TUTORIAL | BLEACH & TONE | Full Application & Processing + FORMULATION

[Music] hey guys here's a little sneak peek into what we'll be doing today get your notebook get your popcorn or whatever your favorite stacks are because this is a long one if you have problems with bleaching tones and I suggest you stay tuned don't forget you can follow me at Christy at the cottage on Instagram to stay up to date with all my posts check out that grow out okay here's my client before we get started okay I'm so excited when my favorite little Blondie's is here I will show you the hair that we've done in the past um she had gone to see another stylist just because she lives down south for me and it was easier for her to get in with somebody else but she wasn't really happy with the hair that they had done so now she's back and we're gonna do her hair and fix her up and I'm really hoping that we have a good outcome with our transformation that we're gonna do because we're used to being really platinum and bright blonde so we're hoping that's the same result we can get today but we do have some dark color that we have to look through so we'll just see what we can accomplish also I did her hair probably a few months ago just kind of like a test run since I hadn't done it and so long just to see what her hair was capable of doing and how would it lift would there be damage and her hair felt pretty decent to be able to move on with this process so that's where we are at today for lightening I'm using Schwarzkopf blondie with 20 volume and olaplex and I love that this has a Bond enforcer included in the lightener so I feel like I'm getting double protection okay to section off I'm actually gonna start in the back normally if I was doing just a typical double process with somebody coming in for a retouch I would start up at the top but because we have like 12 inches I'm just kidding but because we have so many inches of grow out I figured that it's easier to start in the back because by the time I get my way to the top of the head this is already gonna be sitting for a couple hours so I'd rather be able to rinse it out at the shampoo bowl and not have to worry about the top section like getting in her face if I already have Lightner on it so I figure that the easiest way to go about this if somebody is starting fresh with a bleaching tone and they have dark hair and they've never done it before I highly recommend starting in the back I feel like you can get a cleaner lightening process it's not gonna be as messy if you can just like pin the hair in the front to the sides and wash it out once you get the back done I feel like that's the best bet because if you bleach all of the back and then honestly that took about probably an hour and a half to two hours to do this back section by the time I get to the top of her head it's already been sitting for so long so imagine having to do the whole sides and the top I mean that could be potentially four hours that the bleach is sitting on the hair that's way too dangerous and I'm just not comfortable with that so I personally would like to start in the back let it process for a little bit and then wash it out and then start on the sides so take that into consideration if you ever do a process like this it's better to be safe than sorry so I'd rather have it take a little bit longer and make sure that I'm not going to damage the hair and start in the back [Music] [Music] [Music] pay attention to how thin of a section I am taking normally I feel like if somebody's not getting good clean the even lift then they're probably taking too thick of a section look how you can see through the hair to the foil if you cannot see through the hair than your sections too big it's not gonna lift fast enough it's gonna be too warm so make sure you're taking paper thin sections yes it will take quite a while to do the surface but you're gonna get better lift you're gonna have a better end result so take your time with this service know that it's gonna take all day and that's okay just make sure you're charging accordingly and your clients will be happy because in the end they're getting the result that they want another thing to pay attention to is look how thick I'm laying on the bleach if you can see the hair at all then your bleach isn't thick enough you need to make sure that you're really saturating the hair you do not want to skimp out on bleach when you're doing a bleaching process like this you want to make sure that you have heavy saturation do not let the bleach dry out make sure that you insulate your sections too that way it has enough heat that it can process really well especially when you get to the mid-shaft and the ends if it's not insulated you're gonna have a lot of warm undertones because it's just not gonna light and good enough because it doesn't have that heat like the scalp does so make sure that you're insulating your sections whether it's with foil or saran wrap or whatever you want to use and make sure that you're using tons of bleach I think with this client we ended up having to refill our bleach like eight to ten times so it takes a lot of Lightner but just don't feel bad if you're using tons of bleach because that again is gonna help you get the best result and then also look at the brush that I'm using I think it's like the Big Daddy by frame are it's an extra wide base of a brush so I feel like I can get my sectioning down a little bit better instead of having a smaller brush and then having to work a little bit harder services like these that are gonna take a long time you want to make sure that you have the best tools for the job because otherwise it can really just make it drag on even longer so I'm using this brush and then also there there will be times that I have a board that I pull out that works really well because sometimes when you're doing the service and you're using your hand to stabilize the hair or the foils it can cause your hand to cramp out really bad so using a board against the back of the head helps preserve the strength of your hand and to prevent it from hurting as bad and then also you can make sure that when you're using the board you can press down a little bit harder to make sure that you're pushing the bleach through you're really making sure you're mushing it through the hair to triple-check that you're getting great saturation again [Music] right in here's I'm pulling the hair out you can see right there where that darker shadow is that's the permanent color that we're trying to break through so at this point I'm kind of worried because I really don't know if we're going to be able to lift past that or if it's gonna leave a whole bunch of brassiness or orange tones in the hair and this is just something that you need to conversate with your client that the lifting process is a mystery you have no idea really what its gonna do or what it's capable of doing so always keep an open line of communication with your clients and just tell them like we can do the service but just know that you do have previous color on the hair and that's gonna alter the end result of your hair there might be some areas where you're gonna have really great lift and you're gonna get really bright but then there could be areas where it's still really warm so just be honest and open with them and let them know that this is what could potentially happen and then you can discuss how to go about it after you've done with your lightning service you can see what would be the best way to go about toning but just make sure you tell them ahead of time like if you have any dark tones in your hair then chances are you will still have a little bit of warmth [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] here's the whole back section that we did and I let this sit for probably about thirty minutes at this point right here before we went and washed out so throughout this whole time I was keeping an eye through the bottom half just because obviously I've been sitting for such a long time so right now we are going to wash out the back half of her head [Music] oh my god you guys I swear my biggest fear is when I'm pulling the foils out like this and like a chunk of hair just like comes off with it I would die after I wash her out and putting on a really good amount of olaplex so that way that has time to recover her hair after the lightening process [Music] now we are moving on to the sides up to the top and this is where it gets a little bit tricky because previously in this area I have done like some facial framing highlights and stuff so I have to be extra cautious here to make sure that I'm pulling aside some of those little baby fine foils that I had done like right here I'm setting and aside because I don't want to run it through the ends so make sure that you're taking the time to find any really bright hair that's already been lightened like pull it aside to the foil make sure you're getting the root but just don't drag it through the ends you really want to try and prevent any breakage from happening as much as possible [Music] [Music] [Music] and now we're just going to repeat the same steps on the other side and look how orange that hair still is that boggles my mind how much warmth there is through the bleaching process it's also kind of funny to watch your clients freak out when they think that's what it's gonna look like [Music] okay now that I have the sides processing I'm gonna go through and do her routes from when I applied first in the beginning of the appointment and I left it about a quarter inch to an inch off the scalp and there are some areas when I was using the board that I got a little bit closer and maybe it swelled a little bit more so right now I'm gonna go through and make sure that I get her roots really nicely and make sure here again also that you're taking very thin sections first get the bottom part of the hair and then lay that part down and get the top that way you can make sure you're getting again even saturation [Music] [Music] I know you can't hear it but constantly through this part of the service when I'm a plane it actually to her scalp I am constantly asking her how does your scalp fill does your hair feel like it's burning how are you feeling is your scalp bothering you you want to make sure that your client is comfortable that her scalp isn't irritated because some clients could get blisters some people can get a really bad scalp irritation chemical burn you really really really want to be safe and cautious that your client is comfortable obviously it's gonna be a little bit tingly and kind of irritating at times but you want to make sure for the most part that it's something that they can handle and that it's not too uncomfortable and that it's causing damage also I wouldn't recommend going over 20 volume on the scalp I rarely ever ever use anything over 20 volume so definitely make sure that you're just using 20 volume on the scalp to prevent any irritation and then also the more you start combing through the hair and handling the hair the more it's gonna start you're taping the skull because now you're bringing like stimulation and everything so just try once you put the lightener on the hair don't touch it unless you absolutely have to that way it doesn't irritate them you know as as least as possible [Music] [Music] now we're moving over to the top section and working our way down because we've already gone through and done her mid-shaft I think it's really easy to just section the hair take the foil and kind of like flip it over and have the hair lay on top of that that way your sections stay really clean just kind of pull the foil down a little bit that way it exposes the roots and then you can constantly just keep flipping the foil over to insulate the hair this is a good way to prevent the hair from falling on their face from having the bleach fall everywhere the hair flop all over the place and get Lightner just any in everywhere all over they get all over the cape and everything so this is gonna help the hair stay insulated also you're going to get a better lift because of this and your application is just going to look a lot neater overall [Music] another thing that would be wise at this point is to ask your client to close their eyes just because it's kind of hard to see beyond the foil and sometimes the bleach gets a little bit watery and as it's processing it can start swelling and potentially like dripping so right in this part I would just say ask your clients to close their eyes just when you're applying the lightener that way you don't accidentally fleeing anything into their eye and you know you don't want to be liable for anything like that so just another word to the wise [Music] okay now that I'm done I'm playing at her roots on one side I honestly should have waited to do this part until I was done applying to the roots on the other side but I had to start flipping all of the foils back over so that I could get the other side of the head but when I was starting to flip her hair I was wanting to run it through with the brassy areas and check some of the areas where she previously had bleach at just to make sure that those baby fine highlights that you had talked about before weren't getting damaged so at this point I am just making sure that I'm pulling off the lightener just to be safe from those little delicate areas [Music] so your roots here are already done like I just put on it sorry I'm not gonna worry about it I was just how to feel it make sure I know but my goal is to not have breakage so Italy prepares a crisis that I will pay the piper I know what I've done to myself yeah like I will take my consequences Oh let me get like into here maybe I won't care as much but like right on the hairline you know what I mean that let it melt off it might be time-consuming you guys but I can guarantee you that your clients will always appreciate the fact that you're making sure that you're keeping the integrity of their hair a priority and trying to prevent as much damage as possible [Music] [Music] I will say that there is something to be said for stylists that have OCD or are very meticulous with their work is that the quality of their work is amazing [Music] this is like my problem I always see these like how to finish this part as you're going through and flipping the hair back over to the other side now is a good time to go ahead and do some spot checking and just top the hair in areas that might be a little bit brassy still and just hit it with some bleach so that it kind of works through those brassy areas as we're gonna go through the back now and try to break through this brassiness I like to spray the hair down first because it kind of helps the bleach work through a little bit better and also take your sections and go vertically instead of horizontally because then you can double check your work and open the hair up and see if there's any dark holes in the hair that maybe you missed with bleach there's never a problem with checking air work we all make mistakes even if we don't want to acknowledge it so make sure you're going through and checking your work as best as you can and just keep a little eye on it to see if you need to just touch it up in any areas now would be the time to do it right now I'm basically taking the leftover bleach from when I had applied at the roots in the last section and it's been sitting for quite a while at this point I'm just spraying the hair down because it makes it easier for the lightener to spread and we just want to apply the bleach in these brassy areas not anything that's going to be like a fresh bowl of bleach because we don't want to damage the hair and cause any breakage but just something that's strong enough even if it's pretty weak because any bleach at this point it's going to sit for probably like maybe 15-20 minutes or so and that's usually strong enough that it will just help blast through these areas of warmth and get you to the level where you're ready to rinse [Music] [Music] [Music] here you can see that made such a difference just letting it sit for about 20 minutes or so we were able to push through that warmth and now we're gonna go take her to the shampoo bowl and let her sit with finola no yellow shampoo for about 10 minutes I highly recommend you use these products for treatments on the hair especially when during services like this okay my client literally has been processing for five or six hours with bleach other hair but so many different steps she just got done sitting with the olaplex and the acidic milk milk rinse on her hair and so hopefully that helped like balance her hair out so it doesn't grab too much in certain areas right now we're going to mix her toner and we talked about it because she does have a previous band of color that she had on her hair there is some areas where it's like a little warm still so I asked her if she wants to tone for the brightest blonde or a little bit darker to try to minimize the warmth and I think we're just gonna tone for the brightest blonde and hopefully it will mask the warmth as much as possible so we will see here's what I'm toning with for her hair this 10 AAA is a new color that just came out and I am obsessed with it and also don't forget your drops of rose gold or just gold in general but the DEM I has rose gold that's going to help balance all of the tones so that way you don't get any of the ashy or violet e tones grabbing in the extra pores here and causing it to go muddy or just a little bit too ashy in certain areas I let this sit for about 15 minutes here's your before again and I am so excited for her after I would not let her look into the mirror until I was finally done the prayers to Jesus but that's just okay like it's gonna be so warm all this stuff oh my god there is a little bit of warmth to be honest just kind of where the permanent color was from the line but it doesn't like crazy stand out yeah yeah I'm in shock believe it I don't know what they say this is perfect look at that oh my god and it feels so long yeah we only had a trim like a little inch but you can see here is kind of where that dark no I think it would be if you straighten your hair a little bit but if it's kind of curled it kind of mimics like a shadowy look to it but I think it's fine though it looks good [Music] yeah this is insane I do not think this is gonna have an add-on today I know it's so good it's crazy good crazy good thank you guys so much for watching again I appreciate your time if you watch the full thing if you have anything that you learn please leave it in the comment section below if you have any tips that you want to share please tell us all also another thing to please tell your clients is to not use heat over 330 or 340 to prevent any burning or brassiness in the hair thanks again you guys and don't forget to Like and subscribe

Channel: hair by Kristi Jennings

Views: 184,408

Rating: 4.8954868 out of 5

Keywords: how to bleach and tone, how to bleach & tone, tutorial how to bleach and tone, how to do platinum blonde hair, how to get icy blonde hair, dark hair To Platinum Blonde, how to get dark hair platinum blonde, steps how to bleach hair, bleach & tone full application & processing +formulation

Id: M48U1br59HI

Length: 34min 34sec (2074 seconds)

Published: Sat Jun 13 2020