Finished Trim Doors Windows and Baseboards | A to Z

hi i'm jeff thurman from home renovation diy and today's video is kind of special it is an a to z all things carpentry we are going to be covering filler strips toe kicks how to trim out old windows and make custom sills we're going to talking about baseboards in quarter round and shoe mold and door casings we're going to be talking about how to build your own island and and finish it off with a really custom wood on the back side it's going to be absolutely gorgeous barn board we're going to show you how to do crown molding and build everything custom that you need to make your renovation an absolute success so stay with us get comfortable we got a lot of information to get through because listen here at our channel we're here to help so we're going to help you become the best carpenter you can be with some of the simplest tools today we are talking about finishing trim work now we are going to be doing this whole series on diy finish carpentry because here on this channel we've done a lot of different things we've shown you how to paint how to drywall how to do flooring all just about everything but when it comes to the finished carpentry we realize that we've come a little bit short on giving you a broad scope of knowledge so that you can do all your finished carpentry and have it look perfect every time i'm going to share with you a great diy homeowner secret a nice process so that you can get a great finish and you're not going to go doing a lot of rework and touch-ups and making messes as you go so today is going to be a process we're going to be doing baseboards we're going to be doing door and window casings so let's get right into this we're going to talk about the product first you have basically two choices when you're going to be buying shrimp for your house and that is the medium density fiber or you can get solid wood now medium density fiber used to have a benefit because it was cheaper but now it seems to be running about the same kind of cost so what i'm going to do is i'm going to suggest that if you're going to buy trim go get wood and if you want a shopping secret don't buy it at the box store the markup is ridiculous go online and find a local trim supplier in the area uh you can just google trim carpentry supplier in ottawa we have a company that's just across the street i first found them because they opened up literally across the street from a home depot and i saw the truck from malaysian alexandria moldings alexandria molding say i saw that truck roll into home depot one day and i went shopping and then after i saw it roll across the street to this other store i had no idea who they were so i popped in to say hi turns out they sell their trim to anybody and you didn't have to be part of their exclusive club it was also half the price right that's crazy so i started buying really high quality three-quarter inch trim right that was cheaper than the economy trim at the home depot just saying shouldn't be a big surprise for home depot to be handling trim it's real labor expensive i mean like they put it on this huge skid they have to roll this cart through and they got guys standing there loading a few pieces of every kind of trim it's ridiculous when you go to this store they bring it the truck drops it and they just roll it right into the bay it's more of a warehouse effect where home depot is more of a retail look i know they're supposed to act like a warehouse but they don't operate like a warehouse and it makes it very very expensive so find yourself a good deal on your trim buy the highest quality that you can find because one of the measures when people are looking at your house if you're going to sell is the trim work all right if you have the same cheap economy trim as everyone else it always looks flat and boring and it doesn't give you the options for making that pop on the wall when you use something like this as a baseboard and it's three quarter inch thick that means the casings are also three quarter inch thick there's there's there's like a 3d look right it pops off the wall and you get nice shadowing effect anyway worth the investment so let's talk about what my program is so there are different processes for installing and finishing off your trim depending on what kind of situation you're in if you're in an existing space and you want to change out old baseboards and casings and put new ones in then i'm going to suggest that you follow this process if you're in a new home construction environment where you're doing a brand new remodel and you have access to a paint sprayer then i'm going to suggest you just install all the trim and then tape off your windows and use the paint sprayer to spray all your trim in place then you can cut and roll all your walls but what i'm doing is i'm going to follow a simple program for people who don't have those high quality tools okay because this is very helpful what we're going to do is actually paint all of our trim in advance and then i'm going to show you how to install it so that there's very minimal touch-up work after the fact because if you can paint all your trim first and then put it in place you're going to save yourself a lot of crawling around and bending over and it just makes the whole process a lot easier to deal with so if i paint it first i can put it in place do some caulking i'm gonna have a few nail holes to touch up then it's just really quick and done nice and easy so i have got a nice baseboard it's a i think they call it the hopper series i don't know if it's available where you are but it's very cool we also have some really thick casing now this is a three quarter inch profile as well and it is really wide it's three and three quarter inch and i'm going to use this around my windows on a tile wall to give it a real dramatic flare also got some nice 1x5 flat stock this is very cool it comes with a little bit of a rounded edge here so this makes a really nice detail when you are running your casing up against it and we're going to combine that for our window jams and then we're going to add this as a window sill bam all right so we're gonna stick all that together to make our windows and this will give us a nice little build out and extend our window jam into more of a ledge so that it functions you can put your herb pots and stuff like that in the window in the kitchen and then around our doors we're doing the same quarter but it's only two and a half same series and this is because we don't want to have all of the doors of that huge trim it takes away from the effect of the window and also makes it more convenient because we're gonna have light switches around the room so door jambs on the interior that are too wide you really need to plan in advance to move your light switches over and we didn't do that we went more of a standard install so this is for that what we're going to do is i'm just going to pull out my roller and i'm just using my mini roller today yeah i'm going to use a mini roller we're going to roll the trim set it aside to dry once you roll the trim it usually is about 20 to 30 minutes and then it's ready to start cutting and installing so we're just going to take a few minutes and get all this process done i'm going to wear some gloves there's not really a whole lot to this except because of the detail i'm going to roll it on a little thick and then i'm going to drag my brush through it to make sure we don't have drips laying in all the edges that'll keep the detail sharp and then that's it one of the downfalls of buying a gallon of trim paint is if it sits around for a few weeks it separates and i don't have a personal paint shaker sitting around at home so this is basically all i can do hey yeah i just hate sitting there with a stir stick making a mess of everything there we go done okay [Music] i'm gonna try to not get covered in paint today and use a couple of gloves learn from experience that when you're painting the trim although you're only painting the top surface you always get a little drip line around the edge because the profile is so sharp and then when you pick it up to set it aside to dry it always gets all over your hands and i am just uh loving the idea of keeping my hands clean so instead of painting one board at a time i'm just going to paint a whole section at a time [Music] once this roller fills up with paint a little bit it'll work a lot nicer now i'm more concerned about these thick sections this joint here this is the part of the trim that actually sits up against the flooring that's the one that i don't want to ever have touch paint again all right so that's the one that i want to put a nice thick coat on because i'm only ever planning on putting one coat of paint there the top part of the trim i'm not too concerned about how perfect that detail is because that's where i'm going to be putting in some nails and that's also going to be where the caulking goes and i'm going to need to run the brush again on that later to get a really nice cut line so just making sure that that thick section of the trim is done gives me an advantage just run that through the detail so we don't get drips now this is not as fast as spraying the trim once it's in place but it's a lot faster than just putting it on the wall and then crawling around brushing afterwards and because we're getting a nice right against that edge that goes on the floor i'm never going to have to run my brush right up along that edge and try to cut it afterwards and that will save me from having a lot of ugly mistakes later all right so while our trim is drying we need a few more minutes before it's good we're going to just we set up the bench to show you all the tools and stuff that we're going to be using in our carpenter video today and possibly what you might need to be shopping for yourself and we're going to go through how they all function so that when we're doing the application later on the wall it makes a lot more sense for you okay so first of all unless you literally want to install all your trim with a hammer and nails which is an option you're going to need to buy one of these bad boys now this husky compressor it's a pretty basic unit it is i use it for trim carpentry you can also use it for hardwood flooring but not for large spaces it doesn't hold enough pressure and power to do a hardwood floor job start to finish without you constantly waiting for it to pressurize again but for finished nailing it is brilliant it's on wheels and the front has rubber feet so this is designed to be used inside a finished house for doing repairs and not going to mark any floors or cause any scratches that's an important consideration i'm using a two inch brad nail system i'm using an 18 gauge nailer for our trim you could use a 16 gauge for some of this application because the wood is so thick but i found the versatility in 18 gauge if i'm going to recommend to homeowners get one tool get one eighteen gauge nailer you can get nails that are one inch to two inches long different variations that's best for you a two inch nail works really good for a three quarter inch wood plus the thickness of your drywall that still leaves you enough nail to get through the drywall and occasionally find some wood it's really effective when you're pinning things together so i can connect my joints using these nails and then i'm set to go you're also going to need some glue because all of your outside corners and miter joints should be glued it should be number one rule at doing finished carpentry glue your joints okay if you're not gluing your joints you're guaranteeing that those joints are going to crack and crack joints always look like garbage and means call backs and more more work in the future so avoid that and use the glue depending on your compressor and the tool that you buy you might need oil okay and the way that that works is you can just put it in the back of the gun this particular gun that i have here from dewalt doesn't require oil but let me just show you there's my gun there okay if this required oil it'll say so in the package and you just flip the nozzle up and you can throw a couple of drips in there do that every 30 minutes to an hour to avoid your gun jamming on you but like i said i paid a little extra for a gun that i don't need to do that for now that we're here we'll just talk about the gun so this gun is awesome it has depth setting dial on it okay so if the nails and the gun are sticking out in whatever wood you're working with you can adjust that if you're going to a soft wood from a hardwood you can back it out so that you're not driving the nail too deep it also has a nice little waist clip here so it can sit on the belt and any other considerations here oh yeah the little yellow rubber tip on the end there that's awesome because you have to compress the nailer in order to fire it all right and that little rubber tip down there keeps you from marking the wood when you're putting your pressure on other than that here let me get rid of that case the functionality is simple it has a release all right and your nails can just be loaded in off the side knowing how to function that is really handy the compressor hose that ties all this together i always go out and i buy one of these 25 foot rubber ones because they don't kink okay and they always come back to normal you're going to find that if you buy a cheaper plastic hose it'll just be a mess and you spend your whole day trying to undo the kinks in the hose you just pull down this click lock system okay you're good to go when you're all done you can just pull down and release the tool and of course if you're going to be using air tools i know but this is one time it's important the brad nail is a very unique tool because it's firing a nail under an incredible amount of velocity and sometimes when it hits an object or if you accidentally fire it'll deflect and so it's good to have these on uh they don't do a lot of damage if you're not really close to it like i can stand here and shoot max with the gun all day long and he's gonna get a few pin breaks but that'll be about it but it's good to wear the glasses this tool here i'm going to demonstrate later because we have an existing door that we pulled the trim off to start the renovation and there are brad nails left in the jamb and so this is a great tool i use this to pinch my heads and then i rock to pull the nails out you'll see that demonstrated later that's worth gold but have drill construction screws we're going to be building our own window sill because the depth is so thick i couldn't just buy a stock window sill so what we're going to do is we're going to glue the sill to the jamb then we're going to add construction screws so always good to have that handy gives you lots of options now once we've got all the trim on the wall we have to patch our holes and so hawk four inch knife and you guessed it i love my sheetrock 45 this is a perfect application for this you can mix that pretty silky smooth and then you can just use your thumb and press it into all the holes because a good carpenter will always fill their own nail holes all right if you're on a job somewhere and the carpentry installed all of his trim and he didn't finish his nails he did not finish his job shout out to all the guys who are cutting corners out there if you're going to nail something on the wall and you're not going to finish your hole you don't deserve to get paid go fill your holes it's not the painter's job to clean up after your mess now you're going to get some hate for that one but that's all right the other thing you're going to need is some caulking so that you can do all your joints from your one surface to the wall and even your inside joints nice to clean it up with a little bit of finished caulking this particular product is necessary okay this product is called windows and doors okay don't use the general purpose caulking now here's the deal about caulking and i'm going to get into this a little bit because the quality of your finish depends on the quality of the products you're using if you use the general purpose caulking yes it dries quick it's like 20 minutes but it does not have any elastomeric property whatsoever and during any expansion contraction cycle it's gonna crack all right so don't use that junk use this yes it takes about two hours to actually set up properly before you paint but it's worth the investment and if you're doing any kind of trim work trust me you've got the time to let this dry put your stuff on the wall do the caulking first before you fill your nail holes and by the time you're done filling your nail holes with your sheetrock 45 you'll be able to sand all your nail holes because it'll be dry really quick and then by the time you're all done that this will be ready for you to paint okay so don't get your knickers in a knot feel free to use a quality product even if it takes longer to dry and if you're in a real big hurry you can buy a quick dry product that is elastomeric it's a little more expensive and it's difficult to work with but it's an option latex acrylic caulking you just snip the tip and then you're good to go you don't have to puncture a hole so don't waste your time and you can make this really tiny so when you're doing finishing work if the wood is nice and tight to your wall you don't need a lot of bead okay because the expansion rate is like two to three hundred percent so you can actually get away with a real thin bead it doesn't have to be obnoxious all right so cut your hole small and then when you're done you can put tape on it and it'll be ready to use the next time because you're using 45 minute mud you're going to need a little sanding sponge so you can take off your rough edges and of course i know it's not part of finished carpentry as far as a trade is concerned but since i'm talking to you the homeowner you guys are going to want to know how to finish the entire project here's my tips here have a little kills all right when you're going through your wood and you're ready to paint it if you see any of that finger joint section of the of the primed wood that's a little yellow hit it with the oil based primer first set it aside until it's dry before you paint it all right always good to have a couple of rags because if you're dirty then everything you touch is going to get dirty uh just good to have that going on get a nice three inch brush a stiff brush is best no that's not a joke a stiff brush for trim work is better than the regular purpose one used for a wall but if you are good enough to get away with it one brush does everything it's generally recommended to use a stiff bristle brush for doing trim because most paint will when you paint it will drag on the trim and leave lines but if you're using a good quality acrylic paint okay then you want to paint from the top down always dragging in the direction of gravity and you'll be fine if you're using oil start from the bottom and paint up that's the simple rule and that'll help you out because your trim paint is going to come in either a small court and you can't get a brush in it or it's going to come in a gallon it's too much paint to work with having a handy pail now makes perfect sense because you can add just a little bit of paint and you can put your brush on that magnet and it'll keep it out of the paint so it's not soaking up into the bristles while you're working okay the only other thing i think i wanted to mention was the option some nitrile gloves right when you're working with all your finished trim wear the gloves usually when you're in a finished trim if you're renovating your own house you could be in a finished space if you're going to get paint all over yourself get it on the gloves you can take the gloves off when you're done and you're not going to make a mess somewhere by accident finally my laser level i know i'm going to mention this one more time we're going to be building window jams now our windows are in level but in order to put the jams in we're going to build it all first and then set it in place i like to just throw this up to have a laser line where i want it finished so that i have a reference point so when i'm nailing and shimming it makes my life simple i don't have to constantly grabbing levels and checking out all the surfaces for plum and flush drop one laser line on the side of the window where the jam goes and you can get that installed real easy you're going to see all of this in the video now let's get into installing this stuff because now the trim is dry we're good to go all right so if you're a homeowner and you're looking for tool investment understand that setting up your finished carpentry can be expensive but it doesn't have to be the compressor nailer that i use you can usually get in a combination for around two hundred dollars this saw right here i think it also is about two to two fifty that's in canadian dollar so i know you can get a better deal this is just a basic 10 inch compound miter saw it does not have a slide it's not a 12 inch blade everything i cut i've got to loosen up my wheel and tilt over and cut my miters on that angle the beautiful thing about this is it's set at 45 degrees as a default so it makes my life simple when i want to cut shrimp now because my baseboards are so tall i've got to lay them flat and cut my miters on the side we'll show you how to do that in a minute the only other thing you need to know about this is it has a release mechanism underneath here so that i can move my table and i have my gauges for my angles here for today's video we are going to oversimplify everything and only cut 45 degree angles that means when you add 245s together it makes 90 degrees so that's all of your miter cuts around the doors it's also all of the inside and outside corners on every wall if the walls are not perfect 90s as a homeowner doing finishing trim i'm going to show you secrets and tips that you can use to keep your saw skills to a minimum and then you do the install it's still going to look perfect okay so bear with me let's get into this first thing we got to do is start measuring so i've got my tape measure and my pencil pretty pretty pretty i'm going to be handing these out we're going to be going on our tour in just a few weeks so make sure you check out our web page look at the event schedule all right check out to see when we're going to be in an area near you and click on an event that you want to get to and fill all that information out we look forward to seeing you live in your city soon so my process for doing finished trim in a room is first you want to do all your door casing then you want to do your baseboards and then window casing the windows you can do in any order but you can't put your baseboards in until your door casings are on that's kind of a given so like i mentioned before this is an a previous door and i'm i had a casing installed using the two inch nails that we're going to be using and just throw that over there and these pliers are amazing because you can remove the nail without just pinching off the modern head of pressure just to hold it snug and it'll release and you can just roll it off now the design on this pair of pliers here for nail removal is that even up against soft wood lumber if you make a mistake you don't have your air pressure set right and your nail doesn't drive all the way in you can sit this on your soft pine pull your nails with that rocking motion okay and it's not going to dent the wood so this is why i love having these in my toolbox they are a lifesaver whenever you make a mistake and you will we all do that's normal all right there's a delicate balance there between cutting it and pulling it let me tell you whoops balance not achieved okay so i'm going to teach you my basic system for installing a door casing and that is this set your window trim in behind the hinge and you want to be consistent and the idea here is you put your pencil there and mark your trim all right you can see that okay there's your mark and then on the face of this draw a line somewhat of a 45 degree to that intersection point and make that real obvious that's all the information you need to go to the saw to cut but in this situation we're dealing with new construction we don't have flooring yet so you have two choices you can set it on the subfloor and then later you can take out a jam saw and cut the trims down or if you follow my advice and you have everything on site because you've done your shopping already you bring out the underpad and the flooring that you're going to be using and you lay it in place and you can set height of the finished floor in front of your door bam now you can put your casing right on that flooring what this will do is provide you the perfect gap for later when you go to install your floor you can slide it right underneath now when we're installing the floor in this room i'm actually starting on this door and heading in that direction so i don't have any concerns about doing this right now it's a great little cheat but look how much my cut line has changed it's almost 3 8 of an inch difference okay that's awesome and now i've also saved myself about 5 or 10 minutes per casing of fussing around with that little jam saw now the other side we're going to set that up as well there's my line i'm going to just trace that out on the trim put my mark boom now i'm going to go with the saw we're going to get those cut all right so just a quick note if you have any questions or comments about the tool selection we're using make sure you put in the comments section i do check these comments every morning and every night i may not have a chance to respond to all of them but i will read them all and if you are a member i guarantee to respond to your questions so feel free to ask as many as you like now let's go take a look at this here's our trim now the saw of course we're just going to set 45 degrees now you see these notches right these notches are predetermined places where this the saw will set up so there's one set at 45 and so you can be confident when you get there that it's the right angle now before you get started you want to get familiar with your saw you want to take a look at the material that you're cutting out where the blade is so the blade is actually going to finish here about an eighth of an inch from the yellow side so when i slide this over here i'm going to put my pencil line right on that mark and then i'm going to cut twice measure once and cut twice i know it's contrary to what most people do but watch what i do here you see i just started my line and now i know where that blade is going to go i can slide this into position [Music] perfect every time now for the other side of the casing and you know what just just for the heck of it if you find that it makes it easier for you so you're not confused when you're making your mark put a whole line on that okay you can draw the whole relative angle just so you know which way your saw blade needs to be set you don't ever get confused nothing worse than cutting something the wrong ankle and then is garbage because it's too short so we're gonna again we're gonna do a primary line and you can do this over and over and over again as many times as necessary and i use my thumb against the edge here and i can actually feed the trim without moving my arm so i'm never in any risk of cutting myself and you can see there's my cut right on that pencil marker perfect i was just taking a couple shots max here [Laughter] ah that's funny i was just reminding max of a story when i was working on a job we had a guy who did deliveries for us his name was bob and uh every time bob would show up the guys would all turn around with our guns and take the safety off we'd pull the pull the trigger back and then when bob would come up we'd all turn around and unload brat nails on not the most responsible thing to do but ma'am was it ever fun uh you'd see them we'd be 20 30 feet away and the nails would all come firing out they all turned sideways and they finished the rest of the trip sideways it was the weirdest thing every once in a while we'd poke a little hole in him but uh he was wearing glasses anyway the next step in putting in your trim uh don't put tight up against your hinges that's a mistake a lot of people make there's one stationary and one moving element of the hinge so if you're tight up against the hinge you're gonna get squeaks take it a sixteenth of an inch off just make sure there's no contact there all right and then about there throw that into the jamb now it's installed come down to the next one now wood is tricky because sometimes it can be curved right so you want to make sure you're on the hinge and then let it off a little bit fire that nail into the jamb behind it remember the jam material itself is 5 8 of an inch thick okay so it's thicker than this right the idea here is you're attaching this piece of wood to the door jamb not the wall or the wall framing at this point okay we get down here same thing push and then pull it off a little bit now the reason i'm always setting this pin above the hinge is i don't want this nail to hit one of the screws that the hinge is using if it does that it won't go all the way in and then you're going to have an ugly spot there trying to repair next to a hinge and you won't have access to it so i always shoot just a little bit above three nails is all you need now you can check your gaps here my wall is sort of straight but that's fine leave it alone for now because one side fixed now we come over here and we're going to set this on our mark that we wanted for that right remember i put a pencil line there i'm going to shoot about a foot and a half away and i'm only throwing in two nails this time and here's why when i'm cutting my top i'm going to be cutting the length from the two miters and i want this to have a little flexibility to move left or right to close the gaps and make it perfect okay so if you set your nails a little bit lower you'll have a little bit of flexibility we're talking a 16th of an inch but that little bit of flexibility makes the joint perfect so now what we do is we're going to measure from the outside to the outside okay and in this case it's 37 and a quarter that's perfect so let's go back to the saw and i'll show you how to set that piece take a scrap piece of your lumber material and when you take a measurement write it down the number one waste of time on a job site when you're doing finished carpentry is not writing down your numbers and i'll tell you why as soon as you do that you come over here oh you gotta adjust your saw the phone rings somebody calls somebody walks in the room asks you a question uh you just generally get distracted with whatever you forget your number now you're right back to measuring again don't waste your time always write it down and then i can keep that whole list going all day long no big deal 37 and a quarter is right here now on this tape it actually tells me if you're new to measuring you're going to want to get a tape that has these numbers now this is a dewalt tape measure 25 foot okay it actually tells you what inch and what every different measurement is on the tape it's a bit of a cheat but if you're new to this and you're not sure and you're communicating with other people knowing exactly what you're cutting is important now i'm going to make the mark a little bit bigger than 30 sorry 37 and a quarter wow one of those days already and i'll show you why first we're going to cut the right length okay now i'm already longer than i need to be this is 37 and 3 8 and a bit and here's why i would rather cut this a little bit too long all right and then come back here and take another blade another saw blade thickness off then try to make it perfect the first time and get this miter here wrong because what we're going to do is we're going to cut both miters now same thing set your saw blade make your first cut check to see how far you are from the corner slide it over check it again make minor adjust here we go now obviously this is taking a minute to walk you through the process but there is a perfect corner and the way you check is you look at the end and you see if there's any flat section and this one has just a little bit so we're going to take off another part of a blade and the way i do that is i slide the trim into the blade lift the blade and then i cut because when i went into the blade i pushed the blade a little bit so when i lift it up it kind of reset and it cut me just a hair the other side will cut the other way get locked on your 45 i can run my pencil off the edge so i have this little black line showing and then i'm going to just do this as a bit of a guide okay blade i already know this piece is going to be too long it's going to be 37 and 3 8 and it is because i cut it perfect so i'm going to actually just going to cut it down i'm going to cut it the right length just by setting the blade there sliding it over i'm going to cut a blade length off okay the point of measuring and cutting along on purpose is it's always easier to take a little bit off when you're done in case you make a mistake while you're cutting so now we're going to just put it in place and double check to see how it looks right okay so here we go that's the right spot i'm going to just open this side up just a touch so it's going to be fine remember our goal here is glue the joints nail the joints and then attach it to the wall to level everything off and i'll show you that process now all right so we're not needing a whole lot of this right boom just run a little bit of a bead there we go now okay i'm going to shoot a nail through the side of the first trim into the new trim and that'll bond all that together and i'm going to put on a slight angle towards the back so the nail doesn't come out through the face okay same over here there we go i like that okay now i have a bit of a curve in this wall you'll see that if i nail that one tight into the stud behind it it'll be perfect so i'm going to set the nail right in this groove not in the flat section all right that worked out well and over here yeah same thing okay and then just a couple into the jam boom perfect now all we got to do is throw a couple at the bottom make sure everything's nice and tight to the wall so these are going into the jam and go now all we have left is the side of the trim and if we can close that up that's great now behind the jam there's usually a small space and then there's wood but you don't want to nail through the face of the wood so always find this detail throw your nails there okay that makes it a lot easier to patch up and a lot harder to see after the fact we'll do that over here as well beautiful that's enough nails for now now we're going to go work on the baseboard all right so we're going to be measuring all of the baseboard i like to measure four or five 10 50 pieces at a time it doesn't really matter because this system allows you to measure and cut everything first and then assemble it and then install it but one thing about this wall is we're getting a tile and so i have to consider the thickness of this tile and the adhesive that goes behind it so i'm going to take a half an inch off of this measurement so that i can put the tile let's presume that that's my finished wood i can actually tile this wall and slide the tile in behind the wood i know that this tape is a little bit old but most tape measures come with the measurement on the back of the tape and that's the measurement from the heel to the front all right so when you're measuring you can actually measure a space this okay so that's my measurement my measurement is actually six feet plus the three and a quarter inches of the tape itself so it's six foot three and a quarter okay so in inches that ends up being 72 plus three and a quarter 75 and a quarter but we're going to take off a half an inch so my measurement is 74 and three quarters and this is where this gets interesting i have a system that i develop that i'm going to let you use and that's this since we're going to cut everything at 45 assuming the corners are 90s you have really only three marks here so this is the length of the board and that represents physically a board and on this side it's a straight cut on this side it's a straight cut it could be an outside or an inside corner and then just make all these marks so i'm going to run around the room take all my measurements and then mark this template here with whether it's an outside or an inside 45 cut that's all i need to know then i can go to the saw knock all those pieces off and then i can glue it all together nail it all together and then slide it in place so i'll show you how this works so here's how i do this take my measuring board and we'll call it that for now and this first piece has a straight cut and then an inside miter joint because the line will be like this that's an inside line so i mark inside joint the next piece on the left side is going to be an inside joint and over here it's going to be an outside miter all right and then after that the next piece is going to be this and then that so now all i do is measure the three pieces nice and simple again you can measure both directions you can just go like this read your tape now that says 20 and three quarters is tight 5 8 was actually going to be perfect because when you're measuring into a corner you want to go a little bit short on purpose it's easier to finish and fix all this with the caulking after the fact then to try to force it all in place and then you'll end up cracking your joint on your drywall so we'll go 20 and 5 8. okay and this one we're going to take the actual measurement 35 and a half because i want a 35 and a half to be coming out of that corner just a little bit i'm fine if it comes a little bit past that corner again i'm going to install the trim first lay it in position and then we can caulk the gaps so let's get that measurement one more time because i broke my own rule and i never wrote it down 35 and a half and then this wall we're going to cut 4 and 7 8 just a little bit more would make me feel better so if you want to get really specific and go 4 7 8 and you can actually put l for long and you can cut in between four and seven eighths and five inch that's what i'm going to do let's go to the saw so we'll start with the first cut is the simplest it's just a straight cut 74 and three quarters i'm going to measure that and put a mark right there okay now we also have a short one and whenever i have a shortened with inside note side corners that i'm going to be doing on the flat i like to cut them first because that way i can hold my wood in place far away from where the saw is going to be so 20 and 5 8 wow that is not gonna be big enough four and seven eighths yep so i've got one that's four and seven eighths here long right now if you were to look at this remember that's the end of the wall so this board is actually going to be like that and like that something along that line right so what we want to do is want to put this edge on first it doesn't have to be perfect we'll set this up make sure your trim is against your fence that holds it square to the blade start the blade and then once the machine is running then you can make your cut [Music] all right now if you want to have nice looking trim and you want to be safe use a really sharp blade the duller the blade the more likely you are to have an accent now we can take our measurement to four and seven eighths long right here we'd call that 15 16 but it doesn't actually get written on the tape that's why i came up with that other way of saying it all right now here's the thing the saw blade only rests on one side so when you want to cut the other angle going that way you actually have to move the trim around [Applause] extend that arm the reason i made the mark about an inch and a half off the edge here because on the thick piece of wood that's where the blade makes contact first all right so i can actually hold this board in place line that up and like i mentioned before we'll do a quick cut line to confirm and then we can make an adjustment if we need to [Applause] yeah i'm just not quite long enough there we go now that little bit of a nick there is not going to be an issue we can take care of that during our touch-up phase but that is how we set up that outside double outside corner now that's my first measurement for my other cut okay perfect take our notes scratch off those cuts are done next piece so now i'm going to do the 20 and five-eighths okay now my material is upside down so how you visualize this this side will be square and this side will have that inside corner first thing we have to do is square this off don't ever think or assume that because it comes from the supplier or the store even if it looks nice that it's square a lot of times they're running this board fast through the machines and it gets cut even on a one degree angle it'll wreck your day so always hold things nice to the fence and clean up your own edge [Music] [Applause] all right now we can measure from that 20 and oh hang on that's an inside corner whoops i got my own self spun around here when you're measuring an inside corner you measure the whole width of the board 20 and 5 8 right what we're going to do is we're going to cut that off first we'll put the measurement where the saw blade will make contact there we go all right [Applause] okay so now the board is the right length but we want to cut this up so we got two choices i can guess i can tilt my saw i can come over here and i can throw a cut line on it and throw a cut line on it throw a cut line on it go crazy or we can cheat and come at it from over here because i can set the blade off the back of that wood right there that's my spot and i can see that now you'll notice i'm not going to get all the way through because it makes contact yeah makes contact on both sides here's a little trick since we're holding the material up against the fence it holds it square i can cut and trim off the back side [Applause] [Music] perfect every time so now we got 35 and a half that's our last piece so let's get this up let's visualize 35 and a half so we're going to be coming out of the corner on on the 45 that way 35 and a half over here we're also going to be cutting that way seems awful tricky right well what you can do here's another trick you can add the thickness of the material which is three quarters you can add that to this measurement all right which ends up making it 36 and a quarter and here's why if we cut this at 36 and a quarter this is actually where the outside of that cut finishes up and this gives us flexibility okay that's also a cut all right you see where i'm going with this now i can lay my saw flat turn this around and i can cut that from here and i can line that up right to where my blade is touching the edge and finish my cut and then i'm going to switch sides again and remember i'm cutting this angle so i'm going to be cutting from here so what i can do is i can measure over three quarters of an inch remember when you're cutting on a 45 degree angle the dimension on this side of the line and this side of the line are exactly the same so that's just a little bit old grade 5 math that you can employ so you can make a mark here three quarters of an inch and your saw blade will make that contact first so what we do is set this back okay we're going to hold that in place now what i got to do is i got to cheat because i got to be able to look underneath all right get this out of my way [Applause] i am loving that and that is how you can make all these cuts in a variety of different ways the secret is measure it once and cut it twice or three times four times or whatever it takes but you can work back towards your lines so now i've got my inside corner so the outside corner is four and seven eighths long all right which basically means 15 16. but what we're going to do is we're going to call it five short it's easier much easier math and the way you want to do this on this saw is you add the thickness of the wood times two so three quarters gives you one and a half so we're actually going to cut six and a half short but we're going to try to do six and a half first because it's easy to shame off a little bit but that gives us a little flexibility so here we go right because we're doing outside corners let's start with the easy one we'll go over here and we'll just cut an edge [Applause] okay now we can measure back six and a half was it if you're ever not sure there we go that's why we always write things down it makes life so much easier this this cup would come from this side right so what we're going to do we're going to have to run a few times here because the measurement is based on the thick part of the dimension so i'm going to have to start a couple of sock cuts here and cut right through until i see where it comes in contact with that pencil and then we'll commit okay now it only takes a couple seconds to do that but then you get a perfect measurement there we go all right so before you assemble all these pieces just do a quick check make sure that it's all going to fit right that's a little bit tight down here on the bottom so i'm going to take just going to mark this cut that one a little shy okay that's a little bit too far off the edge so the easiest cut for me to make is on this side so i'm going to scribe here and you know what this is the time to do it if you run a bunch of measurements go to the saw and cut them and then come and double check and if things need a little bit modification that's fine because we're intentionally marking just a little bit long so we if we have problems with the saw or the cutting we can make those adjustments without throwing wood in the garbage this one is also just a little bit long but not really i'm going to leave that one alone one more trick just to before we assemble is if you're working on a whole room always start with your long walls if you do all your long walls first and you make a mistake on the trim you can use that piece of wood to cut smaller pieces out in the room if you start with the small intricate ones like i am and you make mistakes all you're doing is throwing out wood that has no other value so remember start big work to small and then when you get to these corners cut everything first double check the fit and then when you get the perfect fitting then we're going to assemble and install boom boom and boom this is where it gets interesting because in this old house this part of the floor actually caves down a little bit so you don't want to follow the contour now this is old home trimming techniques if you're in a new place and everything's flat and level great good for you you can just nail it in as you go but what i want to do is actually connect all these pieces with glue and nails first and then when i put it in i'm going to put it tight on the corners and the bottom in the back here is going to raise up and it's going to follow a level line so i can have nice joints and that is going to be the key to my success here we're just going to slide that glue around a little bit make a joint we're going to nail through the side into that other three quarter inch thick wood one up here [Music] beautiful okay softwood lumber is really predictable we're also going to do this corner same thing okay slide the glue around a little bit it's basically the same thing holding everything nice and tight fingers out of the way and visually this bar you know what straight the nail's going in straight line it up so you know it's not going to stick out just in case now we've got all three pieces together now watch what happens i put it in the corner okay so you'll see the trim over here there's a big gap at the bottom even when it's tight at the top and that's because that whole piece of trim over my elbow elbow side is down and it's causing that to open up see how that works so this is how i know that the floor is caving away so if i lift the other side and close that gap and then nail it then it's going to be nice and tight because the biggest enemy you have to install in your trim is uh contact later on if the trim isn't nice and snug to the wall you're gonna vacuum or sweep or the kids are playing around with the ball things are gonna get broken and chipped and knocked out of position so make sure there we go when you nail it everything stays nice and tight try your best to install your nails into the framing behind it and if you can put it in the contour the detail will work now this particular wall is actually full with heat runs so there's nothing to attach this to other than the drywall so i know that if i want to take a risk of puncturing that the grill right making all that noise we're going to leave that alone over here i'm going to bring that wood right down to where the casing is here we go that's installed now i know there's gonna be a lot of people saying oh why didn't you leave the gap all the way around for the flooring it's because the gap is going to be inconsistent so even if i raise it high enough for the flooring to go underneath i'm going to have the same problem of a huge gap in some places and not in others and so the way we handle that is with a small little piece of trim now there are a ton of different shoe modes on the market this one is designed to be added after the flooring goes in it is a half an inch deep so there's plenty of room for expansion contraction gaps no matter what kind of flooring you're using so i'm going to do the flooring first you have this pre-painted and i'm just going to add some no nails adhesive on the back i'll stick it in place and tell me how sexy that looks it's not quarter round it's not ugly so if you go to these specialty stores you can get quarter round or shoe mold trims like this that match the design profile and it looks amazing when it's all finished that gives you all the flexibility you need in older homes to be able to finish after the flooring and it's a quick little step to run around the room so once all your trim is installed then we pull out the caulking gun because we want to finish our job nice and we just want to get a little bit of a cut on an angle you can see there is not a lot of room for that caulking to come out that is perfect i like it like that because i don't want to use too much then i don't have to wipe it all the way and you'll see that bead that i'm throwing there it's a perfect gap between the trim and the wall okay whenever you think you've got too much excess you can just rub it in further down the line here sometimes these gaps are a little tricky to work with it's kind of like drywall work right always there we go finish the other direction from the corner so you don't have any of those ridges all right we're going to go around we're going to caulk all of the gaps sweet remember resist the temptation to use this caulking to fill the little holes because this will shrink a little bit when it dries and then when the light hits it the right way everybody's going to see the little dents it's going to look like junk so now our inside and outside miters are glued and nailed we still finish off with the tiniest bead of the caulking okay making sure not to leave any extra on the wood so that when you go to paint you aren't going to have nasty little ridges now this is why i mentioned when you do everything with a 45 degree angle it's not always perfect but you can finish perfect okay just run this finger up like this the direction you're heading don't forget to around the doors to the wall and in your miter joints on the face these things are all nailed and glued together but don't want to rely on the paint to fill all those gaps and cracks in okay as well always do that gap of the door casing to the door jamb that'll soften up that edge get rid of that shadow and then it'll paint in perfectly if you don't use enough the first time and you see a crack go back and fix it don't ever leave a job that you're not happy with there we go nice once you've done all your caulking it's time to fill your nail holes so that the caulking has time to set now this is a two hour drive like i mentioned so put this away and let's get on to the other putty okay so this is when you're gonna want your four inch knife and we don't have to make a lot of putty so just make a little bit of a circle here [Music] hopefully get enough material here that will hold a little bit of water now this is a 45-minute compound so it does take a few minutes to set up and when mixed with cold water it gives you a little bit longer working time so what happens is the water starts to work its way through the mud and slowly will penetrate you can speed the process up just by sprinkling it from the outside edges okay now this takes a little bit of practice so if you're new to this and you try to do this i would suggest doing it in a place where if your volcano collapsed and it ran off all four corners at the same time it's not going to be in a place but you're going to make a mess you're going to regret now i'm a little shy on powder here it feels like all right here we go that's just too loose we are trying to make this more of a putty it's kind of like almost like baking class here you know just keep on putting a little bit more of that on there there we go okay now we don't want it lumpy nice and smooth so you want to work it up a little bit using the side of the knife okay now we're good now there's two holes you have to fill remember we have the holes on the flat section and we have the holes on the detail okay so i'm going to just wipe a little bit on my finger and i'm going to just press that into the hole okay a little goes a long way so the more you put on your finger the more you're going to be wiping off when after you're done filling the hole and for those other details on those flat sections don't trust your finger because your fingers are round then it'll pull some of the material up just use your four inch knife done that's easy now this stuff doesn't shrink when it dries so after it's dry you can take your sanding sponge give it a quick run you're ready for paint so one of the last elements of course is the trim work we're going to just discuss that real quick now here i've got quarter round going underneath the door to close the gap then i'm going to just bring a little bit of a detail to it beautiful just firing probably three nails would be lots that's done okay nice so you'll notice that this kind of trim although the floor is wonky because it's so thin you can manipulate it follow any contour that is beautiful so today i'm going to show you my system for trimming out a window and now we're not just getting in the jambs and the trim we're actually going to use this bull nosing here and make a nice sill so that you can use this as a decorative shelf maybe some herb plants and that sort of thing it's in the kitchen it's nice to dress it up a little bit and whenever i'm doing a tile job with a window trim i like to get the tile done first so that it has room for its expansion and contraction behind all my trims very key and then i can build over top of it all and get a nice clean finished look without having cut tile all up and down the side of my window trims telling you right now if you do it this way your windows are going to look spectacular they're going to have a huge pop let's just jump into this and we'll get the process started so first of all i'm in an old house right this is my 1880 farmhouse kitchen that we're renovating and if you haven't been following along then i suggest just click the link up here and you can start from the very beginning but for everybody else who just wants to learn how to trim out a window what we're looking at is using this regular 1x5 softwood lumber stock okay it's tongue and groove and what we're doing is we're going to create a box this is called the jam extension we're going to do the whole gem extension first and then we're going to insulate it and then trim it and here's why in an old house like this uh it's foaming in the window you want to be a little bit conservative with your foam so that you're not over foaming and causing it all the stick but in the jam area here is where we have the ability after the fact to really get another layer of expansion foam in there as a protection against drafts so we're going to take full advantage of that but first we have to cut and measure all of our jam extensions to the exact depth from the window out to the face of the tile so let's get started so i'm going to use the back of this i've already cut my first sill it's wider than i need to it it makes my life simple now i've got a writing surface okay so i'm going to put uh bottom left top left uh top right and then bottom right these are going to be my numbers so that i can measure trace my lines and cut all the saw at the same time so what i'm gonna do is just take out my tape measure so i'm gonna just lay my wood across the tile to create my my depth and i'm gonna measure this off and it says four inches okay so that's the bottom right and then we're just going to do this all the way around the window get all my numbers four and a quarter all right so now i've got my measurements i'm going to first cut all of my lengths and then i'm going to go take it out to the saw so i already have my bottom if you can imagine this okay and because of the kind of sil trim that i'm going to use i'm going to be bringing this up to about this spot on the window about an eighth of an inch below this trim and i'm going to maintain that all the way around the window when i purchased these windows i had the option to have a track installed it's a part of the pvc mold and it would receive the wood but i find that to be very very frustrating and you have to install one piece at a time there's a lot of other fussing around i prefer to just go right up against the vinyl window and leave myself a little bit of an expansion gap and cover that gap with a finished white pure silicone that way i don't have to worry about painting it i don't get graying over time and i don't have problems with expansion contraction so i'm going to leave 1 8 of an inch all the way around the outside of this window okay so that's how i'm going to measure so i'm going to measure from the inside down to that trim 36 and an eighth and i'm going to add an eighth of an inch for the top that takes me that's actually a quarter 36 and a quarter 36th and three eighths i'm going to put a little bit more on there i'm going to go 36 and a half so i need two at 36 and a half and then i'm gonna need one more across the top i think for simplicity we'll just go long yeah we'll go 33 and a half just like we did here okay all right so now i'm going to go to the saw i'm going to cut my other jams i'm going to trace out my lines and run that through the table saw and then we'll whip it all back together so here's my top sill and we are going to be running everything on the table saw so that the lead edge okay is not getting cut we're going to cut the back side and that's because we're going to add the silicone and it's going to be a surface kind of a cove bead so it'll cover any of the inconsistencies on the table saw because i'm not cutting straight i'm cutting on an angle and it'll also give me a nice straight edge when i'm putting on my casing so that all looks perfect so you got to imagine this upside down and installed all right the left side i have my measurement four and a quarter and i'm going to measure from my front edge and you can just put an arrow on it if it helps four and a quarter on this side it is four inches all right that's one that's the top obviously this will be the left side there's my lead edge okay right so here's the front this is the bottom it's four and a quarter all the way across so i don't have to mark that and trace it i'll just set the guide on my saw for four and a quarter for that one makes it simple the other side is four we'll set the guide for that one and this one is the bottom [Applause] we'll call that my lead edge okay the right side is four and a quarter so the left side is four and a quarter the right side is four there we go okay so i've got all the information i need on these boards now i'm going to go with the saw once and make all my cuts and remember when you're working with this don't be afraid if you take a little bit too much off if you're an extra 16th or something it's not going to be an issue it's or if you're even a little bit too long you're going to be okay once you put this on no surface is perfectly flat especially in an old farmhouse there's going to be areas there where you're going to be using the silicone afterwards behind the wood especially with detailed tile so we're not being concerned about being perfect here we're just making sure that we're going to be close enough so that when we do all of our silicone work then it looks perfect all right that's the secret don't be difficult and hard on yourself right now because everything here is expanding and contracting so you want to make sure you have a little bit of room everywhere for that to happen if you make things too precise you're going to find out that everything's when it moves it's going to cause you issues so let's get to the saw [Music] [Music] so [Music] so the piece that goes here i actually ran through the saw really quickly took off just a hair because it has a rounded edge naturally from the factory and because i'm laminating the sill on there i didn't want to have that i need it nice and flat so this is going to go here and what i'm going to do is i'm going to lift this up just to mark where my wood is going to make contact so an eighth of an inch past there eighth of an inch past there okay i'm going to translate that information to the other piece which i cut the same length this way help to ensure that my window stays square all right now i'm going to nail all of this together in advance of using any of this right nice and simple now i'm not dealing with a ton of extra space here so i think we'll set it up like this oh yeah lovely one thing remember i always use glue on your finished carpentry you have to glue your joints or you're not doing finished carpentry you're just sticking wood together and it's all going to come apart again all right now i'm using an 18 gauge 18 gauge finish nailer just gonna pop in two or three i got two inches in here right now which is probably a little overkill however a little bit of know-how and self-control we're gonna be all right okay so remember i want to line this up on my pencil mark and flush on the front and not be too concerned and don't leave your finger in the way just in the odd case that the nail comes back out that is pain you don't ever want to experience so the goal here when you're working on site instead of in the shop you got to be a little more creative generally speaking we want to get that on that nail mark the pencil mark sorry and then we'll get glue on this end and then there we go this area here is all like up against the window if it doesn't make contact it's not as big an issue as whether or not the front is flush and let's see if we know what we're doing hey yeah it's gonna work all right whoo now let's just double check this and you can see it is a little bit thicker than what i need but my wall is so inconsistent i'd rather be a little bit thicker i'm loving that so what i'm going to do now is i'm going to use shims to put all this in place but my the best kind of shim in this situation because i have a lot of room that i have to cover is a couple of spare blocks of this i'll be right back so for anyone who's inquisitive and wants to know why there's two different kinds of foams on this window because i was out of spray foam when we went to go and install this window the first time we did that in a video put that link in the description up in the card here i use the phone from my local hardware store and it expanded so much that i couldn't open the window unbelievable i don't usually use that brand and that's probably why so i had to go back out to the store get my other brand and then cut out all that foam and reinstall the window unbelievable anyway lesson learned eh once you've got something you know that you like stick with it so i'm gonna put these blocks down done now i can shim the difference that'll be a lot more convenient okay now the nature of shims is that they're wedges and if you reverse them put them together the same thickness which helps a lot so i'm going to go start with two on each side just to get this closer to where we want to be okay like i said in an 1880s farmhouse nothing is level except for what you put in so you're forever making minor adjustments eh i'm liking that side not liking this side yet a little bit here okay once you're happy with the height you want to just check here and here make sure that the gap is the same on both of those okay don't worry about the top anymore once you get the height where you want it we're just going to drive through the shim now generally if we because we use a laser level when we install our windows that should be perfect it is once you have this installed level this 1 8 gap should be consistent all the way to the top and then you can just double check with your square i mean that's just money in the bank isn't it taking the time to make things off of a laser when you're building makes everything simpler so now i don't even have to think about it i can just push a little bit of resistance going the opposite direction with my 501 here set my depth two inch now good done now that's why i said that we're going to use expansion foam later because the nature of how this house is built i don't have really good framing so by throwing that expansion foam in that's going to bond everything together really nicely i'm just going to finish with a couple of nails here getting pressure to the window okay nice there we go step one is complete now like i said we want to also guard against drafts remember that there's two panes this is a double hung so i have a thermal layer here and a thermal layer here there are different layers if you fill the entire cavity with expansion foam so that you can take care of both of these thermal layers at the very beginning you're going to run into trouble so generally we don't get that extensive expansive with it see my nails are just making contact i'm not going to overshoot this with foam but i am going to put in a little bit here so that i have a good bond okay here we go just across the front all right i'm not going to overfill that's basically the structure for my window now all right and a little bit down here make sure i got a good thermal break there we go nice of course across the top here we are now if you're shooting at the side instead of at the back then you'll get the foam to fill in front and has room to grow into the back if i just point straight in i'm going to fill it so full this will all end up bowing out [Applause] all right there we go close the gun love the foam gun ah just a quick note when you're done close the handle always set it upside down so that the gas isn't constantly leaking out all right it'll also keep it from falling over it's beautiful that's it now we have a window jam now it's time for the fun part okay now it's time for the sill now this is going to get contact right there all right that is going to be a lot of fun the way that we take care of this and measuring this out is you want to kind of find that middle of the windowish okay and you could always take a pencil and and mark a center line and there you go now when you're working you have something to reference from if it falls apart on you what i'm looking to do is set my window casing about there i have a full rounded corner and i have a casing starting and i want to make sure that when i put that casing there i've got room to add my painters caulking and then i can paint that all together so now my trim is going to go from about this point moving out i want my silt to extend just a little bit past the full width of the trim now let me show you this i cut this earlier that'll be the trim now on that pencil mark there which is about a full eighth maybe three sixteenths okay now i have the width of my trim i can make that mark you can see that you don't want this extending way past there but perhaps an inch up to where that tile is would look really good then i have a thinner version of the same trim series that's going to go underneath all right and you want that to go you want that to finish up at the same point here as underneath so we're going to extend this a little bit so there's my mark here we go put this down before i get whacked in the head so from my center mark my trim was nineteen and three eighths okay so i'm going to add an inch to that 20 and three eighths and i'll go this way and i'll rather cut this thing on both ends and know that i've got it the same dimension okay that's where we're going to cut it that's our length right but the outside corner of this is actually right here right but what we want to do is we want to cut that on a 45 degree angle isn't that interesting so by using this square you can line it up create a cut line for your saw right there okay that's going to be my cut line and then i'm also going to cut another piece so that this detail is cut opposite like from this angle here i'll cut this first we've got to square off the end don't ever work with trim from the factory always cut your in first before you measure okay they never come straight i'm going to cut that i'm going to cut this what this is going to give me is this piece to fit around so that this detail will go back to the wall i'm going to do that on both sides just thought i would draw that out for you when i come back from the saw i'll put fit this all together glue it and nail it first and then we can install it now you might notice i don't know if it shows up on camera very well but i've already pre-painted all this trim the first coat i just like it because it seems to save me a whole lot of effort and energy from bending over the counters and painting everything i don't mind doing one coat when i'm done but i don't want to have to do the primer and everything else it's nice to get all that done first now i'm just taking a sanding block getting rid of any of these loose hairs okay at the right end match it up put on a little bit of glue because we're gluing everything as we go here okay which is why i have my counter covered in a garbage bag exactly where i want it i'm going to fire in okay there we are now the nail is really just designed to hold that in place until the glue dries all right so we're gonna do both both ends here okay you can see they're starting to come together right now you can see this coming together okay so next because it's a sill you can might be putting things on here that are like one or two pounds maybe five pounds you want to actually attach this so it doesn't actually break off the secret to that is this construction screws okay not only do we want to make sure that doesn't fall off but we want to make sure that that is bonded with the glue so tightly it's under compression that it becomes one piece of wood because we cut it with the saw that's going to be difficult so we want to add the extra strength of the screw here all right so we don't run into problems down the road so what i'm going to do is i'm actually going to put some pre-drilled holes in here because i want that screw to go exactly where i want it and into this trim so i'm going to pre-drill my [Music] hole [Music] getting the screws in before i start is like having an extra pair of hands all right here we go okay i don't really need to take the glue that far do i moving over the tile what am i thinking all right here we go now this is where having that center line comes in handy you want to hold that center line together now you want to put your pressure right here make sure your sill is nice and flush because it's pre-drilled it's going to go into that meat before you sink that screw all the way in make sure all the other screws are started because you could tilt everything out of position all right now we're ready we actually want to drive the screw in until it's past the surface and that gives us perfect compression you want to do this until you have a hole that can be filled and anybody who's a fan of my channel knows what's coming next we're going to get some 45 foot mix it up and fill that in that way we can sand it back off have a perfect paintable surface all right we're getting there now just a note if you go to a proper trim supplier they do make this nosing as a one piece if your window is the right dimension because our house is old the dimensional number is thicker than usual and i added an extra layer on top of the finished wood siding i did not expect my window to bring it all the way in far enough that i could do this one piece turns out that i needed a half an inch more than the regular stock so that's why i had to do a two piece doing it this way is nice and simple if you were doing the one piece you could literally just measure the whole length that you wanted okay and then you would just cut the l's out of the piece and you still have to buy a piece of bullnose to do the rounded edge right so it's kind of like i like doing two piece just because i have all that flexibility i don't have to worry about making mistakes here we go that is awesome now we just have to put on our casing let's do that this is as simple as measuring roughly right right there so i just translate my mark on here and i put my pencil mark on a 45 and i'll get another couple pieces and we'll do that yeah about there now just for fun because i've leveled everything i should be able to take both of these marks and they should be in the same spot okay there we go so i'm going to just put a little bit of a mark on there so i know i'm going to go cut these and install them now i enjoy the dewalt gun but there is one feature that drives me nuts this gun doesn't stop shooting nails when it runs out if you're like me i used to have a rigid gun and i'll tell you i don't know why i bought this must been on sale or something but the rigid gun it always stops when you run out of nails i don't know how many times i've been just going along and hailing in baseboards can't tell when you're out of nails you turn around everything's falling off the wall you're like anyway i don't know why i needed to share that i needed the vent dewalt fix your gun here we go i'm gonna get that on my mark that i like and i'm driving these nails right into the jamb that's all i've got to work with okay then i'm going to measure and cut my top piece and i need to have the flexibility to make sure everything closes up perfect here we are okay so because we cut the jm square the same dimensions i don't have to crawl up to the top to measure this all i do is take this measurement across the bottom and i can cut the top piece and put my miters on it's no problem now this is uh just a sixteenth shy of 39. nice all right remember wherever you have raw wood to raw wood got a glue i'm gonna tell you every time i do it because if you don't your joints are guaranteed to crack if you have cracking joints on your window trim and your baseboards it's because they aren't gluing it properly there's just no two ways around it some things in life you can make pretty for a weekend but if you want it to be pretty forever you just gotta do it right okay i'm not even gonna think about this i have three quarter inch wood i'm going to throw a nail in it now love nail guns by the way you know in the old days you'd pull off the trim that have this two inch spike that they had to put in with a hammer god to be a finished carpenter back in the day unreal what they had to go through all right now we just want to make sure our gap is right now in our jam of course we still have the piece underneath to do we still have to do the caulking and the putty and the filler oh i think we should probably get to all that in just a second here this is the door casing it's massive right this is a smaller version of the same trim so it has the same trim profile just without the flat piece which makes it larger this makes a great decorative detail underneath it was also the perfect size for me because i've got these huge windows in a kitchen and i needed two counter plugs so in order to make room obviously i put the plugs on the side and i use a laser level to mount those so that everything is perfect now this leaves me just enough room to get my cover plates on amazing i'll take what i have and i'll show you two options for finishing underneath one is the same thing you cut the 45 return piece just like we did with the other and you know what that's such a small piece of wood i'm just gonna let that sit there there's another situation where i'll use painters tape but i never use tape when i paint it's just how it works baby here we go there we go that's all i need i'll set that aside to dry so here's one option i set the saw on 25 degrees and just a straight cut okay there's no return trim you can paint that in and you get that look that's not terrible right now the way that you would install this especially over tile is you've got to really be thinking now because you want to shoot on an angle just underneath that detail trim up into the up into the cell okay and you can do that and then you're not actually attaching this to the tile you don't have to use no nails or any kind of adhesives you just throw a few nails up there and you're good to go when we're all done we're going to put a thin line of silicone on here just to seal it up and that would be the solution to that problem here we go or okay we have that option we have this option and you get to decide which one you like personally i'm a big fan of cutting trims back to the return they look sort of similar but i just like that detail from the side when you're using thick trim how it looks from the side is important okay so today is crown molding day and i am excited because my delivery came i have a special plaster face how do you call it styrofoam crown molding it's pretty cool stuff and it's really awesome for the di wire because you can get amazing performance with really easy installation all by yourself but i figured hey if i'm going to do that let's do a video we'll show the differences between doing the wood crown and that crown and that way no matter which material you choose you'll have the tools and the secrets so you can be successful so i went by my trim shop because i had to get some stuff for the windows and i grabbed a couple pieces of wood crown molding now just a word of warning if you're using wood remember depending on the moisture content of the wood at the time that it gets milled you might have differences in sizes as far as a finished product is concerned when you go to install it that's the only downside to using wood it is a little inconsistent as far as making really good miter joints but that's what cocking is for so let's get into it so before we get started i need to cut myself a cheat piece and this is important because wood has movement and warp so what you want to do is have about a two foot long section with an inside and an outside miter on it so that when you're installing your wood you can use that to help roll your corners just perfectly i'll show you all this information in a second but first let's get this just done here [Music] [Applause] most types of crown have a very similar property in the fact that they are designed to be a perfect representation of the angle no matter which way you install it which means that the distance from the back of the fence to the to the front of the crown here and the back of the fence to the top of the crown here is exactly the same when it's installed flush against both surfaces all right now you can double check with a tape measure but what i do is i like to set my crown up grab myself a black marker because this just makes the whole day so much faster and i'll mark my fence watch this there's my line okay now when i'm working i know exactly where to set this i just walk up roll it until it's in position and i can cut the other thing you can do now that it's in there nice and tight you can set up your 45 line going in both directions all right now your saw is all set up so that you don't have to pull out the tape measure or roll things around the last thing you need to know and this is difficult is the detail generally speaking the beefier detail goes at the bottom and this this liner profile goes at the top so all this extra detail here you want to keep that very consistent and make sure you pay attention to that because if you're installing you've cut it upside down nothing's going to line up it'll drive you crazy so okay i'm making this really obvious that's the bottom that's the top when you put it in your saw here we go you actually want to not cut it this way you actually want to cut it upside down okay now here's the secret if that confuses you at all stand behind your saw when you're looking at your cuts and you'll be like it just makes sense now because now you're looking at it the same way you will be when you lift it up and put it on the ceiling okay and it can get a little confusing but you have to cut your crown upside down so that all you have to do is move 45 degrees inside an outside corner with a saw set up perfect 90. now as long as you do that you will be very very successful the last thing you want to do is this remember the devil is in the details whenever you're working with finished carpentry like a crown molding and you're doing miters the most important element is this the saw is set to lock at 45 degrees in one direction but you have to be 90 degrees here so grab your square roll your guard out okay actually i'll do it from this side and then slide your square against your blade if you have contact here but not here then make adjustment in the back you can't cut anything like that because none of your joints are going to line up so just roll it back until it's perfect and then lock it in place now we're ready to go you can use this system here to set your degree cut but the reality is is that your your your little your detail here that's showing you what angle you're at is in a set screw and it may or may not be perfect so it's better to always check with your saw with the square which isn't going to lie to you than something like this that can move around over time so let's get to our demonstration now we're dealing with softwood lumber here so we don't need to worry about putting blocking in behind the walls and that sort of thing we can install this just with caulking and brad nails guaranteed to be fine but what you want to do is you want to hold your profile put it up in the space all right and i'm going an inside corner so you want your miter to be facing towards you this one isn't very pretty so i'm going to cut it again remember i'm going to put it upside down drop it on the fence really quickly with my lines that's my location i'm going to turn and cut [Applause] and just for fun this is only a 10 inch saw you don't need to have a big powerful machine you don't need compound miter sliding all those bells and whistles two hundred dollars gets you a quality saw just be sure to put a quality blade on it find yourself an 80 tooth for finished carpentry so i'm using a door and window latex caulking with silicone which is an elastomeric property so it doesn't crack over time oh one second i didn't open this thing up yet this one's brand new there we go cut the tip on an angle slide it in and with latex caulking there's nothing to puncture so just go right ahead all we do is run a little bead right here on the bottom okay and then right on the top [Applause] now i've got my profile sheet and i stick it in the corner and you can see they both feel pretty flush to the wall in the ceiling but they're not the same spot so what i got to do is find that happy place where they line up and if i have a gap at the top i have a gap up here it means i need to roll this piece up onto the ceiling and so now i've got the the bottom at the same spot i'll roll both of them together until the gap is closed there we go now i've got it in position just take out the nail gun shoot up the detail that's not going anywhere now the way you finish that of course is just use a caulking tube and you want to put a nice bead of caulking up here okay there we go now a lot of people fill their nail holes with the with the caulking as well that's fine if your if your trim is nine or ten feet in the air if you're only at eight feet that caulking is going to shrink and you're going to see every single pinhole if you're walking through the house if you have a discerning eye so i would suggest using more like a drywall compound or a glazing putty that you can fill all those holes that won't shrink now now that i've shown you how the wood properties work let's go do the other way so here's my new product this is styrofoam now it's a pretty medium density styrofoam so it's actually a lot stronger than just the old white stuff you used to have in your basements but it is plaster faced okay it's a spray on application pretty sure it's amazing because it can actually do curved walls because it can twist when it's in this curved position so awesome the benefit for us is that it installs using drywall compound that's it nice and simple so your butt joints are just square cut your miter joints you just put mud in the corner and squeeze it all together and wipe it out with a sponge let's get to this installation i'll show you how different it is and all the different techniques for cutting this one on the sock one of the first benefits that you see right away is that these trims come in a variety of size and because it's a styrofoam look at the length of that that's almost two inches of profile contacting with the wall that makes it incredibly easy to attach to the surface also makes it easy to set on your your saw you just literally set it in place and you know you're good okay there's no real variance here if it's not tight you'll tell and just give it a little push good to go same thing with plyzo leave the majority of your detail for the bottom and of course we're cutting upside down first cut we have here is an inside miter i need a little bit more room there we go set this out of 45 make sure your blade of course is 90 to the table and off we go so one of the benefits of using this material you don't need the nail gun or the compressor which means if you're a homeowner and you own a saw you've got all the tools you need to put in crown molding this is just awesome that's just freaking awesome i wonder if it's gonna be big enough [Music] look at that okay well it seems that my 10 inch saw is just a hair shy no worries i have a knife i can finish the cut with that awesome now this is a pretty large profile you can get them a little smaller or a little larger if you dare if you have a 12-inch saw you'd be in great shape now that's my outside corner i first need to do i need to measure now there's three ways to measure inside cornered inside corner for crown molding i would recommend taking a look you can measure across the bottom and you can run past your corner and read the tape in that situation that would be 73 and 7 8. you can put it inside and bend your tape in and take a your best guess or you can leave it like this and run it across and you can take the actual measurement where it contacts the tape and then check your tape and it'll have the actual dimension of the tape itself and you can add those two numbers together depending on the situation i use all three different techniques but again so this situation here because i have inside corners it's a lot easier for me to just run the tape right past i'm going to go with 73 and 7 8. good to go so remember you want to measure from the outside of this point okay 73 and 7 8 is our number this is the bottom and once you get used to this it will move actually quite quick 73 and 7 8. it's right there and i also want to put a mark it's an inside corner coming back this way one of the reasons i love having my saw on a stand is because when you have space confines you can just slide it down give yourself a little more room all right here we go again set to 45 we can just bring this down now because you're dealing with the material that's getting applied with drywall compound all of these inside corners even if they're not perfect are going to be filled up and smoothed in with a wet sponge for the drywall compound even if you have to cut it and it's a little off it's going to be just fine all right here we go so now we have our piece of crown last thing you want to do is just go up and double check if you've cut it a little bit too long and it's sitting bowed then it's not going to adhere to the wall very well that's going to be awesome you really want to roll it around back and forth until it's snug in the wall just like it was on this offense okay and then just to help visually you can make your marks here we go now we can put the mud on and stick in place so now we're using all purpose compound for drywall now the secret is this when you buy your drywall compound it actually needs to have water mixed in with it to make it nice and smooth so if you're interested in that process you're not familiar with that you can click this video link right here and you can watch how we prepare the mud but if you've already been through this process and you're in a renovation and you've been doing the drywall this will be really easy if you're not used to using a drywall knife this could be challenging then i would suggest just start with a little bit at a time okay and you want to just kind of use it like a snow plow and then flatten it out okay you don't need to have too much mud here because it's just going to all end up coming out all over the ceiling and making a huge mess there we go we're looking for positive contact and that's it now you've got two options you can add the compound to the trim piece or you can add it to the wall in the ceiling area if you've already got finished walls and ceiling you're probably going to want to add it to the trim be patient this does not dry very fast so you got lots of time to work with it all right so now we're gonna start on the corner and follow the line how to put on the wall we're just gonna roll it in place okay i'm gonna put pressure on the top and the bottom just to make sure that it holds in place there we go isn't that nice hey unlike wood trim this one you want to just use a little bit of drywall compound to do your seam now all right put that in there you go okay we just wipe all that in there we are pretty same thing holds true you can always come back when it's dry take your latex window and door caulking put that on the bottom of the top get a perfect finish now we're gonna do the inside corner joint as well as a butt joint i'll show you all those techniques as well and then you'll be able to do crown in your house so the only downside of this type of crown is because it's getting shipped to your home directly which is not a bad thing it only comes in eight foot lengths now because it does such a great job with the joints it doesn't really matter but you don't want to waste any of this so my next piece is eight foot and five eighths five inches so i'm just going to reuse this golf cut here and start my next row wow that's the only waste that's a pretty good deal here we go now because i'm going to be doing a butt a butt joint here i want to just do a little trim on this make sure that my joint is going to be perfect there we go now remember this is an inside corner so i actually want to put the compound all over the inside of that corner as well okay and you can be liberal here you don't have to worry about putting too much the biggest danger here is using not enough and we'll stick that in there roll the top up to close the gap look at that okay i'm just going to clean that excess off with my finger now for long pieces of this trim they're going to recommend you put some sort of temporary bracing in place and that can be nails or screws just tapped in underneath or if you have some zip wall you can use these these things are awesome done all right let me take my sponge i'm going to work my corner we'll be able to come back a little bit later and perfect and add some caulking on this at the ceiling joint so we don't get expansion cracks but we'll also be able to use our latex caulking on the inside corners if you want to but you could finish up just by taking a finger ring of this mud and sliding it back up from that gap again just like this and that makes a really nice joint now that i'm happy with my corner i'm just going to take a screw put it underneath my trim here give it a little love tap now i can take this out and use it on my next joint remember the drywall compound takes overnight to dry so you've got all kinds of time to get around the room roll all your corners perfect and then tack your screws in i just like to use the poles as i go so nothing falls on my head so here we are we're going to do our inside corner whenever you're cutting a long piece the to go into a butt joint always do the angle first remember the butt joint here is going to be on our left but our piece is upside down so we want to do an inside corner and give ourselves as much material to work with as we can now we're going to measure from the inside corner to the butt joint 81 and 5 8. because we're going to be cutting it straight we can turn it around and lay it flat that makes it a lot easier to measure so i did my measurement based on the tip it comes to here but i really want to translate that measurement to the other side because that's where the saw will come in contact first so i'm putting my square on here making my mark there we are you can roll it up a little bit if you need to all right now i intentionally cut this about a 32nd of an inch too long i like the idea having just a little bit of compression to help hold it in place here we go so we're going to roll this in now oh i forgot didn't put any mud on the end of the joint there that is going to cause me problems there we go okay and just like we did the last time oh this was well done i just fell off my ladder matt there we go are you okay yep of course i'm okay fell off my ladder didn't die so now we want to put enough compression on these joints and position them so they're both in the same place here we go that makes it seamless wow here we go that is beautiful i love it not bad eh this is one of these things where i'd never tried this product before i'm a big fan of working with wood right i don't even use mdf i just like using wood that's a little messy obviously but uh if you're working alone super lightweight and easy to install like i'm gonna have to finish this video off with uh coming back tomorrow to film the finished product after we've done the caulking and the paint process and you're gonna be able to see in just a few seconds how amazing this finished product looks wow okay so it's the next day and all the mud is nice and dry so i'm going to use my window and door caulking to seal up all the gaps and then after a couple of hours that'll also be dry enough to paint we'll come by and do our first paint application and then we're also going to take our sanding sponge out and just go around looking for minor imperfections that we can touch up because if i can see it on a ladder then i should take care of it because there's a chance that i'll see it from standing on the ground but if i can't see it on the ladder then it doesn't exist even if it's there here we go just uh have a nice angle on your the tip there and if you're pulling this way pointing the other way then you can leave enough material there that you can fill it with a concave kind of look there we go all right nice and gentle here just to put that that cove line in there there's too much material and clean off your finger you don't want to just leave it on the ceiling make a mess here we go now once this is dry we'll come back and we'll give it two shots of paint and that's your opportunity after your first coat to really check to see if it's enough material there or did it dry and shrink up during the process if it shrinks up too much you might want to put a second bead on there because you don't want to have shadows appearing at that joint it's really important to make sure that these little details are done really really well because that is going to be how you're judged on the overall performance all right so we are gonna go and paint the trim now and we're using a semi-gloss paint and i know that i'm from canada and you all don't have access to dulux a lot of our european market does in the united states they're owned by the company called ppg so they have access to the same technology paints and they're probably labeled differently i'm not familiar with it yet i get to do a road trip and discover the truth about that but if you're looking for comparable paint companies sherwin williams has a really nice product and they're coast to coast all throughout north america benjamin moore line is nice some of the paints are different and they function differently so it's kind of odd there but the most important thing to know is when you're buying paint the quality of the paint really is reflected in the price it's a pretty fair gamble that if you're buying paint at twenty dollars a gallon versus sixty five dollars a gallon you're getting value there and it's worth the investment so i would recommend don't be afraid to spend a little money especially on shrimp paint because this is one of these areas where if you don't have a good one you're going to be doing three or four coats to get the coverage and it's going to be too thin and every brush stroke is going to have dots of paint flying across the room so it's really a nightmare feel free to buy a good quality paint here pour about an inch into the bottom of another container all right and when i say that i mean this you can't paint from this can when it's full because all you can do is dab the paint and then wipe it off there's no paint inside the brush so with something like this you can actually pound the bottom of that can right and fill up your brush now when you're painting trim you don't want to have too much paint on the outside of your brush obviously but i'm telling right now this is full of paint and i'm going to be able to go and paint four to six linear feet of my trim with that and i can carry it around with me so i have enough paint in here to do the entire crown molding that whole room this is how you do it right okay by the way if you haven't seen our paint videos about the tools and stuff that we use then you're really going to want to check that out the link is right here all of the gear my ladder all my tips and tricks are in there and i guess we're going to have links for all of the locations where you can pick that material up as well so go ahead and check the video out it'll be a lot of help to you um regarding this i really should have done a code on this material before i installed it but the reality is is it got delivered late and i was getting a little excited to get the video shot so now i got to do two coats while i'm here having said that the first coat is more of a base coat primer coat just to get coverage the second coat is the finished coat and after i do this first coat i'm going to go around and look for little minor imperfections do a little sanding i've got a couple of nicks here these are actually dents from my saw guard um listen learned and also going to take the brush with the ceiling paint and do a new cut line okay once i've established my line then the second coat i'll come back and do a nice finish clean cut my danger here is if i do a perfect cut with the semi-gloss now i'm gonna have this painter's caulking on the ceiling unpainted and what that means is that over time it'll gray and it'll start getting a dark line there so you have to make sure that when you're painting you always paint your paintable caulking every time the only time you're not going to paint is if you're using pure silicone but siliconized caulking will go gray so i'm going to get my first coat on i'm not going to be too picky about my cut line i'm going to come back with the ceiling paint and then hit it again and i'm not going to show all that whole process for you here we go so a little dab will do pound that into the bottom of the can get some paint in your brush and look at all of that control right i'm not flinging paints everywhere i'm not dripping i don't even have a drop cloth on my new kitchen floor here all right there we are i'm not painting like a wild man i'm just trying to get that cut line in there i'm gonna get some all over the ceiling and that's fine after you get your first coat on the texture of the surface gets nice and slippery and easy for the paint to glide around while it's textured like this you've really got to force the paint in it's hard to do a nice cut line so let's not be picky here we just want to get it on get some good coverage try not to get too much on the ceiling so then you don't have to do like a three inch wide swipe with the ceiling paint because that'll be noticeable but to come back with the ceiling paint after the fact and just do a little bit of a trim line it's not going to be an issue especially with all the downward light that we built into this house with the pot lights which is one of the reasons why pot lights are so popular in the marketplace all that down light means people aren't looking up at the ceiling it allows you a lot of freedom for imperfections here we go they aren't popular because they're sexy they're popular because they hide problems every time the builders come up with a new product the first thing you got to ask yourself is what are they trying to hide because if they're not hiding something they're not making any more money they're not going to be bringing that product to market okay here we go okay first coat looks pretty good from standing on the ground you're probably looking at that going oh that's all right the way it is but trust me when i say this taking the time to recut the ceiling and doing a second coat and a little sanding in between it's going to be absolutely marvelous so here we go it's time for the last coat of paint just take your sanding sponge out look for any issues there like some some dirts in there or anything like that sanding sponges are awesome because they'll follow the contour of the work make sure everything is perfectly smooth okay and then same as before push the paint in the brush don't want to use too much all right now there we go we don't have to paint that lead edge on there the second time all the way around we just need to get a little bit on there that's good more importantly it's the body of this trim detail and you want to paint and stretch it out until your lines are gone okay you don't want to leave any lines in your paint now most of these paints are made with technology or while it's drying it'll blend it'll soften up but if you leave lines in your trim paint you're gonna have lines there forever and then it'll look really bad so feel free less is more when you're working with trim paint just slopping on the paint will make a mess less is more just a couple linear feet at a time work it back and forth now i don't know if the camera sees this but there's a bunch of lines here so maybe it's just the lighting but i can see them because i'm standing right here right and so i obviously had too much paint in my brush i'm going to just stretch my brush out and dry it up a little bit i'm going to come back and get rid of my lines there we go okay so the gable lens you got to go to the store and get some hardware these little inside corners are all you need little l brackets now i like to always have my stickers on the inside so if you see your sticker you know you're on the inside now you don't really need four of these bad boys do you traditionally these panels are designed for being installed past the hardware and the rail to the wall surface so they're actually wider than you need for an island situation so you want to keep that in mind you want to have this extending past the edge of the cabinet the same depth as your doors and your drawer faces which i have right here so i'm going to put my panel flush with the front of the cabinet and you can see there's my door right this i don't want sticking past that so i'm actually going to go to 24 and a half so 24 and a quarter inches for these panels okay so okay so i wrote down the width on the piece of tape for later once the guy for the countertop measuring has come and gone i'm going to take this apart cut down my width of my panel and the height of my panel and in this case it is one and five eighths for the purpose of measuring i'm going to install it here but when i actually put it together later i'm going to install it like this because i'm going to buy a 24 inch door to go on the front of this on the front of that panel as a decorative feature okay to make it look like a fake door that way it'll line up a lot by nicer but for the purpose of measuring a counter so that we don't confuse anybody [Applause] we're going to just attach this so we get our outside measurements for the whole counter and they don't mess that up now the way we're going to do this is just take some l brackets and tape we're going to tape these in place nice and flush and run our screws all through the tape [Music] all right that's why that is important i'm using socket screws they're just really tiny they're 3 8 not designed really for the wood but if you push hard enough you'll make good contact and you don't come when it comes to the other side which is the most important part of this remember the other side of this panel is visible when it's all finished so you don't want to take a chance of screwing that up all right now this panel goes in here and this panel goes here i'm just going to use a little bit of tape to hold this outside corner together done you're going to start screwing now this seems like an awful lot of work to go through to kind of arbitrarily attach this for now but i know these cabinet guys [Music] and they hate taking measurements until everything is in place the truth is they'd rather all the appliances are installed as well but i don't care because every one of these guys does the same thing they come out here they'll do their measuring and then they're going to make me sign off on it and they're going to make me take responsibility for any of the mistakes that are made based on measurements so if i'm going to take responsibility for it i would rather just say add the other 51 and 5 baits that i've got measured on my wall i don't have to go through this nuts but [Music] for the purpose of the demonstration today i'm going to show you what you're going to expect from a cabinet guy who isn't going to be very nice and play ball with you like that because then most likely not going to be very friendly about you hammering this in the wrong place so here we go now i can establish my outside corner for the end of my island so here we are i'm putting this in position and i'll tell you why a lot of these countertop guys are bringing in a laser level system and they want to have a position for the laser clips they'll put a clip here put a clip there and so on and then they'll turn on the machine it automatically detects the location of all those clips and does all the measurements and puts it in the diagram in their computer that's why if you don't have the outside edges established the computer's got nothing to work with so i got to use this and i've got to put a 5 8 something or other over there off the edge and what i'll probably end up doing is grabbing a piece of plywood and i'll just screw it to the outside of this cabinet for now that'll solve that problem and then they're gonna the computer will automatically add the overhang so that'll take care of it so now i'm established actually i'm ready to go because i've got 24 inches plus 24 inches plus this gable which is actually going to sit in between the middle this recom this actually establishes the outside dimension of my island and if i'm right all of this i'm at 102 and a half right now and if i add the other 5 8 103 and an eighth that's about as close as i'm going to get today now when they are measuring your countertop they're going to throw an extra inch on each side so you have a little bit of variance a little bit of wiggle room the important thing is here now that this is established we have one last chance to make sure that we're happy with the location in the room not just the depth here off of these off the back wall but also other features like when you're walking around the outside of the island so one of my favorite design elements about the ikea kitchen is that they always have these gables right so we have a take a look at the drawer cabinet you can see you see that's the end of the box but then these gable elements come out and they extend past the box to encapsulate all your doors and drawers now they come 26 by 36 so the 24 inch cabinet usually when you put this on up against a wall you're finding they give it a little extra room so that you can scribe them into place they're also amazing in an island because it can encapsulate both sides this is why they're 26 inches i'll just demonstrate this before we cut the height in this scenario i can go full extension over here for that side and then over here i can put a back panel on and i have enough depth left over to add a back panel and decorative doors so if i wanted to do a replication of all doors across the back of this to look like cabinets then you can do that and you would be perfectly fine to do that what we're doing is actually we're going to be doing a build out in a custom made back side of the island so we're going to leave the full extension on it but i've got to measure and cut for the height now the way you do that is you don't want to cut the gable at the counter top that's a mistake okay that'll be very noticeable and very ugly so find a surface where you can lay it down always sticker side up that means this is the inside of the cabinet okay and generally you want to do something like mark the top so you can keep your reference okay just take your measuring tape because especially in an old house like this nothing's ever level we've got 34 34 and an eighth and you measure from the top down use a straight line connect the dots and then we'll run it out to the saw one thing to pay attention to when you're opening up your boxes it says don't use a knife it means down the side here because this is the finished panel there's not a lot of mercy there right but there's a little box right here always save the box because this is custom sized screws for attaching the panel to the cabinets if you go to the hardware store and you buy cabinet screws you're going to find them are going to come at one and a quarter inch long now you're ready for this this screw is one and an eighth all right and the difference is this i'll just take this random panel here if you were to measure and put this screw up here let's say we're screwing from inside the cabinet i got lots of room there right that looks great if that screw was a little bit further that's like the standard in a box is one and a quarter you only have an eighth of an inch material left and because this is like a high density fiber board okay what happens when you drive that screw in at one and a quarter you get little raised dents in the panel so you don't want to have that ugly look so make sure you set aside these screws because they are a life saver now these screws are amazing you can use the pre-drilled holes if you like doesn't really matter but i'm old school and you just drive it until the drill says otherwise there we go beautiful so the last thing i'm going to show you about the ikea system is of course the baseboard now if you remember i told you the beginning of the video save these little weird shape looking things and here's why the way this all installs once we get rid of the packaging this stuff here is like for model airplanes break it off and you can stick it on the end if you have an exposed end but since we're using all these end panels we don't have need of that there we go this system is simple you put these in you can rotate them and lock them in position and they lock on the legs right nice and easy all you have to do is cut the length and then the height now there's two sides to this one end has a little rubber gasket here and it's designed to keep water from getting under the counter when you wash your floors and the other side is designed for easy cutting so you can cut the height remember the legs for these counters are adjustable so you might have a situation like i do in my old house where you have to scribe a little bit the detail on this but that's no big deal now for the purpose of our education today i went ahead and i prepped this one up for us okay and i'll show you how easy it is to snap these things in place wait we'll just get down into position here so remember when we put the feet together we have these adjustable discs that slide up and down and we're going to put these down now near the bottom and what that does is it sets a depth the same as the ring okay that sets so this will end up square when you push it all together there we go now we got to get that in there and all we do is slide it in place there we go and snap it on baseboards now the feature here that we're going to talk about just for a couple minutes give you an idea unfortunately we weren't able to film on the day that this went in this is life right huge renovation project going on here what it is is a barn board it's bought from a design store comes in two different widths okay what they've done is they've taken these old boards and they've sliced them right down the middle so they're only half an inch thick and then all you have to do to install this stuff is really a few stages one you want to paint the surface behind it it comes with imperfections and not holes and little angles and chips missing and if you paint a nice dark brown or a dark gray or something like that then when you install this board and you look at the wall you aren't going to see the wall board behind it or whatever surface it is like on this particular part i've got grey cabinet on one side from ikea and the other side is an osb panel and i didn't want two different knot holes showing that there's a different back on each side it looks stupid so we paint it and then when we let the paint dry the way we install this use a laser level set up your line okay install your first row using a 23 gauge nailer not an 18 gauge nailer it's called a pin nailer and the holes in the surface of this wood are so small you can't even find them if you look for them the reason for that is this we're using pl premium adhesive strips setting the wood into the glue and then just throwing a couple of pins on to hold it in place until it dries that's it and this is just solid as a rock it's not going to go anywhere it looks great and it's an awesome way to add texture and color and design to a relatively simple room like this kitchen well hopefully this video was long enough that you might have learned something new and if you did that's awesome hit the like button don't forget to check out our playlist of all of our a to z videos you can learn all the other trades that we teach on this channel we'll see you then

Channel: Home RenoVision DIY

Views: 726,962

Rating: 4.8728256 out of 5

Keywords: homerenovision, renovision, homerenovisiondiy, jeff thorman, carpentry, finish, tools, how to, diy ideas, diy, diy finish carpentry, diy carpentry, how to finishing carpentry, trim, trimwork, finishcarpentry, filler strips, toe kicks, diy custom window sills, how to trim out old windows, baseboards, quarter rounds, shoe molds, door casings, how to build your own island, how to finish an island, carpenter, baseboard, installing window trim, window trim, interior window trim, window casing

Id: dyDJjPWbRHU

Length: 137min 23sec (8243 seconds)

Published: Sat Oct 03 2020