How To Repair Old Concrete| Project From Beginning To End | DIY Concrete Resurfacing Repair Tutorial

hey everyone tyler with lagardi products and i'm going to show you what our concrete repair kits can do for you if your concrete looks like this spalling pitting flaking simply deteriorate in front of your eyes don't replace it resurface it and make it look brand new just like this before we get started on today's video we wanted to let you know that we're on our way to 800 000 subscribers and we've noticed that a huge percentage of you guys that watch our videos every week are not subscribed to our channel it only takes seconds out of your day to press that subscribe button especially if you enjoy this content we launch videos every week so you can get notified every time there's a new one thanks for all your support we hope you enjoy the video okay so we're getting ready to prepare the concrete for our 250 square foot concrete repair kit now the first thing we want to do before we start pressure washing is we want to move everything away from the slab and the area that we're going to coat so if this was a patio and we had grass you know if that gra if this grass was butting right up against the patio we would actually want to edge this and just create a little bit of a gap there you know a little half inch to an inch gap so that the overlay will actually flow into the grass and then when the grass grows back up it looks like a brand new slab we don't have any grass growing but we do have these rocks so what we're going to do is just move the rocks out from this this patio a few inches so so something like that right we're just going to go along we're going to move them out a couple inches once the once the concrete has been coated we're going to move the rocks back it'll look like a brand new slab but we always want to create a little bit of space with whatever the ground cover is right next to it and then that's about it we just have rocks butting up to this concrete and then the house so we're going to just simply tape this stuff off we don't have to worry about any of this but we want to do this before we start pressure washing so that we're not shooting rocks and stuff up in the air and trying to move them with a pressure washer so i'm going to continue to move this rock and then we'll start pressure washing so i'll kind of walk through the pressure washing process what we want to do is we want to remove any loose chunks of cement right it's kind of hard to tell in some of these but you'll see once they start hitting it with that pressure washer getting real close like look right here we got one here that's gonna pop up just popped up my finger so this is what we're trying to get rid of we're trying to get anything that's loose popped up chipped out so i'm going to run real close we're going to be using a 4200 psi pressure washer that's going to do the best job if you get a 36 you know that's going to work as well just might take a little longer so once i get all the the loose concrete the spalling the pitting out that's going to flake off later on we want to remove all that i'm going to take this little uh this little wand here it's going to attach to our pressure washer and then i'm going to go through and clean the whole pad with that that's going to go a lot faster than me trying to just hit every square inch with just the pressure washer tip so i'll get the pressure washer started throwing some safety glasses and then you'll kind of see what it looks like when all this stuff starts chipping out a few things i want to point out before we move on to just cleaning the slab is notice how close i held that tip to the concrete when i was trying to knock this falling out now granted this has been here for a long time so a lot of those loose spots have already come up but you saw some chip up even in the joint over there we want to make sure we get all those up so that pressure washer tips mainly for removing loose chunks of concrete and then we use that cleaning uh wand to actually clean the concrete and this is what it looks like i pressure wash the line so trying to pressure wash your slab with the tip real close would take a long time that's why those pressure washer shrouds that we're going to show you now are vital for cleaning large areas you can get those at home depot or you can even usually get those in a rental place for larger projects again this wouldn't take very long cleaning it but we're going to show you how much faster those dust shrouds are going to work those those pressure washer shrouds will so i'll get that set up and then show you [Music] now that the the concrete's clean everywhere all i need to go around and hit close to the brick where that that pressure shroud pressure washer shroud didn't hit you can kind of see some lines here where it cleaned it so this is clean this is still kind of dirty we want to address those so i'm just going to go around with the normal pressure washer tip hit those spots and then we're going to blow everything off we want to get this clean we don't want you know dirty water um kind of muddy water sitting on and drying out because that's just going to create a bond breaker so we want to make sure we get it all off nice and clean and then this is basically ready to start coating and one last thing once once you guys have a section cleaned or your project make sure people aren't walking on it right tracking dust from the yard or off the road just just try to keep it as clean as you can you know if stuff blows on it like leaves debris stuff like that just blow it off before you start coating but you definitely don't want to get it dirty after you've got it clean we're going to go over taping everything off we want to make sure anywhere that we don't want that overlay to touch is taped off plasticed off papered off however you want to do it we've already started the wood here or the the brick here the stones and again i want to talk about the tape so blue tape's not going to stick as well to a sealed surface this rough texture so we're using yellow tape anyway anytime you can get away with blue tape use that it's going to make it a lot easier to pull later it's not going to leave sticky residue behind so we like to use blue tape on like metal like the door threshold there that we did the blue tape on always use blue tape on stuff like that anywhere you're going to be stepping on it try to use the blue tape as long as it's sticking good if the blue tape's not sticking good revert to the yellow tape that's gonna stick to rough surfaces pour surfaces better so if you come over here you can see tim he's just taping off the remaining of our our stone here and notice how he's taping it high you never want to tape to the bottom of an edge when you're going to be doing the coatings because they're going to wind up locking the tape in so even if these stones were going to the floor like right here it's touching the ground but notice he taped high still that way when we're done coating we pull this tape it's going to come off easy if he would tape to the bottom here overlay is going to lock that tape in and you're going to have to cut this stuff out it's really time consuming when you do that so always make sure you're taping high even if you have something hitting the floor as long as you have a straight line and it's clean it's going to look really nice save you a lot of time when you're pulling that tape so you just you really want to walk around make sure you're getting everything taped off like we have the the drain here we want to we want to make sure we tape that off and taping off around radius is relatively simple if you do it right i'll kind of show you what i would do when i tape these i'll get it started and then i just kind of mold that around as i go around that edge so you just kind of keep turning it turning it turning it and then when you get all done you just flatten it off so that's kind of how you tape around a circle real simple way to do that and again make sure you're pressing your tape down good we want to get a good nice and tight seal so as you guys are taping and getting down on the floor you might notice stuff like chunks maybe you missed when you guys were pressure washing we have a chunk of i want to say it's thin set maybe from the these these uh bricks we want to get this up and then obviously we want to clean those chunks off so we want to get any of those high spots off the pad chipped up make sure it's clean so we're just walking around making sure we got the door threshold taped off all the stones taped off and then now we want to tape off this rain gutter drain because anything maybe i'll touch the trowel on it right we'll get stuff on it now we can wipe that off with a rag if we do but it's just easiest to tape anything off that you do not want overlay to get on now remember blue tape's your best friend for pulling up easy later not leaving sticky residue behind so try to use this as much as you can as long as you're getting a good seal to it perfect so now this is pretty much ready to go so we're going to come out here we're going to be stopping at this border here so i need to tape this border off because we're only coating this front entry and since this mastic is so tore up here we're just going to coat and it's really low so the material is going to fill in there so if you have mastic and stuff that's just deteriorated chipped out sunken down really low don't worry about trying to tape that off just coat it we just want to make sure it's not high up flush with the pad we would want to tape it off then i mean right here it's pretty much gone anyways notice how i'm taping kind of on the top edge of this other pad and since it's exposed aggregate and textured i want to go around and push everything down get the best seal that we can alright guys so we have everything taped ready to go next thing we're going to do is we'll show you how to set up the mixing station and then we'll start with that first coat so we're going to mix up the first coat the fill coat of the concrete repair kit so what you're going to need for this coat and this is a 250 square foot kit so you're going to need one bag the the half or two and a half gallons of liquid polymer which will be half of a five gallon bucket and then a liquid modifier and this liquid modifier is half full compared to the full one that we're going to be splitting in half for the next two coats so this is all you need for this we're going to pour two and a half gallons of liquid polymer in here add the liquid modifier and then mix it up with one bag pretty simple setup we recommend a low rpm drill with this type of kind of mixing paddle you can get this at lowe's or home depot in like the tile section and then you'll see tyler's going to be just using like a standard rigid trowel like they would use for sheetrock and putting mud on walls and then we have a paint brush just in case we need it so first thing we want to do is just mix this up in case there's any settled polymer in it now notice i have a big a big container we got this at lowe's as well anything that's really flat on the bottom flat on the sides even a small brute garbage can will work but for the 250 square foot kit when you're mixing up an entire bag it won't quite fit in a five-gallon bucket you can't mix it thoroughly enough so you're constantly splashing it so just just in case you're wondering it's really hard to mix this kit in a five gallon bucket that's why we have a slightly bigger container now i can actually rinse this out and use it as a container to pour into all right now that i have this in here we're just going to blend it up slowly we will add the liquid modifier now the most vital part of this is you want the drill running while somebody is dumping in the bag of concrete overlay you don't want to just dump in the entire bag and have a bunch of big clumps and everything just sitting on the bottom because you may need to scrape the bottom so while he's dumping it in i'm going to be running this drill at fairly at a fairly fast rpm it's also the reason why we're outside there's a slight breeze out here if there wasn't any type of a breeze we would definitely have respirator masks on we recommend wearing respirator masks as well yeah notice tyler's just going to grab the edge grab the side and just tear it open you can use a razor too scissors but if you just tear it like that it's pretty quick [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] okay now notice he he dumped in the whole bag so it won't be as dusty anymore but now i want to mix it for about two or three more minutes i don't want any chunks i want it to be like a like a thin cake batter this is how you mix every step right now we're doing the fill coat but steps one two three you mix them all the exact same way so okay now that we've got this mixed up tyler and i are just going to pick this up and dump it into two buckets and rinse this out all right so tim's got the product mixed up for me so we're basically ready to go everything's taped off we went over that with you guys now the next thing that's very very crucial is we want to hydrate anywhere we're going to put this product down and what i mean by hydrate is we're just going to spray water on the concrete and that's going to soak in and we want to kind of satisfy that concrete so it's not soaking all the moisture out of our overlay so what i like to do we kind of call it pre-hydrate so i'm going to go around everywhere we're going to coat i'm just going to kind of start pre-hydrating that and you'll see how this is just soaking right in because this slab is very porous it's kind of hot out and so what i'm doing here is i'm just filling in the exposed aggregate border we don't really have any spalling pits chunks missing out here so i don't necessarily need to do the the first coat on this now when we get over to this side this is really where all the main chunks pitting spalling has happened so the concrete's really deteriorated so this is where we'll be scratch coating the whole pads including the exposed border so i'm going to start pre-hydrating this before i even start and we're just trying to satisfy this slab to where when we put our overlay on it it's not soaking all the moisture out and you can see i just sprayed this and it's almost dry again so if we put that overlay on this concrete without hydrating with the water it's going to give you no working time it's going to get really thick basically make it impossible to to use so always good to pre-hydrate before you even start and then also while we're applying it we're going to be adding water periodically as well so now you can see the moisture the water we're spraying not getting sucked out as fast this is what we call pre-hydrating now we recommend doing these overlays when it's cooler out maybe the morning towards the evening when it's really hot uh middle parts of the day it's going to take away your working time so just keep that in mind make sure you guys are doing this when it's cooler out obviously being in the shade helps as well we think it's like 90 degrees where we're at so we're going to have to make sure we are hydrating really really well all right so i got the section we'll be scratching the whole concrete pad with that's pre-hydrated now as you can see it's got it's kind of wet looking and then i pre-hydrated just the borders on these borders since again i don't need to coat out here i'm just going to use a pool trowel you can get these at home depot lowe's and we're just going to try to smooth these off and then when i'm done i'm going to come back and scrape the excess up here so we don't have to sand any of those ridges down and then we'll just get start i'll show you what it looks like if this slab where i'm coating starts to dry out on me i'll just mist a little bit more water so i'll just start out pouring some product down here and since we have the rocks moved away i'm not worried about it going off the edge so that's all i'm looking for that's relatively filling in all those low spots by the time we're done doing our multiple coats you're not going to really notice any of that and it's good to have enough people helping you especially when you get to where you're doing the actual pads this is kind of just like coating a border ah so i can go back add a little more in these spots that look really chunky still i mean if you notice i'm not applying pressure i'm almost kind of being really light just kind of letting it self level itself and now i'm going to scrape up this edge [Laughter] so [Laughter] so now there might be minimal sanding if any at all i took away our ridges out here they're basically flattened off feathered out and then once this dries and gets hard this will be relatively flat compared to the really rough exposed aggregate that's out here i'm just hydrating out on this pad that way it doesn't dry out the product that's coming out on the broom part ah so [Music] uh so you guys can see how fast it dries out when it's not hydrated as well this stuff's already kind of hard so i can just take the scraper that we're going to use on the the bigger pads and just knock any of these chunks off that's going to help any of the sanding that we have to do tomorrow any of that stuff just try to flatten it off and then we can blow that off tomorrow before we start this one's still a little wet because we just applied it but we'll try to get some of that scraped up as well all right so borders have that first coat and just one coat really flattens those off um so now we're going to work on the actual whole pad so i'm going to be using a metal scraper just a minute large thin scraper they usually use these on like sheetrock mud stuff like that on walls um but we're just gonna hold it tight and just scratch coat let this product fill in all these low spots and then i'm gonna try to also use this out here as well instead of doing it by hand since we're doing the whole pad and i'll just slowly let that flow over the edge so first things first gotta hydrate so a few things i'll point out before we start now obviously this is a pretty jacked up pad we wanted to pick one that was like probably one of the worst you're probably not going to run into stuff like this i mean these edges are just absolutely hammered and these whole pads are just absolutely deteriorated so good good video to show you for tutorial purposes but typically if you guys expose borders were not deteriorated in spalling you can just tape those off and coat up to them so we could we could have ran tape here piece of tape covered the borders just coated the pads and you could have kept your exposed aggregate that same look and then when you seal your overlay you can also seal that exposed aggregate so just keep that in mind if you guys wanted to keep that now we we decided to fill them just because it's so rough out here this would never look good if we just taped these off so we decided to fill those and then the other thing is we have some spalling right here this is very minor by the time we get done with our multiple coats on these you're not going to notice stuff like that we're just worried about filling in really deep pitted out stuff with this scratch coat so i'm not necessarily worried about scratch coating these but stuff like this really low spots uneven out here we definitely want to fill this type of stuff so now that my slab's hydrated we are going to start coating it so i'm going to just start up at the top and then work my way down and i want to apply pressure this is going to ride on all the high spots let the material fill in all the low spots if you guys have a hard time getting in these intricate spots you can just take a paint brush kind of brush it in there and then pull it out with the scraper [Music] you can see it's filling in all these low pitted out spots and leaving a nice flat profile for us so once i get this kind of corner done i should be able to hit the majority of this with a big scraper should go relatively quick so now that we're coating the whole pad i'm not worried about getting stuff on there obviously so i should be able to finish this out the majority of this with that big scraper and if you guys are better at doing it by hand you can also try all this stuff out by hand as well we just want to get make sure any of those trial marks are out of there little stuff like that completely fine but yeah so if you're better off doing it by hand that's that's totally fine just goes a lot faster when you're standing up and doing it and hydration is key guys notice i'm going getting to that dry concrete i don't want to just coat onto that i want to make sure we get some hydration there and it's always better to have more people right i don't want to have to always stop hydrate stop hydrate so it's good to have someone hydrating for you small stuff like this not as big a deal larger ones um definitely nice to have enough people helping you and then our joints we want to clean out our our joints best that we can got a little over here so clean this joint out this way here we go [Applause] so much okay so another thing you guys want to make sure you're doing is keeping your buckets in the shade don't let them just sit out in the sun they're gonna dry out and get kind of thick a lot faster so always try to keep stuff in the shade as you're coating [Applause] uh [Applause] i'm not worried about filling all that mastic up because our our next coats are going to be done with the squeegee and it's a lot easier to fill stuff in so this is kind of just like a rough texture coat filling all the low spots [Applause] now when we get towards the end i want to be pouring out smaller amounts i don't want to have to have a big pile at the end that i got to pick up so i'll just pour out smaller amounts as i get closer foreign so [Applause] [Applause] so [Applause] you want the small trout [Applause] so when you guys are done make sure you clean your tools right away that stuff's going to set up on those metal trowels real fast i got just a little spot there i'll just dump a little bit on this corner fill that in let it kind of level itself out and that's basically our first coat so that's filled in all those low spots out here filled in a lot of that exposed aggregate and by the time we're done doing our next two coats this should look like a brand new pad um and then like i said before guys we're not worried about you know stuff small stuff like that what we are going to do though we're going to let the leftover sit in a bucket and get kind of thickened up and we'll cut i'll show you how to kind of mold chunks like this that are missing in your edges and even maybe some thick spots on our exposed edge but we'll let that set up for maybe 20 30 minutes get a little lot thicker and then we can kind of mold any of the really thick spots that didn't you know fill in as well so like i said when we were coating guys i was going to show you how to patch these deeper chunks maybe in your expansion joints maybe on your edges anywhere that you have really deep spots where that thick material or the thin material when we're applying it wouldn't really fill those chunks in so what we did is we just poured a little bit out on a piece of cardboard let it sit in the sun let it kind of thicken up so now what we have is a more a lot more thicker kind of a paste so i can mold that i can really make it look like anything once i put it in here so what i'm going to do is i'm going to hydrate this a little and then i'll show you how to patch any spots like this so we're just going to mist it we're also going to hit this one right here i'm going to get it on the edge of my trowel put it in there kind of move it around and then we're just going to follow the curve of this hand joint now we've repaired that scrape off the excess and now we have a perfectly patched chunk that was missing this is going to set up just like everything and get hard and then we'll also get this guy so you can really go around and kind of fine-tune any of those big spots that are chunked out and then all i'm doing is just scraping this off so we don't have to sand that later now we have like a feathered edge i can coat right over that and you're not gonna know that we patched that so another spot is this edge this is where the expose was at up here it's not as bad but here is really pitted out and chunked out so i'm just going to patch these and help level this out so i'm just going around hitting any spots that are really bad and kind of make them a lot smoother fill them in a little bit better before this we do our second coat so same thing we'll just get some product on there and again always hydrate but once this sets up you can kind of really mold it however you want so [Applause] uh so i'm just trying to fill in any of those low spots maybe get a little bit more out here [Applause] [Applause] now what i can do is take a brew or a paint brush get a little water on it we can just kind of smooth out this edge and by the time we do our next coats it says it'll look a lot nicer than it would have if we didn't do that just feather out these edges just trying to get it like a feather edge so you don't have a height difference there you have it so we filled in a lot of stuff you saw a big pile that i used there so now that when we do these other coats this isn't going to be as low as it was and should match up with everything else from filling it so before we apply our second coat before we start pre-hydrating we want to knock off any of these chunks any of these any high spots that we had from that first coat like right here we got kind of a lip just kind of flatten that off and we can even get that big trowel that we were using applying it yesterday and knock some of these off but we're just looking for any high spots we just want to flatten out before we start so i usually just run around hit these like this stuff right here and i'll grab that big scraper and show you guys real quick so just going to run it flat it's good to just run through the whole thing real quick because you might miss some spots now we know all the high spots are scraped off in that area ah and then we'll just blow this off um and then we'll pre-hydrate again we want to pre-hydrate get the concrete satisfied with the moisture before we start applying the concrete overlay now when you guys are blowing it off obviously make sure you're not blowing right next to the tape we don't want to be ripping tape off and having to re-tape but so this is basically ready for the second coat so what i'm going to do tim's mixing the product now you're going to mix every step the same way so you're going to mix it the same way as tim showed you in the first coat so if you want to kind of revert back to that if you have any questions on uh the mixing process but they're all all mixed the same exact way so what i'm going to do is i'm going to start pre-hydrating i'm going to get this slab kind of satisfied with the moisture the water and then when we start coating we're also going to hydrate as we coat with the water so this is just water just spraying water to get this slab to where it doesn't soak it out and dry out as fast it's going to make us get a lot more working time out of the the product always want to pre-hydrate before you even start and like we said on that first coat we really recommend doing this stuff cooler temps morning time evening time the hotter it is outside the sun's out hitting it the faster this stuff's going to want to dry out on you so just keep that in mind kind of see where we sprayed earlier it's already drying out we want to kind of keep it from doing that and that's why we pre-hydrate we just want to make sure we don't have standing water puddles anything like that once we once that overlay material hits like a puddle or a really wet spot it'll thin out it'll kind of turn white right there because of the polymer in the overlay now you can see how much water i've been spraying on this and it's still soaking it up so if we were to just not pre-hydrate and start pouring and just hydrating as we go you're going to be wasting a lot of time you're going to be spraying a lot more water and it's going to be a lot harder to work with the material so it's always good to get this concrete pre-hydrated so it's not you're not running into that okay so we got slabs pre-hydrated we're basically ready to go i just sprayed a little bit more water because again we want to hydrate as we're going as well we don't want this slab to dry out on us and we're just going to pour a bead out i like to do my perimeters first and then kind of work in the middle and i might even grab a brush to get him all those nooks and crannies of that stone we'll see how that goes when i get there so we're going to just let a little bit flow over the edge so we can start coating that i'm not worried about having mist spots there we can come back with a paint brush clean those up or if you have a helper he can be brushing that in as you roll it over the edge get it close to that brick and then we're just going to start cleaning it out like i said if this is kind of tough for you just grab a paintbrush and you can just brush it all in there might go a little bit faster for you so take a paintbrush get some product on it and we can get in all the spots real quick again whatever works best for you we just want to make sure we get some product everywhere and then i can just kind of flatten that off so like i said get my edges and then i just work in the middle notice i'm applying pressure on the squeegee i'm holding it at an angle if i just hold this straight up and down see how it's pulling a lot more material so hold it at an angle it's going to put it down at a good thickness everywhere and the crushed marble in the mix is what's putting it down at the same thickness so it doesn't matter how hard i press down as long as i have the squeegee angled that crushed marble in the mix is going to let it go down a certain thickness kind of like a gauge rake and that's why it looks so even we don't have like thick trowel lines anything out there it's all nice and flat so once i get caught up i'll do my edges a little pour some more product out here grab that brush pull some of this out so so that paint brush comes in handy for tight areas spots that you that you can't really get the squeegee to works really well and then i can kind of get this under there and clean that up all right guys now that we're kind of getting out in a bigger area i kind of go over how to use this squeegee a little bit better here all right so when i'm trolling this stuff out in the middle you'll notice i always keep that bead i don't let it go past the middle of my handle and what that does is it always makes sure it's pushing out towards me now if i have this bead towards the end seattle start to build up now it's pushing out there now that leaves me a section i gotta stop clean off my squeegee and come back and clean it up so always when you're do trialing it out just keep that product in the middle of squeegee it's never going to push out the outer end and then obviously whichever way i tilt this squeegee it's either going to push product towards me or it's going to push product towards the front all right so now we're going to clean up our joint we always want to clean these joints out this is what lets the concrete kind of expand and contract and colder climates hotter climates different time temperatures so so you'll notice the spots we patched here those chunks that were missing you can't even tell that there was chunks missing now so really cool process to to fill any of those chips chunks that are missing in your joints clean those up really nice and obviously coating up to jagged brick like this is a little bit more time consuming than if you were just had a straight edge to coat two so it's always good to have make sure you have enough people helping you i could put product up there someone could come in start brushing that in with the brush while i'm working out here someone could be hydrating right make sure you have enough people helping you you don't want to be stopping i don't want to have to stop here cut in hydrate right make sure you get a couple people helping you have someone on the squeegee someone may be cutting in someone hydrating as you guys are going down applying the product so while tim's cutting that in i don't want to just wait i can keep moving product around you want to be as kind of seamless as you can be just non-stop coding and moving the more you stop and start the less working time you're going to have with the product so we're in the shade now so we haven't really been hydrating a lot if you guys are in direct sunlight you're going to need to hydrate more and how you tell if you need more hydration is if your pad looks see how it looks wet it's a darker color when it dries out it'll it'll go a lighter color in spots you want to make sure you're hydrating those areas keeping moisture in that before this overlay goes over it so just keep that in mind if you're out in direct sun you're probably going to be doing a lot more hydrating more frequently now there used to be mastic in this gap here that's just deteriorated away if you guys have stuff like this you can always finish coating seal it tape off your your edges right on each side put some tape down and then put like a polyurethane caulking in there um they usually sell that stuff at home depot and that'll fill that up it comes in multiple colors that's an option to get rid of your big gaps if you have those because we don't want to fill those up all right guys so what i'm doing here is this was exposed aggregate i'm trying to fill that in a little more so instead of applying a lot of pressure when i hit this outer edge i'm just letting the squeegee kind of just glide on it i'm not applying any pressure and you'll see what it'll leave it a lot thicker because if i apply pressure like everywhere else still really rough see how rough that is so if i get some product here and i just come through and just be really light it's gonna help fill that in level it out so but it's nice because this is our second coat you're basically getting some practice with the squeegee because it doesn't matter if we leave some drips out there some some trowel lines we just scrape those off or we sand them off so it's nice to get this coat basically gives you some practice on that squeegee and then when we do our third coat we're going to be using the squeegee again and so you've already had some time on it kind of got the hang of it so this this second coat's really nice for that very very forgiving as far as maybe having some imperfections out there we can always clean those up like i told you guys before i wasn't worried about covering all the mastic here on that first scratch coat but this coat i want to make sure i get all the way up to the tape edge so when we pull that tape we got a nice clean straight edge there's not mist spots so we're just gonna make sure we go to that tape edge and then i can clean that out now when we pull that tape and clean everything up we're gonna have a nice edge there i'm just using the tip of that squeegee to clean any of that excess out of under there just like so so a few things before we finish up if i'm trolling out a bead and i see a spot out here i need to hit if i just take this off the bead and come out here and hit it like this i've dripped chunks out there now i have a straight line left from the squeegee so if i want to clean something up like that tap it and then i'll come from an edge either there maybe a joint now i don't have any trial marks i didn't drip anywhere and so you'll notice when we're squeegeeing we're always patting these off just in case i got to come out because i'm not dripping anywhere so just just remember that kind of get in the habit of tapping that and if you're ever trying to fix a uh something out in the middle of the slab there just start from an edge and work into it same spot here the mastic's kind of deteriorated came out we're not really going to be able to fill that up nor do we want to so tim just brushed that in now notice how thick this is just because it's been sitting in the bucket a little bit if you guys run into that just take a drill spin it that'll re-agitate the material and if i just kind of re-agitate it now see how much more fluid it got that's what's going to happen if you just re-agitate it with a drill so now it's a lot easier to work with it's not real thick then same thing i'm going to go slow here not apply a lot of pressure make sure we're filling that in the best that we can with this coat there we have it so there's the second coat we'll let this set up this can take anywhere from one to two hours obviously temperature depends on that if it's in direct sun it's gonna dry a lot faster if it's in the shade it's gonna take a little longer but you can do multiple coats in a day so just keep that in mind you don't have to wait 24 hours once this is dry we can apply that next coat um so we'll show you guys that next next step uh when this has dried out all right guys we're on our final coat here um before we got to seal it a few things we want to go over again we want to make sure we're hydrating we're making sure we have uh moisture in that slab so it's giving us more working time when we put the product down another thing make sure we're keeping those buckets in the shade and again guys try to coat this stuff morning it's about nine o'clock so it's kind of cool out sun's out but it's still cool coat in the morning towards the evening you really don't want to be doing this stuff when it's really hot out it's going to cut that working time down quite a bit so we've already pre-hydrated like we've showed you on those previous coats always pre-hydrate and then when we start i can just spray a little water where it's needed as we're going down spray it if we need it but that pre-hydration spraying this slab before we start and satisfying that that porous surface with some moisture helps a lot when we are applying that overlay so i don't really have to spray as much now and then we can start applying that coat like we said before every step you mix it the same if you guys want to refer back to how to mix just go to that first coat watch that mixing video but again all these coats are mixed the exact same way and they're basically applied the same way so now that we have that second coat down you guys have had some practice with your squeegee so you should be pretty dialed in and we're just gonna apply this the same way running it right off the edge a little and remember we can always go back brush our edges in if we didn't hit everything if there's some missed spots or anything so i'm not too concerned about coating that whole edge because we don't want to waste a bunch by just pushing a bunch off either and then if you're going up against like your stone here maybe you got all that jagged edges a lot faster if someone just brushes that in and then i just got to get close and then clean it up instead of trying to coat everything with the squeegee right up in there so once he brushes that in i'm just cleaning that up making sure there's no thick spots no miss spots nothing like that now the easiest finish is just the the squeegee finish like this gives you good traction it's similar to a broom but you just don't have the lines if you guys want to see the broom process how to broom you can watch our 100 square foot repair kit we'll be brooming that and then also we have a 1250 square foot repair kit tutorial that shows the broom in that as well so but again it's a little bit a little bit more intricate when you guys are brooming because you got to coat this stuff you got to put a broom in if we're trying to go around pillars right front entry ways hallways in a front entry it can be kind of a pain trying to get a nice broom in those so the easiest way just leave it a squeegee finish it gives you a beautiful look and it still adds that traction that a broom finish would have wow notice how tim's not getting too far in front of me i wouldn't want him to run down the whole edge get that edge done because by the time i get you know down there it's going to start to set up we want to try to work together here keep the material wet as we're going nothing's drying out on us and getting sticky and then i'm just constantly looking out in front of where we've already hit making sure i don't have any trowel ridges thick spots and then if we run across any chunks or drips from the previous coat that are hard and i don't notice them i can scrape those out just like we showed you on the mother coach just run a scraper knock any chunks anything that's sticking up off notice i'm always keeping a thick pile on my edges we never really want to thin the product out like this right here so that's basically running the product where you don't have any more this tends to set up quicker and then when i come back if it starts to set up and i go over that it's almost like there's two layers there and you'll notice that so always try to keep a wet edge we call this a wet edge where we have a nice bead on that edge that doesn't allow the material to set up as fast creating that that lip there make sure you're cleaning out your joints you can see i need to get a little product here instead of pushing the product up there i can just get a little on that squeegee set it in there and i can fill small sections like that and just make sure you're hydrating as you're moving this stuff down because out here you can tell like right here it's dry we wouldn't want to go over that so tim's been hydrating for me as i'm moving right i would spray a little bit right here anywhere that it's dry we just want to miss those spots and again pre-hydrating before you start is going to make hydrating as your coating go a lot faster because you're not going to have to spray as much water space again we don't want to go on dry overlay we want to make sure it's got some hydration some moisture in that some water just like so and we just keep going now that we're getting close to the end we don't want to pour a bunch out and have to pick a lot up so we'll be pouring smaller amounts out i'll kind of troll squeegee this stuff out till it's almost out so we know how much to pour next thing we want to do is have to pick a bunch up at the end you so so now we don't have a bunch we get to pick up got the perfect amount out here all right guys so there you have it that's step three we're gonna let this set up and then we're gonna apply the sealer we'll show you guys that next and then if you're gonna do your third and final coat you want to make sure you're able to put that sealer on the same day we don't want to let this sit overnight maybe it's going to rain on it right we don't want it to rain on it when it's unsealed and we also don't want you know people walking on it getting footprints on us so caution it off if you have to put some cones up but we want to make sure we can apply that sealer the same day that we're doing that final coat so before we apply the sealer i want to show you an option to saw cut out your expansion joints control joints that you have because what can happen is when the slabs are uh freestyle cycles they'll move and kind of hit each other a little and sometimes it'll chip out some chunks in here so if we cut a thin saw blade right through using a concrete saw blade that's going to give it that that gap there so it can move more freely so i'm going to show you how to do that i'm just going to be using a simple angle grinder get them at home depot and then just a simple concrete blade they screw right on i'm going to cut it tim's gonna blow a blower to blow that away i'm gonna wear a mask ear protection eye protection and i'll cut upwards it's gonna kick the dust backwards and tim will blow towards me so it'll kind of minimize any dust but very very fast very simple and you can do this very quickly [Music] yeah you saw how simple it was when you guys are starting out sink this down right in the middle of that joint get it sunk in a little and then just keep it sunk down all the way through and that'll help you keep a straight line and then we just blow it off and we're ready to seal so you can you can do this as an option and again that just gives us some separation there for those free saw cycles when the slabs are moving they're not hitting each other there we're getting ready to show you how to mix our wb sealer so i'll kind of go over the mixing process very very simple single component these buckets you'll just have to slit the sides right because it's a a pour spout lid so if you can see they have these little notches you'll just take a razor blade kind of slit those open and that will allow you to pop this lid off because we do want to mix this a little before we get started just in case anything's settled in there and we're going to be using just a paddle wheel corded drill i'm going to put it on low obviously it's pretty full so we don't want to splash it around it's over i don't have any build up on the bottom of here so it's probably fine so we'll just mix low speeds 20 to 30 seconds and then we'll wash this off with just water easily cleans with water that way we can reuse this paddle wheel all right so this is basically ready to go we'll just pop that lid back on and then pull the spout off it's got a little seal here we're going to pop off and now it's ready ready to pour in our sprayer so things you'll need just just a drill to mix it you can mix it with the stir stick as well you just want to make sure there's not anything on the bottom there and then always good to use a strainer when you're pouring into sprayers just in case there is something in there we don't want to clog that sprayer up and we really recommend the cheap these are just cheap ace from ace hardware store pump up sprayers they work really good they spray that fine mist and that's kind of what we're looking for so i'll kind of show you the process of pouring in we're going to use that funnel and then you can pour this into another bucket to get less in there but if you tilt these backwards and pour out of them backwards it's it'll pour out a lot more evenly it won't start splashing and notice how i didn't fill it up all the way it's about about right here we want to if you fill it up too full you can't get enough pressure in there to spray it good you always have to pump like every few seconds so try not to fill it all the way up you can hear that release valve go so that tells me i've got the max pressure i can get in there and then we always want to test spray so it's spraying at a stream right now you want to get this spraying a nice fine mist just like that and we're basically ready to go all right so we're ready to seal we blew the pad off had some a little bit of dust on it tim's gonna hold cardboard on the house and we're gonna be doing three two to three thin coats i'm gonna pump this up as high as i can get it as much pressure i can get in there and then make sure we got a nice fine mist and i'm gonna hold this about a foot and a half two foot from the surface and kind of just spray circle motions and then work our way out so we'll just hit the house edge what we like to do that way the guy cardboard can kind of get out so once you start dripping on the cardboard get him off the pad get a new piece of cardboard and then i can come over here and just keep spraying until we get a fresh piece of cardboard out see all right guys so there's our first coat we'll let this set up for about a half an hour until it goes dry you can kind of see the wet spots still so once it's all dry and dull looking we can apply that second coat typically around a half an hour 45 minutes you can get that next coat on all right guys so i'm going to show you the second coat we're going to apply it the same way and then once that second coat's dry we'll we'll do a third coat we're not necessarily going to show you that just because it's the same exact process and then we'll show you guys how to pull tape clean everything up so we'll show you this next coat and again every coat is applied the same exact way and you want to try to get two to three coats minimum three coats should be perfect after that third coat it should all be evened out and everything should be sealed up so same thing going to hit the edges until it starts dripping and then you'll see since we didn't cardboard this when we pull this tape you won't even see a line or anything from from the stuff hitting that brick all right so there's the second coat we're not going to show you the third coat because it's just the same process so what we'll do is we'll get that third coat on we'll show you how to clean everything up pull the tape and just keep in mind you really should be doing this stuff towards the evening so we recommend doing your final coat that morning right towards the morning when it's cool out and then waiting until the evening to apply the sealer that's going to give you the best results so let final coat third coat morning and then that evening apply the sealer when it's kind of cooling off and it's not as hot out all right guys i'll go over pulling the tape on the stone now remember when we were taping it we showed you the tape high and you're going to see why you see how nice this will start to pull because we taped high if we didn't tape high it would constantly be tearing and we just have to cut this stuff out so always pull down until you get to the bottom just like that and if you come if you come over here so that's pretty much it just go around pull your tape now if you get the spots where maybe the overlay is a little too high or you tape too low you can always cut that out you would just take a razor blade and i'll show you that as well and this is just residue that pressure wash off that's not from the overlay necessarily so easy way just clean that off but take the knife just cut a slit down there now we taped high so we don't have to do that but that's basically what you would do if you didn't tape high and it can kind of be a nightmare so make sure you guys are taping high when you tape and you won't have to worry about that now the other thing is pushing your rock back you guys can clean this overlay out or you can just push the rocks over it now leaving that in there it's obviously gonna act like a weed bear you're not gonna have weeds growing up through that if you want to clean it out just get like a shovel and you can just chip that out very very simple but as long as you dug it out enough you can just throw your rocks back over and then you won't even be able to tell that we had concrete down there and then once it all gets cleaned up it'll look absolutely awesome so very very easy way to clean stuff back up and just making sure you push the rocks away because if these rocks were left here and we tried coating it we'd have all this overlay in the rocks it would just be a lot of drama to deal with so we'll finish pulling the tape i'll kind of show you on the conker here you guys saw the brick there pulling off the bricks we'll do the concrete here but it's always kind of the same thing start from the back end of the tape and move it forward you're gonna pull it all at once and it's pulling just apply a little tension to it and it won't tear like it just did um but yeah real simple clean up so we'll finish cleaning this up we'll also show you the finish uh the final footage of the project [Music] you

Channel: Leggari Products

Views: 1,028,434

Rating: 4.8159947 out of 5

Keywords: concrete driveway resurfacing, how to repair concrete sidewalk, resurfacing, best concrete resurfacer, bourbon moth woodworking, quikrete, how to resurface concrete, old concrete, concrete resurfacing, concrete repair, driveway resurfacing, concrete surface repair, how to repair concrete, how to repair broken concrete, repairing concrete, concrete overlay, concrete repair tips, repair concrete full tutorial, repair concrete from begginning to end, easy concrete countertops

Id: 0gcJ045fWUk

Length: 95min 28sec (5728 seconds)

Published: Sat Jul 18 2020