Ford 5.4L 3v Triton Engine Removal & Installation Part 2 of 2: Engine Prep and Installation

you [Music] there it is the old engine is out as you can imagine that as the hardest part of the engine are in our process I mean think about it you're dealing with gaskets they're sticking different components they're sticking fluids leaking everywhere and then there's the rust that darn rust especially if you live in a salt out of America these vehicles are 10 to 15 years old by now guess what you're me fighting bolts all on the way especially the engine mount bolts and nuts the exhaust bolts and then you know the other common area is the power steering pump bowl set like the C's and snap which happened on this one so you just be ready for it you're gonna be fighting it all along the way now at this point with the engine out of the vehicle what you want to do is put it on the ground on a rag just like this it does help stabilize it believe me and then what you want to do is use a 4 by 4 block of wood and a 2 by 4 block of wood or 2 by 6 as you see here and put it under the front part of the pan and that makes kind of like an engine stand and it'll make it really really secure okay it'll be nice and steady and secure and safe or swapping over all these old external components from the old engine to the new engine okay so that looks a little something like this in the end as complete as possible going back into the truck okay so I'm gonna do now is we're gonna go through a different components you want to swap over to the new engine and then we're gonna go through torque specs and what to look for if you are reusing the old components as you can see most of the pieces on here are new I'll show you a couple different areas you want to watch out for and how to do it right so this engine last as long as possible inside and out ok so the first thing I want to talk about is the base remanufactured engine itself you know what comes in the black box from the engine rebuilder now a company that I use is called powertrain products they're based out of Maryland and the reason why I use them is because I've had really good luck with them over the years I've installed a bunch of their engines and a few of their transmissions and I've had zero problems afterwards that's huge that's key with me to get the job done one and be done it's good for me and it's good for my customers not to mention if the problem does arise down the road these have a really good base warranty and then you can also buy an extended warranty up to seven years no-fault warranty which is incredible now of course all these engines include the upgrades to address the common issues in the five four three valve the oiling issues so it has the Mellen oil pump inside the cast iron chain tensioners it heads are line board and then they add cam bearings in there to address the clearance issues in the heads all relating back to the oiling issues and most of these will include the Dorman XD phasers which is a heavy duty new phasers that Dorman came out with about a year or two ago what you're holding up much better than an original phaser and then some of them will also include the Ford phaser so it's just kind of a hit and miss thing if you call in maybe you can ask for it and try to get the Ford phasers but the Dorman XD phasers are holding up as well now one thing you need to realize is once you get the engine it's gonna have a be fully complete long block timed alright a good go valve train you know crankshaft everything ready to go you'll have the front cover on there already bolted on for sure and you'll also have the engine oil pan bolted on now the thing with the oil pan is that there's different variations of the oil pan up front here maybe indent in the front to accommodate the front axle on certain models and then like this right here you know for no five models have an engine oil temp sensor so you need to make sure the new pan matches your old one if it doesn't you simply clean up your old one and swap it over up top here same thing valve covers it may or may not come with valve covers on there it depends on the manufacturer and their run that they're doing so again if it doesn't have valve covers on there simply swap yours over clean them up and new gaskets bolt them on next we'll go over all the old components that you need to swap over to your base core remaining favorite engine and then how to torque them down and what to look for before transferring those old components over now comes the fun part transferring the old dirty pieces and cleaning them up and putting them on to the new engine so it looks just like this what we're gonna do is we're gonna start off right here in the front we'll go for everything in detail give you torque specs and they'll end in the rear so the first thing you want to do is swap over your cam sensors there's one on each side just hand tighten the bolt put a little bit of grease in the o-ring clean them up and you can reuse them I've never seen one of these fails same thing with the crank sensor now the pulleys are a different story up front here these pulleys on the old engine you want to take them if you're reusing them in spin them okay they should be perfectly quiet like there's any kind of noise coming from them a whining noise a grinding noise you want to change them out to new and that's why I did on this one they're so common to fail I replace all these pulleys on here the torque spec on these is 18 foot-pounds for all of these bolts okay on here same things with the water pump change it out to a brand new Ford water pump trust me it'll be the last water pump you put in this engine torque specs on those bolts same thing 18 foot pile just kind of jump around in a star pattern and that'll bolt up the new water pump on there now the crankshaft dampener down here is a different story but what you want to do is tighten it all the way down with an impact until it fully seats then back it off torque it down to 37 foot-pounds and then an additional 90 degrees and they'll kind of torque to yield that bolt and hold it secure on there the oil filter adapter on the side here you can see I'm using new on there and the reason being is a lot of times let me show you in the old one here the the sealing ring on here will get pitted to the point where it's not safe I guess you could say to reuse it and it can cause leakage issues so this one just check your zip carefully on this one from my build I went ahead and I replaced it either way to clean up the old one and reuse it the gasket you want to use is a Ford gasket there's a new metal gasket from four with the insert o rings in there and it's a much improved design over the old one to avoid oil filter adapter leaks so common same thing with all the bolts on there they're 18 foot-pounds just kind of jump around out there and torque it down of course you want to put on the brand new oil filter I recommend the motor craft one but that silicone valve in them they're really good and they're really cheap up top here like I said if you don't have if you need to swap over to valve covers use a new gasket make sure things clean use a dab of sealant right here and right here where the joints are at on there and then you go ahead and torque them down with the torques pack in a sequence down below for it both the new style you see here and the old style now that VCT so light should already be in there if not make sure you put new ones in before putting the valve covers on but they should be in there already and then tighten those down same thing with spark plugs whenever you put in a new engine want to use brand new spark plugs use the forward once the motor craft ones you won't be sorry those are the ones that get makes you put a bit of anti-seize in the tip and torque them down a torch back on these older style ones ours is 25 foot-pounds okay and I'll put the torque spec for the newer style it's much lower on the newer engines exhaust manifolds exhaust manifolds are so common to rot out on these and the studs the brake on these and that warps the very ends it's best if you're this far into put new Ford manifolds on the Ford right-hand manifold kit I actually dropped in price quite a bit so it's worth it to put it on here as you see here I have stainless studs and nuts on here to avoid any kind of breakage in the future so this will never happen again no issues with the manifold again and of course you definitely want to use the Ford gaskets there's a multi-layer steel gasket to avoid any kind of leaks in the future cold or hot engine mounts down below here we didn't go over a torque sequence on these don't want to forget that very very important even though I have a detailed video on it the studs on here the new studs are torqued at a hundred six inch pounds then once those are on in the gaskets around the manifold you slide that on start the nuts on here you torque these nuts to 18 foot-pounds top to bottom top to bottom top to bottom from the back to the front same thing on the other side so it's very simple once you torque it down you want to go through again top to bottom starting the rear here and recheck that torque as the gasket on there settles okay the studs on here the studs have a standoff on them from the factory I've had leakage issues with those with it that the lower Y pipe cannot get up far enough to seal on this collector properly so now I use these straight studs like this with no standoffs from Dorman and they work really well I'll link to those down below two engine mounts these are a toss-up they really really are I'm keeping this vehicle as vehicles my I'm just starting I just bought it so guess what it's you know fifteen years old now I'm putting an engine mount so it's up to you if you want to do engine mounts or not the bolts on these are fifty foot pounds so just there's three bolts on each side for each engine mount there are fifty foot pounds I do use a little bit of blue loctite on there um going up here in the back these are the basic gaskets that come with the manifold or the engine there'll be a thermostat some ol rings some gaskets intake gaskets it won't be a complete set so open it up and see what you got and then see what else you need like I need water crossover gaskets and all that stuff so these are never a complete set don't rely on the engine manufacturer to give you a full gasket set up top here this engine did come with a new CHT sensor you play you're going to swap that over for sure even if you reuse the old one it's 89 inch pounds and then make sure you put a little jump around here and it's kind of put it back here ready to bolt on to the intake back there same thing with the knock sensors here these you want to take out of the old engine by hand do not use impact tools and go back in same thing by hand torques back on these again it's critical to make sure they work properly that's 15 foot pounds on the backside here your new engine will include a nipple like this right here this is a nipple come out of the backside of the water pump and it's can have two new orange ol rings out make sure it looks just like that and ready to go for that that pipe that goes in the back for the heater hose make sure it's all set and ready to go also over here you know the same thing you want to make sure you put new manifold on yours is probably gonna be warped and rotted out really well and it's a good time to use all stainless studs so this never happens again with these these exhaust manifolds which are so common same thing over here 50 foot-pounds for the engine mount now a dipstick tube on here unless you live down south there's no rust this thing's gonna suck big time in the block over there on the old engine it's best it's like 15 bucks buy a new one has a new o-ring built into it already and then you can bolt it up over here okay that is the way to do it mallies hoses you want to put on the lower radiator hose and the D gas bottle hose that goes up to the D gas bottle and have them clamped in all ready to go it makes it really easy put the engine back in that way the way you do it is you line up either the line right here or the arrow with the casting line in the adapter see that height line up like that and that makes sure the orientation going out like this and up is correct and they simply put the clamp on that just like that I think that is it that those are all the pieces you want to transfer over so it gets to this point right here you do everything while it's sitting on the stand and they'll be a nice professional job and end so we put it into the vehicle we have no problems real quick before installing a new engine into the vehicle I want to go over a super important tip that's gonna save you a real headache here in the near future now all these engines are shipped dry no engine oil no coolant which is standard it's fine the problem with it though is that it creates huge air pockets within a cylinder block in a cylinder head this can cause localized overheating while the engine is purging all that's air on there waiting on the thermostat to fully open and get that full coolant flow and burping effect not only is that not good for your engine but it can also avoid your warranty before you ever get on the road you see these little disks back here these these are warranty void discs on the backside of the cylinder heads now once the engine overheats it will actually melt the center of that disk and it will stay that way and that's how the engine manufacturer knows you overheat it and abuse their engine they're not gonna warranty anything so in order to avoid that what you want to do is vacuum fill the cooling system or if you don't want to buy a vacuum filler tool what we can do I'll show you later if you can fill directly into each side each Bank of the engine with coolant through these ports right here before ever putting the intake manifold on and that will give the engine a chance to kind of burp the coolant out of there the air out of there on each bank individually before you install the intake and finish completing the cooling system and then we can just fill from there and monitor temperatures that is the best way to avoid any kind of hot spots and voiding of the warranty on there now once the engine is just like this ready to go go ahead and transfer your engine sling over and mount it up to the valley here just like that and then once the engine is off of the stand hanging in the air we can go ahead and transfer the flexplate in the back side here and the spacer plate very important so what you want to do is pull off the old one I use the impact pull them off the bolts are reusable you use some blue loctite going back together and then on the new engine you transfer it over you simply tighten them in a crisscross pattern 260 foot-pounds okay make sure the spacer plays on there first though and that your dowel pins are in place good quick visual make sure they line up on their dowel pins are super super important to line up the engine to the transmission have no problems with cracked flex plates in the future besides that let's hook up that engine crane and get this thing in at this point the engine is ready to go back into the vehicle so let's walk over and make sure the engine compartment is ready to accept the new engine first thing I do is get some good lighting in here on both sides it's gonna help a lot we're installing and lining things up and then when I look around make sure all the harnesses and lines are tucked out of the way so nothing is in our way when we're trying to set this new engine in here without damaging anything think about if we really tight coming through right here then once we get down far enough we need to concentrate on lining up the engine mounts with the frame here both sides the exhaust on both sides and the transmission all at the same time yeah so you want everything out of your way now well make sure you pull your rags off your exhaust collectors and clean them up just like so this will make sure there's a nice leak free connection to the new exhaust manifolds we put on transmission make sure it's as far back as possible as high up as possible in the transmission tunnel so that is out of the way we're putting the new engine back into here the outer part of the mating flange mine had a lot of rush transfer from the steel separator plates over on the engine there a few high spots so I wanted to clean them off with a disc I clean them off and I put a little bit of nickel anti-seize on there so I wouldn't have any issues with galvanic corrosion again I suggest to do the same on yours torque converter make sure that your your dot you placed is facing down so we can line it up at the flex plate make sure a torque converter is fully inserted into the transmission sometimes when you're pulling engine I could hang up on these studs and pull out a little bit and then it won't go back in properly it won't mount up properly with the engine so you want to make sure you spin it by hand and push in to the transmission little jiggle and do it 10 15 times make sure it fully drops into there and it's set within the transmission then put a little bit of grease on your Center pilot hub there it's very important and the other things I want to go over just a few things that I change out or take care of a while it's all all open like this this is the time hasn't been open like this and about 10-15 years so what I did is I went through and did a little rust remediation a few spots I painted and seal up on here the rest of it you can see all this on here it's all fluid film I changed out the lower steering shaft mine was loose a lot of times they bind up super easy to change it now the vent hose for the the front axle on here was split down in here since you went through any kind of water it would just suck it walk in water right away so I made sure I cut that back a little bit and reinserted it and I pulled the line down a little bit there's enough slack and then over here even that the clamping on there where it holds up the vent from the factory was a little too tight so I released it a few notches on there so it can vent better my trans lines were leaking up here so I changed the whole trans cooler lines while it's out makes it a lot easier you're gonna see all the rust remediation I did make it real nice while it's all apart in here power steering lines another area where they rust a big time and they're real pain to change especially when they get stuck in the rack down here so right now is a good time to take care of that on the front diff it was never the fluid wasn't change four hundred thirty thousand miles I popped the cover off on there cleaned that up and painted it and then of course let that differential drain out wiped it out and did it right because you can access that bolt that bolt and then the the rear bolt on there and kind of drop it down far enough to get that front cover off what else did I do there's spots on this this trans Horrors it comes up and over the trans and then it goes just above the exhaust and it comes up and over a valve cover right about here you'll see it's all disintegrated or falling apart and it exposes the wires they can chafe and cause a lot of transmission electrical problems so I put up how they call it friction tape on there the whole length of the way and I covered it with electrical tape after that and that make sure the harness is good to go because that's near impossible to get to once all is back in here what else just certain things like this I put the anti-seize on there two steel hinge going to aluminum hood same thing down here anti-seize where those melts or me jiggling around in there just get a lot of these different areas in here all taken care of while it's all apart like this that's the way to do a clean of D gas brought a lot real good you know all that good stuff all the other thing I did it's really easy right now is these are the vacuum lines right here that go down to the ìwe system there's a lot of points for breakage on here so I did I did a vacuum test well it's all apart from my up here where it stops and make sure the integrity of the lines and the ìwe system is fully intact so there's a lot you can do while it's all apart like this and it's a good idea to do enough of that let's start lowering the engine into the vehicle and get this thing out of here and now it's time to finally put the engine in Alex my son here it's gonna help me just guys license today congratulations Alex so we're gonna go ahead and get this engine in finally make sure you bring it over nice and safe and all your chains are secure get it up and into place just like mine is and then once you start getting it down into the vehicles when the magic starts to happen so let's go ahead and start putting it into the vehicle the same thing you're gonna watch up front here and you're going to watch back here that's why it's nice to have a helper to crank it and lower it while you're kind of guiding it in so initially what we're gonna do we're gonna get it nice and straight even though it seems that an angle the engine is straight then pretty positioning get as close as possible before we start dropping it in we got like six inches back here and this is key to making sure you don't damage anything now we're close enough we can start dropping it so just turn it like these it's gonna drop a lot I'd be very careful over here when you're turning the release screw just a little bit just like that see how he's right there it's going down you can see it's going down tighten now we're going they're coming too close to the back here because of the booms coming down so he can't get out a little bit no more we're gonna come down and back a little bit more right there now continue lowering it and then just concentrate on lowering it into the vehicle without damaging the engine or the body slowly pull for more time you don't want to do that go ahead and stop it back up we need to do is pull it forward so you'll hit the harness back there this up here just magnesium so it's not really gonna hurt anything back here it's all finding there's harnesses to need careful back there now at this point we're clear of the core sport and back here tonight well you can't damage anything we want to go down a little bit further clear the top of the wiper call then you can start pushing it back and getting in position everything's good keep going down a little bit a little bit slower though that's good down down down stop so when the engine gets right above the the two mounts in the in the frame for the the engine mounts once it gets right above them and we're down pretty far like this that's when you can start scooping it back and you get it back towards the trans then we start dropping it more hopefully I'll fall right into those mounts in there I'm gonna do now hopefully this room it's bringing closer you sleeping pad look down here and see exactly what's going on alright so that's quite as close as I can get you you can see we're still really far away from the trans but we're hovering right above those those those mounts in the Franks we're ready to push back now still watch we have fuel lines evap lines over here and a lot of stuff you want to start centering it in the engine bay too because we're gonna start hitting stuff are pretty darn centered in this one maybe over to the left just a little bit alright let's push it back a little bit into there a little more play a game of Tetris at this point fitting this thing in here what you think it realize is the oil pan is sitting right above the front axle right now so you really can't drop it down any more you need to get centered push back and cleared of that axle so the pan will clear and then we can start dropping it down into the mouths all right push back no we're gonna get it close to the firewall it's close to Papa you can't no neva let's hit it just watch your lines there so here's how it's gonna look at this point the install remember I'm going through all these details because a lot of people are doing this engine swap have done our doing it for the first time so there's a lot of key points here so you can see how far back we are to the firewall here we're very close nowhere near the trans yet nowhere near the exhaust down there but down below here they can get you down in here you can see the oil pan is now basically clear of the front axle so now they can start dropping it down and moving it back as we're dropping it down to fit right into the frame there you see how it works it's just like kind of like like a like a Tetris game I guess you kind of move it move it move it you know it just kind of falls into place just keep watching stuff so you don't damage anything while you're doing it all right so start lowering a little bit turn it very slowly will do is will get it closer and closer to the frame now that we're clear the front axle we're still not fighting the trans yet just push back far enough so now stop right there right now I'm right above those those pockets in the frame for the for the engine mouth so this will kind of fall in place has some wiggle room whereas this size like that big donut on the side so you gotta fit we like a rule restrictor almost so this side is this side you want concentrate this point getting it in there so right now I'm lined up on this side concentrating on this side because this engine mounts harder to get into so lower it a little bit very slow and this is where the lights come into play here you want to get down there and see what the heck you're doing cuz this one over here is a really tight fit alright stop so you know we're putting it into that mount over here but we're close back here on these lines it's a hard metal line right here it's not a big deal but it's something to be mindful of right a little bit there we go see that side this side right here I'm right on top it lined up though but it was it was right there so just looked at a little bit so go over and it will fall into place now this one's kind of locked in over here now we can go back to the other side and kind of do the same thing with the other side here is more forgiving just two studs sticking through the frame on there so there are such fishy stay at this point you don't want to raise that really well see you get to have certain pointing there's enough friction won't pop out yet you can still move it easily so I can kind of drop in these mount points on here so right now let's in the pocket over here I got make sure it's still perfectly in there now it's time to go underneath and try to start lining up the exhaust and the transmission down there here's a better a view of what's going on underneath that I couldn't show you earlier so like I said at first once you get it down and into the pocket here or you're dangling just above these mounts in the frame your engine be dangling right above it he want to concentrate on this side the driver's-side Milan for the big donut roll restrictor we saw it earlier when we put it on it fits in there really tight both sides and it'll add the hole there perfectly when I was fully seated and also there's a pin underneath here that sticks through help align that side too so the outsides the hard side to align so do that first and then you come on this side to the passenger side and you know kind of get that melt within the frame mount here just cut it in that pocket and then you usually have to push it back a little bit and jostle around a little bit and it'll fall right into those two slots right there okay your engine mount in the passenger side is gonna very be two big nuts on that side one big one small I think the newest ones all nine and newer have a roller strict around this side type look them out that are also hard to get into it's very tight so once those are in there and they're kind of they're aligned okay what you want to do next is go after the exhaust so this would be close just like this my stuff my lower stud was sticking into the cat converter so waltz up in the air and the weights off of its kind Dale in there you can easily reach up in here pull the exhaust balance hang on it and then pull the engine down a little bit and it'll dangle this way a little bit and it'll fall outside the pipe then you let everything go and it's kind of sitting just like this you can put this on anytime later on but at least they're aligned the studs aren't in there this sides even easier it's just kind of straight down type deal so you can do this one any time as long as the pipe is not sticking into one of these studs getting hung up alright now that my transmission is being supported I want to take a second to go through in detail and help you guys with the transmission to engine alignment this is the part where a lot of guys get hung up and they get frustrated they start jamming the bolts down then what they're doing and the end of ruining either the transmission or a torque converter it's it's a process you need to do it need to do it right so let's go over now again the engines in it's sitting in its engine mounts free there's no bolts or nuts it down so I can move around a little bit perfect at this point we're going to take the transmission and we're gonna use the trans Jack or regular Jack in a block of wood across the front right here and we're just gonna support to trance okay so that's some support to it then we're gonna go back here and that transmission crossmember and we're gonna use these two studs inside of here and a pry bar and we're gonna press forward we're gonna pry forward and we're gonna drag the transmission closer to the engine okay we're gonna get it close but not touching okay and then we're gonna use the bell housing here to our advantage you can use it press up press down whatever you got to do pull down and get it aligned enough so you can get one of the bell housing bolts in like you see this one right here that's the first one that came into play for me so I got this one in a couple threads by hand it's not tightened at all it's just supporting and aligning that side of transmission now come to the other side the bell housing here and you're gonna do the same exact thing but you can see the driver's side is much easier to get to all these bolts on here so these two are shorter and that's half one for the trans cable is lit longer again you're gonna get it a line you're gonna push and pull on the bell housing as needed and then you can just get them in a couple threads by hand that helps align and support it now the very top one on here is the the dowels on both sides so you can see mines lined up and we're pushed onto the dowels a little bit so it's supporting and aligning the transmission perfectly at this point get is still loose enough to get the rest of it lined up and the most important part next once it's supported and partially lined we need to align the torque converter stud so it sticks through the flex plate on here we marked it earlier with with the white paint for balance now I need to make sure that stud comes through with the transmission aligned to the engine array with the valve pins once you get this stud aligned and it pops through all the rest of them will line up and pop through also at the same time okay so like I said you use a small flat blade screwdriver to kind of move it in here and get it so it pops through you can leave see right now I can't see it at all or come on this side for transmissions that still have the rubber plug right here you can see the stud is inside of they're so the stud is right there it's closed it's not perfect but we pre-positioned it earlier so it would be closed just like this so at this point it makes it really easy with this plug on here close we're touching the flexplate but we're not jammed against it right now because the bolts are all loose okay so pull back a little bit so at this point what you want to do is just either pry on the torque converter or in this case it's so easy it's right here right there you see it right there at this point we're in a perfect position because once it came through and we're lined up over here this torque converter was able to move you can see it it's moving really nice so come back on this side see it right there that's coming through we're lined up at this point we just need to bring the trans forward once again so I'll go back there and I'll pry on those those studs again so you stay there check it out bring it forward just a little bit more okay see that you see us and it can still move or not binding at all so make sure you pry evenly on both sides okay we're into our witness marks we are fully floor at this point all right we're right against it the trans or the engine there now the final test once that the trans is fully forward and against the the engine if you stick your finger in here or just grab that stud and you move back and forth it should be moving nice and free like that should not be binding at all okay so at this point we're all four studs are through and we're aligned with the dowel pins on the side of the transmission you're free to go ahead and start tightening all the bellhousing bolts 235 foot-pounds to suck it fully to the engine and then again at the end you want to grab that stud let's move it a little bit you should make a nice little pinging side this will be nice and free inside they're lined up and not binding that is the way to do it it's a process a little here a little there and you'll get them together without ruining anything and that's key here at this point with the transmission fully aligned and bolted up down below here we can do one final check of that torque converter to make sure it's aligned and not binding in any way so what you want to do is just get stick your fingers through the hole down here just grab that stud and just wiggle it back and forth just like that that telus is aligned it's centered in there and none of the four studs are binding in any width absolutely perfect so we're good to go we can go ahead and put our torque converter nuts on there use some blue loctite torque them down to 27 foot-pounds do one right here good next one and next one the same way you took them off okay get those one set before you forget very easy to forget those go ahead and put your inspection plate back on here your plug back on here okay and then you can go ahead and start putting these miscellaneous ions on like the starter bolt up the starter get it wired in Walsall open like this and then you can go ahead and start bolting down your engine okay the through bolt there and the two nuts on this side now the torque specs on these do vary throughout the years different designs stuff without that information down below but your your set you're ready to go and start you know tightening down the engine mounts at this point and then right after that torque down the two nuts right here for the transmission mount seventy six foot-pounds and then we can come on this side here get our transmission shift linkage back down and hooked in right there and then bolt it in right here and then just go ahead and snap it onto the manual shaft on there the exhaust now is a good time to get the studs and the flanges lined up for the exhausts on here for your um your down pipe on here what you want to do is go ahead and put both nuts on there finger tight and then just kind of tight it evenly side to side and even side to side because this whole wide pipe cat converter system is an assembly at this point you undo it evenly both sides now make sure you have a leak-free connector so go ahead and take care of that also the front drive shaft you can go ahead and pop that on all four bolts again lock tight it's 76 foot-pounds and the same thing back here with the rear drive shaft go ahead and get it go ahead and stick it into the transfer case and then back here bolted in all four bolts make sure you line up your mark on there again blue loctite send you six foot pounds almost miscellaneous items down here and in the back of the vehicle we can take care of all this stuff right now and then we'll go up we'll just concentrate on the engine at that point okay so I just kind of look around and look at all the stuff you took off and just start bolting it back on back up top here the very first thing you want to do is take care of a few items they're buried way back down inside the engine here so you have the two remaining bellhousing bolts up top here might get those in right away and then take your vent hose right there and clip it on to this bracket and then before we lay this trans harness across the back here and up and around the head you first want to install this heater tube right here comes down wraps around to the engine valley and then it slips right on to the backside of the water pump onto this nipple right here it should be two new o-rings on there so it slips right on and the backside a head back there it'll actually bolt up there's a little bracket on the tube and it'll bolt up to the head back there now this is a studded bolt right here that you're supposed to use on there so go ahead and bolt that up and then right away after that while you still have access you want to go ahead and put this braided strap on it there so this end goes on to the body side so go ahead and put that in there and then the other end of it the eyelet almost always breaks off from rust and corrosion while you're taking everything apart and it happened this one sure enough so what I do is I open up the braid on there and you stick it right through the stud on there that that's back there now from the heater tube and then you put the 10 mil nut and it completes the ground path perfectly fine that way and you can reuse that strap that way so go ahead and take care of those items and once all as together you can of course finish laying the the trans harness lay across up and around the head and just sit there waiting for the PC I'm here eventually at this point also you can go ahead and bolt up your your trans dipstick tube on the side here and you know pop in your AC compressor the three bolts over here go ahead and take care of that your power steering pump go ahead and bolt that to the side over here you can start taking care of always miscellaneous items so we can start getting the engine back together always lower end ones down here you even do some over here and then we'll come back and we'll I'll show you in detail how to install the intake on here because it's critical to install it correctly next we are going to be installing the intake manifold but first you want to make sure the engine and the engine compartment as a whole here is ready to accept it's a big component going back in here and it's gonna block a lot of access back here so you'll make sure all your installation items and the backside of the engine are complete so at this point your engine compartment should look a little something like this you know everything is kind of laid back in all these miscellaneous items so you wanna make sure your engine harness is on top the valve cover is nice and loose there are two connections to the upstream o2 sensors one each side that you can access through the engine value here you want to make those connections now they're deep down in there but they're a lot easier to access through the engine value before the intake goes on also I've dropped in the AC compressor power steering pump got all that in I install the radiator popped in the trans cooler lines and the lower radiator hose got that all complete the hose going up to the D gasp I got that all clamped off that's all sealed off and just kind of get noise miscellaneous items in place and done so we can go ahead and install the intake now installing the intake can be a bit of a pain because of these three connections right here the two knock sensors and the CHT sensor to go back up and through the I am our RC rods a certain way and I'll show a clip at the end of this on exactly how to do that so you don't wrap them around the rods and bind them up you don't want to do that now like I said earlier this engine is shipped to ride it's like any other engine and it's best if you're not vacuum filling yet to go ahead and fill the water jacket on both sides right now so you can go ahead and just kind of pour into the porch right here with a funnel be careful you don't want to get down any down in the intake port of the head here and it's kind of fill both sides so you can start seeing it pull up inside there you don't need to fill it to the very top but just to it you can start seeing it come up in there and it's kind of burped out so each Bank of the engine has its cool and kind of flowing around in there okay and we can get rid of some of the some of those air pockets that are inside of there besides that you want to make sure your water crossover is ready to go I'll clean up like this and we can drop on our two new gaskets they just kind of push in they snap in on here same thing with the intake manifold you want to make sure it's cleaned up make sure there's no carbon on your injector tips and then a new intake gaskets snapped to the intake on this design I also put on the brake vacuum hose on the back side of intake now get it on there in position and it'll make us so much easier dropping it all in together later on because otherwise it's a real pain to push that onto there when the intakes in place trust me so yeah at this point if everything is cleaned up and ready to go we can go ahead and remove the covering the cardboard cover on the intake ports on here make sure the gasket surface is clean and then I like to blow some compressed air down into those intake ports to make sure there's no debris to lodge down in them let's get to it the whole process is gonna be a lot of back and forth on here so let's move it a little bit at that time and we'll eventually get it in there initially first thing you're in a fight is this brake booster hose so I'm gonna get mine in place it's used to feel real but kind of used like handles so we'll get it back far enough I'm I get my line amber a pic this is a no.4 we're gonna get up down and over into place out here we'll get that taken care of first drop it down a little bit and get it out of our way there we go now that's our way we can continue to move the intake back a little bit further okay just rake the booster line a little bit just kind of get to a poor you getting far enough back like that and then we're gonna start all the connections the electrical connections through the back and you can kind of reach around and see most of this a little bit of it but most of it's gonna be by feel so in order to illustrate ins properly because it is so important let's cut to a clip of how to route the wires back there so you do it and do it right here's a really good view of how this procedure is going to look the reason why I'm doing it now I'm all the engines understand is because it's impossible to see back there impossible to film back there and most this would be done by feel so you want a good reference of what's going on back here when you're installing the intake so once the engine is in the vehicle and you gotta have the main engine harness laid down on both valve covers kind of in place loose and you're starting to install the intake and you're starting to slide it back under there don't bring it all the way back to its resting position just yet you want to get a far enough back that you can attach the main engine harness right here to the stud so you find a metal tab kind of get it located on there and then put the nut on there just a few turns loose so that the whole harness is still loose back here but it's located and that's gonna help us make our three critical connections back here from the Engine Valley now the problem a mistake a lot of technicians make with this intake because it is so big and bulky it's hard to see back here and get back here is they take all these connections from the the engine value and this wrap them up around and connect them in the best they can whatever the problem with that is that these IMR C rods back here we'll get all bound up off linkage will get all bound up on the engine harness and cost IMR C codes and then you're pulling it back off once again so you want to make sure everything's routed properly so once this thing's located right here and we have it far enough back so it can't fall off we're going to concentrate on the three connections from the engine value so we're gonna take the driver side knock sensor you can see it coming up through there so I come up and go behind the harness right here the reason why I'm doing this again it's because you're me doing all this by feel the passenger side knock sensor comes up goes up and over to right there make sure those connections click so they're secure and then look at the CH T sensor which is the jumper up again all the stuff is on the inside of the rods here and it goes over and Clips right in okay same thing with IMR C motor itself it comes down for the main harness right here a little pigtail and it Clips right in that is key to making sure all this stuff does not interfere with the IMR syros very very critical you could do all this while it's up and out of there you know six eight inches away from its final resting place the other critical item back here which is a real pain is the darn vacuum booster tube that feeds the brake booster it's very important that gets put on this little nipple back here properly now on the old four models the bracket the tube all that stuff is one piece okay you want to take it you want to push it all the way on to the nipple of the intake it's way down in there push it all the way onto it and make sure it's secure and then you're going to the intake and everything put it together lay it around from down below you can take the bracket line up with the screw hole on there and then mount it up and then the o4 just dangle from that point on out over to the booster now no five and newer models there's gonna be a big ol elbow like this this is a newest style record always clamps on it and this one's big and beefy and this one's same thing it goes on there push it on all the way and then right here I'll be a tube that comes down and it snaps into a bracket right here it's already mounted to the head so again you want to keep this bracket and Milan to the head leave it there in place but when you're putting the intake on you want to take this 90 degree elbow right here the tube the metal tube that goes up and over and feeds everything and you want to take it all together with the intake and plop it down into place okay it's gonna be a pain and get this back down in there but that's the way to do it you don't want to do it afterwards trying to get it down there it's too tight and it's impossible at the firewall being in the way you want to do it while you're putting the intake on and then after that again you just snap it into your bracket and then feed it on off and there those are the critical points back here the connections you want to make and you wanna make them properly so there's no issues afterwards then after that everything is out here in the open and just like that the intakes in it takes a little bit of finesse working it in a little bit moving the vacuum tube moving the harness will bit in a little bit more dropping it down fully and then after that like it is right now you want to make sure that there's nothing trapped underneath it any harness pieces any vacuum tubes and there's just vacuum line oh four models this looks back here so you wanna look at it carefully with a flashlight at the gasket on here we're at the gasket meets the cylinder head and should be flush all the way around there's no rocking of the boat I guess you could say it should just sit there perfect on the cylinder heads ready to go so make sure that's okay all around and recheck double-check triple-check your harness routing back here you can kind of feel for it and make sure it's inside the IMR see rods and everything's good to go the main harness coming back and around here and then of course your vacuum tube it's out out of the way and kind of in place for right now so at this point we can start actually bolting the intake up so we're gonna grab our water crossover okay remember it slips underneath it over here is why it's still loose we're gonna kind of get in here and then just lift the intake and get in here just like that now the first thing one I do is bolt in the the water crossover first because this bolt right here the same winked about earlier has to be hard to get to if not impossible to get to once the intake is down it in place so do the three bolts for the water cross over the little 8 mil but then you can go ahead and get all your intake bolts and start putting them in all the way around you want to use an extension a 10 mil and kind of thread them in by hand a couple threads and make sure we're not cross threading because you want to torque to be even and and correct we're working down a plastic intake like this so it has no vacuum leaks over any temperature range so once all these are torqued in place you can go ahead and start you know just putting your your thermostat in here give water neck Bolton that down you can get your alternator just throw up right back into here two bolts here and the bolts up here for the bracket for it all that kind of stuff you can prop the coils back in and you know bolt them in and start doing all your connections for the Fralick wheels and the injectors no on stuff all different sensors on the engine here and then don't forget your your fuel line here Mike's tucked behind I put a little bit of grease in these o-rings on the fuel line connection and then make sure you put it on there until it snaps you'll hear a loud clicking noise which means just fully secured in there and then of course put your secondary lock on there so yeah at this point it's pretty simple I'll put the torque specs in the sequence for the intake manifold I'll link to the PDF for that down below so you guys are friends now head sitting right here and you can torque it to worker right so yeah just go ahead and torque that down then start getting all the small stuff around it as you can imagine once that intake goes back on and it's torqued in sequence and set in place everything else you know just kind of lays in around it and you just start making all your connections I mean the rest of your harness connections your battery connections over here the rest your heater hose isn't a lot of stuff it all kind of falls into place once the intakes on their PCM airbox your PCV lines over here canister purge all those connections just go through and put everything back that you took off we pull the engine out it all basically falls into place you know your front end accessory drive components on their lot stuff so it's nice and complete now when I go to fire a new engine like this I will not put on the fan and the fan shroud as of yet I want to keep it open and while I look around and get a good visual while the engines idling initially okay so at this point the engine is all back together okay everything's back together the way it should be besides the fan shroud so we'll go ahead and connect the negative battery cable it's safe now and then we're gonna go ahead and start filling all the fluids so make sure all your drain plugs and drain and the alternator and alternator the radiator and the oil pan and a lot of stuff make sure they're all tight because we're gonna start filling fluids so what you want with the engine is start off with eight quarts but I got to take closer to nine but start off at eight quarts because the engines dry remember okay power steering if you did disconnect your lines or play some lines at the pump like I had to you want to go ahead and want to overfill that reservoir on there might have to fill a bit yet because it set overnight but you want to overfill it because initially it's gotta suck it way down and you don't want it starving your pump the other thing is coolant of course now if you don't have that vacuum filler you should have already filled each Bank on the engine like I showed earlier just to get an initial burping of the actual base block and at this point there's met it back together you can of course start filling over here at the D gas bottle just fill it all the way to the top it'll just continually burp out through this line over here the rest of the way I'm going to vacuum fill mine of course yeah so just get everything all the fluids back in there and your engine oil and your coolant basically in the course power-steering and we'll go ahead and fire it up now on mine I had I replaced a dipstick tube on the transmission so I also need to make sure I fill that transmission fluid back up because I probably lost two or three quarts by pulling that tube out of there so if you did that and you leaked from the transmission don't forget about that you don't want to burn transmission next so you want to check all your fluids when you're doing engine job like this afterwards because stuff does leak out so let's go ahead and fill the fluids up connect the negative battery terminal and then we'll start the priming process on the engine all right now with our negative battery cable connected and secured our initial fill of all the fluids in the engine compartment done the next thing we're going to do is we're going to prime the engine so we get oil throughout the engine and we pressurize all the circuits in there including the chain tensioners before we ever fire the engine that's the idea here so what you do that is you disable the injectors and the coils by coming down here in front of the engine next to the AC compressor and leaving the crankshaft position sensor disconnect us are just disconnected if you connected it already leave it off to the side away from the belt drive here so it doesn't get caught up in it and then we're going to simply go over to the driver's seat and just crank away on the engine until we see oil pressure in the cluster in there now what you want to do is make sure you have a good a good battery or a Barry charger on the battery we're gonna crank it for about fifteen to thirty seconds at a time allowing the starter to cool for two to three minutes in between sessions and then do it again another 15 to 30 seconds of cranking until we get oil pressure once to get oil pressure you want to crank it for another 10 to 15 seconds to make sure you fill all the circuits in there okay it really pressurized the entire engine get flow going before we fire it so let's go ahead and do that all right here we go moment of truth now we're gonna listen for a lot of different things when we're cranking the engine to build this oil pressure so like I said we're gonna crank it for fifteen to thirty seconds at a time looking for soil pressure to come up on here remember it's just a switch down below the dummy gauge so when it hits seven 10 psi it's going to go full middle on here that's not full pressure so once it hits then it pops up on here shows pressure you want to crank for an hour 10 to 15 seconds to really get the engine full the oil and pressurized and there especially the chain tensioners so when you're cranking you also want to listen to make sure you have a nice even cranking sound to the engine so let's go ahead and start that now nice even Frankie it gives you a general sense of the overall mechanical condition of the engine now it being a brand new engine really shouldn't take too long to build oil pressure it is dry but all the plants are nice and tight so again 15 30 seconds to go out pushing it and then let that starter cool very important all right go ahead and turn the key off let the starter cool now at this point you only been cranking the engine right so we can get out of the vehicle here and fall over while the starter is cooling you can come over here and check your your power steering reservoir because we're cranking and we're turning that pump down there and it's kind of bleeding air out and pressurizing and fill the passages in the power steering system so you can recheck that and just kind of check your overall condition make sure the belt you know is tracking on there all that kind of stuff while waiting for the starter to cool now may check your coolant level stuff like that mine's back in till so it's perfect and just let it cool it's very important to let the starter cool before you burn it out and then after three four crank sessions you should get something like this where you start to crank it and you get oil pressure again once the peaks like that comes up 1015 seconds you want to get the oil lubricating inside of there and pressurizing especially a chain tensioners all right that's probably good enough we're good to go holding pressure still actually so we can go ahead and connect that crank sensor and fire the engine all right let's fire this puppy up now at first you may hear a little bit of startup rattle from the chain tensioners or even the hydraulic flash adjusters remember everything's new in here we're filling the hydraulic circuits for the oil and everything's pumping up so don't worry you're by here a little bit of rattle upon the initial startup after that you want to let it run for 5 10 15 seconds then we'll shut it down and immediately check our fluids you don't check for leaks and of course check our oil level make sure oil levels proper and before letting it run any further all right go ahead oh yeah sounds good [Music] like I said at first I leave the fan and the shroud off here so you can get access to everything and check it over you may also hear this right here that's the alton air basically screaming recharging the batteries from all that cranking we just dip so don't worry about that either all right shut it off now it's time to check that whale level make sure it's in spec all right so sure enough at 8 quarts the oil level is perfect on there I looked around there's no leaks and of course the belts aren't shredding or anything weird like that no weird noises but at this point we can go ahead and just start it up we're gonna let it idle and let the hydraulic lash adjusters fill and pressurize fully and then we're also going to a lot of the electronic throttle body to learn its rest or idle position to keep the idle it needs and wants on there based on the conditions so that's all very important part of a learning process when everything is new like this so let's let it idle and while you're doing that you know kind of look over make sure nothing's leaking check your fluid level stuff like that and we're actually gonna start installing always count pieces back up here so that we can get all that back together and finally put the hood on hood goes back on the same way to get off to do very very careful with it and then line up those marks you made earlier snap on the power sister ups and it'll hold and that'll be done it's pretty quick process pretty light so yep I do let the engine fully warm up without the fan and the fan shroud know you guys are probably wondering yes I let the engine warm up to full operating temp in ischl II with the fan and a shroud off after that we can shut it down we can look around make sure there's no leaks nothing common part everything sounds good and then we can go ahead and let it cool for a little bit and finally put the fan and the shroud on again it goes on the same way you took it off if you're using hand tools to put that hub nut back on to the water pump once you get it tightened by hand a little spin on by hand all the way to the end there once you get to that point either using a pneumatic like I use or just a fan clutch a fan hub nut wrench you simply put it on there right and then you take a hammer you tap it up here and that'll make sure it's tight enough on that's not gonna come loose no need for a lock tight on there and then that will complete it at that point put on fan on you can go for a test drive and see how this puppy purrs alright so it's finally done engines back in vehicle runs great no problems with it at all I'm very happy with it it's been about six months now so hopefully this video was enough had enough detail to it I hope you guys give through on your own there's a lot of experience and a lot of detail a lot of tips and tricks in this video that's why it was so long but I think it helped a lot of you out there change your engine yourself that's all the pointers channel helping you fix your Ford yourself see you next time guys

Channel: FordTechMakuloco

Views: 250,500

Rating: 4.8849077 out of 5

Keywords: FordTechMakuloco, ford, fix, problem, repair

Id: ueg0x-oDecs

Length: 63min 48sec (3828 seconds)

Published: Sat Nov 09 2019