DIY How To Renovate an Unfinished Basement A To Z

in his video we are going to show you everything you need to know to transform your basement from an unfinished place of concrete into a beautiful space like you see behind us tutorial videos on how to build how to drywall how to do the flooring how to build a bar how to do countertops how to build your bathroom it's all in this video to stay tuned we're gonna teach you everything you need to know welcome back we have a really awesome project this month we're doing a basement renovation from scratch to a 3 year old home so the process we're going to use here is really simple we're going to put down a subfloor system that gives you an air barrier a moisture barrier and then something that's wood that you can build your frame on so you don't have to attach everything to concrete and that's because most of this area is gonna be done with a laminate finish some a really nice laminate finish but some of the other areas we're gonna be doing all tile the hallway the back area here we're gonna have a bathroom so that area there we're gonna frame a little differently so we're going to show you contrasting techniques and then you can decide which one is right for your job so a lot of us in the building history we've we've come across this dimpled plastic before it's called plateau but the reality is it's not the product name that's just a product brand name so this is actually DMX and this is available my local building store I picked it up I usually use this for my sub floors underneath the five-eighths tongue-and-groove OSB plywood and we can screw that to the floor with tapcon screws and that's my traditional basement system but what I was curious about was this little thing right here so this is another product same company DMX it's blue it's a three and one so this is insulated it's a vapor barrier and it's soft and cushiony so you can actually make your subfloor out of this and laminate right over top they've gone through the trouble of testing it and getting it approved for putting a laminate floor directly on this product I'm not a big fan of that especially in this installation because I'm building interior walls and I don't want to be setting walls on this and I don't want to be building my walls first everywhere and then filling all my cavity with this because I'm on a walkout and we have this for season whether we run the risk of a thaw freezing cycle and getting moisture underneath our concrete pour and if that happens I want to have an airspace that transfer that moisture past all my interior walls and let the building soak all that up over time if I build my walls first and put this down I'm gonna be trapping moisture and I'm gonna get that musty smell no matter what I do so this is a good product if you're just doing one room and you already have walls but if you're like us and you're building new walls go with this system the funny thing is they're both plastic and at the end of the day it's the same cost per square foot to install this and plywood or this alone so it really comes down to what's more convenient for you and your situation but I would recommend both these products they both work great [Music] there we go just be easier for us to do the layout this way [Music] a little longer than I need but that's fine we're doing the same thing again on the other side of the room [Music] so you can see that what we just put down here is square footage-wise is almost 400 square feet took about 10 minutes which is awesome we tape it together with a new blue tuck tape this stuff is the same as a red only it has been tested and approved for wet areas so this will hold on plastic the plastic even when it gets wet so now we have this whole areas one vapor barrier which is brilliant you'll never get that if you use dry core traditionally when you're laying down flooring you'd use a square like this measuring tape and you're basically working off of whatever is pre-existing now we all know we never find anything square in a house so what we're gonna do is we're gonna use the laser level techniques and these can see I got it lined up right now and this line here represents a straight line from one steel post to the other and we're going to use this to establish our square for the entire project this way we're going to build a wall off of each of these areas and we're gonna start everything off square on that line because when you're building if you have one thing that's always gonna be straight and square and everything's built off of it the rest of the project moves so much faster [Music] [Applause] [Music] what we've done is we've marked our laser line and our laser line is going from post to post and it's off this point here so we cut our plywood from our end wall to fit our frame for the door plus three inches and then we've also kind of plywood plus right here add a little extra half-inch that's because when I am put these doors in the door will go here they'll be hinged open and when it's closed the middle of my door will be over the transition of the one floor into the next I'm going to go from laminate to tile so by doing this in advance it just makes my life easier all the way around one two and then three [Music] so we're done drilling a few holes just to do a little demonstration for you how we secure this to the floor that's an SDS machine it's awesome it's a really good hammer drill you can see there wasn't a whole lot of effort going in didn't have to put his body weight behind it if you have one of these drills you can actually switch this gear over to hammer it will work it'll take five times as long it'll get the job done but if you're doing a big space like this and you don't own one like this go to the store and rent it twenty-five bucks for the day definitely worth the investment we're using tapcon screws coated screw won't rust pull on everything nice and tight even though we've pulled it tight or maintaining our airspace underneath the plywood it doesn't have to be a lot because any air that's moving will take any moisture that could possibly get underneath this floor someday and it'll transfer that all through the house and it'll stay drive forever and you'll never have a moisture mold mildew kind of problem so you can see the system works great we need about six or eight screws for every sheet of plywood because this tongue-in-groove if I put a screw within a foot of that joint I'm also compressing the other sheet so you don't have to go a lot of overkill just make sure that when you're walking around you got rid of the spongy spots if you need to put a few extra screws somewhere that's fine also while you're drilling you might notice where you are you might have softer concrete and depending on the driller you use when you're drilling your hole if your screws aren't grabbing then just make one little change drill straight through don't clean the hole as you go sometimes the concrete can be a little bit too soft so if you just push down and leave all that dirt in the hole then you'll have something there to bind that screw to the hole and it won't be lifting out on now we're going to discuss how to frame your basement now there's a lot of different situations going on downstairs so you've got depending where you live where we are we're all concrete basement floors and then wood frame construction sometimes we have walls got concrete and then wood combinations there's always different building materials here we've got steel structure as well so we have to be able to tie in to that so we have wood ceiling we have steel frame we have concrete floors some places we have our subfloor that we built and once that's anchored to the floor it's really simple you can do a platform wall which is basically you just lay the boards down measure cut screw it together and nail it together stand it up level it square it boom stick it in place the other option is you're going right on the concrete after going right on concrete like an art District Building Code requires we have a vapor barrier between the wood and the concrete so that it's not wicking the moisture out of the concrete that's important it will prevent premature rot you don't want to build something that only last five years when it can last for 40 so we have regular wood and when it comes in contact with concrete it will rot really wood is where you find the mold in your house it's already in the wood well this place on earth is the forest what we're trying to do is make sure that the moisture content in our wood never gets above to a point where the mold starts to grow so putting this in contact with concrete will cause it to go mouldy in our district we're allowed to use a pressure treated lumber that's just up here this is a Sienna Brown it's not green that's fine it's the same stuff different color and we can go directly on the concrete with this with no plastic no you know sill gasket no wraps we can just screw it right to the concrete floor and we can do this in two ways we can put it down first with our laser level put a bottom plate in this top plate on the ceiling and we can balloon frame in place because a lot of cases when you pour concrete your floors are going all over the place for height or we can do a platform construction as well put the bottom sill bottom plate on nail it together stand it up I generally like to do platform construction keep all my framing about 1/2 an inch shorter than my ceiling and then we just shim and screw or nail in place as we need so we're gonna cover both in this scenario we're gonna go on top of our wood with a platform made of rigging the wood and then we're gonna go on top of the concrete using one of these and we'll try a couple of different framing techniques to kind of cover the bases there's a lot of ways to do it right he's got to find what works best for you so this is a separation wall for our living room to a storage area it's our mechanical room so what we're gonna do here is we're gonna do a platform frame all spruce lumber don't need anything special because we have our sub floor with our vapor barrier enter and in our airspace underneath this construction I consider to be a 40 year build this wall is going to be here years and years after anybody has bought and sold a few times and what we do is we're gonna build it stick it up in our hole and then we're gonna use these bolts here these are awesome we're going to pre-drill into the steel we're going to attach our frame to the steel with screws instead of just glue or maybe some explosive ramsett nails [Music] [Applause] [Music] holdin flesh make sure your woods not twisted you buy the same room with this cloth and here what is twisted you can sit on the wood and you can manipulate the wood even if you're working alone that's why I bought it because I find myself eating a second pair of hands sometimes into the situation [Music] there we go now the way that we're gonna operate this for leveling this is really simple chords like the king of lasers so he likes to build lasers and I love the system because he sets up a level line top and bottom you just can't screw up so all we got to do is we know our top plates gonna go level off for this because that's where the laser line is hitting right sweet done we got a wall [Music] [Music] alright so the way we're gonna fasten this to the steel and you really have two options you can use like a Remington impact nailer but if you make a mess there then you got to fight to pull it back out this is a little simpler we just pre-drill a hole and then we're gonna set the self-tapping screw right into the steel done alright there we go done and then we're gonna build this wall right in front of the steel we're gonna go with the top and bottom plate we'll cut a little bit for the door after we're done but first we're just gonna into the wall so that we can put our screw our wall into it it becomes our drywall backing as well we've got to be careful because all those these posts look like they're in the same spot they're not squared to the wall that we started with remember we put down our subfloor we made this our straight line so this is carrying this post this is carrying a different part of the structure and so as a result they're out about an inch so we're gonna build a door in front of it instead of between it we're coming up to the steel which is our lowest point so all of our measurements were based on the lowest point so that makes it easy for us and we're just gonna nail all this in do [Music] this would be our header we're just stick framing this in because it's easier at this point oh yeah baby I'll hold it this bad boy from moving around with us since we're using our laser level you don't have to stop and check for level and square continually because we already know we are right there [Music] so now that we got basically our picture frame our outside frame of this wall I'll take you care of this will anchor it now it's not going anywhere Gord is cutting my kings and Jack's for the door that's fancy carpenter talk for a piece of wood that goes from the bottom plate to the top plates the King and the deck is just a little bit smaller it goes to the top of the header we're gonna get those nailed in I'm gonna probably put it flush off of here the door is gonna swing out and then it'll come over to whatever what we're doing 35 inch hole for a 32 inch door that leaves you enough room with a 35 inch gap you have a 32 inch door 5/8 jamb each side a little bit of space some chamois a little bit of give you some wiggle room in case you didn't do it as square as you probably should have just good practice to get into so I'm gonna just line these up so then I'm not wasting space from my door now just know when you're doing something like this leave your wood sticking out over top your plate when you're screwing an angle a little bit we're gonna have that screw if it hits the wood it'll start pulling it in nice and tight you can line it up flush [Music] damn I've got the line for the laser level there we go because now I'm gonna stand in front of my laser I need to see what the heck I'm doing right again pull it off the wall a little bit once you've got contact get your hand out of the way you're gonna tighten it right in a pinch of face [Music] okay I'm gonna use a laser level you don't have to rush around and say you hit the edge just kind of measure off the line one inch off the line okay huh toss that sucker read so what we do is we have a 34 inch gap plus the jacks it's three inch makes a 37 inch header so if we've got the bottom level in square and we just put the jack in place there should be on our laser mark BAM perfect there you go anything you want to do with that is working fine nice the couple through hello we'll go through the process on how to build a wall in concrete so we have our pressure treated plate for the floor our spruce plate for the top the top plates gonna be interrupts with some plumbing so what we did is we measured off our footprint for the bottom cut another piece a little bit shorter so we have room to stick it in we've marked our boards so we know where our studs are gonna go okay just do the speed square measure it off the market now we're gonna put this on the floor we've got our laser level lined up so we can mark all of our mentions here it's important that this is right on the money put your hand there you can check your line because when we're gonna put the top plate in we're gonna go off the laser level line on the ceiling screw that in real quick then we just cut and measure and we just stick frame in the wall so we've used a square here to find out where we're coming off this wall it's nice to have things square in level now what we gonna do grab our gun Jeffrey's got a gun so we just take our screw just like we did with the plywood for the floor you drive that into the concrete that's how we attach it to the ground we'll do one of these every couple of feet on the plate screw in the top and then all we have to do is cut and measure the sticks again make sure the level on their marks you're gonna have a wall mark the wood where the laser is so now we got the ceiling mark with where the header goes is we're gonna just pass this across in front of the laser underneath help with the ceiling put this edge of the board on that laser mark and that'll be dead level with the floor plate with the ceiling plate put it on the pencil lines that we've merged earlier and I can put some weight on that for you because I'm short I'm only 5 10 and a half Goliath over here ready I'm fun - money good [Music] [Music] so now we're just gonna mark this up 92 and a quarter now don't forget the reason we can do it this way is because the plate is preciously in number and in our jurisdiction satisfies the code for having something that's not going to rot in contact with the floor we're just lining up in the up with the marks that we made on the two by fours before we installed the top and bottom plate and as a result I don't need to worry about using screws I can use knees nails all day long so just a recap me more framing we got a couple of her rules right we want level we want square so we got a laser though when you were involved in laser level in your building technique it saves you a lot of time you don't have to stand around with a stick level no matter how lovely that bubble is sitting it's never as exact as using a laser so this this is a great way to work by yourself if you are working by yourself it's your second pair Hansel now all you've got to do is continue to build these individual walls and where they meet up you know you just have to tie them together in the corners keeping everything flush straightening out any warped wood back framing so that all your drywall has something to screw to and so when you're finished your room just stop and think how am I gonna sell my drywall do I have all the lumber I need and before you walk away just back frame make sure that everything is ready to go to the next step there's nothing more maddening than order to install some drywall and you have nowhere to screw the drywall to anyway if you liked this video make sure to subscribe to the channel we're gonna show you all the steps in the basement how to drywall and how to tile it how to finish it all then hang in the doors and the carpentry and most importantly the look on someone's face when they walk down stairs and see the perfect finished job you so today we're gonna be installing the new real Bell pro line shower bell on this bad boy here it's a new product on the market the new pro series this is a mixing valve hot cold and then one outlet and then the second outlet now oddly enough this one comes with it's a three quarter inch line for crimping or it's a half inch piece of male copper here so that you could just put copper line right over top and extend down to a tub or you can add that little stopper there with solder the other option you might want to try as a sharkbite but on further inspection we found that when you compress that on there as hard as it can go it doesn't allow for the interior of that valve to actually work and that pops off without any don't use the sharkbite on this valve is this not quite enough room note tube real Bell Pro if you want to make a modification so that this valve is a stem is a little bit longer then we could use their sharkbite in this situation the back of this wall is the storage room we'd have access to it that'd be a perfectly legitimate installation so what we're gonna do instead because we're gonna open up this valve and this is just a temporary thing here we're going to take that out because it's got a rubber gasket on it and we don't want to overheat it so we're gonna actually solder on our half-inch copper cap okay and so this is how we're gonna do it we're gonna do that first before we get into any of the construction because we wanted to give this time to cool off again before we handle it now at the hardware store or you can buy a little soldering kit for dummies it's a pretty new stuff comes with solder it comes with flex okay so we're gonna just light up our torch really simple you'll hear the gasps how to flame all right so here we go so what I do is I just set my torch on the ground we run concrete if you're over top of any other kind of flooring put some protection down when the solder drips out it's actually quite hot in the convert your flooring so we're gonna scratch out the inside of our cap just to create some grooves there where my solder can sit in and you got some flux paste we're gonna just wipe that up and that acid basically sets up that copper so it's nice and clean so we're gonna just heat where we want the solder to go so don't want to heat that part we want to heat over here because that's where we want the solder to go so put that in the flame you know this gas in this system it's a little slower than a mps gas or a plumber's charge an acetylene torch we want to heat the copper to the point where we heat the copper and the brass when the brass is hot enough over here that the solder melts on there it goes starting to suck it up now I'm just gonna push my solder rod right in the side when there's enough left over that it falls out now we're done I'm just giving a bit of a wipe [Music] there we go so when I'm doing a job like this I like to think ahead of myself and I set up I know my waterline is coming down my centerline is gonna be here it's really tight to get bring water down down and join it over so I'm gonna drill a hole bring the water from this side so all they just lay out my fittings make sure I got everything I need before I get started you have to pay attention here because you need something to mount this diverter on this valve body needs something now so the middle of this plastic line which is basically it tells you anywhere here okay that's where your wall needs to finish so I'm gonna set this back three inches two and a half inches plus my wall board and then I'll be at 3 inches finished plus tie off it's great the way you set this is if pretend you're standing in your shower and you just go grab it boom just high okay and we're gonna go back two and a half inches with my lumber [Music] at 38 so we're just setting up our 2x4 in the wall now you wanted to be spacing sturdy so it's not gonna twist you don't want to have your valve body moving around inside the wall mark our center line for our valve body right there okay so that's the center line for my valve body all right so we're gonna hold this up on that center line that's where we're gonna mount it here's my mounting screws right there and there and this is where I need my hole for my water supply okay I would use this bit here is 3/4 it's plenty big enough but because it's so close and so tight I'm gonna get myself a little extra wiggle using the self-feeding auger bit [Music] it's really simple guys we're gonna put our copper ring on the pipe and it's nice we got this color-coded hex line here we're gonna go a quarter inch up and this is this wonderful little tool now you pull these back and it opens it right up okay and then it's a crimper as well so once we got the crimper on position turn the fitting and then squeeze now there's a position of this handle I'd like really or stiff and then once you get past the point of where it needs to be it just collapses on you so we take that off has this wonderful little plate here and it says go or no go it has the different dimensions 3/8 3/4 we're using half-inch so we're gonna just see if that fits perfect you see you know that's how you measure it's a little gauge to measure that your crimp is the right size awesome give ourselves that quarter-inch okay man big double check I'm good to go okay so now we got that one set up here we go so now we have lots of line to play with we're gonna cut it on the short side first look at that ring installed and then we'll make this a little bit shorter there we go put in our ring personally I find it easier to connect my plumbing before I mount it again come by check your fitting with your gauges make sure it goes on nice okay I'm going to install this supply line for all these guys on YouTube were upset about the o-rings that I used before this system I mean yeah great it seems like it works great has a nice compression but this is a two-hand operation and these rings slide up and down off the pecs way too easily so you'd almost need a third hand to operate this thing so this isn't just a simple shower valve so it's not a valve with a shower head what we're putting on here is a suggestible slide bar so we're gonna have our hoe is attached to the shower head which releases off the slide bar it comes down under and over attaches to this drop here here so now we got to get our water supply from here through the other side of the wood and then down to this location I usually like to have it you know somewhere close so that it hangs nice not a real big issue so we got to drill another hole here we go there we go okay now using this testing gauge might seem a little monotonous but this is a great way to find out if you missed locking one of your joints so I got a few flooring screws here I'm gonna use that to mount my drop here they're a lot stronger than drywall screws and yet you don't stick out the other side and cause any friction with my life when you're buying a system like a rebelled pro a lot of times you'll get the rough-in or the valve body and then a trim kit separate buy from the building stores you'll get it all in the same box the rough-in valve comes with this temporary plug very similar to a Delta system and if you don't have the finished kit when you install this and you put it together this is a great temporary fix right you screw that on now you're watertight you can turn the pressure on but now there's sharing that area with the hot in the cold water line and the hot water will win so that heat will travel back up the cold water line and presumably over to the toilet then put hot water in your toilet then the toilet starts to sweat something fierce and then your client calls you up it says how come my toilet is making water all over the floor get the trim kit at the same time and install the finish valve right away when you're dining your entire job you might want to open it up again and flush it just to make sure there's no debris in the line so it's operating properly we're gonna do is just check the paperwork real quick all right and that was warned to finish valve yes it calls for a to installation okay one just slides over the other ba-ba-ba-ba-ba good all right no I'm not guessing it's pretty straightforward actually but I just don't want to guess [Music] okay that lines up like that and this lines up like that these two holes there okay this says you do finger tight and then the quarter turn with a wrench meet the wrench now all that's left to do is to pressurize the lines make sure it's not dripping and we can complete our wall installation and our tiling and then we'll come back and put the trims on at the end of the day so when we're doing a basement renovation we want to add a lot of heat to the floor and the secret here is this when you have your roughen basement done by a builder they're gonna drop in there's a code requirement so many square feet for every heat run and they'll throw them into the ceiling and they'll blow hot air into the ceiling and it'll make it about halfway down and then they'll start rising back up again so what happens is when you're sitting there watching TV your heart is beneath that level of heat so it's actually in about ten degrees which is what the temperature around the basement is in our area if you're only sitting in ten degrees you're going to get hypothermic that's why you need a blanket so what we do is we want to tap into the side of our heat runs we want to bring a couple of extra lines down right near the floor and we want to reduce the size of the ducting from a five to a four-inch and that increases pressure blows the hot air across the floor and now we're heating the room from the ground up and not just from the ceiling so you're gonna need to add a couple of runs to the room you are heating a space that was never heated before to that degree so you're not gonna disrupt the balance in the home you're just gonna take the heat level from around the ceiling and we're gonna be bringing that heat level down closer to the floor it's the way we do this and we're lucky because in residential ducting the metal is pretty thin all you do is you take your knife let me get up here and show you and you the reason I'm showing you this technique is because a lot of people don't have the proper cutting tools for bringing in ductwork and I get that so this works really great it's a nice little cheat so what we have here is a five inch side take-off and it has an adhesive gasket on it it basically sticks right to the ductwork so we just want to make sure that we're cutting our hole big enough that we're opening up the back end space that's on here and we're just gonna eyeball that lines aren't there yeah we'll keep cutting once you have your hole all you have to do is remove the plastic gasket that exposes the adhesive all right once you have that pressed onto the duct work over the hole you get a couple of these little number eight screws and you just want to screw that together just for good measure you don't want to trust a piece of long term but it's handy for working on your own to have that on there because you don't need a second pair of hands holding that in place there we go we just open the damper and now we're good to go alright so here we are we're gonna just finish off one of our heat runs demonstrate the whole system the idea being we wanted this to be blowing across the floor you can set the height wherever you like it I've got this set so that after on my flooring and my baseboard are in I still have a few inches they're spaced I don't want my heat run sitting right on the baseboard just in case that the measurements a little bit off like to have a little bit of mercy there so I have a four by ten boot the four four inch collar I'm taking this piece of pipe and linked it together we're just gonna stick it in here this is probably about the easiest production that you're gonna get so sooner or later while you're doing your duct work you're gonna run into this issue the duct work when it comes pre-cut has one smooth edge and one corrugated edge we'll call it and sooner or later you're gonna have to put it on something like this and we're gonna use this to go from five to four inch to build pressure up or you can see it doesn't fit now this is gonna be one of these situations where you're gonna want to go to the store you're gonna want to have the right tool for the job don't be one of those guys that comes over with a pair of snips and cuts to all of this in two fins and then kind of bends them together that's just ridiculous and it's a good way to get hurt this tool here it's a crimper and all you do it's slow and monotonous as you go around the outside of the pipe crimping the pipe and basically you're taking whatever that diameter is and you're forcing it in and out on the crimps to create a new diameter of pipe so that it fits inside the next fitting [Music] there's no real skill involved in this just patience there we go now we take this you perfect so now that we have our extension up into the ceiling area all we have left now is put some five inch pipe from this reducer over to my side take off in order to do that I need a piece of pipe here and I need an angle so a 90-degree angle and then another length of pipe so there are two ways to cut the pipe that comes from the factory we can use the regular pair of snips and we can cut around and so we're gonna set it to demonstrate here I just need like a six-inch piece what I like to do here is that less like use a black marker mark both sides that I'm cutting and I reach to the back and I mark the middle in the back of the duck that way when I'm cutting here I remember this doesn't have to be perfect we're gonna snap it together and we're gonna end up dimpling both ends on this one just so that that that's out of the way there we go now this stuff is sharp you could wear gloves if you're not comfortable working with sharp metal here we go so now we just fold this together just like tongue-and-groove horse that in make like a heart shape and then snap it together to make a round now it's locked in and we're gonna dimple our other end too to do max we should be playing some really good music right about now maybe gonna add it in later maybe elevator music you know the kind and like one of those thriller movies where the guys in the elevator he's on the way to go kill somebody in all yours all right here we go we get that piece in ba boom now we have a five inch elbow in the way you make 90 degrees because you have a white end and a shorten on every one of these sections you just connect all the dots so all the short pieces go together take a little puzzle be really careful don't reach in and turn it around there's a little metal joint on every one of these rings and as your finger goes by it'll just rip it right open so if you're gonna grab just pinch the we'll hold the outside again wear gloves if you're not used to doing this you're not comfortable BAM 90 degrees now we can put that up here on top of the dimple they're facing in the right direction we can throw in a couple of screws now just to make sure this assembly doesn't come apart now I'm using a really good little self tapping screw for duct work which is kind of handy because it digs in really good for the next piece of pipe we want to measure from here where the collar is to here where the collar is and because it's already corrugated on both sides we don't have to use those fancy scissors again so we stick out a measuring tape from where we want to go to where we want to go and I'm getting a reading about 15 inches just for fun we're gonna create this pipe first and just go all the way down I'm going to show you another tool you can add to your arsenal and this looks like another pair of snips but it's not it's really cool it has two blades in the middle and actually is used for cutting in a duct work that's pre-existing so there's more than one application I'm just gonna get down on the ground and I'll show you how this works first we stab it and then you start snipping now this is not designed to be really quick you only get about an inch for every snip you can see we're actually cutting a strip better quarter-inch wide right out of the duct now this is actually kind of handy because there is no point that your hands get anywhere near the sharp metal so let's say you wanted to put a trapdoor or add something into existing ductwork this is a great way to get in you can also use this when you're doing your side takeoff we're gonna do is we're gonna get it on one side first and you just bend the metal around to help it shape around the fins there we go at our five inch is just not small enough when you cut into the metal there's just all these shards and everything else so instead of trying to clean up the cut metal we're just gonna wreak ramp with these bad boys because they make this mop hole smaller than it does from the factory group get a couple screws in here so it doesn't cause any grief down the road generally speaking I like to is plenty there we go this week's video we're gonna focus in on a couple of different techniques for doing bulk it's one of them involves a laser which you may or may not have I highly recommend getting one if you're doing a basement renovation 150 bucks goes a long way to making things like perfect the other technique is just a little bit of common sense imma show you how to use just leveling okay so over here by the door we're gonna have a bulkhead we've got to cover up some steel all right now this is kind of cool because you can go out and buy a piece of lumber that basically fits inside the hole no it doesn't fit perfect have the tendency of falling on your head but what you can do is you can wedge it in so the above the door over here this 2x4 represents the the bottom part of our bulkhead it is sitting at the same height as this steel is off the floor okay so what I wanted to do is if I hang drywall from here to over the bulkhead it's too big a space I need to have another piece of wood coming down the middle now you can buy two 12-foot 2x4 if you like but generally my experience twelve foot two by fours are never straight and we're only going to be supporting it in the middle so what we're gonna do we're going to stick two by four on top of here now here's the idea bringing up the speed I want to have this 2x4 wedged in all the way across level on each side so that when I put my 2x4 from the outside edges I just stick them up the middle like a sandwich this is actually quite simple to do okay so here's my leveling system it's a two-by-four don't tell it's not a level what I can do yes I just tapped this up till my 2x4 is flush with my metal so now I'm sitting at the same height on both sides I'm gonna mark there in the system you can do on your own we're gonna just put up screwing it may or may not move around when you do this so now you just give it a little bit of a tap till this beneath your mark set your screw now we're gonna just tighten the screw and the head on an angle it's gonna lift the board up until the mark shows like it was before perfect really need a new drill alright now I built both sides of this little area here exactly the same so they both have a two-by-four flush up against the beam that's level in square so now I can add my extra support for my drywall and before I put that in I added the screws right if you're working alone sometimes pre doing the screw is it's your second pair of hands so now we're just gonna get this up eyeball in the middle put the screw where I need to and drive it home here we go we left it up level square and flesh and tie them together then we're just gonna throw a couple more screws in here for good measure one of the cool features here is if it's not all level and square when you lift these up tight together they won't be flush they'll scissor so that's another way you can tell if your stuff is being built straight so now we just want to anchor this down we don't want it floating because I knew there's a 2x4 in that wall behind the drywall I was able to cheat okay each screw carries about 80 pounds so I've got my beams laminated together here they're just two by fours so really a beam so I got four screws to hold them together I got two screws up here one on each end so if I built this right you should carry my weight yep so we built this more structural I mean you could hang a Jolly Jumper or something on this no problem but all we're gonna carry is the weight of ultralight drywall so this will last a thousand years so here we are we're using that Dewalt laser to connect the dots what I've done is I've measured off my steel beam the same measurement here and the other end of the room and I put a mark on the ceiling and put a mark on the wall so this laser self-leveling and I just move it around until I connect the line up there with a dot on the wall the other end beautiful now now I've got a laser line all across my room so all I have to do is transfer that information from the red line onto the ceiling so I just use the ladder and everywhere my red line hits the wood I make a black mark there we go and this will represent my 2x4 will be here and then my bulkhead will be about here what I'm using as am using a 2x4 which is never perfectly straight you could use metal if you felt so inclined but I'm offsetting my 7/16 supply wood that I pre-cut at the hardware store today they have a great saw that cuts it all exactly the same so every one of these is exactly 9 and 3/4 which is the same depth as the bottom of my steel beamer so once I've built this box I can actually run my track across wood to steel to wood again and that will support all the way to my bulkhead so we're just gonna use dry wall screws to connect all this again we're not hanging anything off of this bulkhead except for the drywall so we don't need a whole lot of strength going on we'll put a screw every 12 to 16 inches just for posterity one of the benefits of working in these new homes so you can see that the floor joists package is actually it's an engineered lumber so again it's like an aspen it-- capped with two by threes lots of adhesive and when they put those packages down from steel to an exterior wall it is really flat we don't have a lot of movement on there like I said traditional house that's all done in wood because the crown is up and down and all over the place here is nice and flat so we really have an advantage so because I'm working alone I'm going to put a screw in about the middle and I'm gonna start there we go I'm gonna start hanging my bulkhead in the middle of the room it's a lot easier for me to add on once I have the first piece up so I take my screw and I'm just looking for thy joist line x marks the spot I'll use a ladder okay so my goal here is basically to line this up you'll see here's my laser line right on the edge of my wood and so I'm gonna just get this screw in first I'm not gonna tighten it up too much yet so now I'm gonna get this over here get it right on the laser line okay so now I've got it up on my laser mark okay I can throw on the rest of my screws you can pre assemble the bulkhead like before we're gonna just take any two-by-four start a screw in the middle put it up on your laser line now because I'm overlapping my two by fours don't have to be in touch with each other it's not necessary because my laser line already tells me what's straight here we go so now I don't have to connect my dots with my lumber because my plywood is going to be doing that for me so I just want to get this on my laser line mark so I just want to check each end of the 2x4 make sure that it's in the right spot we're good right there make sure there's nothing above it why are your plumbing before you drive a screw that's a mistake you'll only make once okay if you put all your two-by-fours up first and you can come back with a plywood and then hang your plywood preset your screw 2x4 is an inch and a half so you've got lots of room to play here can I tell your dots here that's not going anywhere so once you got all your plywood screwed on what we're gonna be doing is we're gonna be just screwing this wood to the bottom edge of the plywood okay with this screws all our down the run and then we have a mounting surface for our track now we're just using a metal track it's got a shape to it so it'll carry a lot of weight run it across to the other side of the room and then we have something to screw or drywall to but that is the basics of how to build a bulkhead okay so we are in the basement bathroom now we've got a drop ceiling going on and our client bought this house three years ago and knew that they were going to convert a bathroom down here so in their scope of work for the Builder they had them add a exhaust vent in the foundation wall not exactly sure why it's not very tricky to start from scratch but they did so now we got to find it what we did is we just measured up from the edge of a window inside and outside so we know it's up in this area here so we're gonna do a little exploratory surgery oh yeah you can feel the cold air there we go okay so they got a four inch line coming through here and cold air is just a blowing so what we're gonna do is we're gonna pull some staples out of the electrical here lift all this wiring out of the way cut a hole and this now it's not against code to drill holes in this Aspen II now four-inch is a pretty significant hole but I would rather open up a 4-inch hole here and run my exhaust for that just because we're so close to the outside wall and these joists are really I've got extra joists up here I'm not even worried about it and we can get this up here like this I'll be out of the way so I'm gonna cut a rather large hole here so I've room for my insulated duct line to get through I'm gonna use this Diablo blade love the Diablo blades there's a little bit awkward at the spot but here [Music] I know a lot of you are wondering is it okay to cut through that I like a little so for the little exercise take take a find a spot in your house where you've got you can put a six-inch piece of two by three all right and then set it over that gap and then find out how much weight it takes to bend that two by three even even an eighth of an inch I bet you'd be probably safe to say it'd be somewhere in the neighborhood one to two tons the bend that two by three over six inch gap when we're doing structural number for decks for instance two by six will travel five feet a two by eight will travel about seven feet so I'm sure that I won by sorry a two by three can handle six inches like I said the sub floor above goes through the outside joist to this choice as well I don't have to be an engineer to know that this is not going to be a problem okay so now we're going to install our insulated duct line and they're all basically the same is just a accordion plastic that little table in the end will drive you crazy make sure you loosen that off restricts the size of the diameter of the pipe so you want to pull this solution the insulation for now get this up into your cavity we're gonna pull that through the hole and then we're going to slide this over top of that duct extension that's coming from the outside it's unfortunate you got these tight spaces you can't really work very well so this crimping tool is gonna make the diameter of that pipe smaller by forcing the amount of inches around that pipe into a smaller space by bending it Internet all right so now very insulated duct line will slide on top of that real easy we're just gonna make sure that our ring is opened up so it's nice and easy to work with so I've got my gear clamp slid over my Play exhaust pipe now so now I'm gonna stick my exhaust pipe over top there we go that is so much easier now that it's all done up like that slide it down as far as I can and then gonna try the impossible here and I'm gonna just tighten that on now if you're concerned at all about this slipping off you can always wrap up some vapor barrier and tape around a few times connect the plastic with the ducting there we go I've got the red and the blue tuck tape the difference being this one's good in wet areas so since it's better tape we'll use it in this environment I would recommend just cutting small pieces of about six inches I always fold over your chuck tape on the roll it's hard to get going again once you lose the edge so we got a couple of pieces of this son yeah we'll pull this insulation over and through and encapsulate the rest of that duct line right up as far as we can okay so now we've got a nice direct run through the outside so I'll sealed up screw in place then I'm time to get the pan so we're gonna be installing today is the new tone it's of a replacement fan but you can use it a new construction just as well this is kind of neat they've finally caught a product that they can replace that you can install with a hole in the ceiling that you've got left from your old fan so literally we can install this like an like a replacement fan or as a new fan which is awesome this fan is an 80 CFM fan 1.1 sown in the sound rating which means basically if you're installing fans the lower the numbers like golf the better the score it released how quiet the fan is now there are other fans on the market that are quieter if you're around one zone it's so quiet at that level it's not going to be an issue always when you're installing something for the first time check the installation guide this also come to the reducer to a three inch line if you have a really old bath line a three as duct exhausts will still be good enough for an 80 CFM fans which basically I should probably mention look at that little template in here if you can want to put on the drywall cut your hole in advance that's handy 80 CFM is any cubic feet per minute and what that basically means is you take the measurement your space your length your width on your height and that gives you a cubic feet of the bathroom and what you want from a bathroom fan is be able to clean it out in five minutes and the reason five minutes is so important is because all these little timers that are available in the market the smallest level is five minutes so if you have a shower in here and you want to hit the bathroom fan timer and hit five minutes it's the smallest one on the timer you want to know that all the air in this room has been exchanged and moved so that only moisture is out of this room inside that five minute period so we're seven by seven by seven we're under we're under 400 cubic feet and so five minutes at 80 is 400 so we're all good to go so what we're gonna do is we're gonna remove the fan from the housing should be this easy there we go that's a lot of weight this is just good to get that out of your way for now now when you're working with these things whenever you take a screw out of a fan or a hinge out of a door or a cover plate off of a hood fan while the screws in your hand put it back where it belongs you'll never lose it if you put it back in this housing has a hole in it so you can pull your ductwork through and then once it's installed you can then connect this to the ductwork and then push this back up into place boom boom and that sounds like a really good idea so we've snapped under a little plastic grommet here alright it's just a plastic connector from the electrical department they snap in you just push your wire through and then that allows the electrician to come back at a later time and do what he's got to do I like to leave the wire exposed a little bit for him and that way he doesn't have to get in there and crimp it afterwards so the idea here is you want to leave enough room for your exhaust to turn the corner [Music] run a couple mounting screws I'm gonna run my first sheet of drywall up to this point all right and then I'll be able to tighten these screws right down onto that drywall joint and that would be perfect the goal here is try to have a straighter run as possible all right that looks good we have a little bit longer run than we want so we're just gonna slice her the insulation so once you've exposed the heat a pair of side cutters wire cutters any kind of snip actually at work you got to cut that wire though cuz that'll just keep on unraveling on you and the same thing as we did at the other end we just pull back the insulation expose the ducting bring that into the housing all right there we go no this damper is going inside the fan position like this there's a backdraft wait hold shut it's upside down don't let all the air in you don't want that so make sure you put these in right there's different kinds and designs out there this one is oval so you got to bend everything to make it work and this yeah that'll work out awesome same process use your gear clamp on this send our exhaust is now over top of the boot we got our gear clamp in place we're just gonna tighten that up now cool thing about gear clamps so they weren't even on an oval assembly so that is kind of fun now the reason there's an oval assembly on this fan is because it's slim kind of housing it's designed to go into pretty much any space that you can find which is really cool and just to follow up we're going to again use this duct tape that is really good in wet areas just to help make sure that nothing is going to want to slide off the later date [Music] [Music] sometimes it's helpful sugar but now it's time to put our fan back in so we're going to pull these two screws out that we had put back in their mouth [Music] there we go all right well what's the electrician doesn't open this up and connected the wires then we just plug this back in and our exhaust is finished the only other thing you might want to do hmm is outside the housing where the insulated line comes in contact with the fan just a nice little touch pull it up nice and tight against the fan and then just start on top and come across the insulated housing and then back over top of the frame again just out hole dial that in position there we go installing a little bit of backing here so just to recap on this video it's a lot of work running a bathroom fan and doing it right so you first you got to get your whole outside bring in your duct line find a way to get your insulated exhaust line to that hole connected to your fan connect your wiring get the fan housing installed and get all of that done so that you don't have too many bends in your your housing so you want to keep nice and efficient if you have too many turns your 80 CFM will quickly drop down into 50 or 60 and it's not going to perform well for you so if you're a fan of our channel please subscribe I had to say it [Laughter] alright so the next thing we need to take care of when you're renovating your basement is the drywall it's time to close tape finish sand prime paint but all of these things we've put together in another how-to A to Z video just for drywall it's comprehensive it's over an hour it's everything and all my tips and tricks so what I'm gonna suggest is after the video is over if you have some time and you want to check it out click the link to take you to that video and then you can become a drywall master too it's titled a welcome back to the basement job we are taking a look at finishing all the flooring that's not getting laminate and it's not on a subfloor system so because we have our subfloor system that you've probably seen previously what we're doing here is we are recreating the same tile floor that's upstairs and we're bringing it down here so that we have a nice constant flow through the house you see the same flooring patterns emerging over and over again it gives you the feeling that everything was pre thought right is very intentional they didn't just go the store and find something and slap it in the basement so now this becomes an extension of the upstairs but what we do have is a different in elevation because we have subfloor and then on concrete so what we've done is prepared this concrete in advance we use the Eco prime grip from map high and that's a brilliant little product basically what we have is raw concrete that hasn't been painted except when they prime the basement originally they use a spray machine so there's spray powder everywhere and that is going to interfere with our adhesion with our cement so what what I did is I use the Eco prime grip and then I've used the protego this is an uncoupling membrane this is not a Detra product this is red not Orange so don't have to adjust the color on your screen this one is what you know the world would call a knockoff it hasn't been tested to the same degree for working in areas with deflection and that sort of thing but for me I'm comfortable saving a couple hundred bucks using this here it's on concrete and when you're building on concrete all you're really looking for is the elevation I don't need a whole lot of performance from this product and so I'm more than confident that's gonna work just fine so we prime it we put down the underlayment now we're we did this yesterday I don't like the tile right away cuz I seem that dent the cement as is drying so that today what we have to do now is we have to measure the set we got to map this out you can't just start a project in the fire corner and go left to right and fill it all in you need to think ahead where are my grout lines gonna be what's the pattern I'm using and where it is the square versus non square walls in the home remember this is a modification to an existing space so this used to be a wall we removed it this is existing from the Builder this is existing from the Builder and we just finished doing some measuring and found out they're not parallel so it's very key now that we think about how we lay our tiles so that we don't over emphasize the fact that these are out of line we don't want to have our tile finishing here with no grout line and then opening up to a grout line and going wow what a really nasty looking tile job so keeping in mind that people are coming down the stairs what's in their line of sight what is the most common traffic flow and then where do we want to have our grout lines and interrupt our grout lines how is it going to meet with the other flooring all these things we got to take into consideration so let's begin so these are our tiles they're 12 by 24 this is a porcelain it's a la Pedro so it's not not a flat it's not a gloss it's kind of like semi-gloss for paint it has a little bit of texture in it and it's really nice for floors especially if you're gonna be going in and out to the hot tub or coming out of a shower because it will give you a little bit of grip it also very easy to clean now the tile floor upstairs which is what we're going to mimic so that we have the same continuity here's an eighth inch offset pattern but it's not a brick pattern this one is a little bit different so I'm just gonna lay this out real quick so that we can have a look as far as what this is going to look like as a finished product all right this is the offset that they're doing upstairs okay so here's our pattern this is an eighth inch offset but this isn't a brick pattern it doesn't keep stepping down in a way it comes back again so what we end up with is two grout lines and then two grout lines with the larger space in the middle and this can be very beneficial for us so what we're gonna do is we're going to use our laser level that we've already established a line all the way down and we're going to just have a quick look at what kind of off cuts we're gonna get if we start in that particular spot so here we're fine it'd be nice if this was not more than half a half a tile yeah that's good so because this wall is going to give me half cuts but it's not square I'm gonna just measure from both ends make sure that I'm starting in a place where my off cuts I can use again and I'm not throwing tile away but I like this pattern I like where it's going down here I'm not going to end up with little slivers against the wall I might end up with something over here yeah I'm gonna end up with about a three inch piece there and that's gonna be fine but that's out of the way now if I do the same thing down here because that's on my laser line I can find my laser line put my tape measure down check my two-foot tiles see where I end up so there I hit the wall at one foot there I'll hit the wall at sixteen inch and that will relieve me right into my bathroom Wow that doesn't happen very often but I think that's gonna work alright so here's the secret when you're doing a tile job first you want to identify where your grout lines are going to be what the condition at the visible edges are gonna be like so you can adjust your main line for off your laser secondly also got to consider where you want to finish up so down at this end we're finishing up on a door it's a transition under door so it doesn't matter the conditions going to the storeroom over here we got an entrance to a bedroom door secondary it's out of the line of sight from the main living area but over here is the main living area the French doors leading into the great room now we're going from one type of flooring to another so we will have a cap transition but we don't want to end up with a piece where we have it like a 2 or 3 inch sliver there so what we're gonna do is we're gonna measure off from over there because I need to start way over here there's a two-day tile installation so today I want to do all the floor and then tomorrow I want to do the shower and the rest of the bathroom floor but I need to have tile going into that room so I have something that I can stand on wall infinitely on space so my tile is really kind of odd it's actually 11 and 1/2 inches including my grout lines so it's not a true 12 by 24 so I need to measure right from where I want to finish down to where I want to start and then I can establish my line okay so I come down here there we go there's 19 feet I'm gonna make a mark and I'm gonna do my math so I have 19 feet minus half inch per tile okay so there's 19 tiles and a half an inch half a 19 is yep nine and a half so mate your wine is nine and a half inches so my mark minus nine and a half inches is where my tile will end and then I can go back 11 and a half this is where my first tile is gonna go now I'm gonna just get my square bring it down here off the laser line draw my mark and then I can start tiling okay so this is not too difficult but it live paying attention going on here we got our square we got our laser line we're gonna build the entire floor and that is actually our grout line so our every tile that we have going down here well every other tile is gonna touch that line so I'm measuring off putting the lift square on that line with both my fingers perfect and I have the other point here with my measurement that I put down just a minute ago and I'm gonna just draw my line with my black marker make sure I am good to go there we go and that's where I'm starting so just a quick lesson on how to mix your cement but first where to buy it I use mat byproducts because I go to a local wholesaler for tile and flooring products the company name doesn't really matter at this point but the point is this my bag is mint this is a LFT large format tile cement and when I buy this bag I believe it's like sixteen or seventeen dollars if you went to the local hardware store to buy this bag you're looking upwards of 35 to 40 now to do this type of cement on that type of tile for 12 by 24 you're probably gonna get 60 or 70 square feet per bag so in a project like this I'm going to go through five bags of cement you can do the math that is about a hundred and fifty dollars you're gonna save and it's better in your pocket now what you want to do start off by adding a little bit of water ends up being about 20 percent water give or take no depends on the tile setter some people like more or less this particular batch is a little warm I only have access to it from the hot water over to you know overflow from the tank so I'm gonna have issues with my cement drying quickly on me so once I get going I got to move fast okay good so because it's warm water I've got to work quick I'm not gonna make as much willing to make a half pail I'm using a slow-speed mixer it doesn't rotate as fast as a lot of the other like VSR drills and this is designed for cement and for mud mixing so already I can tell it's gonna be a little too stiff you want to add water if you're gonna add more at the very beginning of your mixing process once you're finished mixing it needs to set for 10 minutes before you use it if you add water during that time you're just drawing your cement [Music] there we go that's what I like to see it's got some ridging some peeking it's holding its own shape and yet it still looks nice and loose okay so once again for the DIA wires out there we're using a half inch by half inch trowel it works very good with the large format tile cement and the idea is we want to fill up these holes that are in this in order to transfer the contact point from the stone right down into the concrete underneath if you don't fill these or have a bunch of air pockets and you run the risk of cracking your tile and I used my trusty little cheapy cut tile cutter from building store I always put a nice wheel on it and it works just fine when you're installing this way I want a two day tile install I'll almost always just go for the square footage on the first day so I'll do my square cuts I won't even pull up my grinder I won't do do details around the doors and that sort of thing I won't pull out the wet saw until the second day I don't like to set it up and clean it up twice so here we go we're looking to fill up these squares come at it from a couple of different directions make sure you don't bury your line you can see you will end up going through a lot of cement so what we're gonna do I'm gonna just try all this out real quick and then I'm going to knock it all in the same direction so that when I'm putting my tile in I have a nice consistent underlay there now because it's a large format I'm gonna steal a little bit back better my tile and we're gonna place this down on my line opposed to be there and I'm gonna check for my laser level I'm a little too far over perfect a little bit of pressure slide it to my line now in our last tile videos people have commented all you don't have enough adhesion anyway so with one of my viewers listen why don't you lift the tile and show everybody there you go the industry standard for floors is 80% this is about 97 I ought to be just fine there we go there's our corner stone no I got to do is the same thing over and over and over again till the floor is down so flip this box there clip basically it's the same science as all the clip systems they break off you just place them underneath the idea here is you just get rid of the extra cement that's in the area because you don't want to have cement popping up between the joints now some people use a margin trowel I'm a little old school I just like to have one tool in front of me all the time so I use that trial I always visually inspect your corners make sure that things are good remove packaging like this and this is usually installed with tiles that have a some sort of a polished finish on it to protect it from scratching during shipping once again I'm gonna back butter we'll lay that in position and about a quarter off put some pressure and push back to collapse the ridges okay nice I'll go this way and this way we'll go both directions just for the purpose of the camera now I usually try to put those wedges in my fingers first but here's the basic idea the clip goes over top here we go sorry I'm on backwards and you just squeeze the wedge through the clip causing compression and it should create a nice flush surface [Music] [Applause] [Music] approximately there we got 8 inch offset there we are and pressure and I will collapse my ridges now the only thing I'm gonna do differently is I gonna move away and I used a different tile clip system [Music] you see this works pretty quick [Music] here we go this is for everybody who's been sending me messages about my PPE gotta use eye protection I got this from that crazy Russian hacker I love his goggles [Music] so for those of you who've never done this before this is a continuous rim grinder so if it touches you it'll burn your finger it won't cut your finger off which is lovely the idea here is stone is somewhat sensitive especially when it's porcelain and I know people get upset when I call it stone but it's a bad habit you want to cut all the way through on each end and then you want to basically plunge cut here so that the weak spot is going in both directions so if it does break turn cutting the piece that you want to keep stays intact [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] here we go inside corner very important to make sure your clips are pushed all the way in guys basically that's it I send for the techniques we're going to scratch the corners we're going to fill in as much of this as we can without using it on the grinder so we can get a lot of square footage done today this will allow us all the room we need to be able to walk around and finish the job tomorrow so today I'll be about a half day we'll put down 150 square feet or so and come back tomorrow to finish this off max isn't available tomorrow so you're gonna have to wait till the final reveal probably to see the town [Music] welcome Jeff remodel my design a build here again today gonna show you some tips and tricks on and doing finished carpentry for Windows what we have is we got a builder window with the Builder Jam this Jam came to the extent that that's what came with the window they screwed it in here you go unfinished basement now it's up to you to finish it so there's two options one we can rip up the jam that's here or we can just extend it so what we're gonna do is just extend it it's a little simpler production we don't risk damaging the window so just gonna start we've got to clean off a little bit of this extra plastic out of our hair here make sure your site is clean because what we're gonna do is we're gonna install a little bit more of the same three-quarter inch pine alright so as long as I can see what's existing I'm gonna be comfortable that I can install the new one we have to custom-make four pieces of trim here because you can't just buy this standard you want to finish right to the surface of the drywall so what I do is I take something flat across the corner I'm gonna measure and make a mark of that depth and here we go that is three and three quarters make your life simple right out right on the frame okay and that'll be the same mark for that depth on this piece of wood end this one we're gonna take the same measurement here it is the same and the reason we got to do all four corners because when the builder installs the window they're in a hurry and they're gonna just make sure it fits it's in the relatively the right location and a lot of guys are especially with basement windows that put it on an angle so that it helps to drain the water don't ask me why I think the windows are built to drain anyway but if you get it on a twist here you go this comes three and a half or its installed crooked this way it's still gonna look fine from the upside so going to a seal it's gonna function properly but you can't finish it by going to the store and just buying wood and this one still half so reality if it was all three and a half I could just go buy a piece of one by four that's three and a half inches if I do that now I'm gonna have this corner over here I'm gonna have big gaps it's gonna look like garbage so what I do is I usually buy a bigger piece of wood usually I go one by eight and then I'll just rip all four pieces nail it together and then I'll have it perfect every time so what we have here we have our thickness of our wood we also need to have the actual dimensions so we'll take an outside dimension of the window outside of that jamb to the outside of the jamb is 55 and 7/8 we're gonna add 1/8 for each side 56 and 1/8 ok so that what we're gonna have is our pine is going to come just a little bit inside and it leaves me a place to put caulking because whenever you're ripping wood down and going from different dimension you can't use the table saw guide your clear cutting by hand so you're gonna need to add some caulking so make your new window Jim just a little bit wider than what it is now and they don't find that very easy here that's an actual 23 and a half so we're gonna go with by 23 and go 5/8 because I want to keep it flush as I can on the bottom all right so now we got our numbers we're gonna go to the table saw we're gonna cut all of this lumber down and then I'm gonna come back and I'm going to assemble it for you so you can see how to build it and stick it in the hole [Music] [Music] all right so now we've got my lumber cut just wanted to show you what I've done is I've marked it all so I got bottom top left and right side so I'm going to build it like I'm outside the building looking in keep that factory clean edge down there there's the top piece okay right and left very important we get that proper at the right and the left well that cuts so good I can hardly tell which one is which all right here we go and the reason we want to build it like this is because the floor is relatively flat so all the factory edges will be flat and that'll be the surface that some of the other side of the drywall will put the casing so that keeps all of these elements proper you can see that when you table saw on an angle freehand it's not always perfect it doesn't matter because we're gonna be caulking that joint anyway so the most important element here is what does this look like when the casing is comes in contact [Music] square it off now all this together very important by the way when you're using this kind of nailer I'm using a two inch nail don't have any fingers or anything within two inches of where you're nailing these things have a tendency of having in their own mind they can just fire off and well you don't want to have a finger there on a nail pops here okay so now we have this we're just going to make sure that it's nice and square [Music] trace of mark now I'm going to measure for my casing so I've got outside measurements sorry inside measurements is 22 we want to put an 8 to top and bottom so we're gonna go 22 and 1/2 now you want to add the thickness of your casing times 2 we're using three and a half inch trim which is beautiful so that seven says 29 and a half inches and then we'll do the same for this side check the inside measurement 54 7 8 now what I'm taking that measurement I'm adding them a little bit about an eighth on each side so that my casing comes shy of the edge again so that I've got a joint there that I can has a nice clean finish add the 7 inches again so MUP 261 7/8 alright I love using shims as a note pad we'll go cut all four pieces of trim and come back and install it [Music] okay so now we have all of our casings cut we're gonna take our jamb extension flip it upside down and we're gonna nail all this together now so the reason I'm doing it this way is because walls are incredibly uneven even when you frame it yourself and do your own drywall there's always little imperfections so what I found is if I build something like this first and then I install it my joints are always perfect so what I do is I put the glue on there second first at the perfect joint set it with a nail all right now I always glue my joints first because wood does suffer the effects of expansion contraction especially in a window and the other side of the house so if you put glue on what you're doing is bonding all that together so grows and expands together and you won't suffer all that crack and if you usually get the window trim over time and the reason I try to do this on top of the box because I've had problems before where I've nailed it all together I'm against the subfloor and like I've talked to both those Brad nails they fire off in different directions they go right into the floor and then you get stuck to the floor or the phone rings and somebody calls and they and window glues to the floor [Music] [Music] okay now I'm gonna put my window position go back consistent yeah [Music] start in this corner now [Music] whose square off the frame underneath [Music] tagged in so traditionally with this kind of wind installation you build your dam you install the jam you shim around your nail it all in place then you add the casing but the reason I like doing this is it quick and simple no one's ever going to be crawling out of this window and so I'm just gonna build up my shim pack now on each side when I stick my window in place that's gonna sit on this my gap should be perfect and then I can just nail it all in place all at one time there we go let's see if we know what we're doing [Music] I'm pretty damn pleased with that max I'm about you using two inch nails fires right through your shoes and into my 2x4 wall [Music] [Music] so we're gonna trim off a little bit of plastic that's sticking out all you've got to do now let's take your and gun concur with GAAP your gap fill your nail holes your edges and then paint [Music] you know I'll show a couple of tips now for how to install baseboard if you're using wood it's a quality product it's gonna see something like this 3/4 inch thick you need to know how to use your tools properly when you're working with stuff like this or you're gonna end up with a really bad looking job when you buy economy trim the really thin stuff colonial lots of molding you can basically cut that square stick it in a corner put in a cocking line and paint and walk away but when you're working with stuff like this you really got two choices you're gonna have to either miter the corner you're just putting the 45-degree angles on or you're gonna have to pull out the coping saw and trace your line and cut it and then fit it over top of the design on the wood I like to miter my corners and then still rely on some caulking but I like to glue my wood corners together again expansion contraction I'm gonna show you a couple tips when you're working with thick wood because wood has a tendency to not be straight so what I do I'd take some Scrabble throw it on the wall right away that's what I'm building on whenever I'm working with wood like this I want it the same thickness off the floor because that materials available nice and easy I'm gonna put the flooring down I'm also gonna have a base shoe that goes on so I don't have to worry about the gap and that gap is really convenient for me there has a little bit of come-and-go with the bend in the wood it's still gonna look amazing keeps your base put if you buy a six-inch trim you don't want to put in your floors and only have five inches left so install it off the ground when you get started gives you a room for your floor to expand and contract underneath that trim and then you're not restricting you know the the flooring from and causing buckling so I'm gonna go take a measurement for the whole length of the wall right now there we go this wall is 118 and a quarter I'm gonna cut it at 118 and 1/8 because no room is ever square no corner is ever wonderful and where I measure is by ly beneath with a mud joint on that wall so if I cut from drywall the drywall it's gonna be too long then I'm gonna have to be jamming it in okay so we're gonna adjust our saw just to carry the weight of that wood we've got one 18 and a quarter was our actual measurement I'm gonna be cutting the board down to 3/16 smaller than that to account for the mud that's built up in the corner and that'll also give me the opportunity to make any adjustments that are necessary on the floor when I'm installing the corners you were gonna see when I put this all together cutting it small has an advantage okay now I'm using a 10-inch compound miter saw not tall enough for me to cut this way because my trim is actually higher than from the tip of the blade up to this Arbor here so I have to cut it on an angle so my saw has an easy adjustment make sure your gates out of the way your saw can pass freely and all I'm gonna do is I'm gonna run it right down here to the end keep it flush so I already know that when my saw passes through the wood it's gonna go into the hole in the sauce so I lined my wood up right off the edge here okay and this is a great tip for people who are learning this for the first time you'll see that there's a little bit of meat left but none of you know exactly where that blades in to cut so we're gonna pull it forward just a little bit perfect so once you're comfortable with your saw and where that blade is gonna go to I know I'm going 1/8 past the that line I could just set it up right on the edge perfect ready to install so when you're putting this in be careful at this point your walls are usually primed and ready for paint you don't want to be putting holes everywhere okay so here we go like I said it's a little snug even though I took 3/16 up it's amazing how much somebody builds up in those corners there we go so now you're set off the ground great for expansion contraction in the flooring when you're installing your outside corner now take that little block spin it around takes picks up both corners okay always measure and check things first that is beautiful no you can see that gap looks pretty good but if I was putting a nail and put pressure it's gonna open up the hole so what I can do is I can put a shim in behind that and then I can manipulate these baseboards just enough if I want to have a little bit more manipulation cut and break the shim open up the gap put the thick side down underneath and that can give you even more ability to manipulate it now when I put that nail that's not gonna move all right best part about that is now you can open up this board again use some glue on the corners okay not too much just enough to make contact that's it where you want it find that happy place again trim all that other way so that's the process you're going to need to use almost every corner because every corner has the same phenomenon you're gonna have two pieces of drywall meeting if you build the room perfectly square good for you but then as soon as you put mud on the wall you wreck that so you're always gonna have this concave action in the corners so having shims handy to nail your corners when you're using big fat trim like this will help guarantee your joints are always pretty glue them first because you can't get in there to nail them together and then once you've attached this side we using the same technique with the shim all you do is just fill in the gaps and keep the baseboard straight socket and you're good to go so a little tip went through your pneumatic nailer don't press too hard it's gonna make a dent when the nail goes through but if you press too hard even the guide here is gonna put a hole in the wood end up filling two holes instead of one just another quick tip when you're putting your baseboards on I always like to do it when I primed the wall before I've painted because I want to be able to this joint and then I want my paint to be covering the caulking first with the wall and then cut clean with the finished paint when you're nailing when you have drywall surface you can actually see your framework because you're gonna have spots on the wall where the mud is over the screws especially beside the electrical boxes you know where your wood is so you just line up you're in your 16 on centers and it pulls nice and tight again when you get to the corner feel free to nail that in you manipulate the other side to close the gap the way you need to when you join that piece of wood hi I'm Jeff from Otto I design and build I'm here to give you a little tutorial on how to install laminate flooring we're talking about a medium density fiber or high density fiber laminate traditionally this came out it looked like a picture of three different pieces of wood it's developed a lot over the years and now we've got something that looks like wide plank board flooring now this is at or lease flooring product is a fabulous quality the joints in this click lock together and are really tight you won't see gapping over time there's a lot of products on the market a lot of different price ranges anywhere from a dollar square foot up to five or six so you get what you pay for so if you have a ten-year project and you're just looking to make something clean so you can sell your house by all means you know go to the cheaper end but if you're doing a new build like we are we're expecting this floor to last a long time this is gonna be a 30 to 40 year floor we're also installing a bar on top of it so we can't cut any corners with the quality so since we're not cutting corners of the quality we're also using a high quality under pad this is a very thick piece of rubber it also has a vapor barrier on it it's always that vapor barrier on underlay flooring this product here is good for basement floors and residential use if you're really laminate flooring and you're in a situation where you're like in a condo or an apartment you have to get a different flooring that kills the sound there's a sound transmission rating on that under pad it's a little more expensive but generally speaking if you go to a wholesaler you can get this kind of product for under 20 cents a square foot it's not a big expense so by all means get the good one if you go to the building store you're probably gonna pay three to four times as much but don't ever cheap out okay so the bottom of the pad is the gold side has an adhesive strip so that when you do the next joint you can tape the pad on to this little bit of leftover foil so I always install the pad in the right direction so that you can add the next layer [Music] basically we just roll it over and cut it to fill the space now this room's a little dusty so we're gonna get some footprints how awesome is that all right so the way I do it is I just push it to the wall find my mark roll it back to me cut both directions get that out of my way I'll just fire it underneath the drywall for now so it holds it all right and we're good to go so the basic tools that we need for this project are pretty simple you should have it your tape measure pencil a hammer this is what most people don't have the cutting tool dun dun dun this is the next generation in laminate floor cutters it's also good for commercial vinyl tile this thing here has an extension on the arm multiplies your leverage so it's it operates like a guillotine principle it's just crushing in the gap and it snaps the board right on the cut line the cool thing about this is that one person can operate this without having to get up or down and it creates no dust this kind of flooring if you're to ever work for the before and you're using your size crazy amount of dust so one of the biggest drawbacks was you always had to cut outside or you had to wear a mask or you just got sick and got a sinus infection and we all learned the hard way but this tool here is worth its weight in gold I think it cost me about four hundred dollars it's been through the mill a few times here still works haven't had to sharpen yet I have nothing bad to say about it I'll give you a demonstration because I'm gonna need a little piece to start with here so when I'm starting my floor I want to cut just a first piece about five or six inches off done and I'm gonna use this as my nailing block okay because you're gonna find that installing this flooring is not an easy task we are gonna go from left to right if you're doing this alone I'm gonna recommend that you start with first and second row with a half offset so cut your board in advance no need to measure okay there we go just like any other kind of flooring you want to have pay attention to your aging which is where your joints are meeting up now traditionally this locks are nice and simple right he's just lining it up and give it a wiggle clicks in place you heard the click that's the sound of a good installation you can see we've got this installed so that slides underneath the baseboard we don't want to start against the wall right away I want to start out here let me show you why if you're working alone or even if you have somebody with you this can be real tricky you'll see a lot of guys do this they'll put that side down there this also clicks together all right and they'll drop it in and then they go to the next piece and there's a bit of a conundrum because this type of flooring is not a lay lock system I can't just drop that in place you'll see that there's a tongue here so the way that this works is that this piece actually has to be backed off a little bit you've got to force it down and then you got to drive it into the gap from the other side when you're starting off by yourself trying to keep things square having this board here is in your way so don't do that keep that out of your way you want to work back and forth on your first and second row we're gonna cross your room important to note traditionally you'll find that people like the look of the flooring better there's that click again if you're running the grain along the longest wall in the room know that piece that I cut off for the very beginning I'm gonna lock that in now I take my hammer boom that is a really nice tight fit I'm never gonna have a problem no I take this board the benefit of this tongue and groove action is that it actually locks from both different directions ok so you got it nice and tight put your weight on it oh there we go beautiful alright so now we've gotten to the end of this wall I want to take my knife out and trim this on their pad back a little bit and this is just to keep the noise down okay so it doesn't matter if it goes all the way to the wall or not it's okay to be shy and this here is what we're do this isn't facing the same direction when you want to measure your cut you want to do this by eye alright so we're at the end we want to get our piece make sure the time the room is all facing the same way then take it and turn it around so now you're gonna be measuring the actual gap with the same piece of what that's gonna be cut and installed there and since nothing in this world is square you want to take the shortest or where the contact is with the wall and Mark the floor to be cut within the quarter of an inch of that now because we're using 3/4 baseboard we have a lot of mercy I mean I can have this floor come from almost an inch from the wall and it's still gonna get covered by the till I'm done with all my trim but for a good measure I like to leave about a quarter of an inch there for expansion contraction take it over to the cutter put your mark right where the blade comes down crushin and now instead of trying to hammer it in like this you can just drop that in this piece however is gonna be a little trickier because you have no room to get the hammer from the end so you have to hammer this direction this time no and every time you cut a piece start the next row with the offcut sit your product save your time here's our piece flip it around make contact with the wall come back here measure cut and be careful all the time not to chip the corners it chip the corners that piece is no good to you nobody wants an ugly piece of floor in the middle of the room no like I was trying to show here I can't just drop that in I don't have the room for a hammer what I can do is the same concept from this side I can drop that to there okay don't know when you're working with us flooring keep an eye on the corners on the backside if you have debris and it gets caught in these gaps and you force it in you're gonna be breaking everything apart your floor will open up on you so put this down lay it in place now we take our hammering block put your weight on this other piece of wood see that that's not going in very nice up against the wall now after you have about four or five rows done take a minute and pull this forward out from underneath the baseboard and then move your flooring from the other side of the room where you have it stored pile it all up on the floor that'll put enough weight on it that when you're hammering those end pieces in it won't be sliding around anymore and it maintains that gap that you want underneath your floor and around your perimeter try to keep a half inch gap everywhere you go and your floral lasts forever now really all you need to know now is it's gonna take about an hour to finish this room not bad no dust no mess hardly any garbage and it's gonna be brand new beautiful so if you've enjoyed this video feel free to contact us write a comment down below if you have any questions hit the like button we'd like to know if you like it and by all means if you haven't subscribed to our Channel please do we've got a lot of exciting things coming up a lot of great material that we've built in our library so have a look at that too thanks for watching hi Jeff here with max again today today we're going to talk about something that might seem a little overwhelming but I've got a great little hack for you to make this simple I'm talking about installing crown molding so in this environment we're working in this basement we have some mechanical runs we built some boxes we only needed two so we designed this whole shape so I've got an elevated ceiling now in the hallway so the way we're gonna finish it we didn't tape it because we're gonna put crown molding from corner to corner close all this off and this is really kind of simple what we want to do is measure of course the inside length of this box 67 in the corner yeah again it's very similar to doing baseboards you're gonna have tape joints you can have things moving around go a little bit smaller use shims on the backside to close up the gaps and then you can the rest to finish he'll always have a nice finish if you your gap versus trying to force things in okay so soon did you start forcing things together that don't quite fit your alignments gonna be off it's gonna look ugly so leave a little extra space it's good for you know sixty seven and a quarter that's one of our first measurement I'm gonna show you how to install this I got the cheat sheet for you so the material reason today is a finger joint pine pre-painted very simple line it's not colonial it's very modern and we're not trying to draw attention to the style of the molding but we just want to have that if you can see that up at the ceiling there's the visual that it's gonna get nice and simple scoop and addresses it up alright so before I get into the cheat we have to cut our measurement measure once and then read the measurement twice okay watch yourself there pencil line and what I'm doing this because it has a weird shape you know generally you do enough work on the saw you know where your blades gonna cut just leave itself a little open your first cut make as many adjustments as you need until you hit that spot bang on okay because you don't want to get this wrong know the world of miter saws it has the ability to fold over and cut in different directions when you're doing a crown molding traditionally you have to do a double compound miter you have to adjust this table angle and the saw blade angle there's a chart you can use that chart to do all that or you can go to the store and you can get a 95% quality job as a homeowner using one of these og cuts okay simple it's listed here interior exterior cuts this is the top you simply put that on the saw place you material into that guide up against this here that sets it at 45 degrees this is the ceiling so the the top or this is gonna be like an inside cut except the SATA 45 in the same way we were cutting the Inc length all right because now this is perpendicular and that's where the angle should start so I can start my saw and I can just creep along like that until I find that perfect spot done same thing switch to the other side okay I gotta come over here cuz I'm right in and if it helps it all you can put a little pencil mark where that corner is when you're finished just inspect so you see here that didn't go right to the corner there's a little flat spot there so we want to actually put that back on this off and just trim off a little bit of a hair again make sure you're holding this nice and tight to the fence holding the pressing with tights of this guide so you get your angle right there we go now the reason this is a ninety percent solution is because this plastic guide isn't gonna work perfect for you for the average homeowner this is going to save you a lot of time and money this piece of wood fits and that we didn't cut it too long and I push your left and right and plus or minus an eighth of an inch all right now let's take a lot of people make as they'll stick this up here they'll roll it around oh that looks good fits perfect they'll nail it in but what you want to do is take a short off cut piece with the same cut on the other side and put it up against the ceiling look at that that is not how you want to do this so what you do is you roll that piece of wood slide that one in now that's the place where you want it brace that one lose that piece of help mark your line I remember you haven't cocked or painted yet so this isn't gonna hurt I'm not worried about what's going on at the other end I'm just gonna get this in fashion first so I'm gonna take that down now generally speaking when I'm doing crown molding I love to have my teenage sons help me because they're tall and they don't need a ladder but it's nice to have someone holding things in place for you if you don't have that luxury what we need to do and I see this all the time honestly the reason that pencil mark this is so that I can have put my cocking on the wall and on the ceiling in advance I had so many years you get calls people oh that never the crown moldings cracking it's all falling apart and what you find this guy's cheap they come up here they nail it all together those little Brad nails they don't use an adhesive they use a surface cocking line here to finish it all off and they use the kind of cocking that doesn't have any elastomeric property at all which means it doesn't expand and contract so the woods moving around but the cocking isn't and there's not enough there to bond it to the surface so what I like to do I like to put some cocking just inside those two pencil lines okay and if I put too much that's fine we're gonna move it out of the way we haven't painted yet anyway now I'm gonna place this right on that sweet spot between those two pencil lines and then I'm gonna pull up my nail gun generally speaking I don't have anything to nail this to there's no wood anywhere I'm going so I'm going on that angle and I'm going on that angle that'll hold it okay now it's in place and we got to move a little quick here so now I'm going to take this piece I'm gonna do the same thing in this corner as I did in the other one and I'm gonna roll this around till I find that happy spot which is right here and I'm gonna pencil mark it as well great I'm gonna open this up a little bit [Music] again same tip here don't press too hard with your gun try not to make too much of a dent all right and then just make sure that you're staying your lines if you go out of your lines your next piece is gonna look ugly pull the cocking along the same rate that is coming out give or take all right I prefer the dry finger technique instead of the wet this is silicon eyes cocking and I don't want silicon in my system it's not healthy for you all right there we go you can see that finishes off really nicely note do not use caulking to fill your nail holes it'll shrink and it'll show something fierce you want to use something on here like like a dried X product or even and I got a drywall compound something you can swipe in leave a little bit extra there and then use a sanding sponge to take off later when you paint this you want that to look like the surface and never been blemished if you use caulking it'll shrink and dry out and then you'll have little dents everywhere and the way the little light works in the room and the way this is curved it is gonna scream at you someone did it themselves so here's how we want to do this we want to measure for the next piece right to the wall and behind the trim in the corner okay over to the other wall and if you couldn't pick that up on the tape it says 46 and 5/8 now I know from experience that's gonna be a little bit tight so we're gonna go 46 1/2 just take a little bit off so that it's going to fit race again we'll go to the saw cut both angles in advance and we'll come back and set it on [Music] again holding everything nice and tight now here's a trick I don't know if I've ever mentioned when you're using these saws I always get the blade running before you go into the meat get your maximum rpms up before you start cutting your likes done the life for your blade and it won't start burning so much to chain we just want to make sure that I get this corner here I've rolled roughly in the right direction here this is what I'm talking about it's the ninety percent solution right this is why I love this when you're buying a wood crown molding every one of these pieces that goes to the mill it's gonna be a slightly different I don't know why it drives you crazy but the width the curve the thickness at the ends the details every single piece is just a little bit different and it has something to do with the amount of wood it takes to cut this out it's just the way it is so no matter how meticulous you are about lining up your corners there's gonna be a problem so get them as close as you can and then you just gonna have to be really good with your cocking so here I'm going to demonstrate my point here's the piece I've cut to install here alright and I line this up and my lines not bad it's close here's the piece we cut as our template much better still not perfect same saw same tool same corner different piece of crown it's never going to be perfect [Music] nice - gonna cocking business there [Music] yeah very important if you have an a misalignment issue you can maybe force it together a little bit by pressing that quarter in and rolling it down if that helps they get told you earlier there's not a lot of wood up here to be nailing in to throw an extra couple of nails might be enough to help close it up a little bit tighter for you this is where being up with your and gun who's gonna come in handy I'm just gonna clean up our excess here [Music] I'm not sure how that looks on the camera but to me it looks not bad no I want to come back again here tomorrow and check it again because like I said this stuff will shrink so give it 24 hours come back and check it again don't be in a hurry to paint this let it dry overnight come back do another fill if you need to but here's the rule in construction generally speaking if you can see the defect from six feet away from it then it's a defect if you can't then it's wonderful so we're not really in the business of making things perfect for the make business of making things look good enough from a certain distance call me crazy but that is going to look fantastic from your distance a few more coats fill the gaps paint it up beautiful great cheap saves you a ton of time you don't have to hire a carpenter you can crown molding your home I wish to make it look absolutely gorgeous for just a few hundred bucks oh yeah if you liked this video and subscribe to our Channel we got a lot of great things coming up or hit the like button I like to know that you like it does it no matter what kind of videos to give you in the future [Music] today we are installing a custom glass sliding door system for a 5 foot shower now it's not custom glass in the respect that we didn't have a glass guy come and measure this to order but in the fact that traditionally I'd say 90 to 95 percent of the bathtubs in this world are a 5 foot with tub so a few years ago the market started creating replacement products so you can pull out your tub put in a new tub or just a shower pan and this is where it got real popular the 5 foot shower pan you see them in building stores everywhere now you even see them in another retail outlets and you can buy a shower pan with now a sliding door kit that looks pretty darn sexy it comes with a solid fixed panel and overhead rail big you know stainless steel chrome rail rollers looks pretty good generally this product runs around eight hundred to a thousand dollars there's varying degrees of quality and that sort of thing brush nickel chrome but for the most part anywhere between an eight and a twelve millimeter glass you're gonna get the same result it's gonna keep the water out of the rest of the bathroom and it's made of tempered glass so it's not a safety hazard so what I recommend is go for the eight to ten mil glass products instead of the 12 a 12 mil product is really heavy then recently we installed one that was available for sale at a local store and it took four grown men to carry it upstairs so if you want to do this yourself which you can we're gonna teach you how by the smaller glass eight the ten mil and you'll be able to manage that on your own no problem so before we get started let's open up the package and see what we have all right well it's Christmas let's open this box up and see what we have okay so this shower door comes in two different boxes thank God it's ten millimeter glass so it's really easy for two people to carry you're not gonna be sweating it out and risk dropping this bad boy like I was talking about in the intro if we did a twelve millons there's a lot heavier and all of the product was in one case just nuts I don't know who designed that but they should be shot so here we go we're just going to confirm I'm looking for the fixed panel yep this one's got the holes drilled in it so this is my first panel that's good and then over here I'm on with the actual door panel just like Fort Knox don't pop here's all the rails that I need so interesting I need to take out some of this in order to put into some of this well I better get set up and organized so here we go we are ready to install our glass door but first thing we do is we've identified the parts in the box found our hardware kit and our instruction manual you know you've seen me on these videos probably reading instruction manuals like this yes yes yes yes I got stumped on this one a little bit this is a new installation usually on these glass door systems they have an overhead rail and you see in this diagram here there's a bracket that goes attached to each side of the wall and then the rail goes in the bracket but my experience the bracket has got a little piece that's attached to the wall and it slides up and down the rail put it in place you slide it over your allen key it together that's very nice it's a real pain in the butt this looks like a real simple installation so I'm glad I read this or I would have been a little bit confused moving forward I always take the time you never know someone might invent something new some day okay if you've never installed this door kit before here's step one well that made perfect sense there's not a whole lot of instruction here other than a couple of diagrams so if you've never done this before you really need to watch this video because this is not gonna do you damn bit of good all right here we go [Music] always carry your glass from underneath and don't assume that just because it feels like you got a good grip you're gonna be fine alright so this is the door the first thing we want to do is get the door in the room it has to go into the back of the shower you don't want to try to do this when you have your fixed panel and your overhead rails installed all right Nate so what we're gonna do is I'm gonna go high you're gonna stay low we're gonna try to keep the glass vertical like this as much as we can and then bring it into the shower so I'm about as high as I want to go I'm gonna put my hand on the ceiling and game we're gonna go like that a little bit of support there okay bring right around onto the foam now we've got a tarp on the floor just for protection for the shower pan and those foam blocks you're a cheated and I put the little corners in my pocket Nate when we're doing a shower we're gonna put a fixed panel from here attached to the wall and then the door slides from behind on an overhead rail if this glass isn't in here before we start you saw how a little our space was to begin with because we have a drop ceiling can you imagine trying to squeeze that inner never happen by the way in case you forget this is Nate you probably remember him from the deck project that we did hello roll footage and so he's joined me for the summary game which is awesome I'm glad to have him back we're gonna teach him how to do some of this installation I've put about 20 or 25 of these glass door systems in so far in my career they're all basically the same the door goes in the back it's not in the information by the way that pamphlet doesn't tell you to do that no that would've been painful all right here we go so what we've got to do is we need the chrome rail the new channel that goes against the wall yeah and we're gonna need our drills which we have the drill bits we're gonna need the hardwood case thank you go get the chrome rail in the Harvard case and let's get busy all right big chrome okay mm-hmm so just as a note if you're doing a new bathroom install you'll notice I haven't put the finished pictures on the wall yet I haven't even installed the toilet yet your bathrooms are a little tight on space so if you can do your glass system before you put all your other fixtures in it will be to your benefit you need all the space you can get to maneuver around here so according to the reactions and it's been to be the same everywhere we need to attach the U channel to the wall when we frame this generally speaking we make sure we always put framing behind the wall if you don't have framing plugs will work but make sure that you're attaching the backside of this with two sided tape and or silicone so what we do is we just hold the U channel up again the wall will pull up the level in a minute but first I just want to generally mark where these holes are going to be okay so this is a sliding door hardware so generally this goes down here my glass goes into here all right and then the other door slides in and here so what I'm looking at is I need a measurement name of how far from the outside edge to the center of that hole here where the glass panel goes so from there to the center looks like it's about a half an inch but maybe five-eighths no it's about engine half or inch and a quarter okay so the center of this hole with a pencil is center of that hole from the outside edge oh okay and let's make sure it's back in position there so there we go the center of that hole so it's more than half an inch super 9/16 or something stupid sure okay so then what we want to do is make sure the center of this is 9/16 from that edge okay so let's also put some tape here because the more you make things level and square and think and from the beginning more likely your won't screw it all up okay but you make tape measure over here we're gonna mark 9/16 put on the tape please there we go there's 9/16 that's the center of my glass wow that is really on the outside edge that's where that has to go so basically what I'm doing I have my 9/16 on the rail now put this 9/16 which represents the center of the glass put it up against my tile make my pencil work where I'm gonna be drilling a hole okay and then I'm gonna be putting tape there the tape is because I need to use a level to make this mark properly okay there's my 9/16 I have to drill okay and now I'm gonna put my level on there Nick can you make sure that I'm on level this yeah you're good and this is one of these cases where you don't want to just be close you want to be right on the money thank you the benefit of having the DeVault drill here is that I have a hammer drill function they call me crazy but I love my hammer drill phocion generally speaking when you're using the Sun a bit and there are two bits actually I've used I'd like the glass and tile bit it looks like a little spatula so as a point and it doesn't run around on you this kind tends to travel when you're drilling a hole so you got a kind of really brace yourself and then hold the drill against the wall get a couple points of contact and you want to start your hole just underneath your pencil mark [Music] I know once you get a nice hole that'll hold it steady Wow that's noisy here's the other kind of it looks like a little Spade tip on it it's carbide tipped that should do a good job just as well the difference is these only tend to last so long you don't want to overheat them so you might only get two or three holes drilled with something like this but if all you're doing is that one shower it's good to go loving that that is the tough tile whoo holy that is some strong a stone Oh ladies and gentlemen so these are about nine bucks times four forty bucks that work they're really good for ceramic but this is a really hard porcelain want to use the other bit which is about 40 bucks same ones I forget one that's gonna work over and over and over again cuz that's just maddening hey president so I had a problem today I was how did my silicone that I usually use my new flex so pump up a bomb we had to go to the hardware store god help us it says French one resistant in 30 minutes not bad I guess if you're really in a hurry to get it wet it's a 10-year mold resistance microbe and Technology kitchen bath blah blah that's nice silicone always needs to be pierced make sure you do that or you will make one heck of a mess trying to squeeze out the tube but it'll come up the back end alright so whenever we're working like this we'll put silicone in the hole first a good measure for sealing up that hole before we put any screws or plugs no thanks thing if you have wood in behind then you'll be fine if you don't you want to use a plug if you do I use a plug squeeze that in the silicone yeah right there these plugs they're about the same thickness is my stone and wallboard lovely so like most manufacturers they use these Philips bits real pain in the butt Philips bits don't hold onto a screwdriver with the darn so free thread your screws with the hole because you can't hold your metal bracket and your screw and your drill all at the same time now this is really easier to do if you have really skinny fingers but you want to do is hold the screw top on the drill bit like this and then insert it got it so once you have your rail on that establishes where your glass panels going to go and the end of your glass panel they have this little attachment here's a few different varieties of this but in this case this one slides over the piece of glass there's a little cap here you can pop off and put a screw into the shower pan I'm not a big fan of that I would prefer to use silicone and two-sided tape for all these applications just because if you buy custom glass all of these accessories that's all they're gonna use silicone and two-sided tape why are these manufactured glass systems always want you to put screws through your shower pan and then risk water getting in there and start to go black and gunky and it's you just don't need that so what we're gonna do is we're gonna just cut a few pieces of the trim that we have they're like they're like little pieces of rubbery gasket and we're gonna use these like a silicone shim for leveling off the glass panel and check the pen angle of this it's about one degree off and you want to get this door on as square as humanly possible now the doors themselves will adjust the height the way the roller sits on it to close against the wall but if you can mitigate some of the you know the variances by having the door panel itself perfectly level it just makes the rest of the installation so much smoother so I suggest to take an extra few minutes here make sure your glass panel is in as level as possible before you move forward and that you're gonna need some of these little rubber shams same rules before you want to keep the glasses vertical as you can and this is more of a one-man installation here so we're gonna come in and then you're gonna let go so that I can drive I don't watch the ceiling in the floor at the same time use your shoe okay you can see I've only got a few inches of clearance up the Rasila here so I'm gonna use my shoe and use that to slide this glass into place all right we're glad we don't have a toilet here yet I'm gonna bunny hop it up onto the rail no no what will you do this lift it up and stick the corner in the gap first all right I'm gonna just slide it over nice and gentle like I'm just lifting up the corner here putting in my hey you got that yep putting my little shooting package in whoa remember you had that yep thank you okay so down right now yeah slowly okay that is almost perfect so here's the secret and I know this is gonna blow your mind I take my shim pack Nate can you lift the glass please Hyup just a touch you know when I move it over a couple of inches set it down mmm BAM so here's the deal the closer your little shim pack gets to the corner the more the whole glass will rotate and will go in work so for the do-it-yourselfer if this is your first time doing one of these doors there is a step that you can do here and turn this into a two day installation you could at this point so look on the wall silicone the floor let this all cure for 24 hours and then come back and install the rest that makes life really simple then nothing is guaranteed to move but if you don't have that luxury of time you can believe it or not and use a little bit of tape keep everything in place while you're finishing the dough it's amazing how strong tape can be just put it on both sides basically you're just taping the glass to the shower panel creating resistance now the glass won't move around okay there we go let's continue on we've got to take our rail and attach our hardware here this is the part that goes in the glass and you can always tell which side goes in the glass because it comes with all these little plastic covers that separate the metal right that way you don't have to contact with the metal in the glass to avoid chipping so the screw holes are in the instructions so many millimeters over so many millimeters down I hate that sort of thing I am more of a visual person I like to do a rough rough in make sure I'm comfortable with what I'm doing so that's exactly we're gonna do I've worked with different systems some of them come with a little l-shaped square on it and you can set it on there and Mark the holes that's brilliant but this system doesn't have that so what we're gonna do is we're gonna put this Hardware in here and just fuss around until we find that sweet spot there we are and we're not going to tighten it all the way up yet we're just gonna place it in so this particular hardware it's comes in two pieces very nice now these are just decorative covers okay not necessary to put those on right at the moment but just visually they'll help keep you in check now I need the other one to go on this side okay all right so that what this happens you can see this little bracket here and on your left side of that bracket there are two screw holes and the bottom is going to carry the weight of the bar all right and so all you're gonna do is you're going to set up the level you're gonna slide this over and you're gonna screw that to the wall in order to do that we have to take our allen key in this particular case which I thought was in my pouch and there it is and we're just gonna reps mate we're level is and tighten the allen key to it so it doesn't slide off okay so now that I've got both of my ends tightened to my bracket I'm not attached to the wall yet obviously this isn't tight either we want to level it off before we mark this thing okay so here's the key this is a little torpedo level it comes with a magnetic side you'll notice that with stainless steel it kind of works yeah kind of to prevent damage don't trust it it's also very sharp so even when you think you're level it's really hard to tell now that's a really good quality torpedo level but the longer the level the more accurate the reading and you'll see that according to this one I am out so even the torpedo level said it was perfectly level and it was wrong bigger is always better so what we're gonna do is we're gonna just trace the outline of the pencil I don't want to use a marker here like I said this is a lip a toe tile so it is porous trace all these first and then we're gonna take all this hardware off and we're gonna come back and drill these holes and then melt these brackets in the exact position that we want them just go to mark and we go and then we drill four more holes we'll be back in a minute I like to use the back of my tape measure to put my plugs in the wall is rubber solid gets the job done doesn't break anything you'll see there that I'm pretty much exhausted my ability to put that plug in some up against the wood I'm just a little bit crazy I like to go a little overkill okay so we got to set our bar in position and put that through the glass so you end up with this somethin scaring waiting three points now now that we've got this in this final resting place my allen key in there there is a hole in the side of this and you use your allen key to tighten it up like a wrench brilliant it's a quick recap now we've got our fixed panel in place and we have our overhead bar secured and in place so every structural element of this is done from this point forward what we're gonna do is we're gonna hang the door make the adjustments and then add all the finishing trims just to keep the water from getting out of the shower and then we're basically done so what we're gonna do here is we got to take these wheels apart so it's it's helpful here to have an extra pair of hands alright so I've got my wheel and my little plastic gasket here just to keep all of the metal from being in contact with the glass it's important here there's a wheel but the hole is offset alright so when you turn that for adjustment you're actually raising and lowering the glass and that's the other side of the nut so you put the nut facing outside and then you put on the nut hold the nut and just spin the wheel till it's finger tight keep your decorative cap side because you won't need that until after you're done making all your final adjustments do the same on the other side right turn nothing packaging sure Hey plastic mm-hmm gray which side goes in yeah don't Hagen I'd not hold the nut onto the thread and then turn the big wheel big fingers babe and that's why you want to move the big wheel there we go yeah it's important you're threading something like that go in reverse until you feel like catch and then go forwards you know cross thread it right is it snug not gonna fall off that's good yeah okay here's the moment of truth ready mm-hmm so we're gonna use two people here we're gonna lift this onto the rail okay so like your job will be to make sure that both of these are going onto the rim okay my job make sure that the bottom glass goes into that little gap there okay at the same time all right so we want to bring it up and then just drop it in place and straight down okay so you take care of visually on top I don't take care of visually on the bottom okay are we good we're good and down no nice we're there we're there good then we're in our slide Hey so this system here has got these little brake system built into the hardware snug as a bug in a row that's nice that's a great little catch that's it force against the glass yourself and all right so all of these gaskets they don't apply with any adhesive no silicone just it's a compression fit they're also available for replacement parts if you go to your local glass shop anybody that has eight or ten or twelve milk laughs will carry these in stock so if you have a kit that requires you to cut them to size then you make a mistake just go and get a new replacement they're only a few dollars they're in stock and that way you won't be disappointed with the final result when you're pressing this in just be really careful this is it's a very rigid plastic so if you go too fast you'll end up burning your thumb creates in a lot of heat some nice and easy so these gaskets are designed to keep the water from getting out water generally is a problem at the bottom of the shower not the top which is why we didn't use silicone in the screws mounting the top row you're not gonna get covered in water up there so once you get to your bottom establish really well you go ahead and finish all that off really the last step for us here is just to put our little bit of brackets down here in the silicone this is our drip edge this is just a little threshold that they were designed goes inside the doors for any water dripping off the glass it gets redirected back inside the shower and then we're done we just got a silicone and walk away so now that we've got that in place the reason to put those on first is because this particular system doesn't have a guard on the boat on the rail some systems they have a little bumper here so we open the door boom it stops there nice and shy you're never gonna have contact with the wall this one goes snug right at the wall call me a little nervous but I want to make sure I got that little protection and over here this system again there's no there's nothing to stop this from going all the way and except that the brick here and because it's a new system to me I didn't want to take any chances so now I got something nice and soft for it to land on kind of those pieces this wheel here is designed and this is gonna be crazy and we'll adjust these in a minute so that when the necklace threaded on the door can't lift off the mount that's simple so if you grab the handle and you give it a bit of a lift it'll bang into the rail and it won't fall off that's all that is it's just for safety and push okay in the kit you're gonna get one of these little wrenches depending on the kit there may be more than one wrench but here what we've got is a really interesting situation this door in spite of our best efforts is just a little off level we're gonna put this wrench on okay about this place for you to see really you know see the glass rise up and down we want to go down on our end over here as much as I can it's amazing this one little adjustment well there is such a huge difference and then we're gonna take our wrench in the middle little nut and tighten it up so we're gonna lock that spot in place okay because we like the way that that's sitting we don't want to let that chain we tighten that nut in place now please if the decorative table so we had off earlier we'll just throw those on now we need a door handle of course same rule applies you're gonna want to put one of these pieces of plastic gasket on each side there was a set screw on here with the set screw facing down and again so good to have three hands so the last part is just to put your trim on the base this is just water deflection so this is not a real big issue we're gonna just add some silicone to this piece of plastic that receives the door okay really important here slide the door over let the door dictate where that should go and slide it away again this last little piece here goes outside the door we'll go under that trim alright so what I would do I would use it like a straight line just to mark where it's gonna go this product will work for me [Music] ever so gently does just put the difference all this left now is take your clear silicone use a nice mildew resistant product it's gonna last for a while go around and make a nice seal anywhere where the metal meets the tile or the glass meets the acrylic base and just close it all up with the silicone remember this sort of a system is not a waterproofing it's just a water diversion so as long as everything that the water is going to be touching while it's following gravity and heading towards the drain has sealed that it won't start creeping back underneath even the edge on this base has got a probably a two degree slip everything is being diverted back into the drain so what I like to do is seal up the outside first and then once everything is all finished then I'll go back in the next day I'll seal up the inside and silicone all of my shower cause I still have all my inside around the sealing and around the base to do but then your shower system is done most of these units follow a similar principle there might be little adjustments here there remember the steps are simple lots of measuring do a dry run have an extra pair of hands and you'll be able to do this yourself too weird we're gonna teach people how to install a toilet today but more than that it's new construction so we have a ruff in from the prints or the home builder this is the rough-in from the home builder and we've got a pecs water supply line that we're going to crimp down to the wall from the backside after we're done today basically what we do is we've got to turn the water off rule number one it's important now because this is charged we're gonna cut this line put a shadow up valve on it this is actually a pair of trim scissors I use this when I'm installing quarter round or shoe mold I can actually just run around a room with this and cut the angles for all my little pieces of wood but it advertises a cuts pipe to sir about to find out I just got an old pail here there's gonna be some water and water pressure so we're gonna just give this a cut there we go you don't have the right tool for the job have a good tool for the job at least that's a lot safer than using a knife there we go I'm going to cut this back a little bit where I don't see any compound or anything on the pipe so this is a sharkbite shut off pal okay basically what we're do is we're just going to push this and twist it onto the pipe and then they have this decorative little cap here as well before we do that we're gonna put on a cover plate onto the pipe you can always get a cover plate that goes on afterwards called the split pipe flange I like using these cuts are choices gee alright so just put this on twist [Music] and done so we can clean all the mud off that pipe okay one of the advantages of this system is that after you install it you can still adjust this so you keep from getting a kink in the line a little feed to the toilet [Music] that becomes kind of a cute little system we just installed the shut-off valve in a brand-new construction text-align and about six or seven seconds and you can't do that with copper you'd have to solder that drain the line and dry it out and if you're a homeowner and you're running away in your own hours this is the way to go so from the backside you just put on a little clamp nail that into place hold all this nice and tight we're gonna be good to go yeah we're moving on to the toilet the plumbing rough-in has a three-inch piece of pipe here for the toilet so I went out and I bought myself this handy little ABS saw I got this a couple weeks ago cuz I had to make an adjustment in a ceiling for a vent stack it was just kind of nutty today I could only reach in there with the long saw like this to get to it so I thought this is great this tool was only like nine dollars so if you're doing a little bit of plumbing at home and you're looking for a good way to cut bite this is a really small fine-tooth saw it cuts the ABS instead of melting it a lot of tools out there will melt it and just makes a hell of a mess but basically what you do you bend the saw blade kind of hold it to the ground and we're just cutting flush all right take my knife clean the burgers okay no this is my flange it's a three inch inside pipe flange for just such an occasion hey can you grab me a coffee cup please all right what we're gonna do so we're going to glue the inside of the pipe and then we're gonna glue the flange okay taking very careful note where these rectangle holes are not to have them at three and nine o'clock that's where the bolts start and then you want to move them so that's that nice and tight and then when your ball goes in it'll slide in a position and they'll be locked there when you take your toilet these little rectangular areas here to allow the Bolton access so make sure you position your flanges on your good spot thank you and of course until we're ready to go all the way get through the sewer gases so when you're doing your toilet in salt want to make sure that you've got all your bolts and nuts and your decorative caps because this is something you want to install before you put the brass nut up okay very important if you try doing that first installing the toilet adding these later you'll be sadly disappointed with the performance this actually snaps on and this design does it snug to the toilet so you have to install this piece before your brass nut okay we're going to install and put our wax ring there okay take the nuts off go don't let it go down the hole in the toilet lowered down these little things here agree they just attach the thread and they're designed so that once you put it in position you can pull up on the nut like that and it'll hold it standing up tell me when you're putting on your toilet that's really it takes a lot of the guesswork out of the way you do this is actually from the front hold the bowl like that straddle this whole situation I can now carry the weight on my elbows they can hover over the toilet and visually make sure that I'm getting that bolt and each one of those holes and then just follow that down and now I want to put the same kind of pressure on the whole toilet surface the entire time I'm pressing down and sometimes the best way to do that let's just have a seat ah perfect important to note you want to put your medal your little metal washer and then you put this now I don't know if the camera will pick this up but on the top of this they actually print the sign this side up you'll see it this way it's like the roof of a house you want that there because that's actually what the toilet bowl covers going to go over top off and that's how it snaps on and then you put on the nut Nate you wrote upstairs and get the grinder with the little cutoff wheel out of the truck place so every time you buy a toilet bowl it's too long they make it long on purpose generally speaking they make them so no matter how many layers of flooring somebody's headed to their house they can attach a toilet so don't ask me why but they go a little bit overboard here it's two and a half inch toilet bowl if you end up needing a toilet extension in the kit they have three inch bolts so it'd be nice if just one somebody would make a toilet bowl it was the right bloody size and it's on the toilet in a normal situation so I'll show you how to use the hacksaw to do this first because I don't expect everybody to have a grinder with a metal cut-off wheel but basically this is similar to drywall you want less pressure but lots of movement okay I mean you are only cutting brass here after nice and control because you don't want to break the toilet and if it's a little bit too loose just tighten up the bolt again snap that babylon blow up your dusty because they go so the alternate method is pull out your grinder with your cutoff wheel this works great too and it works in a jiffy [Music] oh yeah so now we got our tank Thank You Nate yeah this is a little gasket Vinglish what's on the end roll that sucker on make sure it's contacting the toilet the entire area around its pushed on as far as it goes and then all we got to do for this particular model I should mention sometimes your toilet companies out there that make these bowls that you'll slide in and you have to attach to the tank first and then put it on the toilet so double-check your directions I always double-check their directions sometimes people do these little weird things that you want don't see coming set it in place we're dropping these in their holes the idea that this rubber gasket under compression creates that watertight seal okay so here's my secret for putting on the tank bolts hold the nut in your hand set the washer on top of it like that reach down and hold the bolt study and set it in place go backwards until you feel it grab the thread go forward I don't know what is of the toilets but every bolt seems to be so bloody long okay that's where there's one company in the world somewhere in Thailand that means nothing but thread of bolts and they do it for the whole bloody world and so there's all these different sizes they make one universal toilet bowl yeah between making the toilet bowls over there probably a billionaire you want to tighten that until your tank is nice and secure okay here we go yeah the other thing you want to do is install your water supply these lines usually come with a big sticker here this sticker nobody wants to see that never around and we just thread that on to our three-eighths just be careful when you buy your shutoff valve that it says 1/2 inch and 3/8 you can get a 1/2 inch quarter remember that 3/8 is the typical water supply for toilets and faucets where quarter-inch is the water supply for a fridge line you don't want to get the wrong one because this will make a 15 minute job take a whole hour because you got to do a return trip to the store [Music] there you go once it's snug take the wrench put a couple of turns into it bring your water supply up okay now if you were looking from the back side of that it's actually turning to the right okay so it's it's actually turning clockwise if you can imagine yourself staring at it from the floor it's important always look at it from the position of staring at the bowl and then you'll know which way to go there's the advantage of this shutoff valve it gets to be installed rivers comfortable like I said now that that's done I'm going to go and clamp that to the wall Nate goes and turns the house water back on we're going to pop these little caps from the back side because this bathroom is being used kind of as a in the event of company and it's downstairs and around the corner and down a hall I wasn't concerned about a soft close but just a word of caution if you're going to be installing it toward the seat in your lawn suite or the main bath and there's a lot of people around just invest in the soft clothes if you go to a plumbing supply place it's about twenty-five thirty-five bucks depending and then you can't slam the lid and wake anybody up when you're done so again this is just another 1400 inch bulb for no particular craziness click turn and turn and turn and turn okay dear Lord the guys that make these bolts I'm gonna finger tight and then we're gonna tighten these bad boys down there is a rubber gasket on this someone say over tighten it is it'd be good to go snap your covers in place that sounds like the water's on and a quarter turn shut up out it's gonna have a little bit of air in line don't let that scare you and there we go make sure it's functioning properly so what we want to do now is wait to make sure that the water fills up the tanks should be marked with the waterline everything is working properly it'll stop filling if it doesn't stop filling this is your adjustment on your flute okay so you can loosen it or tighten it to adjust how much water you have in the tank this particular tour that's our low flow and then go down to one point one gallon per flush which is almost nothing [Music] love me some water conservation here we go right out of the factory to the waterline gotta love it so just a quick shadow to the pro flow company these toilets are available from woolsley Canada I'm not sure if they're where made available anywhere else but great value they have a the largest p-trap and available in Plymouth and the lowest amount of water available in toilets and now they're even quiet too [Music] in today's world we're using a lot of new different materials to finish off of our our kitchens and our bars or our vanities and one of the real popular materials now is the live edge slab of the tree now this one here is two and a half inches and it's nine feet long and it's made of ash and in our part of the world we've had something called the ash borer beetle which has been eating the way between the bark and killing these trees off and so this is actually a piece of dead tree that was cut down and planed and turned into this countertop so although we're using a whole lot of wood it's something that wouldn't have a purpose otherwise so we're repurposing a dead tree to make a countertop very cool so the way we install this countertop originally is really quite you know creative came up with a little system using wood dowling just a few bucks at the hardware store and this is seven eighths and so what we did is a bite of a drill bit just a little bit bigger okay so this is fifteen sixteenths and it's just a little bit bigger so what we can do is we pre-drill holes in the wall that we made and on the back side of the countertop fill them both with glue invert it hammered it down with our hands and that's how we installed that with some temporary supports so my system for installing these wooden countertops is very basic you don't need a whole lot of tools or skill what you need is a one piece of one by four something that uses a straight edge in this case we haven't leftover piece of hanging rail from an IKEA kitchen and this works great because it has lots of contour guaranteed to be straight I'm all we're gonna do is just lie these down we're gonna measure this off the back of our counter is almost eight feet long and the lumber is exactly eight feet long so we know that when we're screwing our dowling in if I line that up with the edge of my counter top I want to have a one inch overlap so I'm just gonna place this where I want it get my spacing and I'm gonna fasten the one by four to my slab here and I've got to leave enough room on the other side for my backsplash alright we're temporarily screwing this in place up against the straightedge to create a nice straight line because it's hardwood it it's good to have an impact driver there we go there now it's straight so we're gonna take our drill bit which is just a little bit bigger than the dowels that we're using my counter is this long my one inch overhang will be two here once we've got this prepped we're gonna be able to cut the countertop off but I don't want downlink too close to the edge so I'm just gonna back it up a little bit we're gonna go somewhere healthy like eight inches from the edge okay I'll mark that spot and I want to have about eight of these so I'm gonna go every 15 inches so what we're gonna do is we'll just mark off 15 inches now that we know it's gonna work up here 25 60 inch and we're gonna drill a hole through our 1 by 4 where we want the dowling to go and then once we start into the hardwood we'll stop and we'll drill that hole out in a minute okay [Music] [Music] then we're gonna remove this then we're gonna flip this over invert it will flush with the end knowing that the holes will line up leaving the countertop an inch longer okay I want you to hold it here and here again where the screw is and then I'll manipulate the wood over here into position so then I'm gonna manipulate my wood to straight there we go now while my dad legal lined up alright so I had my assistant cut me a bunch of these little pieces of the dowling an inch and a quarter and he's using the palm sander round off the edges just to make installation nice and sweet we don't want to have to be fighting to pound all the holes in now an inch and a quarter half of that of course is three quarters of an inch so three quarters of an inch from that tip is the depth that I want to set the base at what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna set this tape just a little bit above 3/4 on my bit so that when I'm drilling it acts like a little marking flag alright and this is just a great way to make sure you're not going too deep and going right through into the courts that would be bad [Music] okay now we're using this 1 by 4 as our template so it was on the countertop we flipped over installed it on our wall and now we're gonna mark into our plate with the drill and this is a self fit bit so it sticks out nice and deep we just want to get that center hole now we remove our 1 by 4 and finish drilling our holes again we have the same depth set with the tape the trick here is go a little bit deeper than halfway where the tape line is because we want to make sure that we have room for the glue to be on the top and the bottom and the countertop sit nice and flush this is a software that we're drilling into it's a lot easier there we go so our design is now 95 inches plus an inch overhang on each side which is 97 we're gonna do as I measured and Mark that and I'm going to take my 18 in the ninth transfer that information here so we can cut it square and we're gonna cut the slap before we flip it over because we're using a skill saw which cuts from underneath and if we cut this way we're actually cutting through the finish side of the counter that'll keep it from having any splinters and splits and tears if we install it first and then cut it we run the risk of tearing up the top overcount or just before we're trying to finish it and that would be bad and I'm gonna be cutting this tree from the side that's not falling off so that the saw doesn't run any risk of binding somebody needs to hold the weight but not not let it twist towards me just one [Music] so now all we want to do is be generous with our glue pillar haul but one-third pull that'll guarantee contact the worst thing that happens here is it squeezes that and you can wipe it up with a red rag no such thing as too much in this scenario you could definitely not use it up and put the dowel in the the wall that we built okay as opposed to the counter type [Music] and flap get it in position where's your name okay lifting this side please very careful and I've got a couple of set screws here [Music] now I just grabbed a couple of two by threes put adjustable feet on them and a little quick little mending plate so that I can make some temporary legs and down just put some weight on that one there you go [Applause] there we go okay just a real quick note once you've got finished nice and sanded there's no raised green just double-check your edges I mean the edge of a counter is always gonna be dangerous to a certain degree but sometimes and these come out of the planning machine the edges are so sharp that if somebody who is short was the bump into it they wouldn't just bump into it be sharp enough to actually split their skin open trying to take care of the tots well that's about all I can show you today we're using this barring table finish by vera thane it's a two-part epoxy resin finish which is amazing it gives you that real thick glass look when you're done just like you see in some of the pubs and restaurants you've been to we're gonna wait until this finish is drying before we start working on the surface and we're also going to be installing you know your classic black metal bars for some additional support we're gonna put them about halfway back and bring them to the ground with a threaded rod that way we can adjust it before we screw to the surface and that's gonna work wonderful that'll give me a little peace of mind knowing that people are putting weight on here that they shouldn't be here dancing on the counter no one's gonna have an injury if you'd like to see this finish all you've got to do is click the link at the end of the video you're gonna have an opportunity to go and see the whole project video itself we're gonna have all the finished pictures and camera angles and sure you can enjoy that as well we're looking forward I'd love to hear your thoughts on this kind of finish put some in the comments below if you've got a better product or experience using something different that you've got a favorite product by all means I'm open to suggestions I'm just using this because this is what's available in my local building store I'm open to suggestions so that's it for today thanks for joining us and again if you enjoyed this video click thumbs up button if how important is for that interaction and if you have any questions leave a comment below I like to answer all of them still it'll be about a hundred thousand subs before we have to start getting other people involved to help answer those questions but for now I'd do it on my own and I'm up every night taking care of that so we'll see you next time [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] well we are finished and when I mean finished I mean finally finished what started off as a pretty straightforward project to finish a basement space kind of took on a life of its own as the client started to see it unfold and expand their vision and came up with new ideas so originally we had designs for just a small bar in the corner and every time we took another step around the corner the developing in this project the bar grew and grew and grew and we had to get designers involved and changed our expectations we added these awesome elements and now what we have is something that is absolutely specked and echoed this is real showstopper here so we have a live edge countertop we have our quartz countertop I can believe it or not all of these cabinets are from Ikea so shout out to them thanks for that they actually function really well in this space and we were able to modify and do all of our creative products with it it's not worked out well loving in the bar top this is an 8 foot by 8 foot bar now sits in the middle of the space so hopefully this would be big enough to satisfy all of their entertaining needs but as you can see behind us the lighting in here is brilliant it's not even very sunny today but this this is a main floor kind of environment even though it's a basement because it is a walk-in and because of that it deserved a little bit extra attention a little bit more detail some really quality finishing and so what we've done is replicated everything from upstairs and brought it downstairs so we have the sills on the windows and a nice big thick trim very very modern look so we're really pleased you can tell as you walk around the flooring is actually awesome this is at or lease floor this is a laminate floor product but it is really high-quality incredibly durable has a great texture fits nice and tight together and so if you're looking for a floor for your house I would suggest this this stuff is amazing of course the double doors are in and the bulkheads are all finished and the space is huge wide open and even though it's a basement with the drop ceiling feature it doesn't feel like a cramped space you have nothing but room here so I'm really pleased though the clients are happy I know the crews happy to be done and I know max is happy that we're filming so so one of the things about this bar that we love is the fact that we have so much space between the wall and the cabinetry when you're designing a space like this it's not enough to just squeeze it well you want to make sure that your funk your features function properly got lots of room alright this is a big enough bar there could be more than one person back here so you definitely need the space and remember when you're doing a project like this the last thing you do is you always make sure you shove a bottle of champagne in the fridge free of clothes little surprise so as we leave in the main room and heading into the hallway by the way really loved how the tile floor turned out again hats off to the granite tile leveling system for helping us with that really important to note here in a basement you really need to make sure you have the nice wide hallways open for you a concept so we've changed the design from the original plan that had bigger bigger bathroom and bigger spare room and made wider hallways so when you come down into this level this is not a basement feel this is just a different level and it is awesome so we're gonna head on into the bathroom we're gonna show you how we finish that off so one of the things we changed is the original redesign of this bathroom it was a typical 5 by 7 so it'd have been shower tub vanity door a little bit of walkway and that takes up about 35 square feet so what we did is would change the design and we went with a 6 by 7 and made it more rectangular so when you do that you end up with the door in the middle why opening in to an area that seems a lot bigger and you're not so cramped I hate those five by seven bathrooms and so what we did is by changing that we actually made the hallway a foot bigger and stretch the bathroom this way and took over a little bit more in the storage area which wasn't really necessary because I had tons of space available there this way this bathroom although it's still tiny it feels rather large you're not claustrophobic and there's room for a couple of different design features you can put accents and different things in the room and you're not gonna feel clutter we have a simple little vanity here a built-in storage shelving unit may function as a guest bathroom so that way they can load it up with towels not have to worry about things and then the shower is basically a system it's a five by thirty inch sliding door kit the overhead shower rail this is really nice work so fantastic simple tile wall and again we're using our pro flow system in the bathroom shower wall this is a one valve and it only has one control but we put it on the adjustable slide bar so no matter who you are this is real easy to function it's just thumb control and then you can move the wand and then wash the shower down this is about as basic as it gets but it's very elegant and very stylish remember when you're designing a space like a base whether you have low ceilings the secret is lights lighting lighting lighting lighting everywhere okay that is the key so the LED pot light is a brilliant way to do it because these are installation afterwards you can link extra ones into the system after the fact if you need it once you start with an LED light you can add 15 or 20 on the same run because they don't use a lot of power and they don't generate heat so like for instance in this area here this is basically just the hallway and that's been widened out and we have a nice four 36 inch door going to the storage area so to facilitate storing anything moving in and out without damaging things over time but up in the ceiling we had a similar situation if you remember that old Victorian kitchen that we did we had heat run city going on in this area so this is just off the furnace and we had to hide that we had to hide this we had to hide something over here so we ended up just creating this whole box ceiling effect but to tear and doing the crown molding put in a couple of clown lights and so now instead of just a bunch of boxes in the basement without any purpose and they look kind of in the way we've created this ceiling effect where this looks like a design ceiling that's done on purpose to create this effect of height and I think it's beautiful it's a great way to solve a problem so thanks for joining us from this marathon how-to video everything you need to know a tizzy to build a basement now if you're a home renovator and you're just looking for knowledge and information and techniques and processes then we have other a-to-z videos for you we have our deck series we have a bathroom series and we have more coming up so check out our playlist down below comment on these videos if you have questions relating to your project we'd be happy to answer them for you and looking forward to seeing you next [Music] you

Channel: Home RenoVision DIY

Views: 1,308,748

Rating: 4.8264675 out of 5

Keywords: home reno, basement renovation, how to finish a basement, finishing a basement, home renovision basement, basement remodel, how to finish a basement cheap, how to finish a basement yourself, finishing a basement diy, finishing a basement start to finish, basement renovation | a to z, basement renovation diy, basement renovation start to finish, home renovision basement framing, basement remodeling ideas, basement remodel diy, basement remodel start to finish

Id: RIzNQhfVFWA

Length: 198min 42sec (11922 seconds)

Published: Sat Nov 25 2017

Reddit Comments

[u/ionfury]

Just started, is he going to show me how to get those windows underground?

[u/okron1k]

“Oh neat let’s check it out”

notice the video is 3+ hours

“Pffft.. I’m not watching that whole thing, but I’ll still check some of it out”

hour and a half in

“wtf why does he have a black eye?”

Needless to say, I subscribed. Also, my favourite quote from the video: “You’ll always have a nice finish if you caulk the gap”.

[u/CdeoD]

Ok I like what I'm seeing in almost everything except for a few of the techniques used for the plumbing - code differs from region to region but I saw a few cardinal sins regardless of your location. Not to take away from this wonderful work but unless you're a licensed plumber or have a decent amount of experience underneath a licensed plumber than it really is something you want to call an expert to do. Plus it leaves you off the hook if something goes wrong because you also made sure who performed the work is licensed and insured.

You don't want to encase all your pipes in the concrete to find out something is not vented right and you have a massive amount of gargling because the drains are choking for air. Think of putting your finger over the opening of a straw in a glass of water lifting it out and it holds the water - lift your finger and it empties; plumbing systems operate under the same principle. Venting is one of the most overlooked yet most critical & complicated operations in a drain, waste, and vent (DWV) plumbing system.

Everything else is great and he has a lot of tips and tricks that make it apparent that he knows what he is doing. Especially with the tile work and carpentry as well as his knowledge of how buildings and structures have a mind of their own, and how to properly avoid problems in the future by having the knowledge of what to anticipate.

I learned a few things and its nice to see how people do other things, because generally no one way is the only way. Regardless of all of this I mostly upvoted because of the DeWalt tools. Team yellow all the way.

Thanks for sharing!

[u/climb-it-ographer]

His whole channel is outstanding. His drywall series is extremely informative, and he does great work.

[u/grainbeltflier]

I’m a half hour in and I had to decompress. This is amazing I’m going to watch all 3 hours right now. The dudes killing it.

[u/bradford108]

Random black eye at 1:30:00

[u/Colterguy]

As a carpenter I hate these videos, dont get me wrong its a great video and the guy knows what he's talking about but if you think you can do a pro level job after watching a video your going to make expensive mistakes snd end up with a sub par finished job

[u/absurdbluebird]

This makes me want to quit my job and become a carpenter

[u/eNaRDe]

I just spent 2 hours watching this and it is now 2am where I am at and I need to be at work in 5 hours :(