FREE Diesel Trench Compactor Brought back from the Dead!

wow [Music] what's up everybody welcome back to diesel creek my name is matt this frankenstein looking heavy metal contraption here is a ram axe trench compactor that i got for free a couple years ago now this is the third and i hope final video on this project it has been hogging up my garage for way too long if you have not seen the previous videos on this unit they are down in the description below the link to those and you should definitely go check those out so you can kind of catch up to where we are right here right now assuming you're not listening to me at all and you're continuing to watch this video basically i got this thing off of a job site a couple years ago for absolutely free they were going to throw it into a scrap dumpster so i drug it home here diagnosed the original engine to have a bad rod bearing as well as some other issues this is a german-made ferryman diesel that powers this unit and they are hard to come by in this country coincidentally about the same time i drug this home the company went out of business lucky me long story short i found another engine brought it home here had the exact same problems with it as the first one so before i even bothered to try and install it i rolled that one out and went back on the hunt and eventually came up with this military surplus ferryman diesel now it is the same model engine however it is a different suffix model so there's a few things that were different on it there was no fuel tank i had to use a fuel tank from one of the parts engines i had to change out the starter and the engine came with a bad fuel injection pump so in the last video we switched all that out got it all mounted on here and about the time i got it mounted on here and ready to go i realized that this engine did not have a stator for to charge the electric start battery on this unit to put a stator on here i would need to remove the engine again take the flywheel and stator components off of the original engine and put them onto this engine so the head that's on our military surplus engine is configured a bit differently port wise from the head that was on the original engine here now i think that i should be able to swap the original head barring that there's anything wrong with it i don't think there is but i think i can swap it and put it onto this engine that would be ideal because then i can bolt right up the original intake and the original exhaust on this unit and brother let me tell you the exhaust on this thing is necessary this thing is so definitely loud when i test ran it without a muffler on it it was an osha violation for sure so i think we should be able to tackle those two issues fairly easily i think swapping that head out should be pretty straightforward i'm hoping anyways that the original one fits on here i think it will i have no way to know that the last issue we have is going to be back here the battery box area there's some brains of the operation in here and there's some wiring issues and we're going to have to figure those out but the key switch needs replaced and some other odds and ends well unfortunately i guess one of the first things we need to do here is undo pretty much everything we did in the last video so [Music] one bolt left to get down here and currently there is no space to get a wrench or a socket onto it uh i guess maybe an angle head wrench would fit in there but luckily we can just lift her up like so and slip something on there all right well this may just be a little one cylinder engine but let me assure you this bugger is quite heavy and i about hurt myself the last time i picked it up and put it on here so in the interest of saving my uh my nuggets i'm gonna slide it off onto this plate that i've rigged up here and hopefully it holds why are you being so difficult well don't i feel like an idiot i've been sitting here pulling and pulling on this engine the whole time and i know that there's this oil drain here that has to clear the frame and i knew for sure that it was clear of the frame and i thought that was all i had to clear so i didn't even bother to look finally come down here to look i forgot the flywheel case goes down that far and i'm an idiot i bet you if i get that flywheel case up and over the frame batch of the engine slides right off hey look at that it comes right off now who to thunk it look at that [Music] hey [Music] now that we've learned that lesson go ahead we got to pull this coupling off of here and then remove the nut and then try to get the flywheel off i think i might have had this one off for some reason but i really don't remember why that's not good that's really not good and the beatings will continue until the morale improves so we just rounded off this last bolt here in the drive coupling now that was a metric bolt so i get the next size up which in this case happens to be a 5 16 and a standard and just give her a little love tap and with any luck that bolt will come out of there and we can replace it say a prayer for me well i've shed my last tier over it it's time for plan c i got a miller 252 here is what i'm using aka the big blue hot glue gun and i tell you what i love this welder this thing gets rowdy all right i'll let that little mama cool down for a minute and i'm betting it'll spin right out of there all right it's maybe cooled down in 30 seconds or a minute look at that quarter inch drive pulls it right out of there after them heat cycles well i'm glad we got that out of there at least we can replace this thing now [Music] now you just know this thing's going to be metric so hopefully i have a metric socket that size if not we'll have to play the game of hope it crosses to standard man this thing barely even grunted oh we got some tension on there now i just should be able to give her a couple whaps and hopefully it pops off that's what i like to see there we go oh boy all right oh that's interesting i've never seen that before it has two spring washers behind the flywheel all right let's see will we have a repeat of the last one no there we go two wax isn't too bad all right there's the bugger we're after right there so we need to figure out how to remove this stator and if we can remove these magnets and install them in the original flywheel i'd like to do that wow greasy thing probably cut me all right well that's what we needed right there well if it ain't one thing it's five more there's where we just removed the stator from there's where we would like to bolt it do you guys see the problem so yeah unfortunately our bearing plate here is not drilled for a stator that is a real bummer and i'm kind of on the fence about swapping bearing plates because i would have to change the bearings and the seals because those seals are slobbering like crazy and the bearings have had metal run through them so obviously you'd have to switch to these bearings and seals probably tear up the seal in the process could probably change the bearing without destroying it but man is it worth it or do you just put a solar tender on this thing and charge the battery all the time that really sucks i'll pull the bearing plate off the parts motor and look at it and see we'll see what i think then there we go that's the governor assembly off the back of the crankshaft and we had to do that so that we can slide the crankshaft out your auntie with that make sure you dump diesel fuel everywhere i had to go run and get special bolts for this so i hope it works [Music] and it did so i'm pretty happy about that that's like some sort of a taper lock or something i've never never seen one quite like that but look at that pops right off of there interesting i guess changing that bearing plate wouldn't be too awful bad by the looks of it i'm almost ashamed to admit it but i referenced the book and i determined that the crankshaft end play which is determined by the shim pack behind this bearing plate we're supposed to have between five and fifteen thousands of crankshaft and play so we're set on zero here and watch this that looks like 67 67 a little more than that because our zero moved yeah so that ain't good i guess we're gonna pull this cover off of here and see what we can do about swapping everything over well i didn't even get to do anything and i was installing our puller bolts here and this locking piece here i don't know what you'd call this it's not really a taper lock i don't know seal ring maybe anyways it was already falling out so that could have been some of our issue with the camshaft and or crankshaft in play you're probably supposed to measure that with the flywheel and flywheel nut and everything installed because that tightens this whole thing up but that presents quite a bit of problem because that's quite a bit of work to mount all that up there check your end play find out it's wrong and then tear it all back apart to fix it so all right there's a little teeny o-ring in here too up against the outer bearing race we have to keep track of that guy and i think we're ready to go ahead and pull this bearing plate now [Music] one thing that sucks about using these pusher bolts not that we have any choice here but these pusher bolts will inevitably are going to tear up the shim pack a little bit so everything looks good in here we didn't tear up our shim pack too bad i'll just put a dab of gasket sealer on those there where the bolts contacted and now we get to try and swap out this bearing without hurting anything it's got retainers so that makes me think that it's probably not in there super tight but yeah still gonna be a chore well the next step here is trying to remove this seal without tearing it up which is proving to be extra difficult i would just replace it but we seem to be in some sort of geographical oddity we're two weeks from everywhere and i'd like to get this put back together i don't want to speak too soon but it actually does seem like we're getting this seal out of here without tearing it up i'm sure i just jinxed myself by saying that oh look at that it actually came right out didn't even bend it that is impressive now let's hope we can get this bearing out of here without tearing it up there we go i will just repeat this process with the dirty nasty bearing plate that is drilled and tapped for our stator [Music] well hot dang we got the new old bearing plate reassembled here and i found the date code on it says 9 7 of 92 so that's pretty neat this thing is almost as old as i am the bearing plate off the surplus engine does not have a date code that i can see all right well here's where the rubber is going to meet the road so to speak i'm going to put a little bit of number two gasket maker on these couple spots where the gaskets have been fouled up a bit hopefully that seals her up good so add our teeny little o-ring thing here i don't i've never seen anything quite like this i'll put that in there so [Music] so torqued well i hope you guys can read this gauge and i hope i can still show it on camera but i think we are right within spec here so if i pull out on the flywheel i'm hitting around 10 when i shove it back in we go to well just past zero so one so yeah we're right within spec i think we're at about nine thousands we're allowed five to fifteen so we're good and a quick correction for you fellers that i know pay sharp attention this is a metric engine and i was saying thousands so i read the table as thousands just because i'm so used to the imperial measurements and was actually .05 millimeters to .15 millimeters so i converted that and we are still well within spec oh that aspect of this project is done we're going to now gonna turn our attention [Music] to the head which so all righty oh i almost forgot there's an oil return line down here on the bottom we have to remove that thing i think that hem me up in the very first video too so now of course you can't just come straight in there with a socket this uh pin that holds the rocker arms in place blocks your uh your access so i have to drive that up and out good enough to get a socket on it all right well with that nut off if i'm not mistaken i think the whole head will come off i think the whole head will come off there we go things are happening now bye golly come on there we go look at that there's our head looking beautiful sweet alright so i just noticed that the lens is actually well the lens protector is cracked so hope that hasn't been driving you guys and that's this whole time i gotta get a new one of those put on there anyways this is our heads compared right next to each other this is the one we just took off this is the original head off the original engine that we're trying to put on and the only thing that i noticed that's different here i measured the inset for the bronze gasket or whatever you want to call that i did notice that this injector has three nozzles on it and this one has four um so i think we're going to keep this for right now and just not touch anything and then maybe after we prove that this is a good running unit again then we could switch out the injector i would think four nozzles should be a more efficient spray pattern and should maybe run a little bit better when i removed this head the push rods fell out before i could take note of which side was the exhaust and which side was intake obviously on the head i can figure that out but the push rods are two different lengths one's like um eighth inch shorter than the other one and then over here on the engine where the push rods set in at i'm not positive of which side is which there but i'm gonna do some deductive reasoning and hopefully i can figure that out well once again saved by the junk horde this is the engine that i bought as a replacement but did not end up using because it was also about to blow i can pull the valve cover here and easily see that which side goes where the top one is the intake bottom one is exhaust valve so looks like left is exhaust right is intake all right i'm just completely winging it at this point these are four different push rods the two on the left are from the yellow head from the original engine the two on the right are from the green head from the replacement engine now we're putting the yellow head on so i guess i'm just going to go with the left set i'm just winging it but it should all work out all right well through some deductive reasoning here i do believe that i have figured out where our push rods need to go so if you just look at the setup here we got one that's just a like an eighth inch longer than the other one now one push rod comes nearly straight up and the other one is on a long angle so so we're going to put the longer one on the long angle and that should compensate for leaning like it is moment of truth on this guy things are looking good oh yeah i guess for the cylinder head we should probably go ahead and use an actual torque wrench instead of just winging it with the impact so here goes nothing before you even try to make it all the way up to the torque spec i usually go around nice and easy a few times that way you're bringing the head down evenly and i'm just doing that by feel just going a little bit and seeing how much pressure i'm putting on the wrench and you just work nice and even and you'll feel different pressures on the different bolts as you do this and then at some point you'll hear the little click and you know you're there now there's also half step torquing and stuff where you can set your wrench up to go half of the torque spec first and that's you bring it down to half evenly and then you dial her up to three quarters or even all the way there we go first one's torqued second one third guy yeah last but not least perfect now we're going to throw our rocker arms on here and set the valves goes like so click all right so setting these valves is pretty straightforward here um you've got a lock nut over here you've got a threaded adjustment here and then the gap that you measure is between the rocker arm and the top of the valve stem there and we are really really loose right now so the spec on this is 0.1 millimeter and man that's we gotta we gotta go ways to tighten that up but anyway first you have to set the engine to the compression stroke at top dead center basically what you're looking for is the valves to not be moving when you spin the engine a little bit so that there's uh no inaccuracy in your adjustment here so crack this first guy loose you don't need to crack it that far loose basically we'll just run this guy down run this guy down till it touches and back it off a turn in our case and with the feeler gauge you're just gonna tighten that up until you can just get the feeler gauge to slide in there but it'll have some drag to it so that guy's perfect right there now holding the screwdriver still tighten the lock nut up check our clearance again saying it backed off a little bit we got a little bit of extra clearance in there now so perfect lock that guy down check it again the exhaust valve is the same spec there we go yep that feels about perfect now in our case we have done some frankenstein cobbling here we've got parts from different series of engines all scrambled together so it's in our best interest to go ahead and spin this engine a few times make sure all the clearances are copacetic and then recheck our valve lash uh in the interest of making sure we don't have any catastrophic failures when we try to fire this thing up well this thing isn't going to give me anything without a uh without a struggle here so i was getting ready to put our valve cover back on here now this is the valve cover that belongs to this head and there is the oil return line port on the valve cover so the banjo bolt that goes into the valve cover is this size the hose that goes back to the block is tapped for that size so i had to get a little creative here i wasn't going to go get a special hose made for it i just chopped both of the hoses in half so this is the hose off of the surplus engine this is the hose from the original engine and i got a little bit creative and i went down to the hardware store there and created a special double barb that uh we can just scab these back together that's just a low pressure no pressure return line anyhow so there's what it looks like when we're done frankensteining that together now we should be able to install our valve cover i had to switch the plastics out because surprise surprise the modern one wouldn't work with this head [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so [Music] okay well the engine is finally all back together um all that's really left to put on the machine itself is a couple covers and we're just about ready to try to bleed the system and fire this thing up but we do have this pesky little thing to deal with here called wiring so the original key switch to the unit is right here it was broken off and mangled and i don't know where to find a replacement for that sucker but i just grabbed the generic lawn mower type key switch and i think that this should work just fine for what we're doing well it took me a minute but i hacked the wires out of the old ignition here and basically what we have to do now is just connect the battery and find out which one of these is hot all the time i'm guessing red and then i'm guessing yellow is going to be key on ignition and then green is going to be start but these are all just guesses and this wiring is all spliced in here somebody did it god knows when for their little retro fit so not the original key switch anyways i got a brand new battery for this thing let's go ahead and stab it in here i hope you can tell but there is just copious amounts of room to work in here it's not tight at all or anything all right slide this guy in here the rest of the way just like so yeah so theoretically now we should have power at one of these wires here grab the meter and check that out so there we go we got 13 volts on the red nothing on green nothing on yellow so reds are hot all the time now we need to figure out which one of these is crank and which one of these is start easiest way to do that just touch them real quick there we go that's green must be the crank yellows whatever else on the circuit okay the ignition switch is hooked up oh bubby it actually feels like it's going to start really easy i'm excited [Music] uh even our indicator light comes on that's good okay we're just about there we're just about ready to try to fire this thing up but the last thing we need to do now is we're gonna have to crank the engine over until the lift pump shoves fuel up to the injector line here and this is our actual injector pump on this unit we'll cinch that nut tight when we start getting fuel bubbling out of there and then we will bleed it down here at the actual injector last and then it should just pop right off i'm gonna go ahead and crank the engine over you guys holler when you see some fuel there contact i see some fuel so so all right i think we got enough fuel coming out cinch this tight and it should fire up now all right this one's for all the marbles guys it should start up i don't see any reason it won't and if it does we're gonna pilot it towards the door so we can get the exhaust blown outside and not suffocate in here here we go contact do that is awesome this thing sounds like it's running great uh it functions perfectly the battery is charging i'd have been really mad if we did all that work to switch those bearing plates out and add the stator and it didn't charge so i'm really happy to see that and i don't see any reason why we can't go ahead and finish slapping this thing together [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] well i think that's a perfect illustration of why i had to cut that this thing pretty much fell into place with this out of the way [Music] well that engine cover has not been on there since i've owned this machine it was just sitting on there all caddy wampus whenever i got it and now i see why it would not fit on there correctly i had to notch this for the starter bump because as you can see it sticks out quite a bit i don't know if this is just not the original starter or what the issue is it almost looks like if you clocked the starter towards the block a little bit more it would have cleared but there's just no way to do that [Music] [Music] all right this baby's done [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] so now that we have this thing all together and completed let's go ahead and try to pack a little bit of gravel here i hope this is going to be a good illustration of how this thing functions and works and how well it does its job because it does pack very well these rocks have already been run down a little bit but like over here near this mud puddle i just kind of tossed them out there they haven't really been run in yet so hopefully you guys will be able to tell how much this thing really packs the rock [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] just for giggles i want to see if it'll push this car i kind of don't think it will but the car is in park and uh i think it's got at least one flat tire so we'll see what kind of traction this little thing's got well all right guys i'd call that a pretty successful first test run here i'm very happy with the performance of this unit and it seems to be running and operating great i think in the last video i said i was going to paint this unit when i was done with it but i don't know i'm not really a clean paint kind of guy you look around here everything's kind of yeah i got a couple things i'm trying to keep nice and make nice but something like this i think it kind of it earned its stripes and it's uh wearing them proudly i think people talk a lot about patina in vehicles and cars and trucks and all that but equipment has patina too i really kind of like the way this thing looks it's kind of scarred and rusty and you can tell it's been road hard and put up wet but it's still out here entering its keep now so tonight it's gonna get to sleep right next to all my other compactors and uh i have another tool in the tool belt anyways i guess that about wraps this one up if you like the video don't forget to give it a thumbs up really helps the channel out doesn't cost you guys a thing and of course if you're not subscribed be sure you hit that subscribe button so i can see you on the next episode i got a lot of cool projects coming up here in the future so if you stick around you're going to see this and many other of my machines i've brought back from the dead working right here behind me out here at the farm anyways guys i'll catch you on the next video later i wonder if i can ride this thing come with me and you'll see the world of osha violations [Music] so [Music] you

Channel: Diesel Creek

Views: 679,017

Keywords: rammax, plate, compactor, pad, foot, sheep, Multiquip, ferrymann, diesel, 43e, 43f, restoration

Id: j7DvetQ8rII

Length: 55min 10sec (3310 seconds)

Published: Mon Dec 06 2021