DIY How to Renovate Your Kitchen with a Minimalist Style A to Z

welcome to our video today on how to do a kitchen renovation in a minimalist style everything you need to know from A to Z hi my name is Jeff from Otto I design a build and in this video we're gonna cover everything from demolition to design to layout to features and benefits and how to choose what what to put where what materials to use and how to finish it off so you got a fantastic functional kitchen that any chef will be proud of where again all right in this video today we are going to show you guys how to do a demolition this project we're on is a main floor demo we're doing the kitchen all the flooring separation walls so we're going to show you all the tips and tricks and we're gonna show you how to set up negative air this creates a vacuum that we work in so we don't we need to wear mass and it keeps the house clean this is huge almost everywhere I go I see guys that are in there taking crap apart and all those fine particles go through the whole house and make a huge mess it takes about a half an hour to make this a dust free environment and it'll take a whole day to clean up the mess if you don't do it this way so stay tuned you're getting for a treat ok so guys the demolition process here today is really simple we're gonna start with removing the appliances take them into the back room so they're out of the way it's all the work because they're gonna be saving these so that's the dishwasher and the fridge alright then we're we've already got the water off right yeah we double check yeah ok good so we're off nice always turn off the water before you do a demo oh my lord then we're gonna uninstall all the cabinets ok we're gonna break the cabinet's down flatten them out go on the garbage trick because it takes up a lot of space otherwise alright I'll take care of anything that's electrical for all the hookups from the machines alright so don't touch anything electrical all right beautiful and we've got to maintain or negative air in here okay so you're not going to go to the basement cuz we got that sealed off with our little happy face drawing the fresh air from upstairs into this room this is all sealed off the front door is the only place where we're going to be coming in and out of alright what we want to do is we want to set up a bunch of stuff that needs to go out all right so we rip off all the cabinet's we'll break them down first and then when give it a minute the dust will be sucked out of here then we'll open the door because we're gonna lose our vacuum we'll run it all outside as a crew we'll just hand bomb it onto the truck close the door get her vacuum back before we make them or another match okay so if you're gonna go outside just make sure that there's a reason for it and quick with the door okay beautiful other than that we're gonna leave all the drywall until we're ready to do drywall so it's places first cabinets second then we'll bust this wall open hopefully by the end of the day we can have this all reframed a new support women all right brilliant so let's get started we need the two or three guys roll in the fridge over far side of the living room find a wall plug to put it into not an extension cord if you got a reconnect power for our fans then that's fine there's cords in the in the truck okay this has to go direct into a wall if this fails on because of an extension cord I have to replace it all all right so that's not that happening when you see these them they have the lower freezer pallets they always have a stabilizer on the bottom all right so you always got a great those first so because it's on wheels they don't they're not casters they're just rolling it so you always want to go but first and then drive it in we're changing all the flooring so don't worry about any of it okay all right slide this is going to go this way okay grab the cord grab the stove lift it up and walk it out of here okay yeah so we turn off the water supply in the basement but because we have shutoff valves into the sink we're going to turn those off as well this way at the end of the day in case somebody does something stupid here when I'm not looking I'm not gonna start a flood all right we need these out of the way anytime you have a door screwed in the melamine it's real easy to remove you don't need a drill so our demolition process is not like you see on TV we are basically uninstalling everything going in reverse order so that we can maintain the integrity of all the mechanical electrical and plumbing systems here and we can maintain the integrity of the appliances whenever you start pulling out a sledgehammer to take something down that's been screwed to a wall you're just wasting time and energy and making a hell of a mess so if you want to install it instead of demolish it like an idiot maybe it's not as pretty on camera but it sure is a lot faster sure is a lot cleaner because they're saving it and want to reinstall I want to save these screws yeah they just go back on the foot whenever you're saving something I always put the screws back worried about it cuz that'll be what you lose all right now most dishwashers are screwed to the countertop when it would do these little slams things then you're not special screws but and then that's it okay now the only other thing that has to happen here is we need the disengageable somebody to access for that again put our screws back so we don't lose them there were two cords in here plugged into an outlet under the seat it's a little odd but turns out that one of them is actually for the dishwasher so we have already turned off the power regardless of what they find out in the panel so that works out really well for us all right so all of this stuff even the water supply so I'll run up and over they cut up the cabinet in order to fit all that in you know if I had a dollar for every time I saw this to get this shot look at this where the electrical comes through the can see that there supposed to be a grommet there that keeps those wires from rubbing against the shirt metal so it doesn't come into it and then charge the whole hood fan to make it electrical you'd be surprised how many people get electrocuted every year because they got wet hands and they touch this metal light power if it cuts through that black that's just [ __ ] I'm gonna show you how to effectively make this safe light or remove it all this stuff we're gonna just take our cutting tool we're gonna cut these wires back so now the only exposed wire on that is at the very tip and we're just gonna take some electrical tape here it's not was so difficult to find the and beginning in okay generally speaking the white isn't supposed to be charged but when I see an idiot installed a hood fan I don't know what he's done on the other end so I'm not gonna take any chances so you just roll it around and around and around and around around so now no exposed wires out there okay we already know that we can't trust the labeling on the electrical panel downstairs because we tried to turn off the dishwasher and it didn't work so we can't trust anything that that's been done on the electrical in this house that much as appear okay so like usually there's four screws this parts at least been done someone right it's a real handyman special we do this drop and then pull towards us here we go again this is wrong when you were looking at the back of your hood fan you should measure from the top corner here down and across to where your hole is working on your wall remove the drywall around there so this wire should be coming out through that hole not tucked in around getting all covered in grease risk and getting cutting on the hood fan okay again I think when we're doing this job we're gonna get real close attention the electrical around here can't take anything for granted somebody's a real idiot the water supply for the dishwasher here is a soft copper but it's all seized on there it's been there for so long alright that's taken off this is the drain line it's on a hose clamp so we'll just back that off and that's awesome this is how old this is the attachment is completely sheared off that is you that's that's the best right there again we are gonna be changing the water supply on it because this is just stupid except for the appliances can we get this out of here please my way there we go so in order to get this machine oh I'm gonna just remove the countertop it'll make it if I just take up the the sink first that makes my life simple look at that the clock wasn't even sight I don't have an access there's no this is just so wrong so wrong here we go pull that out so just for the record everything about this plumbing is wrong I don't have an adjustment here I can't take off my pee trap in case you lose your wedding ring so solid plumbing right this collar it's the wrong kind of color that's supposed to go into a copper pipe to transition from copper to ABS this is the wrong kind of gasket which is why it broke which is why this is all crud which is why everything is rotting this is a whistle vent it's not even legal in Ontario I doubt it is anywhere else in the world I know they sell it at the hardware store for handy people but you shouldn't be using that the weird thing is this quarter halo 14 honestly gravity does a lot of the work here the only reason we attach it is to keep things from working overtime okay [Music] cross garbage and then there's anything holding it together go ahead just lift it up like crazy okay stop for a second I can have a crescent wrench okay now we got water supply Nate not too crazy because uh there's a washer that's supposed to be inside them so all you got to do is make contact and give it a little tighten we're not gonna try to save any of this plumbing for obvious reasons okay okay rip that okay walk right out it's under the truck gentleman this is an electrical box and I know it just screwed to the NDF so I'm just gonna pry it off we leave it alone for now so this is my blood I got a cutoff wire back here I got I got I'll find it silly stupid things going we're just trying to get access as a dis machine not as a trash compactor man this is back before Green was cool nice next up is we're finishing all the base cabinets because then it's easy to get in there and hold them while you're unscrewing them from the wall instead of Smashing away and having crap fire in everywhere right okay so this countertop can go I haven't unscrewed it yet screws are just impractical we do want to make these small enough to put it in the truck like this these are usually okay that screw to the drywall that's where they're not gonna be much help is it and then these cabinets are usually screwed together so these cabinets went in before all these layers of flooring so you got to kind of roll it there you go okay beautiful it's a receptacle these are those child safety caps right covered in dust that's just a fire waiting to happen don't you feel like you're something this job was an idiot there we go basically what we're doing here is we're just gonna trying our best to leave the mess up in the truck you're given these guys like cabinets letting them pull it apart out in the truck that way it keeps keeps things rolling this allows me to stay in here doing the majority of the work and then cover all the surprises just so that we don't have any of the guys have a weird accident you can tell by the flooring here this was the original extent of the cabinet so this is the original cabinet went to here that was probably a plug for the original fridge now it's been relocated with a new plug it was buried behind the cabinet extension that you see in this floor you can also see the difference on the wall color paint that would have been the original paint that would have been another color and now we have the third color lots of modifications going on and nobody really taken the time to do all right most renovation companies are more than happy to do things in layers more flooring more flooring more flooring they never take anything back to the beginning it'll make my Klum's it's not a new concept to not hide electrical it's always been illegal so I just don't know why it would continue to keep on finding it here we go buddy Wow now here's the joke we have now found the original floor this kitchen cabinet here in the corner is the only one that shimmed Wow that is amazing this kitchens probably been renovated three or four times oh look at that there's there's the original drain line for the sink so this is the original drain line this one would have a vent yep there's a vent line here right above it so somebody modified this area moved electrical God help us all and move the drain over change the water supply so whoever did this renovation was a complete incompetent [ __ ] oh yeah yeah they they they moved the sink but didn't maintain the drain because the drain would have interrupted that precious little trash come back in machine and so then they they did all of this with this cheap little valve that they've got for this bringing air to the sink holy cow look at that the pipe for the drain for the sink it just popped it it wasn't ever glued unbelievable yeah how to build a kitchen cabinet 101 the best way to remove this bass cabinet around all that plumbing when the water is off chances are this crap has been exposed to all kinds of water over the years and has no integrity problem-solve right we got this microwave cabinet I don't know if this is gonna yeah they jig down a hole for the electrical but not big enough for the actual receptacle Oh they've already got it taped so you take it out and you point it like that and you put it back in so when you pull the cabinet off you don't go grip on the wiring out with it and cause a fire okay all of these cabinets are screwed to the wall and screwed to each other have been painted a thousand times dude looks like this is all into the framing that's good [Music] looks like a screw unfortunately you're gonna have to beat the hell out of it ready yeah downward strokes only nothing left to right so if you lose your so just a quick lesson all right when we turn this light on this is my power you can tell because all the blocks are joined together so there's a power coming into the box goes to that plug end goes to the lights there's two wires coming off the top of this which is wrong they should be twisted together and one wire to this group but here they got one of the screw and one another little self-feed system stupid and then that's what these two are we're gonna cut both of these speeds leaving but this is just temporary until our electrician come and fix all this mess all right and we're gonna put caps on each of these wires just in case there's another junction somewhere else is bringing power through that line now when I'm doing this I'm not looking at the junction if it sparks it's small guess I did it right sometimes you just don't need a drill so when you have a hole this big in the floor realistically that's the size of the hole you need in the wall for the cold air return there's no sense having this two-foot-long grill this is an electrical safely and this decided to hold the wire against the wood so it doesn't get trapped in the drywall when you close these staples come with tabs see that okay yeah all right Gordon Electrical Code this tab is not supposed to be in contact with a wood but it's human nature for most people to put that in there until those tabs are buried in the wood now it's stuck here god damn well let's go to the New World and sail that ship here's the problem with it behind that that wire is under compression all right so it's like trying to take five lanes of traffic in Toronto and force it down two lanes and tell everybody they can't slow down you're gonna have a problem right so what happens there is you gonna build up a heat all right and in electrical world when you have too much heat you get a fire so that installation is actually legal and if there was ever an inspector on this job they would have failed this installation before they closed the ball so now because we even saw one staple like that I know this guy is not an electrician I know we didn't have it inspected and I can't trust any of the wire in the whole house so every time I see something I go how many ways could that start a fire and what do I not want to do so when I'm taking things apart I have to be completely careful around here because hey I don't know if this guy grounded anything I don't know I mean if he doesn't know that part of the electrical code how much more does he not know right they have wires wrapped around heat ducts downstairs and everything else it's really hard to tell so we're opening this up and we find the drywall is conveniently cut exactly the same size as this this framing here we look at the floor we're finding parquet flooring really bad electrical rework after the fact and now when I take a closer look at this framing I see metal outside corner beam so this was originally an access into the dining room from the kitchen somebody closed it off to make the kitchen bigger which explains why there are so many things on the other side of the wall now we're done illegally this is a handyman special lovely that's nice we retired to the ceiling at least that way that's good yeah we're getting a bit of a benefit here so this is all about leverage right yeah it's not about strength getting near that now I'm gonna just put your weight behind it like rowing a boat let me get rid of corner beads usually they're nailed it older homes can I see the nails which is cool so you want it come through that 45-degree angle there's nothing but dry old on tour nervy all right and you break it off you don't wanna be touching it because it's galvanized metal this could be rusty so unless you likes having lockjaw you just go into the drywall and traditionally these old guys they put a nail on each side of the same height they're good for that you can kind of count on it every foot or so all right let me just use then law and that's how you remove a quarter of a you don't ever get your hands involved in this mess all right whenever we have a wall plug we want to punch a hole in the drywall just above that just beneath that way our plug is independent of the drywall one we're pulling it up we're not going to pull the electrical circuit off the wall Wow I'm feeling ductwork there's our company here feeling ductwork there we haven't whole we have a stack all the electrical is in between two studs here and you dandy [Applause] so the goal here is to identify how the structure operates we see evidence of all of these double - light pours sitting right on top of joists so we're thinking these are always a type of point load so we just got open up the ceiling so we can see which way the joists are running and where we be able to restore and repair the structure [Music] [Music] Wow most nights that they put in the paper barrier to a basement totally unnecessary so this is really cool these are just really giant tongue and groove laminate board panels looks like eight mil it was good for what it was for this is what we call a 10 to 20 year build just ripping something out and putting a fresh clean look in without any expectation of performance because it's not going to last underneath that we've got a combination of ply woods from different kinds of floorings it looks like the last guy Nate that did this actually took the old sheet goods off left all the back and then decided that that was just a waste of time and then they put down this two-in-one Home Depot special underlay nice that's just so you don't get the crunching underneath your feet when you walk or when you leave the dirt all right I'm not saving any little voltage wiring in this whole house okay don't worry about the condition of any of the drywall you don't need to cut the caulking or anything nothing is getting saved bringing in the big guns let's keep the door shut people we're doing drywall in here now in most cases I'll say is a qualifier if you have vinyl flooring its quarter-inch plywood underneath and they use a staple gun to drive that down the rely on on gravity that works well so you take this bar has a really cool tip on it just lay it on the ground it's very heavy weighs about 30 or 40 pounds and you just slide it under the edges a little bit of downward pressure pop those staples the more room you have to get the six moving the better off you are so this this area here used to be a door and now it's the door yet again so when removing the wall generally it's easier to punch through to the other side around the mechanical alright guys give it a good stuff then just open it like a door rottenness off yeah pushing through just push it through because it's nine feet in an eight-foot hole so make it 8 feet by doing that and then you can yank them out straight in the truck they're garbage right okay here we gonna come now there we go one piece take it out that's one way to make sure that you always see all of our screw holes in the ceiling its install it right to the joists so when they start drying and twisting they always got a nail pop that's why we use strapping before we put on drywall so it's funny I'm over here pulling off this light fixture in the kitchen it's a big fluorescent light right and lo and behold we have aluminum wiring connected directly to this copper light wiring you know it always amazes me when you have aluminum wiring you've got to transition your wire before you connect it to copper you got to have the right barrettes and the right paste where our weight right we're ways to do this sort of thing you can't just say oh it's just a light fixture in cheap cause now you've got copper and aluminum tied together they expand at different temperatures so just because it's our fluorescent light doesn't mean that the wire itself isn't pushing a lot of potential energy that joint it's still gonna heat up and still going to expand in the burette and has a risk of becoming loose fabulous yeah again yeah everything's tightened down so tight just what a joke okay what that's supposed to be attached to me yeah really nothing there that might be into something can I have a Robertson bit and screws into drywall lovely all right so here we are pretty much the end of our demolition the guys are just inside taking off the last little pieces of drywall and cleaning the place up very important when you were done your demolition to clean up don't just broom use a vacuum for whatever reason psychologically clients like to see it clean even if it's all ripped apart wide open expose but here we have behind us this is a whole kitchen when you break it all down it doesn't take up a lot of space so be kind to your environment save yourself a few bucks as well compact all your trash when you're ripping it out and it'll save you a lot of time and money so the only thing left for us to do here today is just pack up for equipment get a nice and clean let the dust free system run for about 15 minutes after we're done just to get all nice and clean and then we'll open up the stairs and access for the client and thanks for watching this video and listen if you've never seen our stuff before my name is Jeff from Ottawa design and build and you're watching us on home rental vision click subscribe if you haven't subscribe and if you are a subscriber then hit the like button let us know that you liked this kind of video this one's a little bit unique so we're curious to get some reaction comment below and tell us what you think alright thanks for joining us [Music] so in today's video we're gonna show you how to prep your floor when you've got big holes like this and get it all set up so you can put in a vinyl floor so here we are we're working in our kitchen project and I've got a big issue we had a structural wall that was right in the way of where we want to put our island we were a little disappointed we figured to be some mechanical and stuff but it turned out to be structure in that wall we had cold air return we had two different heat runs we had plumbing lines water supply venting oh my goodness so we've removed all of that we've built a box and tucked everything into this one corner drop the ceiling and re-routed everything upstairs again but now we have in this issue we got to deal with and if you're in a situation where you've got holes in the floor then I'm going to show you how to solve that now generally speaking 5/8 plywood even with the big hole in the floor is still very strong right next to that hole there's not much deflection so depending on the type of flooring you're going to put in you're going to want to tackle this in a couple of different ways if you're going back with tile you want to put in blocking underneath in this direction so that it'll transfer load and you won't have any deflection if you're gonna be installing hardwood what you want to do is you want to put some backing in there and put the 5/8 plywood back in that hole just to create a flush surface hardwood you usually install opposite the direction of the joists which are running this way so if your hardwoods coming this way you have nothing to nail to so you want to create a nailing surface that's all you need you don't need structure just a nailing surface now if you're doing vinyl like us we need to close this up create a nice strong surface that doesn't deflect and cover it with new sheet of plywood so we have a nice smooth surface as well the vinyl has a tendency to over time fill in all the dents and divots that are in the flooring so we can't just run a new floor over top of it and say that it's good enough we gotta make sure it's gonna last a long long time so let's get into this what I've done is I've pre-cut my block the size of between the joists underneath okay now if you don't have access to the ceiling underneath then you have to work from above this is how you're gonna do it first of all you need something to hold on to this wood so what we're gonna do just makes sense we're gonna put in a screw now I can hold on to this wood no matter what's going on wiggle it in here and then bring it up now you'll see that I have the ability to install this incorrectly if I'm not careful and have it rising too much out of the hole so we want to try to sit this so that we're in contact with the plywood on both sides then what I want to do is I want to use this screw just to make contact to hold it in place and I don't want to drive the head all the way in okay and the reason is this remember we showed you when we're framing lumber when you're installing the screw in an angle it pulls wood around hit it on just the height whoops so we just want to make contact now that that screws in both materials this material won't move around so now that I've got this thing where it's not going to be moving around I'm gonna hold that piece of block drive that screw in nice and tight pull that one out and we'll reuse it on the other side so doesn't work you'll notice that the wood started to pull down so we're going to tighten this up a little more nice and tight and then we'll drive the screw now we've got that set I can take my little extra hand out and drive that one in so I've got four holes in my floor I did you a favor and I pre-cut my five inch plywood in advance so I don't have to waste your time we're just gonna lay these block in the position [Music] now in this situation we don't have to worry about holes around the plywood now there's some significant gaps here if I was installing hardwood it probably takes some extra time square everything off and make this piece of wood a little bit more snug just so that there's always a wood surface there for nailing in to but because I'm going vinyl really all I want to do is make sure that when I put my next piece of plywood on it's gonna go over that gap it's not enough of a hole that it's going to cause it to warp so we're just gonna throw in a couple of screws just to hold it still now in this situation gravity is your friend so you just need a little bit of help so it's not moving around while you're cleaning and that's really all we're doing making sure that when we clean this floor these aren't moving around causing a new debris so you can see the condition this floor now the holes are patched we do have little round holes once again those are not going to be an issue when I put this plywood over top there's enough strength there with the vinyl floor that they're not gonna be den things I'm not gonna worry about anything that's less than an inch okay so the next thing to do in our preparation and this is painstaking depending on what kind of floor you removed in a variety different hardware if it was a tile and there was a plywood screwed on you're gonna have screws removed you're going to be dent and broken and bent over real frustration so screws and nails you want to pry out don't try to use your drill because if the heads are bent you're gonna just wreck your bit get under there and pull out all your nails go over your surface you're gonna find have you had vinyl before you're gonna have these little staples the best tool for that is this clock it has this rocking motion and it'll pull anything out of anywhere if they're buried but just the head sticking up pound them down a little bit get rid of them alright once you've gone over your whole surface and you think you've got them all then you want to sweep and the reason you're sweeping is to clean all the debris off the floor for another visual inspection okay so we're my process that I use when I'm doing new flooring is I will always try to get all my stuff out of there then I'm gonna sweep and then I'm gonna get down on my hands and knees and use the vacuum the reason I do that when I'm down here up close and personal and I've got my face six inches from the floor I'm vacuuming in a sweeping motion it should be so clean if there's anything else in that floor I'm gonna see it at this point I don't want to start laying plywood and then running into problems and finding a nail then because then you've got to take everything off cut little holes patch it up real frustrating so you know the work in this kind of situation is in the preparation all right so just remember that the more prep you do and them the less problems you can run into later [Music] so just one quick tip when it comes time to cut in your plywood check the depth of your blade all right that's really deep it's not necessary after all our materials are only a quarter-inch just adjust your blade don't need to have a three inches of out extension there because you're risk cutting the floor underneath and your risk eating up the blade and sending crap flying [Music] [Applause] now this is not finished carpentry this is rough cutting we're adding drywall reading baseboard retirin quarter-round I just got to get close so when you're measuring it cut like this take your number add an extra half an inch give yourself a little room to play where the plywood's going down you always have to pay attention to two important things one how close do you have all your factory edges to your other factory edges remember nothing's ever square so we're gonna get this nice and tight I want to get this side nice and tight yeah I'm doing that there we go I'm gonna find that I'm a little out of square and that's fine there's a way to fix that later I'm gonna use a crown stapler here just to demonstrate these inch and a quarter u-shaped staple okay and this is really good for thin materials like this because unlike a nail that just has the head holding it down this has the arch of a crown holding it down so done that'll hold this down there are three layers on this wood so it's going different ways of the grain so crown staplers work great for this no stitching the sides remember the rule of thumb here what a staple about every two inches you'll see every time they come off the laminating machine and the factory you're always gonna work now when you put your plywood down what you want to do is step on your work work from the middle and work your way out okay try to keep the hose behind you and start from one side of the material and then work your way through the other side that way are we smoothing it out and leveling it down as you go now inside the body of the sheet of good I like to go whatever six inches squared and I just run it like this all right now when you do that you might find that the odds staple is sticking up give it a shot make sure everything's nice and flush it also helps if your compressors plugged in [Music] all right so now it's time to fill these little gaps because we went to different directions it's really hard to keep everything square what we have here is just a flower patch product there's a lot of difference on the market this is a pre-mixed product that's on the Shelf with the local Billy store that's kind of why I picked it up it's great for homeowners it's the ten dollar size and there's enough in here to do the entire room because you don't need much I have a gap here that's going from zero to hero up to almost a quarter inch okay it's a lightweight spackling lot like drywall just free and fill it in off the side of the knife now this particular product says wait four hours before you walk on it or sand it or anything else okay so there we go the hole is filled this is designed for use when plywood or on concrete so whatever surface you're prepping you can prep it with this forearm now if you want to if you find that you have an issue well here's a clue here's a classic as you I'm going to demonstrate actually turn the laminating process there's a piece of wood that got on the on the board in the factor it should have been there they got imprinted into the plywood this is the kind of thing you really want to take care of I'll fill it and then you'll see it really easy right here this is in the heavy traffic area and that little dent if you don't fill it is gonna end up being a dent in your vinyl floor so take care and look for things like that cuz that's the kind of thing that'll really wreck your day thanks for joining us today that's everything you need to know so that you can take care of laying your own floors at home with on anything that's vinyl sheet goods or vinyl plank being a vinyl plank we are gonna have another video with the vinyl plank installation so we got all the tips and tricks and cutting tools for that and look forward to that but listen if you haven't subscribed to this channel before and just so you know this is a channel that's made for homeowners alright so if you're looking for fixing up your house and you want to get a professional result then keep your eyes on this channel check out our catalog and if you are a subscriber to this channel make sure you hit the like button love to get your feedback comments and questions and below remember I answer every one of these comments so give us your questions bring us your troubles will help us all see you next time [Music] so in today's video we are going to install a new plank floor system and I got a trick for you this is not MDF this is not a laminate this is vinyl yes this is Tori's vinyl floor comes with a brilliant texture cork underlay super-quiet so if you're looking for that kind of install stay tuned there's been a lot of changes in the flooring industry over the last 20 years let's face it the old standard of carpet everywhere and maybe hardwood tile in the bathroom is gone there are new products coming out it seems like every six months to a year and again we have another one here this is a vinyl plank now a lot of you may have seen vinyl plank available at the local building store or over at like your local Costco this is not your vinyl plank you're gonna find there this is the Turley's everwood premier it's a brilliant series the stuffs runs about five to six dollars a square foot so beware if you're looking for a floor that's gonna last a long time this is a good choice for you if you're looking for a quick fix this is probably out of your price range now when you're gonna install a floor like this you want to keep two things in mind preparation and then preparation okay it all comes down to how clean your floor is you can never remove the dirt under a floating floor once you've gotten started so you always want to vacuum do all your sanding on any patches and you're working in the room get yourself swept and vacuumed then double check your floor for squeaks and screws keep your drill handy as you're going if you hear a squeak on the floor stop what you're doing and take some time throw some extra screws in because you don't want to have a squeak in your floor when you're done that will be almost impossible to fix hmm now I have seen a lot of installation videos related to this type of product or different plank floorings and they all kind of follow the same theme right if you've seen them they have their little clip system they have little wedges you put around the perimeter of the room you try your best to keep things square with that and to be honest with you I've tried installing that that years ago and it drove me nuts so what I did is I developed a better system and I'm gonna share it with you first you got to pick which wall you want in most cases you're going to run parallel with the longest wall in the room in this particular place it's open-concept main floor so we had two different options we could run with so the client we discussed it they liked this direction so we'll do what the client says next get out your trusty laser and at both ends of the room you want to measure off the wall at some point or another something healthy like three inches all right we'll do that over here three inches and here's why instead of using wedges I'm gonna put this level laser level on my mark at both ends of the room if you're working alone just set something up at the other end where the mark is so it'll help you to identify when you're on that spot there we go BAM now what I want to do just check measure along the wall everywhere you go and I'm noticing that most of my measurement is pretty consistent it's a little tighter in here plus or minus a quarter beautiful so now I know the wall is relatively straight there's a bit of a bull bow here so when I'm putting the first few boards down I want to make sure that I'm not sliding underneath the baseboard but just touching the baseboard here it'll open a bit of gap of both ends and then I'm gonna be fine because I'm gonna use a cord around to cover it when I'm done so if you like me you like to do things fast you don't want to waste your time what I do is I just start hit the baseboard I drop it there's my first board done when I get to my heat register vent now of course they have the ever click system with these floors so it is brilliant no need to be hammering everything around once you put it together it's just done I just mark right on the floor when I'm going remark my heat register vents I'd rather drill a hole when I'm done and then come back and use my jigsaw to cut it out because that helps to keep the integrity of all of this together because when you're first starting you know we all know I mean it's hard enough to keep this stuff straight as it is right so now what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna take my handy dandy tool about I'm gonna cut a few more boards cuz I like to build three or four rows at a time it helps keep everything straight and square and you're not always running back and forth and fussing around closing gaps and making adjustments alright so here we go we're ready to cut our boards generally you always want to cut from the left side because that's gonna go under the trim so I want to have a board that is about 3/4 and then 1/2 and then maybe something that's like around 2/3 all right that's a good way to start keep the joints away from each other a nice distance now there's a different ways that you can cut this stuff you read the instructions online it says use a knife let's try that and you just score it god that's not easy hit it again [Music] that just seems dangerous you can use a chop saw or you can do what I did grab my laminate floor cutter and see if that works yep I don't know why the online instructions don't include laminate floor cutters but that worked brilliant we're gonna go with that system from now on so what we're doing here is this just a unit click system okay we're just gonna put this stuff together really quite simple the idea is just to get the first couple of rows in okay now you can see because this is tongue and groove on both sides you can't just shove it in with your hands so there's different techniques there is this technique where you can do an entire row of the room like this and then you can lay it in together and you can leave that down and that works if you're working in the room that's gonna be 20 feet long when I cut in that systems unfortunately isn't gonna work for you trying to maneuver all those boards in at the same time it's gonna take three or four people so if you're working alone unfortunately the only thing you have left is a tapping block for me the best way to make a tapping block let's just take a scrap piece of the floor and cut it down to size okay now I got both edges that I can work with all right so here's the other way to install your board with both joints do the short side first and here's why this vinyl and cork has a tongue and groove if you can look at that that's a really long piece of flooring I put that one in and then start tapping from the other side it takes a lot of force to force that because there's a lot a lot of resistance because of the kind of texture we're dealing with now this is gonna operate a lot like my laminate floor video the love-tap just to seal the joint it locks nice and tight okay you don't have to beat the living daylights out of this just a little tap and then all of these joints are locked now you'll see the floor moving all over the place when we're doing this and now this is where the trick comes in so that you don't have this problem so generally when you're doing a plank flooring the problem you run into is everything's moving around as you're using the click system because you've got to use a certain amount of force to make it work so these floating floors tend to slide all over the room to keep that from happening with vinyl you can actually screw it down I would recommend every six inches right near the edge where your quarter-round is going to cover it make sure you've lined it up really good you don't want to over commit with this program and then be moving around later just grab a few screws for every mic when you're all done you can pull the screws out later so that you don't have any bumps where you're putting your cord around down that's closing up really nice beautiful alright so that covers most of the basics of how to install this floor of course you know that when you get to the transitions of the doors make sure you can slide this underneath your casing or install your casing after your flooring that's always my preference and one more thing about this flooring this particular product this company has developed a tool for maintenance over time if you have a damaged piece of flooring like this you want to remove it they have a special stretcher it's kind of like a rib spreader and you can put it down on the floor and you can pull the floor apart and then you can lift the board out and then reinstall a new one this is why the manufacturer suggests that you have room around the outside of the floor okay so that it not for expansion contraction purposes but for maintenance purposes okay so when you're done doing your floor like this make sure you pull out your screws because one day down the road you might need to make the call and then I can swing by with my rib spreader and take care of that damage as a quick note doesn't come in every box but there is instructions and all other recommendations here one of the recommendations is to put down to six mill poly not as a moisture barrier but more to help make it easier in case you ever have to do maintenance so the floral slide we have installed the quarter-inch luan which is a real smooth surface and we aren't gonna see the need for the plastic here so you don't do that if you feel necessary one other question might have is because it's cork can I put this directly on my concrete floor in the basement and the answer is yes you do not need any plastic when you're putting cork okay so just make sure it's not a fresh pour and make sure that it's a solid surface in one of the earlier videos we actually did some floor leveling around where we had cut the concrete open and so that was necessary because you want to have a nice flat surface for this to go on you don't want this going up and down because then it makes it really difficult for the locking system to engage there you go folks this is how you install a vinyl floor lay it down click tap repeat' hundreds and hundreds of times and by all means if you need one of these cutters go to the local building store they will rent it for you it's a big investment but if you're just doing one or two floors on your house then just go rent the tool thirty or forty bucks you can do most of the house in one day is definitely worth the investment it keeps the desk down it keeps your run running back and forth to the saw and it'll keep you from slicing your hand open using that knife because that was ridiculous well thanks again for watching us if you like the channel subscribe if you have not subscribed yet and if you want to ask some questions about this product or other installations by all means check the comments section below and leave me a message because we respond to every one of your messages it's one of our things we love to do and we'll see you again next time you [Music] all right so in today's video I'm gonna teach you how to install some kitchen cabinets this particular brand and style is going to save you a ton of time and a ton of money so stay tuned for all the tips and tricks so we're here today we're gonna install a galley style kitchen on one side we're gonna use the nimble kitchen product this is kind of cool these a local building store that carries this product it's hard to find sometimes a good quality cabinet that's in stock and that's priced right but this fits the bill it also comes with self leveling feet it has a upper rail system very similar to the IKEA cabinets for hanging on a wall for all the upper cabinets so we're not going to handle that today because in here we're going minimalist we're gonna go with floating shelves but if you know how to install a base cabinet and I'll tell you the information you can install any cabinet in the house so to get started we got to unpack these things so generally speaking we need to cut your straps if you don't have a knife here's a tip for you take your band where the joint is turn it upside down grab the loose part peel it off yeah I know for all those times you had to waste time hunting down a knife you could have just done that all right here we go these particular cabinets they have some limitations as far as the design features so you don't always get exactly what you want but if you're doing rental property or if you're doing a quick flip or you this will have a simple galley kitchen you know sometimes you can sacrifice a little bit and design features and get you safe yourself a lot of money so here's the beat that's good nice don't lose all the hardware ton of packaging again in this particular cabinet check it out the drawers come preassembled you'll notice some similarity here with the IKEA design it looks like somebody basically did to knock off all the power to them because these are actually cheaper than the IKEA cabinets and install in less than half the time because you don't have to build all your drawers it's already got the shelf in there the only thing doesn't come with the bar says the door face and that's because they have options you can buy different door faces my building store carries this nimble cabinet in the white or and it comes in a natural birch look so then from there you could have I think three or four different cabinet door designs and colors to choose from they're very cool we in the box they come with the shopping it put the back of the cabinet it's a tapped of the test for the two-sided tape so when you go to rip it out and gives you a little resistance that's what's going on it's feel free to pull now two-sided tape is generally a real pain in the butt to remove I understand why they do it because you know people don't respect the rules on the box when it has the arrow it says don't we do is ship it this way so this keeps it from getting damaged but the only way to remove this usually is just peel it off the best you can then get a little wd-40 with a rag and you can clean that adhesive off all right so our cabinet here it's a 30 inch cabinet it's exactly 30 plus we have the feet and generally speaking the standard cabinet is a 36 inch so that gives you a 6 inch rise here so a lot of this clip system again is very reminiscent of our early days IKEA so I know we're gonna put all this aside because most likely the toe kick is gonna clip on and then that'll snap into place when we're done no these feet of course are adjustable and they come at their lowest point at just under 4 inches plus an inch and a half counter top that gives you just a bit shorter than your 36 inch counter we're gonna actually keep it as short as we can then we've got some slope to deal with we're gonna keep it as short as we can because our client is also vertically challenged so it'll be good for them they haven't finished off it about thirty four and a half all right so we'll start in this end with the shorter cabinet as we can just because this is the I corner and we want to make it real easy to adjust all the cabinet's height as we go along like any product before you use it for the first time I mean like for me this is the first time using nimble read the instructions person you'd be surprised what you can learn like for instance these feet again they have that little holder this package comes with screws you can actually screw the foot to the cabinet this is a benefit of the IKEA feet don't suffer the purpose of this video we're going to give you a couple of hints and tips and just techniques so that you can install your own kitchens remember in this situation it's a galley so this is just one single line if you have an inside corner everything you do has to start from the corner working out and I would usually suggest checking your level if your upper cabinets and our design that they need to be in line with your base cabinet doors then you really want to make sure that that line is perfect before you move forward so check should start with the corner if you have a corner if you don't what you want to do is start from the center and think left and right so what we have here is 125 inch wall so we're gonna just mark off sixty two and a half there's my centerline right all right so if this is my half and I've already designed this kitchen so it's a little easier at this point I've got 30 and I've got a 15 right yep and they're actual dimensions that gives me 45 and that would take me to here without any fillers okay and then 45 from the other side just to help visualize the space all right so I have a stove going in the middle so the space that I have left right now is thirty five and a quarter okay now I'm gonna add a 5/8 on each side because I get an end Gable and that panel is the full depth it goes right to the floor after the flooring goes in so that's awesome because then I have a nice stop here where my tech comes in too so that'll look really amazing and I got it for another it's over here the same thing on the other side wow that is still way too much room because five eighths and five eighths inch and a quarter I'm still at 34 inches the stove is 30-inch so if I have an end plate and then I have just a little bit of space let's maybe maybe a half an inch okay of extra space that my countertop can extend over that's plenty so we're gonna add an extra half an H on each just so it's easy to navigate the stove let's go down to 33 inches now I got a three inch that I need to fill when I have a three inch that I need to fill I have two options I can extend the gap beside the cabinet but you really don't want to have too much gap between your stove and your cabinet because that's just where junk is gonna fall down and it's gonna look really odd so what you want to do is fill the gap on the outside of the wall and the reason you want this intentionally when you're designing is if you have doors and drawers you want to make sure that there's room in case things aren't square so fillers are pretty standard and they come at 3/4 of an inch yes they do by 3 inch now I need to add three inches to the space so instead of adding a three inch on one side and use nothing on the other we're gonna actually run these through the table saw after the fact so we can scribe it exactly to the angle of the wall if there is one so that it'll all finished perfectly so what we're gonna do is we're going to intentionally measure off the center line over to where we want our first cabinet to start and we'll leave the space until later so I can pull up the same hole saw and stahl my filler throw in a couple of screws couldn't get a perfect look so let's go through this again so my stove is thirty so for my centerline I want to measure over 15 I'm going to add the 5/8 for my filler and I want to add another 1/2 an inch which takes me to 16 an eighth from my end panel so that means my cabinet will come to this point right here okay so we're gonna work that as our start now we're gonna just slide these over and the way you want to do this is actually we want to set our laser line on this wall in two different directions on the start line so that we can install our cabinet not just in the right spot but also level and then at the same height so when we slide our cabinets up to the wall we just reach underneath adjust those back leveling feet to hit that line and it goes so smooth so here's my laser levels from Duvall I love this 130 bucks has the back it swivels it's also magnetic okay so it'll stick on any metal corner bead in the house great because you can adjust your height really simply on the side we want to put a horizontal line and we also want to put the vertical line so what I want to do is I want to move this over until my vertical line hits my spot on my wall and then I want to bring it down until I hit the top of the cabinet on the far left side remember that's the one that's at the highest point so what we're gonna do is we're gonna roughly put that in position we're estimating about an inch and a half off the wall and you notice that it's not touching the wall but we're not sure what's level and what isn't right yet so we'll double check I can slide this down until it hits the back of the cabinet right there and you'll notice that the front of the cabinet is at that height so I know the front of the cabinet has to be raised up we'll adjust this line again for the back of the cabinet right there perfect now all I do is slide my slide my cabinet to my starting line which is here so now that we wanted to find out level you'll see here we are we are approximately from one end of the cabinet to the other but a quarter inch at a level and you'll see on the back wall the outside of this building is actually in quite a bad slope and we don't really Turin CERN ourselves too much with that gap because we're gonna put our full panel on it will become invisible and we're more concerned to making sure that the counters are level and everything is square and flush from there traditionally in the house the outside walls of the house are the high side and as you go into the middle of the house it does sink down a little bit most structures are made of wood and under the weight of that time it get a bit of a sag as is the case here and that's not much it's only 1/8 of an inch over 10 feet but what we did is we raised our laser level line to compensate for that so we need to raise these cabinets now up to hit the laser line you can see I'm about 1/4 inch maybe 3/8 of an inch off from the front and I'm only you know 3/16 on the back so what I got to do is I got to crawl underneath now adjust all of those feet until they're perfect this is easier done if you have somebody to help you who can sit there and say that looks good there okay so now that we've raised up the front so it's touching the line I noticed the back corner is dropped down a little bit don't forget as the cabinet shifts and the front comes up the back will roll down because the feet aren't at the back corner they're a little bit closer to the front so a little bit of a lever action going on here so real quick because of the we're using a laser level we can actually locate our line right at the top of the cabinet on all four corners and the benefit of this is before I screw this together I've actually got a completely level in every direction so I just toss my level down anywhere and you can see right inside that bubble so front to back across the back it's all the same thing I'll talk no matter where I go this cabinet is good to go the benefit is you can finish this with a quartz or granite countertop and when they come to do the install they're going to have to spend a lot of time doing the shipping because you can make this exactly perfect for them so really all we need to do now to finish the installation of the box is to attach them together and attach them to the wall so here's a mistake that a lot of people use they'll renovate a house they're going to get to this part of the kitchen and they're going to use the three inch construction screw they use because they have it in a huge box they've got a couple of thousands of laying around and what could possibly go wrong using a three inch construction screw what happens is is they drill through into a stud and the screw goes so deep it Pierce's a wire or a water line remember in the building code there is a depth that they have electricians and the plumbers have to use when they're putting things through the wall or they have to use a mending plate if your screw is too long and you penetrate a wire or a plumbing line you get to be the one to pay that bill not then nobody's fault but your own if your screws are too low so our material back here you can see we have a 5/8 panel and then a quarter-inch that's 3/4 I also have a space I have half-inch drywall I'm about an inch inch and a quarter okay before I get to my wood after that I can only go in about 3/4 of an inch before I ever start running the risk of hitting something so I use a 2-inch screw not a three inch screw and the way you want to do this so you don't disrupt your level just take a couple of shims drop them down nice and gently right here just a little tap okay because everything compresses when you drill mark your spot and that's it so the other type of hardware you're gonna need is a screw that you can attach your cabinet to the other cabinet with no in most cases your kitchen's gonna be made of particleboard so you need a particle board screw I prefer the ones that have these beautiful flat washers built-in right there this is like a stopgap measure you can also buy a cabinet washer and it's like a big fat washer that you can put a regular screw in but might as well kill two birds with one stone now the way you want to do this is you don't want to find any existing holes and put a screw in there because it'll be in the same in the other cabinet just get a couple inches back make sure you're not going to be anywhere near hardware start off your screw then you can use the clamp where you can just line it up in straight if you screw in an angle you've got to use clamps so I like to use screw it straight and I never need them because everything is already leveled I'm not forcing anything into position down and done now you want to hit the front and the back when you're doing cabinets like this and the reason for that is you don't want to start a situation where if you don't square any of the back they can start curving around the room on you then your drawers aren't going to work properly okay this screw was inch-and-a-quarter and you'll see the tip doesn't come out to the depth of the other cabinet okay so it is safe to have your hand on the other side if you're attaching the end panels so you can buy the same screw in an inch and an eighth that would be recommended because you if like for instance you're finishing the big panel and it's exposed to the room you don't want the tip of the screw to start putting pressure on the outside of that melamine and having a pop up because those bumps are obvious from a mile away okay so now what you want to do is you could if you're using the upper cabinets you really want to make sure that you maintain an eighteen inch space so there's your 18 but we haven't installed their countertops yet so depending on the countertop you're using and it's very important to know that in advance you want to maintain that 18 inch gap it's standard most backsplash tile are designed so that there's an 18 inch space he'll fill that space without cutting across the top so very important here if you cheat and drop it or you go a little too tall you're gonna be either leaving huge gaps or making lots of nasty cuts and right now on the marketplace there's a lot of really nice high gloss or glass tile in the market and that's going to cause you a lot of grief trying to make that look pretty if you don't have it measured off right so we're gonna be going with an inch and a half solid concrete so for me I need to mark off at nineteen and a half if I was adding cabinets and then all I have to do just go back to your laser level slide and up the wall and line up your spot again on that mark on the wall and on your centerline and there you have that's the bottom of the cabinet and that would be the side of the cabinet and then it is that simple with the laser definitely go get yourself one now here's another couple of issues here a little bit of advice okay so you're renovating your kitchen just keep in mind your distances okay so we are gonna use this as a template let's presume that there's a cabinet here alright and let's say you're gonna put a valence on okay now here's your stove and you got your elements and your heat your boiling water the steam is coming up if you're not using solid wood valances and you're using thermofoil which is really popular nowadays it will end up peeling and your kitchen is going to look like it needs to be renovated again within six months so keep that in mind if you're having a stove and you're using thermofoil cabinets it design some extra distance here don't be so concerned with having a cabinet above it as you are with protecting what you're installing I would go back four to six inches before I'd have a cabinet and make sure you put in a fan that has a six inch exhaust duct on it don't cut corners and reduce the fan size or the duct size because you really got to make sure you're pulling all that hot moisture away from your new cabinets almost every product that's made on the market today as a thermofoil if it's not solid wood alright so keep that in mind moisture is your enemy when you're doing something new with upper cabinets and the other thing I would suggest when you're doing your cabinetry keep in mind about your backsplash this is a great time to grab a really long six-foot level make sure your wall is straight if it's not you know open it up and repair it or use drywall compound and fill it all in nothing worse than trying to tile those little tiny glass tiles on an uneven surface because you'll end up getting all the glue and adhesives pulling through the grout lines as you're trying to press it on and that makes a hell of a mess so try to make your backsplash area as smooth and flat as possible that's it for today hope you enjoyed it and if you haven't subscribed to the channel and you're looking for great DIY tips and tricks this is the place hit the button and of course if you are a subscriber you like this kind of content hit the like button we love to know what to bring you for next time we'll see you again you in this video I'm gonna teach you how to install the subway tile as a kitchen backsplash now I know a lot of you think this might be an easy task but I got a lot of tips and tricks that are gonna help make this job flawless and look perfect alright so kitchen backsplash is they're generally the basic home do-it-yourself kind of tile project right and everybody can install 20 square feet of tile or it can you here's the trick this is a 3 by 6 subway tile traditionally subway tile is 50% offset so you get a nice little stagger you generally think that you'd start at the bottom and then you work your way up now for argument's sake here this wall is going to be its minimalist kitchen so it's open-concept it's just gonna be some floating shelves so we're gonna tile right to the ceiling which makes them a project simple but generally the upper cabinets are sitting at 18 inches which is this mark here and they make these tiles so that if you put them on the wall they pretty much finish right a full room okay so there are a lot of tiles out there there if you're gonna buy them double check the size do the math from 18 inches and you'll find that in a lot of those cases they'll go install without any cuts that makes your life simple but what you they aren't gonna tell you is that most kitchens aren't installed level so every countertop section is going to be leveled independently of itself most guys don't install kitchens and throw a laser on the wall and then make sure the whole room is all the same height so if you start in one corner start working away around the room you'll find you'll go behind a stove you get to the other side all of a sudden you'll be doing all these ugly cuts and it's a disaster so what I do is I generally start on a wall like this I'll put one tile on this side one tile on the other side and then I'll throw the laser level on the other corner I make sure that my laser level is always set a little bit higher than the tile that's completely in the picture if the other tile has got a laser line like that that's fine I'm not worried about it because I can always come and do a little bit of grinding off the bottom and fit this row in so that it has the appearance of a full tile because when I'm done don't forget i'm gonna be using a thin line of silicone here so after grout and silicon the I will never pick up if the tile has got a little bit of a grind cut to it but if you try to just install it on the flat surface and assume it's level your tile will start going like this you're gonna get bunched for space you grow it lines will be a disaster and that can be seen from a mile away so the basic tools of this job and when you're dealing with a backsplash you're not and your deal with a small tile you have the advantage you continue as an adhesive now this is a type one adhesive from a PI it's designed for wet areas so I usually buy this in a big bucket because believe it or not I still end up doing some situations where we're tiling showers for people who aren't using waterproofing systems just because the code doesn't require it and some people's budget just don't allow it so I'll buy a big bucket like this and that's wonderful I buy myself a cheap little trowel like this because I find this adhesive especially if you're doing this at home you're gonna do one side of your kitchen the other in a couple of days it doesn't clean off very well with soap and water you have to use a knife to cut the glue off and after two or three tries I generally just throw this in the garbage and go for another one so I got tired of spending 20 or 30 dollars on a good one so I just use these ones there's no available the hardware store I think they're like 4 bucks not a big deal so this adhesive is pre-mixed all right and so you're just gonna scoop it up nope just throw it on the wall and you can see it sticks generally speaking less is more here it's kind of like glue so you really want to trowel exactly lay it on and then run it off okay so that's the basics behind how to get the glue on the other things you're going to need for the tile job of this sort of course measuring tape you don't want a knife so you can open your spacer bag these things here are 1/8 inch rubber spacers depending on your tile this one does not have any ridges on the backside of the tile if it did when you put them together they would have a built-in grid line but it doesn't so it collapses so what I have to do is I have to put a spacer and every one of these tiles to make sure I can grout it later I also want to have a magic marker this is a glossy tile that makes a great mark and because it's glossy it won't be permanent if you try to do this with a pencil here's a pencil doesn't really show up okay you don't want to be sitting here fussing around with the tile all day long you want to just make your mark and go all right so get these markers I think I think these Milwaukee sharpies are available pretty much everywhere nowadays the next thing you need is your trusty little tile cutter make sure that the cutting wheel on there is in good condition if it's not check the handle in a lot of cases there's another cutting wheel laying in there it's a gift from the tile store a lot of people don't know that there's another wheel you just change the then not here right at the bottom and boom you got a brand new tile cutter so that's available if you need it and you need a drill with a Philips pit because all of your wall plugs have to be removed now if this kind of thing makes you nervous working with live power then by all means there's a kitchen plug let's just go down to the panel this should be labeled and just turn all the breakers off okay and in this job since this is new construction I actually already asked my electrician to change out the screws and put in nice and long ones for me so that when I'm done I can install this over the tile and still connect to the box and so he was happy to help me out with that okay so when you get started on a tile job like this you have two options you can start in the middle and work left and right for me that's maddening when I'm working with adhesive because then you're always having to clean it off and your work surface starts to get bigger and bigger and bigger and the glue is drying as it sits there so you're over here tiling on the third row and you got to go over there and then do the four fifth to sixth seventh eighth ninth and then start over here at the bottom again to drive you insane so what I try to do is start up the side advantage a new build is I built it so the walls level so that means before I get started since I'm doing a 50% offset I can just measure and Mark my tiles this isn't actual 5 and 7/8 lovely so that's 2 in 9 60s I know my tile cutter so I'm gonna put a mark here and that'll be my half a tile and I'll just confirm that I got that right scratch break that's pretty darn close alright so we'll just line that up again this time break there we go all right now I'm gonna have 20 some-odd rose so and these tools work really quite easy um if you're starting out and you haven't done much of this before push it up against a wall all right that'll give you a little bit of and you're not looking for a lot of pressure here just a quick scratch it's called a scratch - will not a cutting tool you really want to just touch the wheel on the edge roll it up over and then push it along and the wheel doesn't really roll as much as it scratches through the glaze so when you add the pressure the breaks nice and clean relatively speaking alright get started I'm gonna keep us out of trouble for a little while with this out of our way so max just asked me why do they call it subway tile and I was like well it's because of those old subway stations that's how they cover all their walls you remember the subway stations they used to be a hand-dug nut machine dug so the walls weren't all straight and then they didn't have steel supports everything was curved and so these tiles are designed to take on all kinds of different movement because they're so small you can wrap them around and bends and all kinds of great stuff well that's why they use these just for their practicality in there so I made my mark there for my laser line and I've just thrown a couple screws and some metal transition here it's just a straight edge and I'm just gonna build on this generally the glue holds everything just fine but because I'm using spacers and I'm going to the way I'm gonna do this I'm gonna put a bunch on the wall and then add some spacers and then push it all back together again okay so there will be some pressure on the bottom row so I just put that there to keep everything from sliding around no really I find it easier to put the glue on from the bottom same as when I'm grouting a wall in a bathroom okay and then you can take the time pull it across following all your voids fill them in and then very similar to drywall just put a bit of a turn on your trowel and it keeps it all from running out the back side you won't have big globs of it laying everywhere hey that's a lot and then we're gonna just kind of anticipate our spaces for now there's no back butter on this because it's a subway tile and in an adhesive and that v-notch gives me perfect adhesion I'm gonna do it's just kind of guessed for my spaces to start with if you do one tile at a time and then add your grout spacers over it will drive you insane and it'll take forever I'd like to just do this get a few rows on start it up the tile and push up so you're always cleaning the glue out of the way go tight and then go up to the side okay try to keep yourself clean as they go if you're clean your job will be clean if you start getting covered in D so just take a minute and get rid of it I'll be everywhere and then you'll spend all kinds of time trying to clean your table okay it's about as far as I want to go these spacers are rubber which makes them very easy to work with easy to pull out which is an important aspect to this too easy to pull out sometimes [Music] with a small little wall tile if you're using rigid plastic spacers you can't grab them with a pair of pliers and yank them out sometimes they get stuck right in there with the compression you can see what I mean just having a bunch in your hand and then running along to all these different joints move this process along open it close it okay and you won't of course put one at the end of each piece of tile and this seems a little bit monotonous the reality is it gets a great look right this is visual effect having as much texture very common way to finish a wall like this nowadays is actually to use a contrasting grout color so this client has got new gray flooring concrete countertops so we're going to be finishing this job using a really light gray on the grout so they'll be a contrast which is why these spacers are so necessary if I was just going on the white grout they might be able to just cheap I got enough experience with this sort of thing I could probably just put all these tiles on the wall stand back I line them all the way I want and not even use the spacers grout it the next day and no one will never be any wiser but if you're using a contrasting grout color no no you got to deal with the level of precision that just you need to use your spacers there's no way you can cheat so we've got our tile up to the point now where I'm dealing with the electrical plug no I'm not gonna go any higher than this for now I want to try to finish this this size of a spread all the way across the wall and then we'll come back and start the roll over again that way I'm always working where the adhesive is wet and I don't have it at drying out on me so the way you do this is really simple you just put this bad boy back in the box and you put this tile on your edge now if the hole where the screw in this plate is above the this ceramic then you're fine and that's what we are we are fine now you don't want to get in here with the trowel messing around just put the adhesive right onto the tile okay make sure you've got good coverage here because there's gonna be compression with the electrical slide it in behind then push it to the wall all right that way you're not going to accidentally Park and blow something up including your finger when it comes time for a cuts around the flood line your tile up with the hole in the wall not on the plug itself you want to maintain the gap on the box okay and then mark your grout line so that you keep that consistent all right I might take a little practice for you to know where exactly that blade is gonna cut I actually put a little black mark on my cutter so I have an idea so I was laying it up like that perfect okay and again we'll just step all this back up here keep working in the use of while it's still wet this type one adhesive generally has a setting time of about ten minutes so if you can't get it done in 10 minutes scrape it off put it back in the bucket that way at least it's staying with the rest of the moisture and won't dry out and on its own okay no we're here I don't want to be putting all the adhesive on every tile as I go I'm gonna make sure it's nice and clean between the between the stone okay keep that there for when we're ready no secret here is maintaining your line what you have to do is measure two and 1560s there we are that makes more sense put it on the wall and put it right on the grout line okay that is your space end the discussion get that on I know what you want to do have yourself a cover plate handy put it on your plug and put that back in position and see if it covers again if it does you're gonna be fine if it doesn't you'll have to add a sliver I found that generally speaking any gap between the tile in the box that's a quarter-inch you're fine three-eighths run into an area where you might want to buy a different size plate you can actually buy the medium or the large size the King plates if you do buy one for every every electrical plug in your kitchen or it'll look funny now we check this one we're definitely gonna have to glance so here's what we do we want to hover knowing that this area here all right that's all I have to take out now I have options for this if you're good with the tile scissors you can use your nips you can nip that out because this is a ceramic it's easy work with or if you like me you always keep your grinder handy so basically [Music] when the grinder wheel stops moving then you can let go you learn that one the hard way all right there we go boom tayo huh feel like Gordon Ramsay so here we go wherever you can get a space rent at the end of each tile alright especially around your plug cuts it's a lot of times when there's a problem with the your tile later on it's because somebody got this area wrong once we get all these spacers in we're gonna just back up and bend over and have a good visual look make sure that it all makes sense just gotta move quick here because my stuff is drying on the wall subway tile always makes me think about the first time I ever tile the bathroom it was my own house and I was young married had two little babies and I was living in a rental and the place was a dive I was broke working in an Italian kitchen trying to be an apprentice chef till of course one day I found out that they work every night every weekend every holiday and they don't get Hurley any money so I changed careers anyway I was working in this Italian kitchen and figures the Italian chef was also a tile set and so he gave me a crash course well in the kitchen one day and let me borrow a couple of his tools and I did my first subway tile job all by myself off of a conversation I had with a guy in the kitchen no YouTube back in those days and it wasn't bad wasn't bad it'd have been a lot better and here we go that's pretty much all the information you need for doing a backsplash one quick note the reason I use garbage bags to cover my countertops is because most tarps that you buy are at least four feet wide and I don't like to have a bunch of them on the countertop and there's too much weight they're always falling off this is quick and simple you can get glue all over it and at the end of the day just roll it up and all the garbage is gone and there's nothing to clean so this is why I use garbage bags other than that this process we're gonna go right to the ceiling so it's just over and over and over again so just remember get a straight edge to keep it laser level straight and then you can build and not gonna have any issues so this is a perfect DIY project subway tile it's clean simple lots of cool designs out there so check your building stores you can get them with different details on the edges and kind of like a golf ball scalloped look there's a lot of cool little things so lots of options you can also go with the soldier row and then do angles herringbone these are easy to work with okay same applications lots of glue use the spacers and you can do anything you can dream up so if you like this kind of video hey subscribe don't forget to hit the blue button down there like the video for real these kinds of things are real important to us so we know what to bring it and if you have problems navigating all these videos on our youtube channel then you can always check out our website there's a link in the description below we put together a platform so that you can find exactly what you're looking for related topics and all that sort of thing so if we're as information that we didn't get for you in this video that you need above tiling we'll have a series on tiling and then if there's other aspects of the job you need information on it's all there otherwise remember the most expensive part of any home renovation is the labor to get it done so if you can do it yourself go out there and make yourself lots of money you well today is countertop day and in the next video we're going to show you how to install brand new concrete countertops that's right we're not doing it from mica when I'm doing granite we're not doing course today we're doing concrete and we're doing a mold that pour it in place I've never done this before so we're both going to learn together [Music] so recently in the building industry we have come across this brand new concept of doing concrete countertops in the kitchen so I've seen it in tables in the living room I've seen it another aspect but to do one in the kitchen it's a little bit trickier because you have to keep them dead level they've got to be sealed with food grade quality and it's been a little bit of a trick to find a supplier that one has the right concrete product and then to has the right sealer and so we've been holding off a little bit until everybody's done all their experiments and someone's actually come up with a proven formula and so now we've got this awesome product on the market we have a combination of company that makes great forms and a company makes a good concrete and a great sealer and so now that we have all of these elements together we're comfortable doing a mold to make the countertops in place up until now we've generally you've seen the videos you had to get the melamine and you had to make your own forms and you'd make all the countertops upside down you have to flip them over and wets and blah blah blah credible amount of work now that also comes with a lot of flexibility but if what you're looking for is a simple concrete then this is the way to do it this is Zita it's a company that I found online okay it's just a forward and the idea is you would attach this to the edge of your concrete substructure and then after you're done with your cement fiber board you fill it up and when it's dry you can break this it has a weak spot in the form right here on the bottom corner and so this plastic mold edge actually tears off afterwards and you're left of the beautiful contoured concrete design so before we can get to installing that let's talk substructure because if we're gonna be pouring concrete you want to have something that's we're going to be strong enough first of all to carry all the weight it's about 80 pounds of square foot weight you're going to be transferring so if you're having a large cabinet base you might find it necessary to actually put some plywood down first and then laminate your concrete board to that now this is a Hardiebacker cement fiber board it's brilliant it's half an inch thick very rigid and with Eric tablet design it'll be strong enough so for me the first step is to make sure that this is as tight to the wall as I can possibly make it so I actually have to scribe this in remember nothing's ever perfectly straight or square especially when you've got tape joints and outside corner beads involved so what you want to do is you want to lay this up into the corner so in this counter top kit we have a front mold and then we have a back mold and this goes on the back and it'll get screwed down and it'll close up any gaps inconsistent back there and then when I do my tile backsplash the little thin black edge back here will disappear and you'll never see it so this just goes right in and so the back of this walls gonna be nice and sealed but the side is gonna be a problem we have a choice if I put this on the side I can cut that as well but then I also have to tile that wall and in our design in this house we don't have any tile on that side of the wall so what I have to do is scribe it no scribing can be simple and lots of material here so I just hold my marker like this and I just set my finger against the wall and I just pull it forward whatever the contour that wall is now let's translate it onto my cement board so now I can go outside and cut it and slide it right up against the wall nice and tight and then we'll take care of finishing up all of our other measurements so we can cut this exactly where we need it [Music] let's check our scribe there we go oh nice and tight perfect so next thing we have to do take a black marker I use black marker because sometimes I find pencil on cement board a you're running a pencil drive real quick and B sometimes it's not as easy to see especially if you're outside in the sunlight cutting your marker along the lead edge here oh I don't just mark your countertop goes and over here now that you've got scribed same with the other side okay so I'm just gonna flip this over now take my straight edge I'm just gonna finish connecting all my dots [Music] now in our kitchen design we're gonna have our stove here my stove I need a 30 inch hole traditionally they're 29 and 7/8 wide and so since we use our laser level to line up our lines vertical and horizontal here both of these cabinets are level and in the right position and the gap in the back and the gap in the front is exactly the same now this particular kitchen that we're using has n Gables that go in after the floor which arrives tomorrow so we have to add the gap for that and then make sure that we've installed these cabinets so that we have a perfect 30 inch hole so I have a 3/4 inch gap on the other side of this cabinet I'm going to add that over here and that leaves me exactly 30 and 1/8 nothing wrong with having an eight I'm gonna measure up another 3/4 of an inch and then I'm gonna cut so there and because it's really difficult to measure using the end of a tape I'll put it on the two inch mark and then measure over the end of my three quarter now take my strategy [Music] there's my new cut line okay now we go inside this slide this in perfect now for some of you who've already one step ahead of your own wondering what about the overhang of your counter you need something to cover the drawer plus a little bit that's where the mold comes in it's actually inch and a half so when it goes on it extends the counter a nice 3/4 of an inch past the drawer [Music] okay so now we got our pieces all cut we've got our countertop cut and fit flush to the front and this track here once it's installed provides us the overhang that'll cover our doors and drawers and so that's perfect and the one in the back will cover up all the gaps of course we scribed right to the wall and we have our overhang that we've got designed for us to our stove maybe before we go any further double-check you know that is perfect that's the thirty sixteenth so now we're back we've got everything cut and ready to go we've got our cement fiber board back cut perfectly we've checked our measurement for our stove and used our square everything is gonna be perfect there so now it's just a matter of attaching these to our cement board and attach the cement board to the cabinet's all at the same time we're using the cement board screw okay these things are out of the one inch in the corner and we're just gonna drill right through it puts up a little bit of a fight but you'll get used to it and you can see that we're we're actually screwing a mold to the fiber board and then into the cabinet and the screw doesn't actually come out the other side this all works really perfectly well yeah I mean if you do end up going out and buy a cement square this longer than inch and a quarter I don't know if they even exist on the market but if you do you run the risk poking out the other side when you're reaching into your counter into the drawer from Princeton's you gonna run the back of hand off of a screw that would be really unpleasant don't fall into the trap and buy yourself quarter-inch cement board it's not gonna be strong enough and it's not the right thickness this mold situation with cabinets if you got something thinner you'd have to block up the countertop first and create an additional layer of strength that's a whole lot of work that's not worth your time and energy by the half-inch and then this all works for right away so what I've done is I've just put together a quick box frame and I've screwed this together on an angle so that after the cement is cured I can remove the screws pop out the blocking and remove the wood really easy without risk chipping anything up and what I'm trying to do here it's create an end form that goes against the stove area that close up the whole contour of this front nosey but from the perspective of where the stove goes in I just wanted this stop I don't want to have to user gonna need this contoured stuff it just seems like a whole lot of extra work and a whole lot of extra material that you have to buy what I'm trying to do now set this up everything is nice and level across the back [Music] Merson advancement [Music] okay so taking this box that I've built put my screws on the end just a quick little frame to hold the concrete from going over the edge and create a nice straight edge up against the stove marked in advance for my frame is in the wall and then placing my frame higher than it needs to be because this is not a straight edge because it's a two-by-four if I try to go flush I'm gonna end up with an extra bit of contour I'm gonna have to sand back under afterwards anyway and I don't want that so now I'm just gonna take these here a couple of temporary supports and I'm gonna screw all this together make sure that I get as close top and bottom [Music] cool yeah we're ready for sums me [Music] [Applause] [Music] I always make sure you vacuum out specially along your forms this is the product we're using from quickly it's a countertop mix and you can see in the picture you just pour it out of a pail in the diagram on this bag actually they've got a little metal mesh or something there that's not necessary if you go with the cement fiber board instead they'll bond together just fine and the trick to that is gonna be before I put the cement in we're gonna take our sponge and we're gonna wet the fiber board that'll get a nice bond like with any product before you mix it read the instructions this is an 80 pound bag which is a little bigger than usual so just want to double-check it should have the exact measurements on here blah-blah-blah-blah mixing instructions here we go somewhere between three point eight and four point liters of water per whole bag there usually is a chart on the bag as well it tells it how many bags you need for a certain amount of square footage so this chart is a little ridiculous because it's very vague but I've got lots so we'll just get started all right so these eighty pound bags require a pretty sizable container to mix in but if you've read the instructions that said between 3.7 and 4.2 liters of water that's a give or take folks we're looking for the right kind of flow ability here generally speaking if you do a half a bag at a time you're gonna get about the same kind of consistency so just want to mix this a little bit wetter than you need to we'll get the half a bag in there we're just using a regular cement mixing paddle and of course my trusty drill that's how the living tar beat out of it with a keeps on going [Music] we only have about a 30 minute working time we don't want to spend too much time fooling around [Music] zero ability on that again when you're adding water and mixing concrete it's a lot like what's a lot like pancake batter you put it a little bit everything goes real soft so be careful don't go crazy [Music] good tip to get rid of your lumps your blade is spinning clockwise move your blade counterclockwise and you'll catch everything in the act [Music] that looks like it's blowing pretty good there we go before we begin quick wit with the center the sponge this particular product sets up pretty quick when they mentioned 30 minutes on the bag they weren't kidding so what you want to do is layer it in okay use your cement trowel lay your this you kind of get a feeling for how much something you're gonna need to finish the job just by working with this looks like this area here it's eight square feet looks like it's going to need but one and a half bags so when you're working then layer in your concrete it's probably best to do a little bit of vibrating get some of the air pockets out before you do a little final coat that way you don't have too much air trying to escape into your final coat when you put your last layer on and you can use a vibration tool like a square edge sander like I've seen on other videos who rubber mallet but because I'm working with concrete board just finishing hammer this is actually my little stiletto tool that's fine just get underneath now when you're mixing this just like the constant battle of mixing it easy flow ability versus how much air you're gonna have to contend with okay so this is the ultimate question the more water you mix with the more air you've got a contaminant use lots of water and if you like you're gonna have to do a lot of vibration this stuff is self-leveling so does a lot of the work for you beautiful thing about this self leveling you get near the top all you gotta do is make sure it doesn't overflow the bank I have prepared my thirty inch level clean the bottom and sanded it so I can screech this Ohio too much I know how much to take [Music] so once again now we've got it all screed 'add want to head around vibrate for some air pockets and try to get this nice and smooth well that's pretty much it for the messy part I'm just gonna hang around here from another half an hour or so and continue do a little bit more vibration while this sets up next step is going to be I let it sit overnight and come back at it tomorrow so we'll see you then all right well it has been about three days since we poured this part of the top and you can tell us nice and light gray now it's gonna be really gorgeous remember how I talked about this edging here how it just snaps off let's see if we can get it there you go when that exposes your concrete now look at that that is beautiful now this edging here this might be really sharp so I'd be careful we're gonna want to sand this back before we get too far ahead of ourselves but there we go you can see there's some pitting no matter how much for that tapping you do you're always gonna have air holes pop up so we're gonna show you a little bit later in the video about the the process for grinding then sanding this down basically it's really simple we take a cup grinder it's a diamond blade that goes on your grinding wheel and you just run it over the surface it takes down all these thick ridges and all the air bubble pump bumps and then we'll make up a slurry which is just a wet mix of the same concrete I don't want to be changing the color and then we're gonna just use our hands to force all that back into the holes and when that's tribe we can come back with a light sanding just a palm sander and then we're ready to seal but over the last three days we've had our island installed these cabinets came and that is brilliant so while I was waiting for max today I did the template for the countertop and now we have all of our cement fiber board cut this is actually two and a little bit sheets again this is just to contain all of the cement and we have this beautiful sink by blanco here and this one comes with this cutout now here's the here's where you got to get creative this cutout is designed for cutting a hole in a countertop that'll sit up to this edge here okay up to this edge so this is an undermount sink so this is gonna be exposing a little bit of that round edge this is a little too small for our application because what I need to do is I need to cut a hole in this counter that's this size plus the thickness of the wall of that material so what I did is I use this originally and then I just added an extra eighth all the way around and you can tell that's a perfect fit okay no because this cabinet is 36 and the sink is 33 the cabinet walls the gable ends are within an inch or so of the end of this sink so most of this weights gonna be transferred from the sink right into the gable ends of the cabinet which is perfectly ideal however because people have always had this propensity to put a lot of weight right here on this area what I want to do is a little something special for this particular counter to add some extra strength we also have a dishwasher here and that's a huge span with nothing in there for support and then another cabinet and so there's a lot of different moving parts here so what we're gonna do is we're going to add some rebar now when you buy your quikrete countertop cement on the picture it shows some metal bars for structural support and that would hold true if you were using a really soft underlay but with the cement board you don't need that but in this case we're not gonna take a chance you can see here we've extended our countertop the past traditional depth this is a bit of an overhang so that people can have a few seats here and so what we want to do is frame this up with rebar to maximize the strength so we don't run the risk of having any accidents so having that in mind I've got a four foot countertop section I'm adding in some 4-foot rebar and this is gonna go right on the gable end of that cabinet this is my three foot I'm gonna put one across the sink front and back okay and I'm just really laying that in there where the cabinet is nothing too special about that and then a bunch of two footers and we're gonna just go across them like this and have them extend over the eating area I'm gonna have it come out into the dishwasher so the dishwasher is here and here that'll give a whole area some nice strength can we put another one over here there we go okay I think I'm gonna do another one here because I've got a cut joint and I want to kind of seam that together like a stitch and then one more here just to give some strength the middle of that cabinet we'll save the rest of these bars we're gonna add some over there in that window area so for now this is good I'm excited about this I think it's gonna work out great now for those of you might be a little bit familiar with these custom form countertops this comes in an 8 foot piece and this is designed for the sink and what it does is it actually has an adhesive strip okay and you're supposed to put this up against your sink to the height of your molds and so then when you pour your concrete you know you have a nice finished edge well we're gonna show you that on the camera real quick we're not gonna these aren't the actual moles here this is just for demonstration purposes all right so to save you guys time at home today so you don't have to watch another two hours of video we're gonna just do it a quick demonstration to show you how this all works it probably would be fine with a three-foot level here but you get the idea alright so now that you have your molds in place you can take this adhesive strip lift it up to your level and then attached it to your wall all right and you would just run that around and make sure it's exactly where you want it then you're finished countertop is gonna be all nice and level and it just gonna look like a million dollars now when I've bopped this mold I bought the half mold kit which is just enough for my job I thought I had bought the little is it it's basically like a little stem a rubber stem that comes to the hole that you drill for your faucet I thought I bought it I guess I didn't anyway so when I was at the hardware store picking up the rebar I saw this in the concrete section I think it's just a little cap to put on the end of a bar I'm gonna actually drill a hole and I'm gonna stick this up through the hole from underneath and wedge in a piece of 2x4 and that'll hold that in place and that'll guarantee I have a nice hole there for putting my faucet in great little trick this was like three bucks just in case she gets stuck like I did all right so that covers pretty much every technique you're gonna need will show the cupping and grinding a little bit later on in the video and quick little shout-out to the Lowe's because these folks save my bacon today I went to my traditional supplier to get my concrete countertop mix and they were out so I had to call around did a quick search on the web sure enough these guys got that stuff in stock by the skids so if you're looking to do a concrete countertop job one-stop shop and hit the Lowe's get your cement get your rebar and this stuff here is epoxy coated all right make sure you get that don't just get the other one or it'll start rusting and those Kyl the colors lined up coming through your concrete all right so I'm gonna get back to work and finish pouring on my concrete max we back in both three days and give this lots of time to dry and we'll pull off all of the edges and then we'll show you how to do the cupping and the slurry and the sanding [Music] all right so it has been a couple of days since we've put all of our countertops down you can see in the back we started tiling if you haven't seen that video check it out all right this stuff here is interesting we're using the countertop mix from quikrete available your local building store I believe it's of Lowe's that carries this product so if you're looking at a Home Depot I think you're gonna be disappointed because they don't carry the quikrete line anyway we had an issue because after all of this was done we found that this one area here had a bit of a sag to it it just didn't feel the same the the product sets so fast that you really gotta you gotta be on your a-game it's probably best to have two people doing this one mixing and one working okay if you do it all by yourself you got to go in layers and in this particular case we didn't get the layer filled just the way we wanted to and there was so much detail and and work trying to control the cement around the sink we found that the product that we were using for the form for the sink just wasn't up to the task since such a square edge so it was a little disappointing there that was kind of frustrating and now I've got some repair work to do and I've already done a little bit of it I had some fill up in here and I had a big air bubble over here I had to fill so what I've used is I just went and grabbed some of this fast concrete repair okay no I tried to repair this using the same concrete countertop mix but you can see I've done some grinding and sanding here and you'll see that there are little aggregates in this mix okay that make it impossible to do a fill coat it was just way too thick it's it's it's not something you can travel and work with it's designed to flow and fill and that's it so I was against my better judgement to mix products because I wasn't sure how that was gonna finish with the sealer but I have no choice I can't leave this huge gap so we're gonna use the fast-setting concrete here and hopefully it's not going to show too bad but I don't have a choice so like I said this sets up in just a couple of minutes you want to be really careful when you're mixing this not to put in too much water okay and at the same time don't be so careful that it takes you forever to get this mix made because it'll finish setting up before you're done mixing it so work in small amounts there we go we're getting a bit more of a soup now okay so if you put too much water in your mix that's fine just be patient you want to have the area where you're gonna be patching nice and wet okay really sponge this down so it bonds well okay you can see the overall finish there it's gonna be not too bad I am gonna try to clean up that edge with this person mint as well it's just gonna take a lot of tedious work you know this is gonna be like self leveling and out of control okay so I want to work it to the edge at the same time give it some resistance here so that is setting up that quick here okay you see starting this is setting up here there no I got the opportunity now I can travel this in [Music] that's almost perfect right now just clean there you go this kind of attention to detail is what's gonna make or break this countertop job so I can't afford to be lazy okay so it takes a lot of this handing work out so we're just gonna whisk what sponge this in a little bit now we got it filled we're gonna stop while we're ahead yeah I would rather do this three or four times until it's perfect then give a bad product to something I'm just not happy with so there we go beautiful I'm gonna love that this goes in the garbage this is still running enough I can use it I've done the ones behind me and I've done the island so far but I've saved the one in the window so that we can get this on film can't have max in the room film in this when we're actually sanding but we can I have them film through the glass so what we're gonna do let's talk about tools first this is called a cup grinding wheel okay it's basically a diamond-tipped wheel and it goes right on your grinder they come in different sizes depending on your grinder size and they just spin on once you get it where you want it so you just hold down get that on there nice and tight after we've cut grinded we're gonna be using a regular orbital sander this one has a dust collector and a filter which is helpful if you have to empty this frequently okay so keep that in mind and then we're using 40 grit sandpaper to start we'll work our way down to 80 120 and then 220 to finish of course the secret when you're putting these on line up the holes so that the vacuum part of this sander actually will work then that to be perfect just close so that the actual vacuum can suck the dust away and of course like I always use on my videos safety glasses and a mask god help us if you are not wearing safety glasses and a mask for this then you are crazy this is one of these jobs where you need to have protection this is gonna be messy I'm gonna be using this water bottle just to wet it down a little bit but I don't want to do this soaking wet I'm inside the house and everything within 20-30 feet is going to be covered in wet blotches of cement if I don't do a dry grind so what I can do is I can control the dust so we set up a big plastic wall to separate this room from the rest of the house and we also have our high power fan with our ductwork and I was blowing out all kinds of air out of this area and that creates a negative air pressure so most of the dust that's gonna be collected here will be evacuated out of that room within about two to three minutes that means I've got about a five to six minute working time and then I gotta take a break and let all the dust get out of here so it's a messy job this is a really good mask it's got a dent in the middle piece that goes around the nose so you get a good snug fit now we're off to the races so here here we got our negative air set up this particular countertop we mixed a little bit thicker than the last one so it has the benefit of not having a lot of air bubbles but it didn't flow as well so it's gonna have a lot more grinding so whatever you lose by making it thin as far as making it settle easy you get it to fix all the pinholes and in this situation if you make it nice and thick so you don't get all the air bubbles then you got to grind the hell out of it Gege that whenever one of the reasons I love myrrh wearing masks we want to clean up our edges and any of these bumps we don't want to have to sand the ridge edge so we grind it out you'll be surprised how fast this works and how fast it gets dirty here we go [Music] [Music] here we go now the goal here is just take all their edges up so that we can sand it mission accomplished we left the clear clean up a little bit I'll vacuum this off and then we'll get on with the sand each level of grit that you use and should move back and forth in opposite directions so at the forty I'm going to go opposite of the grinder and then with the ATO go opposite of the 40 and so on this helps to guarantee you're not leaving a big group somewhere in the ground here [Music] [Music] now you'll notice the kind of look that I'm going for here is very rustic I am NOT trying to sand this down like it's wood I'm not trying to make sure that there are no imperfections I kind of want the imperfections [Music] we just don't want to leave any sand armor [Music] just a couple passes with these type of paper and doesn't jump all right now [Music] here we go I'm just gonna wet down the top of the counter now so you can see that little bit of effort I mean how smooth that is now compared to the section here that we never did I don't know if the camera picks that up no okay this is really rough and this is really smooth gives me a chance to have a look and see what its gonna look like when it's sealed if I'm not happy with something back to the drawing board I can make a mark and go back and start cutting and grinding and sanding all over again if necessary but just make sure you're gonna be happier your finished product before you seal it I got a couple of low spots here that I want to actually go back to the 40 on in Sando there you go slow and steady wins the race well there we go that's real dusty inside so we're coming out here to sign off if you're interested to see how that looks when it's all finished and sealed then just wait a few weeks we're gonna have the project video come out and all of the details in the ceiling and what that looks like done will be in there there'll be a link at the end of this video I'm sure it's the project video right max we usually do that fantastic and once again of course hit the like button and if you haven't subscribed to our channel you should because the world is watching this channel I don't know why they want to watch this channel but they are and you don't want to miss out so hit the button to subscribe we'll see you again next time so the choice that we're using for sealing our countertop is most Evo's choice gold this is a penetrating sealer so if you're looking up with your all the information online about concrete countertops you'll see there's a lot of different options with sealing I like this one because this is food grade all right so that means that it means what it means it's safe no one's gonna get sick in this kitchen so basically your job is just apply it and then remove it that's how simple this is so just pour on a little bit use your sponge and just wipe it in okay and that's it and then just remove any excess right away just by wiping across the surface that's how you seal concrete countertops if your sealer if you don't like the way it looks or the way it feels you want to add another coat you can but with penetrating sealer generally to coast is all you're gonna do don't fall like into those some videos I've seen a line to do ten coats of sealer that's a different kind of sealer it's not a penetrating sealer and that product they're trying to get their finished result what we're using for a finished result is just wax all right this is just a beeswax is for finishing concrete countertops and we're just gonna dolly some out here on the counter all right I'll show you now I like to use a grit flute when I'm installing it get it nice and tight on there and get that white tone means you've got more than enough there okay and then just roll it off [Music] there you go now your beeswax is on there just make sure you don't have any residues run a dry cloth over it you see any white spots like that just buff it in a little bit here we go beeswax apply now your sealed your finish is protected you don't have to worry about coffee and red wine and all that sort of thing this will take care of your countertop who protect it for years to come now the sealer itself is good for about 15 the beeswax is something you might want to apply every six months to a year depending on the kind of you should get so a jar like this runs about twenty bucks I'm gonna leave one behind for the client and that's about all you need to know all right so thanks for doing that Center to how to make countertops remember you're upfront cost for materials isn't all that dramatic but this is a blood sweat and tears kind of process but if you love this kind of real earthy industrial look this is a great alternative to natural stone remember if you haven't subscribe to our channel we're full of crazy ideas on how to do things yourself and help you around your house so hit the subscribe button below and like the video if you liked it I'd love to hear from you in the comments see you next time guys [Music] today's video we're going to show you how to install some floating wooden shelves on finished tile how hot is that so today in the building world there's a craze going on with using big slab lumber this is a two and a quarter and you can go to the building stores and you'll see there's a display they've got this thick lumber and they've got some live edge on it and they're selling table legs and the idea is you can glue and screw these things together to make a great big table with a nice live edge all the way around and they come pre-drilled with some pocket screws can you see those okay nice fabulous now I had a crazy idea I wanted to mount some floating shelves on this wall and I didn't want to do the traditional you know Dowling and that sort of thing because it's very very difficult to be precise with Dowling and I thought wow what a great idea what if we just drill the hole and use these new structural screws now these bad boys here are I think they're the headlock program timber lock yeah these black screws here timber lock screws and they're actually been engineered and designed to be the same strength as a 3/8 galvanized bolt well that's really strong we was that for structural lumber when we're building decks so if I can get a couple of these into this right into the framework of the wall I'm confident that this is gonna hold the shelf up because let's be honest here when you're installing kitchen cabinets you're gonna get four little screws that are holding up the way to all that cabinet and all your dishes so all the decorative shelf like this needs maybe maybe a hundred or 200 pounds these bad boys are rated for a thousand pounds each so if you have a climber in your family and then you can be confident they're not going to fall off with the Shelf the funny thing is here max came into the room and he goes oh you have a blueprint and a great joke by the way but what I did is I just taped out just visually so I could see what the finished hood fan and shelves would look like and I've just kind of scaled things back until I liked it aesthetically this tape is based on the laser level line that we put on there so we're gonna have a couple of different dimensions and this gives me the ability to mark my studs on the tape put down my numbers and keep all of my math on that wall without affecting the tile so the basic tools that we need for this job is like you can expect we need the timber lock screws we're of course gonna need some plastic wood I like using this stuff because it dries quick and I can get onto my sanding right away you need a black marker of course they sell these at the building store by Milwaukee and you're gonna need one of these now this isn't necessarily available in your building stores you might have to do a little hunting go to a tile supply store most of these places sell stuff like this this bit is actually $85 as top-of-the-line there are other options available in the 30 dollar range and if your tile is ceramic it'll do just fine I bought this one because I use this for going through ceramic and porcelain when I'm doing my shower fixtures of course we're gonna need a drill impact driver to put in the screws and for this bit just a regular VSR drill and I'll take it off hammer function so I don't drive everybody crazy now I've already checked before I built the wall and affect the cover plate off and the framing for this wall is right beside on the right side of this plate and I know that my Center mark is actually just to the right of the plate cover which is right here so I can use that as my mark knowing that is where my framing is and then I can measure off my 16 s for the frame on this wall because that is the way we frame walls in North America every 16 inches all right and use a black marker on the tape to mark the center of the stud and then I'm going to mark from the wall to the line and I'm gonna put my measurements on here so I got a seven and of course plus sixteen at 23 from there I've taken my slab with the pre-drilled holes and I've already cut this one down what I did is I just marked the center line here and I measured back seven inches made a mark and cut the slab and there's my 23 and there's my finish mark I want to come to 39 just right here like the tape shows so now that I've got it all laid out and I can put it up here and confirm that I'm lined up I like that I've got to drill holes now let's just take a quick look at what it looks like when this comes through the other side of the wood so we have an idea where the pocket screw is going to come in right smack dab in the middle that is awesome so because you want a clean line when you're finished which is why I tiled the first I actually want my bottom edge of the wood to just be touching the top of this tile okay so let's translate that information two inch piece of wood from the bottom of that tile it goes just to the top of the tape so what I want to do is I want to mark my centerline okay so one inch off that tile that's my centerline and the reason I want to do that is I don't want to have a gap appearing here where it's tile and then grow it in the tile new grout because the wood isn't necessarily gonna be perfectly straight so we'll drop it down just a hair and so then we're gonna want that to be the center of our hole take another eighth off for good measure now this particular hole saw has a pilot drill bit as well so what I can do is I can just line that up on my tape mark and then start drilling through you'll see that it was a little wobbly after the pilot drill holes started but that's the point of this tip this pilot hold keeps your drill bit from rocking around to wild and so once I get these holes started then I'll take out my pilot hole and then I'll drill all the way through this bit comes with an allen key that I can use to reverse my set screw and pull out my starter now we'll just finish off these holes [Music] yep there's definitely wood in there [Music] make sure you clean this out as you go once it gets jammed up it's really hard to clean up I like to just do a little rocking lotion as I'm drilling I think really reduces the amount of contact that I have with the bit so doesn't overheat [Music] [Music] so now we're done with this tape you can see following that procedure you won't crack your grout lines or anything it's not about speed and pressure here it's just about letting the bit do the job and you'll walk away from that I'm scared so I'm gonna set up my laser across the room and just drop that laser line down until it's just on the top of that tile in case you're wondering the outside corner beads of this wall we're done with the metal corner bead and that laser has a magnetic lock on the back so I can put that on any corner in the house as long as it's got a metal corner baby it just sticks there on the wall by itself won't even scratch the paint so I'm choosing to install it with these pocket hole screws up because once this is installed most people aren't gonna see the top of the shelf they're only gonna see the bottom all right so I want to make sure that this is gonna be out of that hot line of sight now we get to do a little bit of trial and error here and I'm thinking I'm gonna just get my wood underneath my screws I'll start here right on that laser line okay and then drive my bed home [Music] just throw in our bed extender here I'm gonna drive it all the way so just because you got a great idea doesn't mean it's always gonna work this screw actually hit our stud just a little off-center and as it was driving through its the wood split and the big chunk tore off so our screw is now it's just spinning on the wall so what I have to do now is because I'm gonna be using wood filler and sanding anyway I don't have a choice but to line up my hole do I have a new screws through that wall on the angle to hit the far side of the stud and give it a little bit of a lift because it pulled off level okay back to level so for the purpose of the video our way in the last couple of steps but I would sure anybody willing to tackle this kind of a project at home is probably more than capable of finishing their wood but really all it comes down to its mixing up a little bit of your plastic wood here this stuff is really amazing because it doesn't shrink and it smells awesome all right of course we're just gonna put that in and press it in we don't have a lot of residue because although it's sandable anyone who's ever worked with this stuff before knows and it's not matte sandable it'll give you a bit of a fight we'll let that set up a little bit and it'll come back and fill it up somewhere later so there you go I'm not gonna waste all your time sanding and finishing the wood we're just going to use a straight-up very thin finish on this which would be really easy to maintain and I'll keep the dust reflecting if you want to see how this looks when it's all done check out the video links at the end of this video because we're gonna have the reveal for the whole project you'll see the kitchen the custom-made hood fan all those elements make sure if you haven't check out the concrete countertop video it's very cool and subscribe if you haven't subscribed I would like everybody to hit the like button on this video because this is a great project for anybody to do at home well thanks for making it to the end of another long video I know there's been a lot of information there hope you found it entertaining as well as informative make sure you can check out our page here we've got some whole links there for other a twosie videos we've got some basements and some bathroom stuff anything you need to know we're here to help so please comment in the section underneath let us know the kind of thing you'd like to see next and also make sure you hit the like button you know all these kinds of little things go a long way to having YouTube that promote us around the world to help you instruct more more more people so better we do the more we can bring for you appreciate your help see you next time [Music] you

Channel: Home RenoVision DIY

Views: 1,391,976

Rating: 4.8237529 out of 5

Keywords: home reno vision, renovate, kitchen renovation, how to renovate a kitchen, diy kitchen, renovate kitchen, diy, diy kitchen remodel, kitchen diy, how to remodel a kitchen, minimalist style, kitchen remodel diy, home renovation diy, diy kitchen renovation, minimalist kitchen, diy renovation, kitchen remodel, renovating kitchen, diy home renovation, kitchen reno, renovation kitchen, kitchen renovation diy, home renovision diy

Id: kBeJvqAZf4s

Length: 151min 10sec (9070 seconds)

Published: Sat Apr 21 2018