DIY How to Renovate the Tub / Shower from A to Z

in this video we're going to show you how to do your own DIY bathtub and shower renovation and save a ton of money [Music] so the first step of any renovation of course is demolition now that's a fancy word for take out the old stuff so what we've got going on here today is let's just talk real quick about some safety equipment I got these awesome gloves of the color of my football team it works your also if you're a homeowner you're going to want to get maybe some eye protection working with this tile when you're working with it and you know you get a shard or you're gonna get cut edges you want to make sure you're being smart about it another good thing would be to get a mask a lot of the reasons will rip on these bathrooms out is because we got molding behind the walls this is an n95 mask it's for particulates this is especially good for dust and mold spores and that sort of thing so you buy three of these for ten bucks and that lasts for the entire length of the renovation make sure you make that investment and if you don't own a fancy pair of gloves I grabbed these from the store today these are five bucks this is a leather palm leather backing on it great investment if your DIY or one size fits all so suggest those as well now before we get into this let's talk about the process demolition of course is just the removal of what was installed in the reverse order and if you follow that advice everything will go well but before we get started real number one turn off the water I know that you have control you can turn off the valve and all these wonderful things but you never really know what's behind a wall so to protect your home and your investment just turn off the water and open the taps at the top of the house and open the taps at the bottom of the house train out all the lines and get rid of the pressure there we go we just hear the air rushing so we're cleaning out the lines now we know when we renovate we're not going to be able to cut a line and have a pipe burst on us so if we're ripping out the bathroom you need a few basic tools here one is the tub remover tool you can find this at your hardware store plumbing department about ten bucks a screwdriver to turn it a couple of different bits usually the Phillips head and the flat head is about all you're gonna run into got your drill and you're gonna need your allen keys now most of these tubs here they have a set screw in the bottom you can't see it it's in an awkward spot but you need to know what's there so you don't drive yourself crazy trying to thread this ripping off the wall until that set screw is released you can't remove this so why don't we just start there this is a Delta system it's an imperial system of course so this is a 5/32 bit and you got to go underneath here so we go to this side usually at least this time though yep all right so now you can see it on camera it makes sense right that sits right in there no you can stick this in a whole lot of different places and be very unsuccessful so be patient with it turn it a little bit so you feel it sit in the seat and then you can give it a turn there right of course we have the shower valve usually these handles have a decorative cap on it and you can just use the screwdriver to pop that off but it has a set screw as well no that's out of the way there's usually a couple of screws on the plate these older model systems always have surface screws the newer ones there's a wall plate that gets mounted and snaps in but that makes that simple so now you all can be removed without interrupting your plumbing okay secondly we want to remove the overflow in the waste usually just one or two screws here the idea here is the plumbing behind the tub is gonna stay in place when you remove the tub so you have to disengage the trims here so that that can happen so here's my fancy tub remover tool and it has got two different functions on this depending on the size of the tub this the short end goes right in there nice and snug over the crossbars and then what I do this is a layout screwdriver across the top push down and turn counterclockwise now in the older tubs because it's steel they usually just use plumber's putty to put these on this tub strainer basket is so recessed my tub remover tool is abuse zero useless not gonna help all right now I gotta have to show you another trick so that is amazing that's the first time ever my tub remover tool didn't work for me I'm not sure what's going on with this but you know not everything is created equal right so we got a couple of tips that might work for you you can use to really thick screwdrivers or you can use what I got here a couple of old allen keys great big ones here we go and I'm going to show you two tricks here one of them is you just put in the allen keys okay and then you create this cross again and you can force like that and you can read it that way now this only works if the cross bars on the bottom of the tub drain here are intact okay and you can see that works quite well and you can put as much force as you need to on that and unthread if you have a tub strainer here that crosses over eroded away or rust it away here's another thing you can do realize that this is a chrome plated material it's usually a soft metal like a brass you can take an old chisel put it on the edge of that and kind of go square on just create a dent and then you can lay in a little flatter and you can just tap it around that takes a lot of time makes a lot of noise but it is effective I I'm not sure how to remove a tub if you don't get this at because now you're connected to that house is plumbing if you have to remove this and you can't remove this strainer you're gonna use it cutting tool or a torch and cut the top and a half I don't know unbelievable so it's good to have a couple of tricks up your sleeve voila we're innovator 1 and bathroom nothing all right so all shower heads are created equal they usually have a little shower arm and there's a compression fitting on this as well so if you just give it a little bit of a turn and a pull you can get this out of the way all right now just got a couple of options here you can just grab right in here with your pliers and just turn it and you're probably gonna just take the shower head off okay and then you can try and give me this a turn can be a little bit frustrating because the guy that put this in originally you usually use a lot of force okay so get a good grip on it and then once you get that started you can just kind of finish it off by hand of course if you're stuck and the Reg isn't working for you you can combine this with a nurse trick that I know you get the wrench on there nice and tight for a screwdriver in the pipe gives you extra leverage and you can pull both of those at the same time there's no way that that one I'm strong enough that that won't work so once we better fixtures removed the next thing is get rid of all the silicone joints that are around here because we're gonna be removing the walls next and that is a lot easier to do if they are not silicone to the tub just grab your knife the ceiling doesn't appear to be this silicone and painted so want to cut that loose as well all right so now it's time to remove the walls and if you've grabbed your sledgehammer or one of these beautiful stanley bars you've got the wrong tool in your hand like I said before this is more surgery so we have to be smart because what we want to do is want to reinstall the new tub surround in the same space without creating a mountain of work repairing walls so the technique that you want to use here is really simple grab an old flat chisel and a hammer and you want to remove this tile one at a time so we have control over the wall and hopefully we don't damage the wall board so badly you can see tile chips so make sure you wear your glasses [Applause] working like this allows us to cut this wall board right beside the old painted line and then we can create a tile line from the same spot on the wall so we don't have to repair all the drywall and repaint now if you've never done this kind of work before you need to understand that when ceramic tile breaks like that it's not the clay that's dangerous it's the glaze this glaze is razor-sharp make sure you're wearing your gloves now I can create a cut line and I can cut right down the drywall now we're ready to remove the walls okay so here's the deal if you're a home renovator and you're working on your own house and you don't want to be dressed up like a clown with a diaper on your face you know you realize you're taking some risk okay so for me I'm not a big fan of wearing the mask let's get rid of that and I'll tell you why I find wearing the mask makes it really hard to breathe and to be honest with you I guess I'm a little old-school I kind of believe like whatever you do for a living is gonna kill you so you know you can try to take all the safety precautions you like to avoid injury that's one thing but I'm not gonna worry about a little bit of dust now and again if I'm we're going to real dust the environment I set up negative air and I'll wear a mask on the occasion I'm gonna cut eight feet of drywall now of the reciprocate er it's gonna make a little dirt and if you're afraid of dirt then don't renovate just see here I'm just gonna cut about one inch back from my finish line this is outside of the tub it's not necessary to have any kind of waterproof board here so that's why I'm cutting at this point okay and the other way to do this is with a knife if you don't have one of those fancy tools you can always use a knife no looks like the last renovator that was here used a green board it's jointed right at the same spot as what we're doing and then they taped it and did a bunch of mud work so I got a half-inch I'm led to carve through first but if you're patient run this down a few times you'll eventually work right through to the back of the drywall okay here we go whoo I'm going to show you my technique for removing the tub surround walls no you don't chisel off every tile I actually had someone comment in the section below about can I just remove all the tile with a chisel and then tile again on the same wall board and the answer is no for obvious reasons like this the surface protection that paper that's been treated for the anti mold and the water resistance it's gonna get damaged okay it's not worth your effort to try to save anything here because I'll show you how you'll see in a second you saw how hard it was a chip away of this I can remove the rest of these walls in less than 10 minutes okay so bear with me and watch the technique and it's real simple what we're looking at is just smashing holes right through everything in the same swing [Applause] okay so here that's a that's a stud that's a stud I've cut the wallboard away because I'm wearing my safety glasses and my gloves and get in there I reach in and grab it now just use your ear force and use your hammer just shake it it'll jiggle all of the drywall screws that are in this board loose from the backside all right generally comes out in one piece things like this tear off okay now you can just walk that right out to your garbage bin so a lot of homeowners I know have the same kind of problem what to do with the garbage they don't want to pile it up in their garage that you can't put it on the curb for the city to pick up so here we go we're gonna show you a little secret I got to do this quick before my bag blows away all right if you've never seen this before this is dumpster in the back you can buy this at the local building stores the brilliant little invention comes with these two straps all you got to do is lay it out near your curb and when you're done you call the 1-800 number that's on the side of the bag pay with your visa over the phone these guys like come by grab an arm scoop it up take it away for you the whole thing full I can put an entire bathroom in there tub toilet walls floors the whole thing cluding the vanity on the top it's about two hundred fifty dollars for removal brilliant deal if you want to get a roll off pin your wrist damaged in your driveway takes a lot more space and usually start at five or six hundred bucks so this is perfect project size so a quick trick here before you start pulling off all the walls to help reduce your scope of work when you're done remember the ceiling here there's gonna be a drywall joint the tape will go from here up and then across and if you're not careful to cut through the paper before you rip off this will you'll peel it off the ceiling then you're gonna have to repair the drywall and repaint the ceiling again so we try our best to avoid that from happening the runner knife across here a few times almost like we're trying to cut it right through the drywall because lots of people use a lot of mud in the quarters you want to make sure you got that paper gun all right now it's right back to the same technique only different and just give it little tugs little vibrations he'll all these screws are pop loose all right and then once we've got it kind of separated well downward force so that we don't damage our ceiling there we go so here's the edge of our ceiling now that is perfect there's absolutely zero damage here it's exactly what we're looking for when we go back with our new wall board and tile our new tile is gonna be thicker than this old stuff this is what we like to call biscuit it's really thin the newer ones thicker so it'll actually have a thicker profile and that is going to put us in a position where we're going to finish clean on that ceiling no rework on the ceiling there's another whole day you're not going to waste I get a lot of people asking me questions about this sort of situation here this black and the insulation and they ask these questions in the comment section below and what you want to know is this is not mold all right this is air movement and when air is moving through a building cavity it's gonna pick up whatever dirt is around it's going to deposit it wherever there's resistance so this is just air movement probably because it just wasn't sealed up tight enough on the backside of this wall it's nothing to be concerned about it doesn't affect the insulation quality it just looks ugly so if it bothers you you can replace it but you don't need to okay so this is an empty cavity we got plumbing and wiring back here that's a really deep wall it's a mechanical wall probably gonna have heat runs as well so here you want to be careful watch your swing you don't want to go out too hard and punch right through here because you might hit something important in record remember keep your mouth closed when you're doing this sort of thing here we go same technique alright make sure the silicone is cut bit of a vibration one thing you're gonna want to do here check for nails on the adjacent wall okay make sure there's room for that wall board to open up when you get it going it'll just open like a door and again since you're walking through your house fill up all the broken bits that are gonna make a mess along the way muzzle leave all the mess in the same room so then you don't have to clean the entire home later here we go know this piece of board is probably about 60 or 70 pounds so keep that in mind if you're working alone or 70 pounds there's too much to carry you can just smash across and then smash down first then you can reduce the size of the work right so for the top side of this wall I really like to smash it down into two pieces tearing out this whole wall and protecting the ceiling while carrying all that weight and not slicing your leg on this cut tile it can be a trick so what I would do let's just find a place where we know the cavity is safe we'll smash right out of that grant line to the ceiling now I'm gonna put my hammer up against the frame on an angle here so I can try it off again same thing right you want to pull it down from the ceiling away from your cutlery well I mean it's obvious that there's a lot more to do in a demolition than just taking out a sledge hammer beating the hell out of it I don't know they love to show that on TV but let's stop and think here for a second what if we beat the tar out of the wall and we hit the stack all right you punch a hole on this bad boy now you're bringing in the plumber and you're replacing the stack right into the Attic that's attic work as well what if you just swing the hammer here and you puncture the joint on this copper line if you didn't notice that you did that you'd put your bathroom back together again turn the water back on and flood out the entire house so when you're tearing things apart if you don't know what's on the other side or inside that wall which you don't you have to do some patience and a little bit of skill I know it's great TV but using a sledgehammer inside a bathroom it's really not what that tool was made for now we don't want to wreck the ceiling so we got a there we go so far we've saved the ceiling remember when you're doing a demolition and you're doing an isolated project like we're only doing the tub in the tub surround it's our job to now stop and think how do I keep the scope of work from getting out of control okay so one of the things I don't want to do is I don't want to have to start getting into finished carpentry because that's a brand-new set of tools that's a brand-new day of work oh my goodness so what we have is a outside corner bead holding this wall in place so I'm going to grab my hacksaw and I'm gonna cut my corner bead okay gonna set it and go on a 45 degree angle and you'll cut both sides there we go now when I rip apart my corner bead on my wall I'm gonna leave all the trim alone there's another whole set of tools and a whole set up I mean can you imagine having to set up all your tools and make two cuts what a painting buddy okay so now this bathroom here is basically a great big square and they put the tub in here and out of this wall to bring the controls into this style of construction means that you are going to be doing some mud work and you're gonna have to do some paint but it's only on the tiny little wall okay so when you're taking this apart don't even try to save the corner don't try to peel it open to put it back later you're gonna crack the paint line you're gonna make a mess just get it out of the way move on it's gonna be in the way of installing your wall as well and you can see here they've done it with nails okay so the best way to get rid of this is actually swing the claw hammer at it right on the corner once you've popped it off the wall you can just all right now and you can be a surgical as you want to find each nail all right make sure it's not gonna do anything fancy done same thing just take your time it's easier when you're going down cuz it'll Bend and break it everywhere the nail is you just put your clown behind it maybe pull it out and then you can pull it down again and if it doesn't break away nice and clean for you just throw your claw into the wall board so you're gonna grip and then you can rip it out and that's where we cut perfect okay remember to always close the blade before you put it in your pocket yeah I learned that one the hard winner so the majority of our demo is complete so before we pull out the tub we're gonna just take a minute take all the nails and screws out of the wall clean up any extra debris that needs to be removed and then we're going to take everything off the floor sweep clean out the tub vacuum we're gonna start with a clean slate again before I start messing with the tub because the secret here is that the floor in this bathroom we want to keep okay so we're actually reinstalling with the same floor still attached so we want to take a little extra care here and make sure that as we go we're not causing any damage that's not necessary again keep your scope of work reduced and then this kind of project is very predictable so the next step in our demolition is we have to remove the tub but before we can move the tub we have to cut our plumbing out and here's why we're in an alcove situation and this tub won't pull straight out into the room because the frame is exactly the same size as the tub but on that side of the wall there's drywall so I have half an inch too small to be able to slide the tub out so what I have to do is I have to lift it roll it and then slide it in between the studs of the wall in order to take it out and the reason I want to do it that way is because then I'm not affecting and increasing the scope of work by causing new drywall work a new painting going on it takes a few extra minutes but if you take the time to cut the part of the plumbing out of the way then you and pull all the nails you have all the room that you're going need to be able to roll the tub out we'll show you how to do it in just a minute but first remember we have our water supply off you just need one of these little copper cutting tubes and I'm gonna pick a spot that's convenient for me for putting the plumbing back together I don't want to have it anywhere near my wood bracing okay so now we've cut and capped all of our plumbing it's completely out of the way now so we remove our tub and you can see the entire process for how to do all this plumbing on our next copper to PEX video so the last step that we have before we pull our tub out is we just go around and make sure that we pull out all of these nails and screws again the gap here is exactly 60 inch the tub is exactly 60 inch so there's no room to maneuver here if we're constantly bumping into nails and screws so don't drive yourself crazy just take two minutes so just keep in mind when you're cleaning your wall before you pull the tub out when you pull the tub out you're gonna want to be comfortable so you're gonna roll it and you're gonna lift it up to where you're standing comfortable so you're gonna hold the tub here you got another 32 inches so you want to make sure you're you're pulling all the nails up to four four and a half feet just so that you're not getting anything snagged especially your hands all right so so far we've managed to remove all of the shower fixtures all of the walls all of the tile and we haven't damaged anything outside of our scope of work which is new tub and new tile surround so the last thing we got to do before we pull the tub make sure we cut out the silicone joint down here and I mean sacrifice your blade get that right in there you're gonna dull off the tip mm-hm and that's okay that's why they make them break offs okay now we've got this moving mat here so that we have somewhere to set this tub after we pull it out we're trying to remove the reinstall the tub in the same exact spot without damaging this tile if we pull this off we managed to keep this cost of this job down to three thousand dollars instead of upwards of six or seven that would be awesome okay so I'm going to attempt to do this on my own for all of the benefit of everyone out there who's doesn't have anybody around you can help I actually am pretty lucky here because I don't have a lot of studs in my walls on the end I've got this stud here and I've got this big cavity here that I can work with I've only got one on the other side and all my plumbing is out of the way so I should be okay to find some room to wiggle this over what I want to do is I want to just first of all start by rolling it forward and then picking it in so that I break the seal and get this tub away from the tile and I think I've done that okay already I'm getting caught on the drywall over here and the secret to how this works is you got to give it just a bit of a twist and then get this edge of the tub in between the studs into the installation cavity so you can slide it over a little bit you don't need a whole lot of extra room to wiggle one of these out just a little bit there we go now at this point because this is the steel tub I would recommend grabbing a neighbor get some extra help carrying this down the stairs I know there's a lot of people out there we could probably lift this up and walk out no problem remember the goal here is to reduce the scope of work I'm putting a hole in a wall on the way down the staircase is not gonna help you out with that throwing just a note if you do your demolition the day before garbage day and you want to recycle your tub the easiest way to do it is leave it on your curb on for a garbage day morning there's always somebody driving around the neighborhood for the truck picking up metal things to take a recycling situation we got a lot of debris here but I just wanted to point out once again here's the stack her plumbing line comes out on a 45 comes across pick up this vent and then there's a p-trap to here and then we have this plumbing and this looks like it could be reused but here's the issue our new tub has got a different body mold to it so our center line is going to be in a different location all right we don't have a four-inch ledge on the front with a little edge on the back so we're actually going to be moving over here a little bit and the back side has got to go up to 20 inches not 16 so although this looks like this might be able to be saved and reuse the fact is it'll be a lot easier for us to just start from scratch and put everything exactly where we want it so we're gonna leave this in place for now because there is a p-trap full of water but tomorrow when we start to redo the plumbing well cut open the floor a little bit and cut this pipe off and we're going to establish a brand new plumbing system here for the drain I know it's a bit of a fight you know you'd like to be able to save something if you can but in the long run you're gonna cut yourself a lot of problem and this kind of stuff should not be attached to your tub under pressure don't try to ever force it in there that's a sure way to make it leak so if you're like most people you're in a home that's got a bathroom that needs to be renovated and you've got it all ripped apart and you're run into this copper plumbing now you may not be the best plumber in the world but if you can learn how to make one simple solder joint you can convert from copper to using pecks and then you can just use a crimper to install all your plumbing through the rest of the shower this will enable any average homeowner to be able to add jets and rain showers and all kinds of fun features and you can even run your plumbing around the nooks that you want to build on your walls but you needed a couple of simple tricks and here they are first you're gonna need a copper cutting tube this is really simple little tool pick it up at the hardware store about 15 bucks and copper is a really soft metal actually I'm gonna go a little bit lower so when I'm torching them well away from the wood copper is a really soft metal you can actually just tighten that tube on look at this I think starts cutting right through and every time you make a turn around the pipe you just turn it up a little more they come in different sizes so if you're in an unrestricted area you can get one with a big handle it makes a little bit easier but in this environment just a quarter turn and then just keep on running it'll take about six or seven times around and then you'll be able to cut right through the pipe now if you're good with the torch there we go we just broke through you could always just heat up this joint and pop both of these at the same time a lot of people may find that a little tricky so this just kind of eliminates all of those problems there we go tighten that on and then just work it around you'll notice also that this control area is really low back in the day this used to be standard to have it really low because the tub was used a lot more than the shower nowadays people are using the shower almost exclusively and the times of this functions the time is very rare and so we're putting them up a lot higher so it's a little more convenient for while you're having shower use there we go so now we're we're completely clear all we have to do now is identify how they've got this mounted on looks like a couple of nails a couple of nails this is a fancy little stiletto tool it's like a little mini hammer but it it does so many wonderful little things for those hard-to-reach places now in this situation we're not gonna try to save any of this plumbing so you can be as aggressive as you like because we have drained the water there we go and then we'll just lift this up to reducing the nails try that right there we are no important don't throw this away you're most likely gonna want to save this copper to add for your tub spout and that is a good piece of copper so no sense thrown in the garbage okay so we got our hot or cold traditionally hots on the left if it's tonight you're gonna be in for a surprise what I'm going to show you here is how to clean this how to torch it and then how to convert to PEX or just put a brass cap on and the reason you're gonna learn both of these options is if you have options it might save you a trick to run into the store now this is sand cloth and it's funny because the last time we did a copper to PEX video I used Sam cloth I called it San cloth says San cloth on the box and people were giving me different opinions about why I was calling it sand cloth in the video in the comment section below and it's because that's what it's called on the box so that's what I call it people have a different training for it that's fine goal here is to get it nice and clean you can't torch under you have to make sure that your copper is copper in color before you try to torch anything and you want to do about an inch and a half don't try to just get cheap and clean around the top because all it takes is one missed spot and you're gonna have a leak so here we are here's the fitting that we're going to use to convert from copper to PEX now this is plumbing language we talk male and female things get receiving and things that go inside all right it's the way it works so this is the male version this is the female version a female version goes over top of the copper okay which is convenient the male version is the same size as the copper and so this would be convenient if you're on a joint or using a coupling just thought I'd throw that out there for you to see but what we're using is the female version and because the part of the plum we're doing right now is kind of mid demo we're just getting this all capped off so we can pull the tub of I could also use just a regular plumbing cap and I can cap my plumbing that way too okay but since we're going to be converting to PEX for the long haul what I'm gonna do to save myself time for tomorrow so I'm just going to put six inches of PEX on there put on a test cap which is one of these little plastic caps here and that'll be good for tonight and then tomorrow we can just cut and add the fittings when we're ready to run the plumbing now basically this comes already cleaned comes from the factories brass doesn't really turn it but what I like to do is scratch it up just a little bit so that they have somewhere for the solder to sit into okay so when I'm doing my torching if you haven't done torching before what I'm looking to do is I'm gonna use this solder there we go you heat up the joint where you want the solder to go to which is up here and you add the solder from the bottom all right so what you want to do is create a nice clean scratched up environment so the solder has somewhere to sit and you're basically sealing it for the whole width of the joint all right so you end up sealing it 50 times more than is necessary and that is the goal to get such a good clean joint that there's no risk of it ever leaking and then you get sleep at night you'll see depending is not enough the solder will melt coming off the side of the pipe at the lowest part and now you know when it's going in area pushed into the drip though I know that whole thing is full of solder now I'm adding the heat the top left I'm adding solder for the bottom right the heat goes up so when it gets hot enough to melt solder in the bottom right I know it's been sucked because I added the flux there we go and sucked all the way to the top and that's it that soldering job is done so I just ran into the car I got my pecs cutting tool so I'm out of breath it's too cold to be standing around in t-shirt I wanted to show you this two different fittings you use to cap the end of the line these are called test caps they're made of plastic and this is a brass cap that's if you were gonna have a line and it's going to end and you want to crimp that and not ever think about it again for the rest of your life now using that today we will be using these and there are wonderful you just slide them on okay we have a couple of rings slide those on and crimp it and that's it so we're gonna just stick this on the line and then crimp it all up okay now we torch that only two minutes ago but you're not concerned about if it's too hot this PEX handles a lot of heat you way you do this is you would put this test cap on and it has a little stub on it and you bring your ring right up to the the end here and that tells you that you're in the right place light on your Cooper done okay so you want your ring about a quarter inch off the end of the pipe snug to the brass fitting boom and this might seem a little bit tedious and frustrating but it is a lot quicker and a lot more flexible than doing soldering alright so we are back here now to finish our conversion with copper to PEX and install our shower valve this is the typical shower tub system it has hot and cold shut offs as well as it has integrated PEX adapters so that you can run PEX directly to this and the tub line comes with a three-quarter inch of Tech's adapter which solves all of the problems we've been experienced in this industry going to PEX and having dripping from the showerhead when you do pecs to your tub so what we need to do here is really simple it's just a matter of doing any of our copper work first so we can let everything cool down and then we can just crimp everything together so these systems come the tap just threads off like this just be careful this is all machine brass and it is sharp you may want to wear gloves for this case this is just the test cap with the ring on it and there we go that's our valve so I'm going to suggest since I'm going to go with the copper option for the bottom I'm going to suggest that you take out the stops for the hot and the cold just pinch them together and slide that out okay and screw a tug there we go it's all in one piece now the instructions that come with this do not tell you that it's required however experience says when you're using a soldering web tool if you have anything on that fixture that's made of rubber you're probably best to get rid of it and that is why we put the drain cover on there we are so now there's nothing left here but solid brass now as far as the height that you install your valve at it's completely optional consulting with this particular client she has grandchildren that she uses to bathe in this tub so she needs to be able to access the water while she's bent over at the tub so it's not as low as traditional for a tub but it's high enough that you can reach it without having to bend over while you're having the shower it's kind of the best of both worlds here so before we get started don't forget rule number one turn off the water drain the line just because you turn it off doesn't mean you're not gonna have a mess the lines of pressure first so I always drain the line first so this valve is going to go on our center line which is about here if you're in a situation where you have more stud space Peck's is awesome they have these wonderful little holders and you can actually bend it around to go to a ninety without using a krip okay in our situation here though we're we don't have enough room to turn that so I'm gonna have to use an elbow and since I'm using an elbow in the hot line there's no sense using this on the cold because I'm only gonna be able to have as much pressures on the hot side anyway in a shower so the easiest way to hook up your plumbing is to use a laser level get your laser level on the center line and then just mark all your lumber where the line is okay all the way up to the showerhead and that's it now there's no more measuring involved done God owned a laser level if you run away at home next thing is too rough in just to measure all your components we're going to temporarily screw this to the wall good to know in this system the there's two holes for screwing it and two holes for attaching the plate the ones that you screw to the wall with this manufacturer don't have any threading in them so they're easy to identify I know some companies thread all the holes regardless it's always drives you crazy so we will put that there now for this you're going to need a half inch coupling for the tub I like to use one of these bad boys because I can attach it to the wall it's a 90 degree well that comes with a mount on it now what you measure is you measure the gap and then add one inch so you get a half inch for each fitting so we're gonna go seven so I need to cut an 8 inch piece of pipe and there's your my 8 inch with my thumb of course this is a rough to met if you're at all concerned you can just take off a little bit for good luck this for you okay and you also want to cut at the same time about a 5 inch extension the tub spout now the particular tub spoke fixture that we have is a slip-on tub spout where the attachment happens near the wall you really only need about two inches out of the wall I just like to go a little overboard so that I'm guaranteed I'm not going to have any soldering on the pipe where I'm trying to slide it over the top fixture later because we're dealing with copper and we're dealing with our hands we're gonna have oil on the line we just make sure we clean up the copper all the end just give them a good scratch with the San cloth of course use the fitting brush inside all of the fittings get the ones gonna scratch quiting here and I'm gonna scratch up the valve as well before we continue we just want to get all of our torch products sitting here handy ready to roll one of the best ways to do your soldering is to have your fixture mounted somewhere so that you don't have to be holding on to something it's gonna get rid up I'd like to wear my safety glasses when I'm torching because when I get my fixtures soldered I like to use the brush with the flux and just give it a quick wait it guarantees a good seal and you may get something flashing in your face so that takes care of that now before we solder we want to assemble all right so we want to get flux inside all of our fixtures you you all right so I put this together temporarily for now I've got a screw in this elbow so that while I'm heating things up in the side and then starting the the flux Co is kind of very liquid a lot of times these fittings will fall off and I don't want all this stuff falling in behind its up so this is this anchor at all and keep it all in place until I'm done I've thrown a screw here to forget my water line bent out of the way to keep it away from the heat so now we're ready to do this [Applause] I know it looks a little archaic but the fact is we're not welding we're soldering so you know in a perfect world it's nice to have a nice little pretty joint but my goal is to get the solder not up the joint it's going to inside the fitting where we scratched it up now I've got a scratched fitting and a scratch pipe and solder stuck in all those little grooves that's what the flux does it's like a magnet and it pulls all the solder into the inside of the joint where the heat is so you heat where you want the solder to go and then when it's hot enough to melt it it sucks it in so although I maybe have a couple of points here you can might see it what you think is a pinhole I'll guarantee you that is watertight and before we close up the wall we will guarantee that it's watertight and do a pressure test so we're gonna be okay real quick note don't worry if you get any of this solder on your acrylic they do not bond together and it will just wipe right off okay now because we have turned off the water right yeah and drain the lines I'm pretty sure I'm confident cuz I'm looking over at the bathroom tap and it's open and nothing's coming out yeah oh all right yay all right so what we're gonna do is we're just gonna measure how where we want to be here with the water line with our thumb just a little bit below this again is eyeballing and it might be easier if the blade is facing you sit it in the cradle and this is you want to cut while you turn that's how you cut it straight without collapsing the pipe if you just cut it straight on you're gonna crush the pipe out of shape like that and then putting on the fittings is real pain in the back so always add a ring as you go okay and it's not going to stay where you want it to but that's okay we also need to add enough to go from here to here I love the fact that this Plex is covered in numbers because it makes it really easy to measure okay again we can put the rings on ahead of time cuz we're gonna have two joints all right now here's one of these situations everything is so tight together that we can't connect it now we can take that off and put it all in place then we'll throw another set screw on again just keep it all in still while we're working all right same with the other side twist and cut and there's no good to us right fitting two rings connect that eyeball it cut it all right then we have to take our trusty crimpers now these are awesome I think the last time we did one of these copper to PEX videos we use a different locking system since then crimp right has come out with a crimping tool that is around $40 instead of 400 so it's certainly making something that a homeowner can use so you can use these solid rings to crimp now as a homeowner without a huge investment in your plumbing again this means that you can do your own plumbing and the tools will be a lot cheap with an iron plumber now the goal here is to get the ring about a quarter inch away from the fitting all these fittings have these little barbed rings on it so as long as you're making solid contact on one of these rings you're going to be fine but if you aim for the quarter inch rule you're sure to be good as gold [Music] you know the scary thing is plumbers today are using exactly the same system that seems like an awful lot of money to play with Lego pay for a plumber now don't get me wrong I love my plumber and there's a time and a place to call in a professional but when they make plumbing systems this simple man man oh man he'd better learn how to do this yourself or you were just throwing away your money now what we're going to do is we're going to take our valves and we're going to put them back in in the closed position which is straight up and down and we will put back our clips and this is a pretty simplest system to install a little bit of a push push that down and then close them into the end of the cradle probably see it easier on this idea I'm just going to push it in right drop this in there okay we are good to go the last thing to do here of course we have to put in the shower system just thread this on again go backwards until you feel it sit right nice and gentle in case your cross threaded there we go I know I mentioned this when I was taking this apart but I'm putting it back on you've got to use a pair of gloves here you're supposed to do this hand tight you can use a wrench just for a quarter turn but hand tight is plenty but wear gloves all of these machine lines here if your hand slips at all it'll just slice you to shreds all around the inside of your palm and I learned that one the hard way alright so now we're at a point where we've got our hot and cold water supplies off krypton the shut-off valves are back in our cartridges back together our tub supply is all installed and capped now it's time to do the shower and this is just a peck step X this is a drop here connection again put it on your line and tighten it down to the board so I'm just gonna eyeball it to the perfect cut had a little bit that'll never hurt wonderful thing about the packs is you can always cut it a little bit long because you can bend it in place and then just drop it down get your crimping tool set that to a quarter inch oh we know how plumbing let's go turn the water supply on and double-check everything please all right so my son's downstairs turning on the water supply what we do is we get on the phone together so that I can communicate with him if we have any leaks and the first thing we're to do is with the taps closed we're going to check our solder joint here and our connections leading up to the valve and we have no initial issues can you go full pressure please all right and we're all pressurized okay come on upstairs buddy okay so now here's a great little invention that I get at my plumbing supply store I haven't seen this in the hardware store before so if you're looking for one you might want to go to a specialty supplier but this is just a simple little cap has a gasket on it an extended pipe so that it's easier to cut wallboard and identify things when you're doing your tile work but it just threads into your showerhead spout okay it's exactly the same diameter as the fixture itself and you just tighten that on nice and tight now you can test the pressure in the whole line because I'm capped up here with this and I'm cap down here with a solder so now we're gonna open up the cold water supply perfect we're all finished our plumbing rough-in system now the final trim goes on after the tile and that's also where the cartridge gets installed in here the reason they have the shut-off valves on this bracket is so that you're not mixing hot water through the cold water line I know that there are some systems out there that come with a test cap that don't have the locks and I've had situations like that where you install your shower and before you know it a couple days later the toilets running hot water while you're busy Thailand so these are designed to keep the water from flowing until you get the rest of the system put together and that's about all you need to know so in a lot of cases when we're working in a jobsite and we're changing the tub or tub surround the idea here is to try to minimize the scope of work unfortunately in this situation the client wanted to go from a standard 30-inch wide to a 32 inch wide and so that creates a lot of little nuances that we're gonna cover in this tub installation video because if you can install a larger tub into an existing smaller space you're gonna stop anytime on the planet okay so let's get started I just wanted to point out first before we get moving how about the quality of the of the tub that we're using this is a Maryland tub it's called the Tucson the 32 inch is called the Tucson this has got an acrylic tub but it's a sprayed fiberglass reinforced acrylic okay this is extremely strong and it's it's a little bit more advanced than some of the products are available on the Shelf of the building store so keep an eye out for this because the price point is really minimal for an extra 30 or 40 dollars you can get a high quality acrylic tub instead of something that's gonna have a lot of deflection and risk cracking over time okay so you'll notice that this is a little piece of chipboard plywood reinforced tile sprayed and glued together but this is the skirt and this is the translates a lot of the load on the front side of the tub and when this is all sprayed together with the fiberglass it makes it incredibly strong you'll also notice on the back side there are a series of wooden block feet here and that directly translates the weight of the tub when it's full of water to the subfloor underneath so that you don't risk getting any cracks around the drain without those feet this ends up opening up and splitting a lot of times and this crack here is not a crack that you can fix with the repair guy okay they might come and fix it for you but it will crack again so the only way to avoid that is to buy a tub that has these reinforced feet don't rely on the skirt to take care of all the weight you need to give support to the bottom of the tub so the one thing you need to take care of before you start the idea of putting in a larger tub than what you have now is you need to understand which direction your floor joists are running if you don't have access from underneath the sea exactly the proximity of them you run the risk of this there could be a floor joist right here and if that's the case when you open this up remember your tub drain is going to be moving to a new center location and if it's right on the where the joist is then you're not going to be able to put that install there without compromising your joy strength and that's a brand new world I'll know you can do this but you need to get that engineered and it's a really big expense otherwise you're gonna have creaks and cracks and movement going on maybe damage in the ceiling underneath so the way you can check that out is go to the heat register vent in the bathroom put your arm down the hole and see which way the elbow goes okay which way the elbow goes will be the same direction as the joist if they're running this way into the tub you're gonna have lots of room in your cavity to move your plumbing to the new location guaranteed so the other things you need to keep in mind is the framing around the tub remember when you're framing around the tub traditionally you're gonna want to have wood backing off the corner of the tub so you can attach your your overhead shower rod or even future if you're gonna put in glass or a door kit you want to have wood there you don't want to rely on the strength of the wall board and the tile to support that so we want to make sure we reframe we also want to add and whatever blocking at the same time for our shower features the less work we do after the tub is installed the better outside of that I think if we've cut it all the basics covered make sure to check the level of the floor when they built the house originally it may have been level but every house settles in the middle because it's wood it'll all shrink just a little bit there's almost guaranteed to be a slope and if you want your tub perfectly level you're gonna have to do some shimming so keep that in mind as well so there's really three things that we need to do when we're putting a larger type into an existing smaller hole one is we have to open up the subfloor to reconnect the drain to we have to eliminate this all this plumbing and start all over again and the third thing is we have to cut back the tile and the underlayment so the tub can fit in inside of that area like I said when the house gets a little older it tends to slope in the middle and if I try to level this tub now I'll be flush on the outside wall and I got almost a half an inch gap difference here by cutting all this back and creating a new line I can install this time and have nothing but a silicone joint available to the naked eye later so what we've done is we've opened up a bit of a can of confusion here what I thought was the pipe leading for the drain turned out to be the pipe only going to the vent this drain pipe actually does a p-trap comes back here down through the joist and then back to the drain which you know contradicts what I definitely would have done as far as my process but that's fine what I've done is I've gone out and I bought this brass drain kit and the reason I bought this is because of the flexibility I need to move my drain to a new location around here but all of the fittings in this plumbing here are joint to joint to joint and although I'm able to take that off it's just really labor time-consuming so this enables me to change from this pipe over I can put on this new tee that's a brass put this pipe to where it goes Center I can come off the existing pipe right here and I can actually snake in the corner of this pipe here which is awesome so I can get that extra inch and a half out of it just by bending my copper neck this enables me to do all my plumbing have it leak proof and it's a lot quicker now it's only an extra 15 dollars more than the APS drain system so I suggest buying this all the time you don't always need to use it but when you do need to use it it's nice to already have it all right now in order to cut this all out i'm repo'ing out my handy dandy rigid inch and a half pipe cutter try to get as much of this pipe cut as I can and you just stick it on the pipe it has a sharp tooth on it and it slices through the ABS you know if I'm lucky I put it right up to the fitting go at it from both directions it'll almost complete the cut and the secret that doing good plumbing is cutting perpendicular and trying to cut in here with this whip you a little tricky and I could always lay it right in here and fish it back and forth but it's a little too big and cumbersome so I went out and I bought myself this cute little hacksaw for just occasions like this I can actually get in here you know this is gonna take a minute but it'll get the job done once you get three-quarters of the way through it'll generally just give up the ghost okay so you don't need to clean AVS fittings with sand cloth but I can't see what's going on in behind there so I'm just making sure that I've got any of the old solvent out of the way so I gotta do generously apply their solvent to both pieces and without wasting too much time pushing twist get that on there nice and tight okay so now we just got to prep up our brass drink it this is all compression fits with some positions there's gaskets some of us just thread like here so when it's just thread I use a pipe joint compound this acts like a sealer let me put that back in where it came from nice and tight okay now these others joints sister washer a knot system all right so what we're gonna do now is just measure off where this goes we'll loosen up this collar well we have the ability to raise or lower this okay according to the dimensions on the tub which is awesome you'll see how this operates here put the ring on first and then the washer okay goes in afterwards okay let me slip this over and it's a nice snug fit and the thing here is we now have to cut this pipe to fit all right that's not my final location before we put the lift of the tempo we mark the center drain on the floor all right and so we've got the dimensions on that is nine four off the wall and 17 off that wall so what I do is I'm gonna go in here now just see what this that is 9 and that is not 17 so in order to get it over to this location I've got to make this pipe shorter so we want to do is go like this now and we're measuring to the center hole I bought this bad boy yeah that's gonna be good there okay so my eyeball that's about the edge of where my pipe goes you can see that inside this fitting there is room for that pipe to be extended okay I'll mark it just you can see I have a half inch of play so if that's what I'm guessing I'm gonna split the difference I'm gonna go to quarter inch of play I also have the ability for this to move around just a little bit on me so that'll make it real easy to install the time okay all right then we just take the hacksaw and cut that off this is one of these cases we're having some Santa Claus is brilliant it makes it a lot of you put the fitting on okay so we're in put the ring on put the gasket on I mean this is snug it's really difficult to do with the gloves on there we go okay again we're just still doing the rough fit here we haven't connected or tightened up any of the pins 17 right there okay now the other thing we have to do is find out how far off the ground that tub is going to be because we were using this type of drain system we were actually able to tie into the original ABS that was coming out we've locked onto cholera adjusted all of our pipes created our center point here of 17 and 9 and we created our senator point here just according to the dimensions on the tub well the only thing left to do now is just cut back the tile I've got a beautiful porcelain tile bit on here I picked this up in my tile supply store cost me 35 bucks you can get something comparable in the hardware store for about 60 and we're just gonna run the vacuum and cut this out make sure you protect yourself you're gonna fly in stone going everywhere [Music] lots of eateries that's good there I like that so that's just gonna install some vapor barrier here for us it's got a great little trick it looks like for doing this if you're a little short there you go like that I'm gonna use that one day so we had got our extra framing in the wall we've got our drain done we've got our floor cut back so that we're ready to drop the tub in so we're ready to install our tub finally we've got our plumbing rough-in tied into the wall our drain is assembled their floors cut back our framing is done the vapor barrier is intact and we're gotten all this point without expanding the scope of work outside of the fact that we had to cut the floor so so far is a good day all right now there is no one way to do this you're gonna have to do a little bit of trial and error just remember the back side and the each end are open so you have the ability to do a little bit of twisting and rolling when you're trying to get these into position the key is to hold it off the ground the entire time until you're ready to set it down the last few inches so you don't accidentally put too much pressure on one of the corners of the skirt which will always be visible and if you break that you got to go buy a new tub okay here we go so we're flush up against this where's our drain and that'll be perfect this is on the flexible connection so we can put that in place later so now that we have our tub in place and we're solid we want to connect all of the plumbing before we connect the tub to the walls and I'll tell you why because the plumbing is only got so much flexibility down here I want to get this one mounted the drain and then I want to connect the overflow which is on the flexible neck so that'll work out really well what we got is you're gonna take care of one thing here and that is this protective plastic and now I'm only mentioning this because everybody who's ever got into building things and putting in plumbing for the first time until you've had a leak and you found out us because of this plastic was in the way you don't know that you need to remove it so I'm gonna save you that problem get the plastic out of the way you don't want to have any of that protective plastic where are you putting your fixtures so you want to get your white silicone that's designed for kitchens and baths and you want to get it on your thread here and a couple of lines and you want to put it just a thin layer around the seal here on their first attempt of doing this series of plumbing in the bathroom we had a few plumbers came in and they tied in with the fact that this particular style of acrylic tub is not conducive with the old fashioned plumber putty and apparently there's concern that the putty will break down the acrylic over time so they suggest using this bathroom silicone so now you take your tub tool and we're causing compression on that rubber gasket that's underneath to the tub surface we're just gonna lift that up until it's nice and tight here we go once we have it snug well throw a screwdriver across the top and give an extra extra half a turn all right at this point wipe out the extra silicone it's not necessary to be in there anymore now we got that one done I always put my drink happen right away make sure it's covered up now here's my overflow and I'm just gonna reach him behind I put my gas get back in place now very difficult to install the tub and not knock this off now you can see I'm a little bit low I'm just gonna tuck on that neck extension until them bright where I want it and this is where this kit comes in real handy a lot of overflow systems have a little bar and you tighten it up with a drill and you just got to get in the right spot and you may or may not have it good contact this one actually has a threaded cap that goes over top and so this one here gives you the ability just go backwards until you feel it sit in and then you go forward that way you won't cross thread actually not if after you turn it a couple of times and it's giving you a lot of resistance you might be cross thread so just back it off and try it again now you can use the tub tool here as well okay as a screwdriver you can see on here there's a couple of prongs there's something to tighten it up against you're just gonna find that middle point because the back of that overflow is flexible it'll not just move up and down but also twist side to side so that you can get a perfect compression right there okay now if at any point you're concerned at all about leaking you can as a management tactic you can actually silicone around that this plastic to the acrylic can be silicone and create a secondary seal that's the finish on this actually has this really cool little thing it's a little different look from how S&B and it has a slotted groove that goes over top of the edge of that you know how sleek is that not seeing any screws very sexy now it's inevitable whenever you're installing a tub one of the things we joke about in our business is we never find a room that's square you'll never find an alcove that's square so once you've done drop into some shims all the way around the tub and that is where you will put your screws to attach the tub to the wall once you've done attaching it cut off the shims remove them out of the way if you're concerned at all about the acrylic breaking you can actually get a pilot drill and just drill a small little hole before you put your screw I suggest flooring screws because they're coated and they won't rust as fast but if you really want to go crazy you could always buy stainless steel now here we go once we've got that all set up and that's more than one shim thick here we go these are actually AC cubes or deck screws but they'll do the same thing you'll see we get started and it'll drill its own hole and you can run it almost flush okay don't go too crazy with this because you will crack it and that's all you need yeah perfect so once you get that in here we go now we got enough stuff as installed okay so in the building world today we've got a lot of different materials available for building and waterproofing a shower I believe in one of our previous videos we showed you how to use just regular drywall and use the Kirti membrane that orange mat and cement that on the walls and create your seal for waterproofing but in this video today we're going to show you a little different system because Kirti makes its own wall panel and this is half an inch thick it's a polystyrene it's got the waterproof membrane on it and it just reduces everything down into one step one of the benefits of this board is that you can actually use it to create your own custom niche and you can cut the hole after you've installed your wall while you're tiling to create that shelf right on the gravel line we're not doing that in this particular project we'll do that again some other time for you today we're just covering how to install it and the basics of it so this stuff comes in three foot by five foot panels or four by eight foot sheets I've double checked it's available at both of the major building stores the only downside is neither of them carry the Kirti fix caulking so if you download the instructions or look online for how to do this properly you're gonna be disappointed they do not carry the caulking not exactly sure why it's not exactly needed but we'll leave that does shorter day answer that question so what I've done is I've just pre-cut my panel I prefer to buy three four by eight foot sheets and because when I do the math I have a five foot and then a three foot a five foot into three foot and then control well so that's three panels it's nice and simple and I never have an issue if I buy the three foot by five foot I've got it by three sheets just for this wall because usually this wall is six feet and change and that's maddening alright now here's the deal this board is cut it five feet and my hole is a little bit bigger and that's fine they come with hardware this wonderful little clip system and that clip right there it's got teeth in it okay and so what happens is you put it on the polystyrene you press it in the screw goes in the middle these are the stud and then it is screwed until there's a depression all right and the way this works is that depression gets filled with cement and a waterproofing membrane layer little 3 by 2 square and that is the entire system as soon as you put that on this is built like a submarine you can go 10 storeys beneath the ocean's level and no water is going to get in there now these clips are supposed to be installed every 12 inches on the stud every 16 inches apart your bathroom may or may not be frame like that exactly not to worry it's a very rigid board so you can get away with a little bit of slack yeah in our particular case our framing is quite odd because we are back-to-back showers here so I'm gonna have a larger cavity so I'm gonna take advantage of this stud even though it's really quite close oh love the Phillips screws because these boards have got these wonderful grid lines on them and we're just doing a substrate nothing has to be exactly perfect it makes life really easy I can actually put that board there eyeball it mark my spot I can just cut the whole board without any straight lines breaks a lot like drywall and it just has another membrane on the back that's very similar without the lines so you just cut it and then you shave it now if you're transporting these large sheets in your car all you'd have to do is cut across the back side snap it over and you can make it half as thick to shove in your car and then you open it up to install it and you still have a continuous joint on the membrane which means you still have a waterproof layer so that's very handy trick to have just forget started we'll throw a couple of washers in there we go it'll lock that in place time for the next board this is an awesome way to measure we can just go over here identify where the other board is here okay so we just eyeball this take an extra quarter off you don't need to be flushed to the ceiling with your wall board all right it's okay you have your board a little bit short as long as you're only doing a shower now if you're sealing it all up to do a steam shower you also have to waterproof the ceiling at that point it's not gonna be an issue but first aiders shower if your wall boards a little bit short and I say go for it make the ease of convenient I like how easy that is to install put your clip right on the joint and compress the joint together and go like that now when a last step just as we're about to tile we're gonna mix up our non-modified cement and we're gonna do a pretty tape joint along these joints here and we're gonna cover all of our screws with little squares and then that's the entire waterproofing system so remember all you need to know is you keep these things every 12 inches up and down the studs try to put them on every stuff that you can find or 16 inches on center use these special things at the joints and the utility knife to cut and you can waterproof like a pro so I found that one of the best secrets is get the two long walls on first leave the control wall to last crawl in here and then just measure off your finish wall board to the center of the plumbing fixture which oddly enough turns out to be 16 and because you use a laser level all three will be the same now we want to measure from the top of the integrated tile flange that is six and then 17 I want to get all my measurements at once and just have them handy and that's 65 now all we're gonna do is translate that information onto this board so around here that's my centerline that's my centerline okay so I'm at six inches and I'm six 17 inches I am at 65 inches okay so now I got all my measurements all I need to make those goals is it's over now if you like you could use a hole saw seems a little extreme and I'll tell you why up here we're gonna have a shower head and it's just a half inch pipe coming through the wall and the water starts here and goes down so the likelihood that up here gets wet very very small so you can cut yourself a nice moderately sized hole just for convenience sake okay and there we go that's for the shower head down here I've got a shower control now my cover plank pan is about five inch round and it has its own gasket that seals up against the stone so I'm not really that concerned about water getting in behind that part of the wall either so I have a rectangle that I want to cut that is about three by three inches yes we're going to start okay and then for the top of this mode of course same thing it's just a half inch piece of copper and so just to help make it simple I'm gonna cut about a one-inch hole and then we're just gonna slide it all into place okay now the secret here to knowing where your wood is is it go down to your tab and you just look for the screws because that's not just attaching your tub that's marking it right and that is how you know why are you studies so I only have a screw here in here I'm going to fill those two lines I'm gonna screw the outside edge as well but because the old drywall is sticking out a little bit take a minute with my utility knife and cut that back before I close it up till the dimples there you go so now all I have to do is go along finish all my screws every 12 and 16 and I have to cut a couple little strips to go we side the tub down to the floor oddly enough that is the one part of the bathroom that seems to ride out the fastest it's the most important so make sure you keep some fair material around just for that position and once we mix up the cement will show you how to waterproof this so here we are we got all of our board installed now it's all the clips are in you can see where we use the clips on the joints so you can kill two birds with one stone the only thing that's really left to do is to finish the waterproofing process by closing up these joints there so that they're waterproof now if you're not familiar with the Schluter product this is their joint tape it's kind of similar to doing drywall really we're gonna just cover it over now you need to use the right kind of cement and so with anything that's a waterproof it means that resists water I want to use a product that is going to get harder and harder and harder over time the longer it stays wet so since the water isn't gonna get sorbed into the wall I use a non modified cement which is old fashioned for cement and I use that to make all these adhesions because I found that trying to use any other product it just starts to peel off so I know Schluter makes their own all set product now that's good for any application that's rather expensive you can just buy a regular boring non modified cement and it'll save you a ton of money really simple this stuff is actually um it is a plastic it's a woven cloth but it's difficult to cut with utility knife so be really careful you're actually better to use scissors when working with this kind of stuff and of course if you need to know how to mix cement you can check out some of our other videos are done on the Schluter water proofing system and tile videos as well now let's get into this this is really kind of straightforward I'm going to actually demonstrate back here now I installed this board a little bit shy on purpose okay as a demonstration this is not meant to be rocket science really we're just gonna put this membrane up to the ceiling and we're gonna just physically measure it right down to where it overlaps right down to the top and like I said this stuff here's a little tricky to cut yeah so you might want to use some scissors an idea here so we install this we want to have it come down over top of the integrated tile flange alright so that our waterproofing goes right down and diverts everything right down to the tub deck and then into the tub if any water gets in behind the wall so just as a note if you're buying this at the local building store and you don't want to spend a lot of money on tools you can just use your regular 4 inch knife just apply them pretty liberally and don't try to squeeze it out when you're putting it on now Schluter does make its own tools so you can get all the thicknesses exactly correct but honestly as long as you're just a little liberal with this you'll be just fine now you take your membrane cloth and you fold it over in half you just run it off the top a couple of times and that is a great way to put a seam on that cloth and it'll aid in the installation so you're not fighting without the whole time you put it into the corner then you can just place that in there BAM just to reiterate the waterproofing system operates because this product and this product both repel water so water can't force itself behind that joint once that's dry there's just not enough space for water to get a foothold and they've tested this stuff out something like four stories beneath the ocean floor and the amount of pressure takes the force water through that joint and since we're not in the ocean we'll be fine so the recommendation from scooter of course is to have about a two inch overlay this tape is four inches wide and there we go that's installed now that joint is completely waterproof so but joints are pretty much the same course you're gonna make a mess with this stuff so don't worry about it you can clean it up later again you want to have a 2 inch overlap over there there we go okay now as far as the cost of this product is concerned I'll be honest with you if you're using this product it's because you want your bathroom to be waterproof hell or high water okay this is this was not cheap product and it really works but to give you an idea one roll of this at sixty and feet is $30 each one of these four by eight sheets is one hundred and ten dollars so you're looking at a five or six hundred dollar investment in materials alone just to waterproof and build your shower of course if you're putting on expensive stone and you want it to last a long time this is a great way to make a heavy use kind of shower lasts forever the way that we finished the waterproofing of the system is everywhere where we have a penetration we need to seal it up as well so we're gonna add the cement put these little squares over top of the hole and press them all tape now that area there has the same degree of waterproofing as the joint again guaranteed walk away never gonna have an issue generally speaking if you're a homeowner you're buying this product at a building store there's one thing you can't buy because they don't sell it and that is the Kirti fix and it's an adhesive caulking this is not it part of their warranty program requires you to use that at the base of the tub to seal the wall board to the tub now they don't sell it at the hardware stores neither of the two major brands do so you're already buying a product that you can't get a warranty for and so you've got to be creative to create that seal so well I have found and we did this on a couple of projects earlier we made a cedar cooler from my deck we're using the pate Lapage two and one sealing bond this is made for interior use so the fumes aren't very terrible and you can use this to seal up your gap in the tub there's another way you can do this you can also cheat and seal up these holes you're gonna love this now this doesn't dry very fast so if you use it you need to give it a couple hours to dry but I'll give you an example of what it was here one two [ __ ] has nine dollars one sheet of this is 30 bucks plus cement and plus plus seals waterproof I don't know about you but if I wasn't in a hurry I would do this all day long come back and tile tomorrow because the design is made for a two inch overlap at 40 people OC level since we're only waterproofing something on the back of a shower you don't have to be all that concerned with the math if you're even close as long as that hole is covered even by a quarter of an inch I'm telling you right now you're not gonna have a problem so don't get all paranoid about it so since you don't have any kriti fix and you've got to find a creative way to solve this problem you could use the membrane right over unto the tub or you can just take your in here and this is of course a special material little bond to just about anything and you can wrist around a nice thick bead along the bottom okay damn and then just smooth it up with your thumb a little bit get a little pressure in there so you know it bonded all around the corners you can do up the side as well and that is it all right for closing up our shower we're gonna be using a four by twelve glossy a ceramic tile this is a brilliant product because it has lots of flexibility great style and easy easy easy to install as long we shouldn't get your first real level that is why it's very important to have your laser level handy I can't preach enough about this every tool that every homeowner should have in their in their toolbox so before we get started one quick tip make sure that you've peeled back your protective layer of plastic off your top lid you don't want to let that get caught underneath your tile or that will end up causing your problems down the road and always have a pail of water with a sponge handy I like to clean as I go it just makes my life a lot easier and if you're doing this professionally for people every time they pop their head around the corner and what see you working it is so encouraging for them to see the nice clean job site so the beginning of a tile job is always the same it's called mapping it out you need to think about how you're installing your tile now our basic direction here is to start with a 50% offset so it's a typical subway pattern just a offset from the stack in the middle so what we want to do is first measure our back wall off and put a centerline on and this back wall should be 59 inches and so that should leave us it 29 in the half just right here so the process here is simple we just take a couple of tiles we start with a grout line on this underline and we work towards the outside and you'll see that we are left with about a half a tile that is brilliant and because we're staggering 50% every other roll will be half tile full tile and of course the same math if we start in the middle of the tile we'll be left with a full tile at the edge side so what I'm doing is I'm checking to see how level my wall is altogether and I'm going to be good there so if I use that as my starting row right there and then I cut a bunch of tiles in half I can start building the entire back wall from this corner off that line and that is brilliantly if you don't have a laser you can always just use a regular level but of course this never lies and now okay so in this case the right side is pretty straight the left side actually opens up so this tells me that if I'm gonna go with half offset I should start in this corner and then whenever I get to my hand and I have to cut a tile I can always cut it to fit without wrecking my pattern so I also set this up here you can see the laser line in this wall here max I'll get out of the way this is the laser level we're going to use now this tub is installed flush on the subfloor and the house has got a bit of a dip so the tub isn't exactly level and that is not going to be a problem because this is the drain end now I've got to set up for full tile here as I come around the corner you'll see that really soon BAM right there I'm already at my line so the way I mapped this out and the reason I want the laser level here is I want to cut all of these pieces for the bottom row first to fit up against this laser level and then I can use my wedge spacers and make sure I got a perfectly straight line here before I start building the wall if you just start tiling you've got a little slope you're gonna have a hard time getting all your joints in the corners to line up because the tile will be sticking in every direction as it follows the slope if you don't start level you can't finish level it may not look bad to when you're sitting in here building it when you walk in the room after you're all finished it'll scream at you hey that's crooked come we don't want that you know the easiest way to do this is just mark the walls okay and then you take a look at your laser level and you can put your tile to your laser level over here sorry in that wrong corner there and here and when you put that on the tile cutter you just line up the two lines on the cutting line score and snap so now that our tiles are cut ready to build the first row before we get started we want to get our plastic edges on this will determine how what the actual outside measurement is going to be and really the secret here let's just get a little something you can press that edging into all right you can attach the rest of this later there we go now we can just set up our laser starting down at the baseboard and you just push that over until it's exactly where you want it to be very nice now you can see the tile that we've chosen here has got a beautiful honeycomb on the back of it which means that I can go with 1/4 by 3/8 trowel this puts a really nice thick Ridge on they're great for collapse and those ridges and getting good at heejun and the secret here is push that tile shut without a grout line all right and then you slide it into position now I've got a couple of different spacers here today I've got a 1/8 spacer I like subway tile with a little bit of gap a little bit of grout I just look it's a lot more classic and then these are wedges all right now these wedges are designed to help get this perfectly level and also create a little bit of a gap between the tile and the acrylic tub remember acrylic when it gets full of water is going to be bending around a lot so you don't want to have it in direct contact because it'll cause squeaking so we just put a wedge underneath create that air space then we can remove laid it before we go out and you can also use it to level it and then establish your space with your spacer for your grout line there we go it is that simple okay so because we have our edging already installed I like to take these little wax bits off as I go I don't like to leave it until it's all the tiles install in case there's an accident now I'm gonna be putting it tight to that and then marking - to grout lines right hopefully Matt that'll cut okay I got my son helping me today he's doing all the cutting yeah no pressure one of the reasons why I think subway tile is a perfect do-it-yourself job it's because the the tile is small enough and because it's made of ceramic it's very easy to cut you can use just a score tool which puts a scratch and then pressure and always snaps right on the line Matt Justin did this one and that's a really nice cut that is really clean all right you can do that that tool is available at the building store for about $30 that's awesome you can always get a wet wet saw as well but for this tile I would use the score tool almost exclusively and then for around this area just get a ceramic bit for your four inch grinder and you can just use that wheel and cut any decorative hole you need and that's about the only tools you'll ever need for this now you see that the edge of this tub has a bit of a raise to it use that I'm not level and that's what wedges are for so I'm going to get that line level first based off my laser and then I'm going to use my wedges to raise the rest of my line so the reason I switched to laser level for do my tile is because I would end up getting my my level so filthy I'm always laying it in the mud and I couldn't get a proper line unless I clean all the cement and start it over again it drove me nuts so this way I have a perfect line all around the entire tub not just from corner to corner and that helps make sure the job is perfect every time okay so we just set up our laser level down here to have a look right on the edge of the tile and so down here I am just just hovering above the stone okay and then over as I come across as the your eye will play tricks on you I think that was level it looked good it was a straight line but it wasn't a level line so this is why these wedges are so awesome I can actually make this adjustment until it is absolutely perfect all right so now we have our first row well established I'm pretty happy with what's going on with it Oh spacer come on remember we already checked with our laser level so we know that straight up is perfect I cut a bunch of towels in half so we're going to just start with a half tile there so now with this like building a pyramid right get your cement on the wall and this is going to be a mess here then when you use an adhesive so I always have that pale sponge handy clean as you go try to keep the extra cement how do the grout lines as much as you can just run your travel along there like that or even both your fingers okay what you're gonna do is just place them right on the tile first okay start with two rows at a time here so we just lift the tile drop in our spacers and because we've got the the road well leveled off just do the ends you don't have to put them everywhere just to support the tile to keep it from sliding around okay and that's it now we want to straighten out our line here always put your cuts on the inside of course press it in lift it up into the spacer system it where you need it I like to start at the bottom and then lift it up so I'm pulling the cement away from the grout line and then just to over and over and over again start tight to the tile okay this one slipped off the laser you can keep an eye on this and adjusted as you go after about half an hour these tiles on the wall are not going to be able to move anymore with this type of cement okay so you got a little bit of time to play with this nice and tight and the reason you go nice and tight it's a great way to check to see if everything's square and level if I put this on nice and tight I got a huge gap I know if it got fixed something okay so we're just going to set the space up now for good measure once we have our line here established put these spacers back into and that'll make sure that all of your grout lines all over the wall are uniform you don't have big gaps and little gaps opening up next to each other that always looks unsightly now during the introduction I mentioned that we're doing a subway tile with the glass mosaic so now it's time to discuss the glass mosaic and why it's necessary most of the tile that's produced today is produced under the assumption that you're having a 5 foot shower which is why these are just under 12 inches plus the grout line full five tiles across looks very aesthetically pleasing easy to Center easy to install plus they're also made at a certain height so that on a traditional 20-inch tub which is now the norm and a regular eight-foot ceiling it's just about a full tile at the top maybe a little bit more maybe a little bit less but nonetheless it'll finish well with either a little grout or a little grind and it'll look like a full tile after the silicone edge goes on what you need to know is what if your situation is a little bit different and it's gonna be just a sliver what if you end up with just one inch of tile left what if your house is a little short or you've got a bulkhead or you bought a shorter tub and the math doesn't work how do you fix that and this is what we do there are bazillion options of mixed mosaic tile different thicknesses one square foot sheets like this with a reoccurring pattern okay what you can do is you just follow this simple procedure and you can use your mosaic to make the adjustment on your finish before you get there so they measure down from your ceiling all right we're just a little bit over there under 32 inches so I check how's that gonna look well I'm a little bit over 32 inches to a full tile so the tile at the very top of the ceiling will use this I'm gonna end up cutting them of this much off in this particular situation this tile and this tub work because I checked both sides already and on the other side it's perfect and on the side that's inside the house it's actually got a little bit of a gap so I'm gonna have a little bit of a cut vinyl around the top just like it did around the bottom because remember I have a square house and I went and it fell in so now all I had to cut the bottom row in the tile to make a level the top will get cut to be level and it'll work out but if you had a problem with that and you were going from the 0 to 1 inch filler I'll guarantee give that 1 inch piece of tile would look like garbage so I'm gonna back this up one row of title instead of the 32 I'm gonna go to 28 and a quarter and that'll give me my all the room that I need that's my mark and I want to make my mosaic that thick so now I would take my sheet and on the bottom I've got a thicker piece up here we've got a thinner piece I'm gonna say okay so I need a grout line if I use those it's too much if I go here it's too much if I go there it's just right okay what if I start is this into the sheet that's not enough so that's what I'm gonna use let me use the thick one two three four and then I've got a reoccurring pattern here thick one two three four so that means I'm gonna get two linear feet per sheet I bought a couple extra sheets because I know this usually happens and then we are going to put in that much mosaic tile all around so that we finish with a full tile and that is how you solve your problems this is a great way to fill in the differences if you're using large stone especially you can put in two bands if you want now Wishon aliy we put it around five feet in the shower okay so stand in the shower measure up to five feet it's kind of like line-of-sight in the bathroom alright so when you look around the glass should be right in front of your eyes that's all you need to know about mosaic tile of course this is glass so cutting this can be a little tricky and maybe we should go to the saw and show you how to do that so I'm going to demonstrate how to cut glass mosaic if you have a wet saw it's simple just set it on the table and slide it through but if you don't you're going to be using a grinder wheel and this is fine this is a nice porcelain grinder wheel the trick here is actually cut from the backside alright it reduces the the breakage and the chipping on the front of the glass and gives you a nice straight line and because I'm going into a corner I have to have a straight line so I'm just gonna eyeball a straight line off this shorter tile here [Applause] nope okay so I wanted what you'll see is I'm not cutting through it I'm pressing down the middle of the tile and then splitting and watch this right here you can see the grinder only came to this point and then Shh it cut right off okay we're going into a corner the other glass of come against it and then that is all you need to do you have to do one two three probably four of these cuts for the entire mosaic strip other than that the rest of these will fit together the way that it's on the sheet now in order to cut a hole in the middle of the tile and this is important because you're gonna be putting your tub faucet here and the tub faucet may or may not be big enough to cover this plus the grout line and you don't want it to be a place where the water can get through so it's important to cut just enough hole for the pipe to come out what I'm gonna do is I'm going to just lightly touch on all four of these lines okay and then I'm gonna finish the cut from the back side and if you watch carefully I'll show you how it's done and then when I'm done doing it I'll explain exactly how I did it alright so you'll see I've started the cut on the glaze and then what I do is from the backside I can see visually looking at this where the line is and I use the grinder and just make us just a quick line on the back of the stone and that translates all that information to the back of the tile now I cut through from the back side [Music] that gives me the ability to finish that cut without having the bleed cross-cutting right into the over the tile and my tub spoke connection I'll have no problem covering that okay so right now we're gonna talk about the kerdi-band tea and this particular cement and while we're choosing this for our glass mosaic the funny thing is glass is usually heavier than ceramic relatively speaking and they come pre attached to the back of the sheet all right it's an adhesive now a lot of times these spaces that are in between this glass are different than the spacers that you're using on your wall so for instance we'll take one of these oops and here's my 1/8 spacer it barely makes it in there but if I try to put it in between all these tiles it actually doesn't fit over all these four joints this joint spacing is actually something like 215 instead of 216 it's a little bit straight so the spacers are useless I can't use them so if I'm building a wall like this and I put in my mosaic strip I can use a spacer on the bottom and I can stop there and I can wait till tomorrow to come back when it's dry or I can use the right cement that's gonna hold it up there even without spacers and it's not going to slip you know it sounds ridiculous but when you go to the hardware store you're stuck you have usually three choices of cement there's a modified and now I modified the modified means it has a glue in it and then there's an ultra light which is good for putting tile on a ceiling where I go from my tile products it has the entire line the entire map a line of everything that's available so I've got grey and white options I've modified and unmodified for five different kinds of tile regular thin set large format tile ceiling tile ultra light I mean if you can dream it up they've got the product there so when you're shopping for your cement if you get to a tile supply store instead of a building store you're probably gonna be a lot more happy with your result and a lot more options so in something like this you can tile all the shower in a day or it can take an entire weekend now if you were to put two of these glass strips in there it could take you three days or you just buy the right cement for the job spend the extra couple bucks and finish it all off in an afternoon I'll let you be the judge now when I'm mixing cement generally speaking the first minute of mixing I want to have a little bit less product in there than I need just so I can make sure I can clean out all of the clumps that sit in the corners of course always add water first there we go now I know that dense soup is gonna be able to withstand all the rest of the smooth that I pour in there [Music] [Applause] so you only want to mix this one so you don't want to wait in ten minutes where's you're supposed to allow it to set up and then come back and go oh I need more water because it's not gonna perform properly for you you just destroyed your cement so you want to mix it thin enough just to the point where when you travel it it holds the trowel groove but it's still sloppy okay that way in ten minutes from now when this is set it might be a little more firm put a sub perform well on the wall now we bought this cement to use on our mosaic but because I like to be efficient I'm gonna do the rest of the wall with it because I don't like mixing just a little bit of cement in the pail just a little demonstration here ready this is this meant that doesn't sag there you go yeah I'm using a 1/4 by 3 is shale that's a lot of cement on our good good adhesion but a 90% contact just by tossing it on the wall like that and it wasn't slipping anywhere great product this is the white cement it looks a little grey doesn't but this is the white and the reason we picked the white is because the glass has just a paper on it and then all the edges are behind the sheet will actually bring that color for so if we use the dark grey cement your white glass is gonna turn a really dark grey on you we don't want that before I put the glass on I'm just going to make sure that my edge here is nice and clean and this is important when you're doing glass make sure that this edge here is nice and clean we're just gonna start in the edge here and the same as the other tie we'll start right on the base okay nice and tight and then I'm going to just lift it up and what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna use my tool to lift so I'm not pressing against the wall I'm just gonna give it a little bit pressure voila that's not moving anywhere when I put the tile above it I'm gonna get exactly the same result that's not going to move anywhere either I'm gonna already put my grip line there done right and so for some of these trickier places it's hard to reach you can't get your travel in and around this corner and because I was busy building that other wall first I've let this dry feel free to just add your cement to the back of the tile okay be real liberal here hold your trowel out of about 75 80 degrees and then just run that off we'll end up getting the same thickness as is on the wall okay just like that do all sides of the hole all right take the extra cement off and then just fire it over there done okay so the only other thing it needs to know is this when you're done your tile work the next day you come back take all your spacers out all right take the wet sponge and force it in all the lines and clean them all out the cements that we're using here within 48 hours you can wipe them out pretty simply and it'll actually clean up real nice without any tools or risk of damaging your tile also when you're doing the round the sides down the bottom of the tub you usually do that at the end of the job save some of this tea product okay from Mapai and use that down there too and then you can build backwards knowing that the tiles not going to slip in and make a big mess other than that patience patience patience keep your lines level get a laser level I can't stress that enough and you'll have a successful tile job too okay some before we start doing this let me just talk about the parts real quick the real Bell pro system comes with a surface mounted plate and this gets screwed to the roughing valve that's in the wall and it has a gasket on the back that seals to the tile now depending on the tile condition you may or may not want to use a silicone bead after you're done a lot of times this sort of thing doesn't work if you're using a subway tile because there are inconsistencies with the surface texture and the grout lines if it's a really large piece of stone and you're cut right down the middle then this is plenty enough to seal it shut so what you have to do is you want to take your long screw they come really big and put it into the the wall and just slide your fingers on it tell you know the surface that's your surface depth that you have to put the screws into and then you go look backwards until you see the next ring all right and this is a soft brass and you just take your side cutters alright and you just give them a shot like that and that is cut-to-fit again just confirm what I did there right there we go back to there and use your side cutters okay there we are and now we have our plate so we slide it over our valve trim and we want to do this first before we add all the other pieces because we need the extra light going in there to find the hole okay and just wiggle it around and just put a finger tight for now there we go okay wonderful next thing you want to do is put on the glove because these brass fittings that they make for the shower valves are very very sharp and find somewhere to put that it's not going to wreck anything take out the temporary test plug throw that in the garbage alright so in this particular case and you have to be really careful to check your instructions for all these things because every system is a little bit different in this particular case there is an extension that goes with the valve probably because the valve body is made really deep from this particular manufacturer so that it can handle pressure balance multi-port plus thermostatic valve so this is just an extension of this valve here so these two pieces will sit together and then this end here with the gaskets and the pins will sit right in the cradle so all you do is slide this stuff in and there you go once you feel it sink into those two pins you're good all right now this is just the decorative chrome trim that goes over the brass fitting there is a hole near the front that goes on the bottom that's in case any water gets into that valve and it has a way to drain that doesn't go in behind the wall all right another good reason why when you're installing your valve in the wall don't be afraid to install it just like one degree slope that way all the water that gets into that valve will drain out of the mouth now there is a gasket there we go you want to tighten up our screws and just snug don't over tighten it's just made of plastic and you'll destroy it and then after that you just set this on the name of the company rebelled cuz at the bottom and you snap it in place those screws and if you ever need to remove it you can just get a good hold of it and give it a good tug and it'll pop off again so here I was so focused on making a video I forgot the most important part just about to turn the water on on my brain when Wade you haven't put the yeah look at this if I don't put this on first hold that Assembly's gonna come firing across the room wreck my silicon work wrecked my day now here's a get before you go any tools that would check the manufacturer's instructions these guys actually aren't a big fan of wrenches here even though it's set up for it they want you to go finger tight for a reason because they want to make sure that everything is lined up properly and you can feel it okay if you start using a wrench and it isn't lined up properly you may not even notice it here we go quarter turn is plenty I happen to know from experience that that was gonna work out great here we go Oh before I put the handle on I got to put this on again or do this a little bit backwards but this will still work okay water still off so I can cheat get my set screw in there okay and then don't forget the cap so that when you turn the water on it doesn't get all wet and it'll look pretty hot and cold oh that's simple all right we have our face plate our handle and a little set screw cover all in place so we can leave that for now let's move on to the tops both now the tub spout and of course we as a you just pull it out and I'll show you this unit this should be a slip on yes now before I went you did the plumbing for this bathroom I inquired with the company because it didn't have the finishing trim on hand and they assured me that it was a slip on and so that's why I ran a half copper and put a test cap on it and of course comes with its own allen key and that's the set screw for this so you have to back this one off you'll see it comes fully inserted it'll drive you crazy trying to push that on the line so just back that off until it's out of the way and now it's ready to install okay the handle and we're just going to take a little pipe cutter now the slip-on starts here and there's lots of room in that pipe all the way in so you can see we're good to go so what I generally like to do is I like to cut it as far out as I can here around three inches in case you ever want to change that to another system and you need to have the ability to solder on a male thread some of these fixtures that come they have a threaded pipe in here so this way if I leave a little extra pipe and I've gotta solder on a connection and do any other plumbing in another date the options there for somebody if you cut too far back it just makes it really difficult to fix it later not every company does everything the same way so it's nice to leave yourself options when you're working you'd be surprised when you're in this business how often you'll get a call from a client five ten or fifteen years later and they want to just make one little modification for a couple of changes or even six weeks down the road this one's got a little bit of water in it I drain the line so it shouldn't be under pressure there we go of course remember we're going to be using our silicone when we're done the finishing trim so as soon as you can get that water cleaned off the grout so that doesn't absorb too much the better you want to have that great line as dry as possible when you go to silicone so that you know what's going to stick before you put your fixture on grab your sand cloth that just give me a quick buff okay if your ridges aren't too sharp it's not going to wreck your little gasket in here and it won't hurt your fingers either you just force that one on okay you want to just make sure that the name is up and everything looks square reach underneath with the allen key find that little spot okay there we go remember these are all plastic parts in there so don't over-tighten just make a nice and solid here we go what's that old song two out of three ain't bad but we're not done yet this is the real Bell Pro to jet showerhead yeah but three jets our heads and rain showerhead options and it's just manual control right here you gotta love it oh that's a good-looking showerhead okay so this particular set wear head also comes with the arm and there's a little flange here as well and this is nice it comes with a sticker to tell you which direction the water should be flowing which is kind of funny because traditionally the longer piece of pipe does go in the wall and that's kind of normal so it's nice to see I've been doing it right all these years okay and so this is nothing simple it is nothing to this this flange is really basic and it's just a compression fit okay you just want to wiggle it on and there's little teeth on the back that have been kind of snapped out of the tin and so you put that in there like that okay and you're good to go now hopefully I don't get soaking wet here either oh yeah oh here we go well if you haven't seen the project video and you haven't familiar with a time buy these in my specialty plumbing store and this is the same size as this pipe but it has a little gasket on it so these are temporary that I put in there that's a shutoff system it's also a identification system for installing wall board and tile it's exactly the same dimension as my pipe and so when I install this I know exactly how to make my cuts so these tiny little flanges that they come with when I go and install that it covers that hole perfectly no guessing love that here is my system now for installing the shower arm and your wall okay you want to take your teflon tape and you just roll it around three four five six seven eight nine ridiculously ten times around and I'll tell you why I'm paranoid I'm doing a compression fitting inside a wall cavity and after I turn the water on if it doesn't work it'll leak and no one are low until it makes a big mess on the ceiling downstairs and because I'm paranoid I'd like to go a little overboard I also like to take a little bit of this thread sealer paste and run it up on to the female fitting inside the wall so now I've got two kinds of seal that are going on in here there we go okay now here's the secret go backwards a little bit until you feel it sit in there in the room okay wow this is gonna be snug right out of the gate so it's hard to tell the difference between cross threaded or just installed brass and brass now you want to fight with this until you get it in there perfect that's exactly nice and tight like I like it however it's pointing up with the ceiling so we have to fix that so these shower arms are not made of metal that won't break so you have to be gentle and careful with this but I like to get a little extra leverage on this instead of holding it here I like to hold it out here so I'll put a screwdriver right in through the hole turn and use wiring in on the pipe okay now the showerhead and has little flat pieces on the neck here that's for a wrench it's amazing how many people will call and complain that there's a little drip of water coming out of here and going right into their tub oh my but it happens now inside here there's a gasket okay so that should work just compression finger-tight all right so what you think you got it figured tight reach in behind there find those little flat sections give it a couple more turns and try to get it on there as tight as you can [Music] now at this point it should be pretty much rip sitting on that gasket and the way you make sure that this is done is you grab your wrench set it on the flat pieces okay and then you give it a couple of turns but make sure you're only grabbing the flat pieces of that shower fixture all right so now we've got all of our fixtures installed starting to clean up dual of our silicone and then we can actually test all of the system well there's automatically going to the tub perfect [Music] so we're pretty much at the last stage of our project and this done the tub the shower the tile the fixtures were all done so now it is time to do the silicon this is the last step that we have to do to finish inside the tub surround and there's a few tips and tricks that I'm going to share with you so follow me along with it as we go through this when I'm doing a tub shower I always want to have two types of silicone one is it clear and the other one is my white or the color that matches my stone if I'm going with the natural brown stones of course I use the page there are greys and there if you go to a nice supply store you can get silicone in about 15 different colors okay so don't be afraid to shop around and make sure you're going to get the look you want when you're done but because we have a glass mosaic I'm going to start with my clear silicone and we're gonna do all the clear silicone areas at the same time and then we'll switch it all over okay so here we go first remove the tip now my cocking gun has a cutter on the side makes my life simple boom done alright and then I also have this little wand that's attached to it it's a little filthy here but and that is used because the tube itself is sealed and I have to puncture the seal so that I can have the silicone be released once I'm done it sits back on the handle put it in the cradle and line it up now I cut it on a bit of an angle and purpose because I find it easier for installation one of the things you need when your silicone is you want to have towels around okay you want to keep your hands clean and keep your area clean as you go now because you punctured it with a dirty stem I'm just gonna start off by cleaning it out and making sure what comes out of the tube is exactly perfect no because it's glass mosaic if I use white silicone here over top of my grout I'm gonna get a really uneven nasty line on all my glass so I'm just going to start right here and I'm gonna just run a nice little bead to there okay and then put my dry finger on it as soon as I feel like I'm getting a lot to build up I'll pull it off all right done that's simple and in this corner just a little bit of pressure and this particular gun when I let go the handle but I have to put a fun pressure here and that releases the pressure inside the tube so the cocking should stop coming out and we'll just start with the dry finger the other place I need clear silicone is on my fixture to my tile wall now depending on the stone that you use you may or may not need to do this but because I did a subway tile I have a little bit too much texture on the wall and too many grout lines interrupting my installation so I want to make sure that the water that's running down this wall can't get in behind my wall now I don't need to go all the way around but I want to just start at the top with a drier finger of course wipe down on the towel and then come the other way here we go yeah next thing I want to do a new towel show you a little trick here wrap your finger in your towel and set it on your plate use your other finger against the plate pinch your finger and then just run it around the plate okay what this does is it make sure that it cleans the silicone off of the chrome nice and tight to the wall so it has a good look and finish so we also want to do the same thing to our tubs bed and here we are again we don't need much there's not a gap here really but I hear a lot of people get quite concerned about this scenario and they're probably right to be anyway you know we have a waterproofing system there are holes in the wall and this is the most common penetration point is around the fixtures just a little bit of pressure here you don't want to put so much pressure they wipe it all off I need you the same time you don't want to leave it on there either okay similar system for wiping that off only this time well I'm holding the towel I pinch my finger and I stick my other finger out and I use it like I'm scribing okay there we go now remember when you're buying your silicone at the store if you're going to the building store they have usually three kinds all right they've got kitchen and bath silicone and then they have kitchen or bath mold and mildew resistant and then they have kitchen bath mold and mildew resistant but it's really awesome and it's gonna last 20 years I have never seen a bathroom that cocking it was 20 years old that didn't need to be replaced so I don't spend the extra five bucks for something that tells me it's gonna last that long I only get the 10-year and the cap snap right back on again yeah no don't lose your teeth it is only plastic oh I mean really yeah now there's a lot of debate about silicone in a bathtub I've seen people say you shouldn't grope the inside corners don't grope the tub to the tile wall shouldn't be grouting to the ceiling I'd like to do all the grit get it all sealed up because when I silicone I only do one application I don't want to have to put so much silicone in there that is just making a huge mess I don't want to have to tape the ceiling and tape the walls so if I grab first then I have a backing for the silicone to bind to so what I do make sure you wear your shoes and you do this or you'll slip right off and your socks start from your inside corner with your tip angled like this so when I'm applying my and I'm pushing it out in front of me but I'm not scraping it off the back I'm going to just leave enough there I'm filling the hole and really this takes a little bit of practice have the right amount of pressure if you're not comfortable with this you can always tape it and then you can wipe it and then you can pull the tape off later but this is the best way to do it right here okay again dry finger and really I'm just connecting the ceiling to the wall here and that's it I'm feeling there's too much okay so I'm gonna have my rag with me come back you have to leave and come back again come back a couple of inches and gently into the corner and slowly apply your pressure again all right BAM okay so generally I'm working my top down okay I want to be able to clean as I go and I started in the corner and I pull and I clean you can see the difference for the cocking isn't where the cocking is it's a very easy visual thing to manage let me get my tip proper here there we go you just run it along move the cocking gun just a little bit ahead of the cocking and now I always wipe back towards where you were just like doing drywall mud on your ceiling joints so what we're doing here now this side of the wall because the room wasn't level in square I have a pretty significant grout gap and when you only silicone the grout to the ceiling but not the tile you're really gonna see it show you know always scream at you so I did the top joint and now I'm filling in the bottom while the top is still waiting blending them together here okay so instead of my finger on an angle like that I'm going more straight along now I'm trying to fill this gap with the silicone right down to the tile okay hmm no value and I am pretty darn pleased with that okay the next is you gonna bring it down from the ceiling inside corner and we're gonna just fill that in concave you know there's cut tiles and different joints going on here I remember we have clear here so don't run into the clear what you want to do is use your thumb and just push it back and start right at the joint of the tile okay so visually I want my silicon to start where my tile is okay and even in the grout is fine but don't bring down to the glass that'll just look really cheesy and it'll scream so now I start up at the top with your finger press it in run that down dry done okay of course keep in mind always looking to see if the tile has been polished properly okay if there's any dust on there and just take a second and get rid of it you don't want to be attaching your caulking to dust or it'll just end up wiping away all right so we're done silicon in our walls now with the silicon the tub but before we get down our hands in these remember when we originally were working on this project if you haven't seen this you got to watch the other videos we were removing the wall without damaging the ceiling which is tough because they had drywall tape now we've installed our tile and we've used the silicone on the ceiling that ceilings already finished paint if you're in a situation where you have to paint your ceiling you only have two options you can wait to silicone and until after you're done painting or if you're just trying to touch it up and you have a silicone in the ceiling you can actually when this is dry you can put painters tape over top of that to create an edge and then you go to the store and you buy a can of kills ki ll Z it's in the paint department in an aerosol can and you just couple of quick shots that kills on silicone and you can paint latex paint over top of that and you won't run into any problems okay so the last thing we have to do is silicone around the tub to the tile to create that nice clean joint now remember it's not part of the waterproofing process but it is part of what makes it look pretty now if you are not familiar with acrylic tubs and you've only used steel then you can just go ahead and do it with a steel tub you just do the seal and walk away but if you have an acrylic tub there is something you have to do before you silicone and that is put weight in the tub okay and the best way to do that just turn on the water and let it get about half way full so now the reason we have to do this is because this is a very flexible material and although it has supports and all kinds of spraying underneath if I was a demonstrate any other technique for a large majority of subs that are sold out there you're gonna be very disappointed not every tub has as much support underneath it or as much reinforced spraying with a fiberglass underneath so if you go to the hardware store and you buy yourself a tub and you get a great price on it it's probably because when you fill it full of water it's going to sink okay and it's gonna pull away from the wall a little bit and so if you add the silicone when it's empty when it pulls away it'll break the joint on you and then you'll get all the water and the dirt in behind there and even though it's waterproof it'll start to go ugly because it'll trap all the colors from the dyes and the shampoos and the dirt off you and then before you know it a couple weeks goes by and your silicone joint looks like garbage then you got to do it all over again and that's a lot more work than doing it right the first time so same kind of process we're gonna set our gun into the corner and we're not going to add too much like again I've already grounded that joint and I've crowded the joint because I use a tub that's reinforced and it has feet and I know it's not going to move it around too much so I'm not going to get that breaking out take my cloth set my finger in the corner and I was feeling a lot of silicone there okay so there's too much so what I do does that push against the back wall and not on the bottom and I just clean up the edge there we go now a lot of this is just experience but a little bit of practice and you can get really good at this and I would suggest if you're gonna do a renovation project like this before you tear it all apart cut out the existing silicone on your ugly tub and tile and then try sealing it again just so you have a chance to get some experience with the product that way when you're ready to do your finishing work you already know how kind of pressure to use and how comfortable you are with this process now this is incredibly important here even good pressure on this silicone because this bond is part of your waterproofing system this is not just for being pretty most water the penetrates between the tub and the tile is in this wall area right here there isn't a waterproof joint after the silicone between the wall board and the tenth this nice light bead leave a little bit of a dollop at the top of course you know the pressure I'm using here I want to actually feel the tub and the tile with my finger on both sides you rock around the corner here here we go nice clean look okay we where I going on I can't stress the importance of having clean towels around-- totally paper also works but this is nice and durable okay so now we're ready to do the last joint which of course is the tub to the tile make sure you vacuum clean make sure there's no dirt and the same thing you want to just leave that bead really consist in here move at a nice consistent pace with consistent pressure and you'll end up with a great result okay now this is part of the waterproofing system this silicon here is actually going to keep the water from getting between the tub and the floor tile so I'm actually trying to force it in the gaps out here that's why it takes a little bit more effort to get a good look because I'm actually forcing it in there pretty tight I'm getting it up the side of the wall of the tub and all across the floor so like I said it's a little different process here okay this time I'm going to put all the pressure on my finger on the floor and not on the tub just so I can move that line back you can only do this with the drive finger if your fingers wet you're just gonna smudge it around and make a mess so remember the last thing you're gonna do is take a look at your wall tile and your floor tile and think about the water that it's gonna potentially be coming over here especially if you got young ones having a tub in here seal this area as well just a tiny little bead so it's almost in significantly ok and there's two things you're doing here one you're getting rid of any little gaps and cracks and your finish so that it always looks pretty this is also cosmetic but by filling this up with silicone you're also waterproofing this joint okay so that's about everything you need to know to apply your silicone again the steps are pretty basic lots of pressure make sure you fill your gaps make sure the surfaces are nice and clean and then let it dry don't be in a hurry most of these silicones you want 612 even 24 hours so read the instructions on the can they'll all have that information there let all this sit with the water in the tub overnight for sure and then maybe in the morning you can come by and drain it and wash it all up and see if you've missed anything if you've missed anything you want to get this touch-ups done within 24 hours okay if you let it all perfectly clear and then you add silicon on silicon it doesn't bond very well so the next morning is the time you want to have a look if you got any air bubbles go address them right away and your bathroom will stay nice and dry so in this video I'm going to share a construction cheat with you so that if you end up shipping one of your existing tiles and you don't have any more of those around there is a way to repair it it may not be perfect that all depends on how good an artist you are so here's our chip the story is this we did a great job doing a demolition and then the client ordered a tub that was bigger than the hole so then we had to use our grinder to cut back the tile line and that went perfectly and then Maddy my son was cleaning up the subfloor and of course his hammer hit the edge of the tile and caused the chip so not everything goes perfectly all the time and I'm gonna show you my little trick for fixing this up when you go to the hardware store you can actually buy porcelain glaze these little little bottles okay and you go down to the tub section and usually have a little display comes in a little white box and they have all the different manufacturers that they carry and they have a porcelain glaze yeah what they don't have is gray so then you go to the paint department and you buy a can of grey stain okay and you had a couple of tools in the cardboard box and you mix all these together now both of these are oil base so I have great tile I grab the gray stain if you have a different colored tile you can go to your Michaels paint department or something like that you know you can get some oil-based paints and all your different colors and you basically take your paint and you mix it up with your glaze until you have something that looks a lot like your floor tile now that's probably just a little bit light still I'll add a little bit more of my stain there we go now generally you're gonna want to do this in about two applications come over here and a little dab'll do you want to just use your little tool pull it right up to the edge where that chipped off the glaze so you getting the color of the stone and the glaze okay there you go so now if there's too much of it just take your flat tool pull it back okay the only thing left while it's still nice and wet is take a little bit of a paper towel and just buffing the area around the stone that's not included with the chip okay voila now it's not perfect but it is a lot better than that chip that was there two minutes ago yeah a little a little bit of glaze kit here it comes to this little handy dandy piece of sandpaper and what you do is you give this about an hour let it dry come back and you can sand it down nice and smooth and if you like you can mix a couple more colors at this point put in a little bit of a little bit of a darker color and you can mix up a little bit you can even get an artist brush okay and you can just dab in a little bit of that two-tone texture on there and you can spend as much time and energy as you like as many coats as you like just make this serious and between coats and when you finally get the one you're looking for just walk away now you're sealed up in that floor is waterproof again so most people they have a damaged piece of wall board whether it's a renovation like we were doing here behind us where we have a bit of a seam issue or they've got a doorknob dent in the wall or they're just gonna repaint a room and they've got little pinholes where they have pictures and screws and plugs and so I'm going to share with my secret today for how to fill all those things and the reason this is such a huge secret is because it feels it super fast you don't have to sand it and you don't have to prime it and you don't even need to use two coats of paint to finish it all right this is my secret in the trades for whenever I've got to do a touch-up and I'm ready to head out of a project and I see something I don't like I can take five minutes and fix that before I walk out the door and it doesn't need any work after I'm done and here's the trick you got on a knock on a four inch knife alright let's go to your store and make sure you buy them so what you want to do is you want to grab some sheetrock 45 all right now this is a quick drying drywall compound it comes in powder form and you've got to mix this yourself all right and you take your hock and you set it over your sink and you just want to make a little bit of a volcano here okay and this is easier to do with a lot of it harder to do with a little but you really want to set up a little bit of a volcano okay there we go now before we get started the secret here is hot running water make sure you get the water running first and once it's hot bring it into your volcano well this is gonna take a little bit of practice to get used to how much water to put in there now you want to hold it and you've got a couple options you can leave it on there for about a half an hour or so but it'll harden faster then you can mix it or you just take your knife off the edge lift up some of the loose powder and shake it in there like you're icing a cake okay work your way around the volcano your cake if a little bit starts to come out don't worry about it there's not enough water there to cause a problem no once you've gone all the way around the edges you should start to become more of a paste okay and then you can just break it up and you mix it in right here on enough okay no mixing tools no pails no muss no fuss right here on your heart use your orange knife and just work this in now it's more of a paste now you just want to flatten it out now make sure all your bumps are out of there okay the smoother this is when you put it on the wall the easier it will be to finish you just check right there like that yeah I'm loving this so now I've got a drywall compound that's got a hardening agent in here that's chemically activated and anybody who knows any science knows when you add heat to any kind of chemical reaction it speeds up the reaction that is why we are using hot water on this so generally 45-minute mud with regular cold water takes 45 minutes to an hour to set up but if you add hot water you can be sending this in 20 minutes if you have a really hot water or if you live out in the country a lots of minerals be careful because this can set up in five to ten minutes okay and so then what we're going to do is we'll show you will apply some of this mud here and so this is my finished coating all right nice and tight and I'm really pressing this on here and they goal is to fill every little scratch every bump okay so that this wall is nice and smooth this particular wall had that be resurfaced with a new corner because we changed the tub and I just started working on this this morning this is now the third coat of mud I'm putting on here okay there we go now that is gonna be beautiful you know we try have this channel to show people all the tips and tricks for doing the work themselves I remember even the most complicated project still needs to have simplified finishing alright so here we go just gonna double check to make sure everything here is good hey boasts any bubbles this one was done earlier had a lot of people comment on the on the channel you know can you do wet sanding is there any way to keep desks down what oh I'm just doing a small space and I wanna make a mess this is the system for you so you just take your sponge you get these at the building store in the tile Department this is for actually doing grout and I'll just demonstrate here real quick this is mud that's just been pressed on it's got the wrinkles and these to be feathered out okay and you just give it away there you go let it dry you're ready to paint I know it's that simple once again you know just go around your fixtures take the excess off you see any ridges just wipe them out there you go ready to paint and the best thing about this 45 minute mud is even after you get it wet because it has a hardener it'll dry in just a couple minutes so if you want to get a job done in the same day you can take a whole room do all your patching and then you don't have any priming to do or if you've already finished your project and you bump a wall with your ladder on the way out you can do your 45 minute mud put it on there real quick give it a few minutes you even take a hairdryer to help dry it off damp sponge okay come back with some paint get a little mini roller and you can touch up your paint job and walk out the door within the hour and that is money in the bank thanks for joining us on this edition of how to renovate your tub and tub surround from A to Z we've covered a lot of information in this series but we also have these broken down into individual videos on our channel in the event that you're doing maintenance or just tackling one small aspect of this we also have a lot of other A to Z videos now so we've got a playlist make you check the link the end of the video for that and remember if you're handling a big project like this for yourself and you have questions go to the comments section we're here to help okay thumbs up if you liked the video looking forward to see on the next time [Music] you [Music]

Channel: Home RenoVision DIY

Views: 3,754,697

Rating: 4.8482971 out of 5

Keywords: bathroom renovation, bathroom remodel, how to remodel a bathroom, diy bathroom remodel, bathroom remodel diy, how to renovate a bathroom, home renovision diy bathroom, diy bathroom remodeling, diy bathroom remodel for beginners, how to remodel a bathroom diy, a to z how to renovate the tub/shower, diy bathroom shower remodel, diy bathroom renovation | step by step guide | from a to z, how to renovate a bathroom shower, how to renovate a bathroom step by step

Id: NS6TPiHaN2Y

Length: 160min 24sec (9624 seconds)

Published: Tue Feb 05 2019