Ford 4.6L 5.4L 6.8L 2v Engines Blown Out Spark Plug Repair: Permanently Fixed in About 15 Minutes!

[Music] hey everyone welcome back to the shop once again today we're going to go over another one of those common issues you may run across with your tube valve a modular engine now the engines I'm talking about of the 4.6 liter the 5.4 liter and a 6.8 liter 2 valve engines these engines have a real problem with the spark plugs just blowing right out of the cylinder while you're driving down the road if you're just driving along driving along these fine and all sudden boom the spark plug blows out and they says popping and it sounds like you're driving an old steam engine or something like that it's really loud and you're gonna think man my engine just let go no it's actually a very common failure but if there's a real easy fix for it now back in the day you had to actually pull the cylinder head off bring it down a machine shop machine a new insert into there and then both everything back up it's a really expensive labor-intensive process whereas nowadays you can do it while the engine is in the vehicle still they pull the coil out and get to it now the kit we're gonna go over today is from Caliban tools I'll link to it down below it's a real high-quality kit that puts a nice thick insert in there that's gonna allow proper heat transfer back and forth as the engine heats up and cools down so becomes an actual permanent repair inside the engine now there's a couple other videos out there on YouTube that just our bumbling they're all over the place with extra information you don't need and then there's a lot of misinformation going on so today I want to go over how to use this kit to fix your tube valve engine and get it back up and running and on the road so first we're gonna go over the kit on the bench so it's nice and clear and then we're gonna do a live demonstration on this vehicle number for ya weight in the back is blown out on here let's get to it alright let's go over the finer points of the install process here on the bench so you can see it up close and you know exactly what I'm doing over there on the vehicle with the live demonstration now the very first thing you're going to do is take shop air connected to this rubber stopper open the we're gonna push it down into the spark plug well and then we're just gonna let it go until this thing just pops out now if it doesn't pop out what you're gonna do is you're gonna turn the crankshaft over until the valves close and then this thing will blow right out at that point we're gonna look down that spark plug well with the borescope to make sure the Pistons down you know three four inches at least preferably down at bottom dead center okay so we're gonna make sure that that piston is away because we're gonna drill through and we're actually gonna come through the other side of the cylinder head you don't want to touch the piston okay and once that's done and then the valves are closed and the Pistons out of the way and this thing goes away it's a very very handy tool okay the very next thing we're gonna do is we are going to use this guide right here and it goes right down into the spark plug well and it just sits there okay and then the flat side here goes against the cylinder head so holds it perfect and true in there and then that won't spin a course that way and holds it really nice to make sure that the beat drill straight and true now next thing we're going to do is we're going to use this reamer right here to go down in there and we are just going to use an air ratchet and we're going to go all the way in and you're gonna push push some force down on that air ratchet while you're spinning in there all the way until it bottoms out right here on this cross pin right here and that you'll feel it too it'll actually break through the other side down here and you'll feel but this will make sure it doesn't fall down into the cylinder now the lubricant I use for something like this in general is either wd-40 or tap magic something like that just to lubricate it so we don't burn anything up and make the tool last longer some guys like to pack the flutes on here with bearing grease to collect the chips the problem with that with a cylinder head application like this is that if that goop of grease with all the chips in it pops and goes into the cylinder I got glob of it it's gonna be very hard to get it on its most like sticky in there almost at that point whereas just a little bit of oil on there yeah there's me chips the cylinder either way but at least they'll be dry enough where you use that air wand and blow them out okay so that's we're going to do today we're gonna use a light cutting oil now once you're through you can pull it back out we're gonna pull this out - okay and then we're going to stick that air won't wand down into the cylinder we're gonna blow out get all the chips out of there the best you can okay we're gonna start off fresh that way then we're gonna take our tap same thing like cutting oil on there okay and in this case because the tap had right here to be too big we need to actually come through this other side here from the bottom and assemble the tool and then we're gonna take this e clip that comes in the kit and we're gonna put it into this groove right here and it should pop in there pretty easy and what that's gonna do is gonna let you know when you're fully through and also make sure the tool won't fall into there in case you just go away too far past the threads so we're gonna do is we're on pace to take this whole thing together and put it down into that spark plug well same thing this goes against the cylinder head and then we're simply going to tap new threads into that cylinder head until it bottoms out on the eclip okay now they tell you to use an air ratchet for this I don't like to tap threads with an air ratchet I'd rather do it by hand even though it takes longer up to you okay now once that's done your course gonna turn it back out and take the whole thing out again we're gonna go back down in there with our air wand blow out any kind of chips that are down on there but we're also got spray Blake brake clean down in there just flood the cylinder out and then just blow everything out of there okay we're really gonna wash off the threads we just cut on there and the reason being is we want the new inserts to actually glue to the cylinder head and we're going to do it we used to do that is either j-b weld high temp which I don't like to use or Loctite 266 this is a time-sert version of it which is a high temp red loctite okay and that's gonna hold it in place for us so we're going to do is where I take our brand new motor craft spark plug with a little bit of anti-seize on there we're gonna take our new insert make sure the outs of the insert is cleaned with break clean okay nice and dry and blown off and then we're going to apply a liberal amount of this all over here and then we're gonna use the spark plug itself down into that well and we're just gonna be like installing a spark plug same idea and you're going to tighten it all the way down to around 20 to 25 foot-pounds what I'd like to do on these to make sure it's in there and set and that's it you don't touch it at all we're gonna let that that adhesive set for at least an hour preferably overnight and then we can fire the engine that's it that's all there is to it and it can be done in about 15 minutes okay even with a really good cleanup let's go to the vehicle and try it out all right here's a nice clear shot of the cylinder number four that blew out on this 4.6 liter engine the amount of components that you're going to need to remove is gonna vary based on your your engine size your model in your year because it varies a lot but the basics you need to remove is like the engine harness right here I'll get it out of the way a little bit your plug wires or coil on plug coil and that course we're ground disconnect you know injectors and stuff like that around us we have clear access so the very first thing we're going to do is we're gonna go down in there make sure that the plug it actually is out of there obviously if probably blew out and is gone by now so make sure all that's out of there but we're also going to take our air wand nice long air one like this and we're gonna get way deep down in there and just get a good clean-out to start off with okay now once all cleared out on the side of there and we're good to go we're gonna start the very first process of the toolkit okay the very first step and that's gonna be to use this little rubber stopper and the air valve to put some air down into that cylinder and that's gonna help us make sure those valves are closed even though we can't see them be proof positive that they're closed now those are metered orifice inside of here so it puts a certain amount of air down in that cylinder and make sure that it is closed and then it's literally gonna fly out its gonna pop out here be very DEP definitive that they're actually closed so we'll make sure this is tightened and closed we're gonna get our shop air we're gonna put it right into here okay and then we're gonna open it and it's got a lot air to go down in there now most of the time you're just gonna hear air rushing past here and nothing happening that is when you need to get an 18 millimeter socket and half inch breaker bar and we're going to turn the crankshaft via the crankshaft bolt and we are going to turn it until this thing blows out of here he'll come out of the intake here actually so we know it's the intake valves open right now we're simply gonna turn the crankshaft and pressing blows out of there now the way this is metered is that it's gonna be there's there's only a certain amount of air coming through here enough to make this thing pop out okay and it's gonna require though both those valves be fully seated so it's a very cool little tool to get it done and sealed up inside of there now that it's actually seated inside there all the valves are closed it's closed off cylinder you want to make sure that piston is way deep down in there preferably closer to the bottom but they say at least two to four inches down from the top here now you can use a straw method and get an actual reading down there you can use your iPhone sometimes and look down in there we're gonna use a Boris go to make sure it's way down in there so when we drill and that drill comes through the other side with the reamer it doesn't contact the piston top all right let's take a gander down into the cylinder and what I'm using here is just a real cheap basic endoscope that's on Amazon we can get down in here we get a lot of valuable information during this process of things like 16 bucks I'll link to it the very first thing you want to look at is make sure there's nothing odd down on down the cylinder and kind of foreign objects and you also want make sure that there's no previous insert that's half coming out in here you can see right here we only have a couple threads because the that's the problem with these there's only a couple threads and that's why they blow out that loosen and blow out but their factory threads in there okay so we're good to go there everything looks good now at this point we're gonna look down past that into the cylinder here and we're gonna make sure that the piston is down you know three four inches at least now that reamer and even the tap is only out comes through it's going to come through the threads here and pop through and that's about it you're gonna start pulling it back out of there so we're clear as far as the piston goes we know the valves are closed all cells we're good to go here look at this thing you can see the crosshatch pattern in there that's pretty impressive for a sixteen dollar and scope but we're gonna use this thing a lot in this process to make sure it's done right let's get started and we are clear for takeoff so the very first thing we're going to do is put this guide flat side facing the cylinder head it'll fit right against it just like so okay and then we're gonna take our reamer and use either grease or a light cutting oil like I'm using we're gonna put that down into here okay you know sit there and then we're gonna use an air ratchet or Electric ratchet or whatever you got and a half inch socket deep that's why I like to use and we're just simply going to ream it out now this is gonna take a little bit of downward pressure up top here on top because this is designed to either chip or shave away at the at the threads in there okay and make a bigger hole it's not going to take off big chunks and curlicues like a drill bit okay so what is that process now again we're going all the way through until it's been basically drops and it'll come right through these this cross pin right here see right there just fell through and we're good to go this point I'll make sure it actually is cleared out and now it's riding on that cross pin you gotta remember everything in here is very very close so it's precise fit in there at this point we should be able to wiggle this thing and take it out there we go yep and we'll pull the whole thing out of here as a unit hey comes with some chips in there not this point we're gonna do lots and lots of clean out everything sealed up inside of there so nothing can get anywhere else and we're going we're off besides this hole so let's introduce some positive force inside of there you know pressure and blow it out it's like Christmas huh but that's the nice part about using a light boil like that is it's not all bogged down with grease so I feel like gets him out of there even better you know I could see us coming up all right and next we're going to assemble the tap to the guide by going through first and then we'll put this Eclipse right here we go and then again I'll use just a little bit of cutting oil tap oil tap magic whatever wd help us cut okay so we'll just guide it back down in there now that most the chips are out we can do a nice clean cut and tap on here we'll get that guide all the way down and then the tap is all the way down right there I like to kind of turn a little bit and get started by hand now they say you can use you know the same air ratchet electric ratchet and half inch same thing and it's got a little bit slower and bring it all a down and tap the threads it does work fine if I'm gonna do that at first I'm going to use a gearwrench on here and turn it by hand you know the first thread or two or three to make sure it's in there nice and true so again a little bit of downward force and we'll get started in there nice and straight so we can get this thing to tap actually started maybe I remember these are made for each other so they're you know it's gonna be the right size ready to go for this tap so I still like to get it started like this though okay now then it's in there couple threads and started let's try this smaller Milwaukee a ratchet will finish tapping process and you can also back it out a little bit and kind of clear the chips you know it's not totally necessary but may help sort of lined up especially when using a ratchet like this electric ratchet so we're gonna use the other one so we can power through it slower it's basically through at this point we're just those fuel lines again so we're gonna change over to this one again and you'll find it's very easy this point until it bombs out in the e clip that's it and then we'll simply take it back out again nice and slow with some control [Music] [Applause] it's a great part about these Milwaukee electrics is that you have better control I feel then an air ratchet so much better control all right so we pulled it all back out at this point and again we'll pull the whole shebang out together right now starts the cleaning process forget all this for now we're going to that cylinder real nice and clean then we're clean the outside here and then we're going to go back into the cylinder and really clean it and then we're gonna use the borescope her endoscope gotta get down in here and look all around inside of there make sure it's really clean the idea with its air wash you want to get down in there as far as possible close as close as possible of that piston see me when I straighten it out stuff like that I don't really get it down in there adjust your angle don't get real clean in there all right now with our initial clean out down in the cylinder we can stick our endoscope back down in there check the threads real quick as you go past and then of course check for any kind of shavings down in the cylinder still all right let's take a look look at those threads not so bad you look really nice going all the way down and through so we can fully seep that insert and you see that thicker part right there that's the stop or shelf I guess you could say Ridge that's gonna stop our insert in there right location and we have threads going all the way down so we can use that that Loctite 266 and make sure it's good to go so right here we look pretty good okay I'm gonna keep down in there a little further what you want to do is use your mirror to look down around inside of here for pieces like that and that is why you want to straighten your ear wand and get it down there as far as possible so you can get to those pieces that are way down and that blowing air is not just gonna GUP need that direct contact with the air there's little pieces here and there but it's pretty darn cleaner ready yeah we'll just keep going until we can't find anymore these pieces okay it's all there is to it all right at this point the machining part of the process is over all that scary unknown stuff is over we're going to do now that it's reamed and tapped is we're simply going to start the cleanup process now as you can see I start cleaning up here already what we're going to do is we're gonna use the air wand down on the cylinder over and over and over again keep using the endoscope to look down in there we're also gonna do though is we need to clean those threads from the cutting oil we just cut so the new threadlocker can actually set so we're gonna do is we're gonna use some brake clean down in there okay and we're going to really blast a little blast like that and all that's gonna go past the threads clean them as it goes down but we're also gonna have a little pool inside the top of the piston and that's gonna loosen up any of those chips that are inside of there and bring them with the fluid when the fluid shoots out of there it looks a little something like this you have a nice straight air wand here once again get it way down in there and make sure you move it around like a 360 pattern best you can he to get these chips out of here is changing the direction of the air it really is I found that out you can't just stick it in there and hit it you got to actually swirl it around a little bit now with that done I mean ah can India we're gonna do now is we're going to do that maybe two more times and then we'll recheck with the endoscope you'll find after like two three times that's cylinder down there be nice and clean and of course light brake clean our threads are clean now ready for the new insert so it's finished that process and that will go on to install and insert properly all right it's all cleaned up we're satisfied at this point we're gonna take our spark plug and thread it into our insert that came with the kit we're gonna put a healthy dose of the special high temp thread lock around there just like that okay we're all ready to go our gaffed we're ready to go now the one other thing I can tell you is that you want to make sure you're using either this one or two Loctite 266 because they're special sealer that can go up to 500 degrees okay and you also want chaque you're used by date make sure it's not expired else it won't set okay all right and then we're simply gonna take a regular spark plug socket put this sucker down in there thought touching anything else hopefully and we're simply gonna screw it in now my preferred torque spec on here is around 25 foot-pounds I said that feel for it and you want to throw this in by hand you'll notice at first you know I can feel it right down the threads you cut aren't gonna be like perfect like a machine shop or you know an assembly line but it'll be a little bit rough but you should be all threaded in all the way down until it seats by hand like I'm doing right now but I prefer to do that so I can feel it [Applause] my proper then shall I know and nice use a standard 3/8 have a feel for it keep it nice and straight it's gonna crack the porcelain and we're gonna seat this thing once it's seated that's it it stays there and it cures and we go and it's set now at this point get this out of here at this point it's done the hole insert process is done the sealants in there it's gonna cure you can go ahead and start reassembling the rest of the engine so you can go ahead and fire it now with all that brake clean going down inside of there you may want to do it will change after you know a warm-up cycle or so just to get that that brake clean out of there shouldn't be a problem too much should they gotten past to the compression rooms down there but it's up to you so yeah that's the whole process it's very very simple as you can see it's foolproof almost just cleanliness is the name of the game here

Channel: FordTechMakuloco

Views: 468,669

Keywords: FordTechMakuloco, ford, fix, problem, repair, blown out, broken, 2v modular

Id: md_HQcZZEpM

Length: 28min 39sec (1719 seconds)

Published: Mon Jun 04 2018