100 - DIY Shed - Complete Instructions - Best Tutorial There Is! (part 2 of 5)

[Music] hi everyone my name is James welcome to King's fine woodworking this is part 2 of our shed building series and today we are going to tackle the walls and siding it's a big project but when we break it up into six small pieces it's not so bad this particular one might be a little deceptive it's actually really big it's a 10 by 16 with 9-foot sidewalls tall feet of clearance on the inside and it's got a seven-foot door but these principles apply to any shed you want to build all sizes build exactly the same way the purpose of this shed building series is to give you an exact step-by-step tutorial so that you can build any size shed that you want I will be following the international building code rules the IBC and nearly every jurisdiction in the country has adopted those regulations my purpose is to make this tutorial easy enough to follow even for someone who has no building experience and the project is designed so they can be done with a minimum number of tools all you really need is a circular saw a drill a hammer and some basic hand tools and you can accomplish this project part one left with us finishing off the ground prep the framing for the floor and the decking itself and today we're going to start on the walls it's usually easiest to build one of the long walls first we're gonna start with the wall that goes against our property line which is actually where my neighbor's shed is right now we've been told that he's taking that down but since it's not down yet we're gonna go ahead and put this wall up first because it's gonna be easier to get this one out of the way Maya's going to start the wall by cutting the pieces for the top plate and the sole plate those are the two by fours that go on the top and the bottom of this wall there are two top plates and only a single sole plate but for now we're gonna start by just cutting a single top plate now you might recall that our shed is 16 feet long and in fact we are using a 16 foot 2x4 here but she's cutting about seven inches off of this and the reason is because this wall doesn't go from one end of the floor to the other it actually will go in between the front and back walls so that's why it's being cut about seven inches short we at the top plate and the soleplate both done we'll need to put them both together and send them up on end and line the ends up flush so that we can mark out all of our locations for the studs which will be 16 inches on center you can see that Kyle has them lined up flush with the edge of that 2x4 and that 2x4 signifies where the front wall of the shed is going I'm using this piece of plywood to pretend like it's siding and I don't with the siding to come to the edge of that wall and pull my 16 s over that way but I want my edge of the siding to come to the edge of the building and I want to pull 16 s from there going back that way my 16 inches on center will split nice and evenly at the four foot natural break of the plywood and so if I simply hook my tape to the front walls edge of the piece of 2x4 there and start pulling my 16 inches on center that way then I know my siding will all the way to the front of the building and it will still split on 16 inch centers all the way down so my dividing points where the plywood breaks will be right in line with a joint where there's a stud I wanted to let you know that we do sell a comprehensive set of 3d plans for all of the popular shed sizes and we've actually done all the math for you all the angles for the roof pitch the measurements the links calculations and everything so all you have to do is follow the cut list and we provide a complete materials list and you can build a shed with our plans and I have a link for that in the description down below all right so my daughter has taken the soleplate down to the bottom and left the top plate in place now we're going to locate the studs the first thing she's going to do is crown the studs which means she's going to look and see which way they bow we did the exact same thing for the floor and we made sure that all of the floor joists bowed up with with the curve facing up for the wallets important it doesn't matter if they bow in or they bow out but they all need to bow in the same direction that way when the siding goes on the outside it's a nice smooth transition from one piece of siding to the next that way you don't inadvertently put one bow up the very next bow down and you'd have a Ripley wall looking down it with all of the crowning completed in the studs in the right spot it's time to nail them together we typically put two 16 penny galvanized nails you can certainly drive these in by hand if you have a nail gun it goes a little bit quicker and you do need to adjust your pressure like we need to there we didn't have a pressure set quite high enough on the compressor so we went adjusted that but if that ever happens to you you can just hand drive that in the rest of the way and it's also important to use a galvanized nail this is an outdoor shed although it should stay dry on the inside galvanized nails are just going to last longer and when you put the studs in it's important to make sure that they line up dead center right in the middle of that mark that you just made because that pencil mark that we made earlier that's going to be the dividing point between two pieces of siding and so it's important that we have a little bit of surface area for the nail to bite on each piece of siding that comes to that joint with the first side nailed in completely they'll need to pull it out of the way so that they can get up on the deck and work to nail the other side in once again 216 penny nails per joint and it's important to make sure that the pencil line is lined up right in the middle of that stud and of course we would like to stay flush that just makes for a better quality wall when we're all done hey if you all out there like watching our videos and like the things that we do if you would just take one minute and hit that subscribe button we would really appreciate it and if you click the Bell notification icon that lets you know in advance whenever we have videos coming out and hitting that subscribe button is really the only way that our channel can grow a lot of times I forget to ask for folks to do that but it really does mean a big deal to us so if you can do that thank you alright so the first wall framework is nailed together and one of the cool things about shed building is that even though it's a big project it goes really fast you can cut the pieces and nail together a wall in just a few minutes at this point we're going to pull the wall all the way down to the very corner of our decking we know the deck frame and floor there is completely square because we've built it that way and we're just going to pull this to the corner and then check square quickly on this before we put our siding on having a perfectly square wall is critically important because if it's not nothing else will come together and one thing that helps during the build of a project like this is to put the siding on before you raise up the wall in which case the wall won't fall out of square and during the build process and remember getting it square is as simple as just measuring outside to outside from diagonal to diagonal and the two diagonals have to be equal if you have that you have a square project okay so pay attention to what the girls are doing at the bottom here they have some scrap two-by-fours and they're keeping them flush with the bottom of the wall but I actually want the siding to come down and match up flush with those two by fours on the bottom because I want the siding to hang down the bottom and on the side we have another 2x4 scrap here and that's to make sure the siding comes all the way to the edge to the front of the building like we were talking about that's where we have a three and a half inch offset going backwards before we started pulling our 16 inches on center so this first piece of siding has to be offset by three and a half inches down to the bottom and three and a half inches off to the side since the two side walls are interior walls they're going to go between the front and back wall hopefully that makes sense and since we did that pullback there you can see the very center of this seam of siding goes right down the center of the stud it appears to go all the way to the right side but that's just the under flap the next piece of siding will go over the top of that one and here at the bottom the girls are marking with a chalk line where the stud is in order to know where to nail that way the nails just go in the stud and they don't miss down below they'll also do the same along the side this one side has to be marked so they know where to put the nails and then we just have to follow our regular nailing schedule which is anywhere along the perimeter of the plywood which is this bottom row we need to put a nail in every six inches that'll keep with the IBC code so along this bottom part and along the side and along the seam put the nail every six inches and then in the field of the plywood or siding in this case we just need to put the nails about every 12 inches and this is the middle so I'm trying to space them about every 12 inches or so so as we put this next piece of siding in place you'll get to see how they overlap at the seams most types of panel siding do this and it really helps with water resistance it will help it to shed water out there and you can see that even when they do overlap we still have that vertical line going down so it just blends in with the remainder of the vertical lines so you can't really tell if there's a seam there now am I is going to continue the chalk line here so she knows where to nail for this piece as well and of course we have to kneel at the top too and even though the top is the perimeter of this piece of siding you can tell we can't put a nail every six inches because there's simply nothing behind the siding so in this case you just put a nail wherever you can and then along both sides you'll go ahead and put one every six inches okay so once we have finished the bottom course of siding all the way across you'll see there's still a section up top where there is no siting and that's because I chose a nine foot wall but I only had 8 foot tall siding available to me so Maya's measured that out and she's gonna snap a chalk line and cut our pieces of citing that ago gonna fill in along the top now it's important to cut this once you measure it to cut it about an inch and a half tall taller than just from deciding to the edge of the top plate the outside side of the top plate because we're going to put a double top plate and I actually made a mistake here and I told her to cut it flush with the top plate without thinking but will correct that later you see it's flush with the top plate but it does need to stick up an inch and a half further if we have a horizontal break in vertical siding we have to put in some flashing in order to keep it watertight this is the flashing that we use this is called Zee flashing sort of shaped like the letter Z I suppose and it's a 3/8 inch thick so it'll get just over this 3/8 inch siding and it will go in there just like that and that will keep the shed watertight on the inside we'll follow the same nailing schedule here or at least a similar one we're gonna get six inches along the outer perimeter where we can and then on the inside in the field I'm going to go ahead and put two even less a little bit closer than normal because a single nail isn't really enough and then Sai will go ahead and cut a piece of flashing for the other side since the flashing comes in 10 foot lengths but the shed is 16 feet long we'll need to cut this piece probably around six foot six something like that that way we can give it about six inches of overlap that's code whenever you have flashing you want to give it about six inches of overlap and it will just continue all the way to the end of this way and this is going to complete the very first wall so this wall is complete and it's perfect with one exception remember this top piece of siding should have an inch and a half above the top plate there because I will be putting on a secondary top plate and I would like to hide that with siding as well and for this particular wall since we won't be able to access it easily later we probably can after our neighbor takes down his shed but I thought it would be best to just go ahead and paint this now before we raise it up into place so we have the advantage of having a nice square wall if you put the siding on while it's down but we have the disadvantage of the fact that we have to pick up a much heavier wall in order to raise it into place given those two options I would always see if I could get a hand in order to get it raised and build the siding in place while the wall is on the ground that is pretty much the standard but it could be done either way and once you put into place you can see that the bottom lip of siding there went down over the edge of the deck by about three and a half inches and that's just going to keep the bottom of this thing watertight and I've got to tap it over into place in order to get it perfectly aligned from left to right and that space on the front there is where the front wall is going to go and that's why we had to do our measurements offset by three and a half inches back so once we have everything in place perfectly we'll go ahead and nail the floor of it down then we'll take a couple of long two by fours and tack them into the side will tack just a single one into the side for now so that it can pivot up and down and then I will go over to the wall will kind of push the wall forward or backward to try to achieve level and that'll need necessitate that I have to raise or lower this stud here or this extra 2x4 that I have and once I get it level we'll just tack this in place and then after confirming level we'll put an extra nail high and an extra nail low and that'll be some good security in case we have to leave this wall up overnight the wind isn't going to blow it down and damage anything and we'll just repeat that process on the other side and there you have it one wall is fully complete and for the rest of it it's much the same thing I'll go over the rest of it a little bit quicker here and I'll just kind of point out some of the specific details and here they are building the back wall so this is different from the two side walls in that the back wall is going to go edge to edge all the way from one edge of the decking to the other so in this case we're going to bring the siding up on the sides perfectly flush with that edge two-by-four stud the bottom still needs the three and a half inch overlap at the bottom so they can overhang the decking a little bit to give us water tightness but on the edge of the stud here you can see it's lined up flush so there's a difference between this one and the sidewalls and here you can notice that I did remember to put that extra little piece of inch and a half up on the siding on the right-hand side so it'll cover my other top plate and right now they're just kind of rotating this out of the way so we can stand it up against our woodworking shop and build the very next wall I need that nice big flat deck surface in order to build the next wall they're just gonna kind of temporarily put this out of the way the next part is going to be the front wall the front wall is going to contain the doors and so they're going to start like we did with the other walls we're gonna pull 16 inches on center this case we're pulling them from the edge of the 2x4 itself from the top plate and the sole plate because we don't have any overlap of siding the siding goes right to the edge of this since it's a front wall am I is going to go ahead and crown them at this point and then we're gonna put them all in place and we'll kind of identify what's going on here so it's going to start off like normal we're just going to nail one side down the whole way and we're going to get to a certain point and these this is going to be where the doorway goes so these are little studs that are going to go on top of a header and the header is what braces up the framework for the opening my is gonna lay the header in those top studs or short studs they're called studs and a header in our case and in most cases consists of a piece of dimensional lumber like a two by six in this case than a half an inch thick piece of plywood and then another piece of dimensional lumber those three thicknesses together are the thickness of a stud and so that's what the header is going to be made of and with that header in place so I can go ahead and nail those studs in next the girls will have to nail that header together to make it one continuous solid piece and the header basically spans the distance of the door opening and allows the studs to go ahead and continue carrying the roof from that point on up so the header is a structural component and it's always got to be assembled out of something like this I think the nailing schedule for a header is a pair of nails every 16 inches I've never felt like that was enough so I usually put him every six to eight and then she's gonna rotate the header over of course and nail it in from the backside it's imperative that this header acts as one piece even though it's three separate components once that's in place we're going to put another stud on the inside this stud is called a jack stud it's also called a trimmer stud so you me I've heard it referred to as a trimmer but the Jack's debt is gonna go next to a full-length stud and the fooling stud is called the King stud so she's nailing the king stud into the jack stud and she's angling the nails just a little bit because there are three and a quarter inch nails but we only have three inches of wood to go through and then she's going to go ahead and nail the king stud and the jack stud into the bottom which is the sole plate and you should be able to see that that jack stud is sort of like jacking up the header it's holding the header preventing the header from sliding down we are going to nail that header into this king stud but it's a good idea to have that jack stud underneath it there in fact that's code because that gives it a whole lot more support than these nails will and psy is taking the time to put three nails in the top two by six of the header and three nails in the bottom two by six of the header that way the header is securely fastened to the king stud and finally we will need to secure those studs down into the header and we'll do this with toe nailing proper toe nailing is done with the gun at about a 45 degree angle and you have to have the nail insert into the crippled stud at a point high enough where it doesn't split the crippled stud with the wall frame complete it has been scooted right into the exact corner and they're going to take measurements to make sure that we have achieved a perfect square and that's just done with measuring diagonally to diagonally and then we're going to put the siding on and you see the same thing the sidings gonna overlap three and a half inches on the bottom but since this is a front wall it's going to be flush with the edge of the two by fours so over lapping at the bottom but flush with the sides once the siding is complete Maya will need to cut a hole in it in order to get a router bit in and trim out the door opening so you can just plunge a circular saw in four times or you can even drill a hole if you want just something to have access to get a router bit in and we just use a flush trim router bit and it just makes really quick work of this and creates an absolute perfect door opening and the exact same procedure that we use to create a door opening here could be used to create a door opening anywhere in the shed and it'd be the same thing to put a window in as well the only exception with the window is that there would be a set of studs below the window in addition to studs on top of the header above the window but the procedure is exactly the same and you would end up cutting it out with the same technique here as well I'd like to take a second to say hi and give a shout out to all of our members of our community group on Facebook it's called king's fine woodworking community there's a link in the description if you're a woodworker and you're interested in joining it's a great place to share your work and get advice on projects things like that anything woodworking related and this is a great community it's been around for a year and a half or so it's about 20,000 members it's a private community so people from the outside can't come in and fill it with advertising anything like that it's just for woodworkers to share ideas and projects with so I'll put a link of that again in the description [Music] and that's basically how to cut out a doorway on the bottom that's gonna be cut out as well but it's not gonna be cut out yet we need this whole thing intact the soleplate has neat needs to stay in place in order to keep this wall square to get it up once the wall is up and in place we'll cut that bottom part of the opening out off camera we built the other side wall you can see that when laying at the bottom there and we've dropped the second wall that we built back down this is the back wall and that's what they're raising up into place now it's important to go slow when lifting these walls and make sure that the flap the extra siding that hangs down goes just over the edge but that the the two-by-four soleplate that's on the bottom still stays on that deck and once it's fully raised into the vertical position we'll slide it all the way back to the left and put it in place and then when that's done sigh we'll go ahead and tack the first couple of nails down then she'll go over to the other side and do the same thing we did have to take that brace out on that side that was holding that left side wall in place and keeping it square and you can see it's leaning a little bit out of square but we're gonna pull that back into square here in just a minute okay so when we pull that back wall up vertically up close to this side wall here that automatically pulls it into square because we know that the back wall is square in the left right orientation it was hard to get a nail gun in there because the space was tight and so Sai is using a palm nailer in order to nail these two walls together a palm nailer is pretty convenient tool it's about 40 or 50 dollars and it allows you get into pretty tight spots and it nails nails in very fast and here we're just going to nail this from the bottom all the way up to the top and that's going to kind of secure those two walls together with that wall held in place we're going to go to the other side wall and you'll notice all we have to do is lift the wall straight up so you should take note when you're building these walls to make sure that when you build you build the bottom side down towards where it needs to go and the top side where it needs to go so that when you lift it in place it's already oriented in the right direction and I think now for the first time you can kind of get a good view of how the siding is hanging down over or below a good portion of that decking and that's gonna make sure that any water anything that splashes up isn't gonna get up and get underneath and and get into our shed so we've got this thing pushed into place nice and snug against that back wall and typically we'll tack one side in and then we'll move to the other side we'll push the wall all the way tight into position where it goes and we'll tack that in and then we'll make sure that the middle is pushed in tight as well and once we make sure that happens there's just against the wall were to bow outwards you can see Kyle is pushing a little in to keep it nice and tight and then sides going to go ahead on the inside and put a couple of nails in every Bay all the way across and then of course it's back to nailing the two walls together once again this site is just as tight as the last side because the studs here are in identical position to the studs over there and you can see how this nail is going this nail from the sidewall is going all the way through and it's going into the stud the end stud on the back wall and we'll do that all the way up and I want to show you something here sometimes you'll do these and you'll end up with a little tiny gap where it probably could have been pulled in tighter up top here's the easiest way to fix that I use these grk screws this is a four inch screw so it's a 5/16 by four very big powerful aggressive screw and so much faster and easier than nails you can get a good look at that screw there and so Kyle will just go up top and you don't have to pre-drill these or anything and we'll just drill this through in place of a nail at the top so anywhere where we have these gaps we're gonna zoom in so you could see this here anywhere we have these gaps you can put these screws in really pull these walls together tight and it'll keep everything perfectly square just like that so that's a nice handy thing to have whenever you're building a shed door or framing any kind of wall with three other walls in place it's a good time to go around and nail down all of the siding and I just put one nail in each siding section and that goes directly into the framework of the decking itself and that kind of holds the wall a little bit extra securely there and we'll do this all the way around the perimeter and also where the in siding overlapped we're gonna nail up that side and that also secures these two walls together and finally we will go ahead and put in the front wall the last wall is always a bit of a challenge because it's not on the deck itself so we can't just raise it we actually have to lift it directly into place that makes it a little bit tougher but if you can get a few hands to help you it's not so bad so we've got that set up and pushed into place the framework for this end wall of course goes in front of the framework for the side walls remember we had to cut the side walls a little bit short for that and you can see that that side wall on the right is leaning to the back again again but we'll pull it together and we've got a gap down here to right off the bat so we're gonna pull that together with a screw and then sighs going to go ahead and nail down this soleplate now we don't want to nail down the area in the threshold area the opening to the door we don't want to nail that down because we want to be able to walk in out there and have it smooth so we'll keep that free so that we can cut that bottom part of the soleplate off later but it had to stay in place in order for this wall to maintain its integrity and stay in one piece and then the usual routine here we're going to nail the walls together up the whole side and anywhere that there's a gap or it didn't pull together tight we're gonna go ahead and use those large grk screws to pull it together I just wanted to mention once again that if you're looking to have a shed made and you'll do it yourself we do have plans we have comprehensive 3d plans all the math has done its for all the popular shed sizes you don't have to do any calculations for the roof or any of these sides it'll come with a complete materials list cut list everything that you need all the dimensions laid out for you so you can just cut it and go and there's link to that in the description with all the walls securely attached and fastened together it is time to cut out the bottom portion of the soleplate that's in the doorway opening you can do this with a handsaw works great I happen to have a reciprocating saw here on sight so I'm gonna use this just be careful when you're cutting down through it not to cut into your decking it's gonna look ugly if you do just make sure you get through the 2x4 and nothing else if you can help it and once you get that out then we're going to need to trim off this siding because the siding is in the way as well and I have a little Japanese saw here since we do woodworking of course and it's really easy to cut off with this you can also cut it off just as fast with a handsaw once that's cut off I actually want to put it back in place there but I need to trim that inch and a half off of the top of it where the stud was that way it's gonna continue to line up with the bottom of my siding everywhere else but the top parts not overlapping and hanging up into my walkway area so I'm just gonna use the same two pieces trim the top part off and put them right back into place this is such an awesome DIY project I just can't stress it enough we had a quote from local shed builder actually they're a national shed builder and for one this size 16 by 9 with our sorry 16 by 10 with 9-foot sidewalls it came in at seven thousand nine hundred dollars which is a lot of money I think we have a little over two thousand dollars in materials in this so you can see the savings are huge and you could put together something smaller like an 8 by 10 for just a few hundred bucks you know compared to spending thousands and having somebody to do it for you so just some thoughts on that all right now we're getting to the second top plate and this top plate is what really locks these walls together strong you can see by the way we constructed the sidewall here is that it's seven inches shorter than our 16 foot length however when we cut our top plate here our second top plate we're cutting this at the full 16 foot length therefore it's going to overlap the wall below it and it's gonna overlap the front and back walls and nailing this into those is what really gives those walls a lot of strength and prevents them from pulling apart all right so Kyle is balanced precariously up on the top of this ladder here and the first thing we'll do is we will mail this in to the front wall so I usually put three nails in this location and I put one nail in each Bay all the way across to hold this securely to this top wall to the to the existing top plate another reason for having a double top plate is because that top plate let's take a moment here sigh as nailing this side in and same technique here we want to get about three nails into that joint and that will secure it so that this back wall can never push away to the left it's kind of locked permanently to the side wall and what I was saying is another reason for having a double top plate is because the rafters themselves that carry the roof they have to land on this top plate so we don't want any sort of deflection in the top plate we wanted to maintain rigidity and having a double top plate helps with the strength of that now we're going to move to the other side wall which is the first of all I put up which you'll notice here this is the one I didn't let the siding stick up an inch and a half like I should have so after we put this top plate in we're actually gonna go on the outside over there and we're going to add a one and a half inch strip of siding all the way across in order to make sure that it stays covered I do expect the rafter staying down below that so I don't think there's gonna be any weather issues but when you're cutting the siding it's best if you you know you can let it overhang come up above the top about an inch and a half to cover these second top plates but same nailing schedule here we'll put three in the joint and then we'll put one in each bay all the way across you have to be careful when you're nailing if your nail too close to the edge of the board sometimes you get a split like that right there that one's probably not a big deal but if it would if it were bad or for a little more critical I might replace that just to just be prepared for that and try to keep your nails in a little bit from the edge now it's time to fill in the rest of the top plates these don't have a whole lot of function they're not really locking anything down but they're bringing the top part of the wall all up to the same height and of course they will still carry the gable end of the roof so they do have some load bearing responsibilities as well and that is going to complete these nine-foot sidewalls the final step of the wall building is to just make sure that the walls themselves when they came to the top maintained their squareness so we're going to do a quick measurement from diagonal to a diagonal and make sure that it works mmm in which case if it didn't we can always squeeze the two sides together and temporarily tack a board up before we begin with our roof but in this case they did stay the same and that includes this part of the build I hope you guys have enjoyed this so far and I really hope you'll come back and watch the next installment so long for today and thanks for watching [Music] [Music] you

Channel: Kings Fine Woodworking

Views: 482,200

Keywords: woodworking, how to, diy, build, shed, floor, yard, garden, home, backyard, construct, plan, framing, sub floor, pressure treated, how to build a shed, building a shed, build a shed, how to build shed, diy shed building, diy shed, home renovision shed, shed building for diy, shed build, home renovision diy how to build a shed, how to build a shed home renovision, diy cheap shed building, diy shed build, shed build diy, garden shed, how to build a shed house, build a shed from scratch

Id: FlNe64Nlq_M

Length: 34min 59sec (2099 seconds)

Published: Thu Oct 31 2019