How To Install Drywall DIY Tutorial A to Z

so today we're going to take the time to teach you everything you need to know about installing drywall how why is what's to do the right products the right tools the right materials so first of all let's just talk drywall turkey drywall basically dust pressed between paper you have two edges on drywall you have the factory edge or the butt joint and then you have the other edge which is a tapered edge no max if your camera can pick that up but it rides a certain depth and then it has a little scoop here and the idea being when you put two of these taper joints together all you need is one paper tape joint a fill coat and then a finish coat nice and simple you always have a gorgeous joint the more joints you can have that have the paper on them the less work and the easier it is to finish every time you put two buttons together you've got to go through another paper taping there it takes another coat of application and it takes a little bit of trick so you've got to have a lot more skill to do that kind of joint fortunately for us this room here it's pretty small so we're just gonna go with all full sheets of drywall this is 3/8 thick this is half an inch it's just the depth here the idea is when you put two sheets together you can tape that with only three steps nice and simple when you have really long walls drywall on that comes 89s tends 12 if the wall is longer than 12 then you're gonna have a joint it's gonna be a butt joint and that takes a little bit more skill when it comes to the taping and how to finish that we'll show you that soon but for today we'll talk about how to install this board now that's pretty flexible doesn't have a lot of strength to it so you need to have enough support and behind the wall to hold this stuff you can't just frame 24 inches on Center and use regular drywall you're better to go with the 16 inch so basically your tools are simply you need a knife you need tape measure D to drill Phillips bit but we're most people and this is interesting make the mistake they go to the store and they buy their screws and then box says drywall screws so they grab it there's a lot of different links and there's two different threads so what I want you to know is the fine thread screw is for metal stud framing mostly for commercial don't recommend metal framing in your house you want to buy the coarse threaded screw it's a wider thread you'll grab would better the fine thread screw in wood does tend to end up popping out on you because it doesn't have a wide enough thread to really grab the wood I see guys making this mistake all the time sometimes as ignorance sometimes it's laziness now here you can buy your screws in all kinds of different links the secret is this you take the thickness of your drywall half an inch you multiply that by one and a half that's three quarters of an inch you add those two numbers together that gives you the length of your screw just remember whatever you're screwing into your screw has to be one and a half times longer in the material you're screwing into than what you're attaching to the wall so you got a half inch material you need inch and a quarter if you're in total installing type X or 5/8 drywall you got to go to one and five-eighths if you're installing two layers you go to two inch some commercial applications we can have screws up to two and a half inch but use the right length of screw so that you're not accidentally screwing right into somebody else's wire that's key electricians run their wiring at a certain depth of the wall to guarantee there won't be contact if your screws too long and you pierce a wire you pay the electrician's bill it's not his fault so when it comes to cutting tools for your drywall you really have three basic options one is the knife the standard and when you're cutting drywall the knife really simple you want to just use the tip of the knife cut the paper it's just really delicate you don't have to dig all the way in if you get past the paper you're gonna be cutting into that powder it'll dull your blade so fast and then it's dangerous because a dull knife is so the one that's going to cut you the other cutting tool I like to use as the Rotozip mine has a little bit bigger knot on it here so my my bit is wider than usual just turn it on I should mention the reason this wall is up already is because we had spray foam in this building so we wanted to cover that up for fire safety sake so we have a window here I'm just gonna cut the majority of this window out and demonstrate how this tool operates [Music] now it makes a little bit of dust it has a nasty screeching sound so people who don't like that nails on the chalk curtain might bother you here we go daylight this tool is incredibly effective around plug boxes because you can stick it in run into the box jump the other side and they just follow the contour always use this tool counter clockwise and then you'll have great success now if you don't have a rotas it the only other option is good old sweat blood and tears using one of these little drywall saws these can be real effective the teeth are going to different directions so be careful if you cut yourself with this you cannot stitch yourself back together it'll be a nasty mess and it'll take weeks to heal so before you start your drywall installation the basic process is your sealing first then the walls there's no real science to it other than the fact that when you're doing your joints if the wall board is pushed up and get into the ceiling it closes up the gap it gets rid of all those little errors that you have with those rooms being on square when you're cutting the wall so you can have a little gap around the outside of the room it'll cover with the walls panels afterwards it's not really supporting anything you're screwing it to the ceiling after all so what we want to do is inspect your ceiling before you close you're looking for a few major things one let's go right up to the ceiling here match one your heat runs is there insulation between your wires and your heat runs this is brutally important in our region we have it in our electrical code that there must be insulation between the wire and heat sources has to not overheat the wires and cause fire secondly make notes of where your light fixtures are your smoke alarms your heat runs these are all things that you want to make sure that you take care of before you get started because we can use our Rotozip tool to cut around the boxes and all that sort of thing but only once the fixtures are removed so there's light is in the way really simple we know the power is off to this oh we got to do is just back off the screws and you could use a knife or a screwdriver sometimes I just cut the wires because there's lots of length here and I know a lectureship can wire this back up again for me no problem alright so we're just gonna pull that loose and we're gonna pull this loose alright I always wrap these things up before you put them back in the box just in case somebody hits that light switch by accident okay so what we have here is an interconnect that smoke alarm co2 alarm you can tell it's interconnected because it has a ton of wires coming in and out of this bad boy as soon as I take this off it's gonna start making a horrible noise so we're gonna wait until we're right ready to put the drywall up just so we don't lose our sanity so I'm just inspecting the ceiling and I see I got a couple of nails sticking down this isn't exactly a hammer but it'll do the job okay and we're missing one piece of strapping on the outside so before we put up our seal I'm gonna make sure we have strapping the same we want to wood every 16 inches on a wall you want to have your strapping on your ceiling about the same now it's very narrow it's 1 by 3 is what I'm using so usually when you're strapping if you screw the middle the strapping will dry out and twist a little bit so you want to do is you want to put two screws in just to make sure you're getting both sides so that twisting motion doesn't happen and I'll alternate that every other strapping just go in the middle simplicity um because we dry it install our drywall contrary to the strapping we're not concerned about whether it's perfectly on 16 some guys I see they try to make sure that their wood is perfectly centered so they can install their wood and on the joint that's a lot of extra work if you just measure off your room and put your drywall the opposite direction goes up a lot so here's a Renault tip for you when you're screwing near the end of a piece of spruce like this it's really thin start your bit put the drill on reverse and push and see you see smoke did you see that max when you see smoke you've cauterize that wound if you just drive a screw and a piece of strapping like this it'll split on you now we're done we're ready to install our drywall only thing left to do now is carry it down here from the chart so let's go get our 10 foot sheets no time to waste time is money dude that's a little treacherous Max has got the camera rolling so that when we wipeout not if he has it on film so the system here when you're putting up a ceiling need to remember that you're gonna have a half-inch drywall in either side coming up so you've got lots of room there for variance so instead of worry about if the room is square or not we're gonna do is we're going to take the actual measurement take it half an inch off and then when we install we'll try to split the difference in the gap and put a quarter inch on each side so we're actual measurement is 1:18 and 3/4 so we'll install it with 18 and a quarter that's a 10 foot sheet of drywall let's go get that cut if you're enjoying these videos subscribe to the channel hit the like button I'll most importantly comment on the videos by all means or a suggestion of video you'd like to see let us know we'd love to be in touch welcome to our video of how to install drywall in a ceiling to make it look like this using this and you can do it all by yourself so your standard sheet of drywall is 4 feet wide so you want to measure off 4 feet which is here and then do an eyeball so I'm gonna go right through the middle of my smoke detector so unfortunately for the first sheet I'm gonna have to take that off I'm also covering up my heat run here now this one is strapped down won't move out of the way so my drywall is gonna have to bend over it and cut it out right away so I wanted to do is get a measurement I want to measure to the middle of this so I'm 38 inches off so I make a mark 38 inches and then I measure from here 39 whatever way you want to market is fine and then after we get the drywall screwed up a little bit we'll get the cutting tool and zip that it okay so I've got my four foot mark now this is just a little trick that I've gotten here if you set a construction screw and not into your hand just pass your four foot mark I leave it hanging three-quarters of an inch right there now when I come in with my drywall I can come up I can hold the drywall the one hand the other hand I can put on this brace and you can see that that's gonna carry lots of weight that frees up my hand I can grab my drill load some screws put a few in nice and simple if you are working alone and you have to drywall your ceiling this is a great trick strap one of those suckers up there was some construction screws and then we have this block up here in the middle of the ceiling okay again construction screw all the way through attach it just past your floor foot mark this enables you to actually lift the sheet up put it in walk up the ladder with it hold it with one hand and spin the block over on top all right now I'm gonna do demonstration keep it nice and tight so what I do is I like to set up in front of my ladder and then I just take this sheet lift it up hoist it up over your head whoo once you're there you're gonna let that lumber there do all the carrying the reason you want to leave this nice and loose so that anything that's in the way you have a little room now we're good to go I can pull out the drill screw this bad boy in when you're taking off your smoke detector we have to take off two things one is the body of this and it has a little pinch on it you take this little plate and you just wiggle this off that's how they've done it this one requires you know pride and pull okay and then disengage this mounting plate push everything up inside the box lucky for us it's right on the edge so we'll be able to see it when we install the drywall if it's buried inside the ceiling again make your measurements mark it on the wall I always cut always cut as you go don't rely on your measurements to save you sooner or later someone's gonna forget to cut a hole and you'll do all your taping and the priming and you'll be like oh yeah where's that box so always cut a jig oh so now we're gonna install this as a two-man application once again very similar when you're installing a piece of drywall the same size as the room it's difficult to just lift it up over your head like I did in the demonstration so really what you want to do is you want to lay one end flat and lift the other end up go ahead there's always one guy that's high and one guy that's looked because the distance in the room from there to there now the room is almost 11 feet long when it's in square it's only ten feet long Susan if that corner it's 11 feet long now what you do is you pay attention to you're in and you keep it as tight to that quarter as you can okay and square and we slide it in together all right now we might even have room here to get this above our drywall I don't know probably not there's my third pair of hands the little block comes in handy even if you've got two guys working so I have a smoke detector and we've got a heat run and we don't want to put any screws anywhere near that stuff cause it'll end up breaking right through okay and that would be just a waste of time so I got a heat run over here so I'm gonna first screws gonna go on this trapping out of the way a little bit there we go I don't want to get anywhere near my Heat all right and then [Music] on each side using about three or four on each side of the sheet that's enough to hold it in place we get the cutting tool right away all right Catherine cutting to 38 and then 39 [Music] let's get a little technical guy Rhoda's it [Music] want to set the guard so that we're going to cut it properly [Music] [Applause] [Music] there you go okay so our box here is mounted up really too high for what we're doing here for finishing the ceiling and I've used flurry screws as well that's cool let's pull these wires out of here out of the way well it can lots of wires all right okay now we just want to drop our box a little bit so that our mounting screws will actually work we can put these on first the other mounting screw thanks buddy yeah let's get all these push back in first that'll be a nightmare try to do that afterwards when you're putting these back in check the pin position there's a couple of holes and then a big space in another hole make sure you line them up properly put it in backwards the first time you don't get the try again we're gonna leave that hang and until our other sheet goes in so kind of away but we should be fine depending on how comfortable you are when your drywall with sealing with the drawing it straight line it can be a good habit mark off where the wood is first if you find it necessary I generally don't do that but I know if some guys live by that one no also a good habit I'll just go five screws if you're doing renovation at your own home and you go four screws you probably won't have a problem but if you get sloppy and lazy both these things one of these days maybe you'll be working in a job site and it'll be commercial drywall and there's fire rating involved and if this inspector only sees four screws and a sheet of drywall he'll fail your installation believe it or not there's a building code for just about everything so this one here is 12 inches to the center the trick here is first of all you just need to get it up all right first before you do anything just get it up into place if it's a two-minute assembly it's the same thing the other guys in charge of holding the weight and not letting it bounce around because while is jiggling it'll pop off the screws if you're by yourself you're gonna need about six or eight of those little wooden blocks that I showed you that can be quite precarious now we also have an electrical box in the middle of the room so again we want to screw it around the outside perimeter I like to use my head in this kind of situation which is why I'm going a little bald on the top now the goal here is make sure that the drywall is tight together you don't want a gap here it just causes a whole lot extra mud and a lot extra drying you know where your straps are because that's where your screws are left off so you can get the first three screws in here without even moving around and then all I got to do shift my weight to hold that don't be juggling around there you're not allowed to move you just gotta feel the burn once I got a few screws on my side like a good neighbor I'll go over and put a couple in his - sooner or later the lactic acid will start to burn [Applause] so in this situation the box for the electrical is really recessed in the ceiling it's on the original joist not this traffic not a concern the electrician is going to come back and put the fixture up what you can do is he can buy a half inch extender it screws to that box and brings it down to a height where it closes off the gap it's good for fire separation but it's also good for mounting things I'd like to use the Box extender instead of just using really long screws just call me old-fashioned I'd like to have these gaps closed up just in case if you're enjoying these videos subscribe to the channel hit the like button but most importantly comment on the videos by all means or a suggestion of video you'd like to see let us know we'd love to be in touch thanks for joining us today today we're going to cover all the tips and tricks in drywall in 101 how to cut it score it snap it break it make it look beautiful alright so let's talk measure ah it's easy to get the measurement of the length especially have two people but the secret here is you need to measure at the ends in the middle and at the other end again so that you know how out of square the room is and the transfer that measurement on the drywall so that when you bring it up here all your right measurements are in the right place the reason I want to measure the middle as well is because I know the drywall straight but I don't know if the wall is straight this might actually be it all screwed together to a 2x4 that has a warp in it and I'm gonna have a curved wall and I won't be able to see it from here there's 22 and 3/4 so what we're gonna do is give ourselves a little bit of a break and we'll go 22 and a half knowing that the wall will cover the gap the middle is very consistent 22 and 3/4 Wow the freaky thing here is the outside wall in this wall we're pre-existing from the Builder would this be the first square room like ah nope all right it's closed story two and a half big surprise here's the other tool that I forgot to mention you're gonna need this is a drywall square T Square aluminum just leaving the back your truck it'll last forever don't abuse it though you want to make sure to stay square there's this tool is fabulous I've seen a lot of guys there's a lot of different ways in there cutting but what I like to use is this square because it makes my life easy my measurement from my ceiling drywall is 112 and 7/8 all I do is run over to the tape and when I hit the spot right I'm done I don't even need the mark on the board just take out my knife keep the blade short remember you're just cutting the paper don't do anything to extraneous here and then lift up the corner break it step in behind always keeping your hands away from your cutting area there we go that's how to cut drywall 101 our ceiling is also gonna get cut at twenty two and three eighths that's the width that we're gonna use now the fact that I can cut it continuous all the way across is awesome because I get to cheat this particular tools numbers running up and down both sides so a full sheet of drywall all you have to do is follow up to where it says 22 and three-eighths and then you can set your blade on the edge of the the edge of this square and then push the tip into the paper and then with your left hand sliding across the drywall pulling with the right hand mark the whole sheet together at the same time done a little bit of a pop very very funds from Happy Days now the deceit on the bottom is the one that I'm just using here so I don't want to set it on the ground so I set it on my foot and again I'm only cutting the paper on the back side when they badges these knives if you can't reach just extend the blade and that's the piece from my ceiling let's just go over a few tips and tricks here and how to cut drywall using your knife first of all you know what your blade extended too far if your blade is really extended then you start cutting your blade will actually Bend can warp and you'll end up cutting like an s-curve so you keep your blade short you'll cut straight that helps number two let's say it's gonna draw out a cut of our imaginary cut here okay so we're cutting around a box alright and I wanted to cut that you can't snap that so one of these lines needs to be cut with a saw so traditionally what guys will do is they'll take their saw out and they'll start cutting that line okay and they're jiggling around and fighting with it the way you cut with a saw simple little pressure lots of movement the faster you go with the sod the easier it is and you don't risk break-in your board the other thing you can do because it's only drywall it's not finished carpentry cause you can take your mark and you can just cut down to it cut it across now here's the fun part I can just reach over I can see my line underneath the drywall place my knife on the drywall I know exactly I'm gonna go so I looked to where I'm gonna go which is right here I don't mean these straight tools just look to where I'm gonna go and your brain does all the work for you and then you can cut the backside as well and you have a cut piece of drywall find it necessary to trim the inside corner a little bit that's it good to go don't even need that saw if you're cutting a curve let's say you're coming around a curved wall alright it's the same thing before a little bit of a little bit of flex now let's go up the other side you put that flex can you see that shadow yep like picks up the shadow so when I go to a bit of flex I can see the shadow and again I'm only cutting the paper so don't use too much pressure and you can cut a perfect curve cutting across the top and you're just taking off a little bit let's say you're taking off a half an inch let's draw the line first you can draw a line with it with that square instead of trying to draw that line with your knife in the square at the same time really hard to manipulate something really tight together same thing just draw the pencil line and you can follow the pencil line this way by looking just a funnier knife or you can just look to where you're going [Music] now that's a horrible job what I would suggest is if you're looking where you're going you know if you also have to have in your peripheral and then you're pretty straight you have more than one line in the same area you know your drywall is gonna be all confused if you have more than one cut because you screwed up put the block on the cut line that you want pinch it okay just beneath your line and you roll it over all those cuts will come off at the same time now let's say your scribed you've got a scribe surface so yeah bit of a curve going on and you want to cut that nice okay so you're holding your knife with your thumb and your finger you've actually got almost like a tripod going on you can squeeze the knife with your hand and leave your thumb and finger out now you've got incredible stability you can just watch where you're going using your thumb and your finger like a tripod to maintain where you're going because it's a curve yowzers and just put that little bit of a dimple in there create that shadow now if you go if you have to do a hole and you don't have your hole saw first of all points your finger you can draw a pretty decent circle here alright there's your hole let's say take your knife you get a little bit of a tripod action here if you don't have a hole saw or Rotozip you can use your saw and you just stab it through and cut the circle or you can just square make a big X on the back of your drywall this is what I was talking about earlier close the gap on the tape rejoice that one is a little split from the screw back it up till you get good contact there you go four screws will hold that until you finish it off if you go near the end you can actually keep your look and see if the strap goes all the way the end of it doesn't back if you're enjoying these videos subscribe to the channel hit the like button but most importantly comment on the videos by all means or a suggestion of videos you'd like to see let us no we'd love to be in touch [Music] so today we are going to be installing drywall on the ceiling alone now there's a couple of different ways you can do it you can be an absolute key man throw up some two by fours and maybe some blocking unscrews and lift that up and carry it yourself and spin them in place or you can go and blow thirty bucks and rent the dry wall panel lift this thing is amazing it is worth its weight in gold it's just a quick tripod assembly you can rent these things in any building store about thirty bucks a day give or take and to be honest with you it is the second pair of hands and drop that in there we go loose the wire pull that out ah that just fits right in there and does 360 okay nice and easy [Music] these things drop in there [Music] there we go so this is how this bad boy works it's euro sheet of drywall on there sits on the arms and then you just roll it over and you crank it up to the ceiling so all-in-all it's pretty basic simple construction but it has a couple of other bells and whistles here right here these extension arms pop out to help balance your sheet so you can carry eight tens twelves no problem all right so when you're working alone the whole trick is this carry your sheet white facing the lift and set it in so when you lift it up your white paper is facing you so I have pre-cut my drywall sheets to the size that I want to put on the ceiling in ultralight drywall isn't that heavy trying to get the middle of the drywall and then we just fold it over nice and slow this is really fun all right so we just cranked it up so automatically locks to release you need to basically start pulling and then you can pull the lever for that I'll allow you to come back down you'd like all the lever and then it locks in place okay it's on an airline cable so it should be safe but because it's spun around this wheel here when I'm working I try to keep my hands all on this side just in case because it's a tripod this allows you to go right up against the outside wall and so then once you've got it in position take these metal bars down because they will keep the drywall from closing up tight against the outside wall give it a little bit of a snug and then just lift you're in a position yeah you don't wanna be too tight because you want to be able to get that corner right where you want it once you got your corner of a good position then you can lift it up nice and snug everywhere in the holds in position for you so now you can get up on the ladder grab the drywall you can't even move this thing around so if you're out of position just come back down pull up your safety pull up on your tension release your bar let it down a little bit drop it down a quarter inch or so give it a little bit of maneuvering ability here okay there we go then it's just as simple as putting your screws in you know this is a way that you can do this kind of work on your own and lightning speed time certainly as a rule I like to throw a screw and every piece of strapping just to mark for the straps are throw a couple of screws in the middle of the sheet you can finish screwing the whole sheet without moving this thing out of your way but you might find it a little bit difficult to maneuver it might also find it difficult to get your line of sight right or they are making right where you're strapping is that it's in the way bottom line an 8-foot sheet of drywall if you had to just screws into corners on each side in a couple in the middle it would hold up by itself you can release the arm long before you're done okay pull it away again put up the extension arms again and throw on your next sheet so this room that we're doing here it's I think it's eight sheets of drywall long it'll take approximately four or five minutes per sheet to install you've got a couple mechanical cutouts so add a few minutes for that but we can have this whole ceiling done in about an hour thirty bucks better than hiring two guys to give you an if you're enjoying these videos subscribe to the channel hit the like button but most importantly comment on the videos by all means or a suggestion of video you'd like to see let us know we'd love to be in touch welcome to our tutorial on how to hang drywall there's not a whole lot to talk about until we have it so let's go get started put it right into the corner okay you get to drive the ship all right I know I just close it like a door okay that's easiest I know we both live together can we make it your side tight to the right enough okay and then you can see how the gap at the ceiling is closed real nice there we go so when you're installing a wall you only need a couple screws and then mark went above midpoint up if you only put them in the bottom you turn around to walk away you'll open a door to leave room create a vacuum with the hair pressure and you pull it right off the well some poor sucker be sitting here and doing some working take the back of the head never a good thing before you put the bottom one on mark all your stats by putting a screw in them all right and you can get your assistant or your kids to fill in all the screws later what's the height here to the ground now because this is a concrete floor underneath we want to measure all three spots actual number is forty four and a half forty five 45 there okay so when you're figuring out what to cut you take your shortest number and you cut it all to fit this okay so instead of one forty four and a half that'll be tight we're gonna go cut the whole thing at forty four so I have a half inch gap there and a one inch gap there it's not going to matter after the flooring is on we have a three inch base port lots of meat they'll work out real well don't be afraid to leave a gap underneath your drywall about an inch if you're going directly to concrete you definitely have to leave the inch never want drywall in contact with your concrete it'll pull the moisture out of the concrete into the wall board guaranteed to feed the mold that's naturally occurring in the wood and your baseboards are gonna go black okay have we marked the floor plug yeah beautiful to the ground where did you mark it hole on the floor okay that's cool so I went to the store to pick up a panel lifter cuz I got a couple cheats that I usually use but I thought you know if I'm teaching people how to do this on a video I should probably teach them about this great little tool there's a lot of different options out there were in the piano lifting department basically it's just a foot it's a lever point you step on it you lift the drywall and the idea is to save you time and money and energy you really want to get this nice and tight the gap it's the one you're gonna tape and the gap but the ground doesn't matter so we're gonna push it to the wall we're gonna lift it up alright there you go throw on a screw you know mission accomplished not a bad little tool it's a beautiful thing alright now like I've been preaching I always cut your holes as you go port in it from the ground [Music] [Music] well that markers close your mark was on the right side of the box so without that mint middle when you install your studs in your wall level and straight it's so much easier to put in a screw you can just hold roughly where you were release the drill and gravity falls okay that's where the wood is it's so easy you'll never miss and you'll never have all those annoying little holes to repair alright so that basically covers all of the basics on how to install drywall there's a couple of other little things that you we're gonna learn one of them is if you're having two sheets of drywall butt up against each other you want to have it joint on a stud right in the middle so in that scenario let's leave it this way if this is where the two sheets are gonna meet this is where you want them to meet right in the middle line so if I'm gonna be cutting a sheet like that I actually want to measure from the corner to that pencil line alright take that measurement and go to your drywall and then measure off your drywall from here to the measurement and make the rough cut on the inside corner leave all the factory edges butting up against each other cuz whenever you cut drywall you always get a little rigid bumps if you screw that up grab your rasp this is like a file for drywall works awesome you can clean it up make sure all your joints are nice and tight other than installing your drywall all you need to know is how to tape it so watch our other videos make sure to subscribe to the channel make sure to check out this project video this is gonna be a lot of fun so looking forward to seeing you next time if you're enjoying these videos subscribe to the channel hit the like button but most importantly comment on the videos by all means every suggestion and video you'd like to see let us know we'd love to be in touch so now you've finished closing up your basement and it doesn't look anything like this because you haven't taped it yet so the your next step is they go to with for the phone and call someone to do your mud work for you so here you go I'm gonna teach you all the tips and all the tricks that you need so you can finish it yourself and you're gonna do it like a pro you're not gonna do it like that little of course you get at the building store for two hours you're not gonna do it like they show you in the videos I've seen on YouTube so far this is a complete guide to how to buy the right tools how to use them and how to finish this basement like a pro with a finish that's even better than the house you're living in right now so first thing you need basic tools we're gonna keep it simple you got a four inch flexible blade knife alright this is the workhorse this does all of the little details and all of the setting of the tape the other knife you're gonna need and I'm gonna suggest this if you've never done this before is a 4 by 10 but the same size as a heat a hurry register in your house this is should be really sharp now I like this one this is a stainless steel blade it won't rust it's very strong when you buy it if you put art using it right away you're gonna get this little greenie look in the mud so grab yourself a sanding sponge sit down and watch your favorite TV show spend about 30 minutes sanding the edges and then you know go silky smooth when you're at applying your mud that's your secrets okay next thing you need is a hawk I've seen a lot of guys talking about these little metal trays and they put a couple scoops of mud in there and they carry it around and you're wasting your time you're gonna spend all your day putting mud in and taking my doubt of that little bucket this is a hawk this is the this is the workhorse for any - professional paper while you're working you can also catch any mud coming off the ceiling brilliant keep your floors clean other than that all you really need is some mixing equipment for the basics we have a slow-speed drill now this is something that I would recommend if you're gonna mix the whole box at a time it might be a tool that's not worth investing in if you're only doing your one basement so you can use a variable speed drill just make sure that you're only mixing half a box at a time so you're not overworking your drill and making it burn out okay we need some sheetrock 45 and this is just a compound that comes in powder form you're gonna add water and make your own mud this is designed to set really quick it has a hardener in it so there's different applications that you want to use a hardener and we'll go through those in a few minutes other than that you need some mixing paddles pails and water and a sponge if you don't have a sponge don't start go buy a sponge without the sponge you can't keep the pail that you're keeping your mud and clean it'll dry out get crunchy fall in your mud and as you're putting it on your wall you're gonna be making big lines and grooves everywhere and destroy your work so once you've got all the basics setup I recommend getting a platform like this as well these are really quick and simple they're made of aluminum and you can move that around real easy helps you to work on the ceiling stepladder or also work but again you're limited you can only work in a couple feet at a time so having a platform like this helps make the job go a lot smoother okay so you'll notice when you go to the store there's a lot of different kinds of mud available there's no this is CGC is a manufacturer but there's there's beige there's wait there's ultra light there's for heavy fill there's all kinds of different products I prefer to use the machine mud this is the one that's designed to go in the the we call it the bazooka of the big tube and it it's more of a commercial application don't go buy a bazooka they're very expensive but the mud is fantastic so here's what we do it's a couple extra bucks a box but it comes in a really nice consistency it goes on the wall really smooth and so what I do is I just take the whole bag I go save the box because you're gonna need it for the garbage afterwards turn it upside down empty it into the pail just like that pull the plastic over that's only 25 cents of mud left I like to stay clean if you really want to you can fight with that and get all the mud possible out of there leave out up to you now this mud is ready to be applied most people just take it right out of the box and go and they'll put it on their Hawk grab a little bit of mud it's very stiff you see all the air pockets and they'll just work it up a little bit and you'll see it get a little bit smoother okay that's not terrible mud but in my business inner pockets are very dangerous because what happens is they get settled in behind your paper tape and then after you've done your first coat you've got to go around and cut all the paper and clean it up and then fill it in and that's just a great big waste of time okay so what we do one handful two handfuls of mud that's it that's the whole secret put your mixing blade in there stick on your slope speed mixer now hold on for dear life squeeze with your legs start near the top really slow what's that water through all right and then just kind of finish whipping it up [Music] okay what's your blade back in the bucket of water keep that clean now I'll show you the difference it's already silky smooth all right it's a little bit thinner real easy to work with really obedient the air pockets are gone and I can use this mud from my first or my second coats okay and then you're gonna be perfect now for my final coat of mud we want to go even thinner because the last coat is really the one you're sanding I'm not a big fan of sanding in between coats I like to do clean mud work so what I'll do is I'll take another two handfuls of water and I'll mix this one [Music] [Applause] [Music] now this code is even thinner okay it'll stay on a hawk but it is really soupy that's the perfect finished coat when that's dry you can sand that with relative ease and if you have a nice clean application you're hardly have to sale it at all so before you begin the first step is actually to fill all your gaps so anywhere where your drywall has been installed on a bit of an angle and opened up a hole you want to fill your hole and you want to use something with a hardener in it because when you're taping if you fill it with regular mud and then apply your tape the mud will shrink as it sets it'll pull away from the tape and you'll get an air pocket so what we do take your knife now when you're mixing a dry powder you always want to add a little bit of water first okay in this particular powder it's about a one-third two-third scenario again we're gonna use a smaller mixing blade here you could even use a paint mixer or a grout mixer [Applause] now we take a look inside the pail this is all about what you see okay right now it's very lumpy well just add a couple handfuls at a time until we get it the way we want it that's the safest way to do it there we go and you mix her in your pail of water here's this is nice and fluffy okay nice and easy to work with but because it has a harder with in 30 minutes this would be hard won't drink anymore and you'll be able to tape over top of this alright so we've shown you all the tools and all of the mixing techniques we have our money are ready to go over first coat let's go fill some caps if you're enjoying these videos subscribe to the channel hit the like button but most importantly comment on the videos by all means or a suggestion of video you'd like to see let us know we'd love to be in touch [Music] you [Music] so we've gone through all of our tools we're showing you how to mix your muds now before this dries let's go fill some gaps before we get started taping we want to fill our gaps now this is my 45 minute mud it's not silky smooth it's a little thick and I don't need one of those little pans to hold on to it hocks are awesome you can have more mud and it's a lot easier to carry like this then it is like this you'll get nasty cramps so basically what we're doing is we're just gonna slap some mud up here and it's by the sealing cap okay this is just the more you can put up here the better this is not about being pretty this is about being quick you don't have a lot of time here so put our knife here we're gonna hold it on bit of an angle about 22 degrees okay we're gonna fill up that gap relatively speaking real quick and simple if it's not filled come from the top use the side of the knife to press it in and then do the same thing there all right so really what we're doing is just trying to fill the gap with this mud so that we can take this mud should be stiff enough to hold itself in place and this is just a little something so that when we're taping we're not relying on our wet compound to hold all up in place look at that hey so if you don't succeed the first time try try again just keep on going back and fill in the bottom filling the top until you get a nice and full like that that'll be good enough for us so usually you don't have a gap on the ceiling because you put the ceiling in first but if you remember earlier we had a spray foam on this wall and the client wearing it covered because they were concerned about the fumes from fire damage that'd be the perfect storm but you know we reluctantly agreed to cover the walls and now I'm faced with doing this mess but this is effective it does dry quick and if I don't do this I'm in for one heck of a mess when I'm doing my take joists we're still filling the gaps I gotta move quickly the trick with this stuff is work from the side of the knife don't put them out in this way come off the side of the knife it's easier way to put them out on the wall and leave it there then clean it this way put that in nice and [Music] okay there we go when we don't want any mud in this corner that shouldn't be there make sure you take time to clean it now that's ready to take this gap is about a half an inch it's pretty severe if you're finding you have trouble with that sort of thing happening take it out and grab some mesh tables now the fiberglass mesh tape is something that you should have on you when you're working it's a great little piece of tape to have in your toolbox it gives you a lot of flexibility to solve problems like this so generally speaking I like to use paper tape only I will keep fiberglass tape on hand for just such an occasion as this like to pre-measure rip it off for the edge of your knife it's got an adhesive on one side so what I want to do is put it up here and bridge the gap and I want to slowly just work that into the corner without cutting it nice and easy now fiberglass tape the unique properties you can use that to fill the gap this will help hold much okay you cannot use the rig in the mud with fiberglass mesh tape it won't hold for whatever reason I'm not a chemist oh I only know is from experienced fiberglass mesh tape isn't that stickball - mud and it will peel off if you don't use my brother harder now that we have that up there back to the same process the side of the knife remembers feet is very important here because this is already starting to set up pretty quick [Music] take all the excess out and clean the bottom a little bit blood there you don't need with some pressure so if you have some time work the joint just a little bit get all the extra mutters get rid of the wrinkles and if anything is you don't like it just push it up in the ceiling so it's out of the way and they'll be covered by the next kind of style here we go ready to tape if you're enjoying these videos subscribe to the channel hit the like button but most importantly comment on the videos by all means or the suggestion of video you'd like to see let us know we'd love to be in touch take the tape we shirts square it's not just gonna rip go right to the ceiling with it this is the only joint the ceiling that I recommend overlapping your table I always recommend doing your inside corners first I don't like to see paper over top a paper on the wall so when where did this ball joint I want to do my inside corner I want to bring my paper up to this point so I don't want to make this joint any thicker than knees to me this right now I'm just gently pressing that into the mud okay we need a little bit of excess now most people stop their hearing the secret when you're done get it wet and then take it off again and I'll tell you why that's so important to do if the surface of this paper is dry like it is right now while it's setting up and curing it's gonna lift right off that wall if your paper isn't wet it will form an air bubble again I don't understand the science all I know is from experience if I don't have wet paper drying on my wall it's gonna form air bubbles and it's gonna come off so I'm gonna just keep on wiping it on and wiping it off make sure it's nice and clean this way when I come back tomorrow I know I'm not gonna have any bubbles and I don't have to go backwards before I'm gonna go forwards again okay so we're gonna tape our horizontal joint nixed after we've done our inside corners again the system here is really simple you don't want to have tape over tape so before we can do our butt joints we want to have the horizontal joint on again we've had this build and it's dried overnight so process remember we talked about the taper joint so from about two inches up and two inches down it's all recessed all right just take your knife put on your mud this is a heck of a lot faster than any technique you've ever seen in any year before okay Wow come back and you're not removing it from the area that we're putting the tape you're just removing it from the excess over and above what we need remember that's higher and that's higher than this is so we're gonna fill the gap finish off the rest of the wall no sense taping halfway to the end of this wall and then stopping here we go now when you're doing this and we talked about the the crease you want to have the crease inside the wall so nice straight edge place that right where we're starting you want to know where it is just put your knife there it'll sit in the crack you can market there we go so now what we have to do is we want to get rid of the excess blood that's underneath this tape just to set it into mud so I'm gonna use my hock to hold it in my second pair of hands just the last couple feet here okay folks alright this one I'm talking about no I have one depth of finish okay so you can come back now watch this same thing off the side of the knife hit that paper wet clean it up no it's okay if you filled the gap between the paper and the edge of that recess in the in the drywall over losing my step here so we're gonna press it out clean the top clean the bottom take a little bit mud off the side then we've missed a spot very important make sure everything gets wet if you have a wrinkle just grab the edge of the tape and stretch it again just clean the mud make sure it's wet clean that up so the butt joint is one of the major reasons why we want to water our mud down the science is really simple because we have two surfaces that are the same thickness we're gonna add mud and then add tape we're creating a bump so we want to do is the science is to stretch that bump of whatever 2 millimeters over a large area so that we are causing ourselves to focus on such a large piece of wall we can't identify the fact that it comes out and goes back in again because we don't see any shadows this is not about levelling this wall is never gonna be level it'll never be flat you'll always have a bump you want to just make the bump so gradual and so wide that it's not recognizable one of the ways to do that is by staggering your joints don't ever put them on top of each other because now you're creating an opportunity if the Sun hits it just a certain way you're gonna see that bump ok so it's the same thing you want to fill the gap side of the knife put it on nice and liberal [Music] now when you're doing a horizontal joint you want to work from the bottom up if you do it from the top down and I'll show you this demonstration here we go goopy what's gonna end up everywhere okay if you work from the bottom down bottom up you have them a lot more control the muds getting pushed to the side while you're going up and it will stick to the wall take our paper tape check your edge make sure it's nice and square find that spot where we want to start okay press the meadow from behind set your depth just gently press it in not too firmly at this point okay now we have to hold the hawk and press up okay hello keep your fingers clean and also set it up so that you can clean them up from the bottom a lot of times you'll see you guys when they're taping they have a huge mound of mud at the bottom because they don't take the time to be clean with the work take the time and do clean work makes installing your baseboards easier okay so the other element of the wall you want to cover is the ceiling corners and then the screws so silly corners are simple same thing moja mud on come off the side of the tape side of your knife okay now there's that hardener we talked about earlier it's all set in place now we only did that 30 minutes ago but we're ready to tape the corner [Music] [Music] just making sure I have mud everywhere I don't want to have a dry spot good same thing inside corner measure tear rip install just place it up in there nice and gentle get your third hand press that in okay really nice get it right the refills out of it when you're done put your knife up against your corner create pressure turn it off that's done so how to fill the screw hole properly I know it sounds silly is the smallest issue but most the time when you're checking the wall firm perfections is going to be a screw hole problem alright so people come along and they'll wipe the mud in two different directions and that's great so you fill the hole problem is the mud shrinks when it dries and most of these screws have been put in with a dimmer and that thickness needs a second coat so don't just do it once and think you're done make sure every time you do your coat on your wall you hit your screws now if you go this way and then this way you'll get the job done so you'll see what happens it's a lot of work you're gonna have little pieces left everywhere if you have too much mud on your tool you're like oh oh oh so a lot of time to spend on a screw instead put it on the same way you're playing it off the side go up and down off the side and then straight down this way you're applying it on two inches going up and cleaning it with a four inch tool coming down no extra mess and you can do all the screw goals in this entire basement about ten minutes all right so the last element that you want to make sure that you take care of on your first coat of mud is your paper beat outside corners that have the metal on the inside of it okay there's two kind of corner beads there's this and there's metal especially there's three there are plastic those are for fancy things if you're doing curves you're gonna have to get that but we're gonna cover this one for first coat because I'd like to fill it get it in and then leave all this paper exposed just like the rest of my paper ducks I find if I put this on during the second coat and I try to fill it right away I end up putting too much moisture there and always bubbles so I always put this on in your first coat and won't cause you any problems this is really designed for bulkheads the way we do our bulkheads as we have to watch the video we set up a laser and now we have metal tracking okay so we don't have any wood in this corner to screw anything to so I want to just take my rasp make sure my outside corner is nice and sleeve and I don't have any protrusions did you see that keep your hawk underneath catch all your drips you never get mud on your shoes now you see all this masked mess down here we should have taken the time to put filler in here but if you didn't [Music] because this paper bead comes with corner let's pull a metal you can get away with using regular mud here and eNOS just get it all on but we just want a nice big wet line here that's wider than our corner bead [Music] right in the corner bead there's the metal corner this is the short side it's 3/8 this one is almost 5/8 the wide metal goes over the exposed drywall okay folks that's very important so when you're measuring always make sure you got a hold your held lis right so that your finish factory edge is going up another finish factory edge they just place it in use your knife now you want to have a gap so make sure you move it around and have a gap there's my ceilings check this out no gap so I can just pull down that corner make sure that I have a gap so I'm going to clean that out there gap gap that's what we're doing making sure that everywhere we go we have a gap to fill so that we don't have to bring the mud up and around to finish all right now again like I said if you do it this way and you let that sit overnight it'd be nice and dry and then when you come back to do your corner so you can fill it with 45 your quick-set mud with the hardener and then the bottom an hour later you can come by and put your finish coat on and all your outside corners you're done okay so that's basically all they you need to know about how to do a first coat so we're just gonna finish all of our joints and we'll see you again back here tomorrow if you're enjoying these videos subscribe to the channel hit the like button but most importantly comment on the videos by all means or a suggestion of video you'd like to see let us know we'd love to be in touch day two but joint we still got one choice on the ceiling just take that deer knife and clean that junk off now we're good to go so the same process you're just gonna fill down one side get a good pack much if you collect your mud and put on your hawk so you don't have much at the top and bottom it shouldn't land all over your face when you're working upside down like this okay now we want to clean by putting that pressure you see the ridge is too close there we go with the pressure on the outside over here and then one down the middle on the paper and leave those lines there that tells us where it is that we filled to and what we have to fill afterwards okay same thing coming the other way so in drywall less is more the goal is not to put on so much mud and then sand for 14 days to get it all nice and smooth the goal is to imply the mud smooth and then just sand to change the texture of the surface that's it all right so here we go we've got that all set up less is more if we put too much on there then we got to take it all back off again that's just a waste of time when chef all your butt joins done if you still have any mud left you take care of all your inside corners all right just a real quick look take the forest knife run your corner with it real quick make sure that you don't have any big chunks of mud there in your way again a little bit of mud I like to go with the left side of the corner first because I'm right-handed it just makes sense to me and then this is gonna go and put more mud than I need [Music] okay this is one application where you don't want to use the side of your knife because you want to set up mud going from zero to cover over that four inches if your tools clean as you go you won't wear it all right no what I want to do is I want to use pressure on this knife like this so I'm cleaning this mud as tight as I can and leaving the wrist now you see them to change direction because when you're doing finish work you always come towards your finish work now what I'm gonna do is anyone to troughout the inside corner with my knife I'm gonna put my pressure on it'll fill it up and finish flat without any excess you see that I'm not making the other side of that corner dirty as soon as I see a little extra excess mud I'll take it out hit the trough again clean my knife I'll start coming from the other direction this time always finishing to finishing to finish med the second second day first coat on your inside corners only do one side there's a tool on the market we should talk about this is I got a handle and it's got this little v notch on it and it's designed you put a bunch of mud in the corner you track it down and it's supposed to clean all the excess mud out of your way but it leaves way too much mud in the corner and the corner isn't sharp you want a 90-degree corner so use the two of the ninety degrees those are really rounded and then when you come back into sand that you're always going to sand too much out of the corner you know but these deep great big deep bruise in your drywall looks like hell so we saw on day one we like to install our paper corner beads and all of our bulkheads anywhere where there's no meat in the back of their rights no wood but on day two I like to put all my metal corner beads on and maybe the camera can pick this up but you'll see that as ninety degrees maybe even open a little bit more than ninety degrees what I prefer to do take two seconds pinch that together more of an 85 okay and the reason is when I screw this on I want the outside corner of that bead sticking out in both directions I don't want it flattened I know these are made for really quick installation there's a tool on the market for the professional drywall installers you put the corner bead on and they just slam this hammered device over top of it and it breaks the metal grabs the drywall and they're good to go but if you're working in your home and you're like a nice joint and this is the way to put it on we're gonna push it up to the ceiling now max maybe with the camera you can see this now I've got a gap here and I've got a gap here to fill alright so when you do an outside corner bead you're gonna have a pretty significant gap and that's a good thing and because we bent the metal and grate and created a nice gap we can use drywall screws again there is a blue ring drywall nail on the market and it's a nice little nail and you can hammer them in it's a thin metal it comes with a flat head and you can pound them in and it does a great job but I would rather have to push that get a good grab then I don't have to rely on adhesives or something mechanical that bust through the metal into the drywall it's a little old fashioned but I get to sleep at night and you don't have to put a screw in every single hole every 16 to 24 inches there's plenty always have a nice tight corner and you're good to go okay so I'm going to take my 45 minute mud here now we're gonna fill this metal corner and we're gonna go over to all of our paper beads and fill those as well day two is outside corner day and I'm just using the side of my trail and loading it on okay that's it folks coming back and taking it off I'm just setting my knife about three inches from the inside corner there I don't want to take out any more mud that's not necessary kind of that inside corner that's a fresh corner not using pressure on this knife because I don't want to groove it I just want to clean it up I made a mess of me inside clear so I'm gonna go back and fix that right away okay so this is gonna be a door frame really important when you're working around door frames you don't add a thickness to the wall next to where your door jamb goes okay so you don't want to just have this huge pile of mud sitting there like that all right that's going to cause you a whole world of hurt when it goes to do finishing trim you want to clean as tight as you can from that drywall to the outside of that quarter so put your knife on there use some pressure we got a 45 minute mud on her Huck probably talking and moving a little faster as it dries but you want to just take your knife double check that everything has cleaned up before you get started fill it and just I'm kind of doing like a rolling I'm starting like that and rolling it off okay just so that I leave them up on the wall that's just easier then you can go back with a little bit of better pressure okay and I don't need this to be perfect I just need it not to be bumpy I don't want anything sticking out further than what I'm gonna have as a finish because we're gonna come back in about a half an hour and put another coat on it now when you're doing underneath again start from the outside roll it off at the corners when you come to one of these outside corners come at it from the angle so you're finishing on both metals at the same time okay that'll set the depth of the mud real nice and then when you're ready to clean it off you can come out of this way he's off on the pressure come out of this way he's off on the pressure and then come out from the backside all right you're gonna see those ridges they're not your enemy you can clean them up a little bit but leave the ridges there something like that okay so we're still working on our second coat so I'd like to work through my room clockwise cuz I'm right-handed that way I'm always finishing towards my finished mutt so I did my outside corner up down my inside corner now we're gonna do a horizontal joints this is day two and this is a Phil Coke day what we're looking is we're looking at throwing a lot of mud on the wall to fill the quote from here to here and then maybe just stretch it out just a hair make sure that it's all nice and level so when you're doing that you want to put pressure on the bottom on a bit of an angle here so you're not pouring mud all over the floor okay clean off all the excess and then with a little bit of pressure top and bottom nice and even fill it all in that's it we don't want to see this on second coat I don't want to see that if you can't see the tape you've used too much mud all right the mud is somewhat translucent when you do it properly you should be able to see your tape through the mud okay you want to see the definition of the taper joint and you want to know that you've just filled what's necessary and that's it and you've taken the rest of that mud off the wall second opportunity hit the screw holes okay never let an opportunity go by to hit the screw holes gives you an opportunity a and make sure that they're all sunk you don't have the head sticking out oh [Music] we have a real need to investigate okay so somewhere during the construction here that screw hole missed the mark and it's getting filled when that happens don't just cover it up with mud and cover it up with mud and then sand it bump smooth dent it with your handle fill that hole with mud all right same with this this is a bit of a mess okay add mud at paper [Music] here's the crazy part now this patch is back to first coat this is ultimately the problem so the way we fix this is tomorrow when we come when this is dry we'll actually hit this with some 45 minute mud and then we'll do the finish coat on the top that way the whole jobs finished together all right so the only thing left to do on second coat is to hit your outside corners with your finished mud here's that you do let's take a finger in it if it makes a hole it's not dry leave it alone till it's dry if you're enjoying these videos subscribe to the channel hit the like button but most importantly comment on the videos by all means or a suggestion of video you'd like to see let us know we'd love to be in touch here we are on day three of the mud work so day one we did all of our tape joints day two we did our inside and inside corners and we took care of our butt joints day three now it's time to take care of all the horizontals so first of all we have to get rid of all these ridges that are left over from day two okay this is all I do you don't need to sand now we're ready to mud so we're gonna take our mud on our ten inch trout slap it on put an angle on it put pressure on the bottom so we're constantly forcing them up don't do anything special around those plugins and switches just keep on filling all right now if you do it that way it's not gonna end up all over the floor okay right over here but joint we're just cleaning this edge right you know we want to be able to see our paper we don't want to use too much mud okay now we're gonna come back the other way and finish towards what's finished top and bottom pressure along the middle we're not just throwing a bunch of mud on the wall we're trying to fill from here to here and make it smooth fresh across the top fresh across the bottom very very important if you have a huge job like a basement to do and you start day three of taping with your horizontals you can come back now at the end of the day and hit your butt joints again but don't do it until this mud is dried up okay give it a few hours to set up against stiff because your last thing you wanna do is start coming down here and putting grooves in that finish coat that would be a no no all right on your third day of working in your basement you want to do the rest here inside corners now you'll see here this mud is actually still wet you can see the dark line all right we don't want to be doing that one but the ceiling looks perfect so that's why you want to do your inside corners as as soon as you can get to it because sometimes they take an extra day to dry out especially in a basement you're below grade there's not as much place for the moisture to go because it's on a vapour barrier wall so the place that the moisture can go is back into the room where a lot of these interior walls the moisture can go from the drywall in both directions so they tend to drive faster so we'll get up here it's a little bit of a cramped space but I want to be able to see what I'm doing again before we get started we'll just put the knife across make sure we don't have any ridges or bumps or chunks of mud thinner in our way all right working from the side of the knife we want to just put the mud up towards the ceiling the reason we want to wait until it's dry is because we're using the surface here as our edge it's gonna guide us so now we're gonna come back with our knife and we're gonna go like this and you're gonna see a little bit of a ridge line here that happens come back the other way and we're gonna clean out a groove again just like we did the first time and then I'm gonna start right in my corner make this pretty I always take time in your corners and make them pretty there we go I'm gonna run this across I'm starting to get a bit of a snowplow I'll come by and clean it up knowing I'm gonna finish towards what's finished Oh see that a little bit of a ridge there's cuz the mud isn't quite dry enough I'll be real gentle with this okay so we did our 45 minute mud now it's hard it doesn't have to be dry just hard and we're gonna finish it with our finish mud and this is the one that we got a little bit wetter than their other coat okay so we're just gonna put it on pretty liberal here we go right up to the top lay then give it a jiggle all right folks so it's the end of day 3 our horizontals are all drying up real nice so now we're ready to hit the butt joints before we walk out the door we're just gonna take our knife scratch down the side hit the bottom make sure all the junk is out of the way make sure your knife is nice and clean load it up all right now we've already filled from here you can see the ridge that's where we filled to right so what we want to do now is go from there even further all right put a nice healthy whack of mutton in that line okay that stretches the joint out then you go one more over the middle now this one's a little bit different because the last time we started from the outside with pressure work into the middle this time we're gonna start the middle working the outside alright so again lots of pressure here we don't want to make the joint any thicker than it already is and now we're gonna go with the outside pressure we're basically working off that Ridge okay and then one more time a little further up and we just want to clean up down here because we don't have a bunch of mud where we're baseboards are going again édouard pressure come at it from both directions get rid of all that extra mud now your butt joint is really filled and really stretched if you see junk in the mud get rid of it you don't want to have it there making grooves alright so by the end of your third day of doing mud you've got your taping you've done your inside corners you've done your butt joints you'd under horizontals you've done your outside corners your paper your metal your filler your finished coat hopefully if things have dried well you've done your inside corners on the other side and you've hit your screw holes two times maybe three you've had a chance to go around and find imperfections fill them up with tape repair anything that needs to be repaired and all that's left now is the finish code ah wow that's a lot of work if you're enjoying these videos subscribe to the channel hit the like button but most importantly comment on the videos by all means or a suggestion of video you'd like to see let us know we'd love to be in touch we're at the final phase now last day of taping if you have issues that haven't been corrected fast enough and you need an extra day don't try to do the last coat until you're absolutely ready it will drive you nuts and you'll end up wasting time going backwards so save your final coat until your wall is ready for it what I want to show you is a little bit of science of what we're doing here here's a straight wall nobody would look at that wall and say ooh there's a bulge in it right but when I put my level up against it it's got some comings and goings little shadows an eighth of an inch here an eighth of an inch there that's because we're building with wood folks now here is my butt joint okay hate the vanish there but it is a little bit more movement alright so just that little bit the fact that it opens up to about a quarter of an inch if I push it hard on one side or the other this is why we have to make it nice and wide when you look at a wall you can only focus in about a three to four foot diameter if your bump goes from zero to the height of the bump back to zero again you'll notice that Ridge because you are able to focus on that Ridge inside that area if I stretch that same depth over a larger area now you can't focus on the change because you have to look left and then right to see where it went from zero to ridge and back again so while we're doing is we're just stretching the light over a larger surface area for the same Ridge depth so that it's invisible to the eye it's still gonna be there it's still gonna be a bump you just won't be able to see it so here's how we do it we started off by putting mud down the middle right in getting our little ridges we took off the ridges and we stretched it out now we're going to stretch it out one more time okay over here and over here that's how wide we're gonna make our joint okay now we have plugs and everything in the middle there can be an irritation all we're gonna do is just put mud everywhere because it's final coat no we're gonna start where our tape joint is and using really good pressure we're gonna clean that mud off okay and now I'm gonna use a little bit outward pressure but not much pretty consistent and we're gonna just clean that off cuz that's been filled up and raised now we're gonna start over here we're gonna clean that off and you know side pressure you're gonna clean that off so now we come over here again we're gonna just clean it all off secret here is to make sure that you have nice clean mud okay no dirt enough you won't get any scratches then you won't have to come back and fill up anything when you're done okay so here we go just want to keep my hawk nice and clean I don't want to have the mud on the outside of it cuz it'll start to dry even while that's sitting here now I have got this string here hooked up this is the TV wall so we got a channel built up here where we can actually pull cables from the entertainment center to the TV that we mounted on the wall about now the reason we're gonna fill down here is so that the surface of the wall is the same all the way around these plugs when you're done and you go to put your cover plates on you don't want to have mud here here and here because then all the way you're all rocking all over the place and they will be obviously ugly take your knife fill up these gaps okay you really want to have that mud depth very consistent all around your plugs it's gonna be a little bit messy but that's what sanding is for start near the top really slow work that water through all right and then just kind of finish whipping it up okay okay back now I'm doing a finishing coat here and I noticed some dirt in my mud from when I was bent down by the floor so I had to change my butt I do not want to have junk in my bug when I'm doing my walls so the same thing we're gonna fill the wall up I'm just putting them out on so that I can take it off this is one of the benefits of using the hawk now I clean the middle put in that pressure just a little bit towards the outside the goal here is to make it nice and smooth now I got some more but now that I've taken it up I can stretch this joint out a little bit here we go so this is a really wide joint now if you're on a ladder you're getting up and down the ladder you're not gonna be able to do it very fast you may not be able to do this nice a job that's why having this bench is so handy highly recommend the rooms this is from gorilla that could cost me like $80 such a good investment good to go because it's final coat we're gonna take advantage of the fact that we're just going to have this thinner mud that we made for the final coat we're gonna apply it over our horizontal joint now this horizontal joint doesn't need anymore but it's already filled everything is fine okay what I am doing because I'm making sure that this whole wall surface is nice and smooth and uniform so that when I'm sanding I'm getting an amazing result so we'll come back into this corner all right now we're gonna go with some pretty significant pressure we put it on we're just taking it off and we're going with a lot of pressure on the drywall side you can see how large of an area is kind of foggy right that's very very thin mud all right no one that's dry you'll be able to sand that just by passing the block and it's done you don't have to fight with it you don't need a huge dust cloud you don't have to here okay I have seen people standing drywall they should be wearing a hazmat suit this is a toxic material and the last thing you want to do is create a lot of dust so by all means take your time and stretch it tight now we're gonna finish towards the finish again so we're gonna start here in the middle pushing hard all right here we go I see a scratch there so I'm gonna come through both and flatten that scratch it done past all I might finish well so at the end of every day make sure you wipe down your tools you don't want to leave mud sitting on them it'll just build up over time it'll really really affect the performance of your tools right now your mud is in your pail take that sponge we talked about earlier wipe around the pail and then put good little dribble of water in here here we go here's your lid that's all you need to know about taping a basement or any other part of your house if you like the information on here subscribe to the channel coming up soon we're gonna be showing you how to do the finish flooring the finish carpentry hanging doors how to sand this bad boy and how easy it is when you do the mud ray thanks for joining us if you're enjoying these videos please don't send us money but send us your love subscribe to the channel hit the like button but most importantly videos not about what you see in the videos but more than that I want you to leave a comment about what's going on in your life I personally take care of answer every one of the comments that come through the channel so if you have a question about your own home project by all means or suggestion video you'd like to see let us know we'd love to be in touch [Music] so yesterday we finished all of our sanding and priming in the great room here and I've seen this a lot so I want to discuss this but a lot of contractors I know they'll finish their sanding and priming and they'll earn a real big race to start getting paint on the wall there what this illusion of we have to start making it look like we're getting some progress and so they race in to paint the ceilings they get the first coat on the walls but they don't take attention to the detail of the condition of the surface that they're painting and the idea is we're gonna get to that later the approaches we're gonna make up damage later we're gonna have Nick's and scratches that need to get fixed up but what I want to talk about today is the importance of a good prime check and this is part of a process that once you have all your walls Prime and ready to go you have to take a look at all the imperfections that are there before you paint especially with the ceilings this is key you can see behind me we have huge windows here and behind that that's the West so that's what the sun's going down so at different times of the day you're gonna see different things going on with a shadowing and lighting in this room so it's very important that before you put paint on this ceiling it's got to be perfect remember the quality is in the details if I just go ahead and paint the ceiling today and then look for problems later on and touch it up I'm gonna have problems because I'm gonna have different levels of acrylic and paint color and all the additives that are in the paint will be different concentrations and it's gonna scream at you we've all seen the ceiling with the paint roller marks that's somebody who painted after the fact and did their touch-ups in the wrong order so what we're gonna do today is just show you how the process works and what you can expect to see when you're doing a prime check that's what I use is just a simple little trouble lights on a 20-foot cord oh yeah pay attention and take note here because what I am I'm about six feet away from that corner and traditionally your word see that you're gonna get from your builder your new home construction company or a renovator there's gonna be about six maybe eight feet if you can see it from six feet away it's a problem and that's what they'll address but what I'm saying is when I'm working I don't want to just say well it's good enough to pass warranty inspection I want to make sure that the product that I'm delivering is of the highest quality possible so when I come and take a look at this corner with the camera we don't really see anything there's nothing really wrong but if I was to bring the light up here and shine it this way you don't see anything but if I brought the light across the ceiling you got that huge gouge in that corner you got these huge gaps where the that are left after the sanding and that's not really a problem it doesn't mean that there was a lack of quality going on with the workmanship it just means that you need to take a few minutes identify these issues and go over and get these filled because if you paint before you do this like I said you're gonna have marks now in the corner away from the window you might never see it but I'm gonna take the time probably take about an hour to go through this room and I'm gonna buy my light across the surface of the ceiling and look for every possible imperfection that I can find and once I've done that I can be confident knowing that this is gonna be the finest job that I can possibly produce there we go and that will help me to manage my clients expectations and not disappoint them like listen there's nothing worse than finishing a job having a client walk through and go oh I love it maybe it's February the sun goes down early in the day something in the evening they come through the inspect they're happy give it a couple more months when the when the Sun is really shining get it down here on 6:30 7 o'clock they're sitting down enjoying TV they look up and they see all these imperfections the phone rings my basement looks like junk this time of day come back and fix it that's a huge problem at that point your flooring is in the furnitures in there living in the space they're disappointed you can avoid all of that by taking an hour going through and doing a prime check to make sure that before you finish it's ready to be we were just talking earlier about doing a really good prime check and so I'm going to show you now a lot of the types of imperfections that you're going to find what you're looking for so when you're passing your light over your wall you have an idea what to you expect so first of all the screw holes you'll notice that when you're doing your taping job the screw holes a lot of cases you see that there's an indent this one probably only got two coats instead of three and so really simple we take our our mud and we just fill it up and pull it tight at this point that makes them look like a really big hole but that's not that much of an indent and so we're gonna pull it tight so even if you forget to sand it you can paint over top of that without any problem the other thing you're gonna find are scratches and Nick's like when we're sanding we're going over the surface to change the texture of the drywall we're not trying to sand it down until it's perfectly smooth because that'll just expose the tape and remove all the hard work you did getting there so you can take the back of the knife to get rid of bumps you can see here we've got some imperfections just take care of those real quick these scratches they fill up nice and simple and now it's a nice smooth wall the other thing you're gonna see is just damage to the drywall okay if the hole is really deep don't pull it tight just put a dollop on it so you have something to sand back when you're sanding then you can sand back to a flush surface the other thing down here you can see we have some screw holes that have got a raised surface on the drywall that's incredible so what you do is you take the middle in the back your knife crate a dent that gives you something you can fill in you're at it from two different directions and then just like the other part leave a little bit extra on the wall something you can sand off by the time you're done doing all of that you're gonna find that there's nothing really left for home with your wall the other thing you want to take a look at is your corner so most of the problems are gonna have with the drywall is not on the main surface screw holes a couple pieces of damage but most of the issues are gonna be in the quarters in the edges so I'm gonna just take a good look done no there we go right there I don't know can you see that okay max all right so we're gonna just follow along that engine there's two things you can do here one is to fix all those little scratches and second is sometimes when you're sanding you do too much of a groove into the drywall and so here you just fill up that corner get nice and sharp and 90 degrees again a little bent there scratch there right and then when you're done come back in the other direction always free your tape towards your finish my don't finish is nice and smooth a lot of times in the corners because you're going different directions when you're doing your mud work they'll meet a little bit I love so you just throw a little much pull nice and tightly and it just gets rid of all those little Nick's and scratches that are there from the taping process you know sometimes when you're mudding you get a rough inside to things can cause that one is when you sanded there was too much dust left there when the priming went on or second when the knife was going along during the inside corner which you saw in a previous video if the mud wasn't perfectly dry it tears away a little bit so the way you fix that you want a little bit of mud you just hold it tight to the wall clean it and there we go and when we're done we'll pull out our hands-- and block we're using mud that's a little bit browner than the paint so it's easy to identify them after they're dry just goodbye give them a quick scuff you don't have to say in all the mud oh but you just want to make sure there's no ridges then you have to go back and prime it once again use the brush Prime the mud so now the whole surface is at the same stage of preparedness then you're ready to paint so the trickiest part - hiding imperfections or doing the prime check is actually bulkheads basements are brutal for this because in a lot of cases we don't have a full eight feet to begin with we've got ductwork we have to cover I'm just shy of six feet tall so I'm only a foot away from this bulkhead when I'm walking around I'm looking at everything and it doesn't take anything for me to see an imperfection because I'm so close but the reality is this as a contractor we're trying to take our level of care past what's expected of us so that when we're finished the product we don't disappoint the client and as a client you need to understand that warranty rules are still in effect if you can see an imperfection in the ceiling when you're standing a foot away that doesn't mean that that needs to be repaired it just means that this is drywall it's not a perfect world in a lot of cases you know people would stipple the ceilings or they would shoot the mud on and they would flatten it out and just do a knockdown texture those approaches hide all these imperfections but when you want a flat surface you're asking for something that's really difficult to deliver and so we're gonna do the best we can we're gonna try to go overboard and then we're also gonna try to use our technology and our brain so when we doing lighting we're using pot lighting here and that downward light keeps you from visibly being able to see the ceiling the same as an upward light does so we're not gonna use floor lamps underneath the bulkhead and we're also going to use a kind of paint that doesn't have any acrylic it's just what I call dead flat and what that does is is that I use a product from Glidden called ultra hide and it helps to really quiet down all the texture and adds a little bit of a grayness to it so there aren't as many shadows in the ceiling so what I can see now after I'm done painting I won't see later so if I can take great deal of care now preparing my surface and I use good lighting and I use good techniques and good paint products then at the end of the day we should have a result that is so spectacular if as a client you see one or two little imperfections in the entire job it's not going to weren't coming back in and redoing the whole surface and you should just be able to be happy for that I would think if you're enjoying these videos subscribe to the channel hit the like button but most importantly comment on the videos by all means or a suggestion of video you'd like to see let us know we'd love to be in touch [Music] well welcome back to our how to drywall series we're getting near the end we're at the how to do the sanding stage and you know a lot of people think why talk about how to sand you know we just sand and you makes a lot of myths nobody wants to do it but there are a few tips and tricks I'm gonna show you today that'll make your life a lot easier one thing you need to know in a basement whether it's in the wintertime or summertime your HVAC system is operating so we need to control the dust whether it has a fresh air intake on the furnace or it's high efficiency and it uses the cold air return the wall either way spreading this dust of the home is disastrous it's such a fine powder that even if only 10% of what you sand goes airborne it's gonna be all through the house and the entire house needs to be clean so the way that we accomplish this to create negative air make this room kind of like a vacuum is we have a family and exhaust ducting running out the window and what's happening is because it's sealed off the fresh air from out here is being pulled through this hole picking up the dust and getting sucked out through the fan this some guarantees that all the dust that's generated in this room is leaving the whole structure we're not just maintaining it or containing it in a room this is what we call negative air you can see how the flap through this plastic is pulled inside we have to have fresh air intake it also assists in the camera work max is going to come in and show you the system now but before we do that I guess we've got to get rid of this door we'll put that on again later all right so this fan is a three-speed fan and that's not really rocket science what we do is we cut up shut up the door with plastic and create this little area where we're pushing air out of the room faster than its coming in now it's simple to set up we don't have anything elaborate going on here we just have this ductwork kind of taped to the glass outside the window there's fresh air coming in the room but we're pushing out more square feet then this window can bring back in so the way we'd test to see if we have negative air pressure is really simple we simply cut a happy face smile on the plastic door and if it's not flapping in and sucking into the room we just turn the fan up to the next feed mission accomplished so that's all we have to do in this case keep a small hole keep the fan speed down this allows us to work in fresh air and have all of the dusts out of the building nice and simple it's a first step before you start sanding you want to contain the dust in your environment I think one of the reasons there's no sanding videos on the Internet is because people don't want to get their camera equipment keep this disgustingly dirty so we're gonna show you real quick what we've got is a plastic wall containing the room and we have our exhaust fan and our ductwork going out the window now these types of fans are available for rent that they're building store the ducting was a little harder to find you got to go basically to like a fire restoration supplier but I use this on a regular basis on my job site so if your contractor I highly recommend this your fans are gonna need some maintenance on a regular basis to clean their the fins off but the ductwork you buy one box at the last about a year and it's just what you do is create negative pressure in this room so I'm forcing air out the window and I'm gonna draw all the air that's clean from the house into my work space and that negative pressure was like a vacuum it collects the dust and shoots it out of the room so I don't even even need a mask okay so I thought I'd go through a couple of details before we turn the fan on it's a little loud so when it comes to sanding you really only need two primary tools one is a sanding block I like to use the angled brush because I like to use the angle sponge because this corner here is fabulous for going into the corners if it's all square you don't find yourself putting grooves in the opposite side of the mud so you could do this if this is a small space you're doing you could probably use one of these sponges it'll do a bathroom all by itself no need for anything else small space you know six or seven bucks in and done but if you're doing a large space like a basement or a bedroom you're gonna need something bigger and we've all seen the sanding poles those rectangular heads are difficult and they tend to flip over all the time and it takes a little bit of getting used to to be really good at it the last thing you want when you're sanding is to have the head flip over put a huge chunk in your wall and then right back to mudding again so I recommend the radius 360 system these are awesome they have the taxable heads so you can change it out and put a smaller triangle pad on here but these things are wonderful it's just a Velcro system has a pad when you're getting a little bit worn you can throw it away stick a new one on they're good to go 150 grit on that paper I think you get them on 120 as well I like the 150 for sanding my mud you can use this 120 for sanding between coats on your paint that's just a free tip for you so before we get started again if you don't have a negative air system use a mask okay this stuff can be pretty dangerous especially you're exposed to it over a lot of time but for me I don't care I'm going negative air I'm gonna demonstrate what you have to do so let's get the fan on you'll notice in our taping video when we're doing our mud joint we're not trying to put it on real thick and then sand a whole lot off we're trying to feather it out we add water to our mud to thin it down so we don't have a whole lot of sanding to do so really all we got to do is get our pad on there and we're not trying to remove all of the mud we're just trying to remove the ridge you see just a little bit of dust just a couple of passes and you'll see that it's feathered in kind of like a room of summer days there's just a little bit of cloud in the air there's no distinctive Ridge here and that's really the look we're going for once the ridge is done we do the other Ridge you can see how easy this is to run around and won't flip over on you now I'm happy with that so all this left is the area in the middle we're not trying to remove the mud because we've already put it on really thin and really hard what we're trying to do is change the texture of the mud so that it's the same as the wallboard okay this is the key if you don't change the texture when you paint you'll see the difference in texture and to be obvious well we're gonna do just a little bit of a light sand over the board that's it now when you're done you can't visually inspect your mud use your hand if this all feels the same you're good if you see feel any rough spots oh that's where you're gonna know give a little bit more of attention so that's the basic gist to how to use the radius 360 some things you have to use the sponge board it's especially corners so before you do your corners you're gonna find that when you're taping you're gonna have little chunks here and there just go around clean out your corners make sure that all the ridges and little bits of mud or knocked off your wall here's your four inch knife for that you don't want to have your sponge going into big chunks of mud because it will take the corners out and it'll make it expire prematurely so what we're gonna do is we're going to do the same thing here we're going to spread the rosy edge okay putting pressure on the insides so we're not dousing here and then I'm gonna clean the corner by opening this place five degrees okay I don't want to go like this because it that big 10 inch piece of sponge if I run it down in the corner it's gonna groove it all out and it look for awhile so if you just want to live it a contact in the corner again just changing the texture don'ts and all of the dents out go back with your prime tech and fill the dents in that's the key to sanding less is more get rid of the ridges and then walk away resist the temptation to sanded saying and saying until I really is smooth because it won't be smooth it'll just look smooth they'll spend all day in this room instead of 30 or 40 minutes that this room would take to the other corner again five degrees just a little bit better in the edge and then just hit all of your screw hole make sure that you don't leave any ridges because when you paint that it will be noticeable and there we go now double-check make sure your edges are good that is all you need to know when it comes to Santa now in here we have some imperfections but again the ridges are gone when I come back after priming we'll fill that in with them but in our prime check then this will be perfect the only other thing you need to know is when you're going around light switches and boxes and plugs trying to be careful you don't go like this over and over and over and over again get rid of that Ridge and then this way because what you're gonna do is pray scratch lines that'll never go away okay go on an angle 45 degrees off the corner and you will not have the scratch lines then you can just give it a bit of a touch-up in the middle if you need it perfect every time that's all you need to know the only other thing we need to know actually is when you're done sanding is how to clean up here in a small room you can lay down a sheet of plastic most of the dust will land on the plastic you gently pull the corners together throw it in a garbage bag when you're done I like to use sweeping compound this stuff is brilliant it's been designed and used in industry for a lot of years you can just eat the dust up okay look at that that's how I clean up my sanding dust you can grab your dustpan and throw that in a bag and your mess is all taken care of if you're enjoying these videos subscribe to the channel hit the like button but most importantly comment on the videos by all means or a suggestion of video you'd like to see let us know we'd love to be in touch so now you can see we got a room sanded we've got our our dust free system has been removed we don't need that here anymore it's all been cleaned up so now we're gonna just prime this and the idea of priming drywall is you need to use the right paint it has to be a primer sealer you can't just use anything and you apply the primer sealer with a little bit of pressure when we were painting ceilings we want to a nice and gentle but we're painting primer we want to push the paint right through the paper to get it the good bond that helps it to seal up so that when we're doing our finished coats it's not sucking all of that paint into the drywall and so basically what you're doing is we want to paint about an inch and a half away from the surface of the wall we want to start with the ceiling give it a nice liberal coat push it in this is not about having a thick coat the primers got a lot of solids in it so a good primer is not wet okay so if you bought a primer that sweat is dripping all over you take it back you want to catch something that's nice and thick got a lot of solids in it and at this point in the production you don't need to worry too much about your ridges that drywall is gonna suck up any paint that hits it and you cannot get a paint Ridge if you do it doesn't matter because you're gonna be sanding again any way in between your coats so this is not the time to worry about that this is the time to use some pressure all right when you're all done with the rolling and you don't need to get an even coat here as it dries it'll be uneven so don't worry about that what your ceiling is done you can turn around and hit your wall same thing leave room from the edges cuz when we're all done with the rolling we're gonna take our paint brush out and we're gonna come around and we're gonna cut all of the joints and that's all you need to know about priming getaway cover 100% don't cheat leave the edges let's see a lot of guys do this they'll prime the drywall and they won't paint and brush right in the corners if you do that when you're doing your finished coats you're gonna have a little shadow there so don't cheat get it all covered get it off sealed and then you're gonna have a lot of success with your finish coat so we're finally at that point in the project where things are gonna start happening really quickly it's time to paint we've done our sanding or priming or prime check now what we have to do is start working our way down from the top to the bottom of the roof so we're going to start off with our ceilings very important so many people do this wrong and there's a lot to know how to do a ceiling right so I'm going to go through all the steps with you first of all of course is you have to go double check your prime check take your sanding block find those pots for you touched up earlier give them a quick little buffs eliminate any other extra mud change the texture of anything that you really had to lay in like their quarters again open your sponge 5 degrees just make sure I'm here worried about a wall I'm going to teach you how to paint a ceiling but get all of these areas here back up the perfect is best chicken now we're good to go Wow okay so our spots are all taken care of now it's time to sand the ceiling so once you've taken care of all your inside quarters very important a lot of people miss this stage but you need to sand between every layer of paints a lot of times in the paint they'll be dirt in the air that clings to the paint or little dried chunks from the pail from the process you always want to stay in first a nice smooth finish so what we do again let's take our little radius 360 sander here just a quick pass you're not trying to change anything in the ceiling or sand out any spots so you are making sure that your ceiling is nice and clean so once your area is clean now it's time to talk about your tools what I use is a roller cage on ball bearing this is really nice it does a great job I like to use microfiber call me crazy but I'll spend six or seven bucks on a good roller any day of the week if it's gonna get me the result that I want this is a 13 mil depending on the area that you're painting you might go with a little larger but I find that with ceilings you don't want to have too much of a nap because end up believing roller marks so very key know your paint this is from Dulux it's a Glidden product called ultra hide it's brilliant paint there's zero acrylic in this awesome for ceilings doesn't leave any shine who doesn't draw attention to any imperfections that we may have missed during our parameter so what I do is when I buy this I have it shaken at the store it's been sitting here a couple of days now we've got to make sure that it's shook up just roll it on its side give it a good bit of a beating make sure that it's mixed thoroughly through after about 10 or 15 minutes of this you've done about ten minutes too much now this lid can come off if you can cut the ends peel the strip and pull the whole pail open I recommend not doing that because the more air that gets in here the more dried to accept ain't you're gonna have if you're gonna use all five gallons in the same day then by all means what I usually like to just pull the top off pour it into my tray with my liner here we go that's about three quarters of a gallon when you're done pouring it out clean off the lid put the stopper back in okay that'll help preserve your paint now you're going to want to do two coats but before you do your coats you want to do your cutting the way you cut if you fill the brush with paint by pushing it into the paint filling the inside clean this off so there's no paint sitting on the other side the brush it's all inside the brush always paint from the inside okay so we're doing ceilings so we're gonna push it into the corner I'm not gonna worry about getting a little bit of paint on the wall as long as we don't have a ridge or too much excess there we're fine and what I'm doing is just trying to make sure that when I rule I don't have to get the roller right up against the wall we don't want to risk marking up our wall surface with the roller and there we go [Music] you can see that even though that paintbrush I nobody paint on the outside really covers a large area brilliant [Music] next we're gonna take our stick now these are designed to go together this is a Sherlock system it's got a little lock-on pin on it so that your cage doesn't undone twist on your handle so it gives you a lot of control the old kind is twist in like a broomstick you're rolling up and down a wall or something they'll start to untwist on you you'll lose a lot of control this gives you great control you want to extend the stick as far as you can go and you want to load this roller up usually takes about 15 or 20 passes really get it going okay now this is where you have to stop and think my windows are over here light is coming across this way so my second coat I want to be rolling in the same direction as the Sun in case I leave any ridges in my paint you don't want it to create a shadow okay and when you paint with two coats of sealing paint you'll go the first coat opposite of the finish coat so if my finished coat is gonna go this way my first coat has to come this way so we're gonna do is we're gonna just put it on we're not gonna worry about trying to stretch it out too much as much as we want to be concerned with not pushing too tightly up against the ceiling you want to roll gently okay you don't want to see the NAP of that roller and start to get all compressed because that's when the edges start to flare out and you get these big lines now you'll notice that while I'm painting I'm trying my best to keep my hands beneath my heart this is a long day at the office if I'm holding my stick up here I got make my body work a lot harder to pump all that blood up to my arms what's the old rule if you have a sore leg or something you elevate it you want to get the blood out of it well if my arms are above my heart I'm not gonna have any blood on my arms I'm gonna tire out way too quick so this is just a little trick so you can make your day a little bit easier try to keep your hands as low as possible on your stick there we go nice and gentle again we're not looking for a lot of square footage here we're just looking for an easy coverage there we are very nice now you notice this is not a pure white the client is asked for a Benjamin Moore color and I'm more than happy to oblige there we go so there's our first coat on the ceiling now all we do is do the same thing over and over and over and over and over again till the whole ceiling is finished wait about 20 minutes or so and then about the time I finished painting this room I can come back into the second coat right away so when you're painting your ceilings in the basement you're gonna have bulkheads you have two options you can paint the bulkhead the same color as the ceiling and same texture or you can make an accent stripe that's becoming a little bit past say most people want to have anything from the ceiling and the bulkhead up all painted the ceiling but the rules are the same you can't cheat you can't just bring the roller here and slap a lot of paint around you got a cut and roll so the way your cut is it fill the brush with paint on the inside set your corner and you just run it across like this okay this is how you would cut if you're using a color up against a finished ceiling to here we don't have to worry about it because we're also gonna be cutting in the ceiling right there we go and the idea of this is we want to put enough paint on this surface that we get the color but we don't have streaks use too much paint with your brush you'll have streaks and that'll be there forever and it won't blend with your finish rule okay all right when it's time to paint your bulkheads if your roller is full of paint like this you're gonna have ten times the amount of paint that you need okay so what I would suggest is roll out a piece of the ceiling dry off your roller a little bit then you come back all right cage down so you don't hit your ceiling and then gently not too much strength here gently roll that out and then when you're done come back down and just hit your edge to make sure you don't have any drips after you're done that all you need to do is let it dry usually a couple hours is plenty give it a quick lights and again same process different direction now you can paint like a pro well here we are we've finally finished our series on all things related to drywall so glad you could join us and for all of you who've endured all of these tapes and you're sitting here right now still watching we just wanted to once again encourage you to please subscribe to the channel we've got some awesome things in the mix coming up soon we're gonna be doing some more flooring some laminate some custom bar work we've also got more plumbing videos and more general how-to and I'm really looking forward to a new deck project we're gonna do a screened-in porch this spring so you might not see that until the fall but that's alright once again thank you so much for watching like and feel free to leave comments I'd love to get your questions about your how-to projects at your place I answered these things personally and believe me it takes some time but I'm happy to do it I want to hear what you have to say so looking forward to seeing again next time if you're enjoying these videos subscribe to the channel hit the like button but most importantly comment on their videos by all means or a suggestion of video you'd like to see let us know we'd love to be in touch

Channel: Home RenoVision DIY

Views: 4,566,672

Rating: 4.7923779 out of 5

Keywords: drywall, install drywall, drywall guide, drywall installation, how to drywall, dry walls installation, dry wall, diy drywall, how to do drywall, drywall 101, how to do drywall in basement, diy drywall installation, how to drywall a basement, drywall diy, how to install drywall in basement, drywall installation guide, diy drywall installation video, diy drywall installation guide a-z diy, how to drywall a room, drywall diy video, drywall 101 youtube

Id: W-p7pvnMAq8

Length: 134min 25sec (8065 seconds)

Published: Sun Sep 17 2017