apparent at the end of the video but I'm going to use probably whatever hole pattern allows me to clear my vice depth and if it doesn't allow me to clear it cleanly I will use a parallel as such I'll show you the first couple of holes first couple of setups and then I'll run around it off-camera and we get back and take a look at it show you what the next stop is after that this is the setup that I'll be using I am going to holes off of either one planning on having the drilled hole in line with the index hole and when you tram a pin like this it is not all that difficult you just want to come down and find the high spot on the pin by raising and lowering your quill and then it's gentle rotation back and forth to make sure that you have a high spot and I don't know if you can see that the camera angle is pretty tough with the swing and 180 degrees but we are about 10 on the other side of the indicator where the word says sharp on the dial let's spin it around see what we have on this side okay ten as well now naturally I set this off camera just to give you the mechanics behind this setup but that's how you tram a pin to find the center of a hole if you want something drilled from the OD to intersect a facial feature now by simply using an edge finder against one of the surfaces here I can Center up the drill for the next operation and I will just repeat this pattern 14 times around the outside I'm not going to bore you with that maybe for the first couple of holes but not for all of them okay in order to index this thing 14 times correctly we need to have three holes between the pins at all times if there's more than that they're better be symmetrical about the hole that's in the center aligning it with the center hole is going to make it easier visually but that's what I'm going to do I will index this thing 14 times keeping three holes between the two outrigger pins at all times it is sitting up on a parallel on the back so that the bottom clears the base of the vise and there's a hard stop set on the other side and it's my awesome edge technology material table stop over there love it alright let's pop a couple of holes in it get its get it going okay hold number two I am indexing each one of those drive pins one hole to the left of the position that it was just previously sitting at down against the parallel push against the stops well let the spacing between the holes scare you it's a larger diameter greater projection it will be farther apart this particular reamer I've used this before this is a right hand cut right hand spiral flute pattern on this designed to draw chips up from the bottom of a bottom hole okay as promised 14 holes in the face 14 matching intersecting holes around the perimeter now we're going to go back to the lathe to finish this but that's not the next step next step is making the hub that's good okay we got inch and a quarter material I need a piece of coral off no specific reason I just think that's a good ratio out of gear stops are still in place and a measure from the part that's inside the machine to the outside cut it off is about one inch 300 long 60 61 inch and a quarter or else - 570 rpm quick spin make sure things get let's drill dream the same 251 hole through the center of this and now here's uh something a little bit out of sequence actually perfect sequence but not what you're expecting I'm gonna leave in the hub right where it is for now use it as an arm okay now here's a little twist that I'm sure you didn't expect let's stick the 251 pin in there and we're gonna put the wheel and let's press your turn the oh dear this thing get up nice light cuts I'm gonna switch over to a high-speed tool I just like high-speed better all watch the difference in the finish I would say that's good sir scotch-brite figured out of course all right knowing that this is just a test piece I'm not going to get crazy everything here is cosmetic go for about an inch and a quarter long about a 450 Center raised rib with a reduced hub on either side just strictly for appearance let's face it off taking right 72 more okay quick little machining tip here I need to take 70 mm more off the face of this piece right here if I face a cross chances of me rolling the burr into the bore and creating a larger birth in the bore that on the outer edge of this part is greatly increased so I'll probably go about 65 all the way across and then drop the tool into my 72 and pull it out that should give me a nice clean hole if you can see the hole now it's pretty ratty and that's only from a 15,000 T to would all that close that hole up let's see what happens legal are having its feather Ridge anyway okay let's do some cosmetic work on either side on a 450 hub in the middle for 70 just get cran sir if you find yourself in a situation where you need to choke up on a small shoulder which is what's going to happen here we're gonna put the pin back in the part and put the pin in the drill chuck turn the machine on the pinch should run relatively true what I'm doing all right up on the other side okay okay next step on the particular wheels to knock the center out of it we don't need the center section because it's gonna be a spoke wheel so we're gonna knock the middle out I moved over to soft choice for this operation so I can have as much surface contact on the outside and not compromise the finish or distort it cuz it's gonna get pretty thin let's see how we're gonna knock the middle out of that we're going to treat that in the middle out of that like a deep fascia lowering groove is any kind of look it's nice wide tool so I'm going to go with around 235 rpm and I'm not going to leave too much of that RIM left too much pressure as soon as it gets to those holes that's going to be an intermittent release of that pressure and the chance of it grabbing is pretty good I'm gonna change the rink on the top of this and put a little bit better surface on the front should be night and day difference when I come back okay I put a mild top break on that sharpen both sides and let's see if that chip flows out of there a little bit better anytime you're pushing on a tool like that it's a recipe for disaster if you got to push too hard something's wrong back off and figure it out you'll notice as the part spins you can see a difference in the color at the bottom of the groove that would indicate that something is flexing tools flexing the materials pushing away you're grabbing with the correct grind on the tool the finish at the bottom of the slot is much cleaner which is good the continuous chip and you can feel it as you're driving the hand wheel that it's a nice smooth continuous pressure on this now the chip will be a ribbon until you encounter the cross holes and then the chip is going to start to shatter not chatter and come off in little short segments you can feel it and you can hear it and you can see it there they go the tool has just made contact through to the holes I'm going to go 50/50 on this and that's a good way to do it I could tell well into the holes let's stop and take a look there you go okay slip the part around pay attention to the numbers that I just recorded going for the depth on that side get back to this other side and we will go partially through this not completely and just like a bandsaw cut you can hear the material start to whine down and if you don't feel like eating this puck when it comes out of there or jams up it snaps off the tool of ruins the part listen for that sound to get through the tinfoil stage and we're going to back off and stop at that point you can feel pretty confident in this operation until the chip is no longer a ribbon then you know that you're Midway into the hole yeah you can see if jars starting to break through fill the face of the material to look for any kind of a flex and when you can detect any movement whatsoever you are probably to the point where a good shock will knock this puck out and that is the plan I know that the grip on the soft jaws is superficial and that the puck being formed in the center will pass through the jaws without encountering any obstacles so you can see the chips are real small like they were on the first side and I had to go to voiceover on this because the screaming that's going on right now was just absolutely just distorting the sound of this camera and let's see or a soft-faced mallet and see if we can coax this piece to shear off couple of blows in the right spot once you got one edge that starts to crack stay on that edge and just walk the crack around there you go that's a lot safer to do but beware that you'd now have a little saw blade on the inside of this part and any indiscretion on your part you get out of shape or just a second and these things are going to remind you who's boss take a light boarding pass that knock them out stand to the side because these things are going to hang up in their jaws and come out like little razor blades if you're more comfortable doing it out of slower rpm so you can control that flight that by all means have at it and the trip on the boring bar does the exact same thing it's continuous until it gets to the holes I am now boring into the soft Chow to assure that the more that I've just created goes all the way across the face any radius on your boring bar when you hit the soft jaw is going to be a ridge on the back of your part so go beyond to make sure that that doesn't happen now you can rest assured that when was a solid block there was a lot more pressure on the OD in this part with the center being punched out like that the jaw pressure distorted this ring so it's actually no longer round as is going to put a little hundredths out deep tracking diameter on the front of this and we're going to reduce some of the jaw pressure and watch for a difference in the cut you'll be able to see some high spots at low spot maybe one blow spot but you will see a difference in how this tool tracks let's adjust the jaw pressure just a hair if your Chuck isn't nice and smooth get it to be nice and smooth because during an operation like this you don't want to be fighting the resistance in there Chuck you want all the feedback to the Chuck key coming directly from that part and not from grind built up in your scroll put it back in gear and just look for okay if you got really good eyes you can see that it's now an intermittent and you can see the difference in the two parts see the line coming around halfway there's a perfect example right there some cut some not kind of thing where you have your plug gauge that fits your part perfectly in the machine and then you take it out put it on the bench and come back from lunch and put the plug egde try it again and it doesn't fit and you think oh maybe they you know grew or something while I was eating my lunch no I changed as soon as you open that Chuck it's no longer flat if you needed something this then to be super flat a six job would be a better idea or strapping it down with face clamps and not putting any pressure on the OD at all would certainly be your best option keep the pressure away from the critical feature go perpendicular to it you can never go wrong let's finish up the board put a couple champers on this thing and take it over to the bench you okay guys it's all the time I have for today I can't shoot the machining of the hub but I really hope that you come back and see how that's going to be drilled these will all be sized off the thing will be balanced centered everything will be cleaned up it looks like a ship's wheel now that's beautiful I'm kind of happy with the way that looks that's kind of nice anyway 14 spokes without an indexer i hope that you liked the way that was done and I hope that you remember it but come back for the machining of the hub you are going to like how that's going to be done and it's going to be it's just gonna surprise you come on back for that anyway that's it I'm gonna be off the grid for a little bit so if I don't post the video don't hold that against me I will be back there you go 14 spokes no indexer who needs the index all right Oh indexer no rotary table no dividing head no special nothing well done thanks for watching guys as always dope I advance innovations about you

Channel: Joe Pie

Views: 74,932

Keywords: Joe Pie, JoePieczynski, Advanced Innovations, advanced innovations llc, how to, machine shop, shop tricks, shop hacks, shop techniques, shop tutorials, 14 spoked wheel, field artillery gun wheels, model wheels, spoked wheels, how to do bolt patterns, making rims, making wooden wheels, spin indexer, wirlly gig, dividing head, rotary table, ships wheel, scale models, wagon wheels

Id: 8UUjyxiGtrY

Length: 40min 13sec (2413 seconds)

Published: Thu Mar 05 2020