How to 3D Model ORGANIC Shapes in Fusion 360 | Dragon Secret Compartment Box Part 1

the first step in fusion 360 is to import a scanned image the sketch that I created has been placed in the background and then I can create these sketch lines overtop of that so I'm gonna be working with meshes and in here you can move around the points the lines the faces I'd started out with a sphere for the face and just eyeballed the size because everything can be adjusted from the initial body that's created and for this I definitely turned on symmetry so that I could work on both sides of the face at the same time ultimately I'm going to slice it in half Anneliese one of the haps but it's easier to see how things are looking as you go if both sides of the face are being created at the same time and it was just a lot of playing around with this moving these around to try and get a shape that looked like it would work well for the dragon and I did make changes to this quite a bit throughout the process as I was creating the slices that became the final face I also sliced off the back of the sphere so instead of working on the whole round object I'm just working on a single face that contours around the front of the face this is what my two surfaces ended up looking like approximately for a face and the jaw out of the forum workspace although I did go back and edit those multiple times before we get too far though let's just take a step back because there are really three main processes that I used throughout this project and I think that if we look each of those individually it will make more sense in the project as a whole so the first method is sculpt and trim this is what I use for the face and the jaw primarily so I'm going to go through eight rasuu per simple sample project here so it's easier to see what exactly is going on first I'm going to create a sketch and I'm just making a shape that's sort of an eye it's just a sample here but we want to have a couple of different parts that would be individual bodies so it can create different levels from those using our sculpted form I'm going to jump now in to the forums face starting out with a sphere and I'm just going to adjust that around until it covers my sketch so my edges overlap somewhat and this is quite flexible you can grab individual points you can grab lines or the full edge that wraps around the shape and you can also just grab it by a face and move it in any direction that you need I'm going to follow the same process that I used for the dragon face so for this we're going to select the back faces and just delete those that does change where the points are situated so it needs to go back in and move those points around a little bit you can also modify your sketch as you do this you can go back and forth between the sketching workspace the form workspace you just have to re-enter it in your history timeline when you do go back into your sculpting form space after you've already finished the form you can see there's a yellow sort of shape of what it was the last time you exited so for making revisions that can be helpful you can see if you are making an edge you know more inward or further past so it helps to direct those revisions on what after looking at the shape from all directions we're just going to say I'm happy with that now and we're going to use that sketch to extrude each of the shapes that's contained in the sketch I want to extrude them as a separate part though so I don't want them to be joined I want to create a new body for each one now I have three separate bodies what I'm going to do is use the sculpted piece to trim each of these bodies because obviously I have over extruded these far past and they're all in the same level but I want to use that contoured shape to contour the extruded points to do this there are multiple ways but the way that I used primarily was to select the sculpted shape choose the thicken option and you can thicken it out to wherever you want it to go selecting the option to keep only the intersection of those two bodies and anything above or below would be removed the key here is to have it cutting only one shape at a time so we can just turn off the other bodies and have it cut just the top and the center and then the outer piece each at a different height so then we end up with this multi-level shape that all has the same contour from the sculpted piece I can also go back in with that same sculpted piece and trim away the back if I want it to not be as deep as it is right now so we can just trim all of those back edges level further up make it any thickness that we want and then you can go in after cutting everything you can add fill it's you know whatever you need to do to further modify those pieces here's how that was applied to the dragon so for the face I created that overall sculpt extruded each of the sections in the face based on my original sketch then I cut each of those individually with the sculpted form for the scales that go down the nose I also used the move tool to rotate those somewhat so that they would appear to be overlapping instead of all being on the same level and then trimmed all of the face planes to whatever height was needed so they were each individual pieces but everything has the same contour moving on to method to sculpt to solid in this case we're going to be using the same idea of having a sketch that we're basing things on just to kind of get the sizes and layouts and we're going to go into the form workspace again so for this one I'm going to do a horn on the dragon and I'm starting out with a cylinder this is open at both ends and when you're doing this type of thing it's best to use as few faces as possible when you're starting out because you can always add more complexity to the geometry but when you have more faces that's more points to move and your curves aren't going to be as even so you want to just keep things as simple as possible and add more detail later on if needed so I took the cylinder and I sliced away the back I have basically just two faces two already have a curve in them and I'm going to begin to add additional faces to this by pulling them out while holding the Alt key then I can change the angle and placement for each of those lines as its created to follow the shape of my sketch and this is not attaching to the sketch in any way I'm just using the sketch as a reference in this case I have locked my view so that I am moving the pieces only along one plane so at this point they're staying flat against the plane but as you're doing more complex shapes you might be moving things past that plane if you do need to realign your points against plane you can do that easily using the flatten tool for that you just want to select the plane or surface that you want to align them to you can also use the pull tool if you're wanting to align the points to something that isn't just a flat plane then you select the points that you want to be affected by the command and they will all flatten out to whatever surface you've selected in this case I do want the box to be flat since this is a piece that's going up against a wall if you wanted it to be fully three-dimensional you could just simply not delete the back faces and this would then wrap all the way around you do have to watch it with where the points end up when you're creating something that comes to a point like this when you try to go back to finishing the form sometimes you'll run into errors so you just have to be aware of that and fix things as they happen so I'm happy with the shape now I'm just going to hit finish form so what I have right now is not a solid it is just a surface I want to make this a solid so it can be joined with other parts and is that it will 3d print so all I need to do is use a patch tool to fill in the back then use the stitch tool to attach both of those pieces together then the surfaces do become a solid which can be incorporated into the rest of the model I used this process for all of the horns but then I also followed a similar process for creating some added dimension in the eyebrow area and also for creating a rise and then recess in the nostril I added eyelids this way and then just subtracted out portions using the extrude command after they had been turned to solid you can create any surface turn it into a solid with the patch and stitch tools then you can cut more pieces out of it to add complexity as you go and in some cases these bodies did extends past where I wanted them to go at the back of the face so I just used my surface from the original face sculpt to trim away any X the next way of creating things is the most basic so you've probably done this many times if you've done any kind of 3d modeling software that is sketch and extrude this involves creating a sketch and you can use a combination of straight lines curves whatever you're just creating that profile and you can extrude those parts up individually or you can use the same sketch to cut away parts you can then create additional sketches as needed on different faces and trim away more parts in this case I'm just going to add a screw hole into it this is something that was used throughout the project so again you start with a simple sketch and then you can build on the complexity from there this was the primary process used for creating the moving parts for the jaw so it can go up and down these are hidden behind the head and they are just sketches that are extruded and then the holes are extruded through and cut away and then I've also added in some additional components just to represent the hardware and these are not modeled by me these were from the McMaster car library that's built into fusion 360 this way you can see how everything goes together we have some Springs at the base to cushion the fall as the jaw moves down and then we have different supports screw it into a backer board let's put all three of these methods together and see how the dragon was created so we created a couple of different surfaces using the model environment and then we use those to trim extrusions that were based on sketches then I'm using a lot more of the sketch and extrude method at the back of the dragon where there's a lot of mechanical parts that need to be able to move together they need to be more precise and they do not need to be those smooth curves that we want on the front so created horns and we created the lower jaw using all of these methods combined together a mix of extrusions and sculpting and sweeping and then just extruding holes through so there's places for screws and then all of these are made to fit together everything is based on sketches that might cross between different components so that we can ensure everything is aligned properly here we have the finished model with all of those elements bind together to create something fairly complex based on simple sketches now I'm going to go ahead and just add in some colors onto this just change the appearance so it's easier to see the different shapes and just make sure everything is looking how I want it to this is just click and drag now you can drag it onto an entire body or component or you can just drag the color on to a face if you want to change parts of a body or component with some contrast now with the different colors it's just easier to see how this is done really going to look once it's finished I'm ready to print everything out so I saved all of my files into bite-sized chunks that would fit nicely on the printer and fit together as best as possible and gluing in the touching stage I use a couple of different filaments for this some amazonbasics ptg for the really large parts which were printed at point one resolution and then the mechanical parts and the face that have more detail and need to have really good layer bonding those I did in matte fiber HD PLA from proto pasta there's of course cleanup to do in everything I used a lot of brands just because these were reasonably large parts that I wanted to keep nice and flat and the Amazon ptg didn't want to work just a tiny bit but it was ok and then the supports were a bit too well attached in a few spots but not terrible I was able to get them all out all the supports were at the back so it only matters that the parts can still fit together they don't have to be beautiful the lower draw piece was the most difficult the supports were really stuck on there and then I had created an area that was very difficult to get to with the lower lip there is an actual lip there too so but any small items placed into the dish won't just fall out but that did make removing the support structure rather difficult so I did get it out in the end but it took a couple of different pairs of pliers and some time there are plenty of areas at the back that need to be cleaned up but that are going to have the scale that releases the lever everything needs to fit together a lot of the tolerances and clearances are really tight on this because I am intending to sand everything to an absolutely perfect fit so that the parts slide smoothly together if I have too much clearance and then I sand them smooth then there's going to be too much of a gap and they're not going to walk in properly so in this case I've opted to keep my tolerances minimal and then just tweak them after the fact on the top part of the lower jaw back there were some areas that built-in supports and Kira weren't working too well with that so I created some custom supports so that I could print this vertically however I didn't quite have those calibrated properly I had some errors in my sketch so I ended up breaking a piece off by mistake because it was thoroughly joined instead of popping out this particular element does glue quite well because it has matte fibres worked into the filament so I just attached that back with some superglue or I could also just reprint it if that doesn't end up holding however that particular piece it's not particularly load-bearing I used a dremel to pre trim some of the areas where the supports were overly attached and then this is how these pieces are supposed to fit together once that piece is glued back on I did also notice one other issue with this part which is that it is missing the screw hole through these panels that fit into the slots I need to go back into the model and fix that for this particular part I'm probably going to just use a drill to add the holes in but for future prints gonna have any Corrections made then for the lower jaw you can see I did end up getting all of the supports out it's a little bit rough in there so it possibly it could be modified in the model but I think that actually it's going to be okay we'll see how it cleans up and that's how those two parts will ultimately attach together the face was printed in multiple parts that fit together nicely and the sports came out quite well in that but I did find one other error in my model here where there was a combined error there was an extra tab that I have just cut off and then I have also fixed that in the original model so that for a future prints that will need to be done this model is printed in quite a few different pieces I opted to go with smaller parts that I knew I would be able to glue together just fine just so that I would have the simplest cleanest prints this large piece is going to fit on to the horizontal cross piece there but it's very difficult to see if anything is really going to work properly until it is assembled the horizontal track I've gone through a couple of different versions of that I started out just using a wheel and then I realized that a bearing would be a better idea the track is rather tight right now because this has not been sanded yet but I will be able to fine-tune that to slide just right and hopefully be tight enough with the bearings so that doesn't just completely fall and then the springs at the bottom should cushion that fall also a couple of these pieces do need to be reprinted based on revisions and just depending on which filament they're working best for example I printed the horizontal track with the ptg but slayer bonding was not super great and one of the pieces broke off while I was just trying to cut off some strings so I'm going to print that one in the matte fibre HD PLA let's jump back in the model and make those revisions based on what we've seen with the finished parts so for the upper jaw piece there we're going to use the sketch that was there it just was not extrude through this part simply extrude that back in the timeline so that you are further back in history and then once you move forward again that modification will be copied to any future parts so when this is mirrored the hole will also be on the other side changing the custom supports is a little bit more complicated then adding the hole was so when I look at this in the top or perfect view I can say that there's definitely an error there it is overlapping instead of being offset perhaps the role on that line was projected or something was offset in the wrong direction so I'm going to just grab the correct line and project that so I can see what I'm doing and I'm just going to trim that further back so this piece is not right up against that part I'm just going to cut away any excess lines there and now we do have a gap that should allow the part to be removed more easily same thing for the rounded piece it was connecting a bit too close over here so we're going to just trim away the point I don't want to trim away too much because I do want it to print cleanly but just enough so it's a bit easier to remove it from the finished part then we're just going to delete the other parts and go ahead and mirror the new parts and that way the changes will be copied to both sides when you go back in your history and make changes do something like this to a sketch it's very likely that it's going to cause some sort of errors or just things aren't going to look quite the same way as they were supposed to so in this case the parts on the left side didn't extrude because I changed the sketch and they now were classified as new bodies so they weren't included in that extrude so all I need to do is right-click on each of those actions that need to be revised select the new sketch profiles and then those will then be included in the extrudes just copied my appearance over there so everything is clear as to what's a support structure and what is a final part there is another piece to each of these supports I had added a small plate at the bottom just so there's a couple of solid layers to ensure that the slicer is picking up these thin lines so same thing there all I needed to do was go back into the extrude select the sketch profiles as they are now and then those are included in the extrude commands so I've made multiple changes in this way just going back in my history that's the great thing about having this history is you can change your mind as you go or fix errors you just have to keep checking your timeline and ensure that any changes you're making aren't breaking the model or causing anything to not work the way it's supposed to it's difficult to tell at this point if everything is going to work together properly not if the mechanism is going to function as its intended so as I move forward with assembly I very well may need to go back into the history again make changes reprint parts no big deal because we do have that ability to make changes that will then update throughout the model so next time I'm going to be doing the assembly the filling sanding all that and then finishing so I'll be working on that in the next video for this series

Channel: Lindy Design Lab

Views: 55,620

Keywords: 3D Printing, Props, Dragon Storage Box, Dragon Head, Fusion 360 Dragon, Fusion 360 Sculpting Tutorial, Secret Storage Box, Secret Compartment, Key Hanger, Key Peg, Dragon Wall Art, Jaw-Dropping Dragon, Dragon Box, 3D Printed Dragon, Secret Box, How to make a dragon, how to sculpt a dragon, how to 3d print a dragon, how to make a dragon in fusion 360, fusion 360 animation, fusion 360 dragon animation

Id: EtlIKFO5qpU

Length: 21min 13sec (1273 seconds)

Published: Sun Jul 14 2019