Patternmaking Fundamentals for the 3d Artist - Marvelous Designer/Clo3d/Everyone

hello all right so this is a big one this is pattern making fundamentals for the 3d artist now as always i should point out that i did i did not go to fashion school i'm not professionally trained with this um everything i'm going to be trying to explain to you i've learned from watching youtube videos or reading books or mainly just my own experience so if i get something wrong which i very well might have um i do apologize for that and um but i've tried to keep it to stuff that i can give solid examples for so anyway i hope you enjoy this and you learn a lot all right now the first thing i want to talk about and really the most important thing are darts and i'm really not exaggerating when i say that darts are if you understand darts you understand patterns a pattern is nothing but a bunch of darts really almost any shape on a pattern aside from a very few can actually be distilled down to some variation of the dart so darts are extremely important and that's what we're going to be starting with let me just go ahead and make a really quick front shirt here and then we'll get started all right so we've built this shirt and now i'm going to use some darts to fit it to the model here now before i do that i want to talk about the definition of of a dart and what it is so what is a dart a dart is a way of reducing the length of a fabric in a certain area so that the fabric will contour and conform to the model underneath now that's not a great explanation so i'll give a demonstration of that and what what the start is and what it's doing so the first type of dart that i want to talk about is the most easily recognizable type of dart and that is of course the long skinny diamond shape and there's a tool for creating that and it is right up here it's called the dart now to use this dart i'm just going to drag it out on the front of my bodice here um and now we need i'm going to well before we get to placement let's talk about the definition again what i was saying so what is this dart actually doing at its basic most fundamental level what this start is doing is it is reducing the length of this pattern piece right here by this much so it's reducing it by 48.5 millimeters so it's taking this pattern piece which the width is 245 millimeters or yeah 254 millimeters and it's reducing it by 45 millimeters now why is it doing that well if we look at the model underneath we can see that right here if we look at the length the diameter from or i guess the length i don't know if it's the diameter anyway if we look at the length from here to here this is actually this distance is shorter than the length up here so if we measure the length from a purity up here that would be a longer distance than the distance from here to here and so what this dart is doing is it is just reducing the length of this fabric so that it will match the curvature of the body underneath right here now that we know that we understand where to place the dart the dart the the widest part of the dart which is reducing the fabric the most needs to be placed where it aligns about with the smallest part of the waist and that is that is true of any dart you place on a shirt like this um and and what that dart is doing is it's just helping the fabric to conform to the shape of the model so now that we know that we can just kind of go in and figure out about where the start needs to go so probably a little bit lower and and it's easy to adjust this and you can do it you know whenever now this is really one of the reasons this is so important is because when you're looking at a pattern and you see a pattern that has darts in it the darts aren't there because the pattern says they should be there the darts are there because that pattern was built on a specific model and that model that the pattern was designed to fit on had a waist that was specific in shape and so the dart is placed for that model if your model shape is different and if you're 3d artist your model shape will often be very different you have to adjust the placement of the dart to fit your model so the dart is determined not by the pattern it's determined by your model and that's that's so important to understand um because if your dart is in the wrong place things aren't going to fit right so i really want you on you to understand the dart placement again i'm going to re-emphasize it's determined by the model and not by the pattern okay let's continue to talk about placement now now that we've figured out where the widest part of the dart goes and let me just sew this up real quick here so sew that up okay we've figured out where the widest part of the dart goes now let's figure out where this needs to go the top of the dart here needs to go toward what we call the bust apex now the bust apex is the widest part of the bus but for normal people it's generally the nipple now you don't call it the nipple you call it the bust apex so let's just put this going toward the bust apex and this is still too high so you want it to go toward the widest part of the bust okay so you'll notice i also said it should go toward the bust apex one thing you'll notice in a lot of patterns is that these darts like that go toward the uh the apex often don't go all the way to it and one of the reasons for that is easing and what what happens is that um if this dart point goes all the way right to the top of the apex you can get a little bit of slight puckering right in here a little you know and you don't really want that if you leave it a little bit short what will happen is that the the widest part of the bust will be um it'll kind of push out on the fabric and it'll force this part of the dart to smooth out just a little bit so when you're creating these darts that go toward the apex it's good to leave them just a little bit short um and and not necessarily go all the way to the to the apex now the other thing that's really important is you never want to go over the apex that is that is going to cause a lot of fish issues because obviously you're taking out diameter right here in the place where you need the most width and so it's very important when you're placing these darts like this to never go over the bust apex you go toward the apex but never over it and so that is how you fit um a dart like this and now of course toward the bottom it's it's a similar kind of similar thing um most of the time you're not going to have a really super long shirt so these darts when they go this way should just kind of go down pretty close to the bottom you know there's nothing special about it if you do have a long shirt just make sure your dart doesn't go all the way down here and that's that's pretty much dart placement on the front of a shirt all right all right so we've talked about darts on the front of a shirt let's talk about darts on the back now this is going to be especially important in stylized characters because a lot of times stylized characters have really hollow backs very curved backs and so you'll get a lot of bagginess in the back of a shirt so what we can do is we can use darts again to take in some of this bagginess and i'm going to use the same diamond long diamond shape dart and we're just going to drag it out right here now one thing one mistake i see a lot of people make is they make their back darts too wide what you never want to do is have a dart look like this um what will happen is that this will cause a lot of deformation um it'll cause a lot of pinching right up here and right down here and it just doesn't look very good so don't make your darts like this let's switch and don't make your darts small in diamond shaped like that okay so you can see what's happening it's causing a lot of pinching the longer and narrower your dart is the less deformation you're going to get like this so what if you need this much diameter taken out of the back because you have a very hollow back but you don't want to use but you you don't want this type of dart what are you going to do well that's pretty simple actually you just want to create two separate darts two smaller darts next to each other so all we have to do is create one dart like this and i'll just kind of extend it out place it right there and then this could probably be a little bit wider and then just copy and paste it over and make them kind of evenly spaced all along the back here and now you're taking out this much diameter like quite a bit but the in two separate darts so the overall deformation is going to be much less this is the same concept of corsets and and uh well yeah corsets where they have a lot of smaller pieces with smaller trans or smaller transitions to create that smooth shape so when you're working in the back instead of having one large dart try and have two smaller darts now the same principle applies here um we want to align the the widest part of the dart with the smallest part of the back so this probably needs to go down a little bit and you can just kind of judge it and figure it out and that should probably go about right there and that might even be these darts might even be a little bit too wide so i'll just shrink them up a little bit because i don't want it to be tight against the back i want a little bit of looseness in the fabric okay so that is how you create those diamond shaped darts in the back now a couple things to note back here one is even though you want long skinny darts you don't want to make the darts go too high up the back um they can go fairly high up the back but you don't want it to go across about right here because there's actually well maybe even a little bit lower than that there's actually another apex on a lot or on the back here and that's right at the shoulder blade and we'll actually talk about this a little bit later but some models have a much stronger shoulder blade apex than this model does so just keep in mind not to make your back darts go across the shoulder blade up here um i think that's about it for these back darts they work the same way again align them with the with the front dart here so that the smallest part of the waste is being uh cinched the most all right cool all right so what i want to talk about now um is the side seam now the side seam well not technically called a dart it is actually a dart and you see this especially on women's clothing well i guess men's clothing too often has shaping to the side seam but this shaping on the side seam this is again it's it's a dart and we can see that here i'm just going to add in a couple of points on the side seam here and we will align them on the x-axis so that they're that they're all lined up and then i'll just move these out and when you move these out and line this up and match that up you can see that this side seam is just another dart and it should work the same way as these other darts the widest part right here should be aligned with the smallest part of the waste and again that's just taking out all of this length from the center part of the fabric where the diameter is the smallest around the waist so when we do that and simulate you can see that this cinches up the entire shirt very nicely now one mistake i've seen a lot of people make not a lot some people make is that they'll try and fit the entire shirt using only the side seam or only a back dart it's better if you really need to fit a shirt that's on on a character that's got a lot of curves it's better if you divide up the the darts like this rather than just have one large dart because you saw what happened in the back with the one large dart you got all that pinching and deformation and again this is the concept of a corset where you have a lot of small changes that that affect the overall shape so actually this front dart is even too big so let's scale that down a little bit and so when you have all of these darts combined and added up they add up to actually if we just combined all of these widths into one single dart it would be an extremely large dart but we've divided it up all the way around the uh the garment here so that's that's how these diamond shaped darts work on a bodice and in general that's how darts work for everything this they are taking out a length of fabric um and it is this length of fabric where it is needed and in this case it is needed around the waist to this fabric is needed to um to be removed so that the garment will fit um so anyway yeah those are diamond-shaped darts so next we'll move on to just the v cut out shape darts so i'll see in a sec all right so we've done the diamond shaped darts now let's talk about the v-shaped darts that come in from the edge of the fabric and these are um these types of darts you're probably going to be using um a lot more actually they're they're much more useful i think anyway they work basically the same way as the diamond shaped darts what they're doing is they're just removing this diameter or this amount of fabric from an edge and one of the most common places you'll see it is right in here and this always happens when you have a um when you're designing something with a woman's bust you'll get this kind of gap right here and that has to do with the length of fabric that's needed to go around here um but then it needs to shrink down and fabric can't just automatically shrink to fit things it needs help it needs a dart in here so to create this dart what i like to do is i just like to create three pivot points like this or two pivot points and delete all the curve points well first let's talk about um another way to create a dart and that is just to create one segment point about where you need it so i'd want it to go about right here and i'm looking at that fabric and i just wanted to go at about you know the top of where that that fabric is so let's do that well this is fine anyway you just take one segment point and you can right click on it and you can add dart and then you get this dialog box where you can precisely put in the right amount um the right width of a dart that you want i don't like doing it this way because i don't need to be that precise when i'm creating a dart here on the edge of the fabric what i'm doing so i'll just create two segment points and i'll delete all the curve points and then i'll add another point here i'm constantly adjusting the dart to get the right fit because i don't care about the measurements i care about how it fits so what i'm trying to do is i'm trying to make it fit on the model and then i can go back and say okay so now that this fits i can look at my measurements and say that's you know 92 millimeters if i were to actually try and input it specifically to begin with that's just a waste of time for for this type of thing um so anyway i'll just kind of eyeball it and say okay i'll do about like this and i'll sew it shut and look and see if that fits correctly now one thing you want to always watch out for with these side darts is when you if you made a dart um let's do this a lot real quick here and you started your dart from a different position such as up here and i'll just put that and then put it down like this um your dart legs the the sides of your dart they're called the dart legs are uneven so when you're making a side dart always watch out and make sure that these dart legs are even and the way you even them up is just you know pulling it out and kind of i just eyeball it and it's if it's within a millimeter or two it's fine um i'm not super super precise on that so that's you know 116 and 118 and things like that so that's the one main thing you really need to watch out for oops and you want your darts to be straight you don't want any curvature at this point we don't want any curvature in our dart so just do that and then again this start works the same as this diamond shape dart here it should go toward the apex but never over it and so it'll look like that and then sew it up that's off by 2.7 that's fine and then if that's too tight you can just kind of adjust your dart here or if there's not enough you can bring it back out and just figure out the right width of the dart so that the fabric fits nicely right in this area so that is the basic idea of using these diamond shaped darts okay now what i want to talk about is one other area where you're going to see uh darts these diameter these v-shaped arts a lot and that is over on the back of your pattern and remember i always said there was an apex here now this model does not have a very prominent shoulder blade but some models have very prominent shoulder blades that you're going to be working with and what will happen is you'll get a lot of gapping right in here like you did on the front here now i'm not getting a lot here but sometimes you do and to fix that you can create a dart in the back right in here and i'm going to create one even though i don't actually need it but you might have a model that needs this so you have your shoulder blade apex right up here and actually sometimes this dart if you have a secondary dart up here can interfere with this area so you might want to just bring the top of this dart down a little bit and so you get that angle right there so that this part of the shoulder can be left alone now again i'm just going to create that dart the same way i'm going to add some points and pull it in and this dart should go toward the shoulder blade apex because this part of the back right here this is the widest part of the back this is the part that needs the most diameter um but up in here it starts the the shoulders they kind of slope inwards and so you don't need quite as much fabric here so you often have this dart right in the back here and this one is actually going to need to be pretty small and placement is going to be pretty important um you want to place it right so that because if it's too high or too low it'll kind of it won't it won't uh bring in the fabric correctly i'm not sure exactly how to explain it but just try try and line it up with that shoulder blade apex there and then check your line length is off by 4.1 so out a bit and again what that's doing is it's just reducing the overall length of this this armhole and so that it will cinch down tighter on the uh on the arm here or on the shoulder it'll it'll fit next to the shoulder a lot better rather than having a bunch of gaps um in in the uh in the armhole like sometimes happens a lot okay so those are generally the most common areas where you're going to see darts in a bodice or a shirt like this all right now before i move on i want to go on a little bit of a tangent here and talk about something else that's really important especially in the the rest of this video and that's angles now specifically what i'm going to be talking about here are the angles um that happen when you create a dart on the edge of fabric like this so when you have these darts on the edge the dart just doesn't just uh remove that excess fabric and everything is good the dart on on the edge of fabric will deform that edge and i've got a picture that i can show you right uh let's find it here so when you create a dart on the edge of fabric what happens is it actually goes in like this but it pulls the fabric at a v shape and it pulls it down and in and so you always have to keep in mind that this deformation is happening when you create a uh a dart because if you have if you had a nice smooth armhole here which i did before um when you put in a dart it's going to create this little pinching shape and it's going to not only um create that v shape but well that v shape it's going to pull the fabric in so it's actually affecting the fit of things so you have to go back and adjust it um now the way i usually do it is i just go in and kind of i just know that this needs to come down a little bit and i'll look at the 3d window and we'll just adjust the curves over here to return this to a nice smooth shape and also since when it pulls in when that um deforms it pulls in as well you always have to extend the dart out this way to return it back to a good position that you want it to be and so that's the way i do it and i've been doing this for a long time so i just kind of know what shape it needs to be in um but when you actually look at this in the 2d window and you look at this pattern if you didn't know what was happening you'd be a little bit confused because you'd say well wait a minute this curve kind of goes off this way and this curve kind of goes off this way this doesn't look right in the 2d window but if i were to um actually merge this dart together which i'll do here and i'll just cut this piece off i'll take this and we'll match it up you can see that this curve when it's closed like this this actually becomes um this actually looks right when it's or when it's matched up together like this and what you can do is you can actually work if you're confused about how to alter the edge of a dark you can't just cut the you can find an area on a pattern and just kind of cut it off and then merge the the two dart pieces up or not merge them match them up so you'd right click match up and i'll just match up the start and if your dart is like this which is kind of how it started um you can just do that you can just adjust the shape while the two edges are matched up and that way you can kind of visualize what's happening better and then when you're done just go ahead and take these two edges and merge them back together never be afraid to just cut and merge things because you can do that with a digital pattern it doesn't matter how many times you cut it and merge it back together it's going to be fine that's more difficult to do with the real life pattern but with digital just cut and merge if you ever need to um you do the same thing back here now obviously there isn't as much deformation back here because it's a much smaller dart but there is a little bit so right in here i'll just kind of bring this in a little bit so this angles in and we can look at that let's let's go ahead and undo that and so over here all you got to do is find any place on the side of a pattern and i don't i could cut over here if i wanted like this just an empty place on a pattern and merge it together or match it up and my dart legs are not quite the same length and you can see that there is a little bit of a pinch right in there so i'll just pull that out a little bit until this curve is really smooth and then just merge these two pieces back together and you can delete that segment point and you have the the original pattern back with your corrected dart on the edge so this is important um whenever you have a dart on on the side of fabric to remember that there is a deformation that happens and that you need to account for that all right so let's just go over a quick let's just do a quick overview of what we did here so we took this t-shirt shape and using darts we contoured the fabric to the model remember that's the definition of darts they remove a section of fabric to allow the fabric to fit and conform to the body that's what darts do now what darts do not do i want to emphasize this point because a lot of people i think get kind of confused about this darts and the pattern in general the overall pattern do not give the garment structure the structure comes from the model and i've seen a lot of people kind of complain about oh this garment didn't fit because the pattern i i it wasn't a good pattern that's almost never the case you could have the best pattern in the world made by the best pattern maker in the world but if the pattern is not specifically made um if your model does not look exactly like the model that that pattern was designed for it's not going to work so what is really the most important part to understand is what function the um elements of the pattern are doing to the garment and so we when we look at this start we know okay so this start here is cinching in fabric around the waist this start here is bringing in the armhole or bringing in this excess fabric around the armhole and so is this one and we'll learn more about variations on these darts coming up but i just really want to emphasize that point that the pattern does not give the garment structure the pattern only contours the fabric onto the model and the model determines the structure and generally the overall shape of the pattern so um yeah that's that's that's my point with all of this and we will continue on with more of that uh coming out so i'll see you in just a sec okay i'm back so what i want to talk about now is dart manipulation now dart manipulation is actually really cool and i find it really fun and exciting and dark manipulation is like the bread and butter of how you would create your own patterns or just work with patterns it's really important to understand but it's it's really fun so that's good now with this front bodice pattern i do want to talk about something real quick here and that's this really large dart in the front now in an earlier part of this video i i talked about how you don't want to make your darts too wide that's that's bad don't do that but you might look at this pattern and say okay so why is there this enormous startup dart on the front why can you do that um well the answer is pretty simple and it will transition into dart manipulation pretty um pretty well also so when you think about this front bodice here if you really simplify the shapes down it's just kind of a cone shape now what i have over here is a cone shape like this now to create this cone shape you just make a circle and then a larger circle and then you take out this extremely large or this piece out of it and this is just a large dart and it will naturally the natural deformation that would occur actually creates a sphere shape or a not a shape a conical shape and so um when you take this and you make two of them essentially this essentially becomes the shape of the front bodice so that's basically what happens um when you make this extremely large dart in the front now why can you do this on the front and not the back where i was talking about earlier where you do need a lot of where you need a large start well that's because the back is not a cone shape it's more of a flat plane and so if you try to create this extremely large dart in the back again you saw what happened it would um it would pinch in on the sides rather than just have that more um straight angle that you need in the back so that's the reason you can't do it you can do it in the front but you can't do it in the back now the reason this transitions nicely into dart manipulation is because well let me show you a diagram really quick and let me find that here so if you've ever been on pinterest or google image search and you've looked for patterns you've probably come across a diagram that looks something like this now what this is showing you is the locations of darts that that you can put on a front bodice now the thing about these darts is they're all doing basically the same thing um and it's showing you all of these darts but in reality you could dart from any angle any angle at all this is just showing you like traditional um dart locations that have names like if you darted from down here this is called a french seam or french dart and and they all have different names and that's a little bit hard to understand but if you look at this um simple cone shape right here what you can do is you can create a line from anywhere right here and you can cut and sew and merge that together and this this cone shape doesn't change at all um it doesn't matter where the seam location is as long as it goes to the center and it could be at some weird angle or even some weird shape like this and if you cut and sew and merge it together this is a very odd shape but the actual shape of this cone doesn't change and that's that's the basic fundamental principle of dart manipulation now oh what i was going to also show you is you can think of this bodice right well let's just look at this diagram again real quick so all of these darts here are performing the same function they're they're just changing the location of where the volume is being removed now there are slight differences in fit because obviously this is not a perfect sphere but generally these are not going to change the shape of the bodice very much so when you think about this this bodice here or the the front section you can actually think that this is built on a cone so i've done that over here i've created this cone shape and you can kind of understand how this front bodice works when you have that one extremely large start so that creates that general shape right there and then the front bodice is just on top of it or cut out of it i guess so you do that on two sides and that is why that shape works like that okay just this way now let's go ahead and actually show you in action how this dart manipulation principle works so since i have this dart all the way up right up to the bust apex here i've gone all the way up i can rotate this dart around any way i want so i can cut and sew i'll go ahead and merge those and so now i've moved my dart over to here turn seam lines on now when i simulate it's slightly changed the fit a little bit but not much it's basically the same fit and i can do that in any direction i could have it go up here cut and sew merge and so this pattern right here this looks really really funny right and sometimes you will see darts in this location and you'll see why is the dart here what's what's going on but it's just moved if you think of it as that uh conical shape it's it makes a lot more sense what's actually happening it's just moved the location of the uh of the dart so when i simulate again it's the bodice still fits pretty much the same um you can even go over to here cutting cell merge so now your dart is in there and again it still fits so that's the basic uh principle of dart manipulation so i'll go through and look at a few more examples all right so here's one that really confused me when i first started out and that's this back shoulder dart right here uh when i first started doing this stuff i would see this dart in the back shoulder and this happens on fitted dress shirts and blazers you'll see this and i couldn't figure out what it was doing well once you understand pattern manipulation you can kind of figure out and remember i talked about this apex in the back shoulder the like the top of the shoulder blade here and so when you know that you understand this start is actually this start that went over to the side of the armhole so let's go ahead and cut and sew that and then we'll just merge these two pieces together and then you can when you simulate the fit is basically the same i probably should have well it's not quite right at the apex point but it's the same you get the idea this start is this start that goes up to here because of dart manipulation and sometimes you'll also see this dart go over into the the neckline here so let's cut and sew that and we'll merge this and again this start here is doing the same thing that it was doing up here and it's doing the same thing that it was doing over here it's just in a different location so when you see one thing to keep in mind is when you're looking at a pattern and you see some crazy shape don't always assume that it's doing something crazy a lot of times the dart has just been been manipulated in a in a way that makes the pattern look unusual so what you want to try and do is figure out how that dart has been manipulated and if you can figure out where it started from a more logical location that you can understand and then you'll start to understand patterns um a lot of patterns use this dart manipulation in in some way and so once you understand it things just make sense um okay okay so what i want to talk about now is kind of how to modify this bodice piece right here into a different type of bodice piece that you'll occasionally see um and it's a good example of um pattern pattern manipulation as well so what i have here is you know it's essentially a crop top but what if i wanted to extend the the shirt all the way down to the waist or down to the hips right and just make the other half um so what you can't do is you can't just make another big dart on the bottom that doesn't work um and that's because the stomach is kind of flat it doesn't have you know the curvature that you would need to um have a have a really large dart so that doesn't work so how do we do this um well the way i'm going to do it is like this so i'm going to add a secondary dart up here for now so i'm going to make a line there and i'm going to cut and sew and now i'm going to match up these two points here i'm going to move my pivot point over to here and rotate oops rotate that down until we have a dart that's more reasonably sized much like the one we had on the the shirt we did at first so something like that and then i'll just draw out a rectangle here that'll be the bottom half of my shirt and what i'll do is i'll just sew from here to here so from here to that little snap where the sewing is now even then i'll add a point on the uh on the end there and then let's see i need to match these up wait oh no no i don't okay so i'll just cut this okay so i just want that to be that's fine okay and then also from here to here and from here to here so it again snaps to there i'll add a point to the end and we'll just uh cut this off okay so now i've got these two pieces that are going to be the uh the rest of the shirt there so i'm going to match this up like this match i'll delete all these curved points and match this one up so now what i want to do is i just want to create the the dart so i'll add in two segment points and i'm just going to go until they match up so they go down the middle like that that's fine oops match that up so i'm just kind of piecing this shirt together or the bottom half of this together from two separate pieces which is fine because we can again we can always merge it together so now this looks like um that shirt we had at the beginning so now all i need to do is just merge this in here and merge this in here so those are merged and we don't want to merge down here or anything now all we need to do is merge this shut up here and then this happens so if you've ever seen something like this on a pattern this looks like how can this possibly work at first um but if you divide it up here so i'm just going to cut and sew this again let's go ahead and match that up and match that up if you just do this and look at it this way this pattern makes sense because you can see the dart here you can see the dart here and it looks like a proper pattern but when you actually close this it's not changing anything it's just moving the dart locations and it creates this funny looking pattern but it works and it works exactly the same as as this pattern so try not to be afraid when you see these really bizarrely shaped patterns just try and figure them out it's not always the easiest thing but you know it's kind of fun i like figuring stuff like this out um but that is another um really basic usage of dart manipulation to create these these patterns so anyway i hope that was helpful now we'll move on all right okay so what i want to talk about now are curved darts and what i mean by curved darts are the convex and concave type darts where the curvature there's opposing curvature on either side of the dart so most of the time you're going to be using just these regular standard diamond straight edge starts the times when you're going to want to use these curved darts is when you're working with some with a very with the garment that fits very closely to the body a tight garment such as a corset or just a very tight top because the curved darts like this they add shaping to help the garment contour to the body so let's go ahead and take a look at this and show you exactly what is happening so if i have a dart that is curved in like this let me look at this and simulate you can see that it creates a curvature outwards like this and if we look at the original dart location right here you can you can kind of tell why that's happening the you can see that this curvature and that i've added in the dart it's basically just added a little bit of extra diameter to the fabric right here and then there it tapers off down here and down here so that pushes the fabric outwards this way so it creates a curve out now i don't have any really fancy technical definition or some creative demonstration to show you what's happening here you just kind of have to remember but that when you curve there's two opposing curves like this things curve outward likewise when you curve darts like this uh this way they curve inwards so that's really all there is to these curved type darts in terms of how they work okay now that we've talked about the shaped contoured darts i want to talk about darts that aren't actually called darts but they're darts okay so the most common place you're gonna see this well i guess the most common place you'll see this is the side seam and let me talk about the side seam really quick in the earlier part of this video i did a shirt with the side seam on it now in that video i made the side seam just a a v shape in reality or in normal making of clothes that side seam is almost never just a straight v-shape it's almost always got shaping to it so and and the reason that you you can see is because there's a lot of curvature right around this hip area right here so if you just had a straight curve it you know it would work but it works much better if you have a little bit of shaping to this side seam so this side seam is essentially a shaped dart um now one thing i want to talk about real quick is that i see this sometimes and it drives me nuts a side seam should never look like this this is not good um so what happens is that well it just doesn't work with the curvature of the body when you connect these two lines like that on a side seam this shirt will flare out and kind of pinch at the ends and that's because you've got this acute angle right here when a side seam ends it should end pretty close to straight so you you want this curve back here so you want it to kind of straighten out or if it flares like this if it does flare and generally you want this curve in here because this curve represents the curvature of the hip um but if it does end in an acute angle like this always make sure that the angle coming off is that it it starts at a 90 degree angle like initially this angle here if it is curved outward should start at a 90 degree angle and the same on both sides and i'm going to talk about angles more a little later on but angles this initial angle coming off here is super important to make your side seam look correct and not have that weird flare and pitch okay okay so these are princess seams and princess seams are a type of seam that has the dart built right in now if you've ever seen a pattern like this that's probably looks pretty scary and confusing but it's not because again these are just starts so when you look at a pattern like this you don't want to think of this as a bunch of pieces with random curves applied to them to just magically make an outfit when you sew them together just break it down into the shapes so if we line these up like this so let's go ahead and match this up like that we can see that this is a dart here like that so you got a dart in there and then you've got your diamond shaped art in here and that's pretty bad dart but you get what i'm saying each one of these is just darts now this looks pretty difficult to make but it's actually not so let's go ahead and show you how to make this okay so what i've got here is just a regular shirt that have a bunch of darts and i think this is the same one from the beginning part of the video and what i want you to notice about this is the fit if we look at how this shirt fits it pretty it fits basically exactly the same as uh as this did up here so when you're trying to create a shirt like this that has those princess seams or a dress that has those princess seams in them the first thing you want to do is just make a top that fits it fits very snugly and just use your regular darts because this is easy to do so now all we have to do is convert them into shaped darts and that's pretty easy to do as well because we already have the darts in here so now i just need to put some shaping in them so i'm going to draw a draw draw a line right here and draw a line right there and uh oops there we go and i'm just going to cut this apart so i'm going to cut and sew so now we have our piece that we just need to add some shaping on so let's just go ahead and do that what i'm going to do is i'm going to first going to work on this part and i'm actually going to uniform split this and uniform split this because and then i'm going to let's see just convert these to curve points now in practice actually creating the uh curvature in your princess seam can be a little tricky it's it's not hard on a you know understanding level but actually doing it can be a little finicky just because it's hard to um adjust these points really well it's not always easy the easiest thing so anyway i like to convert those to curve points you can use bezier chord points or any way you want to curve these and then i'll curve these in here and just keeping in mind the original shaping we can kind of adjust this to a place where it's curved and just look at your 3d window here and say okay this needs to go up a little bit and then okay so what i'm going to do is i'm going to delete that sewing and delete that song so i actually want to segment this sewing up and the only reason i'm doing this is because it's easier to keep track of for example i know that this point right here is correct that's the bust apex so i want a sewing line here but i want this sewing line down here to be broken up uh because that way i can just work on this one section and if something if the length here um is off it won't affect this sewing and these lengths down here because i have it divided up with the segment point and the sewing lines so that's one thing i like to do otherwise if you if your sewing links get uneven they're going to become uneven all the way down this seam and it's much harder to adjust so i just like to work in sections like this section then this section then the bottom section so nothing gets too terribly messed up so anyway now we're just using the uh these shaped darts like we talked about the uh convex and concave darts and again this the when you add some curvature out this way it'll help go out and then bring it back in down here and this is just going to be kind of a getting it correct like that and then we can check our strain map and oh wow that actually did really well and so you see with these princess seams you can actually get really um uh well-fitted clothing because these are essentially curved darts that contour to the shape of the body so anyway just add your shaping and i'll come down here convert these to curve points now maybe add some shaping in here and there you go now you've and then once you're all finished then you can convert everything to princess seams or not to curve points so everything is really nice and smooth and then just check and make sure everything fits and then you have oops let's go ahead and smooth that out a little bit well anyway you can go in and make your tiny little adjustments now one thing to really watch out for especially on this part up here is when you're making adjustments this length these lengths can become uneven very easily so you really want to watch out for that but that's the way you can make princess seams you make your just regular darts first and then cut it and then smooth the shapes it's pretty simple and that way you can create these kind of uneven complex shapes that work together correctly and it's the same process in the back it's just i would put one dart in and then you know the same thing and that's how you end up with this all right so that's princess seams all right so we're done with darts but not really i'll explain that in a second we're moving on to the other big part of sewing patterns and that's curves so why are curves so important and exciting if i might add um well let me show you this i've got this cone here and oh where'd it go where'd you go there you go so i've also got this other plane that i'm going to cut it along so this is a flat plane and i'm just going to slice this cone right in half so let me cut or let's trace this internal line i'll trace it as an internal line and now i've created a straight a perfectly straight cut across this cone now if i go look at the actual pattern that cut and the cone shape in general but specifically this cut even though it is a perfectly straight cut in the 3d window is a curve on this pattern piece and that is why curves are important because when you want to make something look straight or even you have to account for the curvature of the fabric and i'm going to go over this and kind of explain some pretty cool stuff about curvature but this in a nutshell is why curves are so important in pattern making okay now before i really get started with curves i want to talk about something and that's the tool i'm going to be using a lot in this part of the video it's called the fullness tool and it is my absolute favorite tool in clove3d now i say in cloth 3d because this tool does not exist in marvelous designer now hopefully they'll add it into marvelous designers soon because it is really really important it's it creates curves and as you're going to see in this part of the video creating curves is an absolutely critical part to creating patterns to fitting patterns just everything so the way the fullness tool works is you click drag a line like this and drag a line like this and then you can create curvature you can bend the piece of fabric and that creates curvature so the way that you can kind of replicate this effect in marvelous designer is with the fullness point tool this is called i think it's still called the slash and spread tool in marvelous designer and the way that works is you click and drag and then you kind of bend at one angle and this is kind of clunky because after you do this you have to manually go in and convert these to curve points or bezier curves and manually adjust the curve it's not nearly as elegant or as good but this is the alternate solution that for now you're going to have to use a marvelous designer but for this video i'm just going to be using the fullness tool and hopefully fingers crossed marvel's designer will be adding that tool soon all right okay so curves what are they now that seems like a really dumb question because a curve is just a curve right well there's a little bit more to it than that a curve is basically just a dart now that seems kind of crazy but remember remember at the very beginning of this video where i said pretty much anything on a sewing pattern is basically a dart well this is what i was talking about right here so how are darts curves and vice versa well i've got two pattern pieces right here and one is just a rectangle and one is the same rectangle with a dart in it and this dart is 100 millimeters wide now if you'll remember what darts do is they reduce the length of an edge you know that's what they do they release they reduce the length of an edge so first what i'm going to do is i'm going to take this pattern piece and curve it so i'm going to use my fullness tool and curve this pattern piece here so oops and i will reduce it by minus 100 millimeters so i've got a curved piece here now what i'm going to do is i'm going to take this top piece with the dart and i'm going to line that up and merge this together now i'm going to use the smooth curve tool to smooth these out oops smooth that out like that and that out like that and now what you can see is that these two pattern pieces are basically identical this one's a little bit different just because the way smooth curve works it curves it slightly differently than this but they're almost identical and so what happened up here with this dart is that when you have a curve that's just a pattern piece with a dart where the dart has been extended out infinitely basically so when we think again to what the dart does it reduces the length reduces the length of an edge this edge is now is shorter than this outer edge this is how you reduce the length of an edge in a pattern so that's what's really cool about curves is well there's a bunch of really cool things this is this is just the first one i'm gonna continue on and and explain some stuff i'm gonna try and explain some stuff i hope you'll bear with me because these curves are pretty complex and complicated so i'm gonna try and explain it just bear with me all right okay so you've got your pattern pieces your curved pieces here and as i was saying the curvature is what creates or is what shortens up the edge of the fabric now you might be thinking why can't i just shorten the edge of a fabric without curving it what's wrong with that well let's go ahead and go ahead and do that so i'm going to take this line and i'm going to shorten it now the problem that happens here is that you haven't just shortened this edge you've actually lengthened these two edges over here so if you look at this edge right here this is 167. but when we look at this edge that's 203. with these curves when you create a curve like this these edges on the over here they stay the same length and you can think of it like a bunch of spaghetti that's laid flat and pushed outwards when you push that spaghetti outward it creates a curve right and so and it also lengthens that top edge you can't just pull the spaghetti apart and keep it flat when you pull it apart it curves outwards that's that's the principle that's kind of happening here so when we take a pattern piece that looks like this and actually merge it up and create a cone out of it like i had in the first demonstration um which i've done down here and we can look at this so i've sewn this shape shut to create a cone and you can see it doesn't create a very nice cone at all and one thing i really want you to notice is that in the 2d window this is a perfectly flat these edges are flat um but in the 3d window the edges curve right and so what i i would i really want you to know about this or take away from this is that even though a pattern piece can look perfectly flat and straight in the 2d window that doesn't mean it's going to be perfectly flat and straight in the 3d window and a lot of this does depend on context of how the fabric is is curved because sometimes the when it's if you just have a curvature for example in this pattern piece a curved line like this and you cut and sew this isn't actually performing any function even though it's a curved piece it's just a curved seam okay so the last point i want to make about these curves is about the actual edges when you're looking at a sewing pattern it's really easy to think of it as a puzzle where all the pieces interlock together but that's the wrong way of thinking about it because a lot of the time the pieces don't match up they don't interlock you know really nicely what you need to think of these pattern pieces as is not shapes that are going together but you need to think of them as lengths and when you think about what happens when you sew two pattern pieces together you're not sewing two shapes together you're sewing a single thread to another single thread and because that's kind of what a seam is it's just a single thread and so it almost doesn't matter what shape that thread is as long as the length matches up and so when you think about it these edges are not shapes they're just single threads that have a bunch of fabric attached on either side and some of the fabric is bigger some of it is smaller and so when you think about it that way it's it starts to make more sense in a pattern and and how it's supposed to be used now just a quick example of that i'm going to sew this pattern piece here to this piece here so i'm sewing let's flip it around i'm sewing a straight line to a curved line however this sewing line it matches up in terms of length and so when i simulate this let's scoot it over you can see that this matches up but down here you get this this nice roughly effect and from what we know about this pattern piece now we can understand why this ruffling happens it's because this length here is longer so if we had a pattern piece that was just a rectangle a square rectangle where this edge was the same length as this edge and we sewed it on to and we sewed okay so we sewed this edge to here but we sewed it to this point so it would be smooshed you would get the same ruffle effect because this edge and this edge would be the same length but using this curve we've shortened this top edge so this ruffle kind of angles out that way and that's how you get that effect with that curve and so again you need to think of these edges not as shapes but as lengths all right now that we know about curves um what i want to talk about are angles now i've touched on angles uh in some previous sections of this video but we're really going to go all in on angles right now because angles are super important and i know i say this a lot but i really mean it this time i see people make this mistake all the time and this is the one that i actually do see people make all the time and that's the angles so let's say this is one of your pattern pieces right here uh let's say it's the maybe uh a-line skirt or something like that it's let's just say that and that's the front panel and then you'd have the back panel if we remember this cone shape down here we know that a straight line on the co cone results in a curve and so when you're looking at if you just had a front panel and a back panel on a skirt like this you'd say well i don't really have a cone here but you do because look you've got these two darts here and remember if you curve a smooth a dart out all the way along it creates a curve so this is essentially creating a cone so that's why you would need to create a curvature like this to make the hem look straight in 3d now you'd also need wherever it's sewn on to you'd need curvature up here okay like that and when you see a dart like this you can kind of understand why the dart any dart you put into fabric needs curvature this way also so what's really important is this angle right here this initial starting angle that should be 90 degrees should be perpendicular um and same over here because that initial start point needs to be perpendicular like this and then it can curve off after that but that initial junction it should each one doesn't have to be 90 degrees on its own like here this is a good example so sometimes you'll have a seam that's actually angled so if i cut and sew here and then merge here so now you can see that this angle here this is not 90 degree this is a very acute angle but when it's put together with this angle over here or this one right here an obtuse angle they add up to 180 degrees so it needs to be that initial start angle after that it can they can go in their separate directions but that will make both lines appear level and connect at a level position so that's kind of how angling works now let's go over to my pattern and actually fix it up because i purposely made this bad so we can look and see what we need to do so as you can see this might initially look like a good pattern but there's no shaping on the bottom hem here and now that we know what these darts are doing because they're making a a cone shape they're going in like this that means there needs to be a counter curve on the bottom of these hems to make them appear straight and you can you can see that right there and so that's why you need to add in this curvature and as you can see the other thing we're doing is we're coming off at about a 90 degree angle right there this is called truing chewing your seams or something there's a sewing term truing something for this anyway so go ahead go in and figure out and i just eyeball this just kind of look in your 3d window and figure out what needs to go where but once you know what you're trying to do it's a little bit easier to say okay i need to do this and then all right let's look right over here now this isn't this is an example of a seam that needs to be fixed so i'm going to match these up and we can see that this right here it comes off at an angle like this when the seams are matched up this needs to right here this needs to be 180 degrees so let's just oops curve that up like that and so now this seam comes off smoothly now obviously we'd still need to fix this right here so let's just bring that up until it's about 90 degrees there and then you can see that made it nice and flat there oh we need to bring that up a bit and so now this hem is nice and smooth and we'll do the same thing on the pants because obviously the pants even though they're straight here they are angled up and you can see the angle right here now obviously the body isn't a perfectly round cone there are some angles around the hips that are more angled than the other like the front of the of the body here is more flat so you don't need as much angling right in here but over here it's going to need more so it dips a little bit more there and it straightens out up here and that creates that nice straight hem and that's just because the change of the angle in the body affects the curvature you need to put on the hem and right here you can see that this angle is too much it needs to be closer to 90 degrees like that and then there's not much that needs to happen here maybe just a slight bit of curvature there and there you go now you have well let's pull it back up here this is too low so just looking at 3d window now your hems are straight and that is why you need to straighten your hems and that is how you straighten them so this is really important make sure every all your angles are good because angles are important all right okay now very quickly i want to talk about one more thing that just drives me insane and i whenever i see this i it drives me nuts okay and that's this area of the pants so often i'll see people make this pointy very pointy point on the pants here and this is not correct let's look at this let me hide these so you can see what's happening and this also relates back to the angle thing that i was talking about the angle from this seam which is a straight seam so we can just think of the the seam as a straight line even though it's a little bit curved it's still just a straight line this initial angle from here to here should be 90 degrees it can even be less than 90 degrees it can angle kind of up this way and you can have a little bit of a dip there but it should never be pointy like this because it will make the pants fit like a w which you don't want and it goes up like this so always watch out for this and it's very easy to fix we just have to bring this in a little bit until this okay so we're about 90 degrees there and you can see that there and then over here and don't don't go up and under here in your pants don't make like a a u shape or i guess that's a j shape in there that's that's no good you just want a smooth transition and you have to look at this angle and this angle so let's just fix that up and maybe even a little bit shallower in the front and we'll pull it down as well so i just want to point this out so because i i don't want to see this anymore i don't want to see the pointy w pants okay this is much better very nice all right so the last piece on this i want to talk about when it comes to curvature and angles are sleeves now sleeves can be pretty tricky to understand how to get the angle right as well as trying to get um get the cut correct and and that's where angles and curvature come come into play so let's say you want to taper the sleeves in well let's not say you you usually do want to taper the sleeves in and this is going to work the same as these other [Music] perpendicular intersecting angles what you want to look at right here because we know this is a straight seam so we need a perpendicular seam on top of it and so when we look at this this angle here comes off like this and you can actually add in a perpendicular internal line that will automatically create a perpendicular line like that you can cut that or you can just eyeball it which is what i usually do so that comes in about like that and so this is this angle that your sleeves come off at always depends on the angle that that sleeve cap ends right in here so sometimes your sleeve cap might be more of this angle and that means the angle here would need to be here and if this angle came in at more of this angle then this would need to come like that and then that would correctly create a nice clean um cone shape a nice clean taper of your sleeve because if you don't make these angles um these initial angles coming off the sleeve correct like this or like this if you just do these like angle them then you're gonna get some weird pinching in here and it's just not gonna fit very well so you want that initial angle to come off again at that perpendicular angle um the other thing that we can now um understand is the shaping so right in here this shape it goes like you know this and well since we've got this angle on here this is now a cone shape and when you have this cone shape you need to add in the curvature so we need to adding curvature here and curvature over here and this needs to come off at 90 degrees and then you will have a nice smooth sleeve that is correct in terms of angle and you can do that now that you understand what you need to do you can do it for any type of sleeve um and especially with something like a short sleeve like if i angled this up even more well then you'd want less angle there less angle here and then what you can do is you can add in curvature here because sometimes you want that to come down a little bit more and your sleeve will go like that now this is also important when you have long sleeves too because a lot of times you'll have long sleeve long sleeves obviously and so you want them to taper in like this so this is why you would put this type of curve in here you're just looking for that initial angle and then you can curve it back out so if this were say for example a puff sleeve like a very puffy sleeve and you eventually wanted this sleeve to go out this way up here you if you just had no curvature up here at this initial angle well let's see if we can get this to go this when you sew it together is not going to fit correctly in the sleeve let's see if we can see that real quick here it's kind of hard to tell but there would be this kind of deformation in here because the angles are they're not perpendicular and they're going to push excess fabric right in here like this so you can see that that nasty fabric there so what you want to do if you're creating this type of puff sleeve is you put this angle in and this is what this angle right here does it makes this come off at the correct angle and then it will correct itself and puff out now the other thing with these puffy sleeves when you make them like this and let's just fix this real quick okay so right let's just reiterate the reason you have this initial curve in here is so that this connects properly down in here or the sleeve connects up properly at the initial point down there okay so let's fix this okay so now we can when we sew this up and look at it now you can see that this is correct it doesn't have that crazy puckering down there anymore and that's why and the other thing of course about this type of sleeve is when you have when you're extending length like this you have to add in the curvature if you don't add in the curvature on these puffy sleeves this will not be an even curve all the way around you can see that down here it's kind of got that point like it goes down like that like you saw that uneven kind of cone i did earlier on that's what it's doing there so you've got to put in this curve and that will make the sleeve even all the way around because again this is just a big cone so you need that curvature that will allow you to make proper puffy sleeves so that is how you apply curvature and angle two sleeves all right okay let's talk about some examples of using curves in a pattern now the most obvious example is the waistband because the waist is just kind of a big cone so what i've got here is a regular waistband or a regular rectangular waistband now you can tell that because of this kind of floppy top here there is too much length what we need to do and this is actually a good way of figuring out what needs to happen with a lot of your patterned edges if there's a lot of excess fabric right here what you can infer from that is that this length this top length is too long so in some cases you can use darts to reduce the length in this case we're going to use a curve to reduce the length to make this fit so let's go ahead and look at the waist right here there's a few important things i've already talked a little bit about it but this front part of the stomach here there's not much curvature it's it's fairly flat so this part of the waistband doesn't need a lot of curvature as we go over here there's a lot more curvature so this part up here right a pin right up here this is going to need more curvature and it's going to continue on around the back in the back actually needs slightly less curvature but still you know a fair amount so now now we know that i'm just going to use my fullness tool up here to create a curve now the first thing i want to do is i'm going to curve it but i'm not going to give it a huge curve so let's do about 32 and i just want this to fit start i just want enough curve that it fits around the front so let's just do that okay so now that fits pretty close around the front now i'm going to use my curve tool again and go from about right here to the back let's do that and now i'm starting to add curvature from here into here or let's yeah so it's still kind of floppy from here and we'll go from there there so we'll go in here and now i will reduce this line length right here so i will move it down and again this line is staying the exact same length so that bottom line is staying perfectly fitted so this one will go not too much 23. so we'll do 23 millimeters there and that might be too much so let's reduce that curvature a little bit i'm going to undo that we'll just go and just go 12. okay that looks a little bit better now i do i need to clean up these segment points so i'm going to convert them into curve points and now back here i've still got a little bit of excess so let's go ahead and go right in here look at that to there and we'll reduce the line length here by 14. and that did a pretty good job okay so now we have is a nicely fitted waistband all right just a really quick note on waistbands you don't always need to make your waistband curved and fitted in fact a lot of times they're just they're not they're just straight strips so when you would want to make your waistband curved is obviously if you want it to be very fitted but it depends a lot on your model too if the model has very curved hips like this you're probably going to need some curvature otherwise you're going to end up with a lot of sloppiness at the top it also depends on the width of the waistband because when we look at this this is this is a very tall waistband and when we look at the length on these edges this here is 406.7 and way up here it's 340. so there's a pretty significant distance or length difference between the top and the bottom here but if we look at the difference between this which is 400 406 and this which is 392 the difference is much less so you wouldn't need the curvature quite as much so the wider it is the more and and again it also depends on the hips like if you're using a male model a lot of times the hips don't have nearly as much curvature so you can most male waistbands are just a single uh just like this and they don't have any curvature so you don't always need curvature it depends on you know the angle of the hips here and the width of the waistband so just want to point that out all right okay now let's talk about converting darts into curves which you're going to need to do sometimes and it's really easy a pretty common place you might want to do this is right here in the back a lot of times jeans have a yoke in the back and the yolk sometimes it's just a shape that's cut out but sometimes it's got the dart built in and that's really easy to do if your pants already have a dart like this and why shouldn't they just draw an internal line across like this so about in the position that a yoke would be on a pair of jeans and that's this little kind of trapezoidal cutout thing back here so you just need to go to the back of your dart or you can go you don't have to go right to the bottom of your dart if you don't want your yoke to be there you'll just have a little bit of a dart a dart left over under the uh under the yoke and if that's okay with you that's you can do it that way um so then what you do is you just cut and sew like this and then let me line this up a little bit better so add a point to the start and move this right there go a little bit higher and then cut and sew and then you just have to merge these two pieces together right where the dart was and that's already looking a lot like a curve but just convert your segment points into curve points or bezier curves and then just kind of smooth them out and you'll have to do this manually but it's it's pretty easy just check your sewing length and you see i'm off by 0.1 to 0.3 millimeters so that worked fine and now you have this nice smooth yoke piece that has the dart built right in and you can convert pretty much any dart well i don't know about any dart but most darts you can convert fairly easily to curves like this if you want to um even up here i could probably convert this this big triangle dart into a curve right up here so let's just try that so i'll cut and sew this let me merge these together and then just convert these into curve points and let's see so i got a little bit of excess right in here so i'm probably gonna have to do some adjustment on this after okay not too bad you see i've got a little bit of puckering right up in here so that's pretty easy to fix now that we know what to to look for i'm actually just going to kind of pull this curve down a little bit so that's going to reduce the length in there and i think i'll add a little bit of convex shape in there too that did okay so yeah now that dart is just two curved p uh two curved opposing pieces and now that you know you know what to look for this makes sense it's it's just this dart that's been moved and converted into a curve so those are some examples of how you might uh convert those convert darts into curves okay all right now i want to talk about collars but before i do i want to talk about a pretty common fit issue that is not immediately obvious what it is or how to fix it and that's this right here if you have this front piece right here that is just kind of floppy and doesn't fit very well this is just an alignment issue and it's actually really easy to fix so basically what happened is your pattern doesn't quite match up like the uh right here and right there don't match so you know and when you're working things can get misaligned so if this ever happens all you have to do is grab this shoulder seam here and pull it in and then we'll check it and that's pulled it in a little bit we'll pull it in a little bit more and you're just aligning um the front piece with the back piece and so it's even on both sides and then that pulls it nice and tight now you don't want to go too far with it because if if you go too far then this back can become really kind of have to start having the same issue you just want to move the the uh the shoulder seams in and out until the front and back back panel are both even and they don't have you know any of that mess so that's how you fix that issue all right okay so what i want to touch on briefly are collars because that's a good example of curvature in the pattern as well now what i've got here is just a straight rectangle with a slightly more rigid material applied now when i first started and i was trying to kind of fit this color to the back what i do is just kind of do this and as we know now this is not good and what happens is you get this little pinching in the back so what we need to what we need to do is use curvature now that you understand what curvature is doing and why things are curved it it it's much easier to adjust a collar so i'm just going to add some curvature right in there so right in this area here where there's a little bit of excess fabric and we'll just kind of shorten this up a little bit and that'll help get it closer and you can see everything is now all the angles are good and it's it's shortening it and it won't cause that pinching that collar just kind of goes right there now in the front let's go ahead and add a little bit of curvature because you can see we want to bring this up a little bit here so start and and callers really are pretty fairly dependent on the shape of the neckline the neck hole as well so it's really good to know how to adjust these so that you can have a color that does what you want it to do and once you know why it's doing what it does that's you know that's what you want so when you have a collar that swings up like this it actually kind of pulls this collar up and it helps it stay um up now if you want a more casual collar you can actually pull this out the this curvature downward like this start end and just add to something like this and this when you have a curvature like this this will actually push the collar outward so if you have a very casual collar this will help open it up and you'll get a little bit more of this kind of thing going on in here so if the collar goes up that means it's kind of pulling it in toward the neck and out you can get this type of effect so it's just the curvature in here and in here that affects the way the collar um works so once you understand that you can kind of adjust your color any way you want and you don't have to rely on just copying a pattern and wondering why it's not working or how to get it to do what you want all right all right now what i want to touch on very briefly are skirts because skirts use curvature and darts and i actually think making a skirt is harder than making a pair of jeans because skirts are once you learn how to make a pair of pants there's not much variation to it but skirts are all over the place but we'll make a basic skirt here so what i've got are two panels that i've just sewn onto this waistband here and i've purposely made this panel quite a bit wider than what i need because i do want to make a fitted skirt so to fit this skirt what i want to do is i want to fit it around this widest part of the butt basically um so i want it to fit at that point so i'm just going to kind of adjust the width of this entire panel here i'm going to simulate and that's actually just about right so you don't want to make it too tight um just kind of a little bit more here just fitted and this is the only part we're worried about right now let me turn off the activation there maybe a little bit looser okay so now that we've done that i'm going to just go ahead and add in a seam line right here so i'm going to cut this in half and i'm going to cut and sew now what i can do oh first i want to actually segment up this waistband tool so i'm going to add a point on the start so this waistband is in two segments now i can uh let's see yeah go ahead and i'm gonna add in a point right about here which matches up with the widest part and i'm just going to drag this over so that's essentially creating my dart and i'll add a little bit of shaping or my side seam on the side there and that's again shortening up this line length up here so it fits better here now when we look at our sewing line lengths we're still off by 10 and since i don't need so much shaping in the front i don't need darts and things in the front here i'm just going to move this over by about 10 until the sewing lines match up so by one and that matches up okay so now this front piece is fitted pretty well now let's look at this back here um so what i want to do in the back also is add a bit of a dart right here and we'll align this to the x-axis shorten this up and create this kind of curved seam over here as well so this is just a curve to dart on the side of the skirt actually i think i can probably pull this down and i'm not really using any formula for this i'm just kind of going by how it looks okay let's check our sewing here so i'm still off by 22 and i actually want to check my strain map here so that's a little strained in there but it's not too bad we're doing all right okay so now we just need to add some darts in the back here and the way i'm going to do that is i'm not going to measure anything i'm just going to look at this say okay 22.9 we'll add a dart and again just make sure the dart doesn't doesn't go across right about right here which is another apex so i'm going to make a dart about 22 millimeters just uniform split that down too high and sew it up okay but remember you're not quite done because we need to um correct for the dart right in here so just it doesn't this one doesn't take much sometimes it'll take more but now that you know what what you're looking for it's it's pretty easy to do to make this nice and even and then we can sew it back together and it's all lined up okay so with this type of pencil skirt a lot of times what you want is it to conform really tight now in most patterns this is as this is what they say a pencil skirt looks like but we need to kind of tighten it up so one way we can do this is pull in these side seams right in here because they need to be kind of in like this and then i'm just going to add convert these to curve points and kind of adjust the curvature in here so that it conforms to the shape like that and that does an okay job but it doesn't quite conform it in the back right here now i've never seen a pattern do this but since we're working in 3d and you're not making these clothes for your life we can kind of get away with some stuff that you wouldn't want to do when you're sewing if you were selling this in real life so what we're going to do is we're just going to add in a point right about there so where is that okay right about there and then bring this in right here so it tapers in at the back too now when we do this okay that's fine but i want a little i want it to be curved because i don't want this kind of point right there so we're just going to make this convert that to a curve point so the shaping kind of conforms back here and then just kind of do that so everything fits real snug around the back now when we do that obviously the hems are all wonky because we've started adding in these these angles so let's just go ahead and adjust them and use what we know which is okay so this needs to come down and maybe up a bit more and then this right here we can see that this angle isn't right so let's bring this up so that it starts at about a 90 degree angle and then we need to adjust that curvature back just looking at this to figure out how to make it nice and straight and then obviously here again the angle isn't right so pull this up add in a bit of curvature here and then i think this might still be a little bit tight in the back so i'm going to loosen it up because you don't want it to be too tight because you want to be able to make those nice folds and wrinkles so just kind of loose there maybe a little bit more tapered in the back and so now we've using what we've note we know about curves and darts we it we are able to just make a really tightly fitted pencil skirt and when we check our pose hopefully this will work and let's actually check the strain map okay so yeah that looks pretty good there's it's it fits pretty well this is says everything fits real nice and then when we pose it we should still get the proper kind of yeah so it's tight but it still allows movement and it still allows for these wrinkles to form if you simply make a skirt like this really tight when you close the character it's going to be so tight that these wrinkles just don't don't form or they're really deformed and they don't look right so getting your garments fitted right is really important to making the these folds and wrinkles look right and correct so yep there you go okay now i want to talk about something that you're going to see in a lot a lot of sewing patterns that can be very confusing i know it confused me for a long time and that's something like this right here now when when you see this at first you wondered how do i make this do i cut up a bunch of pieces and sew them on what's happening here so this is the slash and spread technique and they use this in real sewing they take a pattern piece and they actually cut it up into pieces and then they spread it out like that and the actual pattern piece is not a bunch of pieces cut apart it's actually the outline of this piece so what they're doing is this line length here is the same length as it is when it's all put together but this outer length is much larger so this is doing the same thing as i've been using with my fullness tool um so if we want to recreate that we would just use our fullness tool now let me show you an example of what that's doing so let's say i wanted to add 250 millimeters out to the out on the end of this so i'm going to go out i'm going to add 250 millimeters okay let's deactivate these real quick okay so that kind of creates this nice little wavy bottom because this outer edge right here is um is 250 millimeters longer now but if we just curved it and i'm going to use my curvature tool or my fullness tool like this and i'm going to add 250 millimeters here oops like this pull that up to 250. now this line length in here is again staying the same length and i've just add so now this line length here 678.1 and 678.2 it's the same so this is how you achieve this kind of wavy look without getting the puckering up here because this line is matched up with the hem but this line is much longer whereas if you just pulled it out you would get a bunch of gathering at the at the hemline which is an effect you might want but um anyway that's what this whenever you see something spread out like this they're just adding in that fullness and uh using the slash and spread method and you have if you're in real life sewing you can't just kind of bend a piece of cloth but that's the strength of digital sewing like this is that i can just bend it with that fullness tool it's such a powerful tool anyway i just wanted to explain what this is all right okay one more thing about these uh kind of roughly things at the bottom here um if you're working from a pattern and you make the shape that the pattern says but it doesn't really look good you don't have to live with it you can change it and it's pretty easy to change and know what you're doing when you're changing it because remember you don't want to think of this edge as a curve a shape you want to think of it as a single thread and if you pull this thread tight which it has been it's basically a straight line here and think about what will happen on the edge it ruffles but it ruffles depending on this length and we can change length in specific areas so i'm just going to use my fullness tool and say i want there's not enough you know waviness over here so i'm going to go in i'm going to figure out where i want it and i'll just go about right there right there do that and then i'm just going to add length to this outer edge so i'm going to go like this and so now it's the the curvature in this area is kind of less and it's much more over in this area so let's look at this and so now you can kind of control how these um how much wavy waviness you get in certain areas of of your of your skirt or in this case just kind of like this flare on the bottom of the skirt and say i want more over here and just add in some length that'll add in a little bit of length back there and likewise you can also take out length um you can use your fullness tool to go in and just say okay i want this to be a little bit less so you can do that you can reduce this line length here and with all of these adjustments the length the actual length of this is staying exactly the same so you're not changing the fit at all and that way you can just go in and kind of create the type of ruffles that you want so you really do have a lot of control as long as you you know how and now you know how all right okay the last thing i want to cover are something called dart equivalents dart equivalents are things like pleats gathers and elastic and basically all those things are doing are they're taking a larger amount of fabric and pushing it down into a smaller length of fabric and each one of those things has its own unique challenges because whenever you take that fabric like this and push it in there is deformation that happens along the edge i mean it doesn't just shrink down and everything else remains the same now this kind of stuff is a little bit more complicated too complicated for this video which is already pretty bloated so i'm not really gonna um cover it i'm just going to kind of tell you that okay so for example when you look at these patterns this is where the patterns get confusing is with these pleats and gathers and things because this right here this is pleat this is a big pleat so this is hard to understand and it's hard to do it's hard to explain and hard to do properly as well so maybe i'll do a whole separate video on this so this is an example of a pleated front um something like this is you know that a lot of gathering right in here and you have to do it in a specific way and the way gathering works is that it's similar to fullness where you can't just extend out a straight line you have to kind of do like the spreading of the spaghetti and create a curved edge but then there's also pleats and things in here um but these are called dart equivalents and basically that's just when you take a larger amount of fabric into a smaller amount of fabric without using a traditional you know dart um and then sometimes you'll see patterns like this and what this is doing is this is creating those little ruffles along the edge because this edge is longer and they're using the slash and spread method um that's actually something that's a little bit easier to explain it if you've ever seen the dress with the ruffles all down the front you've ever wondered how that's done you can actually do that pretty easily in uh with the fullness tool again so i'm going to use the fullness tool normally you'd use a slash and spread but that's kind of a pain in the butt and you'll see why so if i just wanted a bunch of ruffles down the front of this skirt i just need to extend the length of this right this line needs to be longer so i'll use my fullness tool and fold this tool on the other side and then i will just expand it out now this is the other awesome thing about the fullness tool is that when it's creating a curve it doesn't just curve straight lines it will curve these lines with shapes on them already and it will retain the curve just in a bent way so when this gets pulled back to normal this curve right here will remain essentially the same curve on the on this curve will remain the the same when this is returned back to a normal shape anyway so let me just do this and let me uh oops do this get this together and now that has create that's how you create all those kind of ruffles down the front on something like that and then of course you would probably want to uh put on some elastic on this front just to get it to stretch properly and then just pull your elastic in and so that's how you can create those that ruffle effect on the front and this elastic is a dart equivalent um because you have to account for the deformation that happens when you take a larger amount of fabric and push it into a smaller amount of fabric anyway that's pretty much the basics of pattern making and understanding patterns so i think what i'll do next is i'll try and go through a bunch of patterns and give you some examples and show you some stuff all right so one of the coolest parts about understanding pattern making is being able to look at a sewing pattern and just understand it and so what i've got here is a pattern and i've created it on this model now what's important i cannot stress this enough and i stress this a lot in my when i stream is that you should never trace your pattern i did not trace my pattern here what i did is i started out with that basic block shape and then i just began modifying it now the reason you don't want to to trace your trace patterns especially ones you find on the internet is because again the pattern was not designed for your model the pattern was designed for some specific shaped model that doesn't have the same measurements as your model and we can kind of see this here now this pattern is actually better than a lot of them you find on the internet so let me just copy and paste this over so when i try and actually line up and you can see here this garment fits quite well it fits very well but when i bring this up and i try and match it up it doesn't match very well um if i match over if i try and match length then it's way too big up here and if i try and match a line up here then it becomes way too small and you can see the um the natural waist isn't in the correct position and things just don't match up so if you traced this things would just be it would kind of work but it would be off by enough that it wouldn't look good and then you just have to spend your time kind of tweak something so if you trace something like this and you try to adjust it after the fact it's so much more difficult it is just incredibly difficult because you have to move this over here then move this over here but then that changes this over here and it's just a miserable experience trying to adjust like this so what you want to do is again you want to take that basic block shape like uh like this or whatever however you want you know there's different types of block shapes you can start out with and then say okay i'm looking at this now this is a little bit of an interesting pattern because this does have a big pleat right here and that's part of that dart equivalent i was talking about so what this is is just a big pleat and so if i were doing this i would ignore this and i would just build this piece here which i know is just a princess seam and a princess seam cure and actually the pictures are generally a lot more helpful than the patterns a lot of times so i would just make that princess seam like that you don't want to kind of do that cutting soaps and this is a lot like you know kind of sculpting a piece of clay in the zbrush or that basic polygon shape and slowly getting the basic shapes down and then refining them slowly and and just yeah refining them yes well anyway so you do that and then you do this and then the same thing on the back so you got a seam in the back and you'd cut this seam on the back and then you'd work on the bottom half here so i'd actually separate these two and then work on the bottom half and work on the bottom half here oh and it looks like okay so the top half is also a separate piece here so what i do is i would just come in and look at this okay so it's cut off right there so i'd cut it off right there and again i would if you start off with this shape that fits then all these adjustments you make will also fit and you will eventually end up with this pattern and you'll be using this over here as a guide but not to trace so that's the really really fun part of learning this is that you can understand what's happening so there you go okay now here's another pattern that i did and i've pretty heavily modified this one obviously and i just started with this pattern right here and again i didn't trace it i just kind of used it as a guide because okay you've got you start with the basic thing then you kind of make a princess seam cut it out here and then this is that curve out here that creates that ruffle in the front and and then from there i just continued to modify it so that's what's really cool about this is that you can just take a basic pattern like this and really make it fun and interesting and it's just it's really cool so this is something you should definitely learn and as long as you know the few basic things that's most of it and yeah it's a lot of fun now one very important thing to to know is that a lot of patterns you're gonna find on the internet whether it be pinterest or google image search or something else are not good patterns and you definitely don't want to trace them now a bad pattern doesn't mean a useless pattern because even bad patterns can be very useful um so for example this you're going to come across a lot of patterns that look like this and this pattern here is not this dress this is just some dress they found on pinterest probably that's like oh this is a stylish dress let me do an approximation of what that pattern might look like and so this is actually helpful because generally the basic shapes are going to be right like okay so they cut this off here and so this is a waistband they connect this up and it kind of makes a curved waistband which is this right here and then they've extended out this so this is one big piece and then it's gathered in at the waist and it is gathered in at the waist and then this the sleeve up here they've done it correctly they've expanded the top to create this kind of thing over here but then this if you just did this this is not how you would get these proper sleeves so i used this as a guide and then you just kind of fixed it and obviously there's some pretty pretty dramatic differences between that pattern and this one over here and as you can see with these sleeves okay let me just point out this this sleeve thing one more time because if you don't add this shaping what will happen when you try and make these puff sleeves is they'll be way puffy down here and there won't be a lot of puff on top so really important to get the curve right over here so just be aware that a lot of patterns you find on the internet are just not good patterns okay now the last point i want to make about patterns is about historical patterns i know a lot of people are like oh i'm gonna make some cool victorian style dresser a really cool um victorian gentleman's jacket i hate historical patterns historical patterns are some of the most insane nonsensical pieces of i don't know what they're just ridiculous patterns and so i've got some patterns here and this is this is some examples of patterns just so you can see so you might have something like this i can figure most patterns out i don't know what's happening here now there's a couple problems here that happen with historical patterns beyond the pattern the actual pattern is just being incredibly confusing the first is that a lot of times they are incomplete i'm pretty sure this is incomplete there's probably another page somewhere so you a lot of times you'll just get like half a pattern or a few pieces or these patterns are just done really weird if you're starting out do not use historical patterns it will make you just hate marvelous designer or clow 3d and never want to use it again because they're the most i hate historical patterns like this i what something like that even the ones that are kind of better like this this is a much better historical pattern but this is not going to end up looking like this i can almost guarantee you um when you actually break down these historical patterns even though they look weird they're still just doing the same thing like the darts in the front the back there's another seam line here if you kind of put it all together the overall shaping isn't going to be that much different than a modern pattern you're much better off just creating a modern pattern and adding some elements that will help it look more like one of these victorian outfits and another problem you're going to have with these victorian style patterns is that a lot of times there's like bustle cages and different things that um yeah the the structural elements underneath the outfit that if you just make the pattern it's just gonna be like there's no structure to hold it up so stay away from historical patterns unless you're like super advanced level historical patterns are for they're like hard mode super hard mode whatever the hardest mode is all right yeah all right so that's the basics to pattern making for the 3d artist and i really really hope you learned something because if not i i should just give up so until next time bye

Channel: Daniel

Views: 23,401

Keywords: Tutorial, Pattern, Patternmaking, Fundamentals, Clo3d, Marvelous, Designer, Sewing

Id: Ip19tUWELRk

Length: 125min 17sec (7517 seconds)

Published: Tue Mar 09 2021