Hairdressers Guide To Coloring Your Own Hair And Not Ruining It

hi beautiful I know a lot of us out here are well at our breaking points which means a lot of at-home haircuts at home hair color a lot of hair disasters everybody who wants to do something drastic to their hair right now in order to just feel something and I get it over the years I've watched so many color bleach fail videos I've learned a lot actually on what people are doing at home that is making their hair look so bad so that knowledge is gonna help me today bring you guys the basic knowledge of how to properly color your hair yourself at home I'm gonna debunk all this sort of myths I'm gonna tell you what things people are doing right what things people are doing wrong and make sure it doesn't fall off we'll go over everything from bleaching toning to aftercare and so much more however I will be going over the basics if I have hairdressers watching if I have anybody who's sort of advanced in the world of hair color this may be a bit too basic for you but for the average person you've come to the right place and just a little reminder this does not replace a professional hairdresser somebody who has studied color theory for years is gonna know a lot more than this but it is a guide during these tough times on how you can color your hair yourself and do it well maybe not amazing but well I hope and with that all steady guys let's learn some color theory let's do it are you ready get out your notepad or your phone and a pen or your finger and start taking notes alright because we're gonna go over a lot here and it is important that you listen listen to me it'll be like a fun class and like a cool teacher you know I'm like not like the rest of them first we're gonna go over how to prepare your hair for hair coloring otherwise known as the category prepare don't wash your hair before coloring it what you do when you wash your hair is you make tiny little abrasions on your scalp this is going to make coloring your hair very painful if using bleach that bleach is going to seep into those little tiny cracks in your scalp and it is going to sizzle and burn so please don't wash your hair before coloring it it is okay if there's product in your hair it's honestly fine it's really not a big deal the bleach will seep through everything okay bleach is super duper heavy-duty and it'll go through a little bit of you know hair spray and it'll get to the cortex of your hair it's not a big deal please don't wash your hair and also maybe if you're gonna bleach it don't wash it for several days that way you have a good amount of oil secretion on your scalp but to protect your scalp don't wash your damn hair this is pretty basic but make sure you cover your space cover your floor cover your counters cover yourself wear some old clothes brush out your hair please don't try and color your hair with a bunch of tangles in it get all those tangles out before going in with that color or else you're gonna have weird spotting from the tangles if your hairs like matted or anything in the back you're gonna end up coloring those matted pieces and they're gonna be all spotting everywhere it's not good brush your damn heads you're gonna also want to separate your hair into four sections here I'll show you on this many go in and just how you do that this is super basic sectioning method that every hair sauce uses on the daily super easy part your hair in the middle all the way back down to the nape of your neck that's your first section those are your two and then go to the apex you can find the apex by laying the comb on your head and finding the highest point of your head guys what you call the apex then make a section from the apex to behind the ears and those are your forest sections there it is voila you're gonna want to make sure your hair is dry don't apply color on wet hair unless you're trying to do like a bleach bath but that's another advanced thing okay we don't need to know about that today apply color to dry hair please don't put bleach on wet hair it doesn't really make any sense it's just gonna dilute your formula there's really no point all right make sure your hair is dry I also see a lot of people soaking their hair in excessive amounts of say coconut oil there's really no point of soaking your hair in coconut oil so bleach is just gonna eat through it all and it's not gonna matter that you have that oil on your hair strands it's not get rid of the oil it's not necessary and just make some mass in your hair just feels nasty and like really gross and greasy after welcome alright let's move on to category 2 how to mix mixing your bleach or your color you can do that properly all right this is a big big factor guess what you guys different developers actually do different things it's not a one size fits all I know a lot of people think that there's 10 20 30 and 40 volume for literally no reason and they just kind of take their guess on what they should use but actually there is a method to the madness I promise so let me just go over the very very basics of what each different developer does differently so we're gonna talk mostly today about two different categories you can either be doing a permanent color which is not bleach and bleach is bleach right so anything that doesn't have that white powder involved that's just color that's permanent color with the white powder that's bleach and then we'll also talk about toners later but just for now just know the differences between color and bleach let's go over a color first so if your coloring your hair that means you're not using any of that white powder stuff you have an option to use 10 20 30 or 40 volume if you're using 10 volume you're probably somebody who has any hair color and they're trying to go darker because when you're using 10 volume you're not gonna get any lightning effects so it's just gonna deposit tone onto your hair permanently but it's not gonna cover any Gray's now if you have Gray's and you have any hair color and you're trying to go darker and you're trying to also cover your Gray's I'm gonna use 20 volume it lifts it gets into the cortex of those Gray's and actually changes the color of your gray hair and all of your hair on your head and it lays there permanently so 20 volume is great for you now 30 and 40 volume with permanent color not bleach is typically used for high lift color which means maybe you are a natural this is important if you have color on your hair you cannot lift your hair color with more color so that means if you have dark brown hair and it's boxed I like that you can't then use a blonde box dye to lighten your hair you must use bleach just want to get that very clear you must use bleach to get your hair lighter if it's already colored but if your hair is natural if it is naturally brown and you've never colored it you can use a blond dye to make your hair blond now might come out a little bit orange you can also use bleach but you can also use a high lift color which is the color that lifts many levels so you're gonna want to use a 30 or 40 volume with that and orange get maximum lift with your blond color another thing that I would use 30 or 40 volume for is Red's you can use 30 volume if you're trying to get a very maxed out like bright right red or 40 volume if you really want to push it to the max max max and get like fuchsia going on in your head you can do that with permanent color without bleach if your hair has never been colored before now for those of you who are gonna use bleach so people who have already colored hair want to go lighter or people who have never colored their hair before and one against them max max right platinum blonde you're gonna want to use Lightner aka bleach that powder white stuff that you mix with developer okay now we don't use ten volume with bleach because it has no lifting capabilities again 10 volume just deposits and doesn't lift when I say lift I mean like the hair cuticle doesn't actually open that's what's lifting and then the color molecules actually go inside and volume it doesn't do that it lays pretty much on top slightly inside now 20 volume is for those of you looking for about one to two levels of lift if your highlighting your hair this is often a great developer to use for highlights otherwise 30 volume is pretty much my standard I pretty much use 30 volume on everybody in any lightening scenario it's pretty much my go-to and I highly recommend if you're gonna lighten your hair at any capacity use a 30 volume unless your hair is already like pretty light and you're only trying to go a little bit lighter 20 volume will work just fine now 40 volume I just say don't I don't feel like it does that much more than 30 volume to be honest with you I feel like it lightens very fast and then dies out very fast so I don't really recommend it to anybody I don't ever use it for pretty much anything I'm not a huge fan of 40 volume and if you're using 40 volume on your scalp it's probably gonna burn a lot and I would not recommend it you actually shouldn't really be using 30 volume on your scalp either but I never really found any problem with it and it's always been fine so 30 volume is pretty much the standard I highly recommend that with Lightner if you're trying to lighten your hair especially those of you with virgin hair who are trying to lighten your hair for the first time 30 volume will work great and if you're asking a little bribe what kind of bleach should I be using I mean it's all quite similar look for a nice one wherever your shopping or online there I don't know where ever you can get lighter at this point I'm sure it'll be fine I haven't found a gigantic difference between the different Leitner's I've used over the past if you have the right technique you can use any kind of later and you'll get a great result and also one last thing please read the directions every Lightner has a different mixing ratio they're very similar across the board but please mix your Lightner correctly to what the directions say it is important to mix correctly that way you get the maximum results from the lightener you're using let's go over our next category which is where to start with mixer color we prepared for at-home salon and our hair and now we're ready to actually apply the color so let's go over a permanent color first this is the stuff that's not bleached if you have virgin hair and you're trying to do an all-over color please start at the mid sections and ends and then later after you're done with that apply the root color because you have heat from your scalp I say this all the time you will get what's called hot roots which is when your root area develops more than your mids and ends and you end up with a sort of orange you warm color up there because of the heat from your scalp so please if you don't want orange fruits don't start with your roots so it's very similar with Lightner don't start your roots if you have virgin hair please don't or else your roots will end up white and your ends will end up like a yellow orange I would recommend probably just doing the mid links and ends first and then wait about 10 to 15 minutes until your hair is starting to develop and your hair has started to lighten and then go and hit your roots with the lightener at the end if you have pre-existing color and this is not your first time coloring your hair say you have very dark box dye color on your hair or just any dark color start off with the parts that are the darkest so if you have spots all around start off in those spots that are the darkest then move your way up still don't do your roots first unless you're doing like a retouch on existing hair don't starting a roots next we have application method this is where your work either turns into a masterpiece or a disaster this is actually one of the most important parts if not the most important part now listen I understand that none of you are going to use a brush probably none of you which is fine honestly it's fine as long as you're using these things correctly you'll be fine I swear you'll be all good to go first of all make sure you have gloves on it's really not good for your hands to put color all over them or real it'll dry them out forever permanent color is pretty simple mix it up put it on your head you can comb or brush it through I highly recommend that as you work through comb it make sure every single hair strand is applied to and now with bleach I'm gonna show you on Miss Maddie Quinn how much bleach you should be using okay I see this happen all the time where people do not use enough Lightner on their heads 90% of the time nobody uses enough you need a lot of Lightner in order to get the maximum results possible and less Lightner doesn't mean that your hair is going to light unless it just means that you're probably get spotting all over your hair if you don't want as much lightning power maybe you drop down the developer or maybe don't let it set in your hair as long if you don't why your hair to lighten as much don't go and put less liner that doesn't make any sense now as shown here on Miss many quinn my amazing client today we are gonna apply that light nur we're gonna start in the back if using permanent color or bleach start in the back it doesn't matter what you're using we're gonna want to do those first back two quadrants first start at the bottom and work your way up to that way all the color lays on top of itself as you work up and it doesn't become a total mess now this is how much lighter you should be using really coat it you can use your hands as I'm doing here really get it in there move the hair around and your palms really get it in and avoid that root area at all costs until you can go back around and do it all after and then once you're done with the entire back section you can work on the front section so once you're done applying the color on the entire head and set your timer for however long you're supposed to set it for now for Bleach I definitely recommend putting a bag over your hair spray a little water inside of it put it on your head and tie it really tight that way the water kind of gets a little bit steamy inside the bag you just don't want the lightener to dry out okay doesn't like dryness it likes moistness so make sure it's always moist another thing that I see a lot people try to lather the bleach like Shampoo bleach does not lather lather so stop trying to make that happen it's never gonna happen and also don't comb or brush through bolete your hair is in a very fragile state right now that tension is gonna be very bad and detrimental to the health of your hair don't do that so let's go over how long to leave the color on for for a permanent color you can leave on or whatever in the directions say every manufacturer has a different timeframe you leave the color on for it's usually 30 or 35 minutes and for bleach it's much more complicated it's gonna vary person-to-person if you have virgin hair though and you're trying to go really light leave on 45 to an hour okay nothing beyond an hour is gonna do anything else because the bleach ends up drying out after an hour basically don't leave it on for more than an hour nothing's gonna happen nothing I promise if you're trying to get platinum blonde hair leave it on your hair until it's kind of like white looking because usually once you rinse the lightener off and that kind of white cast comes off it ends up looking a lot more orange and yellowish when you rinse it off so Kaley yellow is what we're going for in order to get that very platinum blonde look and you can also wash out the back before the front because they started in the back we can wash that out so that it as an over process and the front and back end up as the same color so what's your timer is up maybe wash out the back first wait another 10 minutes and then rinse out the front and just overall make sure you monitor this process keep it a close eye on your hair make sure nothing's falling out if you're worried about anything falling out take a piece in the back kind of stretch it out a little bit pull on it if it's not breaking or not stretching ridiculous amount your hair is probably fine and you can leave it on a little bit longer and next we have cleansing and this is a dull category I see a lot of things gone wrong in the cleansing category and these videos I've seen one use lukewarm water okay don't use cold water to rinse off Lightner I know it's tempting it feels kind of good because your heads very hot but you don't want to do that because what's gonna happen is it's gonna shock your hair your hair was just expanded really wide in order to get all that artificial pigment out of your hair or natural pigment out of your hair when you shock it back it can cause breakage so make sure you rinse your hair with lukewarm water nothing too hot nothing do you call spray in the middle okay do not scrub your scalp it's very fragile this skin was just basically ripped off of it be gentle yet thorough don't use your nails you just like this just the tops your fingers okay be gentle be loving to your scalp it's doing a lot for you right now and just say thank you to it by just giving a little massage and most of the time it takes about two washes to get all the lightener out of your hair if you're using a lot of it sometimes your hair can be left that gritty feeling that's just because you didn't wash all the lightener out so wash it at least twice condition it very nicely and maybe do a little hair mask show it a little love you'll feel good up next evaluate the situation can your hair handle more bleach if an easy bleached again is it stringy is it falling out is your hair white white does it look like it can handle more light nerve the answer is no then don't do it if the answer is yes then do it okay it'll be fine and now is when you proceed with another round of light nur if you need to and now those that are doing permanent color and not using bleach you'll want to stop here you're at the end of your journey congratulations you've colored your hair properly people that are bleaching that there's more stuff to it okay it's a long process so next up we have owner toner is a tricky situation for a lot of you have noticed a lot of you are using permanent color as a toner no that's not a toner okay see permanent color like we went over before lifts and deposits it goes into the cortex of your hair toner lays on top you don't want to use permanent color when you're toning your hair again it's a very confusing thing to go over we're going over the basics just listen to me don't try to fight it okay just use a toner not a permanent copy don't use box side tone your hair okay don't go grab the icy blonde box dye and put her over your already blonde hair there's so much ammonia there's so much lifting in that box you don't need any lift at this point you've already lifted your hair to what it needs to be it's like pale yellow right now you don't need to then lift it further you're just gonna create so much damage for no reason Toder lays on top of the hair cuticle it's often mixed with anything below a 10 volume developer typically there is a toning developer that goes with the toners okay so look out for that t18 is not a toner it's a permanent color okay don't be using 20 volume with t18 in order to tone your blond hair no it's not good use a level 10 toner maybe an ash neutral one combined with a toning developer in order to turn your hair this will leave your hair feeling amazingly healthy it won't cause any damage it'll actually help some that damaged feel better and that's why we use a toner and not a permanent color when you're toning your hair opt for something that is at the same level as what your hair is right now or for something darker okay you can't go lighter with a toner you can only go darker or the same level so these are the levels right here the basics of it all a little one to ten one being the darkest ten being the lightest see what you are and then when you know what your level is say your level eight right now and you're trying to be more ash tone okay so you know you want to go with level eight then you about your color wheel okay it's not that complicated I swear just listen I know it sounds scary grab a color wheel if your hair is kind of looking a little orange you know go from that orange across the other side and you'll see across some orange is blue you're gonna want a blue based toner at a level eight in order to cancel out that orange you're seeing so you can use something like an eight na in order to cancel out that orange and get a beautiful level eight tone that looks sort of natural and almost salon quality purple shampoo is not a toner purple shampoo is to keep up with what you've done at the salon or at home it's not a toner don't use it to tone your hair it's not gonna work well you're gonna get spotting everywhere that's not what it's for and make sure you're leaving the toner on for the recommended amount of time and not longer and not shorter so using a level-10 toner on a level 8 head of hair see this is level 10 as level 8 it's not gonna work because there is no lifting agents there's nothing that's gonna hear her higher there's nothing that's gonna make your hair lighter toner doesn't make your hair lighter it just brings you to the right tone of that lightness that you have achieved with bleach consider doing a root end glaze you can look up pictures of that this is basically what it is it's when you do a darker toner on the top and a later one of the bottom hair naturally has darker tones at the top and later tons at the bottom typically we often do that in the salon to make a bit of a more natural look or to make a little root shadow so you can use like a level 8 on the roots and a level 10 on the ends and blend it all together it'll look amazing but that is definitely more of an advanced skill try it might not come out that good but don't blame me our next category finish and style at this point you're pretty much done okay you've rinsed off you blow dry it you have the most amazing beautiful hair ever evaluate okay is this where you want to be do you want to be lighter maybe you should wait a day maybe you should wait a week maybe you should wait six months to do it again maybe try to get her hair lighter or maybe it looks great how it is just to evaluate a situation and don't make any impulse decisions make sure you are gentle with your hair and using the proper products to take care and maintain your new color we have forcefield heat shield here and a Viper's smoothing oil he's gonna be great for maintaining color and keeping the integrity of your hair heat shield protects your hair up to five hundred degrees Fahrenheit and adds Pro vitamin b5 to strengthen and restore your hair this is great for people with colored hair or not colored hair people with any hair type or texture perfect for protecting against heat damage and the elements the oil it's gonna rehydrate your hair it's not gonna sit on top of your hair cuticle it's actually in a seep and deep into your cortex and rehydrate and restore your hair from the inside out great for after color please make sure you take care of your hair after color that's so important that way when you go back with color again the next time your hair is in pristine shape to then take more color and not become damaged that oh said you guys happy coloring and good luck please follow my directions took a while for me to put together and I hope you could pulley is learn a thing or two as much like I think it's fun seeing people do bad their hair I do really like how people and making them feel beautiful and learn and I love educating so this is a lot of fun for me I can't wait to see what you guys do hopefully some good stuff I'm sure there'll be some bad but hopefully some good do that is all for today guys thank you so much freakin watching me today follow me on all the damn social media is we have snapchat Facebook Twitter Instagram tic toc at brand mondo NYC follow my hair care brand X amount of hair for new products coming out and that's all for today guys thank you so much for watching don't forget to live your extra life I'll see you next time guys hi beautiful this is Project X our everyday conditioner Project X is gonna give you that basic hydration your hair needs with all the necessary nutrients so it's still nice and fluffy it's still beautiful and flowy and has that lightweight hydration and shine your hair is craving and this is Project X our everyday conditioner

Channel: Brad Mondo

Views: 10,320,145

Rating: 4.9591045 out of 5

Keywords: Hairdressers Guide To Coloring Your Own Hair And Not Ruining It, bradmondo, hair dye, how to colour your hair at home, bleaching my hair, Coloring hair at home, bradmondonyc, hairdresserreacts, hair coloring, how to dye your hair at home, how to color your hair at home, how to, tips and tricks, hair color tips, at home hair dye, how to color your hair, brad mondo, dying my hair, highlights at home, how to color hair at home, at home hair color, hair tutorial

Id: 98dPekpSVGQ

Length: 22min 34sec (1354 seconds)

Published: Thu Apr 02 2020