Ford 5.4L 3v Triton Engine Removal & Installation Part 1 of 2: Removing The Engine

[Music] hey guys what's up welcome back to the for tech make it local channel today we're going to show you how to remove and replace your 5.4 liter 3-valve engine from your Ford f-150 now because we're working at o4 f-150 right here the procedure is gonna look exactly the same 404 308 Ford really didn't touch the engine compartment at all whereas Oh nine and ten models Ford start changing a few different different things in the engine compartment so it's just gonna be a little bit different but the same basic principles apply and of course also applies to the expedition the navigator the super duties that all used this same engine okay what's great about this video is like they do a lot of detail as you go along here plus a lot of tips and tricks for getting stuff out of there reinstalling stuff and what to check while the engine is out the idea here is to do it once and be done and a perfect smooth running leak free engine in the end it's a lot of work let's get to it alright you guys ready for this it's gonna be a lot of work but in the end when you take that first test drive with your brand-new engine in there it's gonna be super satisfying now I'm not gonna go over everything in detail where you sit there and watch me take off individual components that would be like an 8/10 hour video what we're going to do is we're going to point out items to take off and then we're gonna cut to the next area and tell you what to take off on those and then we'll go over the critical areas like pulling the engine out and then mating it back up with the trans in detail the very first thing you want to do is disconnect your negative battery cable to eight millimeter nut on there so we'll go ahead and disconnect that and then want to wrap a shop rag around it and kind of isolate the ground so it can't connect down there so we're safe for now then immediately after that you want to pull the hood the hoods coming off any way to pull the engine up and out here but you want to think up now because getting back into these deep dark areas here the hood gumbies so much easier trust me what you want to do to be safe is pack some rags in here underneath it and then a pack a rag that's folded in you know three four times over here down on the side so you protect defender both sides okay and we're gonna go ahead and we're gonna mark the hinge location to the hood that's gonna make lining up the hinges so much easier in the end everything's just gonna kind of fall into place use a permanent marker a grease pencil whatever you want and then we're going to take one of these bolts out of here get it off to the side then with someone holding the hood right here holding it kind of supporting it's a lumen with pre light you're gonna come over here with a flat blade screwdriver a pic you're gonna get in there and that little slot right there get underneath there and you're gonna pop that clip out of there and then pull this whole lift strut off of here you're gonna know you're gonna take it and you're going to lay it down right here on top to fender this side stays in same thing on both sides and then with your assistant holding the hood you're going to zip off the last bolt it'll kind of sag and lay on these racks and they can go to the other side and do the same thing and then you pick up this whole thing together up and off of here and put it off to the side all right now with the hood gone we can go ahead and start pulling off some of these bulky items in the engine compartment here and start clearing it out but first let's start draining the engine coolant and the engine oil will get those draining the whole time we're pulling everything apart in the in department here so go ahead and pull your cap on a cool engine relieve pressure and we can come down here on the passenger side of the radiator and look for this 19 millimeter hex right there you see it right there loosen that and they'll start draining the coolant and then of course back here is where the oil pan drain plug is at low and drained while our pulling everything else out in the engine compartment while you're underneath your draining fluid is a good time to start spraying everything with rust penny I use the Mopar stuff you can use pbd blast there and get that locally the areas you want to hit underneath here are the engine mounts so there's two bolts right here two nuts there's one there and one there small one get those soaking generally this side is okay we're gonna come over here we're gonna hit these a couple times the nuts for that the cat converters for the pipe here those two 15 millimeter nuts on that side and this side you could see them up inside of there and way around this side go ahead and hit all the bolts for the starter they're all in here in the in the bell housing a lot of times they could Road big-time this nuts in a car road for the ground strap you want to spray everything back here at the trans and the crossmember here there's two bolts that bolt found the trans mount we need to unbolt these and slide the trans back we're pulling the engine so spray these now to get these soaked and these will be really bad just like this yeah I think those are the main key areas you want to spray away underneath here do them a couple times spray em really really good these stuffs gonna be corrode a big time all right now if things draining and soaking down below we can go ahead and start pulling out some of these big bulky easy-to-access items up here and that's gonna open up the engine compartment so we can get to the meat and potatoes and start pulling this thing out of here so first thing you want to do is pull the battery out we're gonna finish pulling that out so pull down the positive battery cable off of here eight mil nut and there should be eight millimeter hold down bolt right there get this battery up and out it's gonna be freaking heavy while you're over here once that's gone you can start pulling the PCM out of here these connectors simply pull back like that and they come out so take those out and then there's four ten millimeter bolts on here holding it to the bracket and then behind that me it gives me a black bracket has three ten mil bolts take that out put it off to the side in the same place next we're gonna get this air horn off of here one ten mil bolt right here and then you pop it out of the air box and you wiggle it out from the fender over there and put it off to the side bolt and air horn together then we'll go through the air box itself and there is a harness right here and clips into it there's a PCV hose right there just kind of comes off it like this pull down on this and wiggle it out and it comes out and then this side there's mass airflow sensor connector and then four bolts there's one right there there there right there and the whole thing will just lift right up and off of there while you're over here go ahead and unbolt the power steering reservoir from the bracket there's an 8 mil bolt right there there and there and then we come back to it we'll have access to the fan shroud and we'll get that out of the way next - and that's gonna open up the engine compartment big time so we can get to everything else look at that everything is starting to open up in here and with a few components removed and remember as you pull more and more stuff off it's just saying it easier and easier to work on now with that air box off of here you want to put some rags on top of your throttle body so we can keep any debris from falling into the intake I know the engines junk but we are reusing the intake manifold you don't want anything down in there next we're gonna concentrate on removing the fan in the shroud in order to do so first you want to brake torque on the hub on here this one's a 36 millimeter hex on here most of these are up until I think mid year oh seven they went to a forty seven millimeter size on there it gets huge and those ones have a wire and electro viscous clutch on there so you see a big old wire coming up and over to this side right here and I'll bracket in right here if you have that disconnect the electric connector on this side while still bolt it up and then go ahead and unbolt a 13 mil here take that and the bracket for the upper radiator hose away and the same thing over here - 13 millimeter nuts take them away with the bracket and then once the fan clutch is loose just leave it loose right now but attached we're gonna go ahead and we're going to pull this appearance cover off of here the early models had a big ole one like this and the later ones have a small one right here either way they're held on these Scrivens see you unscrew them put it aside and this whole thing lifts off of here then you want to go after these two 8 millimeter bolts one right there and one over here on the top of the fan shroud that's what holds it in and also disconnect that harness has clipped into the the fan shroud and then what you'll do is you'll spin the fan off by hand okay holding it and get it separated from the water pump there and let it drop down slowly and then we're gonna take off the fan shroud and the fan together pull them up and out together and you gotta kind of angle it and get it up out of there maybe I'll try to show you that for you guys alright so here is how you do it it's a little tricky to get it out of there so the fan has dropped down you loosen it already the fan straps ready to go we're gonna pick it up - great get it off the lower pucks in the radiator and we're all loose no I think it's loose and free what we're gonna do is we're gonna pick up the fan and the shroud together okay see you're gonna kind of pick up this one side over here start clearing everything make sure we're not finding in the fan then we're gonna stick our little arm through here we're gonna keep angling it see how keeps angling and dropping down over here coming up over here they come past your cooler lines over here keep wiggling it'll pop right past them no sweat moving on next we're going to remove the serpentine belt the way you do that is use a half inch breaker bar or ratchet put an attention er down there and push down that will release tension pull it off one of the pulleys and it comes loose right now before you do it though is a good time to take a picture of the routing on here so you have a note for later on make it much easier and then we're going to remove this bracket right here for the power steering reservoir so take the reservoir and the hoses point it down tuck it on the way disconnect the cam sensor right here you know just connect that back to this side then follow this harness over to the next retainer in the valve cover you want to pop that off of there and get the harness out of the way and then this bracket pretty much free over here okay just kind of hooks around the stud right here but down here there's a big old 18 millimeter bolt you see right there yeah you gotta loosen that you know five six threads you gotta take it all the way and then this thing kind of pull back wiggle it and get it up and out of there and that'll make that nice and free at this point is a good time also to pull this clamp right here and upper radiator hose pull from this side too so we're free and clear and then over here for the reservoir you want to pull this clamp clamp it pull it back and down disconnect over here and then take this hose and tuck it down and around the well indicator to right here and that'll hold it in place while we're pulling the engine out yeah so get that done for now and then we'll come right back to it and go after the power steering pump now is a good time to start removing some of these odds and ends from the front of the engine there are four 15 millimeter nuts in the front right there there's one right there and both of these hold the radio interference capacitors in place the problem with these is that you go take these off and they're seized to the stud so this whole thing laps around and it ruins the capacitor what you want to do is hold the hex behind here with the vice grips kneeling those vise grips and then break torque on these and get them off down below straight down there's another 15 right there for the power steering line and then over here there's another one for the trans cooler lines and some models have it a 13 millimeter right here that holds the AC compressor muffler okay also all you want to pull the alternator so you got to pull it all as one piece so pull that bolt right there a 10 mil bolt right there and then that one right there okay and then that one and that one disconnect the harness over here follow it over to the positive the 10 mil nut right there pop that off put the nut back on after you pull this cable off and they take the bracket the cable and the alternator out of the way we need to get that out of here so we can get access to the other intake manifold also we need to pull the power steering pump and this is going to be a sure this one's actually C's down here so I'm leaving it on but normally you don't leave them on the best way to do it mostly they'll come off get this down and out of the way and you can get access to the two top bolts on here let me get you in here there's one right here there should be one right there for those I use a standard flex head ten mil gearwrench and they come right off no problem down below on the backside here there's another bolt it's actually a stud bolt and I need a 10 mil deep and a quarter inch ratchet for that and you can get that from down below or up top here's no sweat now on the o4 models though they had to be different what they did in the old four models is they put the bolt for the lower bolt cuz they only use three bolts they put the bolt in the front bolt hole here which is right next to this high-pressure line so you can't get it out of there what you can do is use is pull the oil filter off okay well put oil filter off so you can get access and then you use a gearwrench like this a straight one though not a flex head and you get down in here the oil filter out of the way and you can get behind here and wrench it off you just kind of push the line back and out of the way and you'll get it onto the head of there and you loosen it as the last bolt and it'll loosen and it'll come away from the block all as one unit the idea here is you want to take you want to unbolt the power steering pump from the block and kind of lay it to the side high pressure line these lines everything stays in place just lays off to the side like I said on this one staying on because of the its ease down to the block there at this point it's also a good idea with that that pump out of the way you'll be able to get to the clamp on this lower radiator hose where it goes into the oil filter adapter I'll try to show you down in here you can see it you'll see it really easy with the right ther seat right there you'll be able get to that very easy with this pump out of the way so you want to unclamp that and then you're gonna take that hose here and kind of fold it up and put it off to the side over here and that'll keep it out of the way yeah so get that done and then we'll start tacking some of these hoses and harnesses up here on top of the engine one thing I forgot to mention earlier is when you're pulling this lower radiator hose off either from the radiator side like I had to because of my sees the pump situation or if you're pulling it off that will filter adapter like you're supposed to either way there's gonna be a huge flood of coolant coming out of there even with the radiator drain it's all trapped in there so be ready for that with a drain bucket the other thing I forgot to mention is once you pull the nut off this stud down here on the passenger side lower you want to go ahead and slide off your trans core lines and battery cable brackets get them down and underneath there and disconnect it so they're not hanging up when we're pulling the engine out now at this point we can come up top here and just concentrate on everything up top here is huge mess the idea is to clear all this stuff off of here so we can get the engine ready for intake removal at the next big step so even though the Bary box is not really in the way of pulling the engine out it makes some of these connections over here much easier to do so what I'll do is I'll take it out there's four thirteen millimeter bolts top and bottom on here and they pull up and away and there's a little vacuum line the backside there the other thing is there's a connection right here the vacuum connection going over and feeding the eye to bees and the HVAC system so disconnected right there so that's disconnected from the engine and next after that you want to start removing all these heater hoses there's a clamp right here and then you go back up and underneath here and there's another heater hose right here both sides or quick disconnects what you do with these you push them in you squeeze and I click disconnect and they pull them off okay and each one of them and then of course follow this went over to the heater core disc next that one too then what you want to do is pull off these PCV lines on both sides one right here to the way these come off is the same way I showed earlier you simply pull back on this locking tab okay and they wiggle and pull up and they'll slide right out they're all quick disconnects on there your evap hose right here you simply come in and you press in on their release make a big wiggle and pulls right off will tuck that on to the intake and take it off with the intake and then at that point we're going after the engine harness now some guys disconnect whatever they need to from the intake when we pull it and you leave the harness on the engine I don't do that I pulled the whole thing off put it off to the side and I do a good inspection of it and it's cleaner to get to everything with it out of the way so just follow the harness all the way around so there's here's a piece of the engine harness you just keep filing it down cam sensor down here we have crank sensor and an AC and you follow it up while we have ECT you just kind of follow it along till everything's disconnected and you can take it off the vehicle so yeah it's a huge mass but to me look real nice once it's all gone from here and out of the way so we'll come back after this and we'll start pulling the intake all right up next is intake removal what we're going to do first is we're gonna get in here with some compressed air and we're going to clean up all around the intake around the water cross over the intake it's like one big valley down here collects all kinds of stuff also you want to clean your fuel line connection you can see it's just full of packed the stuff you want get that clean before you disconnect it and then we come over here and start pull items like this ground strap right here eight mil bolt unbolt it lay it down and then put that bolt right back in there's a special ground bolt then we're gonna go over here we're gonna start unbolting all these ignition coils or seven millimeter bolts both sides there's four on each side so go ahead and pull the bolts and the coils get them out of here and then we can start concentrating on pulling the water crossover and intake together so the first thing you want to do is unbolt the water crossover it's no bolts at ennobled to eight mill bolts right here for the water neck then you can get to that one right there it's another eight middle that one's a little hard to get to see it's way down that until you unbolt the intake now what you want to do is go along there's about four or five ten mill bolts all the way back that bolt this intake to the heads now once the intake is unbolted you kind of lift it up a little bit and it's loose you can get to this last bolt right here very easy it's not eight mil right there for the water crossover and then once the intakes up and all the way and this is Bolton you can lift up and snake it out of there now once it's out of there but you can go ahead and lift the intake and pull it forward a little bit and that's gonna allow us access to the backside here which is going to give us access to a bunch of connections especially in the earlier models the oh nine and ten models don't have all these IMR C rods and connections back here so it's a little easier but you see all these connections here here and there on the other side too and then you see that main harness right there that actually bolts up to the intake there's a stud coming out the back of the intake and a nut see it's a ten mil nut on there but it's right there in the center you'll see it you'll see it and you'll feel it so you're gonna need to disconnect all that noting there routing through the IMR see rods so it goes back together the same way else you're gonna hang up those IMR C rods pay attention now it's a little hard to get tolling stuff right now but once you pull on both the intake pull it a forward like that it'll be easy to get behind there started bolting all this stuff and seeing what you're doing the other thing that I'm doing just because I have the recovery machine over there is I'm sucking down the AC system and I'm pulling all these AC lines out of the way including the accumulator right there you don't necessarily have to do that you can kind of unbolt the accumulator and move it out of the way a little bit and snake the engine out but because I have the machine I'm pulling all that stuff either way you need to get in here and pull the AC compressor we need to unbolt it from the block now the way you do that is you go down underneath the vehicle and you'll see a 10 ml bolt right there there's one further back you see it there and there's one single one up here right there they're all 10 mil you unbolt it you won't be able to take out this top one but you can pull out the two bottom ones no sweat get them out of there the AC compressor will fall away from the block and then you pull it forward with the lines attached he's kind of lay it right here on the cross over this crossmember right here and it'll be out of the way while I pull in the engine so go ahead and get to all that stuff and once all that's out of there we'll be able to fully remove the engine harness too because we've been able to get to the rest of the connections back there and get that totally out of there and then we go basically start on bolting the engine from the engine mounts and the transmission and lifts right up and out of here pretty cool huh all right now with the intake unbolt it I'll show you how this looks this last bolt right here is still holding it in on the water crossover but the intakes unbolt it's me a little like that it's gonna be stuck after a while so which one do is lift it up high enough like that so you can get in here unbolt it it's an 8 mil you'll be able to get in there just kind of lift up pull back wiggle that see that lift this up a little bit and now come out of the way all right now let's show you real quick about the fuel connection over here now most of them have the regular spring lock connection like this the Garter spring which uses a 5/8 quick disconnect from Lyle it's really basic what you want to do is of course make sure it's clean and then we're going to push it forward a little bit you know I move it around a little bit and then we're going to push in the quick disconnect with our rag and I'll disconnect it now later models have like a blue clip on here you simply pull back one side of the clip and squeeze it together and pull it through so those are those are things from oh seven on you'll see that so the way it looks is you simply push it in get a rag around it it should be low pressure if no pressure by now and you'll release it just like that see now inspect these two o-rings on here make sure they're okay get this stuff off of here and then we can pull this now while you're pulling the intake up and off of here and you're going like this and you're like this there's me a lot of fuel pouring out of here so be ready for that besides that like I said we've a wiggle wiggle get this thing up and out of here and pull a forward about six inches or so three four five six inches as much as you can and then you can start getting behind here on both all that stuff and release the intake it's kind of pain but you can do it here's a good visual of how it's going to look when you're pulling the intake up and out here yes you can't just pull it and be easy of course it's got to be complex so once you get up and out this far you let notice it gets hung up back there so back here I can show you now all these harnesses right here see all these connections for the knock sensor and and everything else down there they go up and over these IRC rods you see their rods right there going across they go up and over they don't go behind it you needed to pay attention to the routing look behind here and the same thing in the other side all these connections go up and over the rods okay so pay attention of that coming out and going back together I think there's two connections on both sides and then there's one connection in the middle for the IMR see motor so start disconnecting all that let it fall through and then you should be able to pull this intake up and out of here with the intake off of there I'm gonna show you a bit better just to clarify to help you opposites really tight back there all the connections you're going to disconnect to pull that intake off so there's this one right here and that's for the CHT sensor we have the one right there coming on up for the knock sensor right hand bank we have one over here for that Bank not answer and then here is the IM RC connector and you also have to deal with there's big brake booster vacuum hose now it looks just like this in the old four models only whereas old five it's a little bit different either way it clamps in down there or doesn't clamp in pushes on depending on your setup and it's probably pretty swollen and probably it's gonna fall right off well if you're catchin your hanging up on anything it's gonna be that vacuum connection right there now with that out of the way we can start removing the entire engine harness so we can get the engine out here next I mean this is like one of the last major items up top here is the harness so what you'll notice is that it'll be connected going down right here see if one wire right there and there's one on this side those are going to the o2 sensors so you want to disconnect those from the bracket unclip them and then at that point pretty much you should be able to pull this whole harness up and out of here at that point I would be nice and free back here what you want to do is get in here with a ratchet or a flex head or 13 millimeters of the bolt right there see right there or and right there those are the two top bellhousing bolts that are bit hard to get to from down below as you can see right here they're pretty much right in front of you so unclip the vent and you'll be able get to this one and the same thing on this side no sweat and get those bolts out of here then at that point we can literally go down below and start um bolting from the frame and the transmission so it's loose and free to come out alright at this point with everything torn apart topside you can see it's one big mess up in there but it's all apart ready to go we need to do the same thing down below here there's a lot of different items to unbolt and get ready for engine removal and at the very end I'll show you in detail how to separate the trans from the engine so we can get that out the way and then this thing we ready for liftoff at that point lift up and out of there so I don't eat the vehicle here there's a bunch of items we need to unbolt starting off with the engine mounts so in the passenger side here they're just me two big studs coming through in thirteen sixteenths nuts and the plate right here you want to take all that off on all five of newer models whereas the old four models has a thirteen sixteenths like a 13 mil over here I want to take those out either way on the driver's side this big long bolt will be the same so it's a fifteen sixteenths head on there and you want to use a long extension and a half inch breaker bar you know kind of get the extension in there bring it back to here and use your bar and loosen it okay you want to loosen loosen loosened by hand because the impact will not break that free there's tons of Loctite on that big ol bolt in there so we're gonna take that bolt fully out and we're gonna take these nuts fully out and that will free the engine from the frame don't worry the engines not going anywhere next we're gonna remove the starter so there's a third of them getting up in there thirteen mil nut there ten mil nut there and then the over here there's a bunch of bolts where it bolts up to the engine blocks they gave a better view here so down below here there's a stud it's a 13 mil and it's a 13 mil nut on there holds the ground and then if you go up top here more you'll see there's our bolt there and then even further up there's another bolt those are also 13 millimeter I do have a detailed video on how to remove a starter on one of these vehicles that'll help you out tremendously okay now the exhaust on here either way they're going to look a little bit different but they're all gonna have a 15 millimeter nut on there so one right there of course one top side there kind of see it and the same thing in the driver's side here and they'll disconnect the exhaust from the engine okay next you want to remove this bracket right here for the transmission shift linkage it's a good idea to pop it off of there it just kind of like get your cat claw in here and just pop it off okay these are two ten mill nuts and then you want to unclip your wiring here for the oxygen sensor this harness this side and that harness goes all the way up you see up there that goes to the engine harness that you're trying to pull off top side so and you disconnect it from down here and then this whole thing will pull up and off of there leave this dangling this bracket and the cable can stay together dangle off to the side and they'll give us access to the bellhousing bolts on here okay now there's one two and that should be it one two up there and then there's one hidden behind here see them now umm the passenger side got a little bit hard to get to kind of see one right there see it 1:13 millerite there and one right here so go ahead and pull all those bolts out but these two bottom ones will night there and one right here that's hidden behind here we're just gonna loosen them you know a few threads and that's gonna hold and support the trans while we're separating it on there so leave the bottom ones in there easy to access now the one other thing we need to do is unbolt the trans from the crossmember here so there's two 18 millimeter nuts go ahead and pull those off and then we'll use that to slide the whole trans back here in a minute when I show you how to do that when we're separating it transfer the engine um let me think what else down here not too much more you can see I got pulled up AC compressor on mine still and stuff like that I can also see this big gaping hole here from the front axle being gone it's much easier in two-wheel drive vehicles the other thing on two wheel drive vehicles is you're going had the big old transfer case right here and the front propeller shaft coming up to the front differential right here you want to unbolt it right here the four bolts on the front I've shaft there 12 mil 12 point you want to unbolt them and separate the drive shaft from the pinion flange on there and that'll just kind of rest right here out of the way okay and then I'll allow that'll be separated so when we slide the transmission and the transfer case back all the one that drive shafts can get dragged back with it okay and that'll allow us the ability to slide that all back together so yes look around down here you can see we're just gonna bolt a bunch of different items and get it free and then next we'll show you how to separate the trans from the engine and get that separated at that point this baby's gonna be a rock and you move it so I'm gonna sit there and rock it'll be free and ready to go we are so close guys just a few more items to remove and disconnect and we'll have this engine out of here in no time the next thing we need to concentrate on is disconnecting the engine from the transmission here and the first step in that process is to remove the rear driveshaft will you do that is you come back here and you chop your wheels because remember we're pulling the driveshaft and that's the only thing holding the vehicle from rolling away so you need to chop your wheels then we're gonna go ahead and paint pen mark it so we can line up going back together and then you can proceed to remove the four 12-point twelve millimeter bolts once you get the last one out of there hold the driveshaft with your hands and it doesn't come down on your face and you want to tap on it on either side with a hammer and they'll kind of break the rust bond to the pinion flange here this whole thing will drop down and then you come over to the transfer case and just pull back and it'll slide right out of there the reason we're doing this is because once the the transmission is disconnected from the engine we're gonna slide it back remember those slots I talked about earlier in here we have a full inch we can slide the whole assembly back and out of the way and that'll give us clearance to pull the engine out the one other thing you want to do while you're underneath here is come up on the passenger side fender here pull back the skirt and you see a big ole 18 millimeter bolt right there that holds the transmission dipstick tube in place into the head so pull that out and then this swing the dipstick tube out of the way all right now now comes the critical point of unbolting the torque converter nuts at the flex plate right here so what you want to do is line up the torque converter nuts which are 40 millimeter with this relief in the pan here see us relief from the pan this will allow you to get a ratchet up inside of here and break torque on those so I'll try to hold the camera while I show you so we have this little extra room in here to get up in here with a regular 3/8 ratchet get it on there and then we're gonna start to loosen you can see the whole assembly is moving that's just fine what you want to do and get a better grip here is give it to the point where it hits the separator plate there it'll stop and it'll hold it for you and then you could you can break torque on once you break torque on it you want to get this out of there and then finish off pulling it out with a regular 14 millimeter gear wrench in there and that will come right out then there's three more of them inside of there so what you want to do is come up and up through the front of the crank shaft here there's an 18 millimeter bolt right there you're gonna use that turn the crankshaft clockwise as needed so you can line up the next stud and nut with this relief in the pan here so you can get that one off too and there's four once that's done we can go ahead and start loosening the rest of these bellhousing bolts out of there and then we'll work on sliding this whole thing back and disconnecting from the engine now the time has come to separate the transmission from the engine and when we do this is we're still gonna keep these two bellhousing bolts in that we left earlier one on this side and then one on this side they're gonna stay in there just like that still thread it in and then we're gonna come back here to the transmission crossmember remember earlier I show how it's oval inside of here well these both these nuts are out this thing's ready to slide back so you simply get in here with the big pry bar to one that studs and you're gonna pry and the whole thing will move back just like that kind of jostle a little bit and it'll move back and you start to see it over here how it's separating from the trans from the engine on there so let's keep doing that [Music] it's like that see how it moves go side to side stud to stud and you can keep going back on there and get separated now once it's separated enough you can get a pry bar up in here and kind of help it over here the source where you separated at on this side right here you come on this side you can see it's it's nowhere near as far out as the other side sometimes they get stuck in the dowel pins which usually right here here so these wasn't a little bit extra attention with a pry bar right here a long flat blade screwdriver to kind of get it even and get it unstuck from this side and then you simply just keep going back until you hit the back here and you can't go any further that'll be enough disconnect from the engine over here for us to get up and out of there and clear those studs on the torque converter now for the final disconnect from the engine what you want to do is come our Neath here with a jack and a block a wood like that spanning across the front ridge of the pan will support the transmission ever so slightly and then we'll finish pulling these bolts out right here so it's supporting the back support it in the front and [Music] bellhousing bolts out of there like so and then you can get a pry bar in here and finish separating it on both sides as far back as it goes in these slots all the way back you want as much room as possible as much disconnect as possible from the engine now at this point the engine is ready to come out but first we got to clear some space so you can get it out with the radiator in but it's iffy because it's right there at the thing dangles and moves forward it's kind of smashed right into it so it's pretty easy to get it out pop the trans cooler lines and then there's a 10 millivolt here and on the other side and this whole thing will lift up and out here and be safe then it's a good idea to flush it anyway it's like I'm gonna do a mine over here you definitely need to remove the wiper collies see how far out it sticks on there compared to the firewall right here I mean it sticks way out so it's got to get out of there what you do is just pop this off of here and then you kind of squeeze back at these points right here squeeze and lift okay and then over here is a little push pin retainer and once you flip this up you can kind of pull out the whole wiper call here where hooks underneath the windshield there at first though you want to go ahead and remove your wiper arms and luckily they're very easy on these you kind of pull up like that so let's loose and then you come to the lock right here pull off with your fingernail and up and out of COEs and then once all that's out of there there's a bunch of 5.5 millimeter screws all the way along on here that hold this up get those out of there and we'll be ready to start pulling the engine up and out of there and so next what we'll do is I'll show you how to secure your lifting sling to the engine valley here and pull it out finally all right now at this point just to our quick a visual check make sure everything is disconnected from the engine of course the trans is now fully separate as far back as we can go you should be able to move it just like seems ultra loose and we can go ahead and start mounting up our chains our lifting sling whatever you have your equalizer you want to bolt it in up here in the front and these two holes right here there m8 by one point two fives and then these two bolts holes back here which are m10 by 1.5 millimeter so you want to go ahead and get those all bolted up to your lifting device and then we'll get the engine crane over here and start lifting it out finally the time has come to actually lift the engine up and out of the vehicle so what's going to do is have your engine crane over here ready to go recheck double-check triple-check all your attachment points bolts and nuts on here make sure nothing got loose everything looks good I mean you go ahead and start lifting it up just about all of these will tilt back so you want to kind of put some pressure in the front here and keep it level if your the equalizer adjust the equalizer and you as you lift the engine up you want to pump the trans up all the way till the top of the bell housing there hits the body as it goes up so as we're pumping over here we're pumping over here okay and now the kind of max it out allow it to lift up and out of the frame and then once it gets out of the frame the whole thing will slide forward and then go up and out here we go raise up a little bit go ahead and Jack it up we're giving about even you want to start grabbing the engine start whittling on the minute it's very very loose right now keep going up hold on over here raise the trans a little bit okay check it Bell housings getting close it's like a little bit more right there now we're starting to come forward and disconnect what you do all right now seat pumping I'm whittling and pulling forward okay we're disconnected to the trend that's very very important now we're basically disconnected from the trans we're kind of sitting level we're going to pull this back a little bit okay pull back a little bit a little we're still in the frame a little bit right there perfect don't move it where waves from the trans at this point so concentrate on securing the trans make sure your trans isn't falling out make sure the torque converter isn't it kind of popping out of there a little bit of transit six of course any cool leak in here and there as it as the engine tilts at this point were far enough forward reason you go up until we start hitting this wiper collar right here or the firewall and then we can come forward and up and out and kind of see and make sure you're not attached to anything still we're free radar just England pull no weird sound okay hold on now we're at the floor hitting the firewall the underneath there so we're gonna pull it forward and this is where it gets tricky if you still have the radiator in here this thing's dangling all over the place and if you easily hit it and damage it right now we really can't damage much okay jostle it for a little bit and between here and here especially build accessories down there it'll just make up an out of there so every Center in there make sure you're clear you dipstick tube over here now you go ahead and start lifting this was holding three level we're looking back down below bit forward until it's just about touches up here at the core support and we're going to hit out of the house here but you can keep going now you can see right here we're right against it that's good to go you want to also look behind here make sure that that flex blade snap chewing into the wiper Howell there we're good there too little bit of leakage here and once you get past or you just start swinging around all crazy be ready for it see right there you got you ready for it keep going what you want to do is just clear the core support right here just enough that's it no more and what I do is I clear the vehicle as soon as possible okay toward you don't push it too much we're at a high center of gravity right now and you want to make sure you get the lift is still stable so if this point would clear the vehicle it's time to stop bringing it down for safety make sure you're clear around it make sure you loosen it ever so slightly and you lower the center of gravity hopefully you guys can still see all this watch it and it's out you

Channel: FordTechMakuloco

Views: 245,487

Rating: 4.8692884 out of 5

Keywords: FordTechMakuloco, ford, fix, problem, repair, swap, engine

Id: EA-wi56daBQ

Length: 48min 42sec (2922 seconds)

Published: Thu Oct 17 2019