What to Inspect BEFORE Buying a Used 2004-2008 Ford F-150!

[Music] hey everyone welcome back to the for tech make you Loco channel today we're going to go over some common failure points you want to look out for when purchasing an 11th generation Ford f-150s we're talking Oh 4 new body style througho weights and some of these failure points even apply to the 12th generation Ford f-150 oh 9 and 10 models that use the same powertrain think the 5 4 3 valve for instance so we're gonna do is we're gonna go over them in detail let you guys just I'll show you guys examples under the hood inside the vehicle and underneath the vehicle and we're also gonna link down below to all my repair videos on how to repair these common failure points if they failed already or if you just want to replace them prematurely like I'm doing on this truck that I just bought to make the vehicle as reliable as possible there's a lot to get to let's get started alright well let's get started now once again today we are just going over common failure points associated with this generation f-150 this does not replace a full used vehicle inspection which is much more comprehensive so let's get started once you open the hood and you look out front here the first thing you want to concentrate on is the front crash sensor right here these have a real issue with the connector the wiring and even the sensor corroding with all the elements coming through the grille and just constantly pelting them so I've seen them so bad where the sensor itself is just splitting aside and bulging from all the corrosion and it won't set a dtc that'd be just coming apart so when you get a crash the thing it's not gonna work so I do a full visual on these and everything looks good on this one so I'll apply some of the Motorcraft XG 12 grease and kind of seal it up and protect it so it works in the future now once you get into the engine compartment here you can see it's one big mess and there's lots of common areas underneath here coming failure points so let's go ahead and start with the electronic throttle body right here oh for was the first year that Ford used drive-by-wire technology so as you can imagine them with a learning there and sure enough these had a issue with the TP sensor right here on the side he see how it's a shape that's the first generation sensor second gen was more squared up at the end and then third and fourth gen was this big old box see how thick that thing is and these suckers are reliable luckily you can or place that separately if you find you have one of these you can buy it separately and bolt it on unlike the newer throttle buys which come as an assembly the plate itself and the motor side are generally very reliable it's just the tipi side over here next let's look at the other real common issue which is the integrated wheel ends or vacuum hub system for the 4x4 system so this little solenoid right here controls a vacuum down to the wheel as that disconnect and connect the axles to the hubs okay the problem is you see it right there what's right above it the wiper column all the water comes down it flows down naturally through here just soaks this thing right there on top that cap that's a vent that's how all the water gets in a lot of times the they get stuck inside of y'all corroded it gives a partial vacuum out ruins the vacuum hubs and the axle and the hub because it all splines together down there it's half engaging or they actually have so there's get so bad that water flows down those vacuum lines to the wheel ends and causes the same problem either way if you had this generation right here this style right here take it out immediately and swap it out with this one right here this thing is like $27 this is a revised design from Ford it's the same solenoid but now it includes this plastic hood so it bolts up right in place to the other one but it's protected from all the water and the elements so you don't ruin your ìwe system down below which is very very expensive let's go over here to the front end of the engine right here and focus action the front idlers the the smooth idlers the tensioner pulley and the grooved idler down they all have a real real issue with you know corrosion causing the bearings inside there start pitting and then it sounds just like a power steering noise like a power steering pump which is right there so these are making noise right here your think for sure it's the power steering pump when all reality just the bearings inside of these so do a good visual on those pop the belt off spin them and check them out the tensioner especially is really really bad about this here's one from an expedition to say an exact part number and the bearings they they get really really bad inside of here nursing one sees but they start coming apart like this and they sound horrible this guy actually thought his timing chain was coming apart on his expedition and it was just his tensioner okay the other issue with these is that when this bearing fails so bad like this does the the pulley doesn't walk this way it walks this way and where's it go it starts grinding into the front cover of the engine and that gets real expensive real quick she wants to die on that stuff any kind of noises like that and pre check all that stuff before driving one of these vehicles it's very very common now the other common issue is the fan clutch itself on the Oh for in 205 models head up issue with them cycling low to high low to high so the vehicles just sit in your idling and it goes wrong oh and that's the fan clutch itself ok another another common issue as far as vacuum leaks the one common vacuum leak is this evap hose right here so the vapors are coming in from the tank to the purge valve and then this is the vacuum being supplied till this is constantly under engine manifold vacuum and as you can see the deteriorate after a while and they can actually suck in and get really bad and then it becomes a huge vacuum leak she had some rolling idle issues and stuff like that of course appeal 171 174 codes speaking of vacuum leaks there is another issue as you can tell there's a lot of issues with the brake booster hose see have main vacuum hose that goes up and feeds the booster for power sister breaks on the O four models they didn't really have a major issue with these but it's still a same kind of issue with the hose that goes down and behind at the lower part of the intake it likes to fall off so then get a huge vacuum leak a vacuum Li large enough for the engine to stall and you have you start you start to lose power sister brakes it was actually such an issue with the new pipe design on the old five and O six model this is an old for UCI just comes around like that this piece right here falls off the intake because it's soaked in oil at the bottom of the intake and it swells and it falls off okay now on the O 5 and O six models they had a different metal tube bracket but they had a hose like this at the end of it just like this with no clamps though so once that swelled up it just kind of fell off a real real issue and that's why it was a recall in the old Fido 6 models with this fancy little piece right here so that's something to look out for if you have any kind of lien codes you want to go right after that and make sure you check your brakes either they feel like they have power assist to them let me see what else is on my list here oh there's a couple hour issues on this side over here now of the all the hose clamps on the whole system here all over the place the one that's gonna give you an issue I see most often is the driver's side a lower radiator hose clamp ok and the vehicles up north where they rust enough a lot this clamp right here the very bottom it's hard to see that actually cracks right in half so you lose your clamp load around the hose and it'll start leaking on here ok I've seen that way too often and it's all due to corrosion the other thing about corrosion is these these these power-steering in lines you can see and come up and through there you see how this one right here goes into this clamp on the the frame right here that's a real common issue common point for corrosion and then they start to actually break in half and just leak out all your power-steering fluid not to mention all the other lines down below on the rack I'll show you guys here we go under the vehicle another issue with corrosion on these vehicles as you guys are probably all screaming by now is the steering shaft right here the universal joints top or bottom where it goes into the rack they get corroded and they seize up so again it's one of those things you want to check let me get you a better view here if you're not having any steering issues where it binds at times throughout the range of the steering what you want to do with these is sprayed them with rust penetrant at these joints top and bottom and then wd-40 and then fluid film and from that point on just keep up with coating them with fluid film and they'll keep them protected from all the salt and everything coming through on the fender skirt right here okay now usually they bind up and you replace the shaft and it's very expensive it's like 276 from Ford and the aftermarket ones don't last so don't even bother with them whereas this one has a knockin in the steering and looseness to it and this one actually the lower joint down there is warm okay so what else what else what else yeah so the other issue that is not a real big issue but something to know is that on these ones expeditions and the explorers the alternators on these for whatever reason in the winner a lot of times we'll have a hooter noise like while you're driving another Road in the winter while the vehicles still warming up that's just the bearings inside the alternator it's not a big issue I've never seen one lockup but it is super super annoying now I'm sure by now all you guys are just screaming hey what about the five four three Bell is right in front of you how you going to all this other stuff and ignoring that I'm not ignoring that we're saving the best for last now if you guys don't know it already the five four three valves introduced on the O four nude body style like in this truck right here and it was a very popular engine okay very very popular it's like every vehicle that came in had two five four three Bobby they're the ever saw it four six and the four two later on when they start offering again so the five four three valves probably what you have and I have a whole list of common issues with this engine on a playlist that I'll link to down below with all these other repairs that I'm talking about here link to all the repair videos down below so you guys can kind of fix them as you spot all these different things okay the time has come to talk about the Ford 5.4 liter 3-valve triton engine yes dong dong woo this engine has a lot of engineering faults to it but luckily the base block itself is very very strong like most Ford engines it's everything a bolt on around us the timing set the phase there's the valve train the oil pump was inadequate there's a lot of issues with all that stuff but as long as you take care of the oil in there and then you change out all these parts to the lasing greatest Ford parts they'll last past 300 thousand miles no sweat so since this engine is out let's go over a couple of different noises you may hear from this engine and where they're coming from okay now this truck right here is getting a new engine that's why it's here because the right hand head for one reason or another was bone-dry okay so it kept running but the King you know the camp actually melted into the cam caps here then they cracked under the pressure so I'll have a whole our on our video on that and a teardown of this old engine to see what that have happened so on this engine everything all its problems are relate back to the timing set and the oil pump being inadequate on here okay there are some engineering faults associated with it but it all comes back to that and that's why do timing sets all time to fix these and bring them back to life so the most common noise you'll hear these engines is as a hot idle hot I'd on a full operating temperature you'll hear loud knocking noise right this area in the valve cover okay and it sounds like a media rod knock or a lower-end knock but it's concentrated right here that's the the locking pin inside of the phaser in general there there okay to leave that way it's just a noise there's not actually gonna come apart on these some of the earlier miles the old fort old five the first year for these phasers they did come up hard but otherwise they are just fine okay it's the aftermarket ones that come apart all the time on you when they start making those kinds of noises now the other issue with these is a start up rattle noise so after the vehicle sits for a couple hours and everything kind of bleeds down this tensioner right here is plastic from the factory has a bead of sealant in the backside well that thing that sealant blows out after it sometime and then when you turn the vehicle off everything kind of bleeds out so when you go start it up there's a lot of slack in the chain here and it needs to pump back up in the meantime these chains are just beating against this upper guide on here and eventually they'll blow right through it and then I'll start banging on the cover and put metal into the engine so that's one you don't want to ignore start up rattle that lasts you know one two three five seconds that's coming from the tensioner that's bleeding out on the old plastic ones that are causing all that noise that's not to be ignored not only does it cause the chain to beat into the guide and the front cover but it can also chew into the oil pump right here it'll do it eventually and with these bleeding out it actually starves the BT system and the right hand head not good not to be ignored also the oil pump like I alluded to there they're inadequate from the factory so you want to put on a Melling high volume oil pump whenever you're going inside one of these to do anything with the timing set on here to make everything last that much longer the other issue on vehicles that are not properly maintained is these VCT solenoids the spool valve inside here likes to stick from all varnish so you might get some tiny error codes or chugging at head stops and that's all to the the the solenoid valve the spool valve sticking inside of here because these phasers they timing as you're driving and they're supposed to come back down to fully advanced when you come to a stop and if that's sticking in there it's gonna keep it and that position in there okay let's so you get a lot of issues with the VCT system with that the PIO one one one twelve to one and two two codes all timing error related the other issue in the valve train here is the the lash adjusters there are common enough failure but the roller followers especially these roller followers right here they can fail on in a year seems oh four oh five was a big issue and then i had to i saw a resurgence of failures i say oh nine to fourteen expeditions where these were failing again okay you know case in point over here this head is from a 2010 f150 and the follower failed and you let it go to a long starts chewing in the cam and a kid that cam lobe came around and it got wedged in there and it blew out the casting in the head right here because I hit the lifter and drag the lifter out and let the cast in the head just because of a literally a four dollar roller follower this guy spent thousands yeah so you don't want to ignore that any kind of ticking in the valvetrain that you can hear constant ticking noise and you'll know it's a light ticking noise at the valvetrain tick okay and that can come from the followers or the lash adjuster but mostly the followers especially on that right hand head you don't want to ignore that another issue which isn't really an internal engine issue but it's often misdiagnosed as a valve train tick is the exhaust manifold now these exhaust manifolds they come with regular steel studs from the factory and nuts and after a while dal salt and corrosion everything inside of here they'll actually get so corroded they'll pop and then you lose a clamp load on the manifold here ghost rolls hot and cold cycles and it warps so a lot of times see you up here or back here to last to on here they'll pop and some of them will Kuro it and pop lose the clamp flowed and cause an exhaust leak which you can see by carbon right in this area but the actual stud and the nut will still appear beyond there okay so it can be deceiving the carbon in between these ports on the outside is what you want to look for and that'll last for you know two to three seconds three to five seconds depending how many of these studs are popped on here I have an expedition here it's a no wait over there outside actually and that one has so many studs popped on it that it has a really loud start uptick noise come from the manifold but while you're driving it makes kick noise too cuz there's too many of them pop down there that is another real common issue the way to do it is a new fork manifold like this and stainless steel studs and nuts from Ford with the latest Ford gaskets one other issue which I might go over on the other one I have a video on also I'll link to all this stuff down below is inside here and if in the very rear is the crankshaft thrust washer and on the oh seven models those like to fail oh seven oh eight some Oh sixes they like to fail okay and there's a test you can do with crankshaft and play in vehicle on the crankshaft dampener so yeah there's a lot of engineering false associated with this engine but luckily the base engine itself is good to go fix everything around to latest Ford parts and you'll be set alright run out of breath here let's go to the interior and check it out moving on to the interior there are plenty of common failure points inside of here nothing too critical but some can be safety related like the HVAC system right here think about if it's not working properly and not clearing your windshield properly it's not safe to drive down the road so these quick checks can really help determine the functionality of the vehicle what you want to do is have a key on engine off and then we're going to come over here we're going to test the functionality of a temperature blend or actuate the most common failure the HVAC system in order to do that we're gonna turn the modes to any one of these modes turn the system on speed once we can listen to the actuator and then we're simply gonna turn the temperature dial hot to cold cold to hop and listen you should be able to hear this the actuator I'm moving a little bit in there and stop it a little bit in there and stopping if you hear any loud clicking noises right behind the radio here you know the actuators teeth is broken and you need to change it out before it gets stuck on either the hot or cold position sometimes it can go right past it a lot of times if they just get stuck okay it's not gonna be good when that happens the next thing you want to check on the oh six 207 models they have a real issue with the red parking brake warning lamp staying on or coming on and going off but most of the time they just stay on oh six 207 models and that's an issue with the cluster board itself so in order to fix that you replace the cluster or send out the circuit board medics and have them repaired and they'll send it right back to you no programming required it comes right out of there now that that steering issue of trying to show you earlier under the hood where they get stuck that u-joints and then get rotted and they start binding and they get stuck what you'll feel inside of here you feel tightness at certain points throughout the range of motion on the steering wheel here and that is the most common failure whereas this one has just the opposite that you joints are worn and the way I checked that you're simply at the key on engine off you see how is playing here yeah and I actually checked it out it's the lower joint on there that has failed on there and that can be another safety issue that joint where's enough on there and brakes you're not gonna be able to steer the vehicle so you gotta look out for this kind of stuff another issue is this parking not parking passenger airbag deactivation light right here it's a warning lights these are real common to fail when they do they'll set a airbag light over here so you want to look for that turn the key on it's in go solid it's going to prove all the sensors and assist out including that light and then I'll go out if it starts flashing you know you have an issue also you can call her here and it's gonna prove this out right now you turn the key on boom it's on to proving it out and then they'll turn it off make sure that's working because that whole thing you just buy the whole thing there's no individual bulb inside of there change out now as far as the windows goes if you issues with windows on these these are cable driven so there's a lot of issues of the cables inside fraying and then they start chewing up on the pulleys and then it can either drop out or just get stuck so what you want to do is key on engine off come over here to the switch and make sure goes up and down nice and smooth listen for any kind of crunching or grinding rightness area of the door that'll give you a good indication of overall health of the regulator inside of there now speaking of this window switch the master window switch on these and a lot of other for models it's all the same switch the contacts like the failing and get water down here from the rain and what you'll find is the windows don't work all the time you're pressed on does it work and then it may work some other times what you can do to test that and see if it's a switch itself if you're having that issue which again is common is either tap it hard and all starting starts working or if you press on really hard and starts working you know what's the switch that's another common failure again all these things are kind of nuisances but they do affect overall functionality of the vehicle same thing with the rear slider windows rear slider windows our cable driven sees big long cable systems behind the seat here and they have a lot of issues with the cables Tunip on those too and dirt and debris in that slider track causing issues you want check that out to make sure that's fully functional before it gets stuck in the open position now inside of here let me see if I can get you better lighting now the headliner inside of here what you want to look for is staining on the headliner that's the indication that the third brake Lizette you leaking which isn't a huge issue with the stain if you don't mind it but the problem is on the regular cabs and the crew cabs when this third brake light starts leaking it leaks water inside of there and there's like a channel on the sheet metal inside here and comes down and it packs down in here and it rots out the cab corners not to mention it's leaking water inside the vehicle and leaving stains in your headliner so those are all items you want to check on the inside of the vehicle alright let's go down below and check out the underside of the vehicle and last but not least let's take a look at the underside of the vehicle there's lots of moving parts under here lots of safety items and they're all constantly getting hammered by the weather the elements salt road debris all that stuff's you want to spend a great deal of time underneath here inspecting everything remember in this video we're just going over the high failure rate items but we're going to do is we're gonna go from the front to the rear and we're just gonna end it there so very first thing a lot of show is these quill springs up here they strut Springs they like to crack from corrosion and they'll break right here where it comes off the seat here they'll crack right here yeah a lot of times you'll see the whole one side that vehicle dropped or even both sides and of course that affects vehicle handling and safety now these power steering lines like I was trying to show you earlier they have a real problem with the crimps on here leaking fluid is seeping out and the bigger problem though is the steel lines they just get hammered by all that road debris this one's not so bad but a lot of times they look just like this yeah you see a rust those are they can lick the bottom of the ocean they've been in for a while and they're that pressurized flue going through there and they will just start spurting fluid out and you can lose power steering pretty rapidly once it shoots out of there and breaks fully so you want to inspect all this kind of stuff to make sure you're safe going down the road real common failure point on these now the front axle on here of course these end seals use axle seals this this moisture like this is very very common usually doesn't go any further than that but the pinion seal still start on boy stur like this one and then they'll just start dripping fluid like crazy see why I don't give a good visual of that because if you maintain that fluid level these front differentials will last forever it seems so don't let stuff like that go now the other thing you want to check up here because is such a high failure rate is these ìwe NSA's integrated wheel ends these are real common to fail because that solenoid up top and brakes on the line and just rust and corrosion in general so with the wheels chocked in the rear and the car and park engine off you want to jack up the front and just spin the wheels you see how the wheel and the CV axle is spinning at the same time that shows this system has the ability to lock these two together over here same exact thing you want to check functionality that wheel end it's a lot of times they get water around they get corroded and they just don't lock and then they they have a lot of issues with them on these vehicles a lot also what you want to do once that passes is go ahead and start the vehicle same thing friend jacked up wheels chopped in the rear in park idling you should go underneath here and spin the wheels once again and the wheel should spin not the CV shaft that shows the ability for them to disconnect going down the road that's a really quick visual check of the ìwe system moving on back here to the transmission of course these these are pretty darn reliable the biggest issue is that overdrive servo in these that the retaining ring length likes to break and cause problems with fourth gear usually a 3/4 L just neutral out but it could also cause a four-three harsh downshift also I have a whole video on how to repair that what to look for also this shaft seal here on this manual shaft seal you can see this one a little bit of moisture to it a lot of times it'll just be dripping like crazy no coat the whole side here and you want to maintain the fluid level because if you do these transmissions will last a long long time sort of tried and trued true for our 70 transmission for 75 Ian these ones so it's a really good transmission if you maintain the fluid level and filter now of course the catalytic converters fail on these all four trucks all at times so you want to make sure you go ahead and you check the PCM for any kind of codes in there if you're buying a used vehicle don't accept the p1000 that means they were in there and clear that you want to make sure there's no codes in there at all and these things actually pass because they are common failure and they are expensive speaking of codes you want to of course pull codes on all modules because things like this transfer case shift motor they have a lot of problems with the contact plate inside of here losing position so it doesn't know where it's at no just kind of throw its hands up and give up and that will set a code in the piece yeah but won't throw any lights in the cluster okay so you gotta realize that now the other thing I wanna show you guys is this right here this ingenious design right here it comes up this main harness comes out for the rear of the vehicle from the cab which is fine but then they had a splice connector right here inside of here and everything water mud everything it's trapped inside of here yeah and they can just be really packed inside of here with all kinds of mud and debris and then it starts to go to work on these connectors or rotting and so you have no starts taillight problems all kinds of problems because this all feeds everything in the rear of the vehicle real common area so what I'll do is go in here pull everything apart clean with compressed air and apply the XG 12 electrode agrees to kind of clean it up and make sure it's safe for the future and keep that moisture those connectors dry inside of there now the transfer case on here let's go to this real quick right here these fuel filters on here there's no problem anything right here but the fuel filters for longest time had this little blue clip on here and no one knew how to take it apart so they broke them and then the system never actually locks on to the fuel filter you can see on this model and certain other models depending on your your box configuration this attaches to a jumper and that goes to the fuel filter and these ones are much easier to get off so these ones your channel you don't break for us these ones on the shorter wheelbase vehicles no one knew how to give up parts these things break if that thing pops off while you're driving it's the exhaust you're gonna have a major fire all right so that's something to inspect real quick Alstom is visual now the other thing is the input shaft seal on the transfer case likes a leak and a leak transmission fluid into the transfer case how do you tell make sure that vehicle's nice and level you get up in here with their ratchet you take this out and it should just dribble out of here if it's pouring out like that quart 2 quarts whatever that's not okay that means that that input shaft seal is leaking this one's not too bad but a lot of times it will just fly out of there this is a fill plug not a drain plug that's the drain plug so this right here means the transmissions leaking into the transfer case not good all right let's go back here you see it's quality aftermarket exhaust system just rot it away of course pinion seals are leak shirin pinion seal leaks are Collins sure enough this one has that issue axle seal leaks in the rear back here are common also you just a quick visual like right here CS moisture right here this one has the start of a axle seal leak this one's got a little bit of moisture and crud but you'll see drips four and right here yeah that means you need to get in there and change the axle seals out this one's starting right here and finally let's talk about some corrosion related issues with these trucks this one I'm starting to see now that these trucks are 13 14 15 years old I'm starting to see the import side the frame just completely rotting out it'll start right behind this crossmember here backward gets thinner here it'll become paper thin and form these long jagged cracks in the frame on the import side especially behind the fuel tank here everything is packed in behind your muck you know salt slush all that stuff and it just goes to work on it now you'll see it on the passenger side import site also but generally it's really bad on the driver's side of a video on how bad these can really gets the problem with it is that once the inboard site is gone this frame was meant to be fully box it's not meant to be a sea channel which it essentially is at that point so the frame he comes you know a structurally unsound and the truck is basically unusable at that point so like this truck right here is an O for and the guide took care of it washed at all time so guess what no problems on both sides so it does come back down the maintenance to the other issue is the front calipers they're common enough to stick on these that I would say it's a common problem either the pads sticking in the bracket or the calipers themselves sticking so you want do a good spin of that after a long drive and getting them nice and hot back here this is another common issue has to do with corrosion but can happen at any time is the fuel pump driver module up here above the spare tire it's an aluminum housing and they bolted it up to a steel crossmember on there so salt and dirt and everything is packed behind there and galvanic corrosion ensues and then it just rots right through the backside of the module to the circuit board and you'll blow the fuse for the fuel pump so you might die out or have a no star condition at P 12 33 when they get really bad that connector right there will actually melt on these yeah the new one from Ford actually has standoffs on it so you can get it away from the frame and prevent that in the future like I said all these issues can be fixed with the latest and greatest Ford parts um one other issue back here it's more of a tip is this right here next to the license plate is a lock from Ford and it's to prevent thieves from getting in there with their rod and stealing your spare tire very common item to steal guess what with corrosion these will actually lock up the tumblers and they'll lock up so when you break down the side of the road and you go put your key in there turn it if you can't get your spare tire either buddy yeah so a lot of times the ears on these will completely break off that lock it into here like this one did so if you have one of these before you break down the side of the road go underneath there in the back side just pry those ears and take this thing out of there and throw it away find some other way to lock your spare tire out don't rely on this lock up here it's going to be a real fiasco on the side of the road one day one other issue is I know I may get hammered about it even though I don't consider it an actual common failure it's more of an engineering fault is the 5 4 3 valve spark plugs they're unique ok so the early ones have we're a 2 piece design here so when you went to go change spark plugs a regular routine you know spark plug change the hex here and the threads and even the porcelain sometimes have come out no problem but this tip right here be stuck down in the head yeah it's a real nightmare at first they were pulling heads and everything and then the Lyle tool came out to get in there and extract these out of there but that's on the early ones you know after a while all these had the SP 5 15s in them and these are the latest ones SP 546 is and these are a one piece design so that when you take them out you know 80 100,000 miles later they come right up no sweat but I did want to mention it so yeah that's all the common fault with this generation Ford f-150 as you can see a lot of is corrosion related and a lot of has to do with engineering faults so once you put the latest and greatest parts on there these trucks are good to go there are fricken workhorses and that's why I bought one that's all for now I'll see you guys next time

Channel: FordTechMakuloco

Views: 625,646

Rating: 4.8924599 out of 5

Keywords: FordTechMakuloco, ford, fix, problem, repair

Id: XilMYsWOTpo

Length: 37min 30sec (2250 seconds)

Published: Fri May 03 2019