How To Install Drywall A to Z | DIY Tutorial

hey it's Jeff from home random vision here today we got a video for you all of my advanced tips and tricks for doing drywall work as a DIY er we got everything in here included with how to order it how to hang it how to finish it all the tools you're going to need and all of my finishing tips that are going to make you look like a pro so stick around don't forget to ask your questions in the comment section and give us a like if any of this information is good to help you today we are in my kitchen renovation project we're here to talk about drywall and all things pertaining to a real successful installation but before we go any further I'm going to encourage you to subscribe to our channel if you haven't because you're not gonna want to miss all of the videos were doing about this kitchen renovation it's going to be spectacular but let's dive right into it we've already ordered our drywall and is sitting here behind me but what we're gonna talk about today is preparation inspection how to measure how to order how to make sure that everything is ready to go before you start drywalling because the biggest drag we're gonna call it when you're installing drywall is having to stop to fix something or you miss a step or something that's buried in the ceiling so I'm gonna teach you my system for installing drywall quick and effectively and it starts with preparation so before we go any further I'm just gonna let you know that I gave my son Matthew the bulk of the work here and he's done a pretty fantastic job but because he's brand-new he's made a few little errors I don't make it expect that you guys I have the same kind of situations so instead of just fixing them first when I have them come over and join me Matt come on in we're gonna go a quick little tour we're gonna talk about the kind of things that you're gonna miss on your projects that Matt also makes and then we'll show you some quick remedies and solutions to all these little things that'll give you a professional result so let's get going first of all nice I'm pleased now this project here is a little complicated because we've got I don't know 300 lights in the ceiling right we've got an 1880s it's balloon frame construction so we don't even have top plates everywhere we don't have continuous vapor barrier there's a lot of issues here so our our goal in this renovation is to get the house improved as far as the science of the construction but not to go too crazy right because we've got to find that sweet spot of making sense now first of all our let's talk about strapping on the ceiling so generally we strap the ceilings before we drywall I don't like the screw right to the floor joists especially with dimensional lumber even if it's old because it has a tendency of wanting to move around and all the vibrations in the house will be transferred into every screw that you install if you put in strapping first like we've got then all the vibrations are transferred through much less fasteners okay and the drywall will sit a lot tighter and you'll find you won't get as many nail pops in time so basically we're not getting too crazy here strapping also allows us to install our drywall from one side of all right to the other so we don't get any butt joints on the ceiling so that's why we do this if we were to hang drywall here without the strapping we'd be hanging it this way and since the room is over 20 feet long we'd have butt joints everywhere and that increases the amount of work by putting the strapping on now we're installing our drywall this way drywall comes up to 12 feet wide our room is just a little over 11 feet so no butt joints and we'll show you what a butt joint is later in the next series if you're not familiar with that but what we mean is a butt joint takes three applications of mud and the regular side of the drywall only takes two so this makes things a lot quicker if you can avoid having butt joints strapping is great every 16 to 20 inches and we we space that out based on where the pot lights are gonna be located so when we go to drill our pot lights we're not drilling through the wood this was done well right we're all good to go there is one issue with this so we did a rough inspection with the electrical inspector and we had all pots lined up but since that we've decided we're going to go three pendants over the island so what I need you to do Matt is I need you to cut this wire and feed it through into that box just about two or three inches and then tighten that screw for me real quick that way I can wire that up later okay so you can just curl it around and bring it in the box okay there you go yeah those are the access you just have to bend it open and then wiggle it off there you go now generally speaking those boxes are already open in the open position so you can just feed the wire it beautiful and if you just throw two inches in there or so and then we'll tighten that up with the drill all right so that's awesome we got the wires in can you just back the moat a little bit so that when we put the drywall on it's not causing them to be compressed in there okay and then here's the drill just tighten up that set screw good and then grab the wire and just bring all those extra wires onto that side of the back there you up into the ceiling there you go nice and tight like that beautiful so now you're not going to have any problem with the compression now you got your pliers up on the strapping that's how I lose most of my tools try not to do that all right come on down that's good we're set to go there okay so there's just two things that I noticed over here first of all this is awesome because you did the bottom part and there's a joint it's taped this joint here now because of the age of the home and the fact that nowhere else in this house has got a continuous vapor barrier that sealed up if you're just doing one room I get it this will work fine but because we're eventually working our way through the whole house we're gonna bring it up to the standard of air sealed so what I want you to do since it's full of staples and all that kind of jazz I want you just take the tuck tape and tape that joint together top to bottom and then on the bottom where we've got the vapor barrier coming and down onto the floor I want you to get the acoustic seal and I want you to run with nice thick bead and press that all in and throw in a couple of sets staples okay gotcha beautiful Oh again using that as a shelf oh man you're gonna lose that night wasted or me I got to get you used to wearing a pouch yeah there you go sweet now there's two ways to seal up a vapor barrier when there's an overlap one is with the tape the other one is acoustic seal acoustic seal works great in situations where you haven't stapled it all on yet since this is stapled it's just faster for us to get it done this way just a quick note when you're working with this tape I always fold over the edge so that it doesn't seal against itself so just save a lot of aggravation okay so this is the acoustic seal basically it just kind of like cut the tip off so that it comes out in a nice thick bead sweet yeah so then when I put on the photo squeeze it nice and tight does that need to be punctured probably throw the puncture trick so I guess some of these caulking guns have a little like needle here it pops out it's always easier they get full of goop yeah it's kind of like stick it in there and poke it a few times it's gonna get messy it's gotta be a better way to do that okay right up against the edge of that okay not too far into the room further back there you go and that's that's the way here this stuff works great that man it makes it messy there you go so press it in now we got an air seal that is awesome so the secret when you're inspecting your job is go one system at a time first inspect all of your electrical then check all of your framing then check your air barrier and so on and so on and so on and if you do that and you won't be always picking up and putting down tools you can just keep on working through the room one tool the time so well Matt's cleaning off that goop I'm gonna just throw a few screws I'm using Florrie screws here into my strapping I noticed that the last row here wasn't done with a nail gun and I want to make sure that everything is secured properly before you hang your drywall on it okay one other thing you want to inspect very carefully user insulation this is your last opportunity to see it so you want to visually inspect and make sure that there are no ugly gaps like right here okay if you have an ugly gap how to open the plastic get your hand in here and get that filled properly most times what it is is during the installation process someone will tuck it in a corner it'll pop out right the every action has an opposite equal reaction syndrome when you're done that make sure you get your tape and seal that vapor barrier up again press it in there really good because this tape only sticks under pressure if you just touch it you know it won't be attaching itself it'll just fall off make sure you do that that's good yup steps then we have a problem over here of a better address to so what I have here is a framing issue I actually are missing the last piece of this interior wall we should have a stud running along here somewhere to line up here so we have a intersection for my drywall now I asked my son to put in some blocking and he did that I should have taken the time to explain it properly because he's got it the short side here and what I should have is the wide side okay so Matt what we're gonna get you to do is pull the blocking set it where the installation joints are okay and then we're gonna go on on the wide side of where the installation joint is you pull the plastic and you can through your screws right here on an angle and you can actually screw right through into that board okay it's really easy to install you can set these screws before you put the board there and then once you get that done then you can take this insulation and you can just you know lay it in behind the board because there's just enough room because of the old framing great it's an actual 2x4 here so this hard 12 won't be compromised if you put it in behind this and then I'll give it a much better seal because by going underneath you're compressing behind it but you're creating these gaps you see that right where the cold air will come through so what we're gonna do is we're going to just throw in our laser level here and this one is a little bit different than the one I usually use there's my line right there so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna just throw my line on here I'll draw right over that laser line that'll mean that's where the front edge of that 2x4 is that we're gonna stick on and that's awesome sauce and then we'll throw a level on it when we install it after that so here we go what we want to do is we want to cut our barrier where the installation joint is because now when you go to change that wood you'll know exactly where it goes right in the middle and then we're gonna make like a cut it like an H so you got lots of room to get in there and work okay so now you can access your screws flip that over boom boom boom when you're done we'll just tape it all up okay awesome [Music] right we're just lining up our our stud on that laser line that I made with my my marker on the plastic always great to have markers with you when you're working order your vapor barrier it's so much more effective than pencil okay no it's the level on it I'll do the level I'll tell you when you can hit the top for me first yeah there we go all right throw a couple more in for good measure just to make sure that it's not going to twist on us okay so our inspection is complete we've got our back framing or vapor barriers taken care of our lighting or strapping everything is all done we're ready for drywall and we aren't gonna have to take our hands off the installation tools once we get started that is a huge goal you'd be surprised how fast installation will go if you don't constantly have to stop to fix little things the other side of it is a lot of people when they're dry walling if they don't have everything prepped perfectly first the drywallers are just skipped right on past all those other mistakes and they'll remain there forever so if you're doing your own renovation and you're contracting out the drywall that inspection is golden don't expect the drywall er to come in here and do any of that work for you it'll never happen now what we want to talk about is ordering your own drywall okay remember we talked about strapping the ceiling so we can order our drywall and what we want to do now is just measure the width of the room it's a little over 11 feet okay which is good now drywall comes in traditionally eight nine ten and twelve foot sections depending where you go we just go like that and that's easier okay so what I do when I'm doing my order is I'll start I'll make a list like this twelve ten 9s and eights in a lot of cases I don't buy nines but every once in a while it's really handy especially if you have a nine-foot ceiling all those short walls it's just perfect right so we have eleven feet across and we have twenty feet to the other direction so what way it's going to look as let me do draw this over here's my room okay so I'm gonna have a sheet that's four feet wide another sheet that's four feet wide and so on and so on okay there's five of them that's five times four feet wide 20 feet long then it's 11 and changed so by a 12 foot and we'll cut one end of each of those that's how we do this so I need five one two three four five now this long wall is going to be installed with drywall on the horizontal not the vertical never install drywall vertically if you are dealing with old frames because they're not parallel they're not level they're they're not straight you want to go horizontal whenever you're dealing with with a structural number if you're in a house that has steel framing you can go vertical because they always install it perfectly level and you can always adjust a screw if you need to what does not give you that flexibility so we have 20 feet then we have two choices we can put a 10 and then a 10 on the top part but then what do you do let me just draw this out so here's my whole long 20 foot wall if I put a 10 foot and another 10 foot I have a joint right here then the next sheet I want to stagger the joint it's one of the rules of drywall you don't want the butt joint in the same place so I'd want a joint there and then what am I going to do with this have two joints on a wall when it's not needed so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna go with 12 feet with an 8 okay and then I'll go 8 feet here with a 12 that offsets my joints that makes life nice and simple I only have one joint in each wall perfect keep that in mind so I need two more 12s and I need two eights and you continue on through the room like that measure all your ceilings first get all your numbers that ceiling there is 12 feet long and it's 10 feet wide so I know I need three 10s for the ceiling that means the wall is also 10 feet wide I got two ends of that so I need two for each side okay that makes life simple now I've got all my major walls already ready done they ordered the only thing left is all the short walls now if your wall is less than four feet which would be here anything for feet and less you can order one sheet to go vertical because now you can span from the corner to a corner with one sheet so you're fine anything under that so I just walked through my room and I pick out all the small ones I go that's a that's an eight that's an eight one two three four five six seven eight boom and I go in two three four five six seven eight now I've got on my driver water now the last thing I do before I order my drywall I always toss an extra couple eights on there because things happen all right damage happens you miss adding something it's just nice to have it around better to have an extra couple of sheets on the site when you're dry walling then be almost finished and have to go back to the store and pick a couple up especially if you're getting it delivered because you don't have a track all right so now we got the drywall let's talk about how to carry it where you gonna put it on the job site and how to load up the room so that you can install it without having to move it over and over and over again to get it out of your way okay so as I mentioned I'm working in my kitchen but let's just talk about a few other things that are really important because this information is useful no matter where you're working in your house there are a variety of different dry walls in the market now traditionally we use what we call half inch standard regular ultra light all these different terms are the same thing there's a half-inch basic drywall that's for residential construction whenever there's no consideration or a no requirement by building code for fire safety or water or moisture control so most of the house is going to get that half-inch if you're working in a bathroom you might have a code requirement for using a green water and mold resistant board those are options as well and generally speaking we it's only specific to a bathroom some people use it on the back wall of a kitchen if they're tiling and expecting if there's a sink there for water damage that's an option as well the other kind of drywall it's most common is the 5/8 drywall it's what we call type X now in the back of this drywall you can see it's just got a print the date and manufacturer and that's it on type X drywall the drywall itself has got a band written on it and it actually says type X drywall on it that's for the inspectors when they're doing a tour of the jobsite they No yes that's fire rated drywall and it'll ever say whether it's 5/8 or 1/2 inch because they're different ratings for fire code we don't wanna get into too much of that right now but in most residential situations if you're using type X fire wall board it's because you're in a row house or you have a semi-detached and your neighbor the building code requires a fire separation while between the two dwelling units okay so if you have a bathroom that you're renovating and that bathroom wall is on your neighbor's side of the property and you're sharing that wall that drywall has to be type X so you want to put in your fire rating well first then put in your moisture board okay very important you can't cheat there because it's a matter of liability in case something goes horribly wrong now the only other time you're gonna use 5/8 drywall is if you're using sound control measures if you're putting insulation and you want to help make things a little bit more dense you can add one or two layers for soundproofing and if you want to learn about soundproofing we're going to put a link in the description because we've got a few videos that are awesome information about soundproofing and it's really important to have that understanding before you go close up because there are issues there that you might want to address in your house as well now that we understand all the different kinds of drywall that are out there let's get busy with the next step so when I'm bringing drywall into a house I like to stack it up against the wall not on the floor and that's generally because it keeps it a lot cleaner you'll end up using it as a ladder and it's just not necessary if you're using a drywall lift to put your drywall in position you don't want anything on the floor in the room that's what I like to use I'm a big fan of using the machine to lift my ceilings in place now I know I'm gonna get a lot of comments from contractors out there going ah we just lift it up and hold it somebody else screws the board and that's great if you got two or three guys on your crew but this system works amazing for homeowners you might be by yourself or have one a guy helping you and you're not used to working with it you don't want to be lugging that around and causing yourself injury because you're using muscles you don't usually use so rent a drywall if if you need to and if you want to see a video about drywall lifts and some of the different ones that are on the market check the description below because I went out and I bought the one that was for sale in Amazon and we did a comparison test between the North American made product and the one that comes across from China and you're gonna be surprised at that result it's worth the look but anyway let's get back to this I like to bring my drywall into the room and put all the short ones on the wall first because the shorter the drywall the less important it is to my installation and usually gets installed last so I put my eights first then my tens then my twelve the reason for this is I'm gonna start installing my biggest part of my ceiling first which is all my twelve footers and then I'm gonna install my other ceiling which is on my 10 footers and then when that's all done I'll come back with the eights and I'll do the little touch-ups I put it on the longest wall because this is the one that can stay to the very end and if there's a couple of sheets left over I can set them aside and then we'll put those on later but I have all my drawing one place now my card can go anywhere in the room and I don't have a you know obstacles and I don't have things to trip over and I'm not constantly moving drywall from one section to another while I finish the house so put it all in one spot have one place to work and you're golden no all right so when this stuff gets delivered it's gonna come generally in groups of two like this sometimes you know that'll come in singles but most the time it comes in groups and it has a piece of cardboard underneath the paper and it's designed to tear that taper off so the sheets can be separated so generally speaking you got three options delivery one is you go there with the truck and you pick it up yourself now you need a whole lot of truck to be able to put 12-foot sheets of drywall in there without having an accident on the way home and an average renovation space like this is 20 to 30 sheets so it's a lot of weight I generally try to have it delivered and I have a truck so and I know in some of my videos I've harped a little bit about on the box stores because of their prices but when it comes to building materials like drywall generally speaking the Home Depot and the lows are the greatest deal in - they have the lowest price per sheet now if you're just going in for a few sheets and you get a great deal you throw in your truck you drive home great if you're looking for long runs and you're getting it delivered then you start looking at options you might be able to go to a drywall contracting firm where all they do is drywall delivery and insulation and you can get a price there now their price per sheet is going to be a lot higher but they have additional delivery services that you want to balance out when you're looking at that they'll put it on a truck and sometimes they'll not just deliver it to the driveway but they'll walk it right into the house for you for about a buck a sheet or even better sometimes it's 50 cents so checking your your competition the area you live in because you might be able to get a deal where the overall cost of the project is lower if you buy more expensive drywall and get better service and the reason is this carrying 30 sheets of drywall off the truck and into your own house sometimes can take an hour or two it's exhausting and you might find yourself too tired to finish working for the rest of the day so if you want to be effective and efficient you can have it delivered and have a couple of young bucks come running it in the house and drop it on the wall for you you just got to tell them how you want it set up and they'll do it for you you're good to go then you take your drywall lift and you can get everything installed in the same day and it's not quite so exhausting so we're gonna just demonstrate a couple of tips here on ways to lift and carry your drywall that'll help reduce fatigue and it'll make sure that the wind won't blow it away on you here we go we're just gonna pick it up together straight up and I'm going to turn around and reverse my hands now it looks a little awkward at this point but you'll see is my ain't my arm creates a slope okay so that I can hold the top of the drywall like this and what Matt's going to be doing is he's going to be holding it a certain way so that he's not fighting with me if you're not carrying it in the same direction with the same slope then you're always twisting and pulling and you're gonna hurt your back so I can walk around I could open doors as I'm working and everything like that no problem at all okay so you'll see the way the mats carrying that his hand has turned the other way but he's also got the same angle okay so if I'm carrying it this way it's where we're fighting with the drywall the whole time we're walking so that's why both of us carrying it with our arms out creates that natural slope and then if you get around you got you can duck and get around obstacles no problem right now come on back and then we're gonna flip it because we want always have the drywall with the white paper facing you when you're measuring and cutting the way you flip it if you're on end end with a long sheet is quick or it might snap ready go okay there we go whoo that's precarious the other way to flip it is to work into the middle a little bit and then we can both flip it together work on the sheets is cheesy just make sure you keep your back straight you'll be fine now let's set it back in now when you're carrying 12-foot sheets of drywall they can be heavy put your knee out all right now what we've got here is friction so as long as you're putting a little bit of pressure on this drywall you don't have to carry it you just create a little bit of friction and you can control the drop okay so that way you're not gonna be slamming it on the ground and drop it nobody has to work too hard now now we got all the drywall in place the white papers facing out ready to measure and cut all right so now it's time for measuring and cutting now listen if you've learned anything in this video so far feel free to take two seconds and give us a quick thumbs up and let YouTube know that we've done a good job in the informative some new stuff now it's basically step two right we're gonna move on with installing this stuff so bear with this because we're gonna start off with the most important decision you're going to make in your drywall installation and that is where to start generally speaking when you're dealing with drywall you want to start with the ceilings but I want you to listen to what I got to say here because you want to resist the temptation to just start against the outside wall and here's why if you've been a fan of this channel at all and you heard me say this before you'll never find a room that's square now drywall is square so here's your room let's just say we're putting in a nice square room and there's no problems with it and you assume it's square that means when you put your drywall against that edge on the ceiling it'll be nice and perfect all the way across no gaps right but in reality your room is probably more like this and then when you put your drywall against the wall and you've measured from this point to this point and it says 11 feet you cut your drywall square and what you get is this you get a piece of drywall that goes like this now if you turn that drywall to fit now your drywall doesn't fit the hole it's long a one side big gap on the other side causes your world to hurt you're up there on a ladder with your buddy going home it doesn't fit somebody tries to do something stupid and jamming in there you break your drywall and now you got a huge gap save yourself all that aggravation what I want you to do is just start by measuring over 45 or 46 inches okay take that measurement and write it on the wall we'll call it 11 feet move over 4 feet take that measurement okay and then what you're going to have is because you're using the short side of the wall if it's still 11 feet here to hear the you are installing it square now the distance here might be 44 on one side and 45 on the other side but you can cut that because your sheets 48 inches wide so all you do is just start your line just a few inches shy of the width of a drywall and measure both lines and install that sheet first then put that in to fill so the rest of this whole room go in nice and square and generally speaking one of these walls will be square and you can take your square in a level and you can throw it across your framing and you can double check in a corner to see how it's doing find the one corner that's the most square and work off of that one okay but to make your life simple because you're it's really hard to measure a perfect piece of drywall the first time just start 44 inches in and then off you go what we're gonna do Matt if you could just do that so when you're communicating with somebody else in the room and let's say there's two of you're working you've got a friend helping and hang your drywall what you want to do is establish you know which wall is your your level wall okay so we have a beam that's supporting the open space in this house so this is our beam all right so when I'm asking for a measurement I'm asking first from the beam out and then from the beam out right and I'm gonna say this wall here has a door and this one has a window so we can communicate right so when I'm making my drywall here I'm gonna be taking this sheet putting it over and lifting it up so I can right door side and I know when he's given me a measurement that this door side this is going to be the square side that's going to be the cut end because we're gonna pick it up and go like this and install it this way okay I don't know if that made a lot of sense but let's try that one more time the door is over here so we're gonna pick the sheet up rotate it just like in the picture and lift it up so my my door symbol would be on that part of the drywall so when I'm installing this the other end here ends up down here on the square wall we're not cutting we're gonna cut the other side in case these dimensions are different so so we're gonna just measure this together now we're measuring based on this floor joist because this floor joist is 45 inches in the room which is a perfect location okay Matt right to the stud what's my actual measurement of 134 and like 7/8 of some of that 134 to 7/8 okay so what I'm gonna write is 134 7/8 okay now we want to move over one two three more studs now these joists are actually the three studs their choice these joists are 16 inches apart so if you just count three more it's actually four feet it's a great cheat it's one of the reasons why I love having things strapped because it makes math so much easier 135 and a quarter so here we go all right that's a huge difference the other side down here it's one thirty five and a quarter important to write these down now you want to do a little math because the last thing you want to do is cut this drywall exactly the right dimension so if this represents the whole dimension the wall ceiling in the wall you want your drywall to actually come a little bit short at the end all the way across well it's almost a straight line and then short on the other side remember the drywall is half an inch thick so if you're 1/4 inch shy over here at a quarter and shy over here that makes it a lot easier to install and the next sheet that goes up is going to come out past that point all right and it's gonna go in horizontal but you're gonna have a nice solid joint there so you don't have to worry about being perfect drywall is not finished carpentry its drywall so you really want to take advantage of the opportunities you have to cut these short spaces so that the install goes nice and simple all right so this becomes a half an inch shorter so we're taking a quarter inch from each side so you take half an inch off of that now this is fractions I know it's math right this is gonna be crazy half an inch in eighths is actually 4 eighths so you take that off leaves you three eighths so we're gonna end up with one thirty-four and three eighths the other side we got one thirty five and a quarter that ends up being one thirty four and three quarters so because these numbers are different we're gonna want to put the mark on the top and the bottom and then connect the dots now this is a really old house and as a result I'm not surprised that they're different now this is our new tool we're gonna introduce this the t-square for drywall and if you put that point it sits on this on the drywall right on my mark now I'm a good I'm about a half an inch off down here so there's options for cutting in you and drywall videos people will take their tape measure and they'll take their knife they'll extend the blade a little bit and they'll basically hold the knife to the tape okay and then they can measure and they can cut and you can set this up if I wrote the door on the other side of the drywall I'll be cutting on this end and then you can set this up where your finger is actually the guide and then you just pinch the drywall with the measurement you want and you can cut a straight line with the knife okay and that works great when you're making square cuts but in situations like this you can't use the tape you can't cheat so what we're gonna do is we're going to use our square and we're going to just move the bottom of that and to connect the dots use our total hold it in position draw a line with a pencil the reason you want the pencil is when you're working like this sometimes it's difficult to keep everything where you want it so having a visual guide to make sure that you're still on track is a good thing okay now we just press it against the drywall and we're lightly cutting the paper okay this is not an exercise I'm trying to cut all the way through the board now very important to have a really sharp knife here I recommend the Olfa knife I'm not getting paid to say this I just been using them for years it's adjustable its retractable they have a snap off blade and you get a lot of life out of this so this one blade is gonna do all the hot drywall in this whole room because what you're doing is you're cutting the paper remember drywall is paper with all the compressed gypsum in between the two layers as long as you can cut the paper you'll break the board no problem now the way you break this after you put the score it's just that's it a little bit of a wiggle all right nothing to it now as you fold the drywall back like this you got control of it's not gonna fall over you know the reason we always have the white paper facing the front is it leaves a nice clean line and when I break that drywall the part that I'm looking at and I'm working with with my mud is nice and clean if I cut from the brown side okay can I break it and something goes wrong or my knife gets dull I end up with a bunch of these kind of pieces of paper tearing off now when I go to finish my drywall I can't tape that I'd actually gotta come by and tear every single piece of that off all the way down the edge alright so in order to avoid that I always have the white side out and cut that then you step back behind the drywall with your knife from bottom to the top and you're cutting through just paper now you're sticking your blade all the way through but you're only cutting paper because the gypsum is out of the way and then grab both sides so they don't fall over set the garbage to the side there we go now it's ready for installation all we have to do is assemble our drywall lift throw it up in the ceiling all right so just before you put your drywall on the ceiling I want to take one more look and you want to get measurements so anything that you have to use a cutout tool after the fact now this is why I'm suggesting you use the cutout tool boxes like this they're an issue you have electrical fixtures you have heat ducts you can have fans all kinds of different protrusions through the drywall when it's finished generally speaking you want to cut those out with a cutout tool after you install the drywall because if you try to measure exactly the location on to that drywall based on where it goes up you're going to be really disappointed remember we're leaving a little bit of gap on each side the world isn't perfectly square even if we think it is the drywall is square you're cutting might not be straight there's so many variables that leaving all of the cutouts until after it's installed is your best bet so what you want to do is you want to measure the center murk of this fixture center line and you want to write it on your plastic wall you can't dry wall without a marker I'm telling you right now this is like the most important tool 58 inches okay so at around the 58 inch mark I'm gonna put an arrow okay I'm gonna put 58 and then I'm gonna measure from the other side 45 and then I'm gonna put this arrow 45 it doesn't look like much but as soon as I put this sheet up I'm going to check my wall okay and I'm going to draw this and mark that spot on the drywall for a future cutout tool now I think we'll show that on the video right away anyway but the point is your system should be check where your sheets going make sure any protrusions you've got labeled and marked and then the next sheet over you can always take a pencil and mark it on the drywall right where the next to where the protrusion is and you can just follow that system one sheet at a time nice and methodical don't be in a hurry and bury everything that's generally how drywallers do it that goes so quick they always miss something take it easy make notes think twice double-check now you can proceed so here's our our drywall lift these products are generally available at a lot of tool rental stores you can just rent them for the day or just a few hours if that's all you need it for Peregrin Pro manufacture companies that makes this this is made in the USA solid steel it's an amazing tool and if you haven't seen the other video where we discussed the difference between this and the cheap junk that's available on Amazon I actually bought one just to check it out and we did a video on the differences pros and cons you've really got to check that out I'm just gonna whip this together and start putting up the drywall while Matt goes out to buy our lunch just a quick note before you go sticking your drywall on and closing your ceiling make sure you've made a map of all of your electrical you need to know the exact center locations for after the fact so you can drill your holes for all your pot lights crucial now let's just recap we've got our drywall we've got a cut we've got it measured we know it's square in the room we're going about 44 inches off the fixture we're gonna cut out is written on the wall so in reality this drywall can go pretty much anywhere within a few inches right as long as it fits in the hole it doesn't matter where it lands we're gonna be just fine this is the benefit of my system you don't have to be perfect in your location you just want to get it roughly in the area keep an eye on things try to keep them relatively square all right buh-buh-buh now we were trying to go off this floor joist here or give or take about that spot now I know I'm less than 48 inches to the wall good look a little bit tighter I've tucked all my wires up so there's not gonna be any problem there all right now I just want to make sure my gap here you're straight and it's not and this is my key if the gap on each side of this drywall to my header is the same I know I'm going in somewhat square so I'm just gonna make a couple of modifications before I put too much tension on it I like that and then the last thing I got to do is give it a little bit of tension push it up there nice and tight now nothing's gonna go anywhere I'm free to go get my tools and screw that on so here's this thing I just went out and I bought a new dimple a bit from Dewalt and it goes to spring-loaded does a great job throw on your screw and generally speaking the idea is it sets the screw deep enough that it is recessed so it's not too proud so you can fill it with mud and it doesn't break the paper and the way you can test that is use a 5:1 this rub over top there's no clicking sound here that if it clicks it's not deep enough so then you can adjust this just by turning the head you can turn the head in and out and then you set the wheel behind it to Snug it up right anyway I just wanted to show you that because that's a nice little tool and I picked that up so that you know we'd have some options but I also went up and picked up a new tool for Maddy he doesn't own a screw gun yet and so this is a drywall screw gun it's very specific tool it's generally only for drywall and it has a adjustable neck as well and so it's very quick and so you can turn the motor on the tip doesn't spin until you put pressure on it all right and then that's not deep enough obviously so then you adjust your head until you get what you want out of it that's too deep so I'm just gonna play around here a little bit until I get the right depth setting no still not deep enough so I'm gonna turn one more click maybe I like on that it's just barely though so I want to throw one more it on there there perfect now it's set in place one little suggestion I have is Matt actually can you grab the electrical tape take a little bit of electrical tape and wrap it on the Chuck now now that you have the depth set there's no need to fine-tune it there's no situation the need for that will change so we're just gonna take care of that right now now I got that taped on it's good to go forever and ever every men listen this particular tool is like only 80 bucks and the way you hold it is it has like a pistol grip so that you're always pushing right up through the screws and you're not gonna slip off and just use the your last couple years how runs the trigger nice and easy now it's corded which means it's a good deal all right 80 bucks hello if your drywall you don't have power in the house then you're probably in brand-new construction you might need to get a corded cordless version but that's like 300 or so so I prefer to go with corded especially for home renovations this is a great tool upgrade for a homeowner because it's one of those things that if you have you can make really quick work of this job and it's gonna be a perfect screw every time and you're not going to be adjusting and fiddling around and breaking through paper and causing all of those problems associated with just using a hand drill definitely one by one you want to buy any of these tools the lift the drill is a little bit's you can go to our web page now the links in the description we've got a brand new affiliates link there so we got affiliates from all kinds of different companies so feel free to do your shop in there there should be some deals available everybody's got different prices on different things so you can do some comparative shopping but we just put together a little bit of a resource for you to help make shop easier another quick tip if you find a hardware store that sells screws in bulk you just pay by the pound it's half price when you go to the store and you buy them in these little plastic containers uh-huh half price the best part of using a screw gun in this situation is it's really super quick and you don't run the risk having any problems with puncturing the paper so now for the next sheet you'll notice that when you screw the drywall in now you have the strapping as Merck to put this drywall now cross here we need a mark this is again where this black marker comes in handy a nice big black line under each one B strapping on the plastic and you won't have any issues with knowing where to attach your drywall so as long as you put a screw on this each strap on this sheet and you mark with the marker on this side you'll know all your locations for putting on the next sheet so here we get into something a little bit more tricky because we're putting in a sheet that's going to get cut it's not a full eight feet four feet across so when you're cutting your sheet down you really want to be cutting where it's comfortable up here it's a lot easier to cut here and break it and trim it than at the bottom obviously that means this is now gonna be my factory edge on the ceiling so last time we took the sheet and we basically lifted it up like this right and that would make this the cut side if we did that again so now I've got to do this thing I got to flip it around so you're gonna get very confused so this is where knowing where the door is and marking it on this is gonna be very important so this is gonna be the door side where I'm gonna be cutting off okay so I'm gonna put the cut side here so now I got to visualize grabbing this sheet and going the other way all right that makes left right and right left very odd so our measurement on where the where the joint is is 134 and 3/8 we're gonna put that number down here now okay the cut side I remote down 133 and 3/4 okay and just for safety sake this is my beam okay so when we're picking it up we're picking it up like this and that beam goes over there behind us and that whole cut side will be on the outside that actually makes sense and the reason you have to be very careful here is because the cut line at each end are different measurements and it's so easy to get them reversed and then you cut the wrong angle so end up with it doesn't fit on one side it's a huge gap on the other side the right side of the sheet I wrote down is 42 and three-eighths that's over there and that's at this end 42 and 3/8 from here and the other end is 42 and 3/4 okay so now we have all that figured out so we're just going to draw that line on the angle again like we did last time now here's the thing five and a quarter is how much for cutting off on this side and five and a half on the other side now it might seem like a small thing but if we take our total amount which is about 140 something that 134 65 around here that's about the center of the board if we make a mark here five and a quarter or five and a half the difference is five and three-eighths okay then I can go like this with the pencil I can hold it on five and five and a quarter and I can start drawing 5min a quarter and slowly bring my pencil down to five and three-eighths where it hits the middle right about here and then slowly bring it down the marker to five and a half BAM so I've drawn a straight line that's actually on an angle over 11 feet it's a great trick if you can get good at that now you can freehand cut this just trace it out with a knife bring your blade out about a half an inch remember we're only cutting the paper so you don't have to use a lot of pressure you don't have to go deep just got to get that a nice sharp blade in the paper and then just set your hand your fingers up against the drywall and all you do is instead of looking at the blade look an inch in front of it and as long as you're looking at the at the pencil mark you'll find your blade almost instinctively cut that mark within a millimeter or two it's not going to be an issue because remember we've already taken off about a quarter inch or so off that measurement to allow the wall board to cover the gap and you can do the same thing on this edge because this is on an angle if you make the mark with your pencil okay all you got to do is get close doesn't have to be perfect if you make a mistake make it on the short side it's easier to fill okay we break that a nice clean cut then we start down here [Music] it gets really big it's hard to manage now you can cut this from both sides just be cautious and be aware where the blade is the whole time okay go bearish how's that feel yeah that's pretty balanced you can extend my arm here okay one thing to remember is try to leave the handle and the wheel facing you when you go in tight to the wall all right there we go bounce you a little bit now once we get close now it's time to worry about that we're up there nice if you're not afraid of the noise these awesome guns have got a little trigger set on here so leave the motor on the whole time and the only time the tip spins is when there's compression so don't mind me all right so now we're going to talk about installing the wall we're gonna get three measurements here the top the middle and the bottom because we're putting our sheets in horizontally those are the three numbers that we're gonna need one thirty four will go with we'll reach up as high as I can go okay in the bottom believable I've always found his best practice sorry to get me all these measurements we're gonna treat that corner like it's square actually we gonna treat this one we get square because this one is that one actually slopes in one of my tips for my system is using the plastic as a way to make notes right so I'm gonna get Matt to just write down all the dimensions from this corner which we're gonna call square because we put a level on it and we'll measure right to left on these cases where we want the drywall to end okay well put the number here so that we can translate that information we're gonna go tight to the ceiling from a factory edge so we can also measure from the ceiling down to the header okay give me those two points as well you do all of that I'm gonna start translating this information from a full sheet and I'll cut the board okay so this box here it's it's a live box right it's already in place we're not gonna use the kind of tool here because we've got a switch attached to it instead of disengaging the wiring and putting it all back together again what we're gonna do is we're going to take these two screws out pull this out twist it we're gonna pre-cut the hole on the drywall for this okay it's not the greatest plan but it's a good plan for the situation let's show people how to do that so we're gonna get this measurement exact measurements for these four quarters off that wall in this wall we're assuming that this is relatively square here just because we put that stud in with the laser level we should get pretty close then I'm gonna just take those measurements and make the hole a little bit bigger and then we'll come and install that together so we're done here is we've measured the sheet to fit the whole wall we've measured out where the the framework ends around the door okay this all gets kind of that represents the door so there's the frame there's the insulation and then there's actual frame in the wall so you got dorje of insulation wall frame we're measuring to the edge of the wall frame so we don't have interruption with the foam and then over here we've just marked out where the location the plug is and we're going to cut that in advance because it's a live plug the switch is already attached this is a Seco system you can use at home if you're dry walling this space that's already finished the idea here is to cut all this and then then install it so that it's one piece we don't have joints around the door because joints are in the door or the most likely place you're gonna find cracks figure that so if you can eliminate the risk of the crack you solve a problem before it starts now this is an old - I've been using this for about twelve years now drywall saw the teeth on it every other tooth they go in two different directions so they actually cut the hole a little wider than the blade itself makes really quick and easy to cut holes nice and simple just a few bucks but having a good hand tool on you all the difference in the world right so that's gonna mark the ceiling where the studs intersect make sure you hit the middle of the stud that was the outside of this mat it's really important to get the middle of the start knowing that where you start the pencil isn't buried by the drywall so you do that hockey stick action we're not gonna know where it is now because the door jamb is already installed we're gonna cut this in advance of getting over there all right we just put our level on the ground here just to create a Leever because the our ground is actually a little warped so if I had this sitting on the ground and then I cut it out it might snap the drywall in half because the floor is doing wonky things unreal [Music] well that drywall kind of tool is amazing it's a noisy it's dusty but man is it efficient and you can also use it for cutting around all your electrical boxes that don't have wiring it will show you that in just a minute let's get this in place nice and easy on this one okay because of the door issue you want to be more in the middle of that panel so that you have got a lot of control okay you're over there okay let me put my end up first number closed like a door how's that working okay now you can see how crazy wonky this house is this is how how worked everything is right how did you measure this I give I cut it the measurement that's written on the wall look at the gap I'm two inches away from where I should be here's the evidence this is the number that he gave me measuring from here across so that's the number that I cut the truth is the stud is at fifty six and a half because I need the drywall on the wood to attach it 57 you're on the right how am I gonna screw the wood if you cut it over here oh you told me to measure the edge of the stud wrong edge we're gonna attach it to the wall big part of it this is one of these moments where you just go moose Papa ah okay so two things have were there one there is a apparently breakdown of communication and we're gonna blame me that's fine I get that but to the ceiling on this house is so out of whack the floor is out of whack there's nothing square to work with here so in it in most homes you don't deal with the 1880 Payne but here we are so what we're gonna do is we're going to start on the floor so that we at least have something to measure from it's kind of a similar concept of the ceiling starting with a second sheet we put it on the floor throw it in the corner that sits nice so that can be treated like square and then we're just going to come over here and we're gonna mark where to cut the board so that we can screw it to the stud and then BAM so now I'm gonna cut that line are you kidding me look at that even this this is out almost an inch over four feet oh my god everything is here is so crooked it's our job to make a look straight all right so all that information about measuring that's all great information because generally we like to install tight against the ceiling and that works great if your house is level but in this case everything is old and twisted and weird so it's better for us to work here so we have a nice straight edge that we can measure up because even once we put that sheet in there we realized we were installing like this and the same thing happened where things are too long or too short it's just wacky laughter you go you this and I'll measure and cut the next piece and then we'll be able to measure nice and snug up to the ceiling and all of our points across here and we'll be able to basically trace out the contour of that ceiling unreal so since I'm installing this drywall first I'm just translating this information about where that box is is it inches over and 19 inches up there we go and that'll be fine I'm also going to need to just remove a little bit of work here for that box nice but a little bit of luck I'll be able to we're gonna listen behind yes sir once you get a couple of screws in just stop get your cutting tool out we know the middle of that location in the box now this particular tool the tip of it is like a guide point and it doesn't have a cutting wheel on it so it'll just run around the perimeter what we do is we puncture the hole we run to the edge we hop over the other side of the box and then we keep pressure on the outside of that box until we've traced it out and it cuts through the drywall [Music] perfect every time oh yeah whoo so here's how we do this boom that's close to the middle six feet right there all right in this situation and I mean if you could do this kind of drywall installation whatever you face you're gonna be fine if you have square and you have level you have a lot of advantage if you don't and you're working an old house like this you've really gotta use your noggin and you got to have a laser level what I'm gonna do I've marked out six feet exactly on that drywall BAM there's my mark now here's the best part there we go there's my six foot mark right here okay six feet now what I'm gonna do and I'm tipping my six foot mark on okay there we go all the way up and down now what we're gonna do is we're going to take our measurements from the wall from that line measuring at the bottom of the drywall which will be my finished edge to the edge to the corner which is six feet because we measure it from there so I know that's six feet I'm going to take it from the top measure it to the outside corner so now we're gonna measure from our 6-foot mark over to the corner all right so 71 and that's just a half-inch less than six feet so now I'm going to translate that information over to this side I know I gotta take a half an inch off here to zero and we're going to just do this over and over and over again measuring all of the elements on that wall well based on that center line using the center line and the drywall as our level this sounds kind of complicated but the reality is if we have a horizontal line and we have a center line and we measure everything up and then off we can find every point around the outside of that perimeter of that sheet of drywall including cut out around the door and we can cut all that out first and then just set it in place perfectly what we want to do is create a multitude of points for taking measurements from this was just over four feet don't need a measurement just over four feet that one's exactly four feet and I'm okay if there's a little gap at the top of the sheet I'm not concerned about it because you'll be able to fix that later it's not ideal but in this scenario nothing is gonna be ideal just under four feet okay so far so good we know the other sheet of drywall comes up a little bit so over here we're down to four and a half forty seven and a half inches forty seven and half inches so that the the ceiling definitely drops here a little bit so I'm taking a half an inch off the top over here because this whole side drops now that I've got a level edge you can see how it at the tape it just pops down there right amazing.i so we're following this drops right here so we're gonna we're gonna cut that drop in and we're going to continue measuring off for this line at the bottom the sheet they cut around the door in the bud ah once we get that all done then we'll be ready to install [Music] so before you let the guy you can go like going now take off make sure you get a screw near the top otherwise if somebody comes in the room and opens the door the air pressure change will pull the drywall right off the wall you might not be looking I learned that one the hard way we are here to talk today about drywall tools and materials specifically over 40 different things that you should own for sure you might want to buy and a few things you might even want to rent to make your life as easy as possible to make a painful job for DIY errs rather enjoyable number one on the list of course is a knife no this is the Olfa HB it is the wide fat knife it has snap off blades which is number two you're gonna want a box a snap off please know generally if you're buying a knife for the first time it'll come with an extra couple blades I did all of this kitchen and dining area here with one blade I still have a few snap off sections left the secret the cutting drywall of course is cut the paper don't stick your blade into the chalky middle on the inside and your blades will last a long time once you've got that taken care of you're gonna want to get yourself a carpenter pencil there's a difference between this and those little little tiny ones this lead is really strong really fat and will last you a long long time so this is what I use to mark my drywall in the category of tools you must own is a drywall knife because if you don't have some of the most professional tools this will at least give you the ability to cut all the holes and rectangles and big angles and inside outside corners so that you can install your drywall this one blade here is a lot of teeth that go in two different directions so when you're cutting it doesn't have a lot of friction so speed is important right not how hard you're pushing and that is the secret to using that of course when you're dealing drywall a must-have is a mask not so much for when you're installing it when you're sanding it so there are two mats that I would recommend one of them is one of these bad boys here mask like this is worth about 60 bucks for a chargeable replaceable filter sorry on the end there are about $15 a pop but it will last you for months and months even if you're working in a regular basis this one here this is from mold X and I've got this linked on our Amazon page this mask is awesome it's a got the vent here okay so I can actually wear this I can actually wear this and still talk now I don't have a nose piece to pinch because it's built in this is actually formed for your bridge of your nose it's actually it's really cool right so you don't have to worry this has a much higher performance value than those masks that have the little breathable pinch nose thing on it they're garbage right they only fills around about 50 percent your air this gets up in the 85 to 90 range all right this is the 99.99 but this is a pretty good substitute for occasional dust you can get about ten of these things in a box and it's pretty affordable so I definitely want to get you a mask as far as the workhorse you definitely need a tape measure if you're working with metal studs make sure you get a tape measure has a magnet on the end because then you can reach out magnet to the stud and then pull your reading if it's not a magnet any tape will do make sure it's high vis and it has a pretty decent stand out so that you can grab things across the room and then pull the tape tight to measure okay next two things go hand-in-hand you must have drywall corners I've never seen a room in my entire life that didn't have at least one corner on it so suggest you buy outside metal corners instead of the paper beads the paper beads are available it's more for situations where you don't have framing and you're floating a corner and you don't have anything to nail or screw to and just a pair of simple metal cutters like this aviation snips straight ones alright you can cut this corner with ease now you also need to install your drywall so you're gonna need the drill and you're gonna least need a Phillips bit I recommend these little gizmos here this has got a depth setter on it and you can get a package of two of these for like five bucks that's also on the Amazon Line being able to have a depth set with your screw is so important because if you break through the paper you aren't actually holding anything and it will just cause you a lot of grief because when you mud it and paint it it'll keep popping and you'll get bumps and chips and it's a mess the other thing you're gonna need are screws all right regular half-inch drywall takes one and a quarter inch screw if you're using 5/8 drywall for any kind of soundproof application then I would suggest getting the one on 5/8 and if you're going with the second layer the second layer will need a two-inch screw if you buy your screws at a hardware store where you can buy a whole full and you buy by the pound you'll get twice as many screws as you would if you go to the hardware store where they sell it in a little plastic container just a thought a couple of pounds of screws here is 12 bucks a couple of pounds at the Harbor store in that bucket is 25 okay the other thing you're gonna need and I think this is a must-have because this makes it possible for you to cut and measure your drywall it sits right on the edges and allows you to score straight lines with your knife I put that on my must-have list although if you're a contractor you're probably going we don't do that where I'm from we just take out our knife take our measuring tape hold the knife to the side of the tape find the edge of the drywall and use my finger as a guide right and you cut like that I get it I don't suggest a homeowner doing some drywall work on the weekend is going to be very proficient with this technique so do yourself a favor and get yourself a square because that will help you immensely and if you want to see how that is used we do have a video outlining all the details of how to use that tool and all the options available we'll put a card up here or the link in the description as well you can go and check that one out now that takes us to a place where now we have our drywall installed almost one other thing I'm going to suggest is some kind of foot pedal because when you're doing drywall we put the ceilings on first and then we hang the second sheet nice and snug up against the ceiling and then we put the bottom sheet on and if you're in most places in the world the second sheet of drywall even after its installed has a bit of a gap so you put this underneath that drywall like a foot pedal and you can step on it and lift your sheet up nice and snug this kind of a snug joint right here allows you to have a nice easy finish if there's a huge gap it adds an extra step adds extra material adds extra time so for five bucks you can have this lift your drywall it also acts as a rasp so when you cut your drywall you can clean your edges up if necessary kind of a handy tool to have now that leads us to taping and then we're gonna be done with the must-haves in just a moment paper tape if you have paper tape you can tape anything inside corners outside corners but joints factory joints you can do anything with this stuff okay you got a half paper tape you also are going to need a four inch knife because that's how you apply the tape that's how you do your corners that's how you apply your mud on all your inside corners okay and then you're gonna need one of these a ten inch by four inch straight blade not the curved ones straight okay and if you want to watch our video series on how to tape you can also click that link check it out in the description below but we got a taping series set aside for you to show you my system for homeowners for taping which is foolproof it's not like what you've seen on tv i don't use really weird tools these two ana hawk this little flat piece of aluminum pan if you have these three tools you can tape like a pro I'll show you how in the other video now now that we've got the ability to measure and cut and install and tape Wow that's everything you need to know the only thing that's left is sanding still a big fan of the radius 360 I have it on my extension pole okay so nice and simple nice round head it's got a spongy core and this will do a nice job of finishing and changing the texture of the mud to be very similar to the paper so after you have primed you don't see the difference and then when you paint your walls will look amazing now moving on options that's the must-have what you could have is different tape you can have regular fiberglass tape okay you could have ultra-thin fiberglass tape that's right this is available in a thinner version so when you're taping your butt joints you can now use fiberglass instead of paper if you prefer because fiberglass you can install with a quick set mud and then you can get your second and third coat all in the same day so if you're doing a small space using ultra-thin fiberglass tape on your butt joints allows you to finish the job much quicker they also have fiberglass tape for what areas they also make a mud just for what areas although if you're doing a shower and you're using green drywall board just keep your colors the same green drywall green tape and don't use mud in the shower I always suggest using a cement user use your tile cement when you're taping with this in the shower and then we also have from fibre tape the flexible corner bead this is the cool product because you can just cut off the piece that you need ready for this it has a joint here already made okay and you just fold your corner instant outside corner and it gives you a nice beveled edge right very similar to a metal corner bead in this situation okay now this is kind of cool just to have in the box in case we ever need it right it's that last minute I got to roll the corner bead right here just in case what are your like three feet short or you got a tricky spot you can peel that you can apply the drywall compound stick it in use your four inch knife just press down the edges and then fill in from that Ridge and it's strong enough that you can actually use your metal tools on it and treat it like a metal corner bead that stuff is money in the bank if you ever run into trouble but I'll be honest with you my favorite is right here now this is very similar okay this one also Falls okay the difference is this one folds into a bunch of different angles both directions okay yeah where that tape won't do that it'll only do an inside corner this one does outside corners and now this is an interesting cardboard compound and the backside of this here has got a texture on it so it really holds the mud incredibly well so you can make an inside or an outside corner right that would be an inside corner you just fold it the other way be an outside corner done you could do 45 corners you know like those old houses with the sloped ceiling you can set this up so it'll go here and then on an angle and then what happens is this corner right here beside it actually it fits the corner of the knife okay see that and it's a guide and you can scrape that nice and tight and then when it's dried you'd come from the other side and you get a perfect corner hence the word this is called perfect 90 it's amazing and if you are in creative situations having a box of that around is really really really handy now we got all the verbs done now okay there we go let's talk tape because you don't have to just pull it off the roll and have it hanging around this is a great little two in one applicator for the fiberglass mesh and the way this works is you start here and it's just on the roller and you can just press it into the wall run down to the corner the other thing it does is you can pop this corner up pop the wheel out now watch this remember I showed in another video how to use mesh corner in the tape in the corner sorry all right look at this mess tell me that isn't brilliant done now for everybody out there who is hating on me in that video you can't use mesh in the corner they didn't make this because you can't right the reality is if you're gonna use mesh in a corner you got to use the right mud that takes us to the next product we're gonna show sheetrock 45 huh because I live in Canada and I have sheetrock company all right we also have CGC we have certainteed we have a lot of different drywall manufacturing products out there so the brand name is not as important as the number 45 there are a lot of companies making a 45 minute mud which is rhetorical because this usually takes them longer than that for it to actually dry but if you add some hot water it can be done in 40 minutes if you have well water I can be done in 20 minutes but the point is this that's a quick setting compound it's got a chemical reaction it bonds to the mesh and the drywall incredibly hard all right and it does not tear and crack if you use ultra ultra purpose mud or regular purpose mud or machine mud with that mesh tape you're gonna have a problem but with the 45 it works amazing the other tool you might want to have is this this little gizmo here you can put your paper tape in so that if you're working on a ladder you just set this bad boy in your pocket and you have access to a paper tape you can cut it check it in finish let it go move around grab it again and it's right there ready to go handy dandy okay moving along things you might want other than a metal corner I grabbed this from the drywall's store the other day and what this is is an inside corner intersection okay and they make the pieces just like the metal corner beat out of plastic and they they join together kind of like Lego it's awesome so you can stick these on the wall and have perfect rounded corners okay you don't have to go to the square corner you can go with rounded corners that's an option as well I'm not a big fan of the rounded corners but they do make tools now for putting on the outside so it's a rounded corner outside corner trowel and they make all of these little gizmos here now so you can get really nice finished corners that aren't going to crack when they first came out with rounded corners we've got a lot of tiny little cracks around but nowadays with this little invention here your crack free it's the way to go now when you're installing your metal corners a lot of people use screws which drives me nuts purpose this demonstration I'm going to show you this look here's a screw and here's a drywall corner bead now right no there's a row of holes in a corner B and then there's a rows of exterior holes that's where the fasteners go not down the big holes in the middle all right when you put your corner bead on the first half an inch that you're got there materializes other drywall there's nothing there to fasten to you always use the fasteners on the outside of the bead but the difference between the screw and the nail is when you put the nail on its flat the screw always has a raised head it's not designed for use with the corner bead okay so when you're putting that on you want to go to the store and buy a box of these drywall ringed nails and that is the secret success which means you'll need a hammer but no big deal everybody's owns a hammer and then you just tap that into the framework and you're good to go you won't have any problems next on the list a knife that's right you need a second knife because if you're like me you're gonna lose the first one halfway through the day so I have two of these bad boys okay more options lazy low this is for throwing a line on your wall okay and this is for every time you have a scenario where things aren't square you can drop one of these lines down and have a point on your wall or on your ceiling you can measure from to help make sure that your cuts are perfect now that's the trick to learn but honestly if you're going to be doing a lot of drywall or you just don't like having big gaps everywhere that you got to fill pache by that now if you do have to fill and patch some big gaps or you have damage you can always buy this stuff this is amazing now this is just a fiber fiberglass mesh it's quite thin it's a little bit more a little more dense than the fiberglass tape but this stuff is awesome so you open up a door and you get a puncture in your drywall all you do is add some compound and you can stick this over top of the dent alright if you have an old house with plaster cracks okay then all you do should pull out your kills you spray down the plaster crack add regular drywall compound over top for that once it's dry stick this on top of that and you can tape that in and make your wall brand-new again now while I'm here I should do this next tip you can't just use regular compound over that you want to spray your killed on that brown paper first that'll seal up the paper so that when you put the compound on it it doesn't end up bubbling which is a great point because every once in a while especially when you're new with this drywall game you'll have a weird corner to be triangular or something like that you'll cut it but you won't have it in your mind to cut it upside down and backwards so you're going to install it and you'll be like wow it fits but only if the brown side is down you can screw that in it'll work just fine but after you've installed it spray it with your kills oil spray okay and then you can use the drywall compound over to if you don't it's gonna bubble and peel that brown paper off and you're in for a disaster okay next thing you should have with you this is the wish list as the road as it now remember you can cut everything with this but this makes the job flawless when you're installing drywall you don't get a perfect cut like that using a cutout tool and then sticking it on the wall but this could have to let you install the drywall then cut it out and it looks like that next to that you don't need but you might want is this right here just a little bit from the wall this is awesome it's spring-loaded all right it's also adjustable and has a locking ring to set the depth now these little tabs here don't really fit in these drills very well they do have a tendency to fallen out but this one is made just like a regular drill bit and it locks in place it's also a depth setter so when you screw in your drywall it's the perfect depth every time and how you know that is the perfect depth is just before you put your mud on you take your tool check if you hear any clicking like well they're all done that way your new clicking trust me their screw is not deep enough and you want to have one of these to get his hit another shot that'll take care of that long as you can run over your screws without make a noise you're ready to take the next thing is this clip right here it doesn't look like much but there's soundproofing hat channel that this gets clipped into you screw this to the wall and then you put on your hat channel and this is for sound absorption this helps to eliminate sound transfer from one room to the next and if you want a really good version of it right here the back bar here also has foam on it if you want to learn how to do that again card description check it out the next thing you might want is to go the next step up now you can buy this it's about 80 bucks comes with a cord you can get the three or four hundred dollar version and you can put your battery from your drill on it but really it only has one function installing drywall it's the same thing it's a screw gun it has the same adjustable tip a little different design but it has the same function the other thing that this drill does because it has a little spot down here a little switch so you pull the trigger you flip the switch on and it stays on and the motor runs continually and you put a screw on and until you put pressure on that it doesn't turn right so it's really quick you have it on it's a pistol grip so you're always pushing straight up use your last two fingers here as the trigger I need to set that up and you can just throw a screw on and throw a screw on and just go all day long with this bad boy it speeds up the drywall installation process by about three times as much when it comes to setting the screws alrighty let me see - one of the tools and tricks to hevener huh yes for mixing your mud let's move this out of the way you're gonna want to have a pail you're gonna want to have one of these mixing paddles mine's filthy but because it sits in water it still makes perfect mud every time and I have one of these slow mixer drills man if I had a dollar every time I saw suppose a pro in television not using one of these to mix their compound this is a heavy-duty slow-moving drill and it will mix compound without making a bloody mess because when you buy it pre-mixed in a box you got to put it in a pail and add a couple cups of water and mix it up that makes it creamy and smooth and it makes the consistency in the texture of such that a reduces sanding it's worth the weight and goal of having this because when it comes time to sand and then do your prime check you're gonna thank me speaking of project you're gonna want to have trouble light grab one of these that's on a 25 foot cord it runs about twelve dollars at the home depot right you throw in a 100 watt light bulb and then you can run around and you can put light from all different angles and checked it for all the imperfections after you've put the primer on because once you've used your primer which that have high solid content the wall should be white and this will cast shadows on anything that's got not perfect then you can just take your 4 inch in your hock and go around do touch-ups all day long and make it all look beautiful now if you don't have a hawk for your mud right you have a couple of options you can take a scrap piece of drywall and you can put your mud on it this is my leftover 45 minute mud nice and hard which is why it doesn't crack when you use it with a match you can work right off of here all right this is little oversized we get the idea or you can just about grab it anything else that you can find around your house throw a little mud on there and you can use it as this you can use that horn around doing your taping it's awesome now we also have one other thing that you are gonna want to have this not a necessary tool but if you're working alone it becomes almost impossible to work without it and then I'm going to show you a revolutionary new product it's going to change your life forever when it comes to drywall installation first bump boom last few things I want to show you this is for wet sanding okay yes you can wet sand drywall the secret here really is this this coarse plastic material in the outside you put this in a pail you can squeeze it like this to get the water out and then you can just rub the wall right and middle to get rid of all of the ridges and then help to work out the scratches and then you flip it around and give the wall a quick wipe and then you wash it and you do the next spot now if you're doing a small repair and a finished basement room or a kitchen you don't want dust everywhere then pick one of these up it's just a few bucks it takes a little bit of getting used to to be really good at it but once you're proficient with a wet sanding it'll change your life because then you won't have to do all the cleanup afterwards and you want to have fine dust leaning on every surface in the house now the other thing is this these little plastic gizmos here are kind of cute I don't know why they made them so bloody orange and over ages but the point is this if you're working alone you can put this underneath your drywall and then carry it okay you just set it down here you lift your drywall set this underneath and you put your hand on top and you can carry your drywall all by yourself this is a lot safer than having it up over your head and then bending down underneath the doorway as you're walking around right just carry it where you're comfortable this is only a few bucks and it might be worth its weight in gold even if you're working with somebody else we did it another video where I showed you how to carry the drywall again if your arms are sore or your got elbow issues this is a great way to just hold everything nice and square reduces a lot of the stress on your joints and your muscles a great little tool to have all right now and of course I'd be remiss if I didn't tell you go rent a drywall lift especially if you're working alone if you're working with two people I still recommend it because it'll cut down your risk of injury and nothing slows a project down faster on the weekend and throwing out your back or tweaking your shoulder feel free to get it it'll cost you 40 bucks a day no big deal it's worth the money because it'll speed up the installation it'll help make it flawless and put everything right where you want and you're not going to end up falling off a ladder or throwing out your back okay definitely worth it by the time you're done installing your ceilings the old-fashioned way climb a platter and holding over your head most guys I know they don't do it on a regular basis are already exhausted and ready to take a nap so if you're gonna do your ceilings and have a nice successful productive day rent the tool and then take it back at the end of the day when you're done it's worth its weight in gold now I'm gonna show you the revolutionary product that's in this box bump bump bump and I'm gonna install it so you'll know how to use it too because once you've seen this you're never gonna go back to what you used to do so here's my new product and here is a typical drywall exhaust area okay I've got my forced air coming through the wall instead of the floor because I love doing that because it blows hot air across a floor instead of up to the ceiling seems to make a lot more sense to me and I've got a product here that traditionally you would just buy a plastic or metal floor great stick it in the wall or one of those white plastic rolls and screw it on and they all look like dirt well the folks at area vent have invented this this thing is freaking awesome now what I'm going to do is I'm going to install this then I'm gonna open up these dampers to let the air through and then this is here gets installed as a decorative finish and it snaps into place when you do it right okay there we go and what what you can do is you can actually paint all of this right so once this is in place you can have all of this painted and that's invisible to the naked eye here we go it fits in just like that now I knew that I was going to be using this so I actually framed this whole thing out so that I could install you try doing this with drywall screws you will drive yourself crazy because this is of a thicker gauge steel and you're not going to bend that into the wall so blue-ringed nails are an absolute necessity in this situation don't try to cheat with screws it'll pick the drywalling process an absolutely nightmare just the whole wall will be covered in ridges but if you use the nails you can do this with a couple passes of a four inch knife just demonstrate this in a second all right there's my knife it's my premix Ludd okay here we go now I am not using not carry I probably should be [Music] [Music] okay I'm go know when that is dry I'll be able to come by with another coat smooth all that out and then if you paint with a sprayer you can spray all of that and leave this on the ground and spray it as well if you don't you can just install it and then hit it with the roller now if you're using a really wild color you might want to roll this separately and hit all these other sides but here we go we just stick this in boom there we go he'd been now how sexy is that hey it's Jeff from home renovation and you know our YouTube channel is generally designed to give people lots of ideas tips tricks advice construction technologies and how did the renovations at home but today we're kicking it a little bit old-school we were gonna go back and I'm taking care of the drywall taping today doing corners inside outside first second coats we're gonna go through the whole process as I tape through this room and I'm gonna show you how to do it with some basic tools we're gonna go back to just the old fashioned I've got my Hawk I've got a four by ten knife I got my four inch I've got my kill spray I got a knife and a paper tape and a drill that's it if you have this well plus the bench if you've got this set up you can tape like a pro and we're gonna show you how so let's just get right into it so the first step you've got when you're taking care of your drywall job is your preparation it's it's a necessary evil because you want to make sure you've gone through the whole room taking care of all the issues because a lot of the repairs you're gonna want to do before you get started are going to create dust and dirt and crap falling around and you don't want that falling into your drywall compound or what I call it mud you don't want to fallen into your mud in the wall after you put it on there so that just makes a mess so what you're looking for is to take your four inch knife or you're running around your screws as long as it makes that nice scratching sound you're good I got a fine one here this wrong oh there it is you can hear that so even though we have a dimple or set on our screw gun that's gonna happen occasionally if the screws going in on an angle okay it's probably my son he always puts the screws in in an angle just give a little bit of a tight now make sure you don't have any contact anymore the other thing you want to look for is certain areas like I remember when we were screwing this drywall on the wood backing only comes out to here and so you know this screw is embedded this screw isn't but the best way to get a screw out is to get it spinning and then push the screw head to the side so the threads will grab the drywall and it'll go back out a little bit lynnie dozen I could write so we take the end of this knife here and we make a dent whenever you have an imperfection in a wall you want to create it then because ident can be filled right here's another one here's another one this is all part of the prep right all right let's get up here now you want to check your corner you don't want to be hitting any drywall when you're running down the wall that's don't that nice and clean because then your metal just going to stick nice and tight against the wall if you have bumps and raised sections it's going to cause an issue I got some down there all right so this is going to be an outside corner and if you have a little tour paper here on the outside corner it's not an issue but if you have torn paper somewhere else or if your drywall will get installed upside down and then those home orders that happens sometimes you measure and you don't think properly so you have this huge amount of brown paper face showing right you can't apply a drywall compound on that so we have a trick with my favorite products in the world just an oil-based aerosol primer all right and what that does is it creates a bit of a moisture lock to protect that brown paper from the compound while it's drying there we go done five minutes that'll be dry you can put compound over top of that and you're gonna have no problem at all worth its weight in gold so once you know that all your screws are sunk properly your corners are good your torn paper issues are dealt with any imperfections or dented and ready for you filled the only other thing you want to double-check make sure you have enough screws in the drywall sheet a lot of times when you're putting in drywall you know you get moving ahead so fast you'll miss the screw here there are a whole row make sure it's all done because once you pull out the taping tools you're not going to have the drill on you anymore and you just don't want to go backwards in time so make sure you walk through the room get everything prepped now it's time to blow up the pail of mud let's talk about mud for a second all right so drywall compound is a it's an interesting product because there's different companies that manufacture these products in different areas in both countries anywhere you go this is called machine mud our company is CGC that we have in this area they make a whole line of sheetrock products and it doesn't really matter where you live you're gonna have different companies selling the same product but the important issue here is down here so to answer all the questions we've been getting if you have a lightweight all-purpose right ready-mixed compound that's what you're looking to buy it doesn't matter what the name is or how they marketed and brand it that's the product so we have three or four maybe five different drywall compounds available on the market that are lightweight ready mixed and so it doesn't really matter which one you use the reality is every single one of them has one thing in common even though it says ready mixed it's not ready to be applied to the wall okay you still have to put in a pail and have a couple cups of water and mix it up and we're going to get into that process a little bit later to show you about it but I've just enough mud left over my pail right now that I can finish taping this so we're gonna do that then we're going to show you how to put on your corners we're going to show you how to mix the special quick drying compound to fill all your corners then we're gonna show you how to mix your mud and set up another pail of that and do a second coat on the whole room stay with us we got a lot to cover and hopefully we'll be able to help teach you something you have a little bit more very important when you're working with drywall tools and compound keep your stuff clean I mix this drywall a couple of days ago and what I do is I take my sponge and actually wipe the edges in them and knock it all down and keep it nice and moist and not crusty because the chunks are what's gonna get you on a job like this once it starts drying out and getting chunky it's no longer drywall compound it's just a mess you should throw it out okay so we're gonna set the tape and the drywall now there's really only a couple things you need to know first and you want to apply your mud now Wow we've seen guys showing techniques like throwing all of this mud on the wall exists right holy cow that's just ridiculous we're gonna spend all day long putting on taking it off all right put your mud on your knife hold it sideways all right that's why you put drywall mud on the walls right there you don't make a mess it's not going on the floor there's no more there those you actually need okay you can go both directions off the side of the knife and then you just lightly flatten that out yes there we go so we're just gonna set the paper in here if you want to know where the middle of the joint is you can go like this you can feel it right press the middle of there lightly press it in not too hard here okay that's for the homeowners this is a great little system to help keep you in line because you don't want to end up taping off a line like that you basically are gonna set the tape with the four inch knife now by pressing it in okay and you can see your that it's dry you cover the tape with a little bit of mud and then take it right back off again all right that makes it wet and you just to stop if you keep playing with this it actually starts to absorb enough moisture it gets wrinkled and it stretches it's gonna make a mess on you okay so the secret here is to work quickly press the extra mud compound up from underneath get it wet take the extra off and the reason you want to have your wet tape wet it on the wall is because what tape doesn't bubble if you don't get it wet before or after it's gonna bubble on you so this is the secret to a nice tape job now I know guys it'll wet their tape in a little pale before they put it on the wall that drives me crazy because then it's already getting Brinkley the whole time you're working with it I find this is a great way to do it because it goes on dry you can get it done quickly before it goes wrinkly and you're not pulling off the wall and stretching it up and cutting it over and over and over again so when process for taping is to do all of my flats and that means I've got a factory joint with a factory joint or small sections like this right this is not a factory joint but I'm gonna put an outside corner be an inside corner it's gonna get covered up so well it's not really an issue but I want to make sure that it's not going to crack so we're just gonna apply some compound I always work with your hock like this it becomes a drip tray as well that's something you're never gonna have when you work with that little pan I hate those things there's people that talk about the difference between using the pan and using a hock and what the benefit is one wrist of the other so the reality is hock holds more mud helps keep your site clean it helps keep you clean I find guys that work with those pans and forever covered in mud and filthy job sites I've always got the drippings everywhere if you're doing a good job with your taping you should be able to walk away as clean as you started so when you're working keep your tools clean keep the mud off the edges always working it back into the middle so that it doesn't start to dry out on you okay can we take in our paper tape and this stuff comes creased this has a crease line in it okay so it's almost it's ready to fold so what I do is I take a quick look at my room and I know I appreciated dry walls four feet so I go four feet eight feet same as the other corner look I got a sealing edge there probably enough right there there we go now I got all my inside corners already folded ready to roll sitting on the floor okay and that is sort of speed up the process dramatically every time you go to do some taping you've got to stop and do a crease it will drive you crazy so if using the drywall knife you are gonna find that the best way to use this knife is off the side it's a plane this way so you can load it up with mud and slowly force it out okay I mean like that's it and you wanted his run it out takes a little bit of practice right there's a bit of an art form involved with this but the system is seems simple enough and you're gonna want to fill the bottom part and the top part sometimes the best way to learn how to do this so just sit and watch this over and over and over again now I am not using any pressure this is just flattening out the mud okay getting in those excess out of there I got too much gap there I'm gonna fill that up with mud now we're ready for - no this is my technique throw it all up on the wall it'll hold your tape in place because you can set your Hawk down and you're always gonna have your tape available okay now because it's pre-folded we just stick it in the corner slide it nice and tight all right there we go we get our hot because we're gonna want to have the ability to clean the wrists as we go all right we're gonna set the tape into the mud with a moderate amount of pressure here all right there we go the same thing going back the other way if you do the top going to the left and the bottom going to the right you'll keep your tape from sliding along the wall and if you get a ridge like that just pull it towards you it's great work it into the corner sweet remember in this situation less is more if you put too much compound in behind your tape it takes forever to dry and then you're gonna add days and days of work okay now from just wetting the tape here now just like we did down on the flat putting a little bit on taking it off and this is where edgy I'm actually going to apply a first coat of mud on the ceiling section okay boom catch all those drips with your Hawk there we go nice and clean that's gonna happen alright now now I have mud on the ceiling I want to clean this up so I'm going to use the knife like this with pressure okay and I'm going to gently come along and just flatten out that lead edge same coming back the other way okay so now I have no Ridge on the face I'm gonna take my knife along here and I'm basically getting rid of all the extra mud that's on the bottom side and on the inside of that corner okay now let me replace that in the corner and I'm gonna go gentle pressure just to flatten it out all right there we go and then I'm gonna pull back I always move your tool towards the finish and then one more of it clean there we go that's how you set your mud you've got your tape and you've got your first coat on the ceiling you have no excess mud on the bottom side of that tape so tomorrow when it's dry you can come back and do the bottom and have a nice hard solid surface to press your knife against you don't have a ridge over here there's nothing to scrape nothing to sanding between coats that is a perfect application here we go yeah when your corners intersect it doesn't matter you still want to put a full complement of mud on the corner off the side of the knife right over top of the flats there from before remember this is a factory edge so it actually has a dip so it's nice to fill that before you do your corner makes it a little bit straighter [Music] just flatten it out if you see dry sections of the wall where there's no mud put the compound in there and fill it up don't leave it where the heavy units fill those gaps with the compound okay the gaps are really big you can mix up a little bit about 45-minute mud and you can fill all your gaps in advance we actually did a video on that I should probably put that in the description below just to help people out in case you need that now here we go so I'm gonna put this tape up in the corner but I don't want a rough edge like that it's gonna hold my knife err all right tear that up nice and square now it's ready to be embedded up there there we go shut all the way down to the bottom hold the knife and just tear off paper yeah we're gonna start a couple inches from the top first in that paper in it's okay and then I'm gonna press it up that'll keep it from sliding dinner okay I'm just putting him that little bit of pressure in that corner there help set that tape I always want to finish nice and clean now I mean another wall there there we go gonna help work the tape into the corner a little bit you know I hope to avoid tears all right if there's a wrinkle put your nation like that if it's if it's bubbling like that if it's not if it's not sticking down you can always just come back with your night horse little mutt in there all right get good contact once it's set get it wet not actually running it's a great way to remember it you know your tape is wet when it hits the wall it won't bubble bubbling tape is the number one problem that you're gonna face in this business because the next thing you come back it bubbled up it's hollow it's in behind there you have to cut the tape out you have to reattach it yeah you lose a whole day of production watching that dry just maddening and that's if you're lucky sometimes you won't see the bubble until the second or the third day depending on the lady in the room and you're really in trouble because now you're ready to stand and Brian can you got to go back to the beginning on that joint all right sounds like my boy now just like on the ceiling I'm going to take compound and we're gonna finish one side I usually do the left side first just a habit no real reason for it okay and then I'm going to start here then I'm gonna work my way back to the finish okay I'm gonna set this in the corner create a nice groove clean out all the excess on the other side run it back there we go no need to sand between coats something to clean up nice and clean let's do No [Music] okay so this is the area where we have the torn paper and that's dry now [Music] [Music] beautiful this is all the situations where I have a something that didn't get dented properly there there's no way you can pull a nice unless your fill in the hall right beautiful [Music] put your knife corner right in the middle find that edge right there here we go clean that edge to have a truly professional drywall job means time inpatient when you're setting the table this is the point where you make or break your entire job too much mud you've got to be filling in stretching not enough mind you're gonna have things bubbling it's a nice combination of filling it and not having too much there and creating nice smooth lines I only need to put one more coat of mud on this inside corner and it is finished money in the background all right now quick recap we've done our flats we've done our inside corners and we filled one side of the inside corners which is important because there's mud in behind the joint and there's a lot of fill and that usually takes a little extra time to dry so I would suggest after you're done for the day put on the fan put in the meantime now we got to take care of our screws so again we're gonna use that off the side of the knife approach I'm going to demonstrate this nice and casually here for you so you're gonna keep this down here pressed against the wall and you're slowly gonna release the mud going up so you're filling a hole you're gonna push it into the hole this way and then you're gonna hold your knife tight to the wall and pull it down that way all right you know push it in one motion really all right then you get good at this you can make really quick work of a room and then you want to do the bottom as well now don't go all the way down to the bottom of the floor because the last row screws should be where your baseboards are gonna go and you don't really need to worry about filling those and a rug screw there yeah okay ah well now that we've got the screws filled it's time to put on all of her outside quarters and then we're gonna mix the other 45-minute mud we'll show you that whole process fill those corners and then we'll mix the regular mud and show you how to do that as well and then we're gonna do a topcoat on all of those outside corners because it dries so fast you can get two coats in about an hour see now that all the joints are taped and the screws are all filled we're gonna move on to the outside corners and all you want to do here is just get a measurement one side to the other and this is a measuring technique that I use I extend the tape and then I run it over to the corner and it's 74 and 1/8 and that's when I go like this because I'm totally if you're anything like me right about the time that you take a measurement somebody calls you to ask you a question the phone will ring the dog will bark the bell will ring at the door just do this once write it down and then something happens I still have your measurement later so I found the best way to measure and cut these is just to run your tape inside the bead and then bring your snaps over to the line bring your snips over the line give that B to cut just that hold this so it doesn't bend over on you and start it a little bit below the cut and angle up towards it just that couple of degrees makes all the difference in the world a perfect world they would send these 85 degrees instead of 90 I don't know why but I love to just give them a bit of a squeeze to close them up just a hair so that when I'm putting them installing them helps to establish a little more angle for filling with the mud I'll show you what I mean instead of here you see you have you have room to press it into place right so that helps you to establish where you roll it around this is the most outward point on this surface and on this surface so if I set it right here I could put my knife and you see the shadow and behind it so the idea here is that you want to have a gap right from the corner to the tip of the and that's something you can fill without moving that check the other side see if there's a gap there so you might want to roll it up to create there see that roll it up to create a gap but now that you find that happy place right there in the middle where you can fill both sides to this corner from the wall that's where you want a nail in place now a little bit of experience goes a long way here because I can tell where the right spot is just by looking at it but demonstrating that with a knife vision understanding of what you're looking for you can see that there's two rows of holes here the one in the middle is actually for the drywall compound to go in and actually bond between the wall and the metal the other row is where you want to put your nails we're using the blue-ringed nail here it's a very thin flat head and that is designed so that when you install it it's not in the way of your knife so that it is not causing intersection with the taping knife when you're putting your compound on if you use screws and EE they're going to be sticking out too far and you're gonna go click click click when your fill in your mud you're gonna have a problem on your hands you have to drive the screws too deep you're gonna be bending and twisting the metal causing all kinds issues learn how to use the hammer in the nails and you're gonna be a lot happier with your corners pay very close attention when you put your next bead on that you are running that up and you're exactly the same depth okay you don't want to be too high or too low that's a nasty-looking corner get it right there on the money okay and then nail back here so that if you have to make a minor adjustment you still have a little bit of flexibility before you set the second nail in it's the only secret of putting in corner beads looks like it the rest these up it's time for us to mix our 45 minute compound do a fill coat and this time for second coat so now that all of our metals are on we're gonna do two coats on the metals and our second coat with regular compound on the walls so here's the secret we have our sheet rock 45 we I have warm water in the pail and this house were out in the country so it's also well water so has lots of minerals in it this stuff is gonna dry super fast super super fast so what we're gonna do is I'm gonna mix it I'm gonna use the four inch knife from my Hawk and I'm gonna apply just a fill coat just a couple of inches worth the money now this entire ceiling area here we're gonna add crown molding from here to here which is why it's not taped so I don't need to have a whole lot of mud underneath here I don't want to put too much on here make a mess in my course when you use a four-inch knife as well if I use this knife here I'm just gonna be making a mess of everything it's too big but on the outside corner over here bump bump bomb I'm gonna use this knife to fill a nice six or 8 inch kind of wide swath alright so once I mix this I've got about 10 or 15 minutes tops so I'm gonna just run like the wind and try to get all this on and then we will show you how to do all the second coat on the inside corners and flats and then we're gonna come back and put another coat over top of this within the hour there we go [Music] [Music] they're definitely a little bit runny here [Music] so I would side corners generally speaking we're just filling the gap from here to here but you see in this corner here these are two different pieces and that metal edge there you want to have some tape on there because that's the only place in this whole system that's likely to crack and we use the hook to hold that still so get that tape installed there press nice and tight now we can just some mud on our hawk and we can just travel that down around the corner little sloppy all right one of these things about 45 minutes but when you mix it you want to mix it a little bit loose not too loose that the raining all over you and a little loose especially in the country especially with warm water you want to set up fast but if you don't mix a little loose you won't have enough work at a time to get advantage of it here we go so it's gonna be a little bit sloppy we're not looking for smooth all this bubbling is irrelevant because we are just filling the filling the gaps we put a smooth coat on in a minute as soon as this sets up and hardens we're just trying to reduce the amount of work as far as days that were involved for filling these gaps by filling it all right now okay just want to put it on and because it's loose pulling up helps okay clean the edges they're using this knife you can you can use it two ways you can pull it this way or you can reach down roll your hand under a little bit and pull it up this way it'll help you so you don't have to bend over quite so burning near the ground like I pulled a little too hard so it started off as pretty loose stuff five minutes ago look at this because it was warm water just like putting playdough on the ceiling now that's crazy like I said don't worry about the look at this it's the function that's important the fact that that is filled up that's all no regard just just done so just to recap because I know when we do these types of videos people get a little confused we're using our all-purpose mud for everything and we use the 45-minute might as a supplement to help speed our process up so you can fill all your gaps and cracks you can use it as the first coat on the corner beads just to fill the gap you can even use it to fill your screw holes if you wanted to and that'll save you a little bit of time with the you don't need a third coat on your screw holes if you do it that way but as a rule if you're new at this and you're just learning how mixing everything and doing everything with regular all-purpose compound as a benefit and here's why you can put your lid on it and you can use it again next day when you mix your 45 their clock is ticking it will start off soft like you just saw and then it'll start to stiffen up and then WHAM it just goes rock-hard and there's no saving that for the next day so it's very handy to have that in your repertoire and understanding that you have options if you're in a hurry you're doing repairs that's the great thing as well I just in the habit of using it all the time now it's part of my process because it takes a full day tape most projects we put the paper tape on and on your second day you can do your corner beads do your first code mix another pail of regular compound and then you can do your second coat on everything in the second day and this is just a little way that I've got designed to get a lot of that mud out without getting filthy okay you can squeeze it out and save every drop if you want stuff is almost $20.00 a bag which makes that last handful worth about 50 cents and usually I'm just not in the mood to save 50 cents and get covered in mud so here we go I've got a full pail of mud there this is 8 ounces of water I'm only gonna add about 6 what I want my mud ultra-smooth for my third coat I'll go the full 8 ounces on a box but for the second coat 6 is plenty all right so just squeezing the pail together start nice and low it's going to vibrate a lot if you bring the blade up too high you'll get water splashing everywhere [Music] [Music] to get that back in your pail of water so that nothing goes hard and crunchy so here's our mud it's nice and hard 20 minutes ago I was just finishing the last application on the sewers like play-doh now you can take your knife and just run all these extra ridges off okay create a nice flat surface so we can finish this up here we go now this is our all-purpose compound that is designed for different drywall machines and I love using it all the time remember our goal because we're adding crown molding let's just have a perfect three inches here on the bottom I don't have to go all the way to the top just create a nice little finished coat here and the best thing about the second coat is again it doesn't have to be perfect after second coat all right you have the luxury of coming back one more time to make things perfect now this is how you can get your corners filled up in one afternoon we just put these metals on okay we mixed up to forty-five warm water and within just a few minutes it's rock hard and ready for another coat absolutely amazing right you'll see my program here this is the first coat remember the paper I didn't - but I did put a coat on the ceiling I'm finishing this outside corner and I'm doing the bottom side of the inside corner they don't intersect it's nice to just have a plan so that you're running against something nice and dry remember the way that we did our corners is we clean the edge we went like this and then we came back and did this the first time there's this thing now that's rock hard now I can actually put my knife up against it and use it as an edge it makes a perfect corner a lot of fun here you can use a lot of motor a little bit of mud if you use too much money you'll have pity just see that just run your blame a little bit of pressure okay slime know that oh that's what you're looking for it's better to come back with an extra coat then to try to put too much mud on at one time all right that's perfect now the next time I come in here I'm not going to use a four inch knife on the ceiling I'm going to use a five or six so it goes from here to here and I will do one more nice pull and that'll make this look absolutely perfect there you go you can see the first coat I did this corner yesterday this is nice and dry alright just double-check on your blade around looking for any little bumps that might be left behind I'll go right into the corner and pull your mind away okay you know remember we always want to pull towards the finish way so you're never gonna be perfect when you do that but it's so easy to see it okay that's nice same for this the corner be right use the side of the night get it in there you want this to be a four inch wide blade like your knife is okay you're gonna want to take your knife clean the outside edge put it in here remove that edge and then you're gonna come back and then just pull straight down you'll flatten it into the corner and have a perfect inside 90 all right at that point there's anything left on the other side you want to fuss around right ahead but the important thing is to have a perfect inside corner that's how that's done again hit all your screw hole all right just to make sure every time you pass over a wall you hit the screw holes it takes three coats of regular mud or one coat of 45 and one go to finish now we'll get down off the ladder and we'll show you the rest of the joint okay so I'm just gonna finish the inside corner here real quick and you can be even a little bit sloppy here if you want rice flatten it out the important thing is to have more mud than you need okay you don't have to be perfect there we go now I just made a huge mess here for you I'll show you how to fix that groove that it okay now there's something to fill when I come back with the night pressure I'll clean the outside now I'm just gonna run up the middle and almost do that behind the whole thing it will close all the gap up just hit it a second time whoops there we go that's about as perfect as you're gonna get except right there okay now you'll see that here you have your your paper embedded in the mud you can see that we had a little bit of a thin finish coat over top of it just to keep it nice and wet there's absolutely no bubbles every time never see a bubble on my job site because I always put mud on my tape now again get a nice trowel fall okay it's not gonna fall off about a 30 in both directions your snowplow II here you're working against gravity so you pushing it up and over at the same time okay raise your hand that's lots of month there's a lot more than you need and here's why you want to take your trowel put pressure on the body just like I do with a four inch plate and you want to run that nice and tight cuz what we're trying to do is fill from here to here where the tapered edge is do it on the top as well you don't want to make the wall any thicker yeah medium pressure straight across the middle you're filling the gap okay any lines just go right out to the corner latinum in again nice it's all there is the second coat second coat is actually really quick and simple if you can do the tape joint on your job you can do the finish coats second third quarter basically the same it's basically just filling in all the voids this wall here is probably gonna need one more thin coat like I said we'll add a little bit more water in the mud to loosen it up even thinner so that when we have to sand there's not much work to it just make sure that when you were doing your second coat you find all your joints you hid all your screws all your corners and any imperfections around your electrical boxes where you cut in you make sure you repair those while you're at it don't get lazy and leave it to later correct all right I'm just gonna finish getting this done in a hurry here now we have a new addition to our company we have a new website now and I'm gonna encourage everybody to pop over there the link is in the description we have theirs we've been working feverishly behind the scenes on affiliate links so that you guys can get access to products and tools and we're starting to work with different companies to get better deals for you we're really excited about that all right so you asked for it so here it is this video is all about the tools that I use for getting a professional paint job and we're not going to just talk about what the basic setup is it's all the different details all the tricks and tips that I've got to give you and then at the end of the video I'm also going to show you how to wash your paint gear because if you can wash your brush and get your rollers nice and clean you can use them over and over and over and over again and a seven dollar roller sleeve all of a sudden is a good investment not just a real big expense stay tuned we're gonna save you a ton of money and we're also going to show you the link so you can buy all this stuff and get a good little deal so my paint gear basically covers a few different areas it covers preparation it covers application it covers cleaning but it also covers selection the first thing you need to have if you're going to be painting is options you need a color deck so whatever company is selling paint near you that's selling a good quality paint whether it's deluxe which I love or Benjamin Moore or Sherwin Williams wherever you can go get professional quality paints had a decent price go there set up a cash account okay and you can get a good deal on your paint they'll give you 20 or 30 percent off and they'll give you a fan deck they'll give you all of their colors you don't have to stand there in front of that little wall and they have all these little paint chips they'll give you the whole thing you can come home you can check it up against your fabrics and your flooring and everything else you can take this shopping when you're doing selections okay get a fan deck of the company you're gonna deal with where you get your discount and you'll save a ton of money okay so the next thing we're going to talk about is the preparation now if you're a fan of this channel and you've been watching our videos you've seen some of my tricks before but my favorite preparation techniques are all about the hawk and the four inch knife okay now this four inch knife has a cool little feature in it it has a steel handle on the end and the purpose of this is so that you can dent the wall to create a void that can be filled with the mud that you're gonna mix from pom-pom find a mud with a hardener this is the company I use sheetrock 45 there are other companies making other mixes 520's 45s the secret is in the number that setting number is basically if you add cold water take some 45 minutes for it to set and Harden so that you can sand it okay that is a secret to painting in your house because if you use general-purpose mud the dents that you fill are going to shrink when they dry then you'll have to do it a second application you'll notice and on my table here there's no such thing as dry decks put it on pink and it dries white that's a waste of time okay this sheet rock 45 goes on beige and it dries white it's not a fancy gimmick it's just a quality product and it does not shrink when it dries so you can apply that when by the time you're done patching all your holes in your room the other that you break back where you started and you can put these tools away and pull out your little sanding sponge all right now there's a lot of different spinning sponges in the world and the point isn't to sell a sponge here if I tell you to get one that has this angle here you want an angled edge here's why when you're sanding your corners you want to put that angled edge in the corner all right I've got to sand like this don't put it flat in and go up and down okay you'll end up getting a groove here and if it's not angled you'll get a groove on the other side guess what you're right back to patching again so get the angled brush and you turn it a little bit while you're sanding you no guarantee you'll never put a groove in your mud all right so once you've got it sanded on all the patches you're gonna want to stay in between coats so you're gonna want to sand your wall before you prime if it's new construction if it's an existing wall you want to sand your wall before you change your first coat of paint what I suggest is the radius 360 has these velcro pads okay now this is 150 grit you can also get 220 it's really up to you but you stick it on and after you go to the races works really well with my Sherlock Paul this one had a lot of miles put on it but you'll see the quick lock done right and you can sand this kind of head never rolls over it won't like the traditional square ones or rectangle ones this round one will never roll you can't yeah you can almost make it turn over if you try really hard but you can sand blindfold it all day long it's soft in the corners even all right get yourself one of these you're gonna love me for it now along with your stick you're gonna get this extension now this is a universal thread works for the 360 it also works for paintbrushes we'll talk more about that in a minute now when you get your paint you're gonna need to open your can current that's why I suggest everybody should have a 5 in 1 this is one of the most versatile tools you'll have in your arsenal and you can stick it in your back pocket and you're gonna have a screwdriver you're gonna have a scraper you're gonna have the ability to do the denting for your finishing and you're going to be able to clean the roller with this thing later show you that you also use the side here to open your lids okay you're gonna want to hit north south east and west here pop the lid off you're good to go this isn't gonna cause damage to anything and you can also use it to hammer it back down the lid is on securely your paint won't dry over all right if you watch me work you'll know that generally I pour paint out of the can into a tray and I use this in my cutting but what if you only bought a little quart and your can't get your brush into the court for trim paint smaller projects you can get the handy pail all right now this thing here is a plastic with a rubber top and you can get these three little liners now watch this huh how awesome is that there's a magnet built-in that grabs the metal on the brush your brush doesn't sink too far deep into the bank in alright and it won't fall out and make a mess no this is ergonomic design you put your hand here it's nice and easy you're not holding a wire you're not going to get cramps in your hand if I'm painting all day long with a cut-in brush like doing the whole house I use the handy pail because I can work this all day long it's a lot more convenient than doing this which is how I hold my can grant I got a finger on the wire there got a finger in it I get crimps after a couple hours of this you're done but this is awesome now keep your brush from getting full of paint right up to the metal so it's a little easier managed that way of course no matter what you do you need a knife all right this is phenomenal because you can take the blade out like this you get paint on a window have a fresh blade you can actually scrape that off it's a flexible blade so you can take off stickers and stuff like that you can cut back cocking always good to have a sharp knife you might want to have a little bit of tape with you I'm just saying I don't use a lot of tape in most of my situations but every once in a while I'll have a live edge countertop or I'll have something that's really important I don't want to get any paint on that I don't want to have to scratch off later so I do cover it in tape but it's very rare yeah you're gonna want to have a mini roller all right little 4 or 6 inch er I like the long handle because if I'm using a mini roller and a lot of cases I'll be using it up against the corner of a high visibility area so I can texture my brush line right I don't want to use the big roller and get right in there these little mini fillers here if you roll them right up into the corner they're not gonna scratch up the wall for the traditional larger rollers will so this is really handy if you are worried about the details making sure you don't have any brush lines you can also use this in conjunction with the sleeve to do all your patching and priming on the walls it's a lot faster than a brush and it makes sure you don't put too much paint on the walls all right now before we show you the workhorse my rig for my tray let me get this out of here I'm gonna show you a paint brush option this is a paint brush option it's called the gooseneck okay and I've got my attachment threaded in there that I showed you earlier and this can go on my paint stick and my paint stick comes two to four-foot I've also got a four to eight and I got an 8 to 16 this gives me the ability to go like this I can load it up paint in my brush in my handy pail or my can I can take it out I can snap it on and I can paint really really far away okay I can paint like this so when I'm standing at the top of the stairs and I've got my railing and I'm looking over the stairwell I can take one of my poles load up my paintbrush and I can stick it 10 12 14 feet away and I can paint these lines from inside the brush perfectly up against the ceiling like that that is worth the money now here's the other feature if you're in an awkward place you've got a banister this is why it's called the gooseneck okay huh now I can be standing here and they can reach over top or something and I can set my brush into that line and I can cut an edge that flexibility you'll never know when you're gonna need it but when you need it I'm telling you it's worth the investment have that in your arsenal all right the gooseneck brush okay then we also have this lovely gizmo now there are situations like up against a trim if you're painting a room and the trim is good and you're not going to paint the trim what you can do is you can use this this is just a straight line it's a guide you can stick that up against the door trim or window trim and then you can paint your wall right up against it let's see how did not bad nice clean line it's a lot faster than taping okay so just having one of these these are also really good for painting trim up against the carpets okay you stick that down there under the floor and then you roll it forward to protect all the carpet then you can paint your trim nice and low all right I need just pull it out have a sponge in a pail handy keep it clean as you go all right this is not something you want to have take down with painter stops working speaking of sponges this is a special sponge made for wet sanding now in some situations when you're working as a painter you're going to be in someone's finished home you're doing a touch-up a callback or you're working in your own home and let's say you're in a beautiful open-concept house and you're just changing the paint on your hand rail and you made a mistake you dinged a wall you have to do a touch-up but you don't want to be sanding drywall dust in a finished space with all your China and everything else here's the secret you do your mud get your patching done when you're done you put this in the pail you bring it out and you take the rough side on them and you can sand and then at the end you just do one pass with this side to clean all the dirt and crap off the wall and it leaves it perfectly smooth give it about 20 minutes to dry again and then you can go back and do a primer a little roller and then boom you're done this is worth money in the bank we've got everything done here we're going to talk about cleaning in just a second but let's talk about the paint rig that I like to work with okay I'll bring this right up here this is a sim astray it's a really rigid jumbo tray I can put 3/4 to about 80% of a gallon of paint in this tray and that leaves me about an inch and a half or so in the can and for me that's a perfect blend of cutting and rolling now I use the Sherlock stick and the Wooster handle because they are designed to work together and then I use a microfiber sleeve now I like a 15 mil this is 3/8 or 1/2 inch nap down in the United States it's really good it holds a lot of paint and I can do two or three rollers wide on the second coat and it's just really super speedy now they make them bigger and they make them double wide yeah and I've got all these guys commenting oh we like to put our paint in a pail with a grid but here's the problem every time you pour paint you are wasting it if you pour it into a pail right and you put in your screen every time you're working with that you're mixing air and you have to dunk your roller into the pail and then clean it off this is so much more efficient okay that screen may be quick and easy for you guys but I'm telling you if you had this you would switch because this handle here sits on the tray and this part here just locks in over top of all of that alright and now I got all the weight right here of a full gallon of paint and I can walk around all over my job site with no spills no mess no fuss yeah this little handle also rests my cage it's brilliant alright so if you want to work with no fatigue you don't want to be bending down and picking up and carrying that trail overall precariously holding your handle at the same time this is a solution it's just a few bucks it's a piece of plastic but it works this is what I like to use I also like to use tray liners okay they come the same size of the Jumbo tray use the liner when you're done you throw it in the garbage you don't have to worry about constantly cleaning your tray think I've covered all the information needs to cover both the tools that I use now we're going to show you how to clean your rig because at the end today if you can't clean your gear you're gonna be buying new brushes all the time now this brush here man I'll tell ya I've had this for almost a year I use it almost every day it's amazing clean it right it'll last your lifetime this cage here I've been using this one for about 2 or 3 years I think the sleeve this is the seventh time I've painted a wall with this one sleeve they will last a long time that means it's costing me $1 to paint a room hmm $7 sleeve costs $1 to paint the room it's not even close to being done I'll use it until it starts leaving lint on the wall but this thing here just keeps on going and going and going so yeah if you know what's going on with my channel you know I'm in the middle of a huge kitchen renovation I set up a temporary kitchen and I always do that with a laundry sink and that's because it gives me a great place to clean my gear inside so let's go take care of this will show you all my tools for doing that one more thing before we go and wash our gear I'm gonna show you a secret because this is really really valuable in a lot of situations I know a lot of people when they're done with their paint here they just wash it but you really got to be careful that you keep the can around with a little extra paint in it so if you set your set your cage on your pink you can like this you take your 501 it is exactly perfect radius for just a little bit wider than the rule okay and you can scrape all of that paint off take three passes and be done with it okay what you're gonna find is there is about a quarter the quarter of a quart it's enough paint to do all the touch-ups they're ever gonna need right there of course if you have more leftover in your tray we're gonna just this this you can release that now watch this technique because when you use them liners the whole thing can fall out and make a heck of a mess hold it together like this with your finger on the liner okay so contact and contact and do a quick pour right back in the can alright stop the dripping now we're ready to wash up all right so welcome to my temporary kitchen while we're renovating our kitchen now if you haven't seen the video on this subject yet we're gonna put the link up here a little card feel free to click and watch that because if you're doing a major renovation in your home and you want to have a temporary kitchen this is perfect and the reason for it is the laundry sink this doubles as a workstation as well as a food prep area so I highly recommend it this is years of experience culminated in six linear feet of pure wonder now we are gonna go talk about washing the gear we got rollers and we got brushes and we got trays now here's the best part about this okay I have a tray liner Oh trains washed if you don't use the tray liner here's the secret throw this in the bottom of the sink alright turn on the hot water and let it run for about five minutes and the paint that's stuck and dried on to the bottom of that tray will peel right off like it's like a saran wrap sheet okay the trays are made out of oil-based products and the paints are latex so they don't actually bond it just dries in place so if you add hot water to it the water will actually get underneath it and lift it right off and then piece the cake after a few minutes you just empty the water and you can grab a corner and peel it like a sheet you'll love it now for us we've got two roller sleeves here I'm gonna show you two different options okay so one of the reasons this stick looks all beat up the garbages because I do this when I wanted to get the sleeve off all right that is an effective technique to remove a sleeve from a booster tray so the first thing we're gonna do is we're gonna wash our roller cage because we don't want mountains of paint building up on these okay because I think it's really difficult to get the Sneasel enough very important that you get these two ends incredibly clean right now I don't care if a little paint dries up inside the cage but just make sure that the edges are all cleaned up [Music] there we go the outside here as well because this isn't this is a spot where paint builds up it'll break off when you're loading your tray and then you'll have a chunk in your paint then you go as long as this spins freely you're good to go if it doesn't you might need to take your 501 and get right in this little groove in here and clean dried paint out okay make sure that this spins freely hang it off the side of the year your sink here okay now this roller we actually scraped clean just to get the extra paint over what we're gonna do this time we're going to take the same tool so I've got my roller sleeve set up here and it's standing on end and I've got a fountain basically happening now if I was I'll leave this running long enough maybe 20-30 minutes from now it would actually be all clean but the help speed the process up we're gonna take this I'm going to use a lot of force this time and really scrape it all right so we're gonna help speed this process up we're gonna just get all that extra cleanup great handle I'll do that a few times okay now I also want to clean out inside just use your fingers sometimes a little bit of paint fungals up in there now we're gonna just pull through my fingers and clean as I roll now at this point I'm gonna say that it's probably 80% clean already now if I set it up and I turn on the water it'll cascade over and it'll just slowly watch all of that paint gravity is your friend here and if we gave that five or six minutes you can see all the paint at the bottom escaping it's just being pushed out right so that's one technique and if you've got time and you're not concerned about wasting water that works great if you are concerned about wasting water and you can work this with your 5:1 the whole time you're doing this okay there you go you know I'm just gonna load this up with water here real quick kinda like eating corn on the cob right okay so that's done now you put it back on your cage go find yourself a two-by-four go outside lay it on the ground put your paint stick bag on and roll this down the 2x4 and you'll end up getting rid of all the water and you're actually ready to paint right away or you can go and pick up one of these so this is a paint spinner and basically the idea is to stick your roll around there okay release the lock mechanism right this is kind of like an old-fashioned drill actually brand new the other option you have of course when you're dealing with this mess same thing scrape the paint out put it on the spinner and soak it down like a corn on the cob alright don't leave it in the bottom and just do this probably two or three times nearly oh that's looking really good here we go brand-new the spinner also is an attachment you can put your paintbrushes in it okay and it does exactly the same thing with the paintbrush but it's not really necessary for washing a paintbrush let's just talk about this for a second Washington paintbrush it's actually an art because when you're working you're trying not to let paint get all the way up to the top okay which is why it's nice to have a pail of the magnet on it that holds the paintbrush this direction or you leave it in your paint can sitting straight up try to avoid leaving it across the top because then paint will end up running inside the brush when you're washing you don't want to wash it upside down you want to wash it in the same direction you're carrying it so now we have a different tool this tool here is got a bit of a comb on it and you can work that into the bristles and this is really nice if you've been using it for a while and you want to get some of that cooped up acrylic out of the inside maybe isn't it harden up a little bit okay so this tool is really effective it also has that 501 circle on it but it's not as strong as the five m12 steel so I recommend using the five one what we're gonna do now is we're gonna hold the brush down and I'm gonna work Brussels with my thumb learn a bit of an angle just to work any of the dried up paint off the edge okay just a little bit of contact a little bit of contrast goes a long way here because when we're dealing with the latex paint we're dealing with the acrylic build up that's the really big issue here the paint itself comes out but the acrylic is but the problem is now that may look clean okay but here's what we do we actually massage it this way now forcing that Pino and as long as there's paint coming out in that water if you want to keep going at it so if you have a lot of paint inside your best to do this this forces the water up to mix the paint and then you can flatten it out like this and rinse it all off the bristles as it as it comes up to the surface load it up my brush again so you can see just dabbing it in the bottom okay we'll take all that extra paint and just massaging it okay the truth is the last time I was doing that I just didn't have a lot of paint on that yet that's that simulates more what it's like when you're been painting for an hour okay you know it looks pretty clean right here's how you can check you know like this Oh see all that paint coming out it's not done yet okay so we're gonna keep on doing this for a little bit working massaging massaging getting some water down there all right we want to get all that paint out all right I like this no paints come in so now we know we got the acrylic on the paint so is one step left and that is this take your dish soap and pour a bead right down the middle of that okay now we're just gonna work the Brussels into your palm this is gonna fill that brush full of soap so now we're gonna wash it one more time but this time we're gonna watch the soap over just to guarantee that all that acrylic is gone this brush will work like is brand new for years and years and years if you keep it nice and clean and that means you got to get rid of the acrylic if you let the acrylic build up inside the base right now all these bristles are bound right here but if you let the acrylic build up it goes like this and this and this and this and then you lose flexibility you can't paint with two inches of brush okay just see if there's any soap left in here what's good now and now we're gonna dry it okay put your hands together and your spoon form your bristles and then you can let that dry and it's brand new again loving it now one more thing I'm gonna mention if you were working I try to wash your brush every hour okay if you don't you're gonna get this build up a gunk acrylic on the edge you can't get a wire brush and you can actually wire brush the acrylic out of your brush okay this will not hurt your brush to use a wire brush on it and that'll clean all the acrylic off and leave it looking brand new again now if you take those steps you're going to have tools and equipment that actually get better for you in time than they are right out of the box welcome back to my kitchen renovation we've got a beautiful sunny morning here so don't mind me I'm just trying to get my quick-set mud ready to go here when I have this much sunshine and beaming through a window I'd take advantage of it for my friend check now I'm just running around with this thing last night you know before I did my first coat of paint then I came down here this morning and lo and behold the sunshine has revealed all kinds of sins on my wall that sounds almost poetic done here we go so this is just 45 minute compound I'm just using cold water so I have a few minutes to actually work with it what we're gonna talks about today is when you're finishing your drywall and going into paint there's different steps of construction so that you can get a flawless finish here we go Wow it's just amazing what you can see and this is what drives you crazy because at some point down the road after you're all finished paint you're gonna be sitting here and the light is gonna be just you know February when the Sun is low in the sky that's when you're gonna see all these little minor scratches and imperfections it doesn't look like much but there's nothing like sitting on a couch watching TV and good oh my lord look how horrible that drywall work is right so I am just taking advantage of this light okay give me two seconds I'm gonna walk you through the whole process all right so traditional building process if you're working with your drywall it's pretty much you do your three coats of mud you say in the room you prime the room you do a prime check and that's the process traditionally of taking a light like this and walking around checking your inside outside corners looking to see if all your narrow holes were filled properly or if you have divots I had a few divots and the other ceiling not a big surprise like when you're doing your drywall work you're gonna run into situations where different aspects of the work only got two coats instead of three or the screws were put in there just a little deeper than usual this is why we do a prime check just to help take care of all those little imperfections and it's a lot easier after you're sanded the ridges off to go back and fill the divots and the scratches then to try to sand everything perfect the first time know what I like to do the secret to white how I get such a great finish when I'm done is I'll actually sand it and I'll prime it do a prime check but I use a 45-minute the compound here when I do my prime check because after that compound is on all of my ceilings are going to get two coats of paint all of my walls are gonna get two coats of paint and this compound here does not flash through the paint after you gets two more coats so I'm really confident with that situation I'll come by and I'll do one coat of paint on all the ceilings and walls I'm not gonna use the brush and cut in as you can see but this allows me to have the colors in the room right then are gonna be the here long term so I can experience the daylight shining into the room bouncing off these colors because the ceiling with that daylight coming across the horizon exposed a lot of things and I never saw this color paint once I put the the light on it showed a lot of things I didn't see with my trembling so it's just nice to do one coat it also lets me have a look because it takes what 20 minutes to roll all the walls it allows me to have a look at the color in the finished space and confirm whether or not we like what we see so now that the prime check is all done we're gonna have my wife come down we're going to pull out some tile we're going to talk about plans for the future on the back wall but we get to experience the color in our kitchen decide if we want to go darker or lighter or something different all together but this is a great time it only takes half an hour and half a gallon of paint so you can invest that now you've all seen the TV shows where they put like five or six colors on the wall and so these little squares I don't know for how for the life of me anybody can decide that that paint color works by little square most people don't have that kind of vision so my wife is a visual inspector she doesn't see things in her head before it's finished like I do so I take everything one step at a time show her completed space get approval and then move forward it works and that's how most people work right so if you're like most people you're gonna want to get one code on your walls double check the space before you get to committed to doing all the tedious brush work and the details huh once you're happy and you're ready to move forward then it's simple now I'm gonna get rid of this we'll talk about the rest of the stages but you can finish off your room all right so now that our patches are all dried up we're gonna come back with a sanding block this is a medium to fine grit right and you can just give it a nice little scuff okay that'll work great your other option because when we do this we're also going to be sanding the rest of the wall it needs to be Santa we can take our sanding pad here no this is my radius 360 okay I'll put it on my painter stick because it has this little adapter and we are going to call this first coat so we're gonna also need the sand in between coats so we want to go completely up and down here the whole surface including your pageant's okay that's the other option now you can see it was brand new clean I'll be spots here are little chunks of dirt and issues that were on the wall and now is sanded smooth and it collects it right here I got this question a lot actually dealing with sanding walls you have to clean all the dust off the answer is no when you sand your drywall on the first time you're gonna have a bunch of dust left on the wall when you're adding your primer that dust gets mixed in with the paint and it becomes part of the solids content of the paint now that's a fancy word for high-quality primer has a lot of solid content okay so having dust on the wall just me you're gonna make your paint even better it's gonna make it much more solid white and less transparent and that allows you to see all the imperfections it'll also fill in a lot of hairline scratches left over from sanding so leave the best on there get your first coat patch it check it in the sunlight repair it whether you're 45 sand it again sand your whole wall right then it's time to prime now I've done this in other videos and I've talked about my sheetrock 45 material and how I'm confident that I can just go ahead and put two coats of paint on that I'm good to go but if you don't have that available in your area then you follow this procedure just take a bit of primer and brush it on okay done now we only have to wait about five or six minutes and a light dusting like that is going to be perfect okay so now I'm going to go ahead sand the rest of this well patch the rest of these spots up and then we're going to go from there this is the whole process for sanding between coats there we go that's done now the most amazing thing about that is it makes the wall incredibly smooth all right you know what hit the rest of these patches just a light dusting right you're not looking to put a lot of paint on the wall here here I go from the purpose of this is just to make sure that all these little spots if you using regular compound they don't end up showing through in the sunlight this is what happens it's called flashing flashing is the painters enemy because whenever you have flashing after two coats of finish paint you can't just go with a little with the brush after and touch it up because that'll show too because you're leaving brush mark instead of roller mark you can't just go by with a little mini roller because acrylic paint after is considering for a little bit the levels of acrylic are different from the beginning to the end so the only way to make a nice wall when you're painting is to paint the whole wall top the bottom the whole section so you can't do touch-ups on flashes so better safe than sorry hit it with your primer you can avoid that cost of mistake because flashing in your paint is going to leave you really disappointed also means you got to go back out and buy another gallon of paint in order to fix that wall as most rooms one gallon of paint will do fine but you get flashing you don't have enough paint left over to do the whole wall again and that is how you avoid it right there now we're gonna give this about ten minutes I'm gonna come back with the brush do the same thing we'll show you there okay so while you're waiting for your primer spots to dry you can go ahead and grab your paint because we still have to do our cut line now if you want to learn my process for painting walls I'll put a link in the video you can click the card right here what I'm going to do is I basically have five or ten minutes waiting for this to dry up so until that's done I might as well do my first cut in and having that finished it's just good use of time right you know that old expression nobody wants to sit around watching paint dry well the truth is if you have the right order of doing things your paints always buying while you're working you're never wasting your time careful here my bench is wobbly yeah that's right you're watching this correctly there's no tape needed for my process other video I'll show you I can actually paint this wall faster than you can put the tape on it you're talking about and the time it takes for most people to put the tape around their ceiling I can cut and roll and do all my patching so you should learn how to paint like this so I just finished doing all the cut line now my primer is dry then we're gonna come by we're gonna call this the first coat of color on the wall all right and we're just gonna brush over the primer same thing nice and light we're not doing anything here as far as adding too much texture don't want to have too much in the way of brush lines really feather that I just want to add the color all right what we're doing here is we're just prepping for the second coat so we can just get this on now this color that I'm using actually covers incredibly well so you can only have to be that careful depending on your paint be careful may want to put a nice little mini roller involved in this program just to get good coverage because the brush you can see it leaves these little white streaks okay so depending on the paint you're using if you use the lighter touch you'll get much better coverage so that's just a tip right there for you there we go good coverage whether the edges and the reason I'm using the brush over and over and over again because it's a really good failsafe technique if you have blues and reds and that sort of thing you might find it even necessary to do a brush coat like this and then come back with the mini roller and then an extra coat on your patch just to get the right color depth of color in it there's a lot of real popular colors out there that are somewhat translucent nowadays they're real pain in the butt to do repair work on now you see the time that it takes you to run around your room and hit all your patches this paint will dry because we're putting it on real thin okay this whole application only needs about five or ten minutes and wait um you're done prepping your patches you can just come right back with the brush and the roller and do the wall all over again put the final coat on now I wanted to mention really quickly because I don't have any trims done yet some of your gonna notice hey what's going on with the ceiling up here that's pretty nasty and where's the baseboard here's the thing when you're doing a project of this scale a couple of rooms all the drywall work the ceiling paint the wall paint all the touch-ups you've got a lot of time it's in your favor here you can put in the carpentry at any point before you roll your second coat okay so what we're gonna do is just show you here's my baseboard right now what I'm gonna do today is actually set up some saw horses in this room I'm gonna paint all my baseboard trim so I'm gonna paint on my crown out and then I'm going to cut and install it so that I only have a quick little a few nail holes and some caulking to do then I can do my entire second coat and we're gonna be able to show you that process at the end of this video but I just give you an idea all this left for finishing this room my process is install this baseboard about 1/4 to 1/2 inch off the ground and I'll just nail it in like that and then when I come do my flooring my flooring will slide up on underneath ok and you'll see that they'll be a gap all the holes especially is really necessary to do it this way and then you come back with a small detail trim like a doorstop or a shoe molds and you close that gap after the fact there's no way you're gonna get a piece this thick of wood to follow the contour and close all those gaps up a short piece might look really pretty and you might want to say there's an argument for putting the flooring in first now in new homes you could put the flooring in first and then put all your trims on and avoid that detail element but in older homes like this the walls have got too much of a curve and even though we're using some floor leveler in places it's really difficult to guarantee that you can manipulate this board so what I like to do is put all my baseboards on first I have them painted I use the adhesive on the back just stick that on the wall throw the odd Brad nail in in part of the detail so that I can just put some of that 45 compound in there like I said we'll get all that detail in a minute but this is why I'm installing where the gap and then I've got probably two days of touch-ups and waiting for the good sunlight and all that sort of thing I'm not in a hurry to finish the paint so while I'm working on the paint I can also do all the truth no and of course if you install your drywall with a little gap under the floor you have lots of room for expansion contraction with any kind of learning that you install so once everything is all done we're gonna take in our second cut now listen important to know that when you're painting your walls on the first coat you can do the cut after the roll there's no rule about that but on their second coat you really want to do all the cutting and details on each individual section of wall and then roll it where right away while it's wet remember the technology and paint nowadays has it so that this coat of paint can actually dry in about 20 minutes and you really want to go a wet edge on wet edge so having a good technique here to finish quickly is important all right well I hope you enjoyed that video and listen if you're watching how to do drywall because you're in the middle of a major project then we might not consider you watch one of these two videos we got a a to z project how to do your whole basement from scratch and we also have a great modern bathroom right from the very beginning right to the last finishing touches click one of those you can join us for the ride and fill yourself with lots of informational to help you get your next project we don't say using

Channel: Home RenoVision DIY

Views: 820,489

Rating: 4.901463 out of 5

Keywords: homerenovision, renovision, drywall, install drywall, drywall guide, drywall installation, how to drywall, dry walls installation, dry wall, diy drywall, how to do drywall, diy drywall installation, drywall diy, drywall installation guide, diy drywall installation video, drywall diy video, install and finish drywall, how to install drywall, how to install drywall diy tutorial, diy how to install dry wall

Id: VQIMaR7hWtM

Length: 176min 56sec (10616 seconds)

Published: Sat May 23 2020