7 Rustic DIY Remodeling Projects To Transform Your Home

hi I'm Jeff from Ottawa design and build and I'm really excited about this video today we're gonna be covering a lot of really cool design ideas for your home this is rustic design these are materials that are naturally occurring a lot of lumber natural stone and how you can incorporate into finishing off your home so you don't have just bare walls something like this is actually really easy to put together because all the products are available and the market is full of great ideas so stay tuned we're gonna cover countertops live-edge wood putting in stone accent beams all kinds of great stuff coming right at you well in today's video we're gonna show you guys how to make a beam that we can put up in the ceiling to take an old boring room with a vaulted ceiling and turned into something with a lot more rustic cozy feel so welcome to Max's house everybody I'm working down the street and I get this 9-1-1 call and Max is like help me out what I need to let me to hand figuring out this beam project that I'm doing so I've come over to give him a hand and what he's done is he's taken down the old vaulted ceiling and he's prepared a beam that needs to get installed up in this space but he wasn't exactly sure how to get it to work because it's two pieces of wood that he wants to laminate together and he wants to do some accent hardware so we did a little consultation over the phone and he's got everything prepped and ready to go so I'm here to show you how to install it and give max a hand with this house so here we go the wall that's exposed here is got a well this is a header it is a structural number here and then they've got a few plates so what we've got is the design element where he wants to have his beam not too far from the ceiling so that there is still Headroom for them to hang a light off of it later on in the middle of the room so the electrician's gonna come in in a couple of days it's gonna run some pot lights before he closes up so we want to have this installed so that he can do a lead wire over to the middle of the beam so they have the option for a light if they end up going that direction so what we're gonna do is we're just gonna measure out real quick from the existing frame to this plate and our number is twelve and three-quarter inch so what we're gonna do is set it up so our beam is long enough that it can rest on this plate and then we can lift it into position over there to the same height and then attach and on the other side and hopefully the structural Hardware that we've put together to help out and our our faux beam is going to be strong enough to hold this thing in place so with this being what we want to do is have some flexibility so we can level it as we go so on the far side we had that sill plate we're gonna be just fine setting it up there over here where it comes across right into this beam that's the kind of in the way so we're gonna do is we're gonna replace this we're gonna put two more structural points in just to help to keep this straight and carry the weight we don't want any of this bowing overtime because we're gonna be finishing this with some important decorative stone later and then what we have is we have the ability to lift it up in a perfect position and then we can attach it after we have it exactly level instead of building something in advance really difficult to make sure something will be perfectly level this environment without a laser max didn't buy a laser yet so we're working with what we got okay so first of all let's get rid of this of course when you're using a sawzall the strength and the saw blade cutting back and forth is having your material up against this pedal so as long as you're pushing it cuts real easy you saw how I got buckled there it's because when you start pushing it pinches the blade alright so when you're cutting always get to a point where it starts to pinch just poke back on the material so that it isn't binding on the blade it's not causing that action alright now when you're pulling out wood like this it's easy just lift it and twist it and lift it and twist it till it all pops out you don't have to fight whether it starts swinging a hammer okay just make sure your new wall is nice and flush especially if you're going to build me something back again there we go of course whenever you're screwing wood in I always use two you only screw the front the back will start warping everything will start coming apart we're gonna cut our brace to carry the other side of the load now these two beams together just under twelve feet so you know 50 60 pounds it's not that much weight so we only need to put one piece of 2x4 across here to carry it but I'm gonna cut one that's 18 which is exact and one that's 24 so that I can put in this screw and then I can use that like a lever and raise it and lower it while I'm reading the level you'll see in a minute alright so what I've done this have made a mark here roughly the where the height of the beam is I measured it off so it's the same distance at the other end if the house is completely leveled that'll be perfect alright so what I'm going to do is I'm just gonna establish a lever here what the screw alright Oh blooper reel so I can put the beam across it'll rest on this and then we can raise this or lower this while we read the level now that makes more sense right and then once we have it we'll throw this screw in and then I'll put the block that fits inside the wall well nail that in place BAM we'll have a beam so what we have here is we have two pieces of 4x4 that have both been finished with the bar top finish I think it's the same finish we used on that basement project right max max has gone ahead and bought some galvanized structural steel plates and they clean up pretty good he just sanded them down a little bit put some black paint on them strong Simpson Strong Tie screws the black paint there you go that's all you need so what we're gonna do is just put these on all four sides and then we'll lift it up in the air and again since I'm near the end of that wood I burned it in backwards a little bit for everybody who doesn't know what that means I start my screw and then I put the drill in reverse and with downward force I drill it out and what that does is it kind of burns the hole a little bit so that the wood doesn't split let me go forward like it works like a charm all right here we go now we're just gonna fill all these holes with any luck we won't hit any nuts if you do you're gonna have to pre-drill the hole so when it comes to doing structure I've had jobs before where we've used steel and to reinforce wood and generally the engineers have this whole triangle Theory going on so Simpson Strong Tie that makes these devices has a steel plate and they've drilled their holes in this triangular pattern and you'll see steel girders and commercial buildings anything that's really carrying weight they make in a triangle pattern because you can't bend this metal this way when you have screws and a triangle pattern right that's just a bottom line it's not going to happen so in this situation this is gonna be the bottom of our beam so what I've done I maybe should show this is I have rested a couple of screws in the gap okay I'm intentionally trying to create a wedge on what would be the top so that my beam you know a little bit exaggerated but it's going like this so when I do hang it it's gonna be a little bit of settling we're gonna try to create an environment where we can avoid the need for extra ditional support later on that way whatever else max wants to do as far as design and decoration up there he's got flexibility obviously doing wood work that's gonna be hanging in the ceiling is different than the counter or something like that you have a lot more room for error because the details just are not available okay so we're gonna add our one plate to the bottom here the top is still wedged in place of course we're gonna remove our screw shims and then we'll put the last plate on the top of the beam so now our gap wow that's awesome our gap is there so when we put our beam in overtime because of the weight of this thing it'll want to fall down and close this last bracket will keep it from closing and you'll see that this will end up settling right in the perfect location okay so we're coming in contact with other screws now we have to offset this here we go so this plate is lined up just a little offset from the other three on purpose just because we look we were getting some contact with the screws makes sense all right here we go we'll see how strong it is yeah look at that if the weight of that beam with no support on the other side isn't budging then we're gonna be in great shape okay so the only thing left now is for us to get up here put the beam in place I'm gonna need my block that goes in between the frame once I've got it in position I've got my level handy everything is within arm's reach because you only want to do this once and let's just lift this up if we've measured this at all properly it'll just leak right in here okay that's my spot there yeah you used my left hand like as a lever and find that perfect spot [Music] okay you all right now that's the temporary block okay no it's gonna double check once I lift this up and it squares off all real happy oh yeah all right so what we're gonna do we're gonna just toenail this in with the screw of course we'll get all this set up before we get started oh yeah the setting up is just as important as the execution here oh nice and flesh there we go now in this situation you don't want to drive the screw all the way in because you're going on an angle it will lift part of the board out of position so get your screws set as soon as the head comes in contact now that beam is resting on this we get rid of our temporary locking we use our screw I'm gonna come at it from the side here and it catches an angle there we go all we have to do now let's just make sure it's in the middle of the room just get underneath you can eyeball it from both sides if you keep both eyes open you'll see exactly where the center is and then we'll do the same thing with the screws now these aren't holding any weight these screws are just to keep it from sliding left and right more like a set screw so that the beam doesn't go too far into this cavity and fall out the other side and we'll throw two screws on this side and two on the other and we're good to go now you can see this beam here is that just a bit of a twist so we're gonna see one get rid of that twist here there we go so here we are we have our beam in place now the only thing left to do is put the drywall in and then add the accent beams we're gonna have a couple for angle and then one up the middle here we're gonna attach the piece in the middle of structural screws and here's the key when you have something like this hanging in your house there's always that one guy that comes into your house and wants to hang off of it so we better make sure it's gonna carry some weight and by doing that it'll look kind of like this whole house was built around an old existing pre-existing frame which is kind of a cool light hey guys welcome to Jenna and Jason's house we're here we've got two projects on the go we're going to show you both of them Oh perfect thanks Nate that's perfect we are building a custom closet door here I know there's all the rage but the whole barn doors sliding style and if you go to the store you'll see a couple of different options they've got your six family your flat panel your two panel with the arch they've got some that kind of look like they're a barn door but nothing's barn door so what we've done is we're taking that concept and we're doing a how-to video how to make your own door so what we have is some rustic wood that's got the gray stain on it and we bought a full-length mirror and we're gonna frame our own door put a mirror on it so when we're done we're gonna have a sliding barn door with the black hardware but it's gonna be in a rustic gray barn board with the full-size mirror in the door so not just be a door over the closet but it'll be a dressing mirror as well when in doubt design two and one alright so let's get to it no reason to waste any more time alright so basically all we have for building materials is some rustic barn board this is actually not from a barn it's brand-new material it's available at the local building store I'm not sure how long this trend is gonna be around so if you want to do something like this get on it while you can our mirror here is 5 feet by 16 inches and max has conveniently ducked out of the reflection on that shot well you go our hole that we're trying to cover is 33 inches so I could have bought a 34 inch door I could about a 36 inch door but instead I'm gonna build my own they come in 1 by 8 well that's actually almost 8 inches nice usually it's a little shorter if I put that together side by side and picture frame my mirror I'm still not gonna be wide enough so what I'm gonna do is I've ripped a couple of boards down I'm gonna take advantage of the width of this board and I'm gonna interior picture frame it then add my barn board and the next year you frame it as well that way my door is wider than the hall you don't want to have a situation where you're relying on the how you level your door and how you build your house to be perfectly level all the time so you have a sliding door make sure your door is bigger than your hole okay when you close it you can't see what's behind and you don't have the vantage point of things lining up to see all those little errors that's a good idea all you need to do this is basically a drill some mending plates there's a lot of different kinds so find out what you like to work with some screws and some mirror clips nice and simple because I'm picture framing I'm also going to use a few Brad nails so I've got my compressor here but if you have a compressor you could just screw together so keep that in mind we'd like to try to keep our project simple here so let's get busy we're gonna nail and cut this together I'm not gonna take you through this step-by-step but basically you want to make a frame that's just a little bit smaller than your mirror make the backside nice and flush and when you're done building you can lay the mirror on top screw in some mirror clips and you're good to go so the key to this whole project is to measure the size of your mirror which is an actual 16 inches and make sure that the framework that you're working with here interior is less than that we've gone with a 15 and a quarter inch interior measurement you can see so that when my mirror sits on it I've got about three eighths on each side and that'll be perfect to make sure that we never have a problem sliding out it also cuts down how per slice you need to be when building so we're gonna fire in a couple of Brad's just to get everything nice and tight again because all this is rustic I'm not as concerned with how we line it up as much as we are making sure the back is flush so just nice and pressure on the floor so I'm more concerned with how lined up on the inside of this frame okay and there we go we have our frame okay alright so because we're using rustic lumber we do not want to trust the end cut square we're building a door so all of our joints have to be perfectly square make sure you have your table saw locked in position so what we're gonna do is we're going to pre-cut all the ends perfect 90s and that'll help when we're building to make sure everything stays square and you know just solve a lot of pain as we get down the road okay so the first rule of design is it has to function right so the barn door why in the world are they popular it's because Oh we'll tell y'all about this whole Nate's cutting lumber the reason we like barn doors in the design perspective is because we can close the space and separate it from another space and at the same time by sliding it across the wall we remove the need for a swing or something folding door and restricting your access into that space so by having a barn door here we solved the problem of making hay that's ten by ten and making it feel like it's 10 by 12 that's key so if you have a small bedroom putting on one of these doors is awesome for getting you that extra space in your room so now you you have an extra couple feet to mess around with the other thing we're gonna do with our door is we're gonna solve the problem of where are we gonna put our full-length mirror because in this room it would have gone probably on this wall so now we're gonna have a full-length mirror in the door it'll be a dressing mirror and it can slide back and forth killing two birds with one stone the other thing is since we're building ourselves we're saving money the door rail systems about 135 materials here mirror included or about 100 bucks so for 250 you can make your own custom barn door to fit any space it's a lot better than going to the store and buying these things or the kits are up to $500 for something that looks rustic this is rustic and you did it yourself saving money okay so the way that we're gonna build this thing so that we can keep everything exactly square and not have any issues is we're gonna use rely on the fact that we cut this edge 90 and we're just gonna go with flush okay here we're gonna hold the wood together as we come along get up to here and then we're gonna measure what I call eyeball measuring I'm gonna put a pencil mark right off the edge of the wood but the same thickness is my saw blade and I'm gonna tell my son when he cuts this to start cutting here and then slide the wood in until he's eating all of the pencil and then cut the board oh here he is let's let him in on the secret so what I've done is I've got flesh and I'm coming right up to this point so when you're cutting I want you to cut to hit the blade here okay and then slide the wood towards the blade until the last bit of pencil is eaten to just right at that point okay and they finished that cut nice and square and we're gonna use that process the whole time so every time you see these thick pencil marks it's the same kind of cutting style okay yeah beautiful thanks buddy we wanted the back at the door flush so we'll just work off the floor I always be careful when you're nailing on the next to the floor you don't hold your nail or on an angle because you don't want to fire a nail into your finish floor [Music] every eight to ten inches would be plenty remember once we have this assembled we're gonna be using mending plates on the back to hold this all together really nice and tight when I'm picking my wood I like to pick as much unique detail that the wood allows as possible that detail is what makes wood wood I'd hate to eliminate it to try to make it look like something manufactured there you go buddy remember don't panic when you're assembling this this is rough cut lumber there's any knot holes there's gonna be imperfections maybe a little warp you have gaps all of these things work into the overall look so when you're finished you're gonna have something that looks like it was built in a barn remember when they build barns they don't make them perfect they just get them up and get them done so have any little imperfections actually assist you in getting the overall design if you make it too perfect it just kind of looks like it's punched out of a press and you don't want that okay now we're going flesh of course it's helpful to have someone standing on your wood to keep everything pressed to the floor quick temporary fix until we get the mending plates on we just throw in a couple of nails in under 45 just to hold this door together when I go to flip it over so in this particular design just to do a picture frame with the barn board one buddy it wasn't wide enough so we talked about look at options here oh we could add some picture framing trim we ended up needing to trim inside and outside to bias the extra basically four inches that we needed to make this door you might have a door now that has a jam in casings maybe you want to replace it finish it all off the drywall you'll find your hole is 34 inches wide and you might need a custom door made to you can buy doors in 34 and 36 but you sure won't buy a door like this this is unique and ever since the quarter that's a complete screw-up it's kind of like a live edge look here that's been finished but for our purposes the back side is still 7/8 wide I'm gonna use it cuz I love the character that comes in that piece of wood look at that nothing wrong with that long as the outside dimension of what you're building is still working out for you why not use something that otherwise would have been a reject so when you're doing something like this these systems are basically designed for an eight-foot ceiling so if you go with a standard door size and standard ceiling and nice and simple in a basement we have to be careful because we want to cover the hole but not go so high that the hardware is not going to function so we're just taking a look at the instructions and the clearances and maybe having to a last-minute design change so the instructions for the hardware is basically a picture of how to install they had no dimensions no clearances no numbers to work with so what we have to do is take the parts out here's our rail and what we have to do is now attach the math to this so when I hang my door I need clearance that I can come over top of the rail and set my door on it okay so I don't need much so I'm just gonna line this up and a perfect more though like a couple inches to the ceiling just to be just to be safe and here's my hole for attaching on the door so split the difference the height of my door basically 3/4 of an inch from the rail so 3/4 plus 7 so 7 and 3/4 is my clearance at the top of the door now here that takes my door height to this point has a max so I've got about an inch and a half to play with here they bring me down to just above my door so that's nice so now that I'm measuring my door I want to finish off about 83 at the highest 82 would be nice but also I'm going to give myself a one inch clearance off the floor so eighty one and a half becomes 80 two and a half okay so that's where I want my door to finish take an inch off eighty one and a half inches X beside the outside so in this situation the two options get a couple guys give you a hand carry this whole door over to your miter saw and cut your inside minors could be a little tricky or just take the time and the precaution take your hammer it's only Brad nails take this off clean the nails up from the inside cut it and then reinstall and that's what we're gonna do nice and simple be gentle you want to be able to save this for the next time [Music] perfect we want to do is have the same gap it's a beveled mirror so we want to do is have the same gap all the way around we're actually going to use the screws that came in the package so the screws that we're going to use right here came in the package with the mirror clips they're a little long the point they might stick through but because of thickness the mirror clip look like that see that kid won't come through the other side so we're gonna be just fine it's also nice and skinny and it's a Philips baby okay so we just want to put these into their snug doing it over tighten you can risk splitting the plastic then coming through the other side okay so we're just gonna lay out our mending plates we got six this is just a tithe the the basic frame together the hardware for the overhead is going to be attached to the one by eight up the other end so by using mending place to tie this together Brad nails is kind of a temporary fix this will help keep everything nice and tight and square for a long time to come wait don't over screw okay we don't want the screw coming through the other side that is a one inch and the board is kind of a 7/8 that's it [Music] don't drop it right that's the time to have a problem just move it to the side okay so here we go that's the basics for how to build your own custom barn door stay tuned because next week we're gonna have a video show you how to take some of those gorgeous old vintage looking hardware and how to hang it in your room oh yeah and make sure if you haven't subscribed to the channel yet do so we got tons of stuff in the library and there's new videos every week so looking forward to seeing you hit the button hey guys last week we showed you how to build one of these custom barnwood doors with a whole length addressing mirror very cool today we're showing you how to install it all good do's and don'ts so stay tuned this is gonna be quick and fun we always from the beginning of the construction here new we are gonna put a sliding door which is why we don't have any electrical in the wall ok the electrician's intentionally installed it over the side and up here we're covering a steel beam now here's the cool part because we're in a basement and there's a steel beam what we did is we put a 2 by 8 inside that steel beam so that we have the structure necessary to attach the door a lot of barn doors when you look at the hardware you have 2 options you have a rail where the the mounts are adjustable and you can put them anywhere along the wall so you could use a stud finder find out where the wood is on the wall mark it and attach it but a lot of the hardware systems that are out there have fixed rail mounts and you can't adjust so if when you're building something new you're gonna do a barn door you can add the wood in advance otherwise you might find yourself cutting up on your drywall to put some backing in and then patching and repairing and painting again before you hang your barn door a way to get around that as if here let me show you here let's say you wanted to hang a barn door made of this material and you didn't have a header you could attach a board like this first screw this to your frame and then mount on your door over top of it ok that is a way to get around it if you don't want to open your wall just a quick tip there in case you're in the mood okay now we're gonna hang our door we have to take onto a consideration the size the door the gap from underneath the size that we need to get from the door to the rail Plus once this rail is fixed the space that we need in order to lift it up and on to the rail so this kit is awesome I like this style it's a black hard rail overhead rail system so it looks really cool when you're mounting it it's great contrast with the color in the room we also picked up a black gate Hardware handle here's our where we just got our nice little piece of glass tire Nimrod with pre-drilled holes now here's some pretty serious bolt right this is a looks like quarter-inch it's almost big enough to hold your deck to your house and if you don't have wood they gave you a little folks if you're thinking about mounting your door and you're gonna use one of these stop put a piece of wood across the top like I showed you earlier you've got it match something like that to structure or it is just gonna fall down and land on your kid in the middle of the night our door here is eighty one and a half Letta half inch for the bottom that takes us to a total height of eighty two and a half so what we'll do is we'll just make a quick mark here that's where a girl goes to a rail so we'll add the inch and a half for our rail we just have to make sure that when we install our hardware on the door we leave a two inch gap between this and the bottom of the wheel that gives us the space so that we can go up and over and sit on the rail that's a perfect place for the rail position if we leave a two inch gap from the wheel to the door we're adding another half an inch closer to the floor so we better translate that information here add a half an inch okay worst case scenario we're a little bit off and the floors got a slope we're either gonna go a little bit tighter or open up a little bit as we open the door it doesn't really matter if it's a half an inch or an inch off the floor nobody's gonna be crawling around to take a look underneath this is our midpoint basically right here off the story and that's our mark so we're gonna just mark this until we hit dead level all righty okay at this point don't worry about pencil marks on the wall I've intentionally left the second coat of paint for this until after I'm done because I know I'm gonna make a bit of a mess and no big deal so our rail is gonna go here so we're gonna put this on the mark that we made holy cow this is just so much easier you guys just started business so real quick once you got your rail up and you've marked your spot take your legs you want to pre-drill you don't want to try to assemble the hardware until such time but you're done that's the spot there I remember this is where the i-beam is we have that 2 by 8 in there so I can get the wood anywhere I want so we're all alone I got the college kids outside finishing up ready for the deck we're gonna put that screw through this is why we pre-drill a fat part of the base goes against the wall let's read that on lift this into position and don't tighten it all the way okay so now we got them all in place this up okay you want to be careful when you're doing this you don't over tighten it is a lag bolt it's going into wood but it has restriction because of this wheel and then the plate if you over tighten that lag bolt will keep turning inside the wood until it threads it and shreds it and there's nothing left for that bowl to hold on to so when you're tightening it up so does you see movement stop double check okay got another little half that's plenty you can watch this just pay attention to your wheel your finger on it just a little bit a little bit okay the brushless motor in here it's constantly adding and releasing the torque so even in hard situations it's just that sudden hammering of power that drives it through those knots and that thick wood that's why I love this because it'll just power through anything okay so what we're gonna do here I'm gonna put our end stop we're gonna slide it right in here first I realized afterwards that the mount on the door is going to be a couple inches in from the corner and so I need to get that in here and put this back in place again before I hang my door up I'll be doing everything three times good we can set that with the allen key once we get the door in place right now it's perfect the one on the other end is just to stop to keep it from hitting the wall and that'll be fine where it is so what we've got here is we've got our door because we have a custom picture frame with texture there's a higher surface our door hardware isn't designed to be mounted on an uneven surface so we're in Deusen we have two options we can modify the surface and we can modify the hardware unfortunately the kit with the hardware doesn't come with any spacers or anything for doing that so we're gonna modify the door I'm just laying this roughly down the middle here I think there'll be a nice place to hang the door I'm gonna mark both sides of that I'm just gonna take my skill saw this is quick and dirty but it's gonna do the job just fine for people who are comfortable enough using a hand tool like this for doing custom modifications I'll just go through them just removing the safety guard I'm putting my fingers on the bull on the tongue on the plate here so I know my hands out of the way the whole time I'm putting the plate on the door and I'm gonna set the door sort of set the saw into my cutting material and I want to set the deepest part right above my wind nut here so that keeps it as flat as possible and maybe just a little bit behind I'd rather cut a little bit more out of the back than the front and I'm just gonna wash the front to set my death beautiful so I'm working the top of my door two inches so that is the actual six in the corner from here to there that way we can make sure they're both the same I'm gonna mark them the exact center of the hole we found that the hardware that comes with this kit is made traditionally for a standard door that's inserting a quarter inch and a half so the bolts are designed to work that way we had to pack the back of our bolt a couple of washers no big deal there would is only one-inch thick and that gives us the right thickness to pack all this on I'm gonna be tight in the back of the bolt with the channel locks okay and look I'm using them correctly thank God for YouTube are never would have learned how to use channel locks all right now the hanging part on this that's the trick because you have to lift and then set it down that's all there is to it kids here we go rolling barn door so I've got this door centered now on the hole about an inch overhang on each side which is nice and there here's that little bracket we showed earlier we're gonna do is are gonna come up make contact with the real slide this out of the way and take our allen key tighten up the set screws that way when we're done and the door goes to close the motion is going to be just to slide it over till it hits tight and you're not gonna have to worry about standing there trying to adjust it properly so the final step for the door our mounting hardware these little sliding discs now what we want to do is we want to set them up so that this disc once it's attached to the door is sliding off the edge of the trim okay this will maintain that the only point of where is going to be on the baseboard generally speaking the semi gloss paint that we use to paint the trim is more than strong enough to handle the occasional contact and if necessary real easy to touch up down the road so I bought this real fancy carriage channel and that gonna look nice all that black metal and so I just want to go and install it and then look at the package and open this up for you on camera try to be me so I have one machine nut and one label what am I supposed to do with that they appreciate the options but maybe two of each would been better now I got to go back to the store and buy more hardware your that is just ridiculous make sure it I'm going well here we go folks custom made barnwood door with a full-length dressing mirror with accessories to match that was a lot of work but I think it's worth it probably would have been saved a couple of hours if we just bought something off the rack but then you'd have the same door as everyone else in the world so if you like something unique and you like something personal in this particular case we made this one because we have a teenage daughter I think she's 16 there's gonna be spending weekends here and so I just want to make this space a little extra special and here we go [Music] nothing says we love you like custom work in today's video I'm gonna teach you how to install and finish a beautiful live-edge wooden slab as a countertop in your home in today's world we're using a lot of new different materials to finish off of our our kitchens and our bars or our vanities and one of the real popular materials now is the live edge slab of the tree now this one here is two and a half inches and it's nine feet long and it's made of ash and in our part of the world we've had something called the ash borer beetle which has been eating away between the bark and killing these trees off and so this is actually a piece of dead tree that was cut down and planed and turned into this countertop so although we're using a whole lot of wood it's something that wouldn't have a purpose otherwise so we're repurposing a dead tree to make a countertop very cool so the way we install this countertop originally is really quite you know creative came up with a little system using wood dowling just a few bucks at the hardware store and this is seven eighths and so what we did is a bite of a drill bit just a little bit bigger okay so this is fifteen sixteenths and it's just a little bit bigger so what we can do is we pre-drill holes in the wall that we made and on the backside of the countertop fill them both with glue invert it hammered it down with our hands and that's how we installed that with some temporary supports so my system for installing these wooden countertops is very basic you don't need a whole lot of tools or skill what you need is a one piece of one by four something that uses a straight edge in this case we haven't leftover piece of hanging rail from an IKEA kitchen and this works great because it has lots of contour guaranteed to be straight what we're gonna do is just lie these down we're gonna measure this off the back of our counter is almost eight feet long and the lumber is exactly eight feet long so we know that when we're screwing our Dowling in if I line that up with the edge of my counter top I want to have a one inch overlap so I'm just gonna place this where I want it get my spacing and I'm gonna fasten the one by four to my slab here and I've got to leave enough room on the other side for my backsplash all right we're temporarily screwing this in place up against the straightedge to create a nice straight line because it's hardwood it it's good to have an impact driver there we go there now it's straight so we're gonna take our drill bit which is just a little bit bigger than the dowels that we're using my counter is this long my one inch overhang will be two here once we've got this prepped we're gonna be able to cut the countertop off but I don't want dowling too close to the edge so I'm just gonna back it up a little bit we're gonna go somewhere healthy like eight inches from the edge okay I'll mark that spot and I want to have about eight of these so I'm gonna go every 15 inches so what we're gonna do is we'll just Murkoff 15 inches now that we know it's going to work up here 25 60 inch and we're gonna drill a hole through our one by four where we want the dowling to go and then once we start into the hardwood we'll stop and we'll drill that hole out in a minute okay [Music] now we're gonna remove this then we're gonna put this over invert it we will flush with the end knowing that the holes will line up leaving the counter top an inch longer okay I want you to hold it here and here again where the screw is and then I'll manipulate the wood over here into position so then I'm going to manipulate my wood to straight and there we go now while my dad lingo lined up alright so I had my assistant cut me a bunch of these little pieces of the dowling an inch and a quarter and he's using the palm sander round off the edges just to make installation nice and sweet we don't want to have to be fighting to pound all the holes in now an inch and a quarter half of that of course is three quarters of an inch so three quarters of an inch from that tip is the depth that I want to set the base at what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna set this tape just a little bit above 3/4 on my bit so that when I'm drilling it acts like a little marking flag alright and this is just a great way to make sure you're not going too deep and going right through into the courts that would be bad [Music] [Music] okay now we're using this 1 by 4 as our template so it was on the countertop we flipped over and stalled it on her wall and now we're gonna mark into our plate with the drill maybe this is a self fit bit so it sticks out nice and deep we just want to get that center hole now we remove our 1 by 4 and finish drilling our holes again we have the same depth set with the tape the trick here is go a little bit deeper than halfway where the tape line is because we want to make sure that we have room for the glue to be on the top and the bottom and the countertops sit nice and flush this is a software that we're drilling into it's a lot easier there we go so our design is now 95 inches plus an inch overhang on each side which is 97 so we're gonna do as I measured and Mark that and I'm gonna take my 18 in the ninth transfer that information here so we can cut it square and we're gonna cut the slab before we flip it over because we're using a skill saw which cuts from underneath and if we cut this way we're actually cutting through the finish side of the counter that'll keep it from having any splinters and splits and tears if we install it first and then cut it we run the risk of tearing up the top of our counter just before we're trying to finish it and that would be bad and I'm gonna be cutting this tree from the sided that's not falling off so that the saw doesn't run any risk of binding somebody needs to hold the weight but not not let it twist towards me just one is fine [Music] so now we want to do and be generous with our glue fill our hole but one third pole that'll guarantee contact the worst thing that happens here is it squeezes them and you can wipe it up with a red rag it's no such thing as too much in this scenario you could definitely not use enough and put the dowel in the the wall that we built okay as I pose the counter top and get it in position alright where's your name okay lifting this side please very careful and I've got a couple of set screws here now I just grabbed a couple of two by threes put adjustable feet on them and a little quick little mending plate so that I can make some temporary legs and down and just put some weight on that wood okay [Applause] here we go okay just a real quick note once you've got the finish nice and sanded there's no raised green just double-check your edges I mean the edge of the counter is always gonna be dangerous to a certain degree but sometimes and these come out of the planning machine the edges are so sharp that if somebody who was short was the bump into it they wouldn't just bump into it be sharp enough to actually split their skin open try to take care of the tots well that's about all I can show you today we're using this barn table finish by Vera Thane it's a two-part epoxy resin finish which is amazing it gives you that real thick glass look when you're done just like you see in some of the pubs and restaurants you've been to we're gonna wait until this finishes drying before we start working on the surface and we're also going to be installing you know your classic black metal bars for some additional support we're gonna put them about halfway back and bring them to the ground with a threaded rod that way we can adjust it before we screw to the surface and that's gonna work wonderful that'll give me a little peace of mind knowing that people are putting weight on here that they shouldn't be here dancing on the counter no one's gonna have an injury if you'd like to see this finish all you've got to do is click the link at the end of the video you're gonna have an opportunity to go and see the whole project video itself where we're gonna have all the finished pictures and camera angles ensure you can enjoy that as well we're looking forward I'd love to hear your thoughts on this kind of finish put some in the comments below if you've got a better product or experience using something different that you've got a favorite product by all means I'm open to suggestions I'm just using this because this is what's available in my local building store I'm open to suggestions so that's it for today thanks for joining us and again if you enjoyed this video click thumbs up button you have no idea how important it is for that interaction and if you have any questions leave a comment below I like to answer all of them still it'll be about a hundred thousand subs before we have to start getting other people involved to help answer those questions but for now I'd do it on my own and I'm up every night taking care of that so we'll see you next time [Music] alright there are approximately half a billion but ugly fireplaces in this world today and if you're one of those proud owners today we're going to show you how to pimp out your fireplace with some brand new ledgestone so we're here at Max's house today and it's kind of funny because I think he's been renovating more than I have recently he called me up because he's working on this room and he needed some help with his beam and a few other details so I've been kind of quarterbacking his renovation from the phones but today I'm here to give him a hand and we thought we'd make this video if we gonna show you how to pimp out your fireplace like let's face it everybody's got a built out wall and a mantel and the idea of starting from scratch and refacing the entire thing is really overwhelming but you can keep it simple if you just take it back one step to change the surround of the fireplace maybe a paint job on the wood and you're good to go so let's just start from the beginning what do you need in order to do this project well you need cement fiber board or even plywood now I like to cement fiber board better because it bonds better to the cement that we're gonna use so and they run about the same kind of price a little difficult to cut you're gonna want to get a special blade for your saw you can ask the guy your hardware store for help on that but they make a special blade just for this material and it's only 20 bucks so it won't bust the bank but it's important to have the right material here because when you have your stone attached to it in the unlikely chance that you have some extreme vibrations in the ground this kind of thing can separate and if it's ten feet in the air and it'll come crashing down and land on somebody because ever these one of these supports the other it's a little bit dangerous so just bear the warning don't put this right on drywall that's really a bad idea now ledge stone really simple a lot of these products aren't real they are manufactured stone and so they cut really easily constructed max he picked up a little tile wet saw at the hardware store for about a hundred dollars it's about the same price as a rental and the little unit actually has more flex ability so he's able to mitre outside 45 corners here so we're gonna show you that in just a minute but basically what we're doing is we're tapped into this to the cement board it just fits together like a puzzle and you need to use the right amount of cement I'm suggesting for your cement needed half by half inch trowel this might seem like a lot of overkill but it is gonna give you a great bond and it's gonna guarantee that you're gonna have great adhesion you want to have about 100 percent adhesion on the stone just because of the weight of it okay okay so when it comes to I'll blend up we don't discriminate I don't care what the building story you deal with right now I think this product was available to Lowe's right max Lowe's carries Mapai or you can go to your tile supplier I love this morning I've been using it for years it's the ultralights okay now they don't package it the same at this at the Lowe's store they call it a light mortar but where I get it we call it ultra light this stuff has an amazing property it'll carry 40 pounds per square foot of cement on the wall see you slap your stone on there it'll just stay in place so use this kind of thing if you're ever putting tile on a ceiling or something like that as well we're using this because it comes white so is our stone we don't want to risk any dyes that are in a gray cement bleeding through the stone and changing its appearance okay so that's always a consideration as well when you're mixing this you don't want to mix it like regular Smit this should be light and fluffy it's almost kind of like Cool Whip believe it or not it's ridiculous so if you make it really thick like the other like your peanut butter texture like you would a regular cement you're actually wrecking the performance of this product cuz you don't have enough water in it so make sure you read the instructions right say this every time but read the instructions and know how much water to mix in a bag okay and then you'll be good to go typically with ledge stone the manufacturers manufacture two kinds of panels one is the body panel and one of them is an outside corner panel now for whatever reason this manufacturer has three rows and it's got a step like this so you can't you can't use this on an outside corner without cutting it down they don't make an episode corner panel now if they do they sure weren't selling it and the Stover max bought the stuff so he got a great deal that may be why so I'm gonna teach him a trick that even though they sell the outside corners I don't like to buy them in a lot of cases I prefer to miter the outside corner because I think it just gives it an amazing look so I'm gonna show you how to do that today and I'm gonna run max through the process so that he knows how to finish this mantle all by himself and I can get back to work so Max and I were just talking off camera apparently he got this stuff for about six and a half bucks a square foot which is awesome deal because generally ledgestone runs around twelve um which is why I don't like to buy the outside corners because usually that's closer to 15 per square foot for those boxes so here's my system really easy we're gonna place it up against the wall we're gonna make a mark I suggest using a marker when working with stone because it makes a good murk and when you're on the wet saw a pencil just isn't gonna work now the idea here is that is the size of the stone right to this point in the wall basically here and I cuts on a 45 degree angle and you want to get that cut now if you buy a cheap little table saw like we did it'll have more than enough power to deal with this it won't work on porcelain but it'll work on this just fine what you have to do is you have to cut the stone in half and then add the miter joint so this is the line there's your 45 what we're gonna need to do is make our cut right here add about 1/8 to 1/4 and that's my cut so I'm gonna cut that line on the stone then I'm gonna lift the table and run both sides of it through the saw and we'll end up cutting this out and then we can eventually fold it over onto that corner maybe we should just do it and show you so if you end up buying one of these tables instead of trying to rent them which is probably a good idea like why rent when you can buy you're gonna find that this wheel goes on here and the bottom of the wheel goes to the water and comes up with it doesn't have a pump system pumping water onto the cut it's not necessary like I said now typically where the wet saw the wheels turning this way and it's throwing water at you so you will get wet yeah all right so here's my cut line I'm putting the stone upside down on the table all right Sneed be able to see so in if you need to see you're gonna get wet [Music] [Music] whoo okay so now we cut them later lift the table up to 45 and just set it right there and off we go [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] well here we go we have our outside corner we have it mitered it fits together it looks okay it doesn't look amazing and it took us almost 15 minutes and I'm soaking wet so here's the deal here on this channel we try our best to show you how to do things at home a DIY with tools that you already own or things that you can rent or things that are affordable now this saw was affordable however this stone is actual stone it's not it's not a man-made product it's not soft at all it's real chunks of granite and that saw is not powerful enough to cut through and do the 45-degree angle so we're abandoning the miter joint alright just because we can this would actually take a look three days of cutting if that saw holds out and there's a real good chance that we're gonna burn out the motor long before we get there so we're gonna go to a straight cut installation so what we have to do now because we have three levels the way you do this is you go with the middle stone set your thickness with your off cut okay make sure they're they're about the same all right add a little bit of space here for your mud all right and then go down here with your measuring so if that's my mud that's what I like alright what we're gonna do is this bottom one is simple you just cut it straight off okay keep the piece be able to use a problem for another section maybe you'll be able to take it and put it up here alright so we actually did to cut here earlier so this is the piece that would fit in this gap so if this person that this is the one you cut off you can stick it up here there you go then you can just measure straight from this corner to the wall cut it straight and stick it in and everything is good alright so I think that's the way we're gonna have to do this it'll make our life a little bit simpler [Music] [Music] do not buy that saw for use on real stone my god listen QEP I love you but that saw needs a disclaimer to be only used with thin ceramic okay Wow okay so we're mixing our ultra light cement here mm-hmm because this job is so tedious I would suggest mixing small batches at a time just so that you're not wasting your cement once it starts to set up you really don't want to try to force it to perform on the wall it's best to throw it out so you got about a 30 minute working time with this stuff which is plenty if your stones all cut in advance or you have a second person helping you but we're gonna loan do a bunch of cuts first keep your batches small [Music] that is almost perfect I know that sounds scary but it's almost perfect you'll see how much the little powder makes a big difference here [Music] okay it's not stiff enough yet we're getting close though [Applause] [Music] one second here's how you want to test to see if your mud is good stick your blade in and just lift it up it should hold its shape without sagging it's just a little bit thin still just a touch now generally you want the stuff to sit for about ten minutes before you use it and which time it'll get a little stiffer but you can't come back ten minutes after you've mixed it and then so I need a little more powder now you'll have different ingredients in their setting at different times and that's a great way to make the tile job fail here we go now clean the blade we're ready to roll all right so we need a few more minutes to wait till it sets up I just thought I'd show you real quick if I trowel it you see how the ridges in the pail hold their shape all right that's what I'm talking about this stuff is really soupy but it's ultra light and it does work differently than regular cement so you need to respect that this can be really expensive to use if you mix it like the other cement you'll only get half of the yield out of the bag hell of a sudden that becomes $80 a bag quick hurry okay made a mess so the secret for applying cement is just get it on the wall first okay it's a lot like drywall if you've seen our drywall videos you want to keep that edge are not always running up okay there is such a thing is not enough started here now when I'm doing my tile I like to have my lines horizontal it's just a personal preference I don't think it makes a whole lot of difference but for me now the backs of these have all been machined so is very smooth and with a half inch trowel line you don't need to worry about how to set it in the wall you just go again set your depth all right here we go okay and then it's really easy you can just open the box and fly like the wind it's like little Tetris pieces here of course this is the easy program you just spend a lot more time doing your cuts than you will actually putting it on the wall I'm gonna press it into the cement you're not just trying to touch the wall you're trying to embed it alright we'll go like this here's our next piece now when you're doing this side over here you can put this stone first and then just put a couple of screws into the wall underneath it to help carry the weight until the cement dries up you just take the screws out add the next piece put the screws back in as you go nice and easy and of course you can see I've got different stagger lines just so that you don't get this reoccurring pattern of the joint even though it's a natural stone it's a man-made pattern so you don't want to have something going step step step step step step step you break it up cut your stone different sizes and then you'll have great success with the visual appeal this stone is susceptible to expansion and contraction so if everything opens up one day because of the hot weather you'll see that that step stone effect and it'll scream at you this way there's no design visible and everybody will love it since it carries 40 pounds of square foot it's done before it drives great that's not going anywhere we're just going to kind of do that as we go he's gonna get this on and in position double check our thickness over here I want to make sure I got a little bit of an overhang so I got room for cement behind the stone we're good no look at this this stone is not manufactured properly right so here we go put the stone in it's nice and tight but this one is manufactured poorly this joint is bad and it opens up so you see the movement here you split the difference you'll end up causing an extra gap that won't occur somewhere else so what I'm gonna suggest you should just go exist with your marker now you know this one can only be used to fill the sides you have to get rid of this glue joint here right we're gonna take it off and out of the way now this kind of product is gonna come with all kinds of different problems give me bad angles and different size cuts it's not going to fit together perfectly so don't expect it to which is why you want to have the right color Cement them behind in case there's any gaps you see something that's white and gray in the back okay and that comes across looking very natural well there we go this is the basic process get cement on the wall and add stone to it outside of that is just measuring and cutting don't be afraid to finish the entire project in one day you can go as high as you want like I said the cement itself is what's holding the stone to the wall so it's not like a situation where you got to use brick ties or anything like that it's not gonna fall off as you build and like with any natural building product this is all natural pieces of stone here there's nothing manufactured you're gonna get imperfections you're gonna get different things different colors different minerals you know so personally I like to see all that kind of thing I think it's part of what makes it really attractive some people might not like to see how rustic different elements are so make sure you consult with your spouse as you're building to make sure everybody in the room is gonna be happy with the finished result because once this is dry it's dry and then coming up without a fight so not something I'd suggest a guy would do while his wife is away for the weekend this would be a great partnership kind of situation because then they can say I don't like the one with the rust you can pull that out or you know I'd have seen it all so I would suggest for this to rent a saw if you have natural stone keep with the square ends don't worry about the overall presentation it's gonna look beautiful it's all natural stone if you liked this video hit the like button subscribe to the channel if you haven't we've got a ton of awesome projects on there for you to check out feel free to go by and check out our website if you like to do some browsing but particulars we have a website home rental vision diy.com and on there you can check out and search by a different title and can interest that you have and hopefully something there will be good for you and if you have a video suggestion by all means send us a comment and if you have questions or above the products or materials or techniques hit the comments section below we answer those comments every day and so we're glad to be in touch with you that way thanks for joining us [Music] as you can see the project is now finished now it took me four days to do this as opposed to the original one day I thought it was going to take me and as somebody who does not do this for a living just the camera guy and editor I thought there'd be some value and telling you the problems that I ran into doing this project so Jeff had instructed me how to do a couple things however I had neglected to tell him that we're gonna use real stones so hands in the video he saw us doing those 45-degree cuts now those 45-degree cuts although they took a very long time to do that is the proper technique and it would have worked really well on folk break however on that type of stone didn't work that well so we had to abandon that and just go flat on the front and then just go flush on the sides now with this type of stone you can't really cut it on 45 degrees with perfect results reason being it's real stones they've got different densities you've got different minerals thicknesses and the type of saw use is really important so yes you can rent a bigger saw however those bigger saws the tabletop saws don't want a 45 degree angle so it's pretty difficult to do now that little saw does go on a 45 but I just recommend doing straight cuts so if you're doing this type of project the reason we kept the 45-degree cuts in the video just so that people know how to do it if they're using full break now we use real stones so it was a lot more difficult but it is complete now some of the problems I ran into first thing was the cutting it did take a long time however I realized if you pick the type of stone that's not too thick so pick where your cuts are trying to pick stone that isn't as thick so don't just go through box and pick the first BCC pick the thinner pieces it's much easier to cut it's gonna be a lot quicker also face up is much easier because you have a flat surface on the bottom it's easier to cut if you have it upside down it's all wobbly and your cuts aren't gonna be straight so that's something large now another thing I learned is when you're buying this type of stone you're probably going to go and try to get on sale something like that if you do go get on sale which is great save some money however open up all the boxes and look at all your pieces when we opened up these boxes it was almost a month after a bottom half the pieces had damage on them they were 20% off and there was a lot of problems so what I had to do is go and actually return half the boxes so that was a big that I was lucky it was the last day so I was able to do it but make sure you check your materials now the last thing is the saw itself I do recommend that little saw actually it is slow but it does work and that's worth the price if you're gonna rent a Saltzman Goss through ninety dollars a day and it's not necessarily the speed of this I found that was the problem it's the fact you want to measure everything correctly it takes a long time there's a lot of little cuts a lot of angles you want to make sure you get everything correct because if you mess it up it's gonna be expensive now the pieces that come there's no corner pieces as Jeff mentioned but the piece is actually very versatile so you can cut off the ends and then you can use them another Rose there was almost no wasted witness I think I wasted maybe three pieces and that was because some pieces broke or I made a mistake or something so very efficient I still have three or four leftover boxes which I use for another project so I highly recommend doing this it was a great project and if you liked the final result and you want to solve yourself and do this by all means give it a shot and if you like this video make sure you subscribe and like the video helps a lot thanks for watching all right today's video we're gonna show you how to install a shelf floating on your wall and put it right smack dab in the middle so this is a beautiful piece of wood the max picked up one of the local stores you'll see these things popping up all over the place now barn wood exotic wood wood from Europe we're getting a lot of European wood coming over here old rail cars and stuff like that but this is just a big slab of a tree it's been aged so has some lovely color doesn't need any finishing alright we just leave it and let lie but what we want to do is put it on the wall just below our TV here so we can put our sound bar and maybe a couple other pieces of equipment on there it'll work out really well so the secret here this room has been done very um or symmetrical so we do have a centerline and that's what the tape represents that's my center point all I've done is I measure off from the wall I get my mark I want to translate that mark down here to 67 and a half you want to do that I need to know the middle of this board so we're gonna measure this one up at 22 who's my trusty marker here I'm gonna put my mark on my tape just because I'm a visual kind of guy I'm gonna measure that off and I'm gonna slide this to sixty seven and a half is what my mark says from the wall there we go so that is where my shelf is gonna go as far as that location we've already determined that we're gonna have the bottom of our shelf edge right on this decorative line here that makes leveling everything really simple we're going to be going with some simple shelf brackets that have been painted just a matte black just to make things simple here we don't need to have a whole lot going on here as far as support okay what we do want to have it on the wall we need to find the stud so just like in the TV video we're gonna just measure off from our wall plate because we've already determined and if you need to see this trick watch how to install the TV video and we'll show you how to plan your studs we're gonna measure off all the red squares of where the wood is and you'll notice in a quick hurry here that they don't line up with my lumber so I've got one here that's a good spot I got one here which would could work when I have one here no that means I'm gonna have a bracket something like this so once we measured this all that we found that our brackets that are gonna go here and here are not exactly center of our shelf but because our TV is mounted on a bracket where the TV can just what we're gonna do is we're gonna mount the brackets directly into the studs and then we're going to slide our shelf back and forth with the TV and see how close we can get to symmetrical as possible so that it's not that noticeable at the end of the day no matter what you do you got to put hardware into the wall don't use plugs all right I'm gonna just use this to measure my spot so I'm gonna do that's my depth okay we're gonna start with this we're gonna just pre-drill with this bit make sure that we actually have a stud there we are going to make the adjustment here as well good double-check that's what okay so these are structural screw bits that we got and they're brilliant they come with their own head so you don't have to worry about find the right hardware now what we're gonna do now that we know that that's where I what is lining it up it's the right height right just confirm that that's good we're gonna back it out we're gonna remove the tape in that little hole that I made that mark earlier and just make it a little bit less visible okay same thing over here now this ends up being the secret here before we put the rest of our hardware in we just want to do a quick level on this when I'm finding that my right side is a little bit high just by visualizing this I can tell them but it hates too high it's all my bracket come down to here so because we have we're going on level on the visual that's on the print we don't have to use a level here we're just gonna make sure that we're on that line I'm at 8 - hi here we go I just confirm it now okay so because we have a screw on each side we're about the width of the stud you want to go on an angle here okay so what we're gonna do is we're gonna just pull this push the bracken to the wall make sure make sure you're hitting all right here we go so we tried going and straight there's no wood there so it just helps you to find the stud done and done okay here we go now we're gonna take these structural screws we use us room to Simpson Strong Tie not sure what's available in your area but they do make these four joist hangers awesome again they come with the bit for the screw in the box and we just screw from underneath to mount this so it doesn't gonna slide over make sure your screw isn't any longer than the actual substance that you're going through so here we have a screw that's inch in three-quarter sets of two inch slabs so we're gonna be safe [Music] so sometimes guys when you're doing an install like this keeping it simple as best alright don't overthink it just try to find where's my structure and then figure things out from there again this piece of wood we use is actually a little bit longer we've cut it down to size to fit it works great if you need any shelving in your house again find the studs screw to lumber alright that's it for now subscribe to the channel if you haven't and if you have any questions about this sort of thing ask us in the comment section below don't forget to hit the like button thanks a lot [Music] so today we're gonna teach you how to install a herringbone tile on a shower floor before I went and start I've already mapped this out I've taken it to the middle I've gone both directions to check to make sure that this is going to work everything is gonna be awesome the only thing is when we get to the outside of our six by six foot pan we want to continue the slope to the outside of the room now the house is moving a little bit of a slope that way so as we go we're going to change our trowel we're gonna start off nice and small and go to quarter go to 3/8 and then go to 1/2 inch just to make sure that we can use our level and keep our stones slowly sloping out just out of the room just a quick shout out to my company map I love this product carob on this is a non modified cement there's no tape latex in it it's necessary and you know designed for use with the Schluter system basically it's old fashioned cement and it works because of the here's to the plastic end of the tile the regular wall tile cement that you're gonna find out there it's not gonna bond so make sure you use the right stuff and I like this one because it's nice and silky smooth there are other products in the market that a lot more granular I guess everybody likes something a little different but for me it's Keira bond all the way know we can actually install this on her shower floor and because there's so much movement in so many grout lines it'll actually contour and drain the water right to the hole without doing all kinds of crazy cuts this is kind of cool because it's got a texture on it and it also is taken with a lot of different pictures so they all look like an individual piece of wood so what's going on here is this is not like a traditional tile where you have three different designs and it's reoccurring those tiles you have to check the back for an arrow you always have one from base in the same direction it looks stupid this stuff here they all look like individual pieces of wood so I mean I just pulled out one eight real quick and none of these look the same that's nice so we don't have to worry about a pattern emerging on the floor we're just going to take those in a box as they come we're going to use this one for now so all we got to do is we're gonna put this cement all over the floor we want to do it as even as possible now because the floor has contour I'm gonna take the time to back butter each of these tiles which may seem monotonous but I want to make sure it's gonna be perfect [Music] [Music] so here's the advice if you're doing a pattern like this you have to keep your angles tile the tile true you can't follow your outside walls all of my years in construction I've never seen a square room and if you follow the rolls you're bound to have all kinds of issues you can cheat a little bit because the pattern will come along and then we'll get a full tile here so you can be adjusting your grout lines to fill the space a little better the secret is start flesh and then move the tile in both ways create your space [Music] don't press it into the floor there's a time and place for that in a minute yeah that's why we're back buttering so we don't have to add pressure we don't want to fill all the grout lines for listening [Music] now the herringbone design itself is not new we've seen it on decking but traditionally you'll find this in Europe hardwood floors all over Europe I mean you go 150 200 years ago wood was all installed like this and this is where the look came from so when they started making forest and tile that look like wood certainly a pretty natural progression to offer this in that sort of style working with a good quality porcelain and a stone that's this small makes your life pretty easy when it comes to cutting the stone I have a wet saw fabulous tool I rely on it for a lot of projects but in this situation I'm using this little scratch tool nothing fancy because you can just go buy one of these and do this project yourself [Music] [Music] so I mentioned earlier about not pressing this stone in because we're on a condor we want to let the stone follow the contour you don't to manipulate it and you'll end up with a floor that's all wobbly just take your grout float and a little bit of pressure heading towards the dream then will help to guarantee that everything is setting in this cement in the right direction no pounding necessary so over here I've got a couple of spacers up against the wall holding the title and because I don't want to wait until tomorrow to pull them out to do the floor I'm just gonna cut through nice and simple and we'll leave that piece of the tile to support the weight interesting when you're doing this kind of tile is you can get away from you in a quick hurry I'm heading in multiple different directions at the same time and stop we pay attention they treat you tiles and make sure you're doing the pattern right you could change the design not even know it this is all about just being patient because this is porcelain and not ceramic we don't have the challenge that you'll find with ceramic baked tile where they're all different sizes this stuff here is actually it's exactly it's dead-on everything I was exactly the same so I can come at this from all different angles I can go backwards I can fill in this way you go this way I can change direction to come over this way as long as i keeping things relatively square I'll never have an issue okay I'm I'm ripping out the bathroom floor in my house I've got this little Brutus tile cutter must be 810 years ago I don't use it very often but when I get a small tile like this in a small space it's really handy the quality of the tile cutter you know there's a lot of discussion about that there are products out there that are hundreds and thousands of dollars but the reality is it's all in the wheel if you've got a brand-new wheel rims about four or five bucks why does this thing is squaring true you just push create that scratch line now this stone has a weak spot put the peddle their thumbs on then grab the bar two pieces you don't need to spend a thousand dollars for a good cut so just a quick note for people who are trying to be conscious about you know the materials and not having waste and throwing things in the garbage most patterns and designs that exist today cause waste the bigger the stone you put on and the more waste because you're always cutting things that aren't use again in this floor here this is kind of neat because I cut a tile for this piece and the offcut is automatically the right size for that piece so in all of the cuts that we've done so far I haven't had throw a single piece in the garbage and I should remain true for the rest of the floor almost hard to see the factory edge amazing I'm gonna cheaper better condition just a quick that'll stick but everything is rolling towards the drain just like it's supposed to so for all you perfectionists out there and I'm gonna get a comment hey that wasn't level it's not supposed to be we are trying to keep the outside of the room higher than the drain so all the water goes in one spot what we're just demonstrating here is even though we're just putting it all in nice and simple and following the contour of the floor you know still nice and smooth there's not a lot of trip surface here if you go here it's still a bit of a down curve and when I get to the other side of the pan it starts slipping back yeah right now touch the level that's the middle you get to the outside and we'll start sloping up again but here everything's sloping towards the drain as well we're just a quick example here the excluder drain system comes in three different pieces this is just the color that goes in the drain this sits inside that color this is your adjustment plate all of this gets set in cement and it really holds on well okay so what we have to do and I'm just real quick for everybody at home this is a waterproof membrane the drain itself is rather large it comes way out here and so I cement the waterproof membrane over the drain into this membrane so any of the water that goes all the tile goes down this drain that's great but any water because of gravity and gets underneath the tile for whatever reason years from now it'll follow this orange mat leaked out into here and hit this up here this white mesh is actually a secondary drain so the water will be able to get through and into this drain as well what goes under the time so we gotta get some cement in here and it's adjustable you see so you can kind of slide this around a little bit and find the happy place what's your tile so the bumps the bumps you leave at the top because that's what the plate catches so we get our ring you get our ring in there we're gonna stick this on when this is compression fit so now that we have that on we're gonna just fill this up like every other part of the tile surface what we're doing listen because it's just plastic and plastic and then once we get the tile cut around it I'll be able to set this in to like a 30 second range lower than the tile so the draining is gonna be really easy so these drains are adjustable from one inch to almost zero no matter what kind of floor system you're putting in it'll be compatible so we're gonna just trace where I want to do it and that's the key right now I'm marking what I want to come so I end up with a little grid line I'm just gonna leave this one here and settle in my gap and now I can work my next one then I take my two pieces and then just be firm do not cut smooth surface buffing that and I don't know why they just set that up again I like okay let's go cut some stone [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so we're not gonna do it anything different here it's gonna set our stone [Music] [Music] just a hair lower than this stone all you need to do to finish this floor keep on do it we just showed it that covers all the basic tricks remember if you want to learn more just subscribe to our channel Auto I design and build here on YouTube well today is countertop day and in the next video we're gonna show you how to install brand new concrete countertops that's right we're not doing it from mica when I'm doing granite we're not doing course today we're doing concrete and we're doing a mold then pour it in place I've never done this before so we're both going to learn together [Music] so recently in the building industry we have come across this brand new concept of doing concrete countertops in the kitchen so I've seen it in tables in the living room I've seen it another aspect but to do one in the kitchen it's a little bit trickier because you have to keep the dead level they've got to be sealed with food grade quality and it's been a little bit of a trick to find a supplier that one has the right concrete product and the two has the right sealer and so we've been holding off a little bit until everybody's done all their experiments and someone's actually come up with a proven formula and so now we've got this awesome product on the market we have a combination of company that makes great forms and a company makes a good concrete and a great sealer and so now that we have all of these elements together we're comfortable doing a mold and make the countertops in place up till now we've generally you've seen the videos you had to get the melamine and you had to make your own forms and you'd make all the countertops upside down you have to flip them over and wets and blah blah blah credible amount of work now that also comes with a lot of flexibility but if all you're looking for is a simple concrete then this is the way to do it this is Z top it's a company that I found online okay it's just a forward and the idea is you would attach this to the edge of your concrete substructure and then after you're done with your cement fiber board you fill it up and when it's dry you can break this it has a weak spot in the form right here on the bottom corner and so this plastic mold edge actually tears off afterwards and you're left of the beautiful contoured concrete design so before we can get to installing that let's talk substructure because if we're going to be pouring concrete you want to have something that's we're going to be strong enough first of all to carry all the weight it's about 80 pounds a square foot of weight you're going to be transferring so if you're having a large cabinet base you might find it necessary to actually put some plywood down first and then laminate your concrete board to that now this is a Hardiebacker cement fiber board it's brilliant it's half an inch thick very rigid and with their cabinet design it'll be strong enough so for me the first step is to make sure that this is as tight to the wall as I can possibly make it so I actually have to scribe this in remember nothing's ever perfectly straight or square especially when you've got tape joints and outside corner beads involved so what you want to do is you want to lay this up into the corner so in this counter top kit we have a front mold and then we have a back mold and this goes on the back and it'll get screwed down and it'll close that penny cap and a Sinkin system back there and then when I do my tile backsplash the little thin black edge back here will disappear and you'll never see it so this just goes right in and so the back of this walls gonna be nice and sealed but the side is gonna be a problem we have a choice if I put this on the side I can cut that as well but then I also have to tile that wall and in our design in this house we don't have any tile on that side of the wall so what I have to do is scribe it now scribing can be simple have lots of material here so I just hold my marker like this and I just set my finger against the wall and I just pull it forward whatever the contour that wall is now let's translate it onto my cement board so now I can go outside and cut it and slide it right up against the wall nice and tight and then we'll take care of finishing up all of our other measurements so we can cut this exactly where we need it [Music] let's check our scribe there we go oh nice and tight perfect so next thing we have to do take a black marker I use black marker because sometimes I find pencil on cement board a you're running a pencil drive real quick and B sometimes it's not as easy to see especially if you're outside in the sunlight cutting your marker along the lead edge here oh I don't just mark your countertop goes go over here now that you've got scribed same with the other side okay so I'm just gonna flip this over now [Music] now take my straightedge I'm just gonna finish connecting all my dots now in our kitchen design we're gonna have her stove here my stove I need a 30 inch hole traditionally there 29 and 7/8 wide and so since we use our laser level to line up our lines vertical and horizontal here both of these cabinets are level and in the right position and the gap in the back and the gap in the front is exactly the same now this particular kitchen that we're using has n Gables that go in after the floor which arrives tomorrow so we have to add the gap for that and then make sure that we've installed these cabinets so that we have a perfect 30-inch hole so I have a 3/4 inch gap on the other side of this cabinet I'm going to add that over here and that leaves me exactly 30 and 1/8 nothing wrong with having an 8 I'm gonna measure off another 3/4 of an inch and then I'm gonna cut so there and because it's really difficult to measure using the end of a tape I'll put it on the two inch mark and then measure over the end of my three quarter now it's like my strategy [Music] and there's where do cut line okay now we go inside this slide this in perfect now for some of you who've already one step ahead of your own wondering what about the overhang of your counter you need something to cover the drawer plus a little bit that's where the mold comes in it's actually inch and a half so when it goes on it extends the counter a nice three-quarters of an inch past the drawer okay so now we've got our pieces all cut we've got our countertop cut and fit flush to the front and this track here once its installed provides us the overhang that will cover our doors and drawers and so that's perfect and the one in the back will cover up all the gaps of course we scribed right to the wall and we have our overhang that we've got designed for fit flush to our stove maybe before we go any further double-check you know that is perfect that's the thirty the sixteenth so now we're back we got everything cut and ready to go another Semitic fiberboard back cut perfectly we've checked our measurement for our stove and used our square everything's gonna be perfect there so now it's just a matter of attaching these to our cement board and attach the cement board to the cabinets all at the same time we're using the cement board screw okay these things are out of the inch and a quarter and we're just gonna drill right through puts up a little bit of a fight but you'll get used to it and you can see that we're we're actually screwing a mold to the fiber board and then into the cabinet and the screw doesn't actually come out the other side this all works really perfect well yeah I mean if you do end up going out and buy a cement screw that's longer than inch and a quarter I don't know if they even exist on the market but if you do you run the risk poking out the other side when you're reaching into your counter into the drawer is you gonna run the back of hand off of a screw that would be really unpleasant don't fall into the trap and buy yourself quarter-inch cement board it's not gonna be strong enough and it's not the right thickness this mold situation with cabinets if you got something thinner you'd have to block up the countertop first and create an additional layer of strength that's a whole lot of work that's not worth your time and energy by the half-inch and then this all works for right away [Music] [Applause] [Music] so what I've done is I've just flipped together a quick box frame and I've screwed this together on an angle so that after the cement is cured I can remove the screws pop out the blocking and remove the wood really easy without risk chipping anything up and what I'm trying to do here it's create an end form that goes against the stove area that close up the whole contour of this front nosing but from the perspective of where the stove goes in I just wanted this stop I don't want to have to user gonna need this contoured stuff it just seems like a whole lot of extra work and a whole lot extra material that you have to buy what I'm trying to do now set this up everything is nice and level across the back merthin advance for my studs work [Music] okay so taking this box that I've built put my screws on the end just a quick little frame to hold the concrete from going over the edge and create a nice straight edge up against the stove marked in advance for my frame is in the wall and I'm placing my frame higher than it needs to be because this is not a straight edge because it's a 2x4 if I try to go flush I'm gonna end up with an extra bit of contour I'm gonna have to sand back under afterwards anyway and I don't want that so now I'm just gonna take these here a couple of temporary supports and I'm gonna screw all this together make sure that I get as close top and bottom [Music] cool yeah we're ready portions me [Music] [Applause] [Music] I always make sure you vacuum out especially along your forms this is the product we're using from quick read it's a countertop mix and you can see in the picture you just pour it out of a pail in the diagram on this bag actually they've got a little metal mesh or something there that's not necessary if you go with the cement fiber board instead they'll bond together just fine and the trick to that is gonna be before I put the cement in we're gonna take our sponge and we're gonna wet the fiber board that'll get a nice bond like with any product before you mix it read the instructions this is an 80 pound bag which is a little bigger than usual so just want to double-check it should have the exact measurements on here blah-blah-blah-blah mixing instructions here we go somewhere between three point eight and four point liters of water per whole bag there usually is a chart on the bag as well it tells you how many bags you need for a certain amount of square footage so this chart is a little ridiculous because it's very vague but I've got lots so we'll just get started all right so these 80 pound bags require a pretty sizable container to mix in but if you've read the instructions that said between 3.7 and 4.2 liters of water that's a give or take folks we're looking for the right kind of flow ability here generally speaking if you do a half a bag at a time you're gonna get about the same kind of consistency so just want to mix this a little bit wetter than you need to we'll get the half a bag in there we're just using a regular cement mixing paddle and of course my trusty drill that's how the living tar beat out of it with a keeps on going we only have about a 30 minute working time we don't want to spend too much time fooling around [Music] zero ability on that again when you're adding water and mixing concrete it's a lot like what's a lot like pancake batter you put it a little bit everything goes real soft so be careful don't go crazy [Music] good tip to get rid of your lumps your blade is spinning clockwise move your blade counterclockwise and you'll catch everything in the act [Music] that looks like it's blowing pretty good there we go before we begin quick what with the setter this bunch this particular product sets up pretty quick when they mentioned 30 minutes on the bag they weren't kidding so what you want to do is layer it in okay use your cement trowel layer this you kind of get a feeling for how much summit you're gonna need to finish the job just by working with this looks like this area here it's 8 square feet looks like it's going to need but one and a half bags so when you're working on layer in your concrete it's probably best to do a little bit of vibrating get some of the air pockets out before you do a little final coat that way you don't have too much air trying to escape into your final coat when you put your last layer on and you can use a vibration tool like a square edge sander like I've seen on other videos who rubber mallet but because I'm working with concrete board just a finishing hammer this is actually my little stiletto tool that's fine just get underneath you see [Music] [Music] [Music] now when you're mixing this just like the constant battle of mixing it easy flowability versus how much air you're gonna have to contend with okay so this is the ultimate question the more water you mix with the more air you've got a contaminant use lots of water and if you like you're gonna have to do a lot of vibration work just step is self leveling so does a lot of the work for you beautiful thing about this self-leveling you get near the top all you gotta do is make sure it doesn't overflow the bank I have prepared my 30 inch level clean the bottom and sanded it so I can screech this so if I have too much I know how much this a card [Music] so once again now we've got it all screed 'add want to head around vibrate for some air pockets and try to get this nice and smooth well that's pretty much it for the messy part I'm just gonna hang around here from another half an hour or so and continue do a little bit more vibration while this sets up next step is gonna be let it sit overnight and come back at it tomorrow so we'll see you then all right well it has been about three days since we poured this part of the top and you can tell it's nice and light gray now it's gonna be really gorgeous remember how I talked about this edging here how it just snaps off let's see if we can get it there you go and that exposes your concrete now look at that that is beautiful now this edging here this might be really sharp so be careful we're gonna want to sand this back before we get too far ahead of ourselves but there we go you can see there's some pitting no matter how much for that tapping you do you're always gonna have air holes pop up so we're gonna show you a little bit later in the video about the the process for grinding than sanding this down basically it's really simple we take a cup grinder it's a diamond blade that goes on your grinding wheel and you just run it over the surface it takes down all these thick ridges and all the air bubble pump bumps and then we'll make up a slurry which is just a wet mix of the same concrete don't want to be changing the color and then we're gonna just use our hands to force all that back into the holes and when that's dry we can come back with a light sanding just a palm sander and then we're ready to seal but over the last three days we've had our island installed these cabinets came and that is brilliant so while I was waiting for max today I did the template for the countertop and now we have all of our cement fiber board cut this is actually two and a little bit sheets again this is just to contain all of the cement and we have this beautiful sink by blanco here and this one comes with this cutout now here's the here's where you got to get creative this cutout is designed for cutting a hole in a countertop that'll sit up to this edge here okay up to this edge so this is an undermount sink so this is gonna be exposing a little bit of that round edge this is a little too small for our application because what I need to do is I need to cut a hole in this counter that's this size plus the thickness of the wall of that material so what I did is I use this originally and then I just added an extra eighth all the way around you can tell that's a perfect fit okay no because this cabinet is 36 and the sink is 33 the cabinet walls the gable ends are within an inch or so of the end of this sink so most of this weights gonna be transferred from the sink right into the gable ends of the cabinet which is perfectly ideal however because people have always had this propensity to put a lot of weight right here on this area what I want to do is a little something special for this particular counter to add some extra strength we also have a dishwasher here and that's a huge span with nothing in there for support and then another cabinet and so there's a lot of different moving parts here so what we're gonna do is we're going to add some rebar now when you buy your quikrete countertop cement on the picture it shows some metal bars for structural support and that would hold true if you were using a really soft underlay but with the cement board you don't need that but in this case we're not gonna take a chance you can see here we've extended our countertop the past traditional depth this is a bit of an overhang so that people can have a few seats here and so what we want to do is frame this up with rebar to maximize the strength so we don't run the risk of having any accidents so having that in mind I've got a four foot countertop section I'm adding in some 4-foot rebar and this is going to go right on the gable end of that cabinet this is my three foot I'm gonna put one across the sink front and back okay and I'm just really laying that in there where the cabinet is nothing too special about that and then a bunch of two footers and we're gonna just go across them like this and have them extend over the eating area I'm gonna have it come out into the dishwasher so the dishwasher is here and here that'll give a whole arias little nice strength I'm gonna put another one over here there we go okay I think I'm gonna do another one here because I've got a cut joint and I want to kind of seam that together like a stitch and then one more here just to give some strength the middle of that cabinet we'll save the rest of these bars we're gonna add some over there in that window area so for now this is good I'm excited about this I think it's gonna work out great now for those of you might be a little bit familiar with these custom form countertops this comes in an 8 foot piece and this is designed for the sink and what it does is it actually has an adhesive strip okay and you're supposed to put this up against your sink to the height of your molds and so then when you pour your concrete you know you have a nice finished edge well we're gonna show you that on the camera real quick we're not gonna these aren't the actual moles here this is just for demonstration purposes all right so to save you guys time at home today so you don't have to watch another 2 hours of video we're gonna just do it a quick demonstration to show you how this all works it probably would be fine with a 3 foot level here but you get the idea alright so now that you have your molds in place you can take this adhesive strip lift it up to your level and then attach it to your wall all right and you would just run that around and make sure it's exactly where you want it then you're finished countertop is gonna be all nice and level and it just gonna look like a million dollars now when I bopped this mold I bought the half mold kit which is just enough for my job I thought I had bought the little inside it's basically like a little stem a rubber stem that comes through the hole that you drilled for your faucet I thought I bought it I guess I didn't anyway so when I was at the hardware store picking up the rebar I saw this in the concrete section I think it's just a little cap to put on the end of a bar I'm gonna actually drill a hole and I'm gonna stick this up through the hole from underneath and wedge in a piece of 2x4 and that will hold that in place and that'll guarantee I have a nice hole there for putting my faucet in great little trick this is like three bucks just in case you get stuck like I did all right so that covers pretty much every technique you're gonna need will show the cupping and grinding a little bit later on in the video and quick little shout-out to the Lowe's because these folks save my bacon today I went to my traditional supplier to get my concrete countertop mix and they were out so I had to call around did a quick search on the web sure enough these guys got that stuff in stock by the skids so if you're looking to do a concrete countertop job one-stop shopping hit the Lowe's get your cement get your rebar and this stuff here is epoxy coated all right make sure you get that don't just get the other one or it'll start rusting and those Kyle the colors lined up coming through your concrete all right so I'm gonna get back to work and finish pouring on my concrete max me back in both three days and give this lots of time to dry and we'll pull off all of the edges and then we'll show you how to do the cupping and the slurry and the sanding [Music] all right so it has been a couple of days since we've put all of our countertops down you can see in the back we started tiling if you haven't seen that video check it out all right this stuff here is interesting we're using the countertop mix from quikrete available your local building store I believe it's of Lowe's that carries this product so if you're looking at a Home Depot I think you're gonna be disappointed because they don't carry the quikrete line anyway we had an issue because after all of this was done we found that this one area here had a bit of a sag to it it just didn't feel the same the the product set so fast that you really gotta you gotta be on your a-game it's probably best to have two people doing this one mixing and one working okay if you do it all by yourself you got to go in layers and in this particular case we didn't get the layer filled just the way we wanted to and there was so much detail and and work trying to control the cement around the sink we found that the product that we were using for the forum for the sink just wasn't up to the task since such a square edge so it was a little disappointing there that was kind of frustrating and now I've got some repair work to do and I've already done a little bit of it I had some fill up in here and I had a big air bubble over here I had to fill so what I've used is I just went and grabbed some of this fast concrete repair okay no I tried to repair this using the same concrete countertop mix but you can see I've done some grinding and sanding here and you'll see that there are little aggregates in this mix okay that make it impossible to do a fill coat it was just way too thick it's it's it's not something you can travel and work with it's designed to flow and fill and that's it so I was against my better judgement to mix products because I wasn't sure how that was gonna finish with the sealer but I have no choice I can't leave this huge gap so we're gonna use the fast-setting concrete here and hopefully it's not going to show too bad but I don't have a choice so like I said this sets up in just a couple of minutes you want to be really careful when you're mixing this not to put in too much water okay and at the same time don't be so careful that it takes you forever to get this mix made because it'll finish setting up before you're done mixing it so work in small amounts there we go we're getting a bit more of a soup now okay so if you put too much water in your mix that's fine just be patient you want to have the area where you're gonna be patching nice and wet okay really sponge this down so it bonds well okay you can see the overall finish there it's gonna be not too bad I am gonna try to clean up that edge with this person mint as well it's just gonna take a lot of tedious work now this is gonna be like self leveling [Music] and out of control okay so I want to work it to the edge at the same time give it some resistance here so that is setting up that quick chunk here out of my way okay you see starting this is setting up here there no I got the opportunity now I can try with you soon [Music] that's almost perfect right now miss Queen there you go this kind of attention to detail is what's gonna make or break this countertop job so you can't afford to be lazy okay so it takes a lot of the sanding work out so we're just gonna whisk what sponge this it a little bit now we got it filled we're gonna stop while we're ahead yeah I would rather do this three or four times until it's perfect then give it a bad product or something I'm just not happy with so there we go beautiful I'm gonna love that this goes in the garbage this is still running enough I can use it I've done the ones behind me and I've done the island so far but I've saved the one in the window so that we can get this on film can't have max in the room film in this when we're actually sanding but we can have them film through the glass so that's what we're gonna do let's talk about tools first this is called a cup grinding wheel okay it's basically a diamond-tipped wheel and it goes right on your grinder they come in different sizes depending on your grinder size and they just spin on once you get it where you want it so you just hold down get that on there nice and tight after we've cut grinded we're gonna be using a regular orbital sander this one has a dust collector and a filter which is helpful you have to empty this frequently okay so keep that in mind and then we're using 40 grit sandpaper to start we'll work our way down to 80 120 and then 220 to finish of course the secret when you're putting these on line up the holes so that the vacuum part of this sander actually will work then that to be perfect just close so that the actual vacuum can suck the dust away and of course like I always use on my videos safety glasses and a mask god help us if you are not wearing safety glasses and a mask for this then you are crazy this is one of these jobs where you need to have protection this is gonna be messy I'm gonna be using this water bottle just to wet it down a little bit but I don't want to do this soaking wet I'm inside the house and everything within 20 30 feet is gonna be covered in wet blotches of cement if I don't do a dry grind so what I can do is I can control the dust so we set up a big plastic wall to separate this room from the rest of the house and we also have our high-power fan with our ductwork and I was blowing out all kinds of air out of this area and that creates a negative air pressure so most of the dust that's gonna be collected here will be evacuated out of that room within about two to three minutes that means I've got about a five to six minute working time and then I gotta take a break and let all the dust get out of here so it's a messy job this is a really good mask it's got a dent in the metal piece that goes around the nose you get a good snug fit now we're off to the races so here we are we got our negative air set up this particular countertop we mixed a little bit thicker than the last one so it has the benefit of not having a lot of air bubbles but it didn't flow as well so it's gonna have a lot more grinding so whatever you lose by making it thin as far as making it settle easy you get it to fix all the pinholes and in this situation if you make it nice and thick so you don't get all the air bubbles then you got to grind the hell out of it figure that one out [Music] one of the reasons I love Murr wearing masks we want to clean up our edges and any of these bumps we don't want to have to sand the ridge oh so we grind it out you'll be surprised how fast this works and how fast it gets dirty here we go [Music] [Music] you're gonna go now the goal here is just take all their edges up so that we can sand it mission accomplished we let the clear clean up a little bit I'll vacuum this off and then we'll get on with the sand each level of grit that you use and should move back and forth in opposite directions so at the forty I'm going to go opposite of the grinder and then with the ad I'll go office of the authority and so on this helps to guarantee you're not leaving a big group somewhere in the ground here [Music] [Music] now you'll notice the kind of look that I'm going for here is very rustic I am NOT trying to sand this down like it's wood I'm not trying to make sure that there are no imperfections I kind of want the imperfections [Music] we just don't want to leave any sand or Martin just a couple passes with these type of paper does it job all right now here we go I'm just gonna wet down the top of the counter now so you can see that little bit of effort how smooth that is now compared to the section here that we never did I don't know if the camera picks that up no okay this is really rough and this is really smooth gives me a chance to have a look and see what its gonna look like when it's sealed if I'm not happy with something back to the drawing board I can make a mark and go back and start cutting and grinding and sanding all over again if necessary but just make sure you're gonna be happy with your finished product before you seal it I got a couple of low spots here that I want to actually go back to the 40 on in Sando there you go slow and steady wins the race well there we go that's a real dusty inside so we're coming out here to sign off if you're interested to see how that looks when it's all finished and sealed then just wait a few weeks we're gonna have the project video come out and all of the details in the ceiling and what that looks like done will be in there there'll be a link at the end of this video I'm sure it's the project video right max we usually do that fantastic and once again of course hit the like button and if you haven't subscribed to our channel you should because the world is watching this channel I don't know why they want to watch this channel but they are and you don't want to miss out so hit the button to subscribe we'll see you again next time so the choice that we're using for sealing our countertop is most Evo's choice gold this is a penetrating sealer so if you're looking up with your all the information online about concrete countertops you'll see there's a lot of different options with sealing I like this one because this is food grade all right so that means that it means what it means it's safe no one's gonna get sick in this kitchen so basically your job is just apply it and then remove it that's how simple this is so just pour on a little bit use your sponge and just wipe it in okay and that's it and then just remove any excess right away and just by wiping across the surface that's how you seal concrete countertops if your sealer if you don't like the way it looks or the way it feels you want to have another coat you can but with penetrating sealer generally two coats is all you're gonna do don't fall like into those some videos I've seen online they do ten coats of sealer that's a different kind of sealer it's not a penetrating sealer and that product they're trying to get their finished result what we're using for a finished result is just wax all right this is just a beeswax is for finishing concrete countertops and we're just gonna Dulli something out here on the counter all right I'll show you now I like to use a bread flute when I'm installing it get it nice and tight on there and get that white film means you've got more than enough there okay and then just roll it off [Music] there you go now your beeswax is on there just make sure you don't have any residues run a dry cloth over it if you see any white spots like that just buff it in a little bit here we go beeswax apply now your sealed your finish is protected you don't have to worry about coffee and red wine and all that sort of thing this will take care of your countertop can protect it for years to come now the sealer itself is good for about 15 the beeswax is something you might want to apply every six months to a year depending on the kind of you should get so a jar like this runs about twenty bucks I'm gonna leave one behind for the client and that's about all you need to know all right so thanks for joining this Center tour how to make countertops remember you're upfront cost for materials isn't all that dramatic but this is a blood sweat and tears kind of process but if you love this kind of real earthy industrial look this is a great alternative to natural stone remember if you haven't subscribed to our channel we're full of crazy ideas on how to do things yourself and help you around your house so hit the subscribe button below and like the video if you liked it I'd love to hear from you in the comments see you next time guys [Music] today's video we're going to show you how to install some floating wooden shelves on finished aisle how hot is that so today in the building world there's a craze going on with using big slab lumber this is a two and a quarter and you can go to the building stores and you'll see there's a display they've got this thick lumber and they've got some live edge on it and they're selling table legs and the idea is you can glue and screw these things together to make a great big table with a nice live edge all the way around and they come pre-drilled with some pocket screws can you see those okay nice fabulous now I had a crazy idea I wanted to mount some floating shelves on this wall and I didn't want to do the traditional you know Dowling and that sort of thing because it's very very difficult to be precise with Dowling and I thought wow what a great idea what if we just drill the hole and use these new structural screws now these bad boys here are I think they're the headlock program timber lock yeah these black screws here timber lock screws and they're actually been engineered and designed to be the same strength as a 3/8 galvanized bolt well that's really strong we was that for structural lumber when we're building decks so if I can get a couple of these into this right into the framework of the wall I'm confident that this is gonna hold the shelf up because let's be honest here when you're installing kitchen cabinets you're gonna get four little screws that are holding up the weight of all that cabinet and all your dishes so all the decorative shelf like this needs maybe maybe a hundred or 200 pounds these bad boys are rated for a thousand pounds each so if you have a climber in your family and then you can be confident that are not going to fall off with the Shelf the funny thing is here max came into the room and he goes oh you have a blueprint and a great joke by the way but what I did is I just taped out just visually so I could see what the finished hood fan and shelves would look like and I've just kind of scaled things back until I liked it aesthetically now this tape is based on the laser level line that we put on there so we're gonna have a couple of different dimensions and this gives me the ability to mark my studs on the tape put down my numbers and keep all of my math on that wall without affecting the tile so the basic tools that we need for this job is like you can expect we need the timber lock screw we're of course going to need some plastic wood I like using this stuff because it dries quick and I can get on to my sanding right away I need a black marker of course they sell these of the building store by Milwaukee and you're gonna need one of these now this isn't necessarily available in your building stores you might have to do a little hunting go to a tile supply store most of these places sell stuff like this this bit is actually $85 as top of the line there are other options available in the 30 dollar range and if your tile is ceramic it'll do just fine I bought this one because I use this for going through ceramic and porcelain when I'm doing my shower fixtures of course we're gonna need a drill impact driver put in the screws and for this bit just a regular VSR drill and I'll take it off hammer functional so I don't drive everybody crazy now I've already checked before I built the wall and affect the cover plate off and the framing for this wall is right beside on the right side of this plate and I know that my Center mark is actually just to the right of the plate cover which is right here so I can use that as my marking that is where my framing is and then I can measure off my 16s for the frame on this wall because that is the way we frame walls in North America every 16 inches all right and you use a black marker on the tape to mark the center of the stud and then I'm going to mark from the wall to the line and I'm gonna put my measurements on here so I got a seven and of course plus 16 is 23 from there I've taken my slab with the pre-drilled holes and I've already cut this one down what did I do this I just marked the center line here and I measured back seven inches made a mark and cut the slab and there's my 23 and there's my finished mark I want to come to 39 just right here like the tape shows so now that I've got it all laid out and I can put it up here and confirm that I'm lined up I like that I've got to drill holes now let's just take a quick look at what it looks like when this comes through the other side of the wood so we have an idea where the pocket screw is going to come in right smack-dab in the middle that is awesome so because you want a clean line when you're finished which is why I titled it first I actually want my bottom edge of the wood to just be touching the top of this tile okay so let's translate that information two inch piece of wood from the bottom of that tile it goes just to the top of the tape so what I want to do is I want to mark my centerline okay so one inch off that tile that's my centerline and the reason I want to do that is I don't want to have a gap appearing here whereas tile and then grow it in the tile new grout because the wood isn't necessarily going to perfectly straight so we'll drop it down just a hair and so then we're gonna want that to be the center of our hole take another eighth off for good measure now this particular hole saw has a pilot drill bit as well so what I can do is I can just line that up on my tape mark and then start drilling through and you'll see that it was a little wobbly after the pilot drill holes started but that's the point of this tip this pilot hold keeps your drill bit from rocking around to wild and so once I get these holes started then I'll take out my pilot hole and then I'll drill all the way through this bit comes with an allen key that I can use to reverse my set screw and pull out my serger now we'll just finish off these holes [Music] yep there's definitely one in there make sure you clean this out as you go once it gets jammed up it's really hard to clean up I like to just do a little rocking lotion as I'm drilling like really reduces the amount of contact that I have with the bit so doesn't overheat [Music] [Music] so now we're done with this tape you can see following that procedure you will crack your grout lines or anything it's kind of boat speed and pressure here it's just about letting the bit do the job and you'll walk away from that unscathed so I'm gonna set up my laser across the room and just drop that laser line down until it's just on the top of that tile in case you're wondering the outside corner beads of this wall we're done with the metal corner bead and that laser has the magnetic lock on the back so I can put that on any corner in the house as long as it's got a metal corner bead it just sticks there on the wall by itself won't even scratch the paint so I'm choosing to install it with these pocket hole screws up because once this is installed most people aren't gonna see the top of the shelf they're only gonna see the bottom all right so I want to make sure that this is gonna be out of that hot line of sight now we've got to do a little bit of trial and error here and I'm thinking I want to just get my wood underneath my screws I'll start here right on that laser line okay and then drive my bed home [Music] just throw in our bed extender here I'm gonna drive it all the way so just because you got a great idea doesn't mean it's always gonna work this screw actually hit our stud just a little off-center and as it was driving through its the wood split and the big chunk tore off so our screw is no it's just spinning on the wall so what I have to do now is because I'm gonna be using wood filler and sanding anyway I don't have a choice but to line up my hole do I have a new screws through that wall on the angle to hit the far side of the stud and give it a little bit of a lift because it pulled off level okay back to level so for the purpose of the video our way in the last couple of steps but I would sure anybody willing to tackle this kind of a project at home is probably more than capable of finishing their wood but really all it comes down to it's mixing up a little bit of your plastic wood here this stuff is really amazing because it doesn't shrink and it smells awesome all right of course we're just gonna put that in and press it in we don't have a lot of residue because although it's sandable anyone who's ever worked with this stuff before knows no it's not that sandable it'll give you a bit of a fight we'll let that set up a little bit and it'll come back and fill it up somewhere later so there you go I'm not going to waste all your time sanding and finishing the wood we're just going to use a straight-up very thin finish on this which would be really easy to maintain and keep the dust from collecting if you want to see how this looks when it's all done check out the video links at the end of this video because we're gonna have the reveal for the whole project you'll see the kitchen and the custom-made hood fan all those elements make sure if you haven't check out the concrete countertop video it's very cool and subscribe if you haven't subscribed I would like everybody to hit the like button on this video because this is a great project for anybody to do at home so thanks for watching this design rustic the video don't forget to check out all of our other A to Z videos we've got a playlist with some great projects in there for you subscribe to the channel if you haven't lied to have you along for the ride don't forget the like button but most importantly is comment want to get your feedback on this tell us about some of your rustic ideas things that make your house very unique alright so thanks again now we got to do is to sit back and watch a little bit of YouTube and our new rustic living room wait a minute that's the wrong channel now that's more like it [Music] you

Channel: Home RenoVision DIY

Views: 828,757

Rating: 4.8209352 out of 5

Keywords: jeff thorman, home reno, renovation, bathroom, do it yourself, diy, how to, tutorial, home reno vision, home renovision, renovision, contractor, renovate, accent beam, rustic, barn board, barnboard, ledge stone, fireplace stone, sliding door, floating shelves, pine, herringbone tile, reality renovision, diy renovations, jeff thorman renovations, home renovation diy, ledge stone fireplace, ledge stone application, ledgestone installation, renovision diy

Id: b5W-hMIxGVI

Length: 153min 2sec (9182 seconds)

Published: Sat Jan 13 2018