Ford F-150 4R70E 4R75E Transmissions Loss of 4th Gear Overdrive: The Most Common Cause and Fix

[Music] hey guys what's happening today we have a 2004 f-150 that has a concern with the transmission where he goes through all the gears 1 2 3 and then he goes into 4th gear and just kind of neutrals out on them okay now this concern is very very common actually in the 2004 f-150 I think that was the first year the for our 7te for our 75e transmissions there's a couple different changes in there and there's a couple commonalities coming failure points that caused this it's very common actually so today we're gonna go through we're gonna actually pull the valve body down we're gonna show you a couple things to check and see we find inside of there and we'll go through all the pre checks you want to check before you just get in there pull the valve body down also now because the code you may get after this happens enough is a Pio 734 which is basically a very generic no fourth gear was achieved into code okay that's really healthy much besides let you know what you lost fourth gear in case you didn't know it already so with this concern one two and three the irregular shift smooth non flaring be perfect engagements in a drive perfect engagements in a reverse perfect the reverse is not affected just the overdrive okay it's all has to do with the overdrive band so let's go inside the trans and check it out all right now the very first pre check you want to do is to check the transmission fluid level so you want to go for a ride get the transmission nice and hot go through all the gears come back Park it on flat level ground in park let it idle a/c off and let it off like a minute or so and settle back down and then it can check the transmission fluid level and of course we're not gonna actually start it and run it and drive it for this video so for video purposes we're just gonna do with the engine off to show you how to do it so right over here is the dipstick it's got a nice yellow handle on it pull it out again with the engine idling hot in Park we're going to wipe it off clean we're gonna stick it back in there all the way down until it actually bottoms out and then we're gonna pull it out we're gonna check the fluid level now once this focuses you'll be able to see on here we have a cold reading and they've a hot rating on some of these if it's cold you can just do all this cold with the engine running whereas on them you got any way up here and engine hot because the fluid does expand as it gets hotter that's why there's two different markings on here either way depending on the temperature of the fluid make sure it's in the proper hash marks on here and just give a good you know check over see how dirty it is smell let's see if it has a chemical smell and not a burnt smell you don't want that and if everything checks out on there we know we need to go in pull the pan down and start doing some investigating now once you know you're going in you still want to keep this dipstick out on the bench because it will be in the way down there by the valve body when you're putting the valve body back up here eventually so you want to keep this out of there keep it out of the way of our working room inside the trans alright next we can start removing these 10 millimeter bolts all the way around the trans pan so we can drop the pan and empty all the fluid out now the best way to do this in a controlled manner is to undo all these bolts back here first and then we'll start loosening all these in the front here meanwhile the pain will drop down the back and it will start draining controllably into your drain pan so have your drain pan ready right around this area right here and we can go ahead and I can use hand tools I'm just using an impact occur this faster and just take them up back ones first you might start seeing some drips that's good to go just keep track up always both because they can roll away and get lost pretty easy loosen and these ones let's loosen them a little bit okay like this one right here on both sides that's gonna be our control bolts you can see it's starting to drip and then control fashion so we're just gonna loosen these ones a couple threads like that see that and that's bias control as you're gonna get with the draining of this so give it a second the initial push out of there okay and then I'll start removing these ones all the way and that's why keep these ones in both sides for our control okay now once the initial drain now has occurred like that both our control bolts are loose all the rest of the bolts are removed we can start loosing these a little bit more so you get that tilt going on remember the threads are not too long and we can try to get as much as we can out of there now these pans are pretty deep so they retain a lot of fluid so be ready to hold it and we pull it down to our drain pan so this point where's the hole from the center up [Music] be very careful with this remember the fluids gonna slosh around so you want to hold it nice and tight get rid of that fluid now at this point with the draining out like this is want to go ahead little wiggle on the trans filter push your drain pan centered a little bits gonna come out of here there we go I'll pull your filter out okay dump it at this point the trans is gonna drain like this for a while we're just constantly dripping so right now is a good time to go over the trans pan we just dropped and even the filter and see there's any large shavings of metal and they're chunks and all that and even clean the pan out so we're that's getting done all this is draining out now when you're inspecting the pan the one thing you might look out for us any kind of of course large chunks of metal down in here or slivers of metal okay not normal at all there's a hard part failure inside at this point stop and just pull the trans out it's coming out no matter what okay whereas the really fine metal that becomes like a sludge almost and collects on this magnet it's perfectly normal okay they're all gonna do that make me pretty thicken our two especially if you haven't changed in a long time so you just want to kind of look around you'll get the fluid on there wipe it out and look for any large chunks this one looks like it's good to go it's a little dark considering you just had the fluid changed but then again how clean was the fluid before all this you know so the thing that check for with the fluid is to just make sure there's no grit in there that I can't see it's kind of moving your fingers there and now I do good smell of it you know and when I take a good smell of it and see if it's burnt or not okay this one looks pretty good smells a little a little bit burnt but we're gonna go over to the vehicle and we're gonna pull the valve body down at this point next we're going to remove the internal molded lead frame which is basically the internal wiring harness and it's made to just kind of snap into our bulk connector up here and pass through and then transfers everything over to our ship's solenoids our torque converter solenoid and then branches up over here to our EPC solenoid now the way your removed is you'll see a slot something like this one right here right there's a little clip right there get cutting pry it back a little bit and pull down on the molle frame and then you work over to the next one I think the next one's like right around here over here and then there's one over here by the epc you gotta be very very careful with these and just kind of tug a little bit release it release it release it and just work it on through so you don't ruin it I mean one of the most tedious items to replace or remove on this job so go ahead and remove that I'll show the different points on here on the bench probably so you guys can see exactly where to pry and release those tabs to get it off of there and that right there is what the molded lead frame looks like when it's off the vehicle you can see it's just one big molded piece of plastic that simply carries the circuitry on through to each one of these solenoids so that it can control the transmission now the problem with these is like I said it they get brittle with all those heat cycles so it would be extra careful when you release them from their locking tabs now what I use is a little flat blade screwdriver like this to get in there and these little windows on here release them just enough and then I'll pull down on the connector and the molded lead frame just enough to release it from the solenoid okay so we're gonna start over here on this big connector right here which is the pass through for the bulk at sleeve okay there's me a big old locking tab on there you just kind of pry it back a little bit and pull this down and you're the easiest one to get to where as the rest of these the next one over is this one right here this is for the shift solenoids and there's three terminals on here so it's me a little bit harder to release this one out of here now right here is the little release window she's kinda your screwdriver in there pry back a little bit and then pull it down pull it down just enough to release it from there because right across this bridge here is the next one for the torque converter clutch and if you pull too hard that just pops you're gonna pull back on this this side slew me locked and you're gonna break it so you want to be very careful with these two right here kind of work them out together once you release them a little bit they're solenoids so again this one has this little window right here kind of pull back on it and you can release it and then you follow it to the last one over here for the EPC solenoid same thing little window right there pry back on it and pull it down and get the thing down and out of the way now once you pull up down you want to look it over make sure there's no cracks make sure all your locking tanks are still intact and there okay look at Overlea well and then check these terminals on here make sure and that bent or distorted anyway there was a problem for a while there with these having connectivity issues on certain transmissions because the terminals were spread so he might check that out there's actually a ford tools is for checking those terminals on there now once it's good to go it's cleaned up everything looks good to go you want to what I do put it in your cleaned up transmission pan our piece off to the side that way you can't put anything on top of it or step on it and break it it's in there it's safe put on the bench you're good to go at this point we can start removing the bolts for the valve body first thing you want to do is come over here and find this detent spring okay and you're gonna pull the 8 millimeter bolt out and the spring and you're going to put it off to the side I'm pretty sure this bolt is a different length so keep them off to the side and together and then we're going to come over to the center of the valve body here and we're gonna loosen one of these bolts that are in the center here any one of these a couple threads and then you're gonna go ahead you're gonna find the rest of the eight and all your bolts you'll see them all over the place and we're gonna take them out and put them off to the side okay what that's gonna do is get unfold the valve body from the case but there's one little bolt here that's unscrewed it's a few threads it's gonna hold the valve body for us so you can you're ready for it at the very end to support it and then zip it out and then slowly drop the valve body down in controlled fashion also be ready with your drain pan it's nothing leaking now but guess what once you pull this valve body down all those channels and passages in the case you'll see them in a second here they're gonna just flood out of there so the another small waterfall fluid coming out of here so be ready for that so go ahead and do that and then we'll get it to the bench and we'll see what's going on in the transmission and there's that waterfall now at this point with that one bolt in the center holding it you can just wait it out or you can just zip it out of there you have an impact and I just dropped the valve body in a controlled manner this one's gonna leap for a while I think let's go ahead and do it anyways now the valve body's gonna be heavy so you gotta be ready for okay the overdrive servo just fell out that means a snap ring when we play off you're actually what's going on here so pull the bow by you down and just you know I'm just like like I figured Oh for its really bad for this all these pieces right here are from the snap ring usually it breaks a little ear off that's it and then it gets lodged in the valve body here but this one it's destroyed look at that I'm let this drain a lot more you can see that this servo just fell out me pulled it out so this will I believe is the reverse then there's like a 2 3 and a 1 2 accumulators that's these two right here whereas that's the reverse servo for the reverse band and then that's the over drive band everything else is direct down there so yeah like I said to be a waterfall let it drain out and then we can start seeing what's going on here this is bad all right here's the valve body on the bench let's take a look now this one you can see is an absolute mess there's broken pieces everywhere right here you can see the overdrive servo it's just it's just coming apart it's just worn out beat up and it's coming apart but more importantly the big old snap ring that holds this servo in the case actually broke apart in a bunch of pieces now it usually happens with these it's this this thick old snap ring will break off right here this ear this little ears where they have an indent see you put your snap ring pliers in there and remove and install the snap ring well it's a small little area right here that can break off and this chunks off and then it falls down into the valve body and sup the overdrive servo regulator valve okay and that's why you usually don't have overdrive this one is like a worst case scenario it just kept happening and happening happening and this thing just kept getting more and more loose beaten at it and actually pushed it all through the case and many many pieces here so that is exactly why we are losing fourth gear in this vehicle just neutrals out because the servo sitting in here lucious flopping around and there's no way to apply it and push up and tighten up that overdrive band so it all makes sense and it's actually a nice easy fix in the end we're gonna get a new overdrive servo complete if it doesn't come with the springs we can usually reuse these these are think they're intact get a new servo and then we're course get a new snap ring I already inspected the case so little chewed up as you can imagine beating this thing I mean look at this thing it's a little marled but I'll say it's okay and it should hold the new one in there just fine what you want to do in this situation whether you have these pieces broken it's this obvious or not is you want to take all these pieces get them out of here okay get them the Frick out here don't lose them down any it's passages this is really extreme right here actually we're gonna get these pieces out of here there's the little ear that usually breaks off you see out there that's what usually breaks off and gets in the valve and hangs it up so we're get these out of here I'm actually gonna run a magnet around this area here anything around here I can't pick up my fingers and make sure we don't lose anything okay small little pieces there the next thing we're going to do is we're gonna remove the separator plate and look inside at the valves to make sure they're moving free and that none of these pieces got stuck down in there so the first thing that I do in situations usually is I will flip it over and start draining some of it out waltz all together like this okay see how much comes out of there I mean it's just floods out of there whoo baby to get some more rags here I'll drain it out like this and that way we can see in all these passageways inside of here because once you take this bond it played off of here and we're looking around the check balls making sure they're okay and their valves and looking for these pieces of this retaining clip we can't see it through his dark fluid so you want to drain it out now as much as you can't move around a little bit now once you drained it enough the best you can we're gonna go ahead and we're gonna pull off this bondage separator plate in order to do so I think there's a bolt like right here and besides that there's the bolts right here and here for these reinforcement plates and that's all that holds it on just kind of loosen these take them out I need you to cackle on here it has a suction to it these plates are the same thing over here okay same thing and then there's a bolt over here very top and that's gonna stick to a big time okay gonna fluid and you know from the bond of that the paper and all that work it past the guides on there and look at this side and the other side generally these ones are reusable but I'm this truck has two hundred fifteen thousand miles on it so I might go ahead and replace it now at this point you want to do another dump of the fluid really let drain out so we can get in there and look all these valves test them and make sure there's no chunks of that overdrive servo snapping in there now the only thing that I know of in these to watch out for it's gonna dump out on you besides fluid is all these check balls there's eight check balls that are inside of here and as long as you have this location paperwork right here you can just pick them out of there and put them back in at the end it's a good idea to check these check balls because they're they're like rubber balls on these instead of steel so they have a tendency to actually crack in half and cause other issues with this transmission so it's a good idea to get in there and check them make sure they're all intact so I'm gonna go ahead and just start pulling these out of here and put them off to the side instead of just dumping it over and letting them roll out because they may roll away so we'll go ahead and just pull these out you just look around con them as you go they pull three out so far and just get them out of there there's what this one looks a little beat-up that's four here is five that one's really beat-up okay that's six okay here's another one seven and then there should be an eighth one here somewhere I'm sure you guys thought it before I will that that it did that me it's on the other side I think this valves gonna pop out here too I'll watch for that oh here it is right here so all these balls these check balls and I think's flying around these little check ball should all be the same size as far as I know I've never seen a transmission I pulled apart that was different sizes so look at these ones you see em they're totally different sizes these two it's just we've got all beat up and it's a lot smaller now so yeah it's something to check while you're in here now again this valve right here I believe is going to fall out so we're just gonna watch that as we start dumping the fluid out try to get it out of there the way that it is there we go that's a little piece right here so put that off to the side it's like burping a baby alright there we go all that drain out while I get some more paper towels okay now here we go we're looking at here is this valve right here this is the overdrive servo regulator valve and while I'm in here I will check the rest of the valve just to make sure they're free you can usually get in here to pick and move them back and forth push them against their spring and then they should come back and seat on their own that's how you are not sticking in the board there again we're going to check for metal pieces and all these circuits where I can potentially get into there especially this overdrive servo regulator right here that's about right here now as far as testing the valves on here they can be tested a couple different ways it depends how they are orientated in the valve body like this one right here has two halves to it so we're going to test this side pushing in and it's returning just fine whereas over here the other half of it the spring is over here so we got to push it from this side and some of these are you have stronger Springs and others you see moving in there I let go and comes right back no problems nothing binding up so there they're tested all different ways in here sometimes it Springs in the end sometimes it's done in the front there and he has a little blocking plate see how it is on these you simply move it back and forth and just go through and check each one of them on here and with it emptied out we can see you know if there is anything holding them up or foreign debris in there or anything now these valves over here much bigger now none of these valves really has anything to do with 4th gear ok 3/4 shift valve can affect it but we're just checking them all because the valve bodies out ok it's a good idea these are all running really smooth this one's nice and smooth right here there's another one over here and they compress in all different ways so let's try work them they should all move that's where they're in here they're valves that move and open and block off different ports on here this one right here it's really hard it's got a nice strong spring in it believe that comes back and forth no problems there's a little one right here okay good to go same thing now the problem with testing these valves this way is that they can they can some cases I can win a five-hour 55s transmissions they can stick when they're hot you have the expands they get stuck you can also look on the lands of the valve as it moves back and forth see there's any scuff marks on there where it may potentially hang up when it gets hot on there and this one right here should be our overdrive regulator valve so we'll go ahead and push on this one this one's a little slow to respond down here this part of it is just fine though and this is the actual valve that opens and closes all those different passages on there so not everything passed on here what I'll do is I will flip it over let it really drain out of there and then we'll do a good visual with the flash I threw all these circuits to make sure everything's okay but at this point it looks like all the pieces are out there over here but then again look we've found so far I found that that check ball that was much smaller than the other ones and the one other thing I mention is that if you don't see as large snap ring have any chunks missing off of it any pieces missing off of it that may be stuck down in the valve body what you want to look at is the e clip on here so not doesn't happen as often but the Eclipse ears they can break off same thing fall down into the valve body and hold that valve up right there so you want to make sure you do a nice thorough inspection so we go into this once get all our pair products we need put back together torque it down no fluid filter and it's like brand new once again do it right all right the parts came in so let's go ahead and start reassembling the valve body and once everything on here is clean looks good to go all your valves are free all your old check bowls are out of here always want to change those we can go ahead and get started so the very first thing we're going to do is put in the check balls okay and you can kind of see where they all go on here there of course are eight of them they'll put its staple right through this thing of course now it's funny as he check balls from Ford they know there's eight of them in here they give you a pack of seven and that's great so I'm just going to pick the best one out of here and one of the old ones here and put it back in so there's one right here one right here and I also linked down below to the the diagram of this where all check balls go but you can kind of see the little bathtub area here where each one of them go this one right there okay and then our beat-up one over here number seven nice new check ball in there there and right there and then there is one way over here okay so those are all in there everything is clean good to go you want to put your convertor drain back valve back in here there's no orientation same both sides just drops in there we go now the other thing you want to check any time in here is there's a little screen over here a little wedge of a screen over here make sure there's no debris in there that's supposedly a solenoid screen in there so you want make sure that's nice and clean now at this point you can put our separator plate back um if your gaskets are in good shape you can reuse them you notice make sure they're lined up properly on there still but for me I'm changing the gasket style it's like couple about couple dollars for a set of gas it's down here and you just need to be careful taking it off take it off slow so it doesn't start chunking off little pieces on here that gets to be a pain cleaning off brother wise comes right off and we pull them off fold sides clean it up and reuse this separator plate itself now the way the I put these back on I'll actually put them on separately back onto here flip it over and that way it's lined up perfectly cuz there's these little alignment nipples sticking out there that fits it in there perfectly there's no shifting around will simply make a little sandwich with it this way it's perfectly you know done you know perfect perfect perfect put one of these on here just like that perfect now the one thing that I do do do do with these top ones because they can curl from the packaging is I'll actually wet them up here with some some trans fluid that just you know you know suction to the plate here keeps a little suction on their little bar convey on there merkon v there we go now watch your just top one it's especially important to align it so much stick I don't know doo-doo-doo-doo and you and you kind of push down a little bit like so you see that and now keep it flat so we're going back up with this thing try and keep it all balanced we're not having to worry about this gadget curling on us and pinching or anything weird like that okay next we're going to install these reinforcement plates back onto here nice only go one way see it's kind of look on there do all the bolts line up yes no no no yes so just make sure you check them all and they will line up perfectly like that both of them so put these in again by hand you don't want to cross anything in the valve body torquing of the valve body is very critical in any area on it so these plates going back together all that and if one bolts up here we took out earlier there we go and then like I said the same thing with this plate it only in lines up one way otherwise it's way off get these in by hand and all these bolts right here are the same same length same pitch all ten mill heads on them and then we'll just simply snug them up [Music] [Music] okay and then we're simply gonna jump around to these ones these ones and that one and torque them to 89 inch pounds it's like do a little crisscross pattern when I manage work them down and then this will be set an array to go back up so it's finished or knees down and then we can move on to serve Oh installation all right now this is the most important part the park the Avon make sure you get it correct now of course you wanna make sure that this bore inside of here is nice and be bird okay and then what you want to make sure of is that you get it full at the snap ring fully into the screw for the servo but also I don't think it's seat up in there or not but the band is hanging down so we just Jen that servo in there it's gonna miss the band it's what you got to do is come over to this port right here you see the band right there that little hole we're going to push off like that with a screwdriver initially and then we're gonna come over here to this board and use another flat blade long screwdriver to the board and push the band up and then we're gonna hold the band in place while we're pushing the servo into place to catch the band with something like this something wide and curved okay it's got push the band up and hold it meanwhile we're gonna push up further far enough with something like this just be careful of the actual bore inside there so you don't you know start gouging it up with the screwdriver once you're past the bore you have a smooth you know shaft here so I'll show you how to do it but yeah you got make sure you catch that band the owner and the band there and it's hard to see up in there but yeah else we're totally gonna miss it we're gonna have fourth gear as you still gonna have to be able to fly it alright here we go you're ready to laugh yeah it's gonna be a little difficult to install I may look funny of course we're installing a brand new servo my mind actually came apart on the stall on new spring you can just use clean transmission fluid for the seal on there but I'm using assembly Lube for transmissions just so it goes in nice and easy and protected and I'm sure I'll even put some in the bore here the idea is to get it past there get a set and not damage the seal on there alright so once again we're gonna use a nice small flashlight look up inside there we're gonna get a hold that little eyelet on the band here move it up far enough so that we can get our long screwdriver in there just watch the bore it's gonna be a little tricky want to get a hold of that band and hold it with something like this okay and then that same flashlight look up in the bore yep I could see it the anchors there then we'll take our completed servo get it in there just kind of Center it and wiggle it around she'd be some really good resistance just like that now we're going to use our spring compressor or servo compressor yeah a little bolt in here and these are just bolts that are in the valve body here keep pressure on it so they can hold that okay we're good to go we're looking good [Applause] now again to make sure we're hitting that band and we're driving it tighter to go up high enough put our snap ring in we can look through here and tighten this and we'll see the band moving once it's in the pocket and the anchor of the band we're good to go now if you don't have this fancy spring compressor or several compressor from OTC which is a 307 251 what you can use you're on the ground working a bottle jack a nut you like a press piece maybe to Center on there and just go real slow with bow jack and compress up in there the idea here is to again do it by hand so we know what's entering in here not cutting the lip in the seal okay I can feel it no resistance at all it's just going right into there we're compressing the band or starting to depress the spring meanwhile I'm making sure all this is happening by watching the band and you know start to see the band move now what we're gonna do is we're gonna go up high enough here hot enough no it's going up there okay we're good we're just gonna go high enough to get in that snap ring groove that's really nice about this tools I'm using a little 3/8 ratchet you know nothing there's no way I could over tighten this or do anything like that you really got a good feel for it so I make sure you're well past the snap ring groove on there so we can get that snap ring fully in the groove there you go it's installed the band is moving we can see it through here and then we're gonna put a snap ring in we're gonna make sure it actually snaps and all the way around it's a good secure connection snap rings again I'll link to all these parks down below tools everything so you guys know exactly what's going on snap rings come in a pack of eight so in case you want our horseshoes you know I mean jeez everything else is still individually except for this stuff so what you're gonna do is you're gonna you know get up in here get it past your tooling and then we're gonna hook it and we're gonna get it inside the bore and these aren't so bad they really are now once it's inside of there put the flashlight up instead of in your eyes and you go a little further it's why it's good to have a flashlight what I do is I don't release snap rings in there bore I get them close okay like so and then I'll push them into there I like to hear the snap I want then a snap aggressively into the groove so they fully seat on their own in the groove okay so just give it a good look see all the way around make sure it's even all the way around it's in the groove it's gonna hold for us orientation does not matter so what I'll do now is I'll bring you in a little closer here as I'm sure you guys are screaming for a close-up shot let me turn the light on for you I hear some better lighting right there you can see we fully tightened it up into there our snap ring is fully in the groove see that it's definitely in the groove all the way around okay you look through here we can't see that I let no more on the band okay can't see it no more so we know we can press it up plus we you're watching it through this port with our flashlight not at this point everything looks good to go I know I'm a little shaky here I need more coffee we're simply a lure our bow Jack lowly or the tool until it relaxes onto their little set on top the snap ring here we go now we're gonna pull the tool down make sure all these channels are clean all the way around make sure this sucker don't fall out there's nothing retaining these just kind of wedge into there and once they fall out that's a pain to keep them up in there so make sure that guy don't fall out the other one is snap ring in and then this one snap ring in we just completed this one quick wipe down and we can install the valve body here we go valve body installation everything's cleaned up and ready to go our rebuilt without bodies over here ready to go now you may notice when you pulled all these bolts out there are different sizes like two different sizes so you'll see I have two batches of them longer ones and shorter ones okay and then we took out this bolt for the spring here and puts it aside so we know that one's different and I didn't mention it but there's an EPC bracket with a special bolt - that one is longer which is the same size as the long bolts on here so in case you mixed them up the EPC bracket does get a long bolt now the places where these bolts go are pretty simple short where it's stepped down like this all the way around whereas anything you see all the holes here write anything on this plate that's reinforcement plate here gets the long bolts so it's pretty simple what we're going to do is when I put it up there get a line of the pins on the outside you have any good to go by hand looks good and we're going to start putting bolts in the center here the longer bolts remember longer bolts trim in by hand and then it's gonna hold it for us while I start getting the rest of these in there and everything else now the critical part is this manual valve cos manual valve right here this little groove right here you want to line that up with your manual shaft right here okay so it can spline up meanwhile it's pinned into the case here at least there are screws and then everything uncle back together right without distorting anything now installing a valve body is not hard it's just a lot of weight above your head to hold up and it's critical that we get everything lined up that's all now before you start tightening down so looks a little something like this we're gonna be on this side so we gonna look at that manual valve and make sure it lines up on there you'll see you'll just kind of fall in the place like that lush a couple of long bolts and thread them in by hand this will supportive for us and these should go right in by hand no sweat and now get a short one over here going again by hand now I usually hold it until two or three bolts are in not long one over here let's say right here just so supported on both ends in a course in the center and we can just snug these by hand while you're doing this you can look at your plate up here make sure the gasket looks like it's good to go still all the way around and then like I said little shape back and forth there should be perfectly aligned with the manual valve right here to the manual shaft you can spin it a little bit of play all that's not binding up at all that's what you want and then you start the painful process of putting these bolts and it's make sure you pin back in the proper spots for their length that's all there is to it and then I'll bring you guys back here at the end where I show you how well the torque sequence on here not going to be able to show the torque sequence but torquing it is critical and then we'll put the torque sequence link to it down below so you guys can print it out have it with you okay and you can sit there and do it right torquing of valve bodies on transmissions it's critical one thing I learned over and over again especially to 5-hour 55s is for whatever reason there's a lot of issues guys just zipping them down and they warp it's over and you're buying a valve body not worth it do it like this all by hand so the old cross thread torque them in sequence to spec and be done be done now as a bolt hole right here hopefully you guys can see that you'll see the install too but that one is for this funky bracket that supports the EPC solenoid so what you're gonna do is you're going to install into there and we're also gonna make sure that locks into the EPC solenoid it may have moved but there it goes see that's all I flushed by hand one side with the EPC Cilla night around a little bit and that makes that supports the EPC solenoid but also make sure it's straight and all our stuff so our molded leave fringe click into it and be good to go they're locked in and then the spring goes right here you guys don't see it the roller beyond the manual shaft and then back here to lock into the valve I be a little nub back here and that's where that one goes and that'll self align once it's tightened now some of you may have caught the fact that I did not install the screen back into the case but we took out earlier like at the valve body up and the reason being is Ford according to Ford any tiny pulled the main control down for service whatever you're doing you can just go ahead and throw that away no need to reinstall at all okay there's no need that's that's one of those assembly type things where they catch the initial debris and then that's it now once this thing is up and torqued down okay last checks you want to do are again make sure that's locked in there everything's good to go and then we'll go ahead we'll install this molded lead frame we took off earlier okay it simply goes into place what I do is that will snap it into these two evenly okay and then I'll work it out to this one of course everything's lined up first but snap it in here first and then go out to here and over here okay and then we simply need to put our filter get back into there and put our pan back up it's that simple okay and I'll put torque specs for the pan bolts down below I think they're ten foot pounds I believe but I'll put it down below there's no torque sequence for the pan itself the gasket is reusable so again no need to wait for any kind of sealant to dry okay simply start filling it up right after that initial fill of six quarts now right here you see right there that's where that dipstick comes through and that is why I told you you gotta remove that to make sure you don't squash it going back sealing the valve body he will squash it right here in between so that's another area to check if you didn't take my advice and pull us out at least make sure it's not pinched between about by in the case right here it happens it happens very easy so check that also stamp it back together pan up we can go up top and fill the transmission the way you fill the transmission is old-school right down through the dipstick tube okay I use transmission funnel makes it nice and easy to see it's all the up here fits and they're perfect but you can use whatever works for you it doesn't make a mess now the initial fill for the transmissions can be at least five four to merkon V or merkon five you want to use merkon five nothing else okay we're into five quarts initially it may take up to 8 quart because of the drainage this truck sat for two days while waiting for parts and a drain drain during the whole time okay you have five in there initially to be safe you can start it keep it in park come back over here and we can start chucking the trans fluid level don't put it in any gear until you have proper fluid level that's key here you got five quart [Music] we've got Idol settle down we can go ahead and check the level again in Park now this right here I want to make a point I will try to get you focused in here you see I said there are fluid levels good no it's not you check the other side the fluid is still traveling down the dipstick tube and there's residue in the walls in there see you can get the wrong reason so a check both sides you can see we're actually low we put in our tried two for two at this point at this point we're up to nine quarts of fluid just to get a reading let's take a reading show you guys how it's supposed to look okay again I'll get you in here try to get the thing to focus here you can kind of see that side it's nice and high that's what it really is see it right there we're in the cold bar now at this point reading we can go ahead put on the brake and put it through the gears come back the park and then recheck the fluid level make sure we're still in the hash marks and then you're safe to go for a test drive okay so everything inside feels good all the engagements just fine nothing's harsh to be going to gear we move just a little bit back and forth no sweat one final two a double check before the test drive and then after this test drive you can check the fluid level at the hot mark on the transmission dipstick you

Channel: FordTechMakuloco

Views: 439,284

Rating: 4.8364363 out of 5

Keywords: FordTechMakuloco, ford, fix, problem, repair

Id: Ikk56cIHL_g

Length: 54min 46sec (3286 seconds)

Published: Mon Aug 20 2018